Chapter I: Preface

The following pages are the record of the fruition of years of desire and anticipation; probably the same that fills the hearts of many who will read them--a tour in Europe.

The habits of observation, acquired by many years' constant occupation as a journalist, were found by the author to have become almost second nature, even when the duties of that profession were thrown aside for simple gratification and enjoyment; consequently, during a journey of nearly seven months, which was enjoyed with all the zest of a first tour, the matter which composes this volume was prepared.

Its original form was in a series of sketches in the columns of the Boston Commercial Bulletin. In these the writer attempted to give as vivid and exact an idea of the sights and scenes which he witnessed as could be conveyed to those who had never visited Europe.

Whether describing Westminster Abbey, or York Minster, Stratford-on-Avon, or the streets of London; the wonders of the Louvre, or the gayeties and glitter of Paris; the grandeur of the Alpine passes; the quaintness of old continental cities; experiences of post travelling; the romantic beauties of the Italian lakes; the underground wonders of Adelsberg, or the aqueous highways of Venice,--the author aimed to give many minute particulars, which foreign letter-writers deem of too little importance to mention, but which, nevertheless, are of great interest to the reader.

That the effort was, in some measure, successful, has been evinced by a demand for the sketches in permanent form, sufficient to warrant the publication of this volume.

In so presenting them, it is with the belief that it may be pleasant to those who have visited the same scenes to revisit them in fancy with the writer, and with a hope that the volume may, in some degree, serve as a guide to those who intend to go "over the ocean," as well as an agreeable entertainment to the stay-at-homes.

C. G.

CONTENTS.

PAGE
CHAPTER I.

Going Abroad.--What it costs.--Hints to Tourists.--Life
on board Ship.--Land Ho!--Examining Luggage.--The Emerald
Isle.--Blarney Castle.--Dublin.--Dublin Castle.--St.
Patrick's Cathedral.--Cheap John's Paradise.--Phoenix
Park.--Across the Irish Sea.--Railroad travelling in
England.--Guard _vs._ Conductor.--Word to the Wise.--
Railroad Stations.--An Old English City.--Chester
Cathedral.--The City Walls. 1-28

CHAPTER II.

Chester to Liverpool.--An English Breakfast.--A Trial of
Patience.--Liverpool Docks.--St. George's Hall.--Poverty
and Suffering.--The Lake District.--Home of the Poets.--
Keswick.--An English Church.--The Druids' Temple.--
Brougham Hall.--A Roadside Inn. 28-46

CHAPTER III.

Edinburgh.--Historic Streets.--Edinburgh Castle.--Bonnie
Dundee.--Rooms of Historic Story.--The Scottish Regalia.
--Curiosities of the Old City.--Holyrood Palace.--Relics
of the Past.--Holyrood Abbey.--Antiquarian Museum.--Scott
and Scotland.--Hawthornden.--Roslin Chapel.--Melrose
Abbey.--The Abbey Hotel.--Abbotsford.--Stirling Castle.--
The Tournament Field.--Field of Bannockburn.--Lady of the
Lake Scenes.--Scotch Lakes and Hills. 47-79

CHAPTER IV.

Glasgow Cathedral.--Vestiges of Vandalism.--Bible Stories
in Colored Glass.--The Actor's Epitaph.--Tam O'Shanter's
Ride.--Burns's Cottage.--Kirk Alloway.--A Reminder from
the Witches.--Bonnie Doon.--Newcastle-on-Tyne.--York.--
Beauties of York Minster.--Old Saxon Relics.--Sheffield.--
The Cutlery Works.--English Mechanics.--English Ale.--
Chatsworth.--Interior of the Palace.--Sculpture Gallery.--
Landscape Effects.--Grand Conservatory.--Haddon Hall. 80-115

CHAPTER V.

Kenilworth.--Stratford on Avon.--Interesting Mementos.--
Stratford Church.--Shakespeare's Safeguard.--Warwick
Castle.--Dungeon and Hall.--Warder's Horn and Warwick
Vase.--Leicester's Hospital.--Beauchamp Chapel.--Mugby
Junction.--Oxford.--The Mitre Tavern.--Bodleian Library.
--Literary Treasures.--Curiosities and Rarities.--Story
of an Old Portrait.--Queen Bess on Matrimony.--Addison's
Walk.--Boating on the Isis.--Martyr's Memorial. 116-151

CHAPTER VI.

London.--Feeing Servants.--Railway Porters.--London
Hotels.--Sights in London Streets.--Cabs and Cab-drivers.
--London Shops.--Hints to Buyers.--A London Banking-house.
--Routine _vs._ Courtesy.--Westminster Abbey.--Tombs of
Kings and Warriors.--Poets' Corner.--Tributes to Genius.
--Penny Steamboat Trip.--Kew Gardens.--The Star and
Garter. 152-185

CHAPTER VII.

The Original Wax Works.--London Theatres.--Full Dress at
the Opera.--Play Bills.--A Palace for the People.--Parks
of London.--Zoölogical Gardens.--The Tower of London.--The
Silver Key.--Site of the Scaffold.--Knights in Armor.--
Regalia of England.--St. Paul's.--The Whispering Gallery.
--Up into the Ball.--Down into the Crypt.--Gog and Magog.
--Bank of England.--Hampton Court Palace.--The Gardens and
People.--Windsor Castle.--Windsor Parks.--London
Newspapers.--The Times.--The British Museum.--
Bibliographical Curiosities.--Egyptian Galleries.--A
Wealth of Antiquities.--Original Magna Charta.--Priceless
Manuscripts. 185-246

CHAPTER VIII.

From London to Paris.--Grand Hotels.--The Arch of Triumph.
--Paris by Gaslight.--Site of the Guillotine.--
Improvements in Paris.--The Bastille.--The Old Guard.--The
Louvre.--Gallery of Masterpieces.--Relics of Napoleon I.
--Palais Royal.--Jewelry.--French Funeral.--Père La Chaise.
--Millions in Marble.--Tomb of Bonaparte.--Versailles.--
Halls of the Crusades.--Gallery of the Empire.--Gallery of
Battles.--Theatre in the Palace.--Fountains at Versailles.
--Notre Dame.--Sainte Chapelle.--The Madeleine.--The
Pantheon.--Les Champs Elysées.--Cafés Chantants.--The
Jardin Mabille.--The Luxembourg.--Palace of St. Cloud.--
Shops in Paris.--Bargains. 246-309

CHAPTER IX.

Good by to Paris.--Church of St. Gudule.--Field of
Waterloo.--Brussels Lace.--Antwerp.--The Cathedral Spire.
--Dusseldorf.--Cologne Cathedral.--Riches of the Church.
--Up the Rhine.--Bridge of Boats.--Coblentz and
Ehrenbreitstein.--Stolzenfels.--Legendary Castles.--Bingen
on the Rhine.--Roman Remains.--Mayence.--Wiesbaden.--
Gambling Halls.--Frankfort-on-the-Main.--Heidelberg Castle.
--The Great Tun.--The King's Seat.--Baden-Baden.--Sabbath
Amusement.--Satan's Snare baited.--Among the Gamblers.--
Scene at the Table.--Strasburg Cathedral.--Strasburg
Clock.--Clock at Basle.--Swiss Railways.--Travelling in
Switzerland.--Zurich and its Scenery. 309-375