Chapter VI: Part 6

The extreme tenderness and delicacy of the Puff-ball thus cooked resembles a soufflé, and suggests many possibilities of appetizing variations and combinations, as, for example, with jelly, in the form of an entremet or dessert. By many the flavor of the Puff-ball has been compared to "sweetbread," and doubtless so cooked and served would afford an agreeable variation in the menu. Indeed, it may be prepared in a variety of ways, as suggested for other species, but from its peculiar consistency is particularly adapted to frying in the pan. With chopped ham or thinly sliced smoked beef it might furnish a good substitute for the ham-omelette or frizzled beef.

Another addition to our entremets might be availed of in the "jelly mushroom," Hydnum, or _Tremelodon gelatinosum_, which is not described in this volume. It is eaten raw, either plain or with milk and sugar, and is said to be of most delicate flavor.

31 =Mushroom Salad=

According to Cooke, the Beefsteak mushroom before mentioned is employed as an entremet in Vienna, the fresh fungus being cut in thin slices and eaten as a salad. The fresh, crisp young Russula mushrooms thus served also furnish a very appetizing relish, with the usual varieties of dressing as in the various sauces, mayonnaise, French dressing, etc. The _Polyporus sulphureus_ having been boiled and allowed to cool might furnish a deceptive "chicken" salad. Doubtless other species of mushrooms--Clavaria, for example--would lend themselves acceptably to this method of serving. Cordier recommends this latter species as "appetizing even when raw."

32 =Pickled Mushrooms=

Select the mushrooms in the round-button condition and before expansion; immerse them in cold water for a few moments, then drain them; cut off the stalks, and gently rub off the outer skin with a moist flannel dipped in salt; boil the vinegar, adding to each quart two ounces of salt, half a nutmeg grated, a dram of mace, and an ounce of white pepper-corns; put the mushrooms into the vinegar for ten minutes over the fire; then pour the whole into small jars, taking care that the spices are equally divided; let them stand a day, then cover them.

33 =Mushroom Catsup=

Large quantities of mushrooms of various species are annually consumed in Europe in the manufacture of catsup. Following is one of the many favorite foreign recipes:

Place the Agarics, of as large a size as you can procure, layer by layer in a deep pan; sprinkle each layer with a little salt; the next day stir them well several times, so as to mash and extract their juice; on the third day strain off the liquor, measure and boil for ten minutes, and then to every pint of liquor add half an ounce of black pepper, a quarter of an ounce of bruised ginger-root, a blade of mace, a clove or two, and a teaspoonful of mustard-seed; boil again for half an hour, put in two or three bay-leaves, and set aside until quite cold; pass through a strainer, and bottle; cork well and dip the ends of the bottle in melted resin or beeswax; a very little Chili vinegar is an improvement, and some add a glass of port-wine or of ale to every bottle. Care should be taken that the spice is not so abundant as to overpower the true flavor of the mushrooms.

34 =Dried Mushrooms=

It will often happen in a normal fungus season that the production will exceed the possibility of consumption, and thousands of pounds of delicious mushrooms will thus be left to decay in their haunts.

The process of drying mushrooms for winter use is in most extensive practice by the peasantry of Europe and Britain, who thus find an all-the-year-round dependence upon mushroom diet.

With most species this process of desiccation is so simple that it is recommended, in the confident belief that, once tried, the winter mushroom will hereafter afford a frequent relish upon many a board and will well repay the slight trouble in their summer preparation.

In most of the Agarics--notably the Campestris, Procerus, Champignon, Russula, Chantarelle--simply threading on strings and hanging in the sun and wind, or festooned above the kitchen range, will be sufficient to reduce them to complete dryness in a few hours. Indeed, some of these, such as the Procerus and Champignon, dry spontaneously in their haunts, and may be thus gathered.

In the instances of more fleshy fungi, such as the Boleti, Polyporei, and Coprinus, more rapid desiccation is necessary. By exposing them in the sun on a tin roof or absorbent paper the moisture is rapidly evaporated. They might also be suspended above the kitchen range in a wire basket and thus quickly dried. In Boleti the drying is facilitated by the removal of the whole pore layer, which is easily separated from the cap.

The Clavaria and Morel are very simply dried, even in ordinary house temperature. Strung upon threads and suspended in the sun or near the fire they would very quickly be reduced to absolute dryness.

Mushrooms thus treated seem to retain their aroma; in Procerus, Clavaria, Morel, Helvella, and "Fairy-ring" being intensified above that of their moist condition and most appetizing.

The desiccated specimens should be kept in a dry place, with good circulation of air, or enclosed in hermetically sealed tin boxes; in the latter case being occasionally examined to insure against mould by possible absorption of moisture.

When desired for use they are simply soaked in tepid water, which, by gradual absorption, causes the specimens occasionally to assume almost their original dimensions and juicy character, when they should be treated as recommended for the fresh mushrooms.

* * * * *

For the benefit of the vegetarian, or the curiously or experimentally inclined, I append a few suggestions apropos of a _menu à la mode_, in which the fungus might be employed with good effect as a rival to the familiar established prandial delights. Each selection is numbered with reference to its particular descriptive or suggestive paragraph in the preceding pages of the chapter.

