Chapter I: Preface

In offering this volume to the Public, the result of a year's experience and labor, I must indeed feel gratified, and more than rewarded, if any of those who may peruse its pages shall find in them a tithe of the pleasure which I enjoyed in journeying in and about the nooks, crannies, and curious places, of what may be justly called the greatest and most populous City of the Modern World.

Believing that a Metropolis of Three and a Half Millions of people should be observed and described, if observed and described at all, in a large and comprehensive sense, in order that a thorough knowledge of it may be obtained by those who will do me the honor of turning the leaves of this book, I have not hesitated to take my readers into places which they might shrink from visiting alone, and which are rarely or ever seen by the stranger, in London. Therefore have I sketched its Haunts of Vice, Misery, and Crime, as well as its fairer and brighter aspects, with no faltering in my purpose, so that the American people might see London as I saw it, and as it exists To-Day.

The material employed in making the book was gathered from personal observation, while acting as a Special Correspondent of the New York _World_, in London, and I cannot do less than make an acknowledgment of the kindness of its Editor, Mr. Manton Marble, by whose permission I have used some portions of the matter embodied in this work.

DANIEL JOSEPH KIRWAN.

Hartford, August 1st, 1870.

List of ILLUSTRATIONS

_BY_
Fay & Cox
105 Nassau ST.
N.Y.]

