Chapter VIII: Part 8

{140} Mr. Trimble had left a wife and four children. She had sent by the party a request that we might come back, and allow her and family to travel with us to the U. States. We accordingly all took the road to the company's camp, (driving the cattle) which we reached at day-break on the morning of the 20th June. Here we remained until the afternoon. By the persuasion of her friends, Mrs. Trimble concluded to continue her journey to Oregon. But there were four families who had lost so many of their cattle, that they were unable to proceed on their journey. They had four wagons, and only five yoke of cattle, and some of them were very small. They wished us to travel with them through the Pawnee country, as the Pawnees were the perpetrators of the act which had caused them so much difficulty. We accordingly traveled with them until the 30th, when we left them, and resumed our journey towards home.

On the morning of the 21st we were joined by Mr. Smith, and the three men who had been left at the fort. We traveled on rapidly day and night, barely giving our animals time to rest. The weather was becoming warm; the flies and musquitoes were very annoying. We arrived at the Mission or Agency on the morning of the 6th of July.[219] Here are extensive farms, and a most delightful country. The first view of cultivated fields, and marks of civilization, brought simultaneous shouts from the whole party. Our troubles and toils were all forgotten.

On the 7th of July, at 10 o'clock A. M., we arrived at the St. Joseph's mission, where we all hoped to meet with friends.[220] We had been so long among savages, that we resembled them much in appearance; but when attired in new apparel, and shaved as became white men, we hardly knew each other. We had been long in each other's company; had undergone hardships and privations together; had passed through many dangers, relying upon each other for aid and protection. Attachments had grown up, which when we were about to separate were sensibly felt; but as we were yet separated from our families, where still stronger ties were felt, each one took his course, and in a few hours our party was scattered, and each traveling in a different direction.

Those of us who had mules found ready sales; but as the horses were much reduced in flesh, they could not be disposed of. Our horses had stood the trip remarkably well, until within two hundred and fifty miles of Missouri. But the flies {141} had so annoyed them, the weather being warm, and the grass of an inferior quality, that they had failed much. I had five horses; the one which I had taken from home was quite lame, and I left him at St. Joseph's; the other four were Indian horses, and Mr. Buckley agreed to take them by land, across Missouri and Illinois, and home; but he was unsuccessful, and arrived with only one of them.

I took steamboat passage to St. Louis[221] and Cincinnati, and thence by stage to Laurel, Indiana, where I arrived on the 23d of July; having been gone from home one year three months and one week. I had the pleasure of finding my family enjoying good health.

NECESSARY OUTFITS FOR EMIGRANTS TRAVELING TO OREGON

For burthen wagons, light four horse or heavy two horse wagons are the size commonly used. They should be made of the best material, well seasoned, and should in all cases have falling tongues. The tire should not be less than one and three fourth inches wide, but may be advantageously used three inches; two inches, however, is the most common width. In fastening on the tire, bolts should be used instead of nails; it should be at least 5/8 or 3/4 inches thick. Hub boxes for the hubs should be about four inches. The skeins should be well steeled. The Mormon fashioned wagon bed is the best. They are usually made straight, with side boards about 16 inches wide, and a projection outward of four inches on each side, and then another side board of ten or twelve inches; in this last, set the bows for covers, which should always be double. Boxes for carrying effects should be so constructed as to correspond in height with the offset in the wagon bed, as this gives a smooth surface to sleep upon.

Ox teams are more extensively used than any others. Oxen stand the trip much better, and are not so liable to be stolen by the Indians, and are much less trouble. Cattle are generally allowed to go at large, when not hitched to the wagons; whilst horses and mules must always be staked up at night. Oxen can procure food in many places where horses cannot, and in much less time. Cattle that have been raised in Illinois or Missouri, stand the trip better than those raised in Indiana or Ohio; as they have been accustomed to eating the prairie grass, upon which they must wholly rely while on the road. {142} Great care should be taken in selecting cattle; they should be from four to six years old, tight and heavy made.

For those who fit out but one wagon, it is not safe to start with less than four yoke of oxen, as they are liable to get lame, have sore necks, or to stray away. One team thus fitted up may start from Missouri with twenty-five hundred pounds and as each day's rations make the load that much lighter, before they reach any rough road, their loading is much reduced. Persons should recollect that every thing in the outfit should be as light as the required strength will permit; no useless trumpery should be taken. The loading should consist of provisions and apparel, a necessary supply of cooking fixtures, a few tools, &c. No great speculation can be made in buying cattle and driving them through to sell; but as the prices of oxen and cows are much higher in Oregon than in the States, nothing is lost in having a good supply of them, which will enable the emigrant to wagon through many articles that are difficult to be obtained in Oregon. Each family should have a few cows, as the milk can be used the entire route, and they are often convenient to put to the wagon to relieve oxen. They should be so selected that portions of them would come in fresh upon the road. Sheep can also be advantageously driven. American horses and mares always command high prices, and with careful usage can be taken through; but if used to wagons or carriages, their loading should be light. Each family should be provided with a sheet-iron stove, with boiler; a platform can easily be constructed for carrying it at the hind end of the wagon; and as it is frequently quite windy, and there is often a scarcity of wood, the stove is very convenient. Each family should also be provided with a tent, and to it should be attached good strong cords to fasten it down.

The cooking fixtures generally used are of sheet iron; a dutch oven and skillet of cast metal are very essential. Plates, cups, &c., should be of tin ware, as queens-ware is much heavier and liable to break, and consumes much time in packing up. A reflector is sometimes very useful. Families should each have two churns, one for carrying sweet and one for sour milk. They should also have one eight or ten gallon keg for carrying water, one axe, one shovel, two or three augers, one hand saw, and if a farmer he should be provided with one crosscut saw and a few plough moulds, as it is difficult getting such articles. When I left the country, ploughs cost from twenty-five to forty dollars each. A good supply of ropes for {143} tying up horses and catching cattle, should also be taken. Every person should be well supplied with boots and shoes, and in fact with every kind of clothing. It is also well to be supplied with at least one feather bed, and a good assortment of bedding. There are no tame geese in the country, but an abundance of wild ones; yet it is difficult procuring a sufficient quantity of feathers for a bed. The Muscovy is the only tame duck in the country.

