Chapter XX: The English and Their Institutions 355 (10)
The excellence of the British police system is proverbial; in efficiency and honesty of administration it has no parallel in America. Bribery and corruption among policemen are unknown, as Americans sometimes learn to their grief--illustrated by the instance of a rich New Yorker who offered a gold coin to an officer who had held up his motor for speeding. The offender was fined, not only for speeding, but much more heavily for attempted bribery--as it was justly regarded by the court. From the hundreds of policemen of whom we made inquiries--often very stupid, no doubt, to the officer--we never had an answer with the slightest trace of ill nature or impatience. Frequently the officer gave us much assistance in a friendly way and information as to places of interest. The British policeman has no swagger or ostentation about him; he carries no weapon--not even the club so indispensible in the States--yet he will control the riotous crowds more effectively than his American brother; but we should remember that even a riotous English mob has more respect for law than one on our side. He appears to appreciate thoroughly the value of his position to him personally and his dignity as a conserver of law and order, which he represents rather than some ward politician or saloon-keeper.
And, speaking of saloons--public houses, they call them in Britain--the drink evil averages worse than in the United States. Three quarters of a billion dollars go directly every year for spirituous liquors and no statistics could show the indirect cost in pauperism, suffering and crime, to say nothing of the deleterious effect on the health of a large portion of the people. In America liquor in the country hotel is an exception, constantly becoming rarer; in England it is the universal rule. Every hotel is quite as much a saloon, in our vernacular, as a house of entertainment for travelers. Women with children in their arms frequent the low-grade drink houses and women as bar-maids serve the liquors. More than once I had to exercise great caution on account of reeling drunken men on the streets of the smaller towns; but we had only hearsay for it that in the slums of Liverpool and London one may find hundreds of women dead drunk. There was much indignation over an insinuation made in parliament against the character of the bar-maids, but it is hard to see how many of these women, surrounded by the influences forced upon them by their vocation, can lead a decent life for any length of time.
Surely the drink evil in Great Britain and Ireland is a serious one and deserves far more active measures than are being taken against it. That sentiment is slowly awakening is shown by the fight made for the "licensing bill" which proposed a step, though a distant one, towards repression of the traffic. That the almost world-wide movement against the liquor business will make headway in England is reasonably certain and those who have her welfare at heart will earnestly hope that its progress may be rapid.
But in this connection I wish to emphasize that my observations on the liquor question in Britain are broadly general; there are millions of people in the Kingdom to whom they do not apply, and there are whole sections which should be excepted had I space to particularize. North Wales, for instance, has a population that for sobriety and general freedom from the evils of drink will rival any section of similar population anywhere. The mining towns of Southern Wales, however, are quite the reverse in this particular.
While Wales is a loyal and patriotic part of the British Empire, there are many ways in which the people are quite distinct and peculiar as compared with native Englishmen. Perhaps the most notable point of difference is consistent opposition to the established church, which has little support in Wales and has been practically forced upon the Welsh people by the British government. Only recently a measure for disestablishment has been entertained in parliament and it is sure to come sooner or later.
For the people of Northern Wales we came to have the highest respect and even regard. They were universally kind and courteous and their solicitude for the stranger within their gates seemed to be more than a mere desire to get his money. There is no place in the Kingdom where one may find good accommodations cheaper, barring a half dozen notable resorts in the height of the season. Added to this, the beauty of the country and its romantic and historic interest make a combination of attractions that would long detain one whose time permitted.
The foregoing observations about the Welsh are applicable in a greater or less degree to many sections of England and to most of rural Scotland, save that in the latter country hotel expenses will average higher.
A word on hotels generally may not come amiss from one whose experience has dealt with several hundreds of them of all classes and degrees, from the country inn to the pretentious resort hotel. It was our practice to seek out the best in every case, since we hardly enjoyed hotel life even under the most favorable conditions; but it was largely saved from monotony by the traditions which have gathered about almost every ancient inn in the Kingdom. One would miss much if he did not visit the old inns such as the Feathers in Ludlow, the Lygon Arms in Broadway, the Great White Horse in Ipswich, the King's Head in Coventry--but I could fill pages with names alone; I would as soon think of missing a historic castle or a cathedral as some of the inns. It is this sentiment that has led me to give the rather extended individual mention accorded in some cases.
