Chapter III: Front Matter (3)

The morning of the day before the eclipse was cloudy; it began to rain in torrents in the afternoon and by night it had not improved at all, promising nothing but rain for the next day. The morning of the 18th of May dawned cloudy, but afterwards it began to improve. The clouds broke in several places, and the clear sky gradually increased in extent. Noon was the hour of totality. During totality, although the sun was still covered with thin cirrus clouds, it was yet possible to observe the corona through them. The entire programme was carried through successfully, but with little hope of getting results of value. All the astronomers stationed at or near Padang on the west coast of Sumatra met the same fate. Fort de Kock was the only place where the sky was perfectly clear, although it was pretty near the northern margin of shadow, and the chance of clear weather was the poorest. Our site was excellent for the observation of the moon’s shadow. Two or three minutes before totality we saw the darkness approaching through the air, on the sea to the N. W., and the shadow swept with great rapidity towards us; at this moment totality commenced. We also noticed that the light was approaching, from the same direction, just before totality ended. In making the exposures I was assisted by Mr. Shakushu, a Japanese priest at Singapore, who rendered most efficient service in this way. After the eclipse the development of the plates was taken up. Since the weather in camp was very hot in the daytime all the plates were developed at night, ice being used abundantly. The resulting negatives were nearly all satisfactory, which was contrary of the first expectation. Yet the effect of the clouds is clearly seen in the long exposed plates of the 5-inch telescope.

GOVERNMENT STEEL FOUNDRY

General Nakamura, the head of the Government Steel Foundry, when interviewed in Tokyo, desired to express regret at the impression given to the public that he advocates a high tariff on steel imported from other countries, for the purpose of advancing the interests of the institution which he represents, to the detriment of foreign producers and to the exclusion of necessary importations from other countries. In reply to questions he stated:--

“I do not advocate the increase of the tariff, nor has the question yet been considered by the Government. What I said was that, among the causes of the hard position in which the foundry is placed is its inability to compete with supplies from abroad. So far losses have been sustained by the foundry, but without an endeavor to place the value of the turn-out on a par with foreign imports, how long can this be done? We are endeavoring to regulate this, and possibly a more radical, or somewhat readjusted, protective policy may be beneficial.

“There are, of course, other causes for the still undeveloped manufacture of steel in Japan. The present output is insufficient for the needs of the market. Only one-third of the supply needed is made by the Government Steel Works, and even this one-third does not include what is needed for the other branches of consumption, such as machinery, hardware, etc. On the other hand, the demand for steel has considerably increased from what it was before the war, and has so very much outstripped the supply as to be a cause of anxiety to me as director of the works. The fluctuations in the price of steel, which have been considerable, have also had a serious effect upon the market. In the perfecting of the quality of the material itself, for the first time this year it underwent the inspection of Lloyds, and it was pronounced that the output was qualified as material for shipbuilding, provided it passed examination. The Government Foundry has therefore been registered at Lloyds.

“There is, as stated, great opportunity for the development of skilled labor among the operatives, and considering that iron work is so difficult, the progress made is most gratifying. Most of our instruction in steel manufacture has come from Germans, and most of our officials are graduates of the Tokyo University who have studied abroad. In the housing and care of the operatives some care is taken. Rent is free, but the accommodation is not adequate to shelter the 9,000 employes. Secondly, there is a convenient supply of food at low rates, a commissary, and in case of injury a relief fund, which provides medicine and temporary wants, and, in the case of death, looks after the widows and orphans. A society for this purpose has been formed, and its interests are one of my chief concerns. The operatives are recruited from Fukuoka prefecture and from other parts of Japan, and while not feeling that the Japanese are particularly adapted to this work, given the time and experience I am pleased with the results. The average age of the operatives is thirty, and so we have the advantage of youth and strength in our favor. The Chinese mine at Taiyeh supplies one-half of the ore used by us, and the rest of the ore is brought from different parts of Japan. Owing to the condition of transportation the price of iron is appreciably dearer than in America. Beside the material supplied to our army and navy, the remainder is sold on the open market and consumed in the usual manner in the manufacture of utensils and implements of commerce. The machinery used in our workshops is from Europe and America, wherever we find the best and most up-to-date plant.