Each male person should have at least one rifle gun, and a shot gun is also very useful for wild fowl and small game, of which there is an abundance. The best sized calibre for the mountains is from thirty-two to fifty-six to the pound; but one of from sixty to eighty, or even less, is best when in the lower settlements. The buffalo seldom range beyond the South Pass, and never west of Green river. The larger game are elk, deer, antelope, mountain sheep or bighorn, and bear. The small game are hare, rabbit, grouse, sage hen, pheasant, quail, &c. A good supply of ammunition is essential.

In laying in a supply of provisions for the journey, persons will doubtless be governed, in some degree, by their means; but there are a few essentials that all will require.

For each adult, there should be two hundred pounds of flour, thirty pounds of pilot bread, seventy-five pounds of bacon, ten pounds of rice, five pounds of coffee, two pounds of tea, twenty-five pounds of sugar, half a bushel of dried beans, one bushel of dried fruit, two pounds of saleratus, ten pounds of salt, half a bushel of corn meal; and it is well to have a half bushel of corn, parched and ground; a small keg of vinegar should also be taken. To the above may be added as many good things as the means of the person will enable him to carry; for whatever is good at home, is none the less so on the road. The above will be ample for the journey; but should an additional quantity be taken, it can readily be disposed of in the mountains and at good prices, not for cash, but for robes, dressed skins, buckskin pants, moccasins, &c. It is also well for families to be provided with medicines. It is seldom however, that emigrants are sick; but sometimes eating too freely of fresh buffalo meat causes diarrhoea, and unless it be checked soon prostrates the individual, and leaves him a fit subject for disease.

The time usually occupied in making the trip from Missouri to Oregon city is about five months; but with the aid of a person who has traveled the route with an emigrating company the trip can be performed in about four months.

{144} Much injury is done to teams in racing them, endeavoring to pass each other. Emigrants should make an every day business of traveling--resting upon the same ground two nights is not good policy, as the teams are likely to ramble too far. Getting into large companies should be avoided, as they are necessarily compelled to move more tardily. From ten to twenty-five wagons is a sufficient number to travel with safety. The advance and rear companies should not be less than twenty; but between, it may be safe to go with six. The Indians are very annoying on account of their thieving propensities, but if well watched, they would seldom put them into practice. Persons should always avoid rambling far from camp unarmed, or in too small parties; Indians will sometimes seek such opportunities to rob a man of what little effects he has about him; and if he attempts to get away from them with his property, they will sometimes shoot him.

There are several points along the Missouri where emigrants have been in the practice of fitting out. Of these Independence, St. Joseph, and Council Bluffs, are the most noted. For those emigrating from Ohio, Indiana, Illinois and northern Missouri, Iowa and Michigan, I think St. Joseph the best point; as by taking that route the crossing of several streams (which at the early season we travel are sometimes very high) is avoided. Outfits may be had at this point, as readily as at any other along the river. Work cattle can be bought in its vicinity for from twenty-five to thirty dollars per yoke, cows, horses, &c., equally cheap.

Emigrants should endeavor to arrive at St. Joseph early in April, so as to be in readiness to take up the line of march by the middle of April. Companies, however, have often started as late as the tenth of May; but in such cases they seldom arrive in Oregon until after the rainy season commences in the Cascade range of mountains.

Those residing in northern Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, &c., who contemplate traveling by land to the place of rendezvous, should start in time to give their teams at least ten days rest. Ox teams, after traveling four or five hundred miles in the states, at that season of the year, would be unfit to perform a journey across the mountains; but doubtless they might be exchanged for others, at or near the rendezvous.

Farmers would do well to take along a good supply of horse gears. Mechanics should take such tools as are easily carried; as there are but few in the country, and those are held at exorbitant {145} prices. Every family should lay in a good supply of school books for their children.

In case of an emergency, flour can be bought at Fort Hall, and Fort Bois, two trading posts of the Hudson's Bay Company, at twenty dollars per hundred; and by forwarding word to Spalding's mission, on the Kooskooskee, they will pack out flour to Fort Bois, at ten dollars per hundred, and to the Grand Round at eight dollars, and will take in exchange dry goods, groceries, &c.; but at Forts Hall and Bois, the company will take nothing in payment but cash or cattle. At Dr. Whitman's station, flour can be bought at five dollars per hundred, corn meal at four dollars, beef at six and seven cents per pound, potatoes, fifty cents per bushel. It is proper to observe that the flour at Spalding's and Whitman's stations will be unbolted. Emigrants however, should be cautious, and lay in a sufficient supply to last them through.

WORDS USED IN THE CHINOOK JARGON

This is a tongue spoken by a few in each of the tribes residing in the middle and lower divisions of Oregon. It is also used by the French, and nearly all the old settlers in the country.