As a whole, the British hotels are comfortable and well conducted. Outside of London one will find the menus rather restricted and usually quite heavy and substantial from an American point of view. Special dishes are not easily obtained in the country inns and request for them is not at all enthusiastically received. Eggs and bacon--with the latter very nearly answering the specification of ham in America--with fish, usually sole or plaice, and tea or rather bad coffee, is the standard breakfast. Fruit cannot usually be had even in season without prearrangement the evening before, and then only at exorbitant prices. Strawberries, for instance--there are none finer than the English in season--may be selling for sixpence a quart, but you will pay half a crown extra for a lesser quantity served with your breakfast. An assortment of cold meats, usually displayed on the sideboard, forms the basis for luncheon and the very wise native will go to the sideboard and select his own portions. There will sometimes be a hot dish of meat; cabbage and potatoes are the standard vegetables, the latter cooked without seasoning and generally poor. A lettuce salad and cheese, with stewed fruit or a tart, as they style a pastry something similar to an American pie, will complete the meal--at least for one who does not care for liquid refreshments, which may be had in great variety. Dinner in the smaller inns is usually served on the table d'hote plan. A very poor soup, a bit of stale fish--inexcusable in a country surrounded by the sea; an entree, usually a highly seasoned hotch-potch, or chicken and bacon--often a vile combination--followed by some heavy, indigestible "sweet," made the standard evening meal. We finally rebelled against this and had many a lively tilt with the manageress in our efforts to get a plain meal of eggs, tea, bread and butter and perhaps a chop. In some of the resort hotels our demands caused positive consternation and in more than one case had to be taken up with the proprietor himself. The difficulty was chiefly due to the disarrangement of the regime; the table d'hote meal was ready, though often stale and cold, and one waiter by following the fixed routine could serve a dozen people, while our simple wants usually disarranged the whole program, both in kitchen and dining room. It was rare indeed that a mutton chop could be had in the hotel; some one must be sent to the meat shop for it, and any such departure from the fixed order of things jarred the nerves of the whole establishment. It is only fair to state, however, that at some of the fine inns I have especially mentioned there were notable exceptions to these generalizations.
The rooms in the country hotel do not average very comfortable; the furniture is scant; they are poorly lighted--if not with candles, a single dim electric bulb or gas light serves the purpose; feather beds, with the odors that these give out in a damp climate, were not uncommon, though flat rebellion against them would often bring out the fact that there were others in the house. Bathing facilities were usually poor, a dirty bathroom or two serving the entire house. Not in a single case did we find running water in the rooms. But with all its drawbacks, the British provincial hotel will probably average as good as may be found in any country, and in motoring one has the option of going on to the next town if conditions seem too bad to be endured. Rates--to tourists--in the better class hotels are not low; yet I would not call them exorbitant as a rule. Two shillings for breakfast, three for luncheon and four to six for dinner may be given as the average, while the charge for rooms can hardly be generalized. Five or six dollars per day per person should cover the hotel expense, including tips.
And, speaking of tips, these aggregate no inconsiderable item; a smaller individual amount will give satisfaction than in America, but the number of beneficiaries is so much greater that the total cost is more. Every servant who does anything for you or who ought to do anything, must have a fee--porter, boots, chambermaid, waiter, head waiter, stable man, garage attendant, the man who cleans your car or brings you oil or petrol; in fact, everyone in the hotel except the proprietor or manageress expects from sixpence to half a crown for the day, as the case may be, and it does not pay to withhold it. One subjected to such exactions cannot but view with great concern the increase of the practice of tipping in America; should it ever become so prevalent here at the much higher rate that the American servant requires, traveling would be prohibitive except for millionaires.
INDEX
A
Abbeville, 7-8, 133.
Abbotsford, 173-177.
Aberdeen, 188-190.
Achaius, King, 217.
Ailsa Craig, 239.
Alfred, King, 348-349.
Alloway, 231-236, 250.
Alsace, 59-60.
Amboise, 32, 33, 35-36.
Amiens, 129-133.
Andover, 299.
Angel Inn, Grantham, 149-150.
Angers, 27-28.
Austen, Jane, 308.
Autun, 52-53.
Avranches, 20-21.
Awe, Loch, 225.
Ayr, 230-231.
B
Baliol, John, 243-245.
Ballachulish, 217-221, 223.
Ballantrae, 240.
Ballater, 188.
Balmoral Castle, 187-188.
Barnes, William, 302-303.
Barnstaple, 348.
Barrhead, 230.
Bartholdi, Frederic, 60.
Basingstoke, 299.
Bassenthwaite Water, 246, 248-249.
Bath, 350-351.
Bayerischer-Hof, Fussen, 66-67.
Bayeux, 16-17.
Beaugency, 40-41.
Beethoven, Ludwig, 97.
Benderloch Station, 221, 223.
Bennane Head, 240.
Ben Nevis, 216, 217, 223.
Berck-sur-Mer, 6-7.
Berry Pomeroy Castle, 311-319.
Bettyhill, 204-205.
Beauly, 209.
Bideford, 347-348.
