Chapter V: Part 5

SUBJECT-MATTER

The middle of the bottom of the bib should be determined, and pinned to the middle of the upper edge of the belt, to which the skirt has already been attached. The belt should be fastened to the wrong side of the bib. The gathering string of the bib should be drawn up, leaving 2 inches of fulness on each side of the middle. The bib should be pinned, basted, and sewn to the belt. The remaining long edges of the belt should be turned in one quarter of an inch, and the ends one inch. The edges of the other belt piece should be turned in in the same way, and should be pinned over the belt to which the skirt and the bib have been attached (with all the edges turned in), and basted carefully, to keep the edges even. The skirt and the bib should be hemmed to this upper belt, and all the remaining edges should be overhanded.

PRELIMINARY PLAN

The bib and the straps of the apron should be completed before the pupils report for this lesson.

METHOD OF WORK

The teacher should guide the pupils carefully in the various steps necessary in fastening the bib to the belt and in completing the belt. If the hemming and overhanding is not completed during the class hour, they may be assigned as home work.

LESSON XVII: METHODS OF FASTENING GARMENTS

_Sewing buttons on the aprons, corset-cover, or other garment._

SUBJECT-MATTER

This lesson should teach neatness in dress, through a consideration of the best methods of fastening garments. The position of the button is measured by drawing the right end of the band one inch over the left end. The place for the button should be marked with a pin on the left end of the band. A double thread is fastened on the right side of the band, drawn through one hole of the button, and back through the other, and then taken through the band close to the first stitch. A pin should be inserted on top of the button under the first stitch, left there until the button is firmly fastened in place, and then removed. Before the thread is fastened, it should be wrapped two or three times around the threads holding the button, between the button and the cloth, then fastened neatly on the wrong side with a few small stitches one on top of another.

PRELIMINARY PLAN

Each pupil should come to the class with her apron as nearly completed as possible, and with three buttons to sew on it, for fastening the belt and straps.

METHOD OF WORK

The teacher should discuss the best methods of fastening garments and should demonstrate the method of sewing on buttons. The pupils should sew one button on the left end of the apron band in the middle of the width about 1 inch from the end, and another button 4 inches from each end of the band, to hold the shoulder straps.

LESSON XVIII: METHODS OF FASTENING GARMENTS--Continued

_Button-holes on practice piece and on apron._

SUBJECT-MATTER

Directions for making the button-hole.--Measure carefully the position for the button-hole, lengthwise of the band, so that the end will come one quarter of an inch from the edge of the garment. Mark the length of the button-hole on the material by putting in two lines of running-stitches at the ends. To cut the button-hole, insert the point of the scissors at the point marked by the running-stitches nearest the edge of the garment, and cut carefully along the thread of the material to the row of stitches marking the length at the other end.

To make the button-hole, use a thread of sufficient length to do both the overcasting and the button-holing. Beginning at the lower right corner, overcast the raw edges with stitches one sixteenth of an inch deep. Do not overcast around the ends of the hole. As soon as the overcasting is done, proceed with the button-holing without breaking the thread. Hold the button-hole horizontally over the first finger of the left hand and work from right to left. Insert the point of the needle through the button-hole (at the back end), bringing the point through, toward you, four or five threads below the edge of the button-hole. Bring the doubled thread from the eye of the needle from right to left under and around the point of the needle, draw the needle through, and pull the thread firmly, so that the purl is on the edge. At the end of the button-hole, near the end of the band, make a fan, by placing from five to seven stitches. The other end of the button-hole should be finished with a bar made by taking three stitches across the end of the button-hole, then button-hole over the bar, taking in the cloth underneath and pulling the purl toward the slit. The thread should be fastened carefully on the under side of the button-hole.

PRELIMINARY PLAN

For this lesson it is desirable to have small pieces of cotton on hand, to use as practice pieces for the button-holes.

METHOD OF WORK

The teacher should demonstrate the making of a button-hole, illustrating each step of the process on a large piece of canvas. The pupils should sew two small strips of cotton together and cut a button-hole one quarter of an inch from the edge, and lengthwise of the material, to work for practice. When the button-hole has been sufficiently perfected on the practice piece, the pupils should make three in the apron--one in the right end of the band and one in the end of each shoulder strap.

LESSON XIX: A PADDED HOLDER FOR HANDLING HOT DISHES--BINDING

SUBJECT-MATTER

A holder 6 inches square will be satisfactory for handling hot dishes. It can be made of quilted padding bound with tape, or of two thicknesses of outing flannel covered with percale or denim and bound with tape or braid. If made of the outing flannel and covered, it should be quilted, by stitching from the middle of one side to the middle of the opposite side in both directions, in order to hold the outing flannel and the outside covering together. The tape that is to be used for the binding should be folded through the middle lengthwise; then, a beginning being made at one corner of the padding, the edge should be basted, half on one side and half on the other. Right-angled corners should be formed. When basted all around, the tape should be sewn on each side with a hemming-stitch.

If the holder is to be suspended from the apron band, a tape of from 27 inches to 36 inches in length should be attached to one corner. The raw edge at one end of the tape should be turned in. The end should be so placed that it overlaps the corner of the holder about half an inch and it should be basted to the holder. The tape should then be secured firmly to the holder, hemmed down on one edge, across the bottom, and up the other edge. The other end of the tape should be finished with a 2-inch loop. The raw edge should be folded over, the tape turned 2 inches down for the loop, and basted in place. This should be hemmed across the end. One quarter of an inch up from the end, the double thickness of tape should be back-stitched together, and the edges of the tape should be overhanded from there to the hemmed end.

PRELIMINARY PLAN

Each pupil should provide sufficient denim, percale, huckaback, or other washable material to cover the two sides of a holder 7 inches square, and enough outing or canton flannel for a double lining. About 1-1/2 yards of straight tape one-half inch wide will be needed for the binding and for suspending the holder from the apron.