_Aach_ _Ekik_ _Hu-e-hu_
Sister Fish-hook Swap, exchange

_Aha_ _Elitah_ _Hol_
Yes Slave Drag, or pull

_Alka_ _Esick_ _Ilips_
Future, by and by Paddle First

_Alta_ _Esil_ _Ith-lu-el_, or _Ituel_
Present, now Corn Meat, flesh

_Ala_ _Geleech_ _I-yak_
I wonder Grease Quick, or hurry

_Ankote_ _Halo_ _Il-a-he_
Past time None Soil, dirt

_Chawko_ _Hankachim_ _Ichwet_
Come Handkerchief Bear

_Chee_ _Hous_ _Is-kum_
New House Take

_Chinkamin_ _How_ _In-a-ti_
Iron, chain Let us Overdress

_Chuck_ _Hoel-hoel_ _Ith-lu-k-ma_
Water Mouse Gamble

_Deob_ _High-you_ _I-wa_
Satan Quantity, many Beaver

_Delie_ _High-you-k-wah_ _Ips-wet_
Dry Ring Hide

_Ekih_ _Hul-u-e-ma_ _Ik-ta_
Brother-in-law Strange, different What

_Kah_ _K-wathen_ _Kilaps_
Where Bell Turn over

_K-u-ten_ _K-macks_ _Klips_
Horse Dog Upset

_Kaw-lo-ke-lo_ _Klugh_ _Ko-el_
Goose Split, or Plough Cold

_Ka-luck_ _Ko-pet_ _Kap-wah_
Swan Done, finished Alike

_K-puet_ _Kop-po_ _Kon-a-maxt_
Needle Older brother Both

_Kot-suck_ _Kow_ _Kla-hum_
Middle Is to tie Good-bye

_Kap-o_ _K-wat_ _Kla-hi-you_
Coat Hit How do you do

_Ka-nim_ _Kop-shut_ _Kaw-a-nassim_
Canoe Broken Always

_Ka-ta_ _Ko_ _Kla-ha-na_
Why Arrived Out

_Kap-su-alla_ _Kim-to_ _Klim-in-wit_
Theft, steal Behind A falsehood

_K-liten_ _Kollo_ _Krap-po_
Lead Fence Toad

_Kaw-kaw_ _Kutt_ _Klose_
Crow Hard Good

_Klat-a-wah_ _Klimin_ _Klas-ko_
Go, Walk Fine Them, those

_Kul-a-kulla_ _Kle-il_ _Ka-so_
Fowl Black Rum

_Kum-tux_ _Ka-was_ _Ko-pa_
Know, or understand Afraid There

_Ke-a-wale_ _Kom-suck_ _Kit-lo_
Love Beads Kettle

_Ka-wah-we_ _Ko-ko-well_ _Klone-ass_
All Eel I do not understand

_Klow-e-wah_ _Klaps_ _Klop-sta_
Slow Find Who

_K-wallen_ _Kow-ne-aw_ _Klouch-man_
The ear How many Female

_Kee-kool_ _La-sel_ _Le-lu_
Down Saddle Panther

_Lepo-lo_ _Le-lo-im_ _Le-pul_
Pan Sharp Chickens

_Le-por-shet_ _Le-poim_ _Lecorset_
Fork Apple Trunk

_Lehash_ _La-bush_ _Laport_
Axe Mouth Door

_Leg-win_ _Le-da_ _Le-pip_
Saw Teeth Pipe

_Lima_ _Le-ku_ _Lo-lo_
The hand Neck Carry, or tote

_Lita_ _Le-mora_ _Leb-ya_
Head Wild Old woman

_Le-pe-a_ _Lashimney_ _La-lure_
Feet Chimney Hoe

_Lo-ma-las_ _Lemitten_ _La-cope_
Molasses Mitten White

_Lemon-to_ _La-ha-la_ _La-cre-me_
Sheep Feel Yellow

_Lavest_ _Le-le_ _Mas-a-tro_
Jacket, or vest A long time Bad

_La-ep_ _Las-well_ _Met-lite_
Rope Silk Residence, Sitting
down, &c.
_Lep-lash_ _La-tem_
Boards Table _Mal-ha-na_
As, in the river; or,
_Lep-wa_ _Lep-o-lip_ push off the boat
Peas Boil