A feast based upon these recommendations, re-enforced with appropriate adjuncts--the "mother"-born vinegar, the fungus-leavened loaf, the fungus-foaming beaker--might cumulatively prove a persuasive plea for the creed of vegetarianism.

Menu

Potages
Consommé de bœuf clair, 22
Potage à la purée d'huîtres, 1, 11, 13
Potage à la purée de bœuf, 22
Potage à la purée de volaille, 24

Poissons
Côtelettes de poisson--Sauce
aux champignons, 13
Escalope de poisson, 13

Hors-d'oeuvres
Croquettes de ris de veau, 24
Bouchées au poulet, 24

Relevée
Filet de bœuf aux champignons, 22, 23

Entrées
Omelette aux jambon, 30
Rognons d'agneau, 11
Pâté de biftecks, 22
Beignettes d'huîtres, 13, 23
Huîtres en curry, 23
Petits vols-au-vent d'huîtres
ou bouchées d'huîtres, 13, 23
Fricassée de poulet, 24

Entremets
Salad de Russula au mayonnaise, 31
Salad de Fistulina, 31
Salad de Clavaria, 31
Salad de volaille, 31

Dessert
Omelette soufflé au gelée, 30
Pouding soufflé, 30
Gelée de Hydnum, 30

_Bibliography_

AMERICAN

1. _Geological and Natural History Survey of North Carolina._ Part III. Botany. Containing a catalogue of the indigenous and naturalized plants of the State. By Rev. M. A. Curtis, D.D., etc. Raleigh, 1867. (Out of print.)

2. _Mushrooms of America._ Edible and Poisonous. Edited by Julius A. Palmer, Jr. Numerous colored plates. Published by L. Prang & Co., Boston, 1885.

3. _About Mushrooms._ A Guide to the Study of Esculent and Poisonous Fungi. A collection of various articles upon the subject. By Julius A. Palmer. Lee & Shepard, Boston, 1894.

4. _Boleti of the United States._ A catalogue containing full descriptions of one hundred and eight species. (No illustrations.) By Professor Charles H. Peck, State Botanist, State Hall, Albany, N. Y. Annual Report of the State Botanist issued by the Board of Regents, Albany University.

Professor Peck has also published a series of papers on "Edible Mushrooms" in _The Country Gentleman_, of Albany, N. Y. A new work from him on this subject is in preparation.

5. _Pacific Coast Fungi._ By Dr. H. W. Harkness and Justin P. Moore. 1880. A catalogue.

6. _The Deadly and Minor Poisons of Mushrooms._ By Charles McIlvaine. Reprint from the _Therapeutic Gazette_. George S. Davis, Detroit, Mich. Quoted in present volume. Captain McIlvaine is also the author of several popular articles on the subject of esculent mushrooms which have appeared in various journals and magazines.

7. _Fungi Caroliniani Exsiccati._ Five Fasciculi, one hundred specimens in each. By H. W. Ravenel, of Aiken, S. C. John Russell, Charleston.

8. _Bulletins of United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C._ By Thomas M. Taylor, Chief of the Division of Microscopy. Washington, D. C., 1893-94. Five issues, with many colored plates of various specimens, both edible and poisonous; also full directions for cultivation of the common mushroom.

9. _Notes for Mushroom Eaters._ By W. G. Farlow. Pamphlet. Illustrated. Garden & Forest Publishing Co., New York.

ENGLISH

10. _Illustrations of British Mycology._ (Hand-painted.) By Mrs. T. J. Hussey. Reeve Brothers, London, 1847. An admirable work, the pioneer treatise in Great Britain; rare; reference copies only in prominent libraries.

11. _Esculent Funguses of England._ By Rev. Dr. C. D. Badham. With twenty colored plates. 8vo. L. Reeve & Co., London. 1870.

12. _A Plain and Easy Account of the British Fungi_; with Descriptions of the Esculent and Poisonous Species, Details of the Principles of Scientific Classification, and a Tabular Arrangement of Orders and Genera. By M. C. Cooke, M.A., LL.D. With twenty-four colored plates. R. Hardwick, Piccadilly, London, 1871. An excellent, inexpensive, and popular hand-book.

13. _Outlines of British Fungology._ Containing Characters of above a Thousand Species of Fungi, and a Complete List of all that have been described as Natives of the British Isles. By Rev. M. J. Berkeley, M.A., F.L.S. Lovell Reeve, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, London, 1860. Beautifully illustrated with twenty-four lithographic hand-colored plates by W. Fitch, each plate presenting several species, and including a number of the esculent.

14. _Mushrooms and Toadstools_: How to Distinguish Easily the Differences between Edible and Poisonous Fungi. With two large sheets containing figures of twenty-nine edible and thirty-one poisonous species drawn the natural size, and colored from living specimens. By Worthington T. Smith, F.L.S. 2d edition, R. Hardwick, 192 Piccadilly, London, 1875.

15. _A Selection of the Eatable Funguses of Great Britain._ Edited by Robert Hogg, LL.D., and Geo. W. Johnson, F.R.H.S. Numerous excellent hand-colored plates.