“In conclusion I want to say that this question of duty is a serious one--an exceedingly serious one--one which entirely rests with our Government, and it is not my part to enter into the decision except to present existing conditions. It is the purpose of the Government Steel Works in time to supply the whole demand of the country. This is our ambition, and that is why we are focusing our attention at this moment upon the causes of our inadequate production and failure to make good our initial programme.”

JAPAN IN NOVEMBER

There is no time when Nature is so approachable as in autumn. That season is like the green room of the actress, when she lays aside her stage attire and in deshabille she is communicative and you gain many a secret into her methods and her ideals and aims!

Her laughter is no longer art, but natural, and she shows her foibles and her whims with a childish abandonment. Kamakura has in resume, the exquisite traits of Japanese scenery. The dominating features of the artistic and the diminutive and then the glimpse, just a glimpse of the grand. The sublime is a note I have never heard touched in Japan, except at Port Arthur.

Kamakura has also the needed accessory of a landscape, i. e., historic background. The center of ecclesiastical domination of Buddhism in the middle ages, the spot where the miracle of Nichiren was performed, that beautiful episode which is so often treated in art and which reminds us of those famous martyr dramas dear to the heart of the Christian.

Heaven has not always interceded to save the sainted, and how the heart leaps, when we read of those rare moments, when it has. Nichiren, we are told, was busy during the whole of his time in exile in “teaching, preaching, and itinerating.”

But like many a Christian saint he did not temper his zeal with discretion and was rearrested.

The story is familiar to all, but it is beautiful, and like that of Joan of Arc or Constantine or St. Martin and a host of others, will bear repeating.

“Kneeling down on the strand, the saintly bonze calmly uttered his prayers and repeated ‘Namu mio ho ren ye kio’ upon his rosary. The swordsman lifted his blade, but a light blinded his eyes, the sword was broken and the saint was saved and afterward pardoned.”

The surf was dashing in fine shape on the day we visited Kamakura and the soft grey, like the color of a faded tapestry brought to our “inner eye” the old saint and the huge blade broken, and the terror of the evil men. Japan has this touch with the supernatural which raises her in our esteem!

The first glimpse of the Buddha set in the bower of maples was not disappointing. Its vast proportions and its solemn repose fitted into the coloring of red and yellow and the curtain of Nature softly hung in folds of crimson and green, and a veil of mist harmonized the whole into an etherial essence dear to the mystic. The Buddha of Kamakura is the Prince of India, and those Hindoo lines of proud lineage, the arch of the nose and lips and eyebrows, all tell the story of his kingly degree. The hawk-like glance of the sovereigns of the kingdom of princes, is of course subdued in the religionist, but I doubt if it is extinct.

The Buddha is after all a man and the gentleman and the boor still show! We went once in Paris to the cloister where the women of the old noblesse are immured and there in spite of almost inhuman rigidity of demeanor caused by every crucifixion to mind and body “the goddess was known in her walk” still. So difficult is it to warp and contort Nature! So difficult and so futile!

“Consider the lily how it grows” is an injunction that no churchman has ever fathomed. Nor ever will! Only God did that!

It is well that Buddha sits among the maples and the cherry blossoms, for their wisdom may penetrate his bronze heart! The view from “Kwannon temple” is a rare bit of Japan.

There in the tea house we sat and drank it in, with the stimulating beverage.

The cliffs, the village, the ocean, the dainty colors, the aged aspect of it all and the stir of new life, everything toned into an autumn symphony, it only needed Chopin.

But Chopin was far away and there is no music in Japan! How curious that the fickle goddess left that out and set all the harmonies of Nature in the heart of the Philippines! The “Hachiman shrine” is a bit of Saint Marks, with its pigeons, and the avenue of ancient trees and torii which leads up are good and far less distracting than the temple approaches of the cities.

Better than all was Nature’s sanctuary where all is harmony; where no narrow sect nor vulgar stare, nor discourtesy disturbs your thought, and where one can read the word of God uninterpreted by any narrow priest, or any narrow passion, but in “Spirit and in Truth.”