Bingen, 89-91.
Bishop Auckland, 153-154.
Blairgowrie, 185.
Blandford, 300.
Blois, 32, 36-40.
Bonar Bridge, 194, 208.
Bonn, 97.
Bonsecours, 13-14.
Bootle, 252, 257.
Boppard, 93.
Bornhofen, 93.
Boroughbridge, 147.
Boulogne, 4-6, 133, 134-135.
Bowness, 259.
Braemar, 182, 186-187.
Bridport, 308.
Broughton, 252, 257-258.
Burns, Robert 181, 230-237.
Burntisland, 182.
Byrness, 156.
Byron, Lord, 96, 188.
C
Caedmon, 162, 164, 168.
Caen, 15-16.
Caithness, 192-193.
Calder Abbey, 253-254.
Caledonian Canal, 210-212.
Camelford, 346-347.
Carlisle, 246.
Carlton Hotel, Frankfort, 86.
Casino, The, Boulogne, 135.
Castle Douglas, 241, 242.
Castle Hotel, Conway, 278, 280-281.
Catcleugh, 156.
Catherine de Medici, 34, 35-36, 38.
Catherine of Beraine, Lady, 274.
Cawdor Castle, 213.
Charles I., 149, 267-268, 270, 295-296.
Charles Edward, Prince, 152, 178-179, 212, 221-222.
Chateaubriant, 26.
Chaumont, 32.
Chenonceaux, 32-34.
Chester, 262-263.
Chinon, 32, 52.
Coblenz, 89, 94-96.
Cockermouth, 248-251.
Colmar, 60.
Cologne, 96-99, 125.
Constance, Lake, 62-64.
Continental Hotel, Munich, 77, 80-81.
Conway, 263-264, 278-297.
Cook, Capt., 160, 170-171.
Cook & Sons, Thos., 69-70, 210.
Corbridge, 147, 155.
Cosne, 46.
Coutances, 20.
Crinan Canal, 227.
Cromarty Firth, 194.
Cromwell, Oliver, 306.
Culloden Moor, 212, 213, 217, 222.
Culzean Castle, 237.
Cupar, 184.
D
Dalton, 259.
Darlington, 153.
Darmstadt, 84.
Darnick, 177-178.
Deganwy, 287.
Denbigh, 264-278.
Derwentwater, 247, 248.
Deutsches Haus, Friedrichshafen, 63-64.
Devorgilla, Countess, 243-245.
Diane of Poitiers, 33-34.
Dickens, Charles, 301.
Dijon, 48-53.
Dingwall, 194.
Dobson, H. J., 235-236, 282.
Donaueschingen, 61.
Doncaster, 147, 151.
Dorchester, 299, 300-307, 350.
Dornoch Firth, 194-195.
Drachenfels, 96.
Duarte, 225.
Dudley, Robert, 269-270, 277.
Dumfries, 241, 242, 245.
Dunderawe Castle, 228.
Dunolly, 224, 225.
Dunrobin Castle, 195, 197.
Dunure Castle, 237.
Dunstaffnage, 225.
E
Edinburgh, 178-182.
Edward I., 269, 277, 293.
Edward IV., 330, 332.
Edward VII., 186, 301.
Egremont Castle, 252-253.
Ehrenbreitstein, 95-96.
Ehrenfels, 91.
Elizabeth, Queen, 251, 269, 283.
Elreton, Henry de, 293.
Endicott, John, 302.
English Channel, 2, 4, 133, 135.
Escomb, 154.
Eyre-Todd, George, 211, 232.
Exeter, 308, 309.
F
Falkenburg Castle, 92.
Feochan, Loch, 225-226.
Folkestone, 3, 135.
Fort Augustus, 212, 216.
Fort William, 212, 216-218, 222.
Fowey, 321, 328-333.
Francis I., 35, 37.
Francis II., 33, 35, 44.
Frankfort, 84, 86-88.
Freiburg, 60-61, 69.
Friedrichshafen, 63-64.
Furness Abbey, 258.
Fussen, 66-68.
Fyne, Loch, 227-228.
G
Gairlochy, 222.
Gatehouse, 242.
George, I., 156.
George V., 343.
Gerardmer, 57.
Gibson, R. A., John, 289.
Gilphead, Loch, 227.
Girvan, 239.
Glasgow, 229-230.
Glastonbury, 350.
Glen Affrick, 209.
Glencoe, 221.
Glengarry, 212.
Glenluce, 241-242.
Goethe, 87, 103.
Golspie, 195-198.
Grantham, 149-151.
Granton, 182.
Grand Hotel de France et de Londres, Avranches, 20-21.
Granville, 20.
Gray, 53.