_Lep-well_ _Le-sit-well_ _Man_
Skillet Stars Male

_La-win_ _Le-mit-rem_ _Mow-etch_
Oats Medicine Deer

_La-ram_ _Le-shaw_ _Mu-lack_
Oar, for boats Shoe Elk

_Le-wash_ _Le-sack_ _Muse-a-muse_
Snow Sack, or bag Cattle

_Lemonti_ _Le-quim_ _Me-si-ka_
Mountain White bear Plural of you

_Muck-a-muck_ _O-ep-can_ _Papo_
Provisions, eat Basket Father

_Musket_ _O-ep-in-pin_ _Pil_
Rifle, or gun Skunk Red

_Moon_ _O-e-lile_ _Pe-chi_
Month Berries Green

_Mo-kah_ _O-e-pick_ _Pat-le_
Buy Both Full

_Mim-a-loosheb_ _O-elk_ _Poo_
Die, or dead Snake Shoot

_Mal-hu-ale_ _O-lo_ _Pe-teck_
Back Hungry The world

_Mi-ka_ _Oel-hin_ _Pilton_
You Seal Foolish

_Ni-ka_ _O-koke_ _Pal-a-k-lo_
I, or me This, or that Night

_Nan-ach_ _Pi-yah_ _Pes-hocks_
Look, or see Fire Thickety

_Na-ha_ _Pos-ton_ _Pis-say-ukes_
Mother Americans French

_New-ha_ _Pee_ _Quack-quack_
Let And Duck

_Now-it-k_ _Pus_ _Si-wash_
Yes, certainly If Indians

_Ne-si-ka_ _Puss_ _Swas_
We, us Cat Rain

_Nein_ _Pish-hash_ _Sah-lee_
Name Polecat High

_O-es-km_ _Pos-seas_ _Stick_
Caps Blanket Wood

_Oel-man_ _Pot-latch_ _Seck-um_
Old Give Swim

_O-pet-sa_ _Pole-ally_ _Si-yaw_
Knife Powder Far

_O-pes-wa_ _Po-et_ _Sap-a-lil_
Wonder, astonishment Boat Flour

_Ow_ _Pa-pa_ _Su-ga_
Brother Paper Sugar

_Sec-a-lukes_ _Shot_ _To-lo_
Pantaloons Shot Win, or gain

_Sap-a-pul_ _Sup-ner_ _Te-ma-has_
Hat Jump Poison

_Sto-en_ _Til-a-kum_ _Ti-pee_
Rock People An ornament

_Sil_ _Tit-the-ko-ep_ _Te-kah_
Shirting Cut Want

_Sko-kum_ _Tum-tum_ _Till_
Strong, stout The heart Heavy, or tired

_Sec-pee_ _Te-o-wit_ _Toc-ta_
To miss Leg Doctor

_See-ah-os-ti_ _Tum-pe-lo_ _Wah-wah_
Face, or eyes Back Talk, conversation

_Sam-mon_ _Tam-o-lack_ _Wake_
Fish Barrel No, not

_Sto-gon_ _Ti-ye_ _Wap-a-to_
Sturgeon Master, or chief Potato

_Son-dra_ _Tes-um_ _Win_
Roan Pretty Wind

_Salt_ _To-lo-bus_ _Wam_
Salt Wolf Warm

_Shu-es_ _Te-ko-ep_ _Wetch_
Shoes White More

_Sun_ _Te-mo-lo_ _Ya-ka_
Sun, or day To-morrow Him, she, it

_Silk-um_ _Tu-lusk_ _Yaw-wah_
Half, or a part Milk Yonder

_Smo-ek_ _Tip-so_ _Yok-sa_
Smoke Grass Hair

_Sul-luks_ _Tum-tuk_ _Ya-ha-la_
Mad, angry Water-falls Name

_Six_ _Ton-tle-ke_ _Yult-cut_
Friends Yesterday Long

_Sick_ _T-sit-still_ _You-till_
Sick, or sore Buttons, or tacks Glad, proud

_Shut_ _Tee-see_
Shirt Sweet

CHINOOK MODE OF COMPUTING NUMBERS

_Iht_ 1 _Dilo-p-sin-a-maxt_ 17
_Makst_ 2 _Dilo-p-sow-skins_ 18
_Klone_ 3 _Dilo-p-k-wi-etst_ 19
_Lakst_ 4 _Tath-la-hun makst_ 20
_K-win-nim_ 5 _Tath-la-hun klone_ 30
_Ta-hum_ 6 _Tath-la-hun lakst_ 40
_Sina-maxt_ 7 _Tath-la-hun k-win-ma_ 50
_Sow-skins_ 8 _Tath-la-hun ta-hum_ 60
_K-wi-etst_ 9 _Tath-la-hun sin-a-maxt_ 70
_Tath-la-ham_ 10 _Tath-la-hun sow-skins_ 80
_Dilo-pe-iht_ 11 _Tath-la-hun k-wi-etst_ 90
_Dilo-p-maxt_ 12 _Tak-o-mo-nuxt_ 100
_Dilo-p-klone_ 13 _Tak-o-mo-maxt_ 200
_Dilo-p-lakst_ 14 _Tak-o-mo-nuxt klone_ 300
_Dilo-p-k-winnim_ 15 _Tak-o-mo-nuxt lakst_ 400
_Dilo-p-ta-hum_ 16 _Tak-o-mo-nuxt k-win-nim_ 500

WORDS USED IN THE NEZ PERCÉ LANGUAGE

_Hama_ _Talonot_ _Ipalikt_
Man Ox Clouds

_Aiat_ _Talohin_ _Wakit_
Women Bull Rain

_Haswal_ _Kulkulal_ _Hiwakasha_
Boy Calf Rains

_Pitin_ _Shikam_ _Maka_
Girl Horse Snow

_Silu_ _Tilipa_ _Hatia_
Eye Fox Wind

_Huku_ _Tahspul_ _Yakas_
Hair Beaver Hot

_Ipsus_ _Kelash_ _Yamits_
Hand Otter Cold

_Ahwa_ _Hisamtucks_ _Tiputput_
Feet Sun Warm

_Simusimu_ _Hayaksa_ _Silakt_
Black Is hungry Body

_Ilpilp_ _Husus_ _Katnanas_
Red Head Salt

_Yosyos_ _Kohalh_ _Haya_
Gray Cow Salmon-trout

_Shukuishukui_ _Kaih_ _Wahwahlam_
Brown Colt Trout

_Kohatu_ _Highwayahwasa_ _Ilat_
Short Snows Weak

_Kohat_ _Haihai_ _Wals_
Long White Knife

_Kalinin_ _Ashtai_ _Ilatama_
Crooked Fork Is blind

_Tukuh_ _Ashtai_ _Lakailakai_
Straight Awl Gentle

_Silpsilp_ _Wawianas_ _Shiau_
Money Axe Skittish

_Taiitaii_ _Kimstam_ _Waiat_
Flat Near Far

_Hamoihamoi_ _Maksmaks_ _Shakinkash_
Soft Yellow Saw

_Sisyukas_ _Shapikash_ _Wishan_
Sugar File Poor

_Pishakas_ _Takai_ _Ilahui_
Bitter Blanket Many

_Komain_ _Sham_ _Milas_
Sickness Coat Few

_Hickomaisa_ _Ahwa_ _Animikinikai_
Is sick Foot Below

_Aluin_ _Silpsilp_ _Tokmal_
Is lame Round Hat

_Wakaas_ _Tohon_ _Huwialatus_
Is well Pantaloons Weary

_Tinukin_ _Ilapkit_ _Ahat_
Is dead Shoe Down

_Hiswesa_ _Hikai_ _Akamkinikai_
Is cold Kettle Above

_Yahet_ _Sham_ _Koko_
Neck Shirt Raven

_Nahso_ _Laka_ _Houtat_
Salmon Pine Goose

_Tushti_ _Isa_ _Houtat_
Up Mother Geese

_Atim_ _Nisu_ _Yaya_
Arm Child Swan

_Matsayee_ _Mamaias_ _Yatin_
Ear Children Crane

_Piama_ _Hikai_ _Paps_
Brothers Pail Fir, (tree)

_Kelah_ _Sishnim_ _Kopkop_
Sturgeon Thorns Cottonwood

_Wayu_ _Sikstua_ _With_
Leg Friend Alder

_Kupkup_ _Lantuama_ _Tahs_
Back Friends Willows

_Timina_ _Walatakai_ _Tims_
Heart Pan Cherry

_Sho_ _Kuish_ _Satahswakkus_
Spoon Risk Corn

_Kahno_ _Shushai_ _Paks_
Prairie-hen Grass Wheat

_Huhui_ _Suyam_ _Lapatat_
Shoulder Sucker Potatoes

_Pisht_ _Hashu_ _Papa_
Father Eel A spring

_Walpilkash_ _Shakantai_ _Wawahp_
Auger Eagle Spring (season)