The colors defy all art to reproduce them, the declining year, the memory of the rich hued summer, the pathos of something gone, the hush of stream, the absence of bird notes, the quiet, the intimate quiet of Nature, which is never oppressive, never aught but refreshing, and which leaves no scar nor wound!

The delicacy of the laying away the past and the hopefulness of it all! We would almost like too, to fade away into the ether, laying off the coarse garment of the flesh and finding what Buddha and every sage has sought!

“Some soft warm place in field, or wood,
The mother will be sure to keep,
Where we shall lay us down to sleep.”

SUNRISE OVER ASIA

I

Over the old worn world he came,
Flaunting his flames of red!
The stern walls of Asia guarding the sky,
Waited in calm, as in years gone by,
Upward he came, breathless, we said--
“Can he scale this fortress, centuries strong?”
His answer ’twas written in cohorts high!
He triumphed, night fled,
The day was begun, and Asia, she of the long, long night
Said, “Welcome, my son!”

II

So up rises the day on the days that are fled!
And Asia’s sun glows a brilliant red,
And the future resplendent of Asia will come--
Come as this sun, a splendor of life on the days that are dead!

South China Post

MANILA AND THE PHILIPPINES

Just outside of Asia proper as in a proscenium box are these islands, half mystic, half savage, like the kings who sent men out to conquer the world, with sword in one hand and hostia in the other!

No place on earth has had possibly a more romantic experience, full as it has been, of the acts of primitive unchained manhood and the infinitely worse aspects of human nature, the avarice, intrigue political and ecclesiastical eccentricities of civilization. The whole story is written in the annals of these verdant radiant slopes, not all written yet! Then on pages brilliant as some illumined missal is inscribed the devotion of the chivalrous sainthood of Spain. The dramatic element is furnished by the Chinese invasions followed by the British and our own and as you pass along these streets, the walls and towers “cry out.”

Just outside then of Hongkong, the “superb” the Genoa of the East, her prows turned to every point of the compass, her flags the colors of human statehood, of petty kingdoms and massive empires, the gateway of Asia, the Asia of the North, destined like everything Northern to outrank the South, in virility if not in subtility and charm, we of the Philippines have a glance which takes in more than a piece of the oriental horizon it embraces. The chiaro-oscuro after leaving the islands at the end of a long sejour, when as at the close of life, the colors seem to blend into one dominant tone, is a sort of soft grey, enveloping the receding city, built so far away, at so much sacrifice; over all the blemishes the cruelties and crudities of a society hardly half formed, of a state hardly above the first foundations, one’s feeling is wonder and pity, wonder that men and women have had the courage to face it at all, pity for their heroic struggle against ignorance and all the human brood of evils under a tropic sun, which dries the blood in the veins and leaves the nerves tingling to every breath and thought.

But were this all, who would have the power to live out their story here! In the phantasmagoria of this tropical nature there is something ever new, ever fresh, ever upbuilding and upraising, the forces of this universe of which we are a part. There is a measure in this Oriental dawn, like the lines of Omar Khayyam, which swings in the rhythm of the hours. Every day we feel we can, every day we do! Then in the embrace of the transcendant peace of the Oriental night, we learn to watch and wait, knowing we shall be soon with “Yesterday’s seven thousand years.”

There is something in the atmosphere, a certain occult fluid, which takes the place of ozone and strange as it may seem these sunburnt, sunscorched lands have rushing over them the gales of ardor, of desire to run the race of manhood worthily, every nerve taut, every tendon stretched.

“Time cannot change, nor fortune stale her infinite variety,” would well describe Manila.

Gathered from the four corners of the earth a motley crowd is her citizen’s roll! Embryo politicians, incipient scholars and philanthropists, altruists of curious conflicting lives and creeds, every social curiosity in the gamut, from those who never saw a ship until they reached San Francisco, who were once a cordon bleu and are now posing as grande dames, (?) to those who have given up all the beauty of some castle height in Spain, or some equally refined home in America to spend their best of life and service as a tropical gift, lavish and unstinted, without thought of return.

