Chapter III

GUN-CARRIAGES, GEAR, IMPLEMENTS AND EQUIPMENTS.

GUN-CARRIAGES.

207. All gun-carriages shall be constructed in exact conformity to the drawings furnished by the Bureau, and no alterations whatever will be permitted without its express sanction.

The Inspector of Ordnance will keep approved copies of all plans, and, in order to insure uniformity, will report to the Bureau any deviations from the standard drawings which he may observe in carriages received from other Yards.

The spaces required for efficient working of all guns are represented in diagrams X, Y, Z, and these, as well as the distances between pivot-centres, sizes and positions of bolts, are to be strictly adhered to.

The distance between pivot-centres of all XI-in., X-in., IX-in., and 100-pdr. carriages shall be either 142 or 117-3/4 inches, depending on the breadth of beam, position of hatches and other obstructions, and shall not be deviated from except by explicit directions of the Bureau, on a report of the particular circumstances in each case.

For the 60-pdr. Parrott, 130 inches between centres; and for the 30-pdr., 120 inches.

The sizes of sockets and pivot-bolts are established as follows:

FOR XI-IN., X-IN., FOR 60, 30,
IX.-IN., AND 100-PDR. AND 20-PDR.
Inches. Inches.

Length of bolt under the head 18. 14. Diameter of bolt 4. 3. Do. hole in socket 4.1 3.1 Do. boss 10.5 8. Height of boss 1.5 1.1

Slot in the pivot-plate, 1/16 larger than the boss.

For XI-in., X-in., IX-in., and 100-pdr. carriages, the fighting and shifting sockets are bossed, the housing-socket plain.

For 60-pdr., 30-pdr., and 20-pdr. carriages, the shifting-socket alone is bossed.

For broadside-guns, the following positions for bolts are established:

20 AND 24 IN. 16 AND 18 IN.
PORT-SILLS. PORT-SILLS.
Inches. Inches.

Height of centre of lower bolt from deck 14.75 10.75 Distance between the bolts 3.75 3.75 Distance of centre of 1st bolt from side of port 14. 14. Distance of centre of 2d bolt from side of port 22. 22. Distance of centre of training-bolt from side of port 36. 36. Height of training-bolt from deck 21. 14. & 16. Height of securing-bolt (side-tackle bolt) above port-sill 8. 8.

For IX-in. guns, the port-sill should not be less than 20 inches in height, and no port-sill less than 16 inches; otherwise, the carriages will not give sufficient elevation, and the position of the Gun Captain in aiming is exceedingly awkward and inconvenient.

Scraping and staining gun-carriages or keeping them bright is prohibited; they should be kept well painted, and the trucks, axletrees, and trunnion-holes oiled.

All new work shall be primed with red-lead.

Wrought-iron Broadside carriages, for IX-inch, new 8-in. of 6,500 lbs., and 32-pdr. of 4,500 lbs. shell-guns, have been designed by the Ordnance Bureau, submitted to trial with success, and are being issued for service at sea.

GUN-GEAR.

208. Breechings for all guns are to be made of the best hemp, of three-stranded rope, shroud-laid, and soft; and for smooth-bore guns not to measure less than seven and a half nor more than eight inches in the coil, excepting those for IX-inch guns, which are to measure nine and a half inches, and for XI-inch ten and a half inches.

209. The breeching-bolts must never be of less dimensions than those prescribed by regulation, and there must be double sets for the IX and XI inch guns.

210. In fitting breechings, a thimble is to be spliced into one end, the strands stuck through twice, and marled down. A thimble is to be turned into the other end, so that the length of the breeching may be conveniently altered. Thus fitted, when the gun is run in and levelled, breechings must be long enough to allow the muzzle of the gun to come a foot inside of the upper port-sill, if the breadth of the vessel will allow it. With guns of violent recoil this distance may be advantageously doubled, where there is room enough, as thereby the strain will be much lessened.

Breechings are neither to be covered, blackened, nor rendered less pliable in any way.

BREECHINGS.

KEY: A: LENGTH OF BREECHING WHEN CUT. B: LENGTH OF BREECHING WHEN FINISHED. C: CIRCUMFERENCE OF BREECHING. D: Diameter. E: Depth. F: Radius of Score. G: Diam. bolt-hole. H: WEIGHT, INCLUDING THIMBLE.

--------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----------------------+------+ | | | | THIMBLE. | | CLASS | | | +-----------------------+ | OF GUN. | A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H | --------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+ |Feet.|Feet.|Inch.|Inch.|Inch.|Inch.|Inch.| Lbs. | _Pivot._ | | | | | | | | | XI-inch | 38. | 32. | 10.5| 6. | 4. | 1.75| 2.05| 172. | X-inch | 37.5| 31.5| 10. | 6. | 6. | 1.75| 2.05| 170. | IX-inch | 34. | 28.5| 9.5| 6. | 3.6 | 1.6 | 2.05| 110. | 100-pounder | 37.5| 31.5| 9.5| 6. | 3.6 | 1.6 | 2.05| 130. | 60-pounder | 33. | 28. | 8. | 5.5 | - | 1.3 | 1.55| 91. | 30-pounder | 27.5| 23.5| 7. | 5. | - | 1.2 | 1.55| 43. | 20-pounder | 26. | 21. | 6. | 4. | - | 1.0 | 1.55| 40. | | | | | | | | | | _Broadside._ | | | | | | | | | XI-inch |38.0 | 32.0| 10.5| 6. | 4. | 1.75| 2.05| 172. | X-inch |34.5 | 28.5| 10. | 6. | 4. | 1.75| 2.05| 160. | IX-inch |31.5 | 25.5| 9.5| 6. | 3.6 | 1.6 | 2.05| 100. | 8-in. 63 cwt. |28. | 23.3| 8. | 5.5 | - | 1.3 | 1.55| 76. | 8-in. { 55 cwt.}|27. | 22.3| 8. | 5.5 | - | 1.3 | 1.55| 72. | {6,500 lbs.}| | | | | | | | | 32-pounder 57 cwt. |28.5 | 24. | 8. | 5.5 | - | 1.3 | 1.55| 76. | 32-pounder { 42 cwt.}|26. | 21.5| 8. | 5.5 | - | 1.3 | 1.55| 70. | {4,500 lbs.}| | | | | | | | | 32-pounder 33 cwt. |23.5 | 19. | 8. | 5.5 | - | 1.3 | 1.55| 65. | 32-pounder 27 cwt. |22. | 17.5| 8. | 5.5 | - | 1.3 | 1.55| 61. | | | | | | | | | | _Broadside Rifle._ | | | | | | | | | 100-pounder |35.5 | 31. | 9.5| 6. | 3.6 | 1.6 | 2.05| 115. | 60-pounder |28. | 23.5| 8. | 5.5 | - | 1.3 | 1.55| 80. | 30-pounder |25.5 | 21.5| 7. | 5. | - | 1.2 | 1.55| 39. | 20-pounder |23. | 17.5| 6. | 4. | - | 1. | 1.55| 34. | --------------------------+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+------+

211. Gun-tackle falls will be made of Manilla or such other pliable rope as may be directed from time to time by the Bureau of Ordnance. It is prohibited to blacken them or to diminish their pliability. Three-inch rope will be found large enough for the heaviest, and from 2-1/2 to 2-1/4 inch for the lighter guns.