Great Glen, The, 193, 210-223.
Great Orme's Head, 287.
Great Torrington, 347.
Guisborough, 153.
Guise, 128.
Guise, Duke of, 38-39.
Gutenberg, Johann, 88-89.
H
Hardy, Thos., 303-305, 307.
Hatfield, 147-148.
Hawthorne, Nathaniel, 356.
Heidelberg, 84-85.
Helston, 334.
Hemans, Felicia, 272.
Henderson, T. F., 205.
Henley, W. E., 181.
Henry II., England, 12.
Henry III., France, 38-39.
Henry, VIII., England, 162, 260.
Holsworthy, 347.
Honfleur, 15.
Hotel de France, Nevers, 46-47.
Hotel de France et d'Angleterre, St. Quentin, 128-129.
Hotel de la Croix d'Or, Sedan, 127.
Hotel de Univers, St. Lo, 17, 19.
Hotel de Ville, Orleans, 43-44.
I
Inverary, 228.
Invercauld Arms, Braemar, 186.
Invergarry, 222.
Inverlochy, 212, 216-217.
Inverness, 193, 212-213.
Iona, 225.
Irvine, 230-231.
Isle of Athelney, 348.
Ivy Bridge, 319.
J
James II., England, 349.
James IV., Scotland, 242.
Jeanne d'Arc, 10, 12-13, 41-44.
Jedburgh, 147.
Jeffreys, Judge, 303, 306-307, 350.
John, King, 150.
John O'Groats, 147, 199-202, 298, 336.
Johnson, Dr. Samuel, 264, 272.
Jones, John Paul, 251.
K
Karlsruhe, 84-85.
Kendal, 259-261.
Kennedy Castle, 241.
Keswick, 246-248.
Kilchimien, 216.
Kilchurn, 225.
Kilmartin, 227.
Kilninver, 226.
King's Arms, Dorchester, 300-301.
Kingsley, Chas., 348.
Kintyre, 236.
Kirkcaldy, 182.
Kirkoswald, 237.
Klopp Castle, 90.
Knox, John, 179, 184.
L
Lacy, Henry de, 266, 268.
Lairg, 208.
Lake District, 246-261.
Lancaster, 262.
Land's End, 263, 298, 336-341.
Lansallos Church, 327.
Largo, 182-184.
Larne, 241.
LaSalle, 12.
Launceston, 346-347.
Leven, Loch, 219.
Lindau, 64.
Linnhe, Loch, 216, 219.
Linskill, Mary, 167-170.
Lion d'Or, Neufchatel, 9.
Liskeard, 328.
Lochinch, 241.
Lochnagar, 188.
Lochy, Loch, 216.
Loire River, 29, 40.
Lomond, Loch, 228-229.
London, 3, 352, 354.
Longwy, 125.
Looes, 322.
Lorelei, The, 92.
Lostwithiel, 328-329.
Loyal, Loch, 207-208.
Ludwigshaven, 62.
Luxemburg, 99, 101-103, 125.
Lyme Regis, 308-309.
M
Macbrayne Steamship Co., David, 212, 218.
MacWhirter, R. A., John, 65, 209.
McCaig's Folly, Oban, 224-225.
Manchester Ship Canal, 263.
Marlborough, 352-353.
Marxburg, 94.
Mary Stuart, 33, 35, 44, 179, 250-251.
Maxwell-Scott, Hon. Mrs., 176.
Maxwelton, 242.
Mayence, 88-89.
Melfort, Loch, 225, 227.
Melfort, Pass of, 227.
Melrose, 147, 173-174.
Melvich, 204.
Mezieres, 127.
Millais, Sir John, 215.
Millom, 257.
Monmouth, Duke of, 306, 307, 349.
Montgomery, James, 230.
Montmedy, 127.
Montreuil, 5-6, 134.
Mont St. Michel, 20-24.
Moran, Thos., 279-281, 337.
Moselle River, 94, 96, 99, 101.
Mosely, Alfred, 371.
Mouse Tower, The, 91-92.
Munich, 77-81.
Mytton, Gen., 267-268, 270, 278.
N
Ness, Loch, 214-216.
Neufchatel, 8-9.
Neustadt, 61.
Nevers, 45-47.
New Abbey, 242-245.
Newburgh, 184.
Newby Bridge, 259.
Newton Abbot, 309.
Newton, Sir Isaac, 151.
Newton-Stewart, 242.
O
Oban, 210, 214, 223-225.
Oberammergau, 61, 68-77.
Oberwesel, 93.
Oich, Loch, 216.
Orleans, 40-45.
Oswy, King, 161.
Oxford, 298.
P
Palace Hotel, Aberdeen, 188-190.