METHOD OF WORK

The pupils should first carefully measure and turn the material for the covering of the holder and then prepare the lining, basting it all together. They should then put in the running-stitch and finish with the binding. If it is not possible to complete the holder in one period, a second lesson period should be provided, or arrangements may be made to have supervised work done outside of the lesson hours.

LESSON XX: A CAP TO WEAR WITH THE COOKING APRON

SUBJECT-MATTER

The simplest cap to make will be the circular one. A pattern should be made by drawing with a pencil and string on a piece of wrapping-paper a circle 21 inches in diameter. The material for the cap should be cut carefully around the circle and finished with a narrow hem. A tape to hold the draw-string should be placed 1-1/4 inches inside the edge of the hem. A small piece of cardboard cut about one-half inch wide should be used for measuring the position of the tape. Bias strips three quarters of an inch wide should be prepared for the tape, or a commercial tape three eighths of an inch wide may be purchased. The outer edge of the tape should be basted first and the edges joined; then the inner edges should be basted, the edge being kept smooth. Both edges should be neatly sewn with the hemming-stitch by hand or on the machine. An elastic should be inserted in the band, carefully fitted to the head, and the ends fastened neatly.

PRELIMINARY PLAN

This lesson will give a good opportunity to make a cap that will answer for a dust cap or serve as a part of the cooking uniform. If such a cap does not seem desirable and the former lesson has not been completed, the cap may be omitted and the work on the holder continued.

METHOD OF WORK

The pupils should first make the pattern for the cap and then cut out their material. The hem should be basted and stitched with the hemming-stitch. The bias strip should be basted on and sewn with a running-stitch. It will probably not be possible for the pupils to complete the cap in one class period; but, if the material has been cut out and the work started, they may be able to complete it at some other time. The stitches are not new, and the work will serve as an excellent test of the skill they have acquired in the course.

HOUSEHOLD SCIENCE EQUIPMENT

The introduction of Household Science into rural schools has been hindered by the prevalent impression that the subject requires equipment similar to that in the Household Science centres of towns and cities, where provision is made for the instruction of twenty-four pupils at one time and for from ten to fifteen different classes each week. Owing to the expense and the lack of accommodation, it is not possible to install such equipment in rural schools. For this and other reasons it has been concluded that the subject is beyond the possibilities of the rural school. That this is not the case is shown by the fact that many rural schools in the United States, and some in Saskatchewan, as well as a number in our own Province, are teaching the subject successfully, with equipment specially designed to meet existing conditions.

The accommodations and equipment required may be classified as follows:

1. Working tables
2. Cupboards and cabinets for storing the utensils
3. Stoves
4. Cooking and serving utensils

1. The provision for working tables is conditioned by the space available, and every effort must be made to economize this space. The equipment may be placed in the basement or in a small ante-room. In one school in the Province very successful work is being done in a large corridor. When a new school-house is being erected, provision should be made by building a small work-room off the class-room. The possibilities of a small, portable building, in close proximity to the school, should not be overlooked.

Where the school is provided with a large table, this may be made of service. When used as a working table it should be covered with a sheet of white oil-cloth. When used as a dining-table a white table-cloth may be substituted for the oil-cloth. If the school does not possess a table, two or three boards may be placed on trestles, if the space at the front or the back of the room permits, and these may be stored away when not required. A table with folding legs, such as is shown in Figures 22 and 23, may also be used. The top of the cabinet containing the utensils or an ordinary kitchen table closed in as a cupboard underneath, may be made to serve. Long boards, about eighteen inches wide, placed across the tops of six or eight desks, provide good accommodation. These should be blocked up level and should be provided with cleats at each end, in order to prevent movement. When not in use they may stand flat against the wall and occupy very little space. Separate boards, resting on a desk at each end, may also be placed across the aisles. Each of these will provide working space for one pupil. Tables which drop down flat when not in use may be fixed to the walls of the school-room. As schools vary in many respects, it is not possible to outline a plan which will suit all; but that plan should be chosen which will best meet the requirements of the particular school.

2. The cupboards and cabinets to contain the utensils may take various forms. A kitchen cabinet costing from twenty-five to thirty-five dollars may be obtained from a furniture store, or one may be made by a local carpenter. A large packing-case painted brown outside and white inside (for cleanliness) is satisfactorily used in some schools. If covered with oil-cloth, the top of this may be used as an additional table. A few shelves placed across a corner of the room and covered with a door or curtain may be used, or it may be possible to devote one shelf of the school cupboard to the storing of the utensils. It is desirable to have a combination cupboard and table, which will contain most of the equipment, including the stove. Figure 24 is a working drawing of such a cabinet, which may be made by a local carpenter or by the older boys of the school.

The directions for making this cabinet are as follows:

Obtain two boxes and cut or re-make them so that each is 30 inches high when standing on end, 12-1/4 inches across the front inside, and 18 inches from front to back. These will form the two end Sections, A and B. Inside the sides of these boxes nail 1 inch × 7/8 inch strips, to form the slides for the drawer. The slides come within 7/8 of an inch of the front edge. Rails may be nailed across the front. Guide pieces should be nailed to the slides, in order to keep the drawers straight. Divide Section A for one drawer and cupboard. The drawers may be made out of raisin boxes cut down to the required size. To the front of each drawer, nail a piece of beaver board or pine a little larger than the drawer front. Use any handles that may be conveniently obtained. Cut two pieces 4' 9-1/2" × 1-1/2" × 7/8". Space the Sections as shown, and nail these pieces firmly to the fronts of the larger boxes, _A_ and _B_, top and bottom. Four end pieces 18" × 1-1/2" will be required. Fill in Section _C_, in this case, 2' 7-1/2", with the pieces from the box lids or with ordinary flooring. Make a door for the cupboard from similar material. The top is best made from good, clear, white pine. Screw battens across, and screw the whole firmly to the box top from the inside. If more table space is required, make a similar bench top, which can rest on top of the cabinet when not in use. When required, it may be placed over the desks. Steel or glass shoes or wooden skids or battens should be fixed under the cabinet, so that it can be pulled away from the stove and replaced easily. The dimensions given are for a two-flame-burner oil-stove which is 30 inches high, 31 inches across the front, and 16 inches from front to back. The middle Section, _C_, and the total height of the cabinet may be enlarged or reduced to fit other sizes of stoves.