1. One More Unfortunate Frontispiece --

2. Grand Staircase, Buckingham Palace--Illuminated Title-Page. --

3. Bird's-Eye View of London, 17

4. Initial Letter, 17

5. The London Stone, 19

6. "Thank you, Sir," 20

7. The Rock and Chain, Tail Piece, 23

8. Initial Letter, 24

9. Sword, &c., Tail Piece, 27

10. Entrance to Docks, 32

11. "I Don't Think it Will Hurt me," 34

12. Forest, Initial Letter, 42

13. Buckingham Palace (Full Page,) 45

14. Portrait of Queen Victoria, 50

15. John Brown Exercising the Queen, 53

16. Fancy Sketch, Tail Piece, 56

17. Lion on Guard, Initial Letter, 57

18. Purty Bill Showing us in, 61

19. "Wont you Take Something?" 63

20. Snake Swallowing, 67

21. "Bilking Bet takes the Chair," 72

22. "Teddy the Kinchin's Song," 74

23. Explosive Materials, Tail Piece, 75

24. Initial Letter, 76

25. Cogers' Hall, Debating Club, 85

26. Snake in the Grass, Tail Piece, 91

27. Initial Letter, 92

28. Conservative Club House, 99

29. Carlton Club House, 101

30. Oxford and Cambridge Club House, 102

31. United Service Club House, 104

32. Architectural Sketch, Tail Piece, 106

33. Initial Letter, 107

34. Westminster Abbey, 109

35. Shakespeare's Tomb, 115

36. Tomb of Milton, 117

37. Tomb of Mary Queen of Scots, 118

38. Coronation Chair, 121

39. Gauntleted Hand and Sword, Tail Piece, 127

40. Initial Letter, 128

41. Victoria Theatre in the New Cut, (Full Page,) 136

42. Rag Fair, 142

43. A Cell Window, Initial Letter, 145

44. The Last Execution at Newgate, 151

45. Fetters and Chain, Tail Piece, 158

46. Broken Wheel, Initial Letter, 159

47. Doctors' Commons, 162

48. Eagle and Snake, Tail Piece, 166

49. Initial Letter, 167

50. A Bohemian Carouse, 171

51. A Water Scene, Tail Piece, 180

52. Tower of London (Full Page,) 182

53. Initial Letter, 183

54. Traitors' Gate, 189

55. The Crown Jewels, 197

56. Imperial Orb, Ampulla and other Jewels, 199

57. The State Salt-Cellars, 200

58. Cannon, Tail Piece, 206

59. Initial Letter, 207

60. The Cadgers' Meal, 210

61. Raft Timber, Tail Piece, 215

62. The Old Oak, Initial Letter, 216

63. Bathing in Hyde Park, 219

64. The Labyrinth, 221

65. The Crystal Palace, 223

66. The Promenade, Tail Piece, 225

67. Fort and Water Scene, Initial Letter, 226

68. Portrait of the Prince of Wales, 230

69. Prince and Cabman, 234

70. Broken Wagon and Dead Horse, Tail Piece, 239

71. Blood-Hounds in the Leash, Initial Letter, 240

72. Portrait of Lady Mordaunt, 243

73. Portrait of the Duke of Hamilton, 262

74. Portrait of the Marquis of Waterford, 265

75. Portrait of the Marquis of Hastings, 267

76. Mounted Cannon, Initial Letter, 270

77. Houses of Parliament (Full Page,) 272

78. Portrait of William Ewart Gladstone, 274

79. The Legislative Bar-Maid, 279

80. Portrait of John Bright, 281

81. The Student, Tail Piece, 284

82. Initial Letter, 285

83. "Could you Make it a Tanner?" 290

84. The Speaker of the House, 292

85. First Lord of the Admiralty, 298

86. Portrait of Robert E. Lowe, 300

87. Gladstone Speaking in the House of Commons (Full Page,) 307

88. Landscape, Tail Piece, 317

89. Initial Letter, 318

90. The Pocket-Book Game, 324

91. Steam Frigate, Tail Piece, 329

92. A Broadside, Initial Letter, 330

93. The Sewer Hunter, 334

94. Blood-Hound, Tail Piece, 336

95. Island, Initial Letter, 337

96. Cats Receiving Rations, 339

97. The Great Porter Tun, 341

98. Initial Letter, 344

99. The Harvard Crew (Full Page,) 353

100. Bridge, Tail Piece, 361

101. Initial Letter, 362

102. The Oxford Crew, (Full Page,) 369

103. The University Race, (Full Page,) 375

104. Beautiful Craft, Tail Piece, 381

105. Initial Letter, 382

106. Hospital Ship "Dreadnought," 384

107. Jonathan Wild's Skeleton, 389

108. Tail Piece, 390

109. Initial Letter, 391

110. Coke Peddler, 399

111. Bum Boatman, 401

112. "I Gets it for Cigar Stumps," 403

113. Street Acrobats, 405

114. Punch and Judy, 407

115. Initial Letter, 410

116. Nelson's Monument, 416

117. Damaged Tree, Tail Piece, 419

118. Initial Letter, 420

119. Nursery in the Foundling Hospital, 421

120. Washing the Waifs, 427

121. Landscape, Tail Piece, 434

122. Initial Letter, 435

123. Breakfast Stall, Covent Garden Market (Full Page,) 443

124. The Orange Market, 450

125. Going to Market, Tail Piece, 451

126. Fancy Piece, Initial Letter, 452

127. Wild and Desolate, Tail Piece, 460

128. Initial Letter, 461

129. Foreign Cafe in Coventry Street, 462

130. Canteen of the Alhambra, 471