We also find all the comical inconsistent forms of religionists of every shade of narrowness and Pharisaism, at once gallant defenders of their faith and guilty of inhuman barbarity to their fellows, intriguing clothed with piety, just as in the old, old days, but where is “the milk of human kindness” on the other hand sweeter to the palate, sated as it must become with all else, where do you see lips quiver more tenderly over a sorrow, or eyes light more divinely at noble word, or deed!

There is something intensely human, in our city, expressed by the Spanish word “simpatica”! All the personalities are so well known, so intimately and injudiciously discussed and so ineptly criticised and then in a moment of abandonment, the praise is so real, the encomiums worthy of an Attic sage!

The heroes and favorites are after all well chosen in our city and her gratitude outlasts many a more ambitious burg! There is heart in what Manila does, often almost incoherent heart, but what is the rarest science, the most ambitious churchism, to one drop of that pure wine of goodness and enthusiasm, “pure and undefiled” like Him who went about doing good?

Slowly we are evolving a city from the middle ages to the present type of town, full of modern action and our institutions are rising from a substructure long prepared by the past.

Work along the humanities at the Catholic university of St. Tomas and by the Jesuit Fathers, at their famous school, the “Ateneo,” has prepared the way for a national university whose buildings are rising and whose instruction has already commenced.

The work of the nuns, Spanish and French and German, has been an excellent training for Filipina mothers and their family life.

They have formed whole generations of good women, whose grace and true womanhood put to the blush most of the American, or European importations, with their petty jealousies, their slanders and their utter frivolity.

Today the Filipina girl, like her sisters in every land, aspires to greater learning and the way is being opened also for them.

Still in bastion like walls within the walled city, whose ancient moat and ramparts are the pride of our town, you can see as in a vision of other more refined days, under cape of black, white and of soft outline, faces glowing with a devotion to the highest ideals, not of our time. They are like a rare vintage in crystal from the sunny slopes of Spain, or France, uplifting all women at the sight and shaming the ignoble types of today!

Spain taught her children scanty science, if you will, but if we teach these people one half the goodness she left in their souls, we may congratulate ourselves, congratulation we are not likely to be worthy of, unless there is a speedy change for the better.

Our hospitals are several of them, of the latest equipment and directed by the devotion of well instructed nurses. St. Paul’s, under the supervision of the catholics, though free to all in its beautiful catholic spirit, is perhaps the most popular institution in the city. French devotion has made it the delight of the sick and weary.

Among new hospitals are the “University,” the “Civil” and the parent of all “San Juan de Dios,” an ancient institution of splendid traditions.

“San Lazaro” for infectious diseases will some day be one of the foremost of its kind in the Orient. We need sadly a home for the aged, as our over-crowded alms house is not up to date and we ought to have other provision for our children. The “Looban convent” where a most lovely charity is dispensed by a mother superior who radiates goodness, with her choice spirits about her, needs more assistance and sympathy. The “Mary Johnson” hospital is combining a training school for nurses and the Municipal Board is encouraging in every way the training of young woman in this most necessary branch of learning. The sanitary conditions of the city are slowly being put on a par with those of other cities. A new water system just opened brings the purest of mountain liquids to our homes and down in the depths of earth a drainage up to date is being laid. We need a first class hotel large and combining the charms strangely little utilized, of our climate and delightful nature. Our present hostelries are by no manner of means to be as severely criticised as they are, as they afford quite a fair degree of European comfort. Buildings for trade, commodious and lofty and pretty private villas are going up in all parts of the city. Our water front, an unsightly mass of made land, awaits the hand of the architect to raise the state buildings, adorned with the symmetry of art to embellish our chief glory the wide, cool stretch of ground we call “Luneta” where we hope to see soon the statue of Rizal, who is the chief glory of the New National life!

A trip through the Southern islands on one of the “Smith Bell” steamers, affords entrancing pleasure and variety of experience, and the summer capital of Baguio and hot springs and sylvan sights are reached by the Manila and Dagupan Railway. We have a press which has talent but is handicapped by a narrow and very false idea of conservatism and there is a disposition to restrict its freedom, which is a sign of weakness if not of culpability. Great states and great people are not afraid of criticism nor even slander. Innocence is subjected to both, here as elsewhere, and the most innocent the most subjected here as elsewhere.