16. _Fungi: Their Nature and Uses._ By M. C. Cooke, M.A., LL.D.; edited by the Rev. M. J. Berkeley, M.A., F.L.S. In "International Scientific Series." D. Appleton & Co., N. Y. A very full and condensed epitome of the science of fungology.

17. _Hand-book of British Fungi._ By M. C. Cooke. 2 vols. Macmillan & Co., London, 1871.

18. _Illustrations of British Fungi._ Atlas to accompany above. By M. C. Cooke. Williams & Norgate, London, 1889.

19. _Scottish Cryptogamic Flora._ 6 vols. By R. R. Greville, 1823.

20. _Fungi-hunters' Guide._ By William D. Hay. Swan Sonnenschein, Lowrey & Co., London, 1887.

21. _Elementary Text-book._ By William D. Hay. Swan Sonnenschein, Lowrey & Co., London, 1887.

22. _British Fungi._ By John Stevenson. William Blackwood & Sons, London, 1886.

23. _Mushroom Culture._ By W. Robinson. F. Warne & Co., London, 1870. Containing full directions for the cultivation of mushrooms; also an extended chapter upon common wild species. Illustrated with wood-cuts, numerous recipes, etc.

FRENCH

24. _Plantes Usuelles._ Par Joseph Roches. Vol. IV., containing the Edible and Poisonous Fungi: also his Histoire des Champignons Comestibles et Téné-neux. Elegantly illustrated. Paris, 1838.

25. _Les Champignons_: Histoire, Description, Culture, Usages des Espèces Comestibles, Vénéneuses, Suspectes, etc. Par F. S. Cordier. With sixty chromo-lithographs. 4th edition. Paris, 1876.

26. _Histoire Naturelle des Champignons._ By G. Sicard. C. H. Delagrave, Paris, 1883. Numerous colored plates. Rare. Copy in Astor Library, N. Y.

27. _Botanique Cryptogamique, ou Histoire des Familles Naturelles des Plantes Inférieures._ Par J. Payer, Docteur ès Sciences, etc. With 1105 engravings on wood. Victor Masson, Paris, 1850.

28. _Des Champignons._ (Orfila Prize Essay.) By Emile Boudier. J. B. Ballière, Paris, 1866.

29. _Champignons._ By L. M. Gautier. J. B. Ballière et Fils. Paris, 1884.

30. _Figures Peintes de Champignons._ By Captain L. Lucand. Friedlander & Son, Berlin, 1882. (Reference copy at Massachusetts Horticultural Society.)

31. _Les Champignons._ By J. Moyen. J. Rothschild, Paris, 1889.

32. _Nouvelle Flore._ By J. Constantin and Leon Dufour. Paul Dupont, Paris, 1891.

INDEX

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS, 40.

_Agaricaceæ_, order of the, 77.

_Agaricini_, 75-178;
botanical characters of, 79.

Agarics, edible, 80-178;
Curtis's list of, 9-12.

_Agaricus_, 43, 44;
vegetation of, 44-47, 85-92, 107;
botanical characters of, 77-79, 283.

_Agaricus_, species of:
---- _Amanita_, see Amanita;
---- _arvensis_, 85, 91;
epicurean opinions of, 94;
---- _campestris_,9, 13, 21, 24, 80-95, 307, 308, 321;
the "Mushroom," 16-22;
variations in, 89-93;
spore-print of, 283;
---- _candicans_, 86;
---- _euosmus_, 147;
---- _fusipes_, 299;
---- _gambosus_, 95-101;
to cook, 313;
---- _heterophylla_, see Russula;
---- _Marasmius oreades_, 101-108;
---- _melleus_, 10, 28;
---- _orcella_, 300;
---- _ostreatus_, 10, 26, 141-148, 303, 307;
---- _pratensis_, 91;
---- _procerus_, 10, 86, 87, 113-119, 312, 321;
---- _ruber_, 300;
---- _ulmarius_, 10, 26, 27, 148-154, 303, 312;
---- _vaporarius_, 91;
---- _villaticus_, 91;
---- _virescens_, 300.
See, also, Russula, Coprinus, Lactarius, Chantarelle, and Marasmius.

Agrippina, victim of Amanita, 59.

_Amanita_, genus of, readily identified, 2, 23, 74, 273.

---- Botanical characters of, 29, 33, 41-51, 79, 273.

---- The cup or volva in, 29, 33, 47, 48, 57, 74, 273.

---- Vegetation and development of, 44, 45, 74;
the veil or shroud of, 48.

---- Fatalities from eating, 2, 15, 29, 60;
a dangerous enemy, 15, 23, 29;
"silver test" upon, 26;
effect of salt and heat upon, 29.

---- Poison of, 48, 60;
chemical nature of poison of, 48, 61;
Czar Alexis, 52;
Agrippina, 59;
intoxication from, 59, 60;
dipsomaniacs, 59, 60;
isolation of poison of, 61;
absorption of poison of, by contact and odor, 30, 69;
diagnosis and treatment of poison of, 38, 39;
antidote for poison of, 61-68;
report of a case of poisoning by, 63-66;
poison of, extracted by vinegar, 71.

_Amanita_, Poisonous species of:
---- _vernus_, 17, 25, 51;
---- _muscarius_, 51, 73;
spore-print of, 289, 291;
---- _phalloides_, 51, 74.