131. The Old Sinner, 473

132. Rough and Ready, Tail Piece, 475

133. In the Haymarket, 482

134. Initial Letter, 486

135. St. Paul's Cathedral, 487

136. Sharp-Shooter, Initial Letter, 493

137. "Beautiful Miss Neilson," 494

138. A Gin Public in the New Cut, 500

139. A Gallery of the "Vic," 502

140. Putting on Airs, Tail Piece, 507

141. Initial Letter, 508

142. An Auction at Billingsgate Fish Market, (Full Page,) 511

143. Initial Letter, 518

144. Lincoln's Inn, 520

145. Fancy Sketch, Tail Piece, 525

146. An English Oak, Initial Letter, 526

147. Bankers' Eating-House, 528

148. The Bank of England, 533

149. "I Began to Perspire," 538

150. Carpet-Bag, Tail Piece, 544

151. London Bridge, (Full Page,) 546

152. Forest Scene, Initial Letter, 547

153. Temple Bar, Fleet Street, 550

154. The New Blackfriars Bridge, 553

155. Bridge and Water Scene, Tail Piece, 555

156. Initial Letter, 556

157. Windsor Castle, 560

158. Tail Piece, 565

159. Initial Letter, 566

160. Loading the Prison Van, 570

161. Detective Irving, 572

162. Before the Lord Mayor, 574

163. Bible and Hand, Initial Letter, 576

164. Portrait of Spurgeon, 577

165. Portrait of Father Ignatius, 578

166. "Lothair" (Marquis of Bute,) 583

167. Ruins, Tail Piece, 586

168. Initial Letter, 587

169. "Scott's" in the Haymarket, 588

170. The Midnight Mission, (Full Page,) 592

171. "Skittles" and the Princess Mary, 595

172. A Row in Cremorne, 596

173. Sword and Purse, Initial Letter, 598

174. Portrait of "Mabel Grey," 602

175. Portrait of "Anonyma," 605

176. Portrait of "Baby Hamilton," 606

177. Mabel Grey at Home, 609

178. Portrait of "Alice Gordon," 613

179. Snake and Dove, Initial Letter, 614

180. A Meal at a Cheap Lodging House, (Full Page,) 617

181. "Damnable Jack," 619

182. Statue of George Peabody, 625

183. Tail Piece, 625

184. Initial Letter, 626

185. Old "Smudge," the Cabby, 627

186. "A Hansom Cab," 628

187. "One Hundred Rats in Nine Minutes," 630

188. The Rat-Catcher, 632

189. "Paddy's Goose," 633

190. Waiting for the Tide, 634

191. Ruins, Tail Piece, 635

192. "The Times" Office, 650

193. The Sub-Editors' Room, "Daily Telegraph" Office, 651

194. Portrait of James Anthony Froude, 639

195. Portrait of Algernon Charles Swinburne, 641

196. Portrait of John Stewart Mill, 643

197. Portrait of Benjamin Disraeli, 644

198. Portrait of John Ruskin, 637

199. Portrait of Charles Kingsley, 645

200. Portrait of Anthony Trollope, 647

201. Tail Piece, 652

202. Initial Letter, 655

203. Half-Penny Soup House, (Full Page,) 653

204. A Pawn-Broker's Shop, 656

205. A Third Class Railway Carriage, 659

206. Tail Piece, 662

207. Map of London, --

CHAPTER I.

THE MISTRESS OF THE WORLD.

View from the Cupola of St. Paul's Cathedral--Population of London--Its Wealth and Poverty--Interesting Statistics, 18

CHAPTER II.

THE SILENT HIGHWAY.

The Thames Embankment--The Tunnel--The Subway--Tunnel Thieves--Pneumatic Railway, 24

CHAPTER III.

THE DOCKS, SHIPPING, AND COMMERCE.

Custom-House Duties--Immense Wine Vaults under the Docks--Hoisting and Discharging Cargoes--London and West India Docks--Opposition to the New Dock System--Dock Laborers, 28

CHAPTER IV.

PALACES OF LONDON.

St. James--Whitehall--Buckingham Palace--Magnificence of the Queen's Residence--The Grand Staircase--Queen's Library--The Famous _John Brown_, 42

CHAPTER V.

HIDDEN DEPTHS.

Underground Life--A Friendly Visit among Thieves and Pick-Pockets--The Midnight Feast, 58

CHAPTER VI.

DEBATING CLUBS AND COGERS' HALL.

Society of Cogers--The Most Worthy Grand--News of the Week--Interesting Debates--Irish Orator and Scotch Presbyterian--Liberals and Conservatives--"Where are we now?"--Farce and Tragedy, 76

CHAPTER VII.

CLUBS AND CLUB HOUSES.

Aristocratic Members--Entrance and Subscription Fees--How Managed and Supported--Architectural Splendor--Choice Wines and Luxurious Dinners--Interesting Statistics--A Model Kitchen--Heavy Swell Club, 92

CHAPTER VIII.

WESTMINSTER ABBEY.

Its Dimensions and Architectural Construction--Its Wealth and Immense Revenues--The Burial-Place of the Kings and Queens--Magnificence of their Tombs--Tomb of Shakespeare--Tomb of Milton--Tomb of Mary Queen of Scots--Coronation of William the Conqueror--The Massacre, 107

CHAPTER IX.

THE COSTERMONGERS AND RAG FAIR.

The New Cut--Heathenism of the Costers--Marriage Relation--Old Clothes District--Petticoat Lane--Congress of Rags--Modus Operandi of Selling, 128

CHAPTER X.