The rope being well stretched, the falls are to be cut of sufficient length to allow the full recoil, leaving end enough to hitch round the straps of their inner blocks, when hooked to the middle bolts.

212. Blocks for gun-tackles should have pins of hardened copper, turned smooth, and sheaves of lignum-vitae without bouching. Those to reeve 3-inch falls to be 10 inches, those for 2-1/2 inch falls 9 inches, and those for 2-1/4 inch falls 8 inches long. The hooks of gun-tackle blocks are not to be less than one and a half inch diameter at the bend for heavy, and one and a quarter for light, broadside-guns.

Metallic blocks with nibs, which keep the blocks fair with the falls, and thus prevent the falls from fouling in the recoil, are to be supplied to all Marsilly and heavy pivot carriages.

GRIOLET.

213. The GRIOLET-PURCHASE for dismounting guns on covered decks is composed of--

A toggle-block, made of elm or oak, the outer end or head of which is made rather larger in diameter than the inner one, which exactly fits the bore of the gun. The head has two sheaves in it, so as to form the lower block of the muzzle-purchase, and is bound at the outer end with an iron band.

A double cascabel-block of iron is made either with a shackle or to fit between the jaws of the cascabel, where it is secured by the cascabel-pin. The iron pins on which the sheaves revolve are formed with eyes, for the convenience of hitching the standing part of the purchase.

Two iron treble-blocks, one for the muzzle and the other for the breech-purchase.

The muzzle-purchase block is so fitted as to be either shackled or toggled to the housing-bolt above the port, and the breech-purchase block has an iron strap terminating above, with an eye by which it is shackled to a bolt passing through the deck above the gun. This bolt has an eye in one end, and a screw or key-slit at the other, and, when in place, is secured above the deck with a nut or key, between which and the deck a washer of hard wood or iron of suitable breadth and thickness is placed.

The hole through which this bolt is put should be directly above the cascabel-block when the muzzle of the gun is under the housing-bolt, and may be bored at the time the gun is to be dismounted; it is to be stopped afterwards with a plug of wood coated with white-lead.

But as it is desirable that every division on the gun-deck should be exercised in mounting and dismounting its guns, a hole may be made in the deck above each division and bouched with a composition screw-tap.

The purchase-falls should not be less than three and a half inches in size, and should be made of Manilla rope, of sufficient length to reeve full, the gun being supposed to be on deck and the upper blocks in place, allowing also sufficient end for splicing in the thimbles and hitching the standing part of the purchase when rove.

An iron thimble, large enough to hook the double-block of a side or train tackle, is spliced into the end of each purchase-fall.

SELVAGEE WADS.

214. Selvagee wads are made by the wad-machine at the Navy Yards. This consists of pairs of disks adapted to each calibre of guns, which being placed face to face on a spindle and keyed, present an annular score, grooved in such a way as to make, when filled, a grommet of the requisite size. Transverse notches are cut in the circumference of the disks to the bottom of the score, for the convenience of marling the wad before taking it off the mould.

In making the wad, the end of a rope-yarn is fixed in the score, and the mould is turned by a crank until the score is filled. The grommet thus formed is marled like a selvagee strap, and a section of about an inch is taken out of it, in order to make the wad, when swelled by dampness, enter the bore of the gun readily.

Selvagee wads should be made neither too hard nor too soft; and to avoid either of these extremes, a sufficient number of hitches only will be taken to give the wad the consistency required for service.

Sections of one-third or one-fourth of these wads will answer as well, in case of need.

MAGAZINE-SCREENS.

215. Are made of thick fearnaught, or of double baize, with holes through which to pass the powder; these holes to be covered by broad flaps of the same material. One screen is to be hung abaft, and another forward of the magazine passing-hatch and scuttles in sloops-of-war; in ships-of-the-line and frigates, one is usually to be hung abaft the fore, and one forward of the after, magazine-scuttle; but as ships are differently arranged, two to each magazine will be allowed, if required.

Canvas chutes for returning empty passing-boxes are to be supplied to each scuttle.

MAGAZINE-DRESSES.

216. Are to be of worsted, like a simple shirt, to reach to the knees--no metal buttons to be worn.

The shoes must be made wholly of cotton canvas or buckskin. In hot climates or warm weather generally, the naked feet are preferred. India-rubber and woollen slippers are prohibited.

RATTLES FOR CALLING BOARDERS.

217. To be made like those used by watchmen, of white oak, or some other similar wood. Rattle, 12 inches long; ratchet, 2 inches in diameter; spring, one inch in width, and of sufficient thickness and elasticity to produce the requisite sound. Weight enough should be given to the butt to cause it to revolve round the handle with ease.

Fixed rattles of greater power will be attached to suitable places on each deck.

SHELL-WHIPS.

218. To be made of two-inch rope, rove through two single blocks one above the other, in the shell-hatchway, and the ends knotted together. A hook is fixed on each part of the whip, near the block, so that the parts being bowsed on alternately, a full box is brought up on one hook and an empty one lowered by the other, at the same time.

FLASH-PANS.

219. Shallow copper bowls, large enough to hold an ounce of powder, with a handle two feet long, to be supplied to all vessels.

DARK LANTERNS.

220. To be made of copper, tinned inside, with two handles at the side, that the shade may be turned without taking hold of the top. The whole height, 12 inches; diameter, 4 inches.

BOAT GRAPNELS.

221. Are made of round iron, quite light, for throwing into the rigging or chains of the enemy, for the purpose of holding on when boarding; their prongs are barbed.