The material required for, and the approximate cost of, such a cabinet, labour not included, are as follows:

2 boxes @ 25 $0.50
5 raisin boxes @ 5 .25
5 handles at 45c per doz. .20
1 cupboard latch .15
or 1 turn button .02
About 9 sq. ft. flooring .25
About 8 sq. ft. pine for top .50
Pieces for battens, etc. .25
Steel shoes .10

Figure 27 shows another type of equipment and the space it occupies in the class-room when not in use. The cupboard and the back of the cabinet contain the equipment necessary for teaching twelve pupils at one time and also for serving one hot dish at the noon lunch to twenty-four pupils. One drawer contains linen, etc., and the other, knives, forks, and spoons. The dimensions of the cupboard and the cabinet are shown in Figures 28 and 29, and the construction of each is such that it can be made easily by any carpenter.

Figure 30 shows the cupboard and drawers open and the method of storing the equipment. The shelves may be covered with white oil-cloth or brown paper, in order to obviate the necessity for frequent scrubbing. The cupboard may be fixed to the wall with mirror plates or small iron brackets, or it may be screwed through the back.

Figure 31 shows the back of the cabinet, with the three-flame-burner stove-oven, the one-flame-burner stove, and other utensils in place. The folding table, previously described, rests on the top of the cabinet. Figure 32 shows the back of the cabinet with the stove and oven removed. The method of storing utensils and the construction of the cabinet are clearly shown.

Figure 33 shows the three-flame-burner oil-stove with the shelf underneath containing three kettles and the one-flame-burner oil-stove.

Another type of equipment is shown in Figure 34. Each end of the top of this cabinet drops down when the cupboard doors are closed, space being thus economized. The top of the table may be covered with oil-cloth or zinc carefully tacked down on the edges.

The directions for making this cabinet are as follows:

MATERIALS REQUIRED

Lumber:

7 pieces 3/4" × 4" × 14' yellow pine ceiling
6 pieces 1" × 4" × 12' yellow pine flooring
1 piece 1" × 12" × 12' }
1 piece 1" × 8" × 12' } No. 1 common white pine
1 piece 1/2" × 6" × 14' }
4 white pine laths

Hardware:

7 pairs 1-1/2" × 3" butt hinges
3 cupboard catches
1 piece zinc (27" × 39")
2 pieces zinc (21" × 27")
1 drawer pull
1 lb. 8d finishing nails
1 lb. 6d finishing nails
1/4 lb. box 1" brads
1/4 lb. box 1-1/4" brads
1 box tacks
2 ft. stopper chain

STOCK BILL

+--------------------+---------+-----------------------+---------------+ |Lumber |Cut into |Finished Dimensions |Use | | | the | | | | |following| | | | | pieces: | | | +--------------------+---------+-----------------------+---------------+ | 1" × 8" × 12' | 2 |13-16" × 2" × 32-1/2" |Top side rails | | | 2 |13-16" × 2" × 18-1/2" |Top end rail | | | 4 |13-16" × 2" × 29-3/4" |Frame posts | | | 1 |13-16" × 2" × 30-7/8" |Bottom side | | | | |rail | | | 2 |13-16" × 2" × 18-1/2" |Bottom end | | | | |rails | | | 1 |13-16" × 5" × 14-3/8" |Drop door | +------------- -----+---------+-----------------------+---------------+ |2 pieces, 1" × 4" × | | |Flooring | |12' flooring | 7 |3/4" × 3-1/4" × 32-1/2"|(bottom) | +--------------------+---------+-----------------------+---------------+ |5 pieces, 1" × 4" × | | |Ceiling (ends | |14' yellow pine | | |and side) | |ceiling | 24 |1/4" × 3-1/4" × 31-1/4"| | +--------------------+---------+-----------------------+---------------+ |1" × 12" × 12' | 3 |13-16" × 10-1/4" × | | | | | 32-1/2" |Shelf | | | 1 |13-16" × 8" × 32-1/2" |Shelf | | | 3 |13-16" × 1-3/4" × | | | | | 31-1/4 |Casing | | | 2 |13-16" × 1-3/4" × | | | | | 14-3/8" |Casing | | | 1 |13-16" × 5" × 14-3/8" |Drawer front | +--------------------+---------+-----------------------+---------------+ |2 pieces, 1" × 4" × | | |Top | |12' flooring | 8 |3/4" × 3-1/4" × 36" | | +--------------------+---------+-----------------------+---------------+ |2 pieces, 1" × 4" × | | |Doors | |14' yellow pine | | | | |ceiling | 10 |3/4" × 3-1/4" × 22-7/8"| | +--------------------+---------+-----------------------+---------------+ |2 pieces, 1" × 4" × | | |Swing tops | |12' flooring | 12 |3/4" × 3-1/4" × 24" | | +--------------------+---------+-----------------------+---------------+ |1/2" × 6" × 12' | 2 |7-16" × 5" × 19-5/8" |Drawer slides | | | 1 |7-16" × 5" × 13-1/2" |Drawer back | | | 4 |7-16" × 4-3/4" × | | | | | 13-1/2" |Drawer bottom | +--------------------+---------+-----------------------+---------------+ |1/2" × 6" × 12' | 1 |7-16" × 4-1/2" × | | | | | 13-1/2" |Partitions | | | 3 |7-16" × 4-1/2" × 10" |Partitions | +--------------------+---------+-----------------------+---------------+

TOOLS

Rule
Lead-pencil
Saw
Hammer
Steel square
Plane
1/2" Chisel and
Screw-driver

DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING

I Cutting and Squaring Stock--

Cut the stock only as needed, in the following order, and square up according to the directions previously given.