_Katkat_ _Sholoshah_ _Tiam_
Duck Fish-hawk Summer

_Askap_ _Washwashno_ _Shahnim_
Brother Hen Fall

_Asmatan_ _Koun_ _Anim_
Sisters Dove Winter

_Kinis_ _Aa_ _Pelush_
Sister Crow Gooseberry

_Kikaya_ _Timanawat_ _Yaka_
Serviceberry A writer Black bear

_Kahas_ _Sapaliknawat_ _Kemo_
Milk A labourer Old man

_Katamnawakno_ _Hania_ _Tahat_
Peas Made Young man

_Hahushwakus_ _Hanishaka_ _Otwai_
Green Have made Old woman

_Inina_ _Hanitatasha_ _Timai_
House Will make Young woman

_Sanitwakus_ _Hanikika_ _Pishas_
Parsnips Made going Father-in-law

_Initain_ _Hanisna_ _Pishas_
For a house Made coming Son-in-law

_Initpa_ _Ipna hani aisha_ _Siwako_
To the house Make for him Mother-in-law

_Initkinai_ _Hanitasa_ _Siwaka_
From the house Go and make Daughter-in-law

_Initrim_ _Tash hama_ _Inaya_
House only Good man Brother-in-law

_Ininm_ _Tash timina_ _Siks_
Of a house Good heart Sister-in-law

_Initki_ _Tash shikam_ _Pimh_
By a house Good horse Step-father

_Initph_ _Tiskan shikam_ _Kaka_
To a house Fat horse Step-mother

_Haniai_ _Hamtis shikam_ _Lemakas_
Not made Fast horse Deep

_Haniawat_ _Kapskaps shikam_ _Pakas_
A mechanic Strong horse Shallow

_Hanishimai_ _Sininish shikam_ _Mul_
Not a mechanic Lazy horse Rapids

_Tamtainat_ _Kapsis shikam_ _Amshah_
Preacher Bad horse Breaker

_Himtakewat_ _Haihai shikam_ _Watas_
Teacher White horse Land

_Tamiawat_ _Hahas_ _Pishwai_
Trader Gray bear Stones

_Mahsham_ _Hitkakokaiko_ _Watoikash_
Mountain He gallops It is fordable

_Kuhsin_ _Hitksilsilsa_ _Hatsu hiyaniksa_
Hill He trots Wood is floating

_Tahpam_ _Himilmilisha_ _Hiwalasa_
Plain He paces The water runs

_Hantikam_ _Hiwalakaiks_ _Hahanwasam_
Bough He walks The day is dawning

_Tepitepit_ _Hishaulakiks_ _Wako hikaaun_
Smooth He runs It is daylight now

_Wilpwilp_ _Titishka shikam_ _Hitinatra hisamtuks_
Round Fat horses The sun is rising

_Pohol_ _Maksmaks shikam_ _Naks halaps_
Valley Sorrel horse One day

_Tasham_ _Hihaihai shikam_ _Hikulawitsa_
Ridge White horse It is evening

_Iwatam_ _Tamsilps shikam_ _Kaaun_
Lake Spotted horse Daylight

_Tikim_ _Tilamselp shikam_ _Hatsu hialika_
Falls Spotted horses The wood is lodged

_Hitkawisha_ _Minsahsminko_ _Kia waaiikshi_
He falls Read We are crossing

_Kohat tawish_ _Kokalh_ _Ka apapinmiks_
Long horn Cattle Let us sleep

_Wishan kokalk_ _Hiwaliksa_ _Ka apahips_
Poor ox The river is rising Let us eat

_Lilkailakikokal_ _Hitaausa_ _Ka apakus_
Gentle cows The river is falling Let us go

_Hiwasasha_ _Hiwalasa_ _Ka apasklin_
He rides The water runs Let us go back

NEZ PERCÉ MODE OF COMPUTING NUMBERS

_Naks_ 1 _Putimpt wah wimatat_ 18
_Lapit_ 2 _Putimpt wah kuis_ 19
_Mitat_ 3 _Laptit_ 20
_Pilapt_ 4 _Laptit wah naks_ 21
_Pahat_ 5 _Mitaptit_ 30
_Wilaks_ 6 _Piloptit_ 40
_Winapt_ 7 _Pakaptit_ 50
_Wimatat_ 8 _Wilaksaptit_ 60
_Kuis_ 9 _Winaptit_ 70
_Putimpt_ 10 _Wimitaptit_ 80
_Putimpt wah naks_ 11 _Kuisaptit_ 90
_Putimpt wah lapit_ 12 _Putaptit_ 100
_Putimpt wah mitat_ 13 _Laposhus_ 200
_Putimpt wah pilapt_ 14 _Mitoshus_ 300
_Putimpt wah pahat_ 15 _Pelaposhus_ 400
_Putimpt wah wilaks_ 16 _Pakoshus_ 500
_Putimpt winapt_ 17

TABLE OF DISTANCES FROM INDEPENDENCE,
MISSOURI; AND ST. JOSEPH, TO
OREGON CITY, IN OREGON
TERRITORY

MILES

FROM Independence to Rendezvous 20

" Rendezvous to Elm Grove 13

" Elm Grove to Walkarusha 20

" Walkarusha to crossing of Kansas river 28

" Kansas to crossing of Turkey creek 14

" Turkey creek to Little Vermilion 24

" Little Vermilion to branch of same 12

" To Big Vermilion, with intermediate camps 29

" Vermilion to Lee's branch 8

" Lee's branch to Big Blue 6

" Big Blue to the junction with St. Joseph's trail 10

The distance from St. Joseph, Missouri, to the Independence trail,
striking it ten miles west of Blue river, is about one hundred miles.
Good camps can be had from eight to fifteen miles apart.

From forks of road as above, to Big Sandy, striking
it near its junction with the Republican
Fork of Blue river, with intermediate camps 42

" Sandy to Republican fork of Blue river 18

" up Republican fork, with good camps 53

" Republican fork to Big Platte 20

" up Big Platte to the crossing of South fork 120

Camps can be had at suitable distances, with wood for fuel upon the
islands.

From lower to upper crossings of South fork 45

There is a road on each side of the river, and but little choice in
them.

From South to North fork, at Ash Hollow 20

" Ash Hollow to opposite Solitary Tower, on
Little creek 42

" Little creek to opposite Chimney rock 16

" Chimney Rock to where the road leaves the
River 15

" thence to Scott's Bluffs (Good Spring) 10

" Scott's Bluffs to Horse creek 12

" Horse creek to Fort Laramie 24

" Laramie to Dry Branch and Big Spring 12

" to Bitter Cottonwood 10

To Willow Branch 7

" Horse Shoe Creek 7

" River 8

Thence to where the Road leaves the River 8

To Big Timber creek 16

" Marble creek 5

" Mike's-head creek 12

" the River, crossing several streams 10

" Deer creek 6

Thence to crossing of North fork of Platte 25

From crossing of Platte to Spring 10

Thence to Mineral Springs (bad camp) 8

" Willow Spring (good camp) 5

" Independence Rock on Sweet Water 22

" Devil's Gate 5

Up Sweet Water to South Pass (good camps) 104

Over the dividing ridge to Pacific Spring, the waters
of which run into Green river 5

HERE, HAIL OREGON!

From Spring to Little Sandy 20

Here the road forks, the southern trail going by way of Bridger's Old
Fort, and thence to Bear river. The northern (which is two and a half
days less driving) strikes Green river about forty miles above the
southern trail; I will give the distance on both routes.

The northern route, from Little Sandy to Big Sandy 6

From Big Sandy to Green river 40
(No water and but little grass between.)