Six feet of small chain are to be attached to the ring, and connected with six fathoms of one and three quarter rope.

TARGETS.

222. In the construction of targets for practice at sea, the chief object will be to give buoyancy and stability to the screen, with sufficient development of its surface. To these ends, whiskey or beef barrels, supporting boards of sufficient length, will afford staging for the masts, yards, and screen; the heel of the mast passing through the stage, and having ballast attached to it. The stage should be so fitted as to be readily put together when wanted, and taken apart for stowage.

Harbor targets may be anchored, or supported on stakes; but it would conduce to good practice to stretch a screen of sufficient length to show, distinctly, four or six ports, with the proper intervals between. This will the better exhibit the lateral effect of the firing of each gun, and of the concentration of fire from several guns at known distances.

PACKING-BOXES.

223. Cartridges for small arms, primers, spur-tubes, percussion-caps, spare fuzes, false-fires, blue-lights, port-fires, and signal-rockets, will generally be supplied to vessels in boxes, in which they can be kept with little liability to injury, until wanted for use. (See Part I., Page 10, Art. 42.)

These boxes are to be safely kept and returned into store, or accounted for in the same manner as other articles of Ordnance stores, by those persons in whose charge they may be placed. They will be held pecuniarily responsible for their loss.

GUN-SLINGS

224. Must be made of chain of 3/4-inch iron, and tested, to secure proper strength; the rings are to be of 1-1/4-inch iron. The length of the slings should exceed by one foot that of the longest gun on board. The two parts should be parcelled and marled together for a space of two feet before and one foot behind the trunnions of the longest gun, and a piece of three-inch rope spliced around both parts in the wake of the parcelling, long enough to take four or five turns round the chase of the largest gun.

TRUNNION-SIGHT FOR MORTARS AND PIVOT-GUNS.

225. The trunnion-sight is designed to be used only when the required elevation passes the limits of the other sights. It is formed of a bar of mahogany, or other hard wood not liable to warp, of about forty inches in length, two inches wide, and one inch thick, with a brass notch at the rear end and a point at the other, fixed in, and parallel to, the upper edge. It is attached, by a stout thumb-screw, to the axis of the left trunnion, around which it revolves when the screw is slack.

A semicircular plate, graduated to degrees, is attached to the bar, so that the sight may be used with the tables showing the corresponding ranges of the several classes of guns with their distant firing-charge. (_See_ TABLES OF RANGES, Appendix D.)

The upper edge of the sight-bar corresponds with 0 deg. when the line of sight is parallel to the axis of the bore. A small level let into the upper surface of the rear end of the bar shows when the bar is level.

In using this sight, the thumb-screw is first loosened, and the rear end of the sight raised until the mark on the trunnion coincides with the degree of elevation required for the range, as given in the Tables: clamp the thumb-screw, and elevate the gun until the bubble is at 0 deg., then give the lateral training.

226. Tangent-sights placed on the side of the breech, with a fixed front sight on the rimbase, as in rifled cannon, will hereafter be supplied to all pivot-guns; and these will give the sight with equal accuracy at all elevations.

RAMMERS AND SPONGES.

227. Rammer-heads are to be made of well-seasoned ash, birch, beech, or other tough wood, of the form and dimensions given in the drawings furnished by the Bureau to the different Navy Yards. The face of the rammer is hollowed, so as to embrace the front of the ball and press the selvagee wad home in its place. A hole is bored lengthwise through the head to admit the tenon, which is fastened by a pin of hard wood, three-tenths of an inch in diameter, passing transversely through the head and tenon. The diameter of the staff is 1.75, and that of the tenon 1.5 inch. The diameter of the rammer-head will be 0.25 inch less than that of the bore or chamber to which it is adapted.

For all chambered guns except those of the Dahlgren pattern, the rammers will be adapted to the chamber, but, as above described, will answer equally well for the shot and selvagee wad.

Staves are made of tough ash, and are one foot longer than the bores of the guns for which they are intended: they are to have grooves 1/16 of an inch deep and 1/4 of an inch broad cut in them to show when the "ordinary charges" are in place, and, by due allowances, the others also.

For rifled cannon, rammer-heads are made of composition, of the pattern prescribed by the Bureau.

228. Sponge-heads are to be made of poplar, or other suitable light wood. A hole 1.5 inch in diameter is bored through the axis to admit the tenon of the staff, into which the worm is previously secured by means of a brass pin which passes through an eye in its shank and the tenon. The worm is intended to project half an inch beyond the face of the sponge-head, when the tenon is in place, and to have free play back into its socket when pressed against the bottom of the bore. It must be two inches in length and one and a quarter inch in diameter, made of elastic brass or composition wire two-tenths of an inch in diameter, and tapering at the points, so as to preserve its elasticity and firmness. It is to be left-handed, in order to act when turned to the right, or with the sun.

The wood of which sponge-heads are made should be well seasoned, and gotten out of a size but little greater than the diameter of the heads for which it is intended, so that there may be as little shrinkage as possible in the finished heads.

The heads, when finished, should also be primed with several coats of boiled linseed oil or varnish, as the porous wood of which they are made is apt to become water-soaked, or to split on exposure to the air.

229. For chambered guns the sponges must fit the chambers and slopes, and a portion of the main bore, as shown in the drawings furnished by the Bureau. When made of wool, the whole surface is covered, and so sheared as to have no windage, and to be even with the points of the worm, that they make take effect. The heads for woollen sponges should be one inch less in diameter than the bores or chambers of the guns for which they are intended.

In future, sheepskins will not be allowed, but covers for sponge-heads made up ready to slip over the head and be tacked on.

230. The heads for the sponges of unchambered guns are to be eight inches long; and all sponge-heads intended to be covered with woollen material must be slightly tapered and secured by a thin copper hoop, fastened with copper tacks, on the inner end.

231. For Bristle Sponges the heads must be 1.5 inch less in diameter than the bores or chambers for which they are designed. The bristles are to be sheared so as to work easily and leave no windage. The worm must project one-fourth of an inch, in order to take the bottom of the bore, and special care is to be taken by the Inspector that it has both the necessary stiffness to act efficiently and elastically enough, when pressed home, to yield sufficiently to allow the bristles to act also. Spiral spaces extending the whole length of the sponge-head, including the portion adapted to the main bore in chambered guns, are to be left, in order to bring out the unconsumed portions of cartridges. These spaces must be left-handed like the worm.