1. Frame; rip the 1" × 8" × 12' piece for the frame material
2. Bottom
3. Ends and sides
4. Shelves
5. Top
6. Casing
7. Doors
8. Swing tops
9. Miscellaneous pieces

II Assembling--

Frame:

1. Check up the dimensions of the pieces squared up for the frame.

2. Lay out and cut the lap joints in the top side rails and frame posts, as shown in the drawing.

3. Nail the frame together.

4. Test the corners of the frame with a steel try-square and brace it by nailing, temporarily, several strips diagonally across the corners.

Bottom:

1. Cut seven pieces of flooring 32-1/2" long for the bottom and plane off the groove of one piece.

2. Turn the frame upside down and nail this piece with the smooth edge projecting 7/8" over the front side of the frame. Nail the rest of the flooring so that each piece matches tightly.

Ends:

1. For the back, cut eleven pieces of ceiling 31-1/4" long.

2. Plane off the groove edge of one piece of ceiling and nail it on the back of the frame even with the end. 3. Nail the rest of the ceiling on the back. Be sure that each joint matches tightly.

Shelves:

1. Make four strips (3/4" × 3/4" × 16-1/2") and nail two of them inside, across each end, 15" and 24" from the bottom. These strips hold the shelves.

2. From a 1" × 12" piece cut two pieces 32-1/2" long; fit and nail them in for the upper shelf.

3. Make the bottom shelf of two pieces, one 10-1/4" wide and the other 8" wide. When these boards are nailed in place, the shelf is narrow enough to allow the doors, with pockets on, to close.

4. Make two strips; one 13-16" × 1" × 16-1/2" and the other 13-16" × 1-3/4" × 20-1/2", and nail them to the top shelf for drawer guides.

Top:

1. Cut eight pieces of flooring 36" long for the top.

2. Plane off the groove of one piece and nail it on the top of the frame, so that the smooth edge and the ends project 1" over the front side and ends of the cabinet.

3. Nail the rest of the flooring on for the top, being sure that each joint matches tightly. The last piece must also project 1" over the back side.

Casing:

1. Nail the casing, which is 1-3/4" wide, on the front of the cabinet.

Doors:

1. Make each door 3/4" × 14-3/8" × 22-7/8" from five pieces of ceiling 22-7/8" long, held together by cleats at the top and bottom.

2. Fit each door carefully, then hang them with butt hinges. Fasten a cupboard catch on each door.

Drop Door:

1. Make the drop door 13-16" × 14-3/8" and hinge it with a pair of butt hinges. Put on the stopper chain and catch. Swing Tops:

The swing tops are each made from six pieces of flooring 24" long cleated together.

1. Plane off the groove edge of one piece and match them all together.

2. Make the cleats 3/4" × 2" × 15" and nail the top to them. (See the drawing for the position of the cleats.)

3. Rip off the tongue edge and plane it so that the top is exactly 18" wide.

4. Turn the cabinet upside down on the floor and fit the swing tops. Hang them with a pair of butt hinges opposite the ends of the cleats.

5. Make a T-brace with a nailed cross lap joint from two pieces, one being 13-16" × 2" × 14", the other 13-16" × 2" × 16-1/2". The long edge of the T and the leg must be bevelled 13-16" on one side. Fit and hang a T-brace with a pair of butt hinges on each side of the swing tops.

6. Make two brace cleats and fasten them to the ends of the cabinet, so that the swing tops are held level and even with the top of the cabinet.

Putting Zinc on the Top:

1. Unscrew the swing tops from the cabinet to put the zinc on.

2. Place the piece of zinc, 27" × 39", on top, extending 1-1/2" over the edges all around.

3. Hold the zinc firmly in place and make a square bend along the front edge with a hammer or mallet, bending the edge of the zinc up under the top.

4. Punch a straight row of holes 1" apart through the zinc and tack it on.

5. Bend the back edge, punch and tack in the same manner as the front edge, but be sure the zinc fits snugly on the top.

6. Bend the ends of the zinc the same as before, but be very careful to fold the corners neatly.

7. Put the zinc on the swing tops in the same manner.

8. Fasten the swing tops again to the top of the cabinet.

Drawer:

The drawer front, 13-16" × 5" × 14-3/8", with lap 3/8" × 1/2" cut out on the ends.

1. Nail the sides, 1/2" × 5" × 19-5/8", to the lap of the front and to the ends of the back.

2. Nail the bottom in between the sides 1/8" from the lower edge. This allows the drawer to slide on the edges of the sides.

3. Put the partitions in the drawer as called for by this plan.

The racks for covers and pie tins shown in the drawings are made from two pieces, 13-16" × 2" × 4", one piece 13-16" × 2" × 10-1/2" for the bottom, and two pieces of lath 12" long for the sides. These racks may be placed on the doors as shown, or may be changed to suit the equipment.

III Finishing--

1. Set all the nails and putty the holes.

2. Sandpaper the cabinet carefully.

3. Paint or stain and wax the outside of the cabinet, to harmonize with the surroundings where it is to be used.

4. Paint the inside with two coats of white enamel.

Before putting on the enamel, apply a coat of ordinary white-lead paint and allow it to dry thoroughly. If desired, the outside of the cabinet may be finished in white enamel, though this is somewhat more expensive than the paint or stain recommended above.