" thence to Bear river, (with good camps,) 64

On the southern route:--

From Little Sandy to Big Sandy 12

Down Big Sandy to Green river 24

Cross Green river and down 8

From Green river to Black's fork 15

Up Black's fork to Bridger's Old Fort 30

From Old Fort to Little Muddy (poor camp) 8

" thence to Big Muddy (poor camp) 10

Up Big Muddy to the dividing ridge (good camp
near head of creek) 32

Over dividing ridge to spring 10

From spring to camp on Bear river 6

" thence to where the northern trail comes in 10

To Smith's fork three miles, to Narrows four miles,
and thence to crossing of Bear river three miles 10

Here the road forks; the nearest is to follow up
the creek two miles, cross and then go over the ridge
five miles to foot of Big Hill, where the roads again
unite 7

The other road crosses the river, follows up the bottom about ten miles,
re-crosses and is then about seven miles to junction.

From foot of Big Hill, to top of ridge is about 3

" thence to Big Timber on Bear river 4

Here is a company of American traders and trappers

From Big Timber to Soda Springs 36

" Spring to Soda Pool seven miles, to Spring
Branch three 10

" Spring to Running Branch 9

" thence to foot of hill 8

" foot of hill over dividing ridge and down to
camp 12

" thence to Lewis's river bottom at Springs 18

and to Fort Hall 5

" Fort Hall to the crossing of Portneth 6

" Portneth to American falls 12

" American falls to Levey Creek 15

" thence to Cassia creek, (here the California
trail turns off) 8

" Cassia to Big Marsh 15

" Marsh to River 11

" River to Goose creek four miles, seven miles
to river, and twelve miles to Dry Branch,
(water in pools) 23

To Rocky Creek 8

To crossing of Rocky creek, eight miles, down
to where the road leaves the bluff of creek,
seven 15

" Salmon Falls creek 20

From thence to Salmon falls 6

" Falls to first crossing of Lewis river 23

" crossing to Bois river is about 70

Camps can be had from six to fifteen miles

Down Bois river to Fort Bois (good camps) 46

Cross Lewis river and thence to Malheur 15

" Malheur to Birch creek, about 20

" Birch creek to river three miles, and thence
five miles to Burnt river 8

Up Burnt river about (good camps) 26

From where the road leaves Burnt river, to the lone
pine stump in the bottom of Powder river,
(the last thirteen miles no water) 28

To the crossing of Powder river 10

To Grand Round 15

Across the southern end of Grand Round 7

Up Big Hill and on to Grand Round river 8

Over the Blue Mountains to Lee's encampment 19

To Umatillo river 16

Down Umatillo river 44

" Columbia river to John Day's river 33

From thence to Falls river 22

And thence to the Dalles of the Columbia 16

From the Dalles to Oregon city, by way of wagon
road south of Mount Hood about 160

Upon reaching the Columbia, emigrants should have persons in advance
to select suitable places for camp ground: as the country along the
river is extremely barren, and the grazing limited to small patches.

APPENDIX

LETTER OF THE REV. H. H. SPALDING TO JOEL PALMER

(_Referred to on page 126_ [_our page 233_])

NEZ PERCÉ MISSION, CLEAR WATER RIVER,
_Oregon Territory_, April 7, 1846.

TO JOEL PALMER ESQ. OF INDIANA.

MY DEAR SIR:--Agreeably to your request I most cheerfully give you my views concerning the Oregon territory, its extent, its most desirable climate, fertility of soil, rivers and mountains, seas and bays, and its proximity to one of the most extensive markets opening upon the world.

The Oregon territory is usually divided into three great divisions, the lower, middle, and upper regions. The upper includes the Rocky Mountains, with the head waters of most of the rivers running west and east, north and south, and extends west to the Blue and Spokan ranges of mountains. The lower includes the belt of country bounded on the west by the Pacific, and on the east by the Nesqually, Cascade, and California Mountains. The middle region lies between the two, and embraces probably far the greatest extent of country, and is in some respects the most desirable for settlers.

The number of rainy days, during the winter season, in the lower country, is thought to be about eighty-five one-hundredths; while the number of rainy days during the same season in the upper (or middle) country, is about fifteen one-hundredths. {166} There is but little more snow during the winter season in the middle than in the lower region of the Columbia river, or upon the plains. Of course the depth of snow upon the mountains, depends upon their height.

The lower country is subject to inundations, to a greater or less extent, from the Columbia river, which gathering into standing pools, with the great amount of vegetable decay consequent upon low prairie countries, produces to some extent unhealthy fogs during the summer season. This, however, is greatly moderated by the sea breezes from the Pacific. The middle region is entirely free from these evils, and has probably one of the most pacific, healthy, and every way most desirable climates in the world. This, with its extensive prairies, covered with a superior quality of grass tuft, or bunch grass, which springs fresh twice a year, and spotted and streaked everywhere with springs and streams of the purest, sweetest water, renders it admirably adapted to the herding system. The lower country will ever have greatly the advantage in its proximity to market, its extensive sea coast, and from the fact that it contains one of the largest and best harbors in the world, viz. Puget's sound, running far inland, the mouth of which is protected by Vancouver's island, easy of access at all seasons and under all winds.

But to go into detail. Myself and wife were appointed missionaries by the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, and destined to this field, and with our worthy associates, Dr. Whitman, and lady, arrived in this country in the fall of 1836. The Doctor settled among the Cayuses near fort Wallawalla, and myself at this place, where we have ever since continued to dwell. Our duties have called us to travel more or less every year to visit the distant bands and tribes, as also to pack our supplies. I have traversed this middle region in seventeen different routes, of from 60 to 300 miles. Over many of the routes I have passed probably in every month in the year, have marked the progress of vegetation from its earliest shooting forth; the effects of this climate {167} upon the animal constitution; the rapidity with which exhausted poor animals regain their flesh and activity, when turned upon the plains; and have kept tables under some of these heads, as also a meteorological table for several years.

Let me here observe that my views of the country have been materially changed by a more accurate acquaintance with its true nature. I once thought the valleys only susceptible of habitation; considering the plains too dry for cultivation. But I am now prepared to say this is not the case. The plains suffer far less from drought than the valleys, on account of the reflection of heat from the surrounding hills. The country, however, is nowhere peculiarly subject to drought, as was once thought. My place is one of the deepest valleys, and consequently the most exposed to the reflection from the high bluffs around, which rise from two to three thousand feet; but my farm, though prepared for irrigation, has remained without it for the last four years. I find the ground becomes more moist by cultivation. Three years ago I raised six hundred bushels of shelled corn from six acres, and good crops of wheat on the same piece the two following years, without irrigation. Eight years ago I raised 1500 bushels of potatoes from one acre and a half; measuring some of the bags in which they were brought to the cellars, and so judging of the whole amount. I gave every eleventh bag for digging and fetching, and kept a strict account of what every person brought, so that I was able to make a pretty accurate estimate of the whole amount. My potatoes and corn are always planted in drills.