Great care is necessary, in stowing them, to prevent the bristles from being crushed down by contact with hard substances. For this purpose fenders will be provided with copper tacks, on the inner end.

One will be allowed to each division, for each calibre, for cleaning guns.

232. Sponge-staves are to be made of tough ash, 1.75 inch in diameter, and must be 18 inches longer than the bores of the guns for which they are intended.

233. Sponge-caps are made of duck, and, except for spar-deck guns where they are exposed to the weather, should not be painted, but they, as well as the staves, should be kept clean by scrubbing. A becket should be attached to the end to haul them off by.

Sponges should be washed carefully and dried after use before putting the caps on, and frequently examined and dried to prevent their rotting.

ROBINSON'S WORM.

234. This worm consists of a screw, 1-1/4 inch in diameter, of two turns, at the end of a cylindrical iron shank, with a socket and straps riveted to the staff, which is 1.5 inch in diameter. The worm is supported in the axis of the bore by means of a guide-ring of composition, kept in place on the shank, six inches from the end, by a shoulder and forelock.

Thus adjusted, it is used to draw the junk-wad and cartridge; the latter being laid hold of by the tie, if the staff be held in the axis of the bore, is uninjured.

When the ring is removed the worm will be equally efficient in drawing the selvagee wad.

LADLES.

235. Ladles, when required, are to be made according to the patterns sent to each of the Navy Yards. Ladles which may be on hand are to be tried in drawing projectiles from the guns before they are issued for service. The Ladle will not draw rifle projectiles, and should not be used for that purpose.

SCRAPERS FOR BOTTOM OF BORE.

236. These consist of two steel blades, crossing each other in the middle, and having their edges conformed to the curve of the bottom of the bore. They are inserted in a sponge-bead, and are designed to remove the cake usually caused by the adherence of the bottoms of the cylinders to the bottom of the bore.

The edges of the scrapers are so bevelled as to act only when turned to the right, or with the sun.

Scrapers are also to be supplied for rifled cannon, made to clean a groove and the adjacent lands.

ORDINARY HANDSPIKES.

237. Handspikes are to be made of well-seasoned white hickory, of the form and dimensions directed by the Bureau. They are always to be shod, stained black, and oiled. The Ordnance Officer of the Navy Yard will ascertain that they ship freely in the training-loops or sockets, and that the toe is sufficiently rounded not to cut the decks when held vertically.

DETAILS OF HANDSPIKES. | No. 1. | No. 2. | No. 3. ----------------------------------+--------+--------+-------- { Total in. | 64. | 60. | { Square part in. | 20. | 20. | Length { Octagon part in. | 6. | 6. | { Round part in. | 38. | 34. | { Shoe in. | 18. | 18. | Diameter { of square in. | 2.75 | 2.50 | { of small end in. | 1.75 | 1.6 | Radius of quarter round in. | 4.5 | 3.5 | Weight lbs. | 16. | 12. | ----------------------------------+--------+--------+--------

ROLLER HANDSPIKES.

238. There are two sizes of roller handspikes: No. 1 for the IX-in. shell-gun and 100-pdr. Marsilly, or two-truck carriage; No. 2 for all other guns.

They are composed of--the head and socket of bronze, handle of hickory, and the roller of lignum-vitae.

The boss on the head makes, with the handle, an angle of 70 deg., and, when vertical, lifts the carriage half an inch (0.5).

Commander Beaumont's roller handspike has been adopted.

It is a common error of seamen to stoop, with a view of raising the carriage higher. The lift is greatest when the end of the handle is at the hip.

DETAILS OF ROLLER HANDSPIKES. | No. 1. | No. 2.
------------------------------------------------+---------+--------
{ Extreme in. | 70.5 | 66.
{ of handle in. | 63.0 | 62.5
Length { of socket in. | 12. | 7.5
{ of boss in. | 1.6 | 1.3
{ of boss from centre of roller in. | 4.5 | 3.6
{ of axle-pin in. | 9.5 | 7.5
{ of roller in. | 4.5 | 3.4
{ of socket in. | 2.9 | 2.5
Diameter { of hole in socket in. | 2.6 | 2.25
{ Small end of handle in. | 1.5 | 1.50
{ of hole for axle-pin in. | .75 | .62
Width { of roller in. | 3.60 | 3.00
{ Exterior of head in. | 9.00 | 7.00
Weight lbs. | 32. | 19.5
------------------------------------------------+---------+--------

IMPRESSION-TAKERS.

239. All vessels carrying XI and IX inch guns, and all iron rifles, are to be furnished with an impression-taker and wax. Impressions of the vent and bore, as described in Art. 57, are to be taken after every ten shotted rounds in practice, and at the close of an action. The last one should be preserved for comparison with the succeeding one; and when, in the opinion of the Commanding Officer, the wear becomes excessive, or a decided crack shows itself, a duplicate must be forwarded to the Bureau for examination. In forwarding them, they should be tacked on a piece of thin board secured in the bottom of a box. If wrapped in cotton or oakum they are generally defaced. The date, number of fires, Register Nos. of guns, ship from which forwarded, and other remarks written and pasted on the under side of the box-cover.

In expert hands any small spar--such as a boat's mast--will take the impression equally well.

PASSING-BOXES.

240. Passing-boxes are to be made of strong and well-tanned harness or sole leather, strongly sewed, or of such other material as may be directed.

For 8-inch and 32-pounder guns they are to be of sufficient height to contain two near-firing charges.

Their diameters, in the clear, must be half an inch greater than those of the cartridges they are to contain.

Their tops must be distinctly lettered, in letters one inch and a half long, with the calibre and class of gun they are intended to serve, and made to slide on the beckets.

241. All passing-boxes are to be painted black, with the calibre and charge painted in white letters two and one-half (2-1/2) inches long on the side, and one and one-half (1-1/2) on the top.

242. If, however, there are any guns of the same calibre on spar-decks requiring lighter charges, the lower half of the box shall be painted white.

For gun-decks in similar cases the lower half shall be painted red.

FIRE-TUBS.

243. Fire-tubs should be made of oak, of the patterns furnished by the Bureau, the hoops being of iron. The top is to be provided with a stout hoop of wood, to ship and unship, with a grating across it of stout copper wire, the meshes of which must be small enough to prevent the passing-boxes from falling into the water when struck over the tub.

FIRE-BUCKETS.

244. Fire-buckets should be made of light well-tanned sole leather, according to pattern.

A few Rubber buckets have been issued for trial and report.