All the Household Science Cabinets shown have a two-fold purpose. In the first place, they furnish storage space for the utensils and working space for the pupils. In the second place, they offer a most interesting manual training project for a boys' club. The members can make any one of them, thus correlating their practical woodwork and the domestic science of the girls and, in this way, exhibiting the co-operative spirit of the home and the school.

3. In some cases it may be possible to use the school stove for cooking purposes. Some schools use natural gas for heating and, where this is the case, provision for cooking may readily be made. Other schools situated on a hydro-electric line, may, as has been done in one case, use electricity as a source of heat. At present, however, the majority of schools may find it best to use one of the many oil-stoves now on the market. One-, two-, or three-flame-burner stoves may be obtained for general use. The two-, or three-flame-burner stoves are recommended, as they are less likely to be overturned. The one-flame-burner stove, however, is often useful as an additional provision. A good grade of oil should be used, and the stove should be kept scrupulously clean, constant attention being paid to the condition of the wick. Any oil spilt on the stove when it is being filled should be carefully wiped off before lighting. If attention is paid to these details, the stove will burn without any perceptible odour.

4. The number of the utensils and the amount of equipment depend upon the community and the number of pupils to be considered. By careful planning few utensils are needed. They should be as good as the people of the neighbourhood can afford and, in general, should be of the same character as those used in the homes of the district. All the table-cloths, towels, dish-cloths, etc., required should be hemmed by the pupils. Articles for storing supplies may be bought or donated. Glass canisters with close lids are best, but as substitutes, fruit jars, jelly glasses, or tin cans will serve the purpose. It is an easy matter to secure an empty lard-bucket or a syrup-can for flour or meal, empty coffee-cans for sugar or starch, etc., and baking-powder or cocoa-tins for spices. Each should be plainly labelled.

Several typical lists of equipment in Household Science are given here. These may be modified to suit particular circumstances. Considerable expense may be saved if the pupils bring their own individual equipment--soup-bowl, cup and saucer, plate, spoon, knife, fork, and paper napkins. This plan is not advised unless it is absolutely necessary, but, if followed, an effort should be made to have the articles as uniform as possible.

The following equipment is that contained in the cabinet illustrated on page 152 and is sufficient for giving organized instruction to six pupils. If a noon lunch is provided, additional individual equipment will be required.

EQUIPMENT FOR RURAL SCHOOL HOUSEHOLD SCIENCE CABINET--NO. 1

1 Perfection blue-flame stove (two-flame) $15.00
1 Two-burner oven 4.50
1 Coal-oil can .50
1 Dish-pan 1.15
1 Tea-kettle 1.50
1 Large sauce-pan and cover .75
2 Medium sauce-pans and covers, 30c each .60
2 Small sauce-pans and covers, 25c each .50
2 Frying-pans, 20c ea. .40
2 Pudding bake-dishes, 50c ea. 1.00
2 Muffin pans (12 rings, each 30c) .60
1 Soap-dish .25
4 Small mixing bowls, 16c ea. .64
2 Pitchers, 55c ea. 1.10
3 Casseroles, 20c, 25c, 30c .75
6 Measuring cups, 90c ea. .60
6 Custard cups, 90c doz. .45
6 White plates, $1.45 doz. .73
6 Supply jars, 90c doz. .45
2 Vegetable brushes, 5c ea. .10
1 Grater .20
2 Egg-beaters, 10c ea. .20
12 Forks 2.25
12 Teaspoons 1.20
6 Tablespoons, $2.85 doz. 1.43
6 Vegetable knives, 25c ea. 1.50
6 Case knives, $3.00 doz. 1.50
2 Strainers, 20c ea. .40
1 Spatula .40
1 Bread knife .50
1 Can-opener .10
1 French knife .45
2 Water pails, $1.15 ea. 2.30
6 Dish-towels, 25c ea. 1.50
3 Dish-cloths, 10c ea. .30
3 Rinsing cloths, 10c ea. .30
1 yd. oil-cloth .45
5 yards cheesecloth .35

EQUIPMENT FOR RURAL SCHOOL HOUSEHOLD SCIENCE CABINET--NO. II

The equipment included in the Cabinet and Cupboard shown in Figure 27, page 154, is as follows:

For Six Pupils

1 Cupboard $15.00
1 Cabinet table 10.00
1 Three-burner oil-stove 21.00
1 Portable oven 2.20
1 Storage tin 1.35
2 Dish-pans 1.30
2 Draining pans .90
2 Scrub basins .80
2 Soap-dishes .40
1 Pail .55
2 Pails 1.80
2 Dippers .70
2 Tea-kettles 2.00
3 Kneading boards .90
3 Rolling-pins .45
1 Oil-can 1.10
1 Stove mitt .20
1 Dust-pan .10
1 Whisk .15
2 Scrub-brushes .30
3 Vegetable brushes .15
3 Stew pans 1.05
2 Sauce-pans .50
3 Frying-pans .75
3 Strainers .39
3 Pie plates .15
3 Measuring cups (tin) .30
1 Measuring cup (glass) .15
1 Double boiler .85
3 Baking-dishes .38
2 Cake tins .30
3 Toasters .30
1 Tea-pot .25
1 Coffee-pot .35
1 Pitcher (2 quarts) .18
1 " (1 pint) .10
5 Bowls .60
6 Custard cups .60
1 Butter crock .30
1 Covered pail (1 pint) .15
2 Trays .20
1 Grater .10
1 Potato masher .10
1 Can-opener .10
1 French knife .35
1 Bread " .35
3 Egg-beaters .15
1 Dover egg-beater .10
3 Wooden spoons .15
6 Paring knives .90