---- Edible species of, 73;
_Cæsarea_, _rubescens_, _strobiliformis_, 9, 12, 48.

Amanitine, 60; antidote, 62.

Alexis, Czar, victim of Amanita, 52.

America and Europe, comparative appreciation of fungi in, 299.

American and European fungi identical, 12.

American mycophagists, 8, 9, 15.

Antidotes for mushroom poisoning, 62, 67, 68.

Ants attacked by fungi, 295.

_Asci_ in fungi, 256.

_Ascomycetes_, 256.

Asiatic Russia, Amanita dipsomaniacs of, 59.

Bacterium bacillus, 7, 8.

Badham, Dr. C. D., quoted, xii., 12, 13, 40, 177, 189, 237, 246,
299, 301, 306, 310, 316. Bibliography, No. 11, 326.

Baked mushrooms, 311-313.

Basket for gathering mushrooms, 36.

"Beefsteak" mushroom, 11, 27, 213-217, 303;
to cook, 314;
as salad, 319.

Bees and wasps, 36.

Beetles infesting fungi, 37.

Belladonna. See Atropine.

Berkeley, Rev. M. J., variations in Campestris, 40, 91;
quoted, 107, 237, 246, 294, 301. Bibliography, Nos. 13 and 16, 326.

Bibliography--
American, 325;
English, 326;
French, 327.

Bitter Boletus, 208.

Blights, 7.

Blue mould, 78.

Blue-stain Boleti, 196.

_Boleti_, 182-213;
botanical characters of, 181-184, 285;
hawk fed upon, 302;
fritters of, 314;
soup of, 314;
to dry, 321.

_Boletus_, characters of, 182;
various edible, 10, 26, 182-213;
spore-print of, 285.

_Boletus_,
---- _alveolatus_, 183, 201, 208;
---- _castaneus_, 10;
---- _chrysenteron_, 195-201;
---- _collinitus_, 10;
---- _cyanescens_, 201, 207;
cone-like, 202;
---- _edulis_, 10, 13, 16, 18, 189, 190, 300;
artificial cultivation of, 86;
crimson, 213;
---- _elegans_, 10;
---- _felleus_, 207, 208-213;
---- _flavidus_, 10;
---- _granulatus_, 10;
---- _luteus_, 10;
---- _satanas_, 207, 208;
---- _scaber_, 10, 191-195;
---- _subtomentosus_, 10, 26, 183, 195;
blue stain of, 196, 201, 207;
---- _strobilomyces_, 202-207;
spore-print of, 281;
---- _versipellis_, 10.

Botanical discrimination, 31, 32.

---- discrimination of Amanita. See Amanita.

Boudier, Emile. Bibliography, No. 28, 327.

_Bovista nigrescens_, 10.

---- _plumbea_, 10.

Broiled mushrooms, 308.

_Bubbola maggiore._ See Pasture Mushroom.

Bulbosine, 60.

Campestris. See Agaricus.

_Cantharellus_,
---- _cibarius_, 10, 27, 172-178, 300;
---- _aurantiacus_, 178;
to cook, 310;
drying of, 321.

Caterpillar fungi, 295.

Catsup, Mushroom, 320.

_Champignon_ "Fairy-Ring," 27, 87, 95;
to cook, 309;
dried, 321.

---- Poisonous, 108, 113.

Chantarelle. See Cantharellus.

"Chef à la mode," the, 305.

Chemical analysis of fungi, 14, 302.

Chestnut-burr fungus, 294.

Chestnut tongue. See Fistulina.

Chicken flavor in mushrooms, 303, 316.

Chinese caterpillar fungus, 296.

Cicada fungus, 295.

Classification of fungi, 77, 78.

Claudius, Emperor, poisoned, 59.

_Clavariei_, 231, 247-256.

_Clavaria_, Various, 10, 11;
_amethystina_, _fastigiata_, _flava_,
_rugosa_, _stricta_, _umbrina_, 255;
---- _botrytis_, 256;
---- _formosa_, 247;
to cook, 317;
used as salad, 319;
to dry, 322.

Club fungi. See Clavaria.

_Cogomelos._ See Pasture Mushroom.

Colored plates of the book, 39.

_Coniomycetes_, 78.

Consommé from mushrooms, 315.

Cooke, Rev. Dr. M. C., 40, 59, 214, 237, 273, 295, 306, 307, 313, 315.
Bibliography, Nos. 12, 16, 17, 326; No. 18, 327.

Cooking fungi, 72, 306-322.

_Coprinus_, 87;
to dry, 321;
---- _atramentarius_, 11, 27, 28, 161, 163;
---- _comatus_, 11, 87, 154-160.

Coral fungi. See Clavaria.

Cordier, F. S., 246, 248, 306, 319. Bibliography, No. 25, 327.

Correspondents, 2-6.

_Cortinarius castaneus_, _cinnamomeus_, _violaceus_, 11.

Cosmopolitan fungi, 12.

_Coulemelle._ See Pasture Mushroom.

Crimson Boletus, 213.

_Cryptogamia_, the, 7.

Crystals on drying fungi, 227.