THE GROMMET MUZZLE-LASHING FOR HOUSING GUNS.

245. Consists of a grommet made of rope double the size of the gun-tackle falls, with two cringles worked into it for the frapping lashing, which will be of stuff half the size of the tackle-falls.

The grommet will be made large enough just to slip over the swell of the muzzle when the bight is over the housing hook-bolt, and the gun is in position for housing. It will be wormed throughout, and parcelled in the wake of the housing-bolt and frapping lashing, and where there is no swell, in the wake of the muzzle-ring.

Where the housing-bolt is an eye-bolt, the grommet is secured to it by means of a toggle which has a lanyard.

FUZE-WRENCHES.

246. For the Navy time-fuze these are made of steel, with a round shank, four inches long, four-tenths of an inch diameter. Prongs round, one and a half inch long, three-tenths of an inch diameter. Cross-handle of wood, with small forked screw-driver in one end for water-cap. The prongs of the wrench are flattened at the ends, and are nine-tenths of an inch apart.

A three-armed wrench is also required for the Parrott, Schenkl, and Hotchkiss fuzes, all of which differ.

Two to be allowed to each shell-room.

RIGGING STOPPERS.

247. Standing rigging, when stranded or shot away, is most readily and effectually secured for the moment by using stoppers composed of two small dead-eyes, fitted with double selvagee tails and lanyards, of sizes suitable to the rigging, whether lower or topmast. These are to be fitted on board ship, and set up by means of pendant-tackles or jiggers, as the case may require.

HARNESS-CASKS FOR BOATS.

248. For expeditions, the launches and first cutters of all vessels are each to be provided with a week's supply of pork, sufficient for all the boats' crews of the ship, kept in quarter barrels or kegs, adapted to the form of the boat and to convenient stowage.

ACCOUTREMENTS FOR CAPTAINS OF GUNS, BOARDERS, AND SMALL-ARMS MEN.

249. WAIST-BELTS, to be made of buff leather--grained leather becomes stiff and horny when exposed to the sea-air--two inches wide, and from forty to forty-four inches long; a pattern buckle has been adopted.

The same belt is used by Captains of guns and boarders, as well as by small-arms men and the crews of field-howitzers; the frogs and boxes to hold the arms and ammunition being fitted with loops to slip on and off the belt as circumstances require, and in the following order:

1st and 2d Captains of guns, and of field and boat howitzers, wear the primer-box in front; if they are boarders, the sword on the left and the pistol-frog on the right hip. These equipments, consequently, will be slid on towards the loop end of the belt, in the order just named.

Other boarders, and guns' crews of howitzers when used as field-guns, wear their arms, as in the preceding case, without the primer-box.

Men armed with muskets, and acting on shore, will wear musket cartridge-boxes, fitted with frog and scabbard for bayonet on the waist-belt.

Men who may be armed with carbines on shore duty will wear cartridge-boxes with waist-belts. For boat duty, or when armed with pistols and swords, they will wear the waist-belt with the proper frog and boxes.

250. Instead of the sword-frog, the sword scabbards of Admiral D.D. Porter's pattern are fitted with a loop to slide on the waist-belt. This scabbard also dispenses with the brass mountings, which are replaced by leather ones. The whole is fastened by copper rivets, instead of being sewed.

251. PRIMER-BOXES, of black bridle leather, rectangular in form, and of the size to contain, loosely, the tin packing-box. Flap covering the top and front with a button-hole strap one inch in width, sewed near the bottom: brass button riveted to the bottom of the box. Loop, two inches wide, placed upright on the back of the box for the waist-belt to pass through.

252. PISTOL-FROG--buff leather--wide enough at the mouth to cover the cock of the pistol, and at the lower part to accommodate the stock; upper part of the back of it turned down to form a loop large enough to admit the waist-belt. The stitches forming the side seams not to come nearer than 0.25 inch from the edges of the leather. To be worn on right hip.

Pocket--thin bridle leather--to contain three cartridges; flap, tongue, and loop.

Cap-pocket, like the cartridge-pocket; lining, a strip of sheepskin with the wool on, glued with fish-glue and sewed to the back at the mouth of the pocket.

These two pockets are of the same depth, and occupy the whole breadth of the pistol-frog.

253. THUMBSTALLS, of buckskin, with hair-stuffed pad, and thongs for the wrist.

254. MUSKET CARTRIDGE-BOX--black bridle leather--length, 7.2 inches; width, 1.6 inch; depth in front, 5.8 inches; inner cover--upper leather--4 inches wide, with end pieces sewed to it so as to cover the ends of the box; flap--harness leather--8.5 inches wide at the bottom, 8 inches at top, stamped U.S.N. in an oval on the outside; a button-hole strap, sewed near the bottom; brass button riveted to the bottom of the box; loop--bridle leather--with a hole in the middle to hook the shoulder-belt to, sewed to the back of the box for the waist-belt to pass through.

Cap-pocket--light upper leather--sewed to the front of the box; length, 4-1/2; depth, 2-1/2 inches; flap, tongue, and loop--bridle leather; lining, a strip of sheepskin with the wool on, 1.5 inch wide, glued with fish-glue and sewed at the mouth of the pocket; pocket for ball-screw and wiper sewed on the right, and for cone-key and cone-pick on the left of the cap-pocket.

Two tin linings, each with a lower division, 3 inches by 3.3 inches, open in front, to contain a bundle of ten cartridges, and two bundles of caps containing 25 each, packed in water-proof paper. Each tin has also two upper divisions, 2.7 inches deep--one of 2 inches by 1.35 inch for six cartridges; the other, 1.35 inch square, for four cartridges. The edges of the tins are turned over and soldered down, to prevent them from cutting the fingers.

All the tin linings should be made to slide freely in the boxes.

255. CARBINE CARTRIDGE-BOX.--The leather parts are like those of the musket cartridge-box; length, 6.4 inches; depth in front, 3.7 inches; width, 1.3 inch; inner cover, 3.5 inches wide; flap, 6.6 inches wide at top, 6.8 at bottom, 6 deep. Tin linings; two lower divisions, 2 inches deep, 2.9 inches long, 1.2 wide; five upper divisions, 1.2 inch wide by 1.15 inch long, and 1.5 inch deep, to contain forty cartridges, those below in bundles of water-proof paper.