FROM NEWGATE TO TYBURN.

Dying for an Idea--Execution of Barrett--Man in the Mask--Famous Criminals--Pestiferous Prison--The Old Bailey Court--Hotel Regulations--Drinking from St. Giles' Bowl, 145

CHAPTER XI.

DOCTORS' COMMONS.

Marriage Licenses--Divorces--Ecclesiastical Court--High Court of Admiralty--Paying the Piper--Legal Scoundrelism--The Last Will and Testaments of Shakespeare, Milton, and of Napoleon Bonaparte--The Forgotten Sailor, 159

CHAPTER XII.

THE BOHEMIANS OF LONDON.

Carlisle Arms--A Pint of Cooper--Cockerell's Lodgings--Fitz and Dawson, or the Radical and Conservative Reporter--The Short Hand Reporter--Dawson's Story--A Song from the Speaker--Beautiful Potato, 167

CHAPTER XIII.

TOWER, PALACE, AND PRISON.

Its History and Dimensions--Council Chamber--Jolly Bishops and Royal Prisoners--The Traitor's Gate--Anne Boleyn--Princess Elizabeth--Heroism of Lady Jane Grey upon the Scaffold--The Crown Jewels--What can be seen for a Sixpence, 183

CHAPTER XIV.

CADGERS OF LONDON BRIDGE.

Under the Arches--Vagrancy and Pauperism--The Family Gathering--The Cadger's Meal--A Confirmed Vagrant--The Girl Molly--The Hopeful Son--The Cadger's Story, 207

CHAPTER XV.

THE LUNGS OF LONDON.

Regent's and Hyde Parks--Dimensions of the Public Parks and Gardens--What they Contain--Bathing in Hyde Park--Richmond Park with its Forests and Hunting Grounds--Hampton Court Park--Its Labyrinth--The Crystal Palace--Veteran Musicians--Greenwich Park--Grand Observatory, 216

CHAPTER XVI.

THE RAKES OF THE ROYAL FAMILY.

Vagabonds in Kingly Robes--Prince of Wales and his Personal Friends--The Prince and the London Brewer as Firemen--Lord Carington as a Coachman--His Cowardly Assault upon Greenville Murray--The Prince and Cabman--Infamy of the Prince--A Mad King, 226

CHAPTER XVII.

FAST YOUNG ENGLAND.

Lord Carington--Lady Mordaunt, Divorce Proceedings, and Interesting Testimony--Love Letters of the Prince--Duke of Hamilton--The Fastest Young Man in England--The Marquis of Waterford--Marquis of Hastings--Duke of Newcastle--Earl of Jersey--Lord Clinton and others, 240

CHAPTER XVIII.

LORDS AND COMMONS.

Westminster Palace and Houses of Parliament--Interior of the House of Commons--Bobbies and Cabbies--Strangers' Gallery--The Legislative Bar-Maid--William Ewart Gladstone--England's Greatest Commoner John Bright, 272

CHAPTER XIX.

LORDS AND COMMONS CONTINUED.

Reporters' Gallery--Dr. Johnson taking Notes--The Speaker and his Wig--Important Personages--First Lord of the Admiralty--Peers in the Gallery--Gladstone's Early Life--The Eloquence of the Premier--The Sarcasm of Disraeli--Ducal Houses--Upper House of Parliament--Privileges of the Peers, 285

CHAPTER XX.

LONDON POLICE AND DETECTIVES.

The Old Jewry--Central Detective's Office--Relics of Crimes--Inspector Bailey--Experience of Mr. Funnell--The Pocket-Book Game--New York a Precious bad Place--Police Districts--Expenses Attending them--River Thieves, 318

CHAPTER XXI.

HUNTING THE SEWERS.

The City Honey-Combed--2,000 Miles of Sewerage--An Unlawful and Dangerous Business--Prizes Found--The Hunter's Story--Great Battle with the Rats--Victory at last, 330

CHAPTER XXII.

BACCHUS AND BEER.

The English a Great Beer-Drinking People--Amount of Exports--Barclay and Perkins--A Princely Firm--Cats on Guard--The House of Hanbury, Buxton & Co.--Great Porter Tun--Libraries in the Establishments--Quantities of Beer used in London, 338

CHAPTER XXIII.