Every kind of grain or vegetable which I have tried or seen tried in this upper country, grows well. Wheat is sown in the fall, and harvested in June at this place; at Dr. Whitman's in July, being a more open country. Corn is planted in April and ripens in July; peas the same.

EXTENT OF COUNTRY

The southern boundary of Oregon territory is the 42d degree of north latitude. The northern boundary is not yet settled;[222] {168} both England and The United States claim north of the Columbia river to latitude 49°. But this vast fertile region, well timbered upon the mountains and river sources, and well watered, besides having the fine harbor above named, Puget's sound, must ever remain the most important portion of Oregon, especially on account of this harbor, which will naturally control these seas, and consequently the country. Should the British flag finally exclusively wave over its placid waters, it will be to the rest of Oregon as Quebec is to Canada, or Gibraltar to the Mediterranean. Vancouver's Island is doubtless another reason why Great Britain wishes to make the Columbia river her northern boundary. The line of 49° passes a little north of the southern half of the island. The whole island contains a territory considerably larger than England and Scotland, produces every kind of grain and vegetable well, and has a climate very similar to our Middle and Southern states. Whatever nation possesses this island, or the south portion of it, with its neighboring harbor, Puget's sound, possesses nearly all of a national consideration which pertains to Oregon, and will consequently control it. But if this island, or this portion of it, with this harbor, add their ever controlling influence to the undivided interests of Oregon, this young colony, but yesterday begun, and whose country and existence were but yesterday disputed, will at no distant day, under the softening, life-giving influence of civilization and our holy religion, take its place among the wealthiest, happiest, and best nations of the earth.

The country of Oregon, should it extend to 49° north latitude, is probably capable of sustaining as great a population as two-thirds of the territory of the States, and with far less hard labor.

CLIMATE

This is decidedly the inviting characteristic of the country, and is certainly a great inducement for all persons of delicate health. I speak of the middle region. Free from marshes or standing water and vegetable decay, the air is remarkably pure and serene; summers rather warm, especially in the valleys; the mercury ranges, for some time during the hot season, from 100 to 109 degrees above zero. Nights cool, but no fog or dew, except in a few places. Twice since I have been in the country frost has injured vines, leaves, &c., first of May, but never in the fall till late; often my melon vines, &c., are green till the first of December. Four times since I have been here the mercury has fallen below zero; once to 26 degrees. But usually it ranges above 20 in the morning, and above 60 through the day. During six of the ten winters I have passed in the country, the rivers have not been frozen. The Columbia river has been frozen nearly to its mouth, twice since I have been in the country. The snow sometimes falls a foot deep--I should judge about once in five years. About half of my winters here there has been no snow in the valleys, and but little on the plains, except to whiten the earth for a short time. It disappears in a few hours, especially on the south face of the bluffs and hills. Last year I made a collection of flowers and plants, which I purpose to send to Washington. I gathered two flowers in January, on the 22d and 29th,[223] and during the month of February some 40 showed themselves, and by the first of March the grass on the south faces of the bluffs was 14 inches high. This year the season was about three weeks later, judging by the appearance of flowers. I know of no disease that can be said to be peculiar to the country. The country is peculiarly free from sudden changes of weather, or violent storms. Persons who have wintered here from the south, tell me the winters are as mild as the winters {170} in the northern parts of North and South Carolina, and with less sudden changes.

ADVANTAGES FOR THE HERDING SYSTEM

The country is one extensive prairie, except the mountains, which are covered with several species of pine, cedar, and fir. The prairies are rolling, and with the exception of a narrow belt of sand and sedge upon the Columbia, and portions of the Snake river, are everywhere covered with the bunch grass, which, from observation, I judge to be a richer, heartier food for animals than corn, oats, and the best pastures of the States. It is a fine, solid stalk, growing two feet high, with fine leaves, holds its freshness through the winter; I mean the old stalk, which mingled with the young growth, that usually springs fresh in the fall, forms a food for animals through the winter, preferable to the best hay. Horses and oxen perform labor at all seasons upon this grass simply, without the aid of grain; which I now think disposes the animal system to various diseases.

When I pack, I usually travel from thirty-five to forty miles a day, each horse carrying two hundred pounds--rest an hour at noon, without taking down the packs; camp while the sun is yet two hours high; hobble the horses and drive them up in the morning at sunrise. I find that horses will endure such labor for twenty-five or thirty days, resting of course on the Sabbath, upon this grass, without injuring them. Their wind is evidently better than that of horses fed on grain and hay. I have rode from Dr. Whitman's station to this, 125 miles, in nineteen hours, starting at 9 o'clock in the night, and driving a spare horse for change; but this was no advantage, for I find it is more fatiguing to a horse to be drove than to be rode. You doubtless recollect the man who overtook us on the head of Alapausawi, Thursday morning. He had left the Dalles or Long Narrows on the Columbia on Tuesday morning, slept a short time Tuesday night below the Umatillo, passed by Dr. Whitman's station, and slept Wednesday night on the Tukanan, {171} a distance from the Dalles of two hundred and forty miles; and the day he passed us he traveled fifty-five miles more.[224] He rode one horse and drove another for change. You will probably even recollect those horses, as they left us upon the round gallop. A man went from this place, starting late, to Wallawalla, and returned on the third day, sun two hours high, making the journey in about two days and a half. The whole distance traveled was two hundred and fifty miles, and but one horse was used. None of these horses were injured.

Cattle, sheep, horses, and hogs feed out through the winter, and continue fat. We very often kill our beef in March, and always have the very best of meat. Often an ox from the plains, killed in March, yields over one hundred and fifty pounds of tallow. You have seen two specimens, one killed at Dr. Whitman's, and one at this place. Sheep need the care of a shepherd through the winter, to protect the lambs from the prairie wolves. A band of mares should have a good stud that will herd them and protect the colts from the large wolves. Some thirty different kinds of roots grow abundantly upon the plains and bluffs, which, with the grass, furnish the best of food for hogs, and they are always good pork. The south faces of the extensive bluffs and hills are always free from snow, and, cut up into ten thousand little ravines, form the most desirable retreat imaginable for sheep during the winter. Here they have the best of fresh grass, and the young lambs, coming regularly twice a year, are protected from the winds and enlivened by the warm sun. We have a flock of sheep belonging to the Mission, received from the islands eight years ago; there are now about one hundred and fifty. Not one has yet died from disease, a thing of such frequent occurrence in the States. It must certainly become a great wool growing country.