For Eight Pupils

1 Cupboard $15.00
1 Cabinet table 10.00
1 Collapsible table 5.00
1 Three-burner oil-stove 21.00
1 One-burner oil-stove 6.50
1 Portable oven 2.20
1 Storage tin 1.35
2 Dish-pans 1.30
2 Draining pans .90
4 Scrub basins 1.60
2 Soap-dishes .40
1 Pail .55
2 Pails 1.80
2 Dippers .70
3 Tea-kettles 3.00
4 Kneading boards 1.20
4 Rolling-pins .60
1 Oil-can 1.10
1 Stove mitt .20
1 Dust-pan .10
1 Whisk .15
4 Scrub brushes .60
4 Vegetable brushes .20
4 Stew-pans 1.40
2 Sauce-pans .50
4 Frying-pans 1.00
4 Strainers .52
4 Pie plates .20
4 Measuring cups (tin) .40
1 Measuring cup (glass) .15
1 Double boiler .85
4 Baking-dishes .50
2 Cake tins .30
4 Toasters .40
1 Tea-pot .25
1 Coffee-pot .35
2 Pitchers (2 quarts) .35
1 Pitcher (1 quart) .10
6 Bowls .72
6 Custard cups .60
1 Butter crock .30
1 Covered pail (1 pint) .15
2 Trays .20
1 Grater .10
1 Potato masher .10
1 Can-opener .10
1 French knife .35
1 Bread " .35
4 Egg-beaters .20
1 Dover egg-beater .10
4 Wooden spoons .20
6 Paring knives .90

For Twelve Pupils

1 Cupboard $15.00
1 Cabinet table 10.00
1 Collapsible table 5.00
2 Three-burner oil-stoves 42.00
1 Portable oven 2.20
1 storage tin 1.35
3 Dish-pans 1.95
3 Draining-pans 1.35
6 Scrub basins 2.40
3 Soap-dishes .60
1 Pail .55
2 Pails 1.80
2 Dippers .70
3 Tea-kettles 3.00
6 Kneading boards 1.80
6 Rolling-pins .90
1 Oil-can 1.10
2 Stove mitts .40
1 Dust-pan .10
1 Whisk .15
6 Scrub brushes .90
6 Vegetable brushes .30
6 Stew pans 2.10
3 Sauce-pans .75
6 Frying-pans 1.50
6 Strainers .78
6 Pie plates .30
6 Measuring cups (tin) .60
1 Measuring cup (glass) .15
1 Double boiler .85
6 Baking-dishes .75
3 Cake tins .45
6 Toasters .60
1 Tea-pot .25
1 Coffee-pot .35
2 Pitchers (2 qt.) .35
2 " (1 qt.) .20
8 Bowls .96
6 Custard cups .60
1 Butter crock .30
1 Covered pail (1 pt.) .15
2 Trays .20
1 Grater .10
1 Potato masher .10
1 Can-opener .10
1 French knife .35
1 Bread " .35
6 Egg-beaters .30
3 Dover egg-beaters .30
6 Wooden spoons .30
12 Paring knives 1.80

In the equipment for twelve pupils, three one-burner oil-stoves at $6.50 each might be used in place of the second large stove. In this case extra provision must be made for storing the stoves when not in use, as the cabinet shown does not provide space for more than one large stove. Care should be taken in using the one-burner stove to avoid upsetting it while it is in use. The equipment given above is generous, and reductions may be made if necessary. In any case it is not advisable that the whole equipment should be purchased at once; only sufficient to make a beginning should be secured, and further utensils may be added as the necessity for their use arises.

If a hot dish is served at the noon lunch, as is most desirable, the following will be needed in addition, in order to serve twenty-four pupils:

24 Knives $2.40
24 Forks 1.20
24 Teaspoons .40
12 Tablespoons .60
6 Salt and pepper shakers 1.50
24 Glasses 1.50
24 Plates 2.20
4 Plates (large) .50
24 Cups and saucers 4.20
24 Fruit and vegetable dishes 1.50

HECTOGRAPH

The hectograph is a device for making copies of written work. Teachers whose schools have limited black-board space will find it of great service. Recipes and other rules for work may be copied and distributed to the pupils, and thus kept in a permanent form. Many other uses in connection with the general work of the school will suggest themselves.

The following are the directions for making:

Soak 1-1/2 ounces of white glue in three ounces of water until it is well softened. Cook in a double boiler until the whole mass is smooth. Remove from the fire and add six ounces of glycerine. Mix well, re-heat, skim, and pour into a shallow pan or on a slate. Prick the bubbles as soon as they show. Allow the mixture to stand for twenty-four hours, and it is then ready for use.

Write the material to be copied, in hectograph ink, on a sheet of the same size as that on which the copy is to be made. Write clearly and space carefully. Wipe the hectograph with a damp cloth. Lay a sheet of unglazed paper on the hectograph, rub it carefully, and take off at once. This removes any drops of water, but leaves the surface moist. Lay the written side of the sheet on the hectograph and rub it carefully over its whole surface with a soft cloth, so that every particle of the writing comes in contact with the surface of the hectograph. Leave it there for four or five minutes. Lift one corner and peel off carefully. Lay a plain sheet on the hectograph and rub as before. Take off as before. If the copy is not clear, leave the next sheet on a little longer. When sufficient copies have been made, wash the hectograph with a wet cloth before putting it away. Keep in a cool, dry place.