Peel Tower, Darnick, 177-179.
Penzance, 334-335, 341, 347.
Perth, 182, 184-185.
Peter the Hermit, 132.
Philipson, Major Robert, 260-261.
Pickering, 153.
Pius VII., Pope, 46.
Plas Mawr, 281-285.
Plymouth, 318-319, 321, 329.
Polperro, 320-327.
Pommard, 52.
Pont Audemer, 15.
Port Patrick, 237, 241.
Preston, 262.
Probus, 333.
Prun, 100.
Puddletown, 300.
Q
Quiller-Couch, Sir Arthur, 332.
R
Ravenglass, 254-257.
Rawnsley, Canon, 255.
Reading, 352, 354.
Remiremont, 55-57.
Rennes, 25-26.
Rheinfels, 94.
Rhine River, 59-60, 85, 89-96, 99-100.
Rheinstein Castle, 91.
Rhoscomyl, Owen, 296.
Rhuddlan, 276-278.
Richard I., 11-12.
Richard II., 294.
Richard III., 150.
Robin Hood, 160.
Rolandseck, 96-97.
Rouen, 8-15, 42.
Royal Automobile Club, 1, 3, 58, 68, 96, 147, 192, 210.
Royal Cambrian Academy, 281.
Rudruth, 334.
Ruskin, John, 131, 133.
Ryan, Loch, 240.
S
St. Asaph, 270, 273, 276-277.
St. Austell, 333.
St. Benedict's Abbey, 216.
St. Columba, 215-216.
St. Columb Major, 346.
St. Goar, 93-94.
St. Hilda's Abbey, Whitby, 161-164.
St. Ives, 341.
St. Lo, 17-20.
St. Malo, 20-24.
St. Mary's Church, Conway, 289.
St. Mary's Church, Whitby, 157, 159, 162, 164-165, 167.
St. Michael's Mount, 22, 334.
St. Michel, Mont, 20-24.
St. Peter's Church, Dorchester, 302-303.
St. Quentin, 128-129.
St. Wulfram's Church, Grantham, 149-150.
Salisbury, 299-300.
Salisbury, Sir Wm., 267-268.
Schonburg, 93.
Schongau, 68.
Scott, Sir Walter, 161, 162, 173-179, 185, 238, 253, 261, 296-297.
Sedan, 127-128.
Sedgemoor, 348-349.
Sennan, 341.
Shin, Loch, 208.
Ship Inn, Fowey, 332-333.
Skiddaw, 246.
Sonneck Castle, 92.
Southey, Robt., 247.
Staffa, 225.
Staines, 298, 299.
Stanley, Henry M., 273-274.
Stilton, 148.
Stockton, 153.
Stolzenfels Castle, 94.
Stranraer, 240-241.
Strathy, 204.
Stuttgart, 81, 83-84.
Sutherland, 191, 193.
Sutherland Arms, Golspie, 196-197.
Sweetheart Abbey, 242-245.
T
Tain, 194.
Tamnay-Chatillon, 47-48, 51.
Taunton, 348, 350.
Thorwaldsen, Albert Bertel, 89.
Thurso, 203.
Tongue, 203-207.
Tongue Inn, 206-207.
Totnes, 309-311, 318.
Tours, 30-32, 35.
Tow-Law, 154.
Tremeirchion, 272.
Treves, 96, 99, 101.
Trouville-sur-Mer, 15.
Truro, 334, 345-346.
Turnberry Castle, 237-239.
Tuttlingen, 61-62.
Tyne River, 155.
U
Ulm, 81-83.
Ulverston, 259.
Urquhart Castle, 215.
V
Vaile, P. A., 368.
Vesoul, 53.
Victoria, Queen, 186.
Vinci, da, Leonardo, 36.
W
Warrington, 262-263.
Wells, 350.
Wesley, John, 338.
Whitby, 151, 152-153, 157-172.
Whitchurch, 272.
Whitehaven, 251.
White, Rev. John, 302.
Wick, 198-199.
Wigan, 262.
Wilton-le-Wear, 147.
Windermere, 259, 261.
William I., England, 15, 17.
William I., Germany, 95.
William III., England, 310.
Windsor Castle, 354.
Woolsthorpe Manor, 151.
Wordsworth, Wm., 229, 249-250, 252-253, 257, 260, 290.
Y
York, 151-152.