HARVARD AGAINST OXFORD.

Police Arrangements--Thomas Hughes, M.P.--Dark Blue and Magenta--On the Tow-Path--A Frightful Jam--Booths and Shows--Badges and Rosettes--The Dear Old Flag, 344

CHAPTER XXIV.

STRUGGLE AND VICTORY.

On Board the Press Boat--The Harvard Crew--Loring's Condition--Simmons the Pride of the Crew--The Oxford Crew--"Little Corpus," the Coxswain--The Start--Harvard Leads--Burnham's bad Steering--Oxford's Vengeance Stroke--The Last Desperate Struggle--Beaten by Six Seconds--Fair Play and Courtesy, 362

CHAPTER XXV.

CURIOSITIES OF LONDON.

"Domesday Book"--Oldest Books in England--Hospital Ship "Dreadnought"--A Gaudy Show--The Queen's Stage-Coach--Jonathan Wild's Skeleton--The Lord Mayor's State Coach--Installation of a London Sheriff, 382

CHAPTER XXVI.

STREET SIGHTS OF LONDON.

Street Hawkers--Venders of Old Boots and Shoes--The Dog Fancier--Bird Sellers--Coke Peddlers--Bum Boatman--Stock in Trade--How Dick gets his Porridge--"I Gets it for Cigar-Stumps"--Street Acrobats--Punch and Judy Show, 391

CHAPTER XXVII.

THE BRITISH MUSEUM AND NATIONAL GALLERY.

Its Origin--Laying the Foundation--Reading Room--Departments of the Museum--The Galleries and Saloons--The Three Libraries--What can be seen--Nelson's Monument--Pictures and Works of Art in the National Gallery--The Great Masters--Free to the Working People, 410

CHAPTER XXVIII.

NAKED AND NEEDY.

Infanticide--The Benevolent Captain--Foundling Hospital--Admission of Children--Great Numbers Received--How they Dine--How they Sleep--Washing the Waifs--Charitable Institutions--An Interesting Sight--Innumerable Bequests, 420

CHAPTER XXIX.

MARKETS AND FOOD.

Amount of Food Sold--Inspections--Metropolitan Cattle Market--New Smithfield Market--Covent Garden Market--Hot Coffee Girl--Vegetable Market--The Baked Potato Man--The Jews' Orange Market, 435

CHAPTER XXX.

SECRETS OF A RIVER.

Waterloo Bridge--The Pale-Faced Girl--Three O'clock in the Morning--Weary of Life--A Leap from the Parapet--Fruitless Attempt to Save--A Sad Sight--The Wages of Sin is Death, 452

CHAPTER XXXI.

INTO THE JAWS OF DEATH.

Leicester Square--Foreign Cafe in Coventry Street--The Abode of Sir Joshua Reynolds--The Residence of William Hogarth--Royal Alhambra Palace--The Great Social Evil--"Wotten Wow"--In the Canteen--The Old Sinner--The Tulip and the Daisy, 461

CHAPTER XXXII.

THE "ARGYLE," "BARNES'" AND "CASINO."

The Haymarket by Night--The Argyle Rooms--Fast Young Men--Paint and Jewelry--Silks and Satins--Free and Easy--Barnes'--"Holborn Casino"--A Magnificent Saloon--Good Night, 476

CHAPTER XXXIII.

ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL.

Its History and Dimensions--Destruction of Old St. Paul's--Annual Revenues--Prices of Admission--Monuments to Nelson--Burial-Place of Wellington--Nelson's Funeral--A Grand Sight--"I am the Resurrection and the Life," 486

CHAPTER XXXIV.

GOING TO THE PLAY.

Beautiful Miss Neilson--The Lord Chamberlain a Censor--Royal Victoria Theatre--Covent Garden and Drury Lane Theatres--A "Gin Public" in the New Cut--The Gallery of the "Vic"--The Chorus of "Immensekoff," 493

CHAPTER XXXV.

BILLINGSGATE FISH MARKET.

Profit on Fish--Oyster Boats--Number of Fishing Vessels--The Fish Woman--The Old Style of Dress--Breakfast at Billingsgate--Capital Invested--Immense Sales, 508

CHAPTER XXXVI.