Culinary "treatment" of fungi, 72, 214, 304.

Cultivation of mushrooms, 85, 86. Bibliography, No. 8, 325;
No. 23, 327.

"Cup," the, in Amanita, 29, 33, 47, 48, 57, 74, 273.

Currie, Dr., on Amanita poison, 60.

Curtis, Rev. M. A., pioneer American mycophagist, 9, 32, 40.

Curtis's, Rev. M. A., list of edible mushrooms, 9-12;
quoted, 219, 245, 301, 318. Bibliography, No. 1, 325.

_Cystidium_, the, 77, 256.

Deadly mushrooms and toadstools, 2, 3, 43-74.

Deaths by fungi, 43, 61.

Decaying fungi, 6, 25, 30, 278.

Delagrave, C. H. Bibliography, No. 26, 327.

Desiccation of fungi, 107, 119, 246, 262, 321.

Diagnosis and treatment of mushroom poisoning, 38, 63-68.

Doe-skin mushroom. See _Hydnum repandum_.

Dried fungi. See Desiccation of fungi.

Dufour, J. Constantin and Leon. Bibliography, No. 32, 327.

Dust-like fungi, 78.

Economic fungology, 7, 13, 14.

Edible Amanitæ, 9, 12, 73.

Edible mushrooms, number of species, 2, 7, 32, 60;
list of, by Curtis, 9-12;
popular tests for identification, 22, 23;
become poisonous from contact with Amanita, 70.

Elm mushroom, 10, 26, 27, 148-154, 303, 312.

_Elvellacei_, 231. See Helvella.

Emetic mushroom. See Russula.

Epicurean perversity, 72.

European and American fungi identical, 12.

European mycologists, 14, 326, 327.

Fairy-ring mushroom, 95, 101-108;
cause of "ring," 102, 107;
recipes for cooking, 107, 108;
false or poisonous, 108, 113.

False Champignon, 108.

Farlow, W. G. Bibliography, No. 9, 326.

"Fish mushroom," 154, 303, 312.

_Fistulina hepatica_, 11, 26, 27, 213, 299, 303;
to cook, 314;
as salad, 319.

Fly, Fungus attacking, 295.

Fly-poison, Amanita, 27, 51, 52, 72.
See _Amanita muscarius_.

Food, Fungi as, 8, 13-15, 35, 221, 245, 299-323.

"Foxfire," 227.

France, Fungus-eaters of, 14.

Fried mushrooms, 313-318.

Fries, Fungologist, 268.

Fritters of fungi, 314, 318.

_Fungi._ See, also, Toadstools, Mushrooms, and Moulds.

---- by mail, 4, 5.

---- Chemical constituents of, 14, 302.

---- Classification of, 77, 78.

---- Common tests for "Edible," and their reputation, 17-21, 24-29.

---- Coral. See Clavaria.

---- Crystals on, 227.

---- Cultivation of, 85, 88. Bibliography, No. 8, 325; No. 23, 327.

---- Desiccation of, 119, 246, 262, 301, 310, 321.

---- Economic, 7, 13.

---- Edible. See Agaricus Boletus, Clavarei, Fistulina,
Helvella, Morel, Mushroom, and Puff-balls.

---- Fastidiousness in vegetation, 86-88, 294.

---- Gill-bearing (Agarics), 78, 178.

---- Hawk fed upon, 302.

---- Hygrometric properties of, 119.

---- Insects infesting, 25, 29, 34, 36-38, 135.

---- List of works on, 325.

---- Medical, 277.

---- Menu for fungus repast, 323.

---- Miscellaneous, 231-274.

---- Mycelium, or spawn, of, 44, 45, 77, 85, 88, 92, 107.

---- Number of species of, 6, 30, 60.

---- on caterpillars and chrysalids, 295.

---- on chestnut-burr, 294.

---- on house-fly, 295.

---- opposed to cultivation, 86-88.

---- Ornamental forms of, 227.

---- Phosphorescent, 227.

---- Physiological features of, 15.

---- Poisoning by, 2, 15, 29;
diagnosis and treatment, 37;
remedies, 38, 39;
intoxication from, 59;
antidotes, 62, 67, 68;
report of poisoning case, 63-66;
poisoning by contact and odor, 69;
edible species inoculated by contact, 70.

---- Popular distrust of, 15, 21.

---- Rapid decay of, 6, 25, 30.

---- Raw, eaten as salad, 248, 319.

---- Recipes for cooking, 306-319.

---- simulating animal food, 15, 30, 302.

---- Spores and Spore-print of, 277-296.

---- Study of, 7.

---- traditions and superstitions, 22, 23.

---- Vegetation of, 44, 47, 85-92, 107, 294.

---- Whims of habitat of, 294.

Fungologists, Amateur, safe rules for, 33.

Fungus food in Europe and America, 8, 13-15, 35, 299.

---- gnats, flies, and beetles, 37.

Gasteromycetes, 78.

Gathering mushrooms, Rules for, 35, 36.

Gautier, Dr. M. L., 62. Bibliography, No. 29, 327.

Germany, Fungus-eaters in, 14.

Gill-bearing mushrooms, 75-178.

Gnats infesting fungi, 37.