Z
Zeppelin, Count, 64.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
INDEX TO MAP OF ENGLAND AND WALES
Green Lines Show Approximate Routes Covered in This Book; Light-Faced Red
and Black Lines, Routes Covered by Author's Previous Books, "British
Highways and Byways from a Motor Car" and "In Unfamiliar England"
A
Aberystwith 17 E
Alcester 18 M
Alnwick 3 M
Ambleside 7 J
Arundel 25 Q
Askrigg 8 L
Avebury 21 M
B
Bakewell 13 M
Bamborough 2 M
Banbury 19 O
Bangor 13 G
Barmouth 16 H
Barnard Castle 7 M
Barnsley 12 N
Barnstaple 23 G
Bath 22 K
Battle Abbey 24 T
Bawtry 12 P
Beaulieu 24 O
Beddgelert 14 G
Bedford 18 R
Belvoir Castle 15 P
Berkeley 20 L
Berwick 1 M
Bettws-y-Coed 14 H
Beverly 10 Q
Bexhill 25 T
Bideford 24 F
Billingshurst 24 R
Birtsmorton 18 L
Bishop's Castle 17 J
Bodiam 23 T
Bolton Abbey 10 L
Bolton Castle 8 L
Boston 14 R
Bottisford 14 Q
Bournemouth 24 M
Bowes 7 L
Bowness 8 J
Bradford-on-Avon 23 L
Brampton 5 K
Brecon 19 I
Bridgnorth 16 K
Bridlington 9 R
Brighton 24 S
Brington 17 P
Bristol 21 K
Brixham 27 H
Broadway 19 M
Brough 7 L
Broxborne 19 S
Buckingham 19 O
Buildwas 16 L
Builth 18 H
Burnham Thorpe 14 U
Bury St. Edmunds 18 U
Buxton 13 M
Bylands Abbey 8 N
C
Caerleon 20 K
Caerphilly 21 H
Caister Castle 15 X
Calder Abbey 7 I
Cambridge 18 S
Camelford 25 E
Canterbury 22 V
Cardiff 22 I
Cardigan 18 E
Carlisle 5 J
Carmarthen 19 F
Carnarvon 13 G
Cerne Abbas 24 K
Cerrig-y-Druidion 14 I
Chagford 25 G
Chalfont St. Giles 21 P
Chawton 23 P
Cheddar 23 K
Chelmsford 20 T
Cheltenham 19 M
Chepstow 21 I
Chester 13 I
Chesterfield 13 N
Chichester 24 Q
Chigwell 20 T
Chippenham 21 M
Chipping Ongar 20 T
Chirk 15 J
Chorley Wood 20 Q
Clovelly 24 F
Cockermouth 6 I
Colchester 19 T
Coniston 8 I
Conway 13 H
Corfe 26 M
Coventry 17 M
Cowbridge 22 H
Cowes 25 O
Coxwold 8 O
Cromer 14 W
Crowland 16 R
D
Darfield 11 O
Darlington 7 N
Dartmouth 27 H
Denbigh 13 I
Derby 14 M
Dereham 16 U
Devizes 22 M
Dinas Mawddwy 16 H
Dolgelly 15 G
Doncaster 11 P
Dorchester 25 L
Dover 23 W
Downe 22 S
Drayton 14 L
Dukeries 13 N
Dunster 23 H
Durham 6 M
E
Eastbourne 25 T
East Looe 26 F
Edgeware 20 P
Egremont 7 I
Ely 17 S
Epsom 22 R
Eversley 22 P
Evesham 18 M
Exeter 25 G
F
Farnham 23 Q
Fishguard 19 D
Folkestone 24 V
Fotheringhay 16 R
Fountains Abbey 9 M
Fowey 27 E
Freshwater 26 M
Furness Abbey 9 I
G
Gad's Hill 22 S
Glastonbury 23 K
Glossop 12 M
Gloucester 20 L
Grantham 15 Q
Grasmere 7 I
Greenstead Church 20 S
Guildford 22 R
Guisborough 7 O
H
Hampton Court 22 R
Harborough 16 Q
Harlech 15 G
Harrogate 10 M
Harrow 21 Q
Haselmere 23 Q
Hastings 24 U
Haverfordwest 20 D
Haverhill 19 T
Haworth 10 L
Hay 19 I
Helmsley 8 P
Hereford 19 K
Hexham 4 M
Holyhead 12 D
Honiton 24 H
Howard Castle 9 P
Hucknall 14 M
Huntingdon 14 Q
Hythe 24 V
I
Ilfracombe 22 G
Ilkley 10 M
Ipswich 18 V
J
Jarrow 5 N
Jordans 21 P
K
Kendal 8 K
Kenilworth 17 M
Keston 22 R
Keswick 6 J
Kettlewell 9 L
King's Lynn 15 T
Kirby Hall 17 Q
Knaresborough 10 O
Knutsford 13 L
L
Lacock 22 L
Land's End 28 A
Lamberhurst 23 S
Lancaster 9 K
Lanercost Priory 5 L
Launceston 26 E
Leamington 18 O
Ledbury 19 K
Leeds 10 N
Leicester 16 P
Lewes 24 R
Leyburn 8 M
Llangollen 15 J
Llandaff 22 H
Llandovery 19 G
Lincoln 13 Q