256. CONE-PICK of steel wire, No. 18, 1.5 inch long, with a ring-handle 0.5 inch in diameter; it is carried, with the cone-key, in the pocket in front of the musket cartridge-box.

257. BAYONET SCABBARD--black bridle leather--length, 19.3 inches. Frog--buff leather--sewed to a socket of black leather, which is fastened to the top of the scabbard; the loop of the frog to be made wide enough to slide on the waist-belt.

MARKING SMALL ARMS.

258. It is directed that hereafter all small arms, when passed by the Inspector, be stamped in the following manner:

MUSKETS, CARBINES, AND PISTOLS.

On the top of the barrel, near the breech, with an anchor; and, on the lock-plate, the letter P over the initials of the Inspector, thus: P./A.B.

REVOLVERS.

On the top of the barrel, near the cylinder, with an anchor; and, on the face of the cylinder, the letter P over the initials of the Inspector, as above.

CUTLASSES.

On the blade, immediately below the guard, with an anchor; and the letter P over the initials of the Inspector, as above.

All arms in store or returned from ships will be stamped with the anchor before being issued.

The Bureau will furnish to each Inspector two sizes of stamps. MUSKETS, CARBINES, and CUTLASSES are to be marked with the larger, .15-in., and PISTOLS and REVOLVERS with the smaller, 0.1-in., size of stamps.

PRESERVATION OF SMALL ARMS.

259. The Captain will take care that the Small Arms are carefully cleaned and wiped dry after every exercise or use of them, before they are put away.

260. He will cause them to be frequently examined at other times, to prevent their being clogged with oil or lacquer, and to be sure that they are always ready for use.

He will strictly prohibit their being marked or otherwise defaced.

261. It is directed that the men who use them be taught to clean them properly, and to remedy any slight defects or obstructions to their use.

Chests not lined preserve them best, if there be no proper armory.

DIRECTIONS FOR CLEANING ARMS.

262. In taking apart and cleaning guns, there are required a screw-driver, wiper, wire-tumbler punch, and a spring vice. No other implements should be used in taking arms apart, or in setting them up.

263. DISMOUNTING AND CLEANING.--The rifle-musket should be dismounted in the following order, viz.:

1st. Unfix the bayonet. 2d. Insert the tompion. 3d. Draw the ramrod. 4th. Turn out the tang-screw. 5th. Take off the lock; to do this, put the hammer at half-cock, and partially unscrew the side screws; then, with a slight tap on the head of each screw with a wooden instrument, loosen the lock from its bed in the stock; turn out the side screws, and remove the lock with the left hand. 6th. Remove the side screws without disturbing the washers. 7th. Take off the bands in order, commencing with the uppermost. 8th. Take out the barrel; in doing this, turn the musket horizontally, with the barrel downward, holding it loosely, with the left hand below the rear sight and the right hand grasping the stock by the handle; tap the muzzle on the ground, if necessary, to loosen the breech. If an attempt were made to pull the barrel out by the muzzle, it would, in case it were wood-bound, be liable to split at the head of the stock.

The foregoing parts of the rifle-musket are all that should usually be taken off or dismounted.

The breech-screw should be taken out only by an armorer, and never in ordinary cleaning. The mountings, cone and cone-seat screw, should not be taken off, nor should the lock be taken apart, except by permission of an officer.

264. TO CLEAN THE BARREL.--1st. Stop the vent with a peg of soft wood, or piece of rag or soft leather pressed down by the hammer; pour a gill of water, warm, if it can be had, into the muzzle; let it stand a short time to soften the deposit of powder; put a plug of soft wood into the muzzle and shake the water up and down the barrel; pour it out and repeat the washing until the water comes out clear; remove the peg from the cone and stand the barrel muzzle downward, to drain, for a few moments.

2d. Screw the wiper on the end of the ramrod, and put a piece of dry cloth or tow round it sufficient to prevent it from chafing the grooves of the barrel; wipe the barrel dry, changing the cloth two or three times.

3d. Do not put oil into the vent, as it will clog the passage and cause the first cap to miss fire; but, with a slightly oiled rag on the wiper, rub the bore of the barrel and the face of the breech-screw, and immediately insert the tompion into the muzzle.

4th. To clean the exterior of the barrel, lay it flat on a bench or board, to avoid bending it. The practice of supporting the barrel at each end, and rubbing it with a strap, buffstick, ramrod, or any other instrument to burnish it, is pernicious, and should be strictly forbidden.

5th. After firing, the barrel should always be washed as soon as practicable; when the water comes off clear, wipe the barrel dry and pass into it an oiled rag. Fine flour of emery cloth is the best article to clean the exterior of the barrel.

265. TO CLEAN THE LOCK.--Wipe every part with a moist rag, and then a dry one; if any part of the interior shows rust, put a drop of oil on the point or end of a piece of soft wood dipped into flour of emery; rub out the rust and wipe the surface dry; then rub every part with a slightly oiled rag.

266. TO CLEAN THE MOUNTINGS.--For iron and steel parts, use fine emery moistened with oil, or emery cloth. For brass parts, use rotten-stone moistened with vinegar or water, applied with a rag, brush, or stick; oil or grease should be avoided. The dirt may be removed from the screw-holes by screwing a piece of soft wood into them. Wipe all parts with a linen rag, and leave the parts slightly oiled.

267. DISMOUNTING BY AN ARMORER.--The parts which are specially assigned to be dismounted by an experienced armorer will be stated in their regular order, following No. 8, viz.:

9th. Unscrew cone. 10th. Take out cone-seat screw, 11th. Take out band-springs, using a wire punch. 12th. Take out the guard-screws. Be careful that the screw-driver does not slip and mar the stock. 13th. Remove the guard without injuring the wood at either end of the plate. 14th. Remove the side screw-washers with a drift-punch. 15th. Remove the butt-plate. 16th. Remove the rear-sight. 17th. Turn out the breech-screw by means of a "breech screw-wrench" suited to the tenon of the screw. No other wrench should ever be used for this purpose, and the barrel should be held in clamps neatly fitting the breech.

268. LOCK.--To take the lock apart: 1st. Cock the piece and apply the spring-piece to the mainspring; give the thumb-screw a turn sufficient to liberate the spring from the swivel and mainspring notch; remove the spring. 2d. The sear-spring screw. 3d. The sear-screw and sear. 4th. The bridle-screw and bridle. 5th. The tumbler-screw. 6th. The tumbler. This is driven out with a punch inserted in the screw-hole, which at the same time liberates the hammer. 7th. Detach the mainspring swivel from the tumbler with a drift-punch. 8th. Take out the feed-finger and spring. 9th. The catch-spring and screw.