Greville, R. R. Bibliography, No. 19, 327.

"Grubs" in fungi, 25, 29, 34, 36-38, 135.

Harkness, Dr. H. W., 32, 245, 310. Bibliography, No. 5, 325.

Hawk fed upon Boleti, 302.

Hawthorne, Nathaniel, allusion to fungus phosphorescence, 228.

Hay, William D. Bibliography, Nos. 20, 21, 327.

Heat destroys poison, 29, 72.

Hedgehog mushroom. See Hydnum.

_Helvella crispa_, 11, 231, 261, 262;
other species, 11;
recipes for cooking, 262, 316;
to dry, 322.

Historical fungi, 43, 59, 60.

Hogg, Robert, LL.D. Bibliography, No. 15, 326.

Horse mushroom. See _Agaricus arvensis_.

House-fly fungus, 295.

Hungarian soup of Boleti, 314.

Hussey, Mrs. T. J., 40, 306, 310, 311, 315, 318.
Bibliography, No. 10, 326.

_Hydnei_, 231-247;
to cook, 310.

_Hydnum_, 300, 307;
---- _caput-medusæ_, 11, 27, 238-243;
---- _repandum_, 11, 28, 232-238;
---- _rufescens_, 237, 238;
---- _coralloides_, 245;
---- _gelatinosum_, 319.

---- Various edible species of, 11;
to cook, 246.

Hygrometric fungus, 119.

_Hygrophorus eburneus_ and _pratensis_, 11.

Hymenium of fungi, 78.

_Hymenomycetes_, 78.

_Hyphomycetes_, 78.

Identification of fungi, 31.

Idiosyncrasy, 30, 61.

Indigestibility of certain species, 30.

Inky mushroom, 28.
See Coprinus.

Insects attacked by fungi, 295.

---- infesting fungi, 25, 29, 34, 36, 38, 135.

Intoxication by Amanita, 59.

Introduction, 1.

Italy, Fungus-eaters of, 14, 86.

Jelly-like mushroom, 319.

Johnson, Geo. W. Bibliography, No. 15, 326.

Kamchatka, Amanita dipsomaniacs of, 59, 60.

Ketchup, Mushroom. See Catsup.

Koppe, Dr., on Amanita poison, 60.

Lactarius, Poisonous, 61.

_Lactarius_, Various edible species of, 11;
---- _deliciosus_, 28, 166-171, 300, 311;
---- _piperatus_, 28, 171;
---- _volemum_, 171.

Lambs' kidneys, Flavor of, in fungi, 300, 311.

Letters to the author, 4.

Liver mushroom. See Fistulina.

Lucand, L. Bibliography, No. 30, 327.

Luminous fungi, 227.

_Lycoperdaceæ_, 267.

_Lycoperdon._ See Puff-ball.

---- _bovista_, 11.

---- structure of, 270.

Mailing fungus specimens, 4.

_Marasmius_,
---- _scorodoneus_, 11;
---- _oreades_, 11, 101-108;
---- _urens_, 108-111;
---- _peronatus_, 109-113.

McIlvaine, Captain Charles, 32;
rule regarding edibility of fungi, 35;
diagnosis and treatment of mushroom poisoning, 39, 40, 62;
fastidiousness of fungi, 86, 184, 208. Bibliography, No. 6, 325.

Meadow Mushroom. See _Agaricus campestris_.

_Medical and Surgical Reporter_ quoted, 62.

Medusa Mushroom. See Hydnum.

Menu of mushrooms, 323.

Microbes, 7.

Microscopic fungi, 7.

Mildew, 7, 78.

Milky mushroom. See Lactarius.

Miscellaneous fungi, 231-274.

Mock oyster soup, 306.

Moore, Justin P. Bibliography, No. 5. 325.

_Moniteur Scientifique_, quotation from, 61.

_Morchella esculenta._ See Morel.

---- _caroliniana_, 12.

Morel, 12, 231, 256;
to cook, 316;
to dry, 322.

Mortality in mushroom poisoning, 43.

Moss-mushroom, 245.

"Mother," 7.

Moulds, 7, 78.

Moyen, J. Bibliography, No. 31, 327.

"Muscarine" poison, 60.

"Mushroom" and "Toadstool," 16-21.

Mushrooms. See Toadstools, Agaricus, Boletus, Polyporei,
Fistulina, and Fungi.

---- à la crème, 308.

---- à la Provençal, 308.

---- Analysis of, 289-291.

---- Baked, 311-313.

---- Basket for, 36.

---- Bibliography, No. 8, 325; No. 23, 327.

---- Broiled, 308.

---- by mail, 4.

---- catsup, 320.

---- Chemical nature of, 14, 61.

---- Chestnut-burr, 294.

---- Classification of, 77, 78.

---- Cosmopolitan types of, 12.

---- Cultivation of, 85, 86. Bibliography, No. 23, 327.

---- Drying of, for food, 119, 246, 262, 301, 310, 321.

---- Edible, 8, 13-15, 32.