THE RURAL SCHOOL LUNCH

The best method of approach to Household Science in the rural school is through the medium of the hot noon-day lunch or the preparation of one or two hot dishes to supplement the lunch brought from home. Owing to the fact that many pupils live far from the school, it is impossible for them to go home for the mid-day meal, and they are thus dependent upon lunches which they bring with them. Very frequently the pupils are allowed to eat their lunches where and how they please, and the method chosen is conducive neither to comfort nor to health. In fine weather they do not wish to lose any time from their games, and so they eat their food while playing, or they bolt it, in order that they may get to their play more quickly. In severe weather they crowd round the steps or the stove and do not hesitate to scatter crumbs and crusts. In one case even a teacher has been seen holding a sandwich in one hand and writing on the black-board with the other.

In many cases the lunch does not attract the pupil. It is often carried, without proper wrapping, in a tin pail, and it then absorbs the taste of the tin; again, it is often wrapped in a newspaper and is flavoured with printer's ink; occasionally, it is wrapped in cloth not too clean. Conditions such as these are not fair to the pupils. They come a long way to school, often over poor roads; and it is necessary, for both their physical and their mental development, that they should receive adequate nourishment served as attractively as possible. Many of the defects found among school children can be traced, to a greater or less extent, to lack of nutrition. The United States military draft shows that the number of those physically defective is from seven to twenty per cent. higher in rural districts than in towns and cities, and this difference is not peculiar to that country. May we not reasonably suppose that many of these defects are caused by mal-nutrition, and that this mal-nutrition is in part due to the poor noon-day lunch? As these defects hinder mental as well as physical development, the question of proper nutrition through the medium of the school lunch becomes an educational one.

THE BOX LUNCH

With proper care in the selection of food, the packing of the lunch box, and rational methods of consumption, there is no reason why the box lunch should not be nourishing, attractive, and possess an educational value.

It may be laid down as an axiom that every school lunch should be supervised by the teacher and hap-hazard methods of eating the lunch should be prohibited. Those schools that are fortunate enough to possess a large table can approximate somewhat to the best home conditions, and have the table set in the proper manner, as shown in Lesson VI, page 18. The pupils should sit round the table, at the head of which is the teacher, and the lunch may be made to partake of the nature of a family party. If rightly managed, the meal, even under the unusual difficulties presented in the rural school, may offer the most favourable opportunities to inculcate habits of cleanliness and neatness and to cultivate good manners. The pupils will learn something about the proper selection of food and the importance of thorough mastication. Clean hands and faces and tidy hair should be insisted upon, and individual drinking cups should be encouraged. As a manual training exercise, each pupil may be taught to make his own drinking cup from heavy waxed paper. Grace may be said by the older pupils in turn.

The table should be made to look as attractive as possible. The pupils, in turn, might undertake to have the table-cloth washed at home or, in place of a linen cloth, a covering of white oil-cloth may be used. In some cases the school garden will be able to supply flowers or a growing plant for a centrepiece. Three or four of the larger pupils, either boys or girls, may set the table in ten minutes, while the others are washing their hands and faces and tidying their hair. Some such plan as this will add palatability and cheer to the monotony of the everyday cold and often unattractive lunch and will create a spirit of true and healthy sociability among the pupils.

In schools that do not possess tables large enough to be used as suggested above, each pupil should be required to set one place at his own desk, as shown in the illustration on page 20. A paper napkin may be used for a table-cloth, if a small piece of white oil-cloth is not procurable. Each pupil retains his place until all have finished; he should then dispose of the crumbs and leave his desk tidy. From twenty minutes to half an hour is generally found sufficient for the meal. There should be cheerful conversation and restrained laughter throughout the meal, and acts of courtesy and generosity should be encouraged. At seasons when there are no flies, and on days when the weather is favourable, it is a pleasant change to serve lunch out-of-doors.

The lunch is provided by the home, but the teacher may give some useful lessons in Household Science by talks on the contents of the lunch box and the proper methods of packing the same, so that the food will keep in good condition until the time for its consumption arrives. It is the duty of the school authorities to provide a suitable storage place for the lunch boxes. These boxes should be kept free from dust or flies and in a place where the food will not freeze in winter. Open shelves, so often seen, are not suitable and a properly ventilated cupboard in the school-room should be provided.

CONTENTS OF THE LUNCH BOX

The whole question of the box lunch presents a serious problem, when we consider the large number of children who must depend upon it for their noon-day meal. This meal should be so constituted as to make it a real meal and not a makeshift. The same principles which govern the preparation of the meal should govern the preparation of the lunch box. It is said that the school lunch should consist of "something starchy and something meaty, something fat and something fibrous, something sweet and something savoury".

With so many varieties of breads, meats, cheese, jams, etc., innumerable kinds of sandwiches may be made. For example, there are brown, graham, rye, raisin, nut, and date breads, and equally many kinds of meat. Such variety makes it quite unnecessary to have an egg sandwich or hard-boiled eggs in the lunch box each day. While eggs are very valuable in the diet, a lunch with hard-boiled eggs five times each week becomes monotonous, and the appetite of the consumer flags. With skill and thought one can make little scraps of meat or other "left-overs" into attractive sandwiches. Ends of meat, ground and mixed with salad dressing or cream, make delicious sandwich fillings.

SANDWICH MAKING

The bread should be cut evenly.

The thickness of the slice should vary with the appetite of the
consumer.

The crust should not be removed.

The butter should be creamed for spreading.

Both slices should be buttered, in order to prevent the absorption of
the filling.

The filling should be carefully placed between the slices.

The sandwiches should be wrapped in waxed paper, to prevent drying.

SUGGESTIONS FOR SANDWICH FILLING

1. Egg and ham:

Three eggs hard boiled and chopped fine or ground
An equal amount of chopped or boiled ham
Salad dressing
Mix and spread.

2. Raisin filling:

One cup of raisins ground or chopped
One half-cup of water
One half-cup of sugar
One tablespoonful of flour into the same quantity of vinegar
Juice and grated rind of one lemon
Cook in a double boiler until thick.