269. As a general rule, all parts of the musket are assembled in the inverse order in which they are dismounted. Before replacing screws, oil them slightly with good sperm oil, as inferior oil is converted into a gum, which clogs the operation of the parts. Screws should not be turned in so hard as to make the parts bind. When a lock has, from any cause, become gummed with oil and dirt, it may be cleaned by boiling in soap-suds, or in pearlash or soda-water; heat should never be applied in any other way.

270. PRECAUTIONS IN USING.--In ordering arms on parade, let the butt be brought gently to the ground, especially if the ground be hard. This will save the mechanism of the lock from shocks, which are very injurious to it, and which tend to loosen and mar the screws and split the wood-work.

The ramrod should not be sprung with unnecessary force, for fear of injuring the corners of the grooves; and, in stacking arms, care should be taken not to injure the bayonets by forcibly straining the edges against each other.

No cutting, marking, or scraping the wood or iron should be allowed, and no part of the gun should be touched with a file. Take every possible care to prevent water from getting between the lock, or barrel and stock. If any should get there, dismount the gun as soon as possible, clean and oil the parts as directed, and see that they are perfectly dry before assembling them.

PAINTS AND LACQUERS.

COMPOSITION AND PREPARATION.

271. The proportions are given for 100 parts by weight of prepared colors, when not otherwise designated.

A gallon of linseed oil weighs 7.5 lbs.
A gallon of spirits of turpentine 7.25 lbs.
A gallon of Japan varnish 7. lbs.
A gallon of sperm oil 7.12 lbs.
A gallon of neatsfoot oil 7.63 lbs.

PAINTS AND LACQUERS.

_Boiled oil._

Raw linseed 103. lbs.
Copperas 3.15 lbs.
Litharge 6.3 lbs.

_Dryings._

Mixture of copperas and litharge
taken from the boiled oil 60 lbs.
Spirits turpentine 56 lbs.
Boiled oil 2 lbs.

_Putty_ (for filling cracks in wood).

Spanish whiting, pulverized 81.6 lbs.
Boiled oil 20.4 lbs.

Another kind of putty, for the same purpose, is made by mixing fine sifted oak sawdust with linseed oil which has been boiled till glutinous.

_White paint._

PROPORTIONS.
For inside work. For outside work.
White-lead, ground in oil 80. lbs. 80 lbs.
Boiled oil 14.5 lbs. 9 lbs.
Raw oil 0. lbs. 9 lbs.
Spirits turpentine 8. lbs. 4 lbs.

Grind the white-lead in the oil, and add the spirits of turpentine. New wood-work requires about 1 lb. to the square yard for three coats.

_Lead color._

White-lead, ground in oil 75. lbs.
Lampblack 1. lb.
Boiled linseed oil 23. lbs.
Litharge 0.5 lb.
Japan varnish 0.5 lb.
Spirits turpentine 2.5 lbs.

The lampblack and litharge are ground separately upon the stone, in oil, then stirred into the white-lead and oil; the turpentine and varnish are added as the paint is required for use, or when it is packed in kegs for transportation.

_Black paint._

Lampblack 28 lbs.
Litharge 1 lb.
Japan varnish 1 lb.
Linseed oil, boiled 73 lbs.
Spirits turpentine 1 lb.

Grind the lampblack in oil; mix it with the oil, then grind the litharge in oil and add it, stirring it well into the mixture. The varnish and turpentine are added last.

This paint is used for the iron-work of carriages.

_Paint for tarpaulins._

A square yard takes 2 lbs. for three coats.

1. Olive.--Liquid olive color 100 lbs.
Beeswax 6 lbs.
Spirits turpentine 6 lbs.

Dissolve the beeswax in the spirits of turpentine, with a gentle heat, and mix the paint warm.

2. Add 12 ounces of beeswax to a gallon of linseed oil, and boil it two hours; prime the cloth with this mixture, and use the same in place of _boiled oil_ for mixing the paint. Give two coats of paint.

_Lacquers for iron ordnance._

1. Black-lead, pulverized 12 lbs.
Red-lead 12 lbs.
Litharge 5 lbs.
Lampblack 5 lbs.
Linseed oil 66 lbs.

Boil it gently about twenty minutes, during which time it must be constantly stirred.

2. Umber, ground 3.75 lbs.
Gum-shellac, pulverized 3.75 lbs.
Ivory-black 3.75 lbs.
Litharge 3.75 lbs.
Linseed oil 78. lbs.
Spirits turpentine 7.25 lbs.

The oil must be first boiled half an hour. The mixture is then boiled twenty-four hours, poured off from the sediment, put in jugs and corked.

3. Coal tar of good quality 2 galls.
Spirits turpentine 1 pint.

The turpentine to be added in small quantities during the application of the lacquer.

4. Anti-corrosion 40 lbs.
Grant's black, ground in oil 4 lbs.
Red-lead, as a dryer 3 lbs.
Linseed oil 4 galls.
Spirits turpentine 1 pint.

This mixture, when well stirred and incorporated, will be fit for use; but, as by long keeping in this state it becomes hard, no more should be mixed than may be required for immediate use.

Anti-Corrosion.--Slag from iron
foundries, pounded 12 lbs.
Chalk 12 lbs.
Soot, common 1 lb.

In applying lacquer, the surface of the iron must be first cleaned with a scraper and a wire brush, if necessary, and the lacquer applied hot, in two thin coats, with a paint-brush. It is best done in summer.

Old lacquer should be removed with a scraper, or by scouring, and not by heating the guns or balls, by which the metal is injured.

PLANTOU'S COMPOSITION FOR COATING IRON OR WOOD AS A PRESERVATIVE.

_First composition._

Pulverized rosin 3 lbs.
Pulverized shellac 2 oz.
Pulverized charcoal, or cannel-coal 1 lb.
Spirits turpentine 1 oz.

_Second composition._

Pulverized rosin 3 lbs.
Beeswax 4 oz.
Pulverized charcoal, or cannel-coal 1 lb.
Spirits turpentine 1 oz.

The first two articles are to be dissolved in an iron vessel over the fire; the charcoal is then added, and briskly stirred until the whole is well intermixed; after which the turpentine is added, and stirred until it is well incorporated with the other ingredients. It is not safely made on board ship.