---- Edible species:
plentiful supply of, 13, 35, 303;
Beefsteak, 11, 27;
Coral, see Clavaria;
Elm, 10;
"Fairy-ring," 95, 101;
False Fairy-ring, 108, 109;
Horse, 85, 91-95;
Inky, 11, 26, 28, 88;
Meadow, see _Agaricus campestris_;
Milky, see Lactarius;
Moss, 245;
Oyster, see _Agaricus ostreatus_;
Pasture, 10, 13, 113;
Russulæ, 119-141;
Spine-bearing, see Hydnum;
St. George's, 95-101.

---- Fastidiousness of most species of, 86, 294.

---- Fried, 313, 317.

---- Fritters of, 314, 317.

---- Insects infesting, 25, 29, 34, 36-38, 135.

---- Large specimens of, 92.

---- List of works on, 325.

---- Menu, 323.

---- Melting. See Coprinus.

---- Milky. See Lactarius.

---- Moss. See Hydnum.

---- Mycelium or spawn of, and vegetation of, 44, 45, 77,
85-88, 92, 107.

---- Number of edible species of, 2, 7, 9, 32, 60;
identification of, 2, 31;
Curtis's list of, 9-12;
nourishing properties of, 14;
chemical simulation of animal food by, 15, 30, 302;
popular tests for detecting, 22, 23;
refutation of same, 24-29;
desiccation of, 119, 321;
recipes for cooking, 306-322.

---- Number of general species of, 6.

---- Pickled, 319.

---- pie, 312.

---- Poisonous species of, 2, 15, 17, 43-74;
deadly species of, 2, 15, 43-74;
poison by contact with, 30, 69;
vinegar, sweet oil, and whiskey, 39;
diagnosis and treatment of poisoning, 39, 63-66;
historical poisoning by, 43, 59, 60;
fatalities from, 43, 61;
intoxication from, 59, 60;
poison discriminated, 61;
antidotes, 62, 67, 68;
report of a poisoning case, 63-66;
harmless mushrooms inoculated from poisonous, 70;
salt, vinegar, and heat, 29, 39, 71, 72.
See, also, Amanita, _Russula emetica_, Boletus,
and False Champignon.

---- Rapid decay of, 6, 25, 30.

---- Roast, 311.

---- Rules for gathering, 36, 70.

---- Rural authorities on, 16-22.

---- salad, 319.

---- soup, 306, 307, 323.

---- spawn. See Mycelium.

---- spores. See Spores and Spore-prints.

---- Stewed, 307, 308-311, 315-317.

---- tube. See Polyporei.

---- Testing new species of, for edibility, 33.

---- Whims of habitat of, 294.

_Mycetes_ fungi, 77.

Mycology and mycophagy, 3, 4, 7, 8.

---- Medical and economic, 7, 8, 13-15, 35, 277.

Mycophagists of America, 8, 9.

---- Amateur, safe rules for, 38.

Nero, 59;
poisonous mushrooms used by, 43.

Night, Fungi luminous by, 227.

Nourishing properties of mushrooms, 14.

Oak-tongue fungus. See Fistulina.

Odor of Amanita poisonous, 69.

Omelet, Mushroom, 277, 278, 318.

_Orcella_, Agaric, 300.

Oyster mushroom, 10, 26, 27, 141-148;
to cook, 303, 311, 315.

---- flavor in fungi, 237, 247, 300, 303, 307, 310, 312.

_Pachyma cocos_, 11.

Palmer, Julius A., quoted:
"Silver test," 25, 32, 40;
on Amanita poison, 61, 69-71, 184, 207;
on mushroom food, 303, 306, 311. Bibliography, Nos. 2, 3, 325.

Pasture, or parasol, mushroom, 9, 13, 80, 113.

Paulet, 306, 314.

_Paxillus involutus_, 11.

Payer, J. Bibliography, No. 27, 327.

Peck, Prof. Charles H., 32, 40, 182, 237, 246.
Bibliography, No. 4, 325.

Persoon, 306, 316.

Phosphorescence in fungi, 227.

Pickled mushrooms, 319.

Pie of mushrooms, 312, 315.

Plates of the book, 39.

Pliny on mushroom "tests," 25;
on poisonous mushrooms, 43, 59;
on edible mushrooms, 298.

Poison-cup. See Amanita.

Poison of Amanita, 43, 61;
antidote, 68;
poisoning by contact and odor, 69.

Poisoning by fungi:
Diagnosis and treatment, 38, 63, 68;
vinegar as an antidote, 38, 71;
antidote, 62, 68;
Amanita, 2, 15, 43-74;
poisonous species identified, 2, 15, 61;
popular poison "tests" refuted, 17, 21-29;
poisoning by contact, 30, 69.

Poisons, fatal and minor, 2, 15, 17, 29, 30, 61.

_Polyporei_, 78, 181-228;
to dry, 321.

_Polyporus_, various edible species of, 11;
---- _sulphureus_, 11, 219, 303;
to cook, 316;
botanical character of, 181-184, 285.

Popular discrimination between "toadstool" and "mushroom," 16-22;
popular distrust of fungi, 15.

Pore-bearing mushrooms. See Boletus, Polyporei, and Fistulina.

Procerus mushroom, 10;
pie of, 312.