Lichfield 16 L
Liverpool 12 J
London 21 R
Lostwithiel 26 E
Ludlow 17 J
Lulworth 26 L
Lutterworth 17 P
Lymington 25 O
Lyme Regis 25 J
Lyndhurst 24 M
M
Maidstone 22 U
Malmsbury 21 K
Malvern 18 K
Manchester 12 L
Mansfield 13 O
Marazion 28 B
Margate 21 W
Marlborough 21 N
Marney 19 V
Midhurst 24 O
Middleham 9 L
Mildenhall 17 T
Monmouth 20 J
Monken Hadley 20 R
Montgomery 16 J
Moreton Hampstead 25 G
Much Wenlock 17 L
Mundesley 14 X
N
Neath 21 H
Nether Stowey 23 I
Netley 24 O
Newark 14 P
Newcastle 5 M
Newcastle-under-Lyme 14 K
Newlyn 28 A
Newmarket 17 U
Newport 21 V
Newport 20 O
Newstead Abbey 14 O
Newtown 17 I
Northampton 18 P
Nottingham 14 N
Norwich 16 W
O
Olney 19 Q
Oswestry 15 I
Oundle 17 R
Oxford 20 N
P
Penn's Chapel 4 R
Penrith 6 K
Penshurst 23 T
Penzance 28 B
Peterborough 16 R
Pevensey 24 S
Plymouth 27 F
Polperro 27 E
Pontefract 11 O
Prince Town 26 G
R
Raby Castle 7 M
Raglan 20 I
Ravenglass 7 I
Reading 22 O
Reculver 22 V
Retford 13 P
Rhuddlan 13 H
Richmond 8 M
Rievaulx Abbey 9 M
Ripon 9 M
Ripple 19 L
Rochester 22 T
Romsey 23 M
Ross 19 K
Rowton Moor 13 K
Ryde 25 P
Rye 24 U
S
Saint Asaph 13 H
St. Albans 20 R
St. David's 19 B
St. Ives 27 B
St. Ives 17 S
Salisbury 23 L
Sandringham Palace 15 U
Scarborough 8 R
Scrooby 12 O
Sedgemoor 23 J
Selborne 23 O
Settle 9 L
Seven Oaks 22 T
Sheffield 12 N
Sherborne 24 L
Shottermill 24 P
Shrewsbury 16 J
Skipton 10 L
Somersby 13 R
Southampton 24 M
Southwell 14 O
Stilton 17 R
Stockton 6 O
Stoke Poges 21 Q
Stokesay Manor 17 K
Stratford-on-Avon 18 N
Sulgrave 16 P
Swansea 20 G
T
Tadcaster 10 O
Tamworth 16 N
Taunton 23 J
Tavistock 26 F
Tewkesbury 19 M
Thetford 17 U
Tintagel 25 D
Tintern 20 J
Tong 16 L
Torquay 26 H
Totnes 26 H
Truro 27 C
Tunbridge Wells 23 T
U
Usk 20 I
Uttoxeter 15 M
Uxbridge 21 Q
V
Ventnor 26 P
W
Wakefield 11 N
Walsingham 15 V
Waltham 20 S
Wantage 21 N
Wareham 25 L
Warrington 11 K
Warwick 18 M
Wellington 24 I
Wells 23 J
Wells-next-the-Sea 14 V
Westerham 24 R
West Looe 27 E
Weston-Super-Mare 22 J
Whitby 7 P
Whittington 14 J
Wimborne 24 L
Winchelsea 24 T
Winchester 23 O
Windermere 8 J
Windsor 21 P
Wokingham 22 P
Woodstock 20 N
Worcester 18 L
Worthing 25 R
Wroxeter 16 K
Wymondham 17 V
Y
Yarmouth 16 X
Yarmouth 25 N
Yeovil 24 K
York 10 O
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Books by Thos. D. Murphy
-------
Three Wonderlands of the American West
(Second Revised Edition)
Splendidly illustrated with sixteen reproductions in colors from original paintings by Thos. Moran, N. A. and thirty-two duogravures from photographs, also three maps. 180 pages, tall 8vo. decorated cloth. Price (boxed) $3.00 net. Carriage 30 cents extra.
In this volume Mr. Murphy turns to our own country and both text and
pictures tell a story that may well engage the attention of any one
interested in the beauty and grandeur of natural scenery. The book
will come as a revelation to many who have had a vague notion that
there may possibly be something worth seeing in America--after one
has "done" Europe. The author himself admits of such skepticism
before he made the tour described in the book. He says, "I found
myself wondering if there could be such an enchanted land as Mr.