THE INNS OF COURT.

Number of Students--Gray's Inn--The New Hall of Lincoln's Inn--Parliament Chamber--How to become a Lawyer--Procuring Admission--"Hall Dinners"--Cup of "Sack"--The Toast--Irish Students, 518

CHAPTER XXXVII.

BANK OF ENGLAND AND THE MINT.

Its History--The Riots--Ledgers and Money-Bags--A Powerful Corporation--Bankers' Eating-House--Great Panic of 1825--In the Vaults--Making Sovereigns--Marking Room--How the Coin is Tested--Celebrated Counterfeiters, 526

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

BRIDGES OF LONDON.

History of Old London Bridge--The Fire of 1632--Where Traitors' Heads were Suspended--Temple Bar--Traffic of London Bridges--Southwark and Waterloo Bridges--The New Blackfriars Bridge--Suspension Bridges--Acrobatic Feats--Scott, the American Diver, 547

CHAPTER XXXIX.

WINDSOR CASTLE.

Great number of Apartments--The Round Tower--The Audience Chamber--Throne Room--Visit to the Queen's Bedroom--An Elegant Apartment, 556

CHAPTER XL.

BEFORE THE MAGISTRATES.

The "Old Bailey"--Its Jurisdiction--The Lord Mayor's Court--The Trial of a Young Forger--The Judges' Dinner--Loading the Prison Van--The Mansion House--Detective Irving--The Forger Harwood--How Justice is Administered, 566

CHAPTER XLI.

CANTERBURY AND ROME.

Churches and Sects--Bishop of London--Archbishop of Canterbury--Spurgeon--"Apocalypse Cumming"--Church of England--Father Ignatius--Roman Catholic Lords--Marquis of Bute, 576

CHAPTER XLII.

LEGION OF THE LOST.

The Great Parade Ground--"Scott's" in the Haymarket--Oysters in every Style--Prostitutes and Abandoned Women--The Midnight Mission--Rev. Baptist Noel--Cremorne Gardens at Chelsea--A Row at Cremorne--"Skittles" and the Princess Mary of Cambridge, 587

CHAPTER XLIII.

SCARLET WOMEN.

Goodwood Races--Men of the Turf--Swarms of People--The Barouche and Four--Beauty of its Occupants--"Anonyma" and the Chestnut Mare--"Mabel Grey" and "Baby Hamilton"--The Race for the Goodwood Cup--The Itinerant Preacher--Mabel Grey at Home--"The Kitten"--Alice Gordon, 598

CHAPTER XLIV.

CHEAP LODGING HOUSES.

Eve of the Great Derby Race--Visit to Westminster--Lodging House of Jack Scrag--_Four-Penny_ Beds--Unpleasant Bed-Fellow--Attacking the Enemy--A Lucky Escape--Crowded Buildings--Eminent Philanthropists--Model Lodging Houses--Munificent Gifts--George Peabody's Statue, 615

CHAPTER XLV.

A TRAMP IN THE BY-WAYS.

"Old Smudge," the Cabby--A "Hansom" Cab--Rates of Fares--A Convivial Pup--The Rat Pit--The Terrier "Skid"--The Match for £50--Skid Slaughters a Hundred Rats in 8:40--Paddy's "Goose," or "The White Swan"--Please Excuse me--Waiting for the Tide--Cured of the Blues, 626

CHAPTER XLVI.

LITERATURE AND JOURNALISM.

Work and Wages--Influence of London Journals--Management of the Press--Circulation and Delivery of Papers--Celebrated Writers--James Anthony Froude--Algernon Charles Swinburne--John Stewart Mill--Benjamin Disraeli--John Ruskin--Charles Kingsley, Anthony Trollope, and others, 636

CHAPTER XLVII.

THE POOR OF LONDON.

Half-Penny Soup House--The Little Cast-aways and Waifs Provided for--Visit to the Work-House of St Martin's--The Workers' Uniform--The Old Pauper--Daily Rations--Schools--Trades--Struggles and Trials of the London Poor--Pawn-Brokers' Shops--Third Class Railway Carriages, 655