Puff-ball fungi, 11, 13, 27, 78, 231, 267, 299;
_gemmatum_, 268;
_saccatum_, 268;
_giganteum_, 268, 318;
dissemination of spores of, 268, 277-280;
medical use of, 277;
as food, 277, 318;
to cook, 318.

"Punk," 37, 181.

Purée of mushrooms, 307.

Ragoût of mushrooms, 309, 316.

Ravenel, H. W. Bibliography, No. 7, 325.

Recipes for cooking fungi, 72, 306-322.

"Ring" in mushrooms, 48, 85, 95.

Robinson, W., 306, 312, 313. Bibliography, No. 23, 327.

Roques, Joseph, 237, 306, 310, 311. Bibliography, No. 24, 327.

Rove-beetles infesting fungi, 37.

Rules for the venturesome, 33.

Russia, Fungus-eaters in, 14;
fly Amanita in, 29.

_Russula_, 12, 13, 18, 26, 28;
---- _lepida_, 12, 127;
---- _alutacea_, 12, 133;
---- _virescens_, 12, 88, 120, 300;
---- _emetica_, 25, 27, 28, 61, 120, 122, 136-141;
---- _heterophylla_, 134, 300;
---- _ruber_, 300.

_Russulæ_, 119;
opposed to cultivation of, 88;
insects infesting, 135;
to bake, 311;
as salad, 319;
to dry, 321.

Rust, 7.

Rustic fungology, 18-22.

Salad of mushrooms, 319.

Salt as an antidote, 39, 72.

"Salt test" of mushrooms, 23, 29.

Scaly mushrooms. See _Amanita_, _Agaricus procerus_,
and _Boletus strobiloides_.

Schmiedeberg, Dr., on Amanita poison, 60.

"Scotch Bonnet." See _Agaricus procerus_.

"Sep." See _Boletus edulis_.

"Seven Sisters of Sleep," by Rev. Dr. M. C. Cooke, 59.

Shadle, Dr. J. E., 62.

Shaggy-mane mushrooms, 11, 13;
rustic appreciation of, 19, 27, 28.
See _Coprinus comatus_.

"Shroud" in Amanita, 48.

Silver, Discoloration of, as a "test," 23.

Smith, Worthington T., 40, 306, 307, 309, 314.
Bibliography, No. 14, 326.

Smuts, 7.

Socket in Amanita. See Volva.

Soufflé of puff-balls, 318.

_Sparassis_,
---- _crispa_, 12;
---- _luminosa_, 12.

"Spawn," or mycelium, of fungi, 44, 45, 77, 80, 85-88, 92, 107.

Specimens by mail, 5.

Spiders attacked by fungi, 295.

Spine-bearing mushrooms, 11, 27.
See Hydnum.

Spore-prints from mushrooms, 44, 277-296;
from _Amanita muscarius_, 287, 289;
from Boletus, 285, 287;
from _Agaricus campestris_, 283.

Spore surface, or hymenium, 78, 182.

Spores of fungi, 79, 87, 182, 268, 277-296;
number of, 279;
buoyancy of, 278-293;
various colors of, 287;
various forms of, 293.

_Sporidiifera_, 77, 231, 256.

_Sporifera_, 77, 78, 231, 256.

Staphylinus beetles infesting mushrooms, 37.

Stevenson, John. Bibliography, No. 22, 327.

Stew of fungi, 307, 308-311, 315-317.

St. George's mushroom, 95-101.

_Strobilomyces_, 202.

Styptic, Puff-balls used as, 277.

Sulphur mushroom, 219, 303;
to cook, 316;
as a salad, 319.

"Sweetbreads" in fungi, 300, 303.

Sweet-oil treatment for mushroom poisoning, 39.

Taylor, Thomas M. Bibliography, No. 8, 325.

Teeth-bearing mushrooms. See Hydnum.

Tertullian on toadstools, 17.

Testing new species for edibility, 33.

"Tests" or "proofs" for the detection of poisonous species, 17, 21-29.

_Therapeutic Gazette_, quotation from, 39.

Thore, Dr., quoted, 86.

Thread-like fungi, 78.

"Tinder," 37, 181.

"Toadstool" and "Mushroom," 16-21, 36;
popular discrimination of, 16-24;
popular tests for their discrimination and their refutation,
17-22, 24-29; See Mushroom, Fungi, Agaricus, Amanita,
Boletus, Polyporei, Morel, Clavaria, Helvella.

"Toadstools," 181.

"Touchwood," 37, 181.

_Tremella mesenterica_, 12.

_Tremelodon gelatinosum_, 319.

_Trichogastres_, 231.
See Puff-balls.

Tube mushrooms. See Polyporei, Boletus, and Fistulina.

Vegetarian, Menu for the, 304, 323.

Veil in mushrooms, 48, 60, 85.

Vigier, Dr., on Amanita poison, 60.

Vinegar as an antidote for mushroom poisoning, 39, 71.

Vitadini, 318.

Volva in Amanita, Importance of, in classification, 29, 33, 48, 77.

Warty mushrooms. See Amanita, Pasture Mushroom,
and _Strobylomyces_.

Wasps and bees, 36.

---- Fungus attacking, 295.

Whiskey in mushroom poisoning, 39.

Wormy specimens of fungi, 25, 30, 34, 36-38, 135.