3. Fig filling:

Remove the stems and chop the figs fine.
Add a small quantity of water.
Cook in a double boiler until a paste is formed.
Add a few drops of lemon juice.
Chopped peanuts may be added.

4. Egg:

Chop a hard-cooked egg.
Mix with salad dressing or melted butter, to a
spreading consistency.

5. Equal parts of finely-cut nuts and grated cheese,
with salad dressing

6. Equal parts of grated cheese and chopped olives

7. Sardines with lemon juice or a little dressing

8. Chopped dates with a little cream. Nuts may be added.

9. Thinly sliced tomatoes (seasonal)

10. Sliced cucumbers

11. Marmalade. Chopped nuts may be added.

SUGGESTIONS FOR PLANNING

In selecting the food the following suggestions may prove helpful:

_Protein_--Sandwiches of fish, meat, egg, cheese, nuts, dish of cottage
cheese

For the older pupils, baked beans

_Carbohydrates_--Bread, cake, cookies, jam, honey, dates, figs, raisins,
prunes, candy

_Fats_--Butter, cream, peanut-butter

_Mineral matter_--Celery, lettuce, radish, tomatoes; fresh fruits

_Note._--When possible, a bottle of clean sweet milk
should form part of every lunch.

SUGGESTIONS FOR DESSERTS

Cup custards of various flavours

Cookies with nuts and fruits

Cakes--not too rich

Pies well made and with good filling

Candy--plain home-made

Preserves

Canned fruits

Fresh fruits

As often as possible, a surprise should be included, generally in the form of a dessert of which the pupil is fond. A surprise adds to the pupil's pleasure in eating and, indirectly, aids digestion.

PACKING THE LUNCH BOX

Much of the attractiveness of a lunch depends upon the manner of packing. We must consider the fact that the foods must be packed together closely and must remain so packed for several hours. This makes careful packing a necessity.

RULES FOR PACKING

1. Be sure that the box is absolutely clean. 2. Line it with fresh paper every time it is used. 3. Wrap each article of food in wax paper. 4. Place in the box neatly, the food that is to be used last in the bottom of the box, unless it is easily crushed. 5. Lay a neatly folded napkin on the top.

EQUIPMENT FOR PACKING

Lunch box
Waxed paper
Paper napkin
Cup or container with screw top
Drinking cup
Knife, fork, and spoon
Thermos bottle or jar for milk or other liquid

The box itself should be of odourless material, permanent, and light in weight, admitting of safe means of ventilation. Paper bags should never be used for food containers, as it is impossible to pack the lunch in them firmly and well and there is danger of their being torn or of insects or flies creeping into them. Boxes of fibre, tin, basket weave, or other material, may be used. The box will require scrubbing, and should be frequently dried and aired well. Many types of lunch boxes have compartments provided for the various kinds of food.

Waxed paper and paper napkins, or the somewhat heavier paper towels of much the same size, are very useful for packing lunches, and may be obtained at a low price, particularly if bought in large quantities. An extra napkin, either of paper or cloth, should be put in the basket, to be spread over the school desk when the lunch is eaten. Napkins can be made out of cotton crepe at a cost of a very few cents each. The crepe may be bought by the yard and should be cut into squares and fringed. Such napkins have the advantage of not needing to be ironed.

Paper cups, jelly tumblers with covers which can now be bought in several sizes, and bottles with screw tops, such as those in which candy and other foods are sold, may all be used for packing jellies, jams, honey, etc. The thermos bottle may be used for carrying milk, or, if this is too expensive, a glass jar with a tight cover may be substituted. If the thermos bottle is used, hot drinks may also be carried.

SERVING A HOT DISH

The serving of a hot lunch or of one hot dish need be neither an elaborate nor an expensive matter. Many rural schools in the United States, some of them working under conditions worse than any of ours, are serving at least one hot dish to supplement the lunch brought from home. The advantages of this plan are:

1. It enables the pupils to do better work in the afternoon.

2. It adds interest to the school work and makes the pupils more ready
to go to school in bad weather.

3. It gives some practical training and paves the way toward definite
instruction in Household Science.

4. It gives a better balance to meals, and as compared with a cold lunch
it aids digestion.

5. It teaches neatness.

6. It gives opportunity to teach table manners.

7. It strengthens the relationship between the home and the school.

THE METHOD

The teacher should have a meeting of the school trustees and of the mothers of the pupils and outline the method of procedure. It is only in this way that the co-operation of all can be secured, and without this co-operation there can be no success. This meeting should be addressed by the Public School Inspector; and after the consent of the parents and the trustees has been secured, the scheme may be put into operation. Some thought will have to be given to the organization, in order that the plan may work smoothly. If properly organized, there need be little or no interruption to the ordinary routine of the school.

The pupils, both boys and girls, should be arranged in groups, each group taking the work in turn. Even the smallest pupils should be allowed to take part, as there are many duties which they can perform successfully. If each group is composed of five or six pupils, the work may be arranged as follows: two will prepare the dish, two will get the table or the desks ready (or each pupil may prepare his own desk), and the others will wash the dishes.

The furnishing of supplies is a problem which each teacher will have to solve for herself, according to the conditions which exist in the community. Supplies which can be stored are best purchased by the school trustees; while the mothers of the pupils should furnish the perishable articles, such as milk and butter. As often as possible, the pupils may be asked to bring various articles, such as a potato, an apple, a carrot, an egg, etc. These may be combined and prepared in quantities. The school garden should be relied upon to supply many vegetables in season, thus adding interest and life to both the garden work and the lunch. In some districts the neighbourhood is canvassed for subscriptions in order to provide funds to purchase supplies for the term lunches. Some schools give a concert or entertainment in order to raise funds for this purpose, and in others all the supplies have been purchased by the school trustees.