Moran portrays--such a land of weird mountains, crystal cataracts
and emerald rivers all glowing with a riot of coloring that seem
more like an iridescent dream than a sober reality."
A tour through the three wonderlands gives the answer--neither pen
nor picture has ever told half the story. The sixteen illustrations
from original paintings by Thomas Moran come nearer, perhaps, than
anything excepting a personal visit in presenting to the eyes the
true grandeur of the wonderlands described; and these are
supplemented by thirty-two splendid photographs, reproduced in
duogravure and printed in a rich shade of brown. These features make
the book one of the most notable ever coming from the American
press, and it will serve the purpose of a guide to intending
visitors, as well as a beautiful and appropriate souvenir for those
who have visited one or all of the wonderlands so graphically
portrayed.
British Highways and Byways From a
Motor Car
(Third Edition)
With sixteen illustrations in color from original paintings by noted artists, and thirty-two duogravures from English photographs, also descriptive maps of England and Scotland. 320 pages 8vo, decorated cloth, gilt top. Price (boxed) $3.00.
An interesting record of a summer motor tour in Great Britain by an
American who took his car with him and drove over some thousands of
miles of British roads. The tour includes the cities, towns and
villages, the solitary ruins, the literary shrines, every cathedral
in the Island and many of the quaintest and most fascinating
out-of-the-way places not on the usual route of travel. A book of
value to anyone contemplating a tour of Britain or interested in the
country and its people.
In Unfamiliar England With a Motor Car
(Second Edition)
A new book on England, with incursions into Ireland and Scotland. Splendidly illustrated with sixteen reproductions in color from original paintings by noted artists, including Moran, Leader, Bowman, Elias, Sherrin and others, and forty-eight duogravures from English photographs, illustrating many of the quaint places visited by the author. Also indexed map of England and Wales and map showing routes in Ireland and Scotland.
A chronicle of the extensive wanderings by motor car of an American
in rural England and a record of his discoveries in the
out-of-the-way corners of the Island; also of delightful incursions
into Scotland and Ireland. It is a story redolent with the summer
beauty of the loveliest countryside in the world, and is replete
with the tales of lonely ruins, quaint old churches, historic manor
houses and palaces; it takes one through the leafy byways, into the
retired country villages, and to many unfrequented nooks on the
seashore. Particularly has the writer sought out the historic
shrines in England of especial interest to Americans themselves, and
his book is quite a revelation in this respect. The book has much of
interest seldom noted in the literature of travel and will please
alike the actual traveler or the reader who does his traveling in an
easy chair by his own fireside.
Of Mr. Murphy's motor travel books dealing with Great Britain, the Royal Automobile Club Journal speaks the following commendatory words:
England Through American Eyes
A member of the Automobile Club of America, who is also an
Individual Associate of the Royal Automobile Club, Mr. Thomas D.
Murphy, has for several years past spent two or three months in
touring in his car throughout the United Kingdom, and the result has
been the publication in America of two books, one entitled, 'British
Highways and Byways from a Motor Car,' and the other, 'In Unfamiliar
England.'
"In the former Mr. Murphy deals, in a most readable and attractive
style, with many of the better known places of interest in our
country; but in his book entitled 'In Unfamiliar England,' the
author describes many out-of-the-way places which are totally
unknown to the average English motorist, and even to people who
pride themselves upon a knowledge of their own country. A short time
ago the Touring Department received an inquiry from a member of the
Club concerning an old building in the Eastern Counties; wished to
know the exact position of the place, also whether it was open to
the public. A diligent search was made through all the usual books
of reference, and no trace of it could be discovered. As a last
resource Mr. Murphy's book was consulted, and not only was the exact
information required obtained, but in addition an excellent
illustration of the building was found. It seems curious that the
Touring Department should have to consult a book written by an
American in order to obtain information about an interesting spot in
this country.
"The writing of a motoring guide book is a very difficult matter,
and the majority are either crammed with information and very
unreadable, or else they are written in a very personal manner which
becomes rather irritating to the person who wishes to obtain
information from them. It is an exceedingly difficult matter to
combine road information, historical facts, and interesting legends,
in such a manner that the dry sections are not so numerous as to
make the book wearisome and the lighter sections not so drawn out as
to make the reading matter trivial. We should imagine that it is
much easier to write an ordinary novel than a good guide-book of the
readable description. Mr. Murphy is one of the few people who can
manage this difficult undertaking successfully."
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On Old-World HighwaysChapter XX: The English and Their Institutions 355 (10)
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