The composition is to be applied when hot, with a brush or spatula, and smoothed over with a hot iron. The wood, or iron should be perfectly dry, and freed from rust or other loose substances.

_Lacquer for small arms, or for water-proof paper._

Beeswax 13 lbs.
Spirits turpentine 13 galls.
Boiled linseed oil 1 gall.

All the ingredients should be pure, and of the best quality. Heat them together in a copper or earthen vessel, over a gentle fire, in a water-bath, until they are well mixed.

_Lacquer for bright iron-work._

Linseed oil, boiled 80.5 lbs.
Litharge 5.5 lbs.
White-lead, ground in oil 11.25 lbs.
Rosin, pulverized 2.75 lbs.

Add the litharge to the oil, let it simmer over a slow fire for three hours; strain it, and add the rosin and white-lead; keep it gently warmed, and stir it until the rosin is dissolved. Apply it with a paint-brush.

_Varnish for scabbards, or patent leather._

For 1st and 2d coats.--
Prussian blue, in lumps 4. lbs.
Sugar-of-lead 0.7 lb.
Aquafortis 0.7 lb.
Linseed oil, boiled 70. lbs.
Spirits turpentine 24.6 lb.

The ingredients, except the turpentine, are boiled together, in an iron kettle, eight hours, when the mixture will assume a brilliant black color. When the varnish is nearly cool, stir in the turpentine. The kettle in which the varnish is made should be of a capacity to hold double the quantity of varnish to be boiled. It cannot be safely made on board ship.

_For the third or finishing coat._--COPAL VARNISH.

Gum-copal, in clear lumps 26.5 lbs.
Boiled linseed oil 42.5 lbs.
Spirits turpentine 31. lbs.

This varnish is made in a copper vessel, smallest at the top, in the form of a still.

Put the copal in the vessel, set it on a charcoal fire for one hour, in which time it will melt, and all the watery particles will evaporate. Add the oil whilst the copal is warm, but not boiling hot. When nearly cool add the turpentine, which will give it a proper consistency for use.

For 5 lbs. copal, and the proper proportions of oil and turpentine, the vessel should hold six gallons. Not safely made on board ship.

_Japan varnish._

Litharge 4 lbs.
Boiled oil 87 lbs.
Spirits turpentine 2 lbs.
Red-lead 6 lbs.
Umber 1 lb.
Gum-shellac 8 lbs.
Sugar-of-lead 2 lbs.
White vitriol 1 lb.

Japan varnish is generally purchased from the paint-sellers. It is made by boiling on a slow charcoal fire for five hours all the ingredients except the turpentine and a small portion of the oil. The latter is added as required to check the ebullition and to allay the froth which rises to the surface. It must be continually stirred with a wooden spatula. Great care is necessary to prevent it from taking fire, and therefore it cannot be safely made on board ship.

The turpentine is added after the varnish is nearly cool, and is stirred well in. The varnish must be kept in tin cans closely corked.

_Olive paste._

Yellow ochre, pulverized 68. lbs.
Lampblack 1.1 lbs.
Boiled oil 37. lbs.
Spirits turpentine 0.4 lb.

Make a thick paste with the ochre and oil in a paint-pot, and with the lampblack and oil in another. Grind them together in small portions, and keep the mixture in a tin vessel.

_Liquid olive color._

Olive paste 61.5 lbs.
Boiled oil 29.5 lbs.
Spirits turpentine 5.5 lbs.
Dryings 3.5 lbs.
Japan varnish 2. lbs.

Stirred together in a paint-pot.

_Brainard's paint._

Dissolve 10 pounds of shellac in 10 gallons of boiling water, adding 30 ounces of saleratus. Mix this solution with an equal quantity of paint prepared in the usual manner. This paint is economical and durable.

_Black stain_ (for wood-work).

Copperas 1 lb.
Nutgalls 1 lb.
Sal ammoniac 1/4 lb.
Vinegar 1 gal.

Stir it occasionally for a few hours, and it will be ready for use.

The wood must be clean and smooth, and the cracks filled with black putty, which must be allowed to dry. The stain to be applied two or three times, and left to dry for a day or two. Then it is to be rubbed with boiled oil until sufficiently polished. Until the oil is applied the color will be bluish. Scraping and staining gun-carriages, or keeping them bright, is prohibited. They should be kept well painted.

_Impression wax for vents._

Beeswax 4 parts.
Tallow 2 parts.
Charcoal, finely powdered 1 part.

Melt the beeswax and tallow, and stir in the charcoal.

_Paper parchment._

Immerse unsized paper for a few seconds in sulphuric acid, diluted with half its volume of water at about 60 deg.; wash it well in cold water, then immerse it in a weak solution of caustic ammonia, and again wash.

It absorbs water, and becomes soft and pliable like animal parchment, but is water-proof. It is not affected by boiling water, is indestructible by most acids, and is not diminished in strength by wetting. It has about 2/3 the strength of animal parchment when dry; the thinner kinds make capital tracing-paper, which takes ink readily.

_Cement for the above._

Cheese--fresh, without salt, if possible 3 parts.
Quicklime 1 part.

Wash the cheese thoroughly three or four times in boiling water, and grind the materials on a stone and muller, adding cold water until it is of the consistency of honey.

_Composition for lining the interior of rifle-shells._

Soap--common yellow, not salt-water soap 16 ounces.
Tallow 7 ounces.
Rosin 7 ounces.

The tallow should be melted first, then melt and add the rosin, and lastly the soap, bringing the mass to a heat that will make it _very_ fluid.

The shells having been first thoroughly cleaned, fill them about one-third full of the composition, roll them slowly so as to spread the mixture over the whole interior surface, and then pour off the residue. This coating should be about one-tenth (0.1) of an inch in thickness, except at the bottom of the shell, where it should be about three-quarters of an inch thick. To obtain these thicknesses, the operation of coating should be performed twice; then pour into the shell enough of the composition to produce the desired thickness at the bottom, the shell standing on its base. After the composition is perfectly cool, immerse the shell in hot water at as high a temperature as the composition will stand without "running"--about 170 degrees. This second heating of the composition in the bath toughens it, and causes it to adhere more closely to the shell.

APPENDIX.

A. ALLOWANCE TABLE OF CREWS.

B. TABLES OF GUNNERY PRACTICE.

C. FORMS OF REPORTS OF INSPECTION AND OF TARGET PRACTICE.

D. TABLES OF ALLOWANCES OF ORDNANCE STORES.