Who, but loves this people who has lived among them, not expecting perfection, nor a degree of disinterestedness which we do not as a Nation possess nor as individuals illustrate?

The Filipino has qualities which the longer you know him, commands your respect and sympathy and his imperfections are no more disagreeable than those of more highly developed peoples.

She wants freedom, this great, beautiful land, and some day it will be hers. The day she has it depends largely on herself and on those men and women of ideals and of ideal lives, whether Spaniards, Americans, or her own who march with the uncrowned monarchs of the race, not towards the spoils, but the toils of each day, head high, hearts light, because pure from greed and remorse.

A free people not in name but in reality.

We have Clubs galore, English, German, French, Spanish, Filipino, the “University Club” and the “Columbia,” this last especially for young men. These clubs would compare favorably with those of other cities of our size.

Politically the islands have taken strides since the opening of the “Philippine Assembly,” a body of men which has done credit to itself already. The future of the islands, its prosperity lies along two lines, mainly education and the agricultural development. Many rich Filipinos are sending their sons to the States to be equipped for the modern struggle, in both.

Our Judiciary is highly praiseworthy, our Supreme Court we are very proud of.

The “Philippine Commission” has had men of considerable talent, men of opportunity and availableness and its rule has not we believe been stained with any greater faults, or crimes, than that of most governing bodies. And it has been distinguished by much work well done.

Some witty foreigner has said:

“America is rather old to give as an excuse for her blundering that she is young,” behind that sarcasm as behind all there is just a stinging grain of truth. Our blunders as our self-assurance, the latter very largely responsible for the former are often as amusing as instructive to lookers-on of older civilizations, especially to those of the East, who like the grandmother with the small boy, are startled and perplexed at all the fancied improvements, she having spelt out that wonderous word “life” which is the most bewildering in its meaning, some time since.

The aged granddame the Orient is being taught by a somewhat flighty and exceedingly imperious and headstrong youngster and she smiles through her wrinkles often a superfine smile as she has seen so many toy inventions and toy states rise, fall and even pass from memory while she still lives on. She enjoys the spectacle of western sweat and energy and she watches as all age does to see what sort of beings this fancied superiority has produced. It is no wonder she still keeps on smiling as she sees the pitiful result of so much dazzling modernism and exquisite theories and grandiloquent faith shattered the moment you touch its adherents. It is a very, very old story as old as when woman first bore the transgression for herself and for man and through her patience and heroism brought atonement. But the sun still rises in splendor over Manila and we hope and wait and long, as they have since the first whiteness followed the first darkness--for the day. There is late talk of giving up the task America has set herself in the East. If she does, it will be another sign of the triumph of those qualities which are disintegrating her life at home, greed, ambition, social, religious and political, the unsatisfied passion for pleasure which makes her one of the most lawless and frivolous modern Nations.

If you touch an orange it will roll over but many shocks will not turn a world out of its orbit, for it is held in the hand of One, who can guide a tangent, quite as well as a steady methodical body, and who can remove at will a whole astral system. What the future holds is one of the most solemn enigmas but only what America is can she put in here and “would it were worthier.”

Across the East the dawn is coming, not because the West is come to teach her new forms of greed and ambition, but because the forces within her, the eternal primeval elements are stirring and forming in the combinations which mean life.

Within her will come her salvation, not from without, from the Oriental himself will come the best of his future.

Western civilization has failed to produce on any large scale, noble character, the East knows it. It has watched the falseness of the state craft, the greater falseness of its religious love of aggrandizement, it has seen in the adherents of the latter no reason to choose them as a pattern, quite the contrary.

The simple truthful faith of Christ whose ethical teachings are so direct, so free from sophistry, a child might read it has been and is today, the excuse for the darkest crimes. Said one of the leaders of the Christian faith in Japan, “It is only with sinking heart one can point to a faith which bears such fruits, when the so-called heathen can teach us any day conduct which outshines ours as the sun a glow worm.” From within must come the truth of God in her own soul as men are every day more powerless to live it or teach it, though the truth remains eternally vital.

May the God of light guide this great, glorious Orient into a future of illustrious achievement and untarnished ideals.

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