I cannot but contrast the time, labor, and expense requisite to look after herds in this country, with that required in the States, especially in the Northern and Middle States, where two-thirds of every man's time, labor, and money is expended {172} on his animals, in preparing and fencing pasture grounds and meadows, building barns, sheds, stables, and granaries, cutting and securing hay and grains, and feeding and looking to animals through winter. In this country all this is superceded by Nature's own bountiful hand. In this country a single shepherd with his horse and dogs can protect and look after five thousand sheep.[225] A man with his horse and perhaps a dog can easily attend to two thousand head of cattle and horses, without spending a dollar for barns, grain, or hay. Consider the vast amount of labor and expense such a number of animals would require in the States. Were I to select for my friends a location for a healthy happy life, and speedy wealth, it would be this country.

Timber is the great desideratum. But the country of which I am particularly speaking, extending every way perhaps four hundred miles, is everywhere surrounded by low mountains, which are thickly timbered, besides two or three small ridges passing through it; also the rivers Columbia, Snake, Spokan, Paluse, Clear Water, Yankiman, Okanakan, Salmon, Wailua, Tukanan, Wallawalla, Umatillo, John Day's and river De Shutes; and down most of these timber or lumber can be rafted in any quantities. So that but a very small portion of the country will be over ten or fifteen miles from timber; most of it in the immediate vicinity of timber. The numerous small streams which occur every five or six miles, affording most desirable locations for settlements, contain some cotton wood, alder and thorn. But timber is soon grown from sprouts. The streams everywhere run over a stony bottom, while the soil is entirely free from stone. Streams are rapid, affording the best of mill privileges.

MARKET, SEAS AND BAYS

The western shores of Oregon are washed by the placid {173} waters of the Pacific, which bring the 360,000,000 of China, the many millions of the vast Indies and of Australasia, and lay them at our doors with opening hands to receive our produce; which, with the numerous whale ships that literally whiten the Northern Pacific, calling not only for provisions, but harbors to winter in, must ever afford one of the most extensive markets in the world for all kinds of produce, and one concerning which there need be but little fear that it will ever be overstocked. A market compared with which, that offered by western Europe to the eastern section of the United States, will become as a drop to the bucket. The United States' Commercial Agent at Oahu, Sandwich Islands, is desirous to make a contract for a certain amount of provisions to be supplied to American shipping every year at Oregon city; but as yet the supplies of the country over and above the home consumption, are not sufficient to warrant a dependence of our whale shipping upon the country. In fact for many years, while the United States continue to pour their inhabitants by tens of thousands, every year, into this young republic, the home market must continue in competition with the foreign. But the day is not distant when this country, settled by an industrious, virtuous, Sabbath-loving people, governed by wholesome laws, blessed with schools, and the institutions of our holy religion, will hold out abundant encouragements for the numerous whale and merchant ships of the Pacific to leave their heavy lading of three years' supply of provisions at home, and depend upon the market in the immediate vicinity of their fishing grounds. Others following in their track, learning of this new world, and finding out our ample harbors, soon this little obscure point upon the map of the world will become a second North American Republic--her commerce whitening every sea, and her crowded ports fanned by the flags of every nation. From this upper country, a distance of three hundred or four hundred miles, droves of cattle and sheep can be driven to the lower portions of the Columbia river, {174} with far less expense and labor than they are driven the same distances in the States, always being in the midst of grass upon which they may feed every night without charge.

The principal harbors are Puget's Sound, mouths of Columbia, Frazier's, Shahales, Umpqua, Rose and Clamet rivers.[226] Doubtless others will be discovered, as the country becomes more known. A dangerous bar extends nearly across the mouth of the Columbia, leaving but a narrow obscure channel, difficult of access or egress, except with favorable winds. Vessels sometimes find it impossible to enter the river by reason of contrary winds; and sometimes are detained in the river two or three months, there not being sea room enough to go out against a head wind. This difficulty could be greatly obviated, and perhaps removed, by a pilot boat. Concerning the other rivers I have no certain knowledge, but have been informed that some of them are navigable for vessels from forty to sixty miles, and afford convenient harbors. Puget's Sound, as before observed, is one of the safest and best harbors in the world, it can be entered or left under any winds and at any season of the year. The scenery around is said to be most enchanting. Two lakes near sending off a small stream of pure water. A considerable river runs into the sound, making a fall of some twenty-five feet just as it plunges into the sea, affording the opportunity of building mills upon the wharfs.

But very little has been known by Americans concerning the extensive country north of the Columbia, till last winter. I have several times been told by British subjects that the countries bordering on Frazier's river and Puget's Sound were too sterile for cultivation, and but poor crops could be raised on the Cowlitz. Whereas, the exploring party who left Oregon city, last winter, report that they found a very extensive country north of the Columbia river, of apparently good soil, well timbered with pine and oak, and well watered with the following rivers and their tributaries, viz.: the Cowlitz, emptying into the Columbia river from the north; the Shahales, {175} running into a small bay north of the Columbia river; the Nesqualla, rising near the source of the Cowlitz, and running north into Puget's Sound; Frazier's river north of this, and several smaller ones not named.

On the Cowlitz, Nesqualla and Frazier's rivers, the Hudson Bay Company have large establishments, and are producing vast quantities of wool, beef, pork, and all kinds of grain, for British whale ships which frequent the harbors. Besides these establishments, they have extensive farms and herds at Vancouver, in the Willamette valley and Colvile, and trading posts on Vancouver island, and at the mouth of the Columbia river, Umpqua, Vancouver, Wallawalla, Okanakan and Colvile, Boise and fort Hall, with very many at the north. Some of these are strongly fortified, and are being well supplied with cannon and other munitions of war, by almost every ship that arrives. So I have been informed by persons from these ships.

With the extensive valley watered by the Willamette and its numerous tributaries, you are better acquainted than myself, as I have never visited that country. I cannot, however, deny myself the pleasure of expressing my opinion of the country, formed from information derived yearly from scores of persons who have dwelt long in, or traveled more or less through its extensive territory, at all seasons of the year.

On the west the great valley is separated from the Pacific by a low range of well timbered mountains, that give rise to numerous streams and small rivers, some of which are lately found sufficient to admit vessels. On the east it is bounded by the Cascade or President's range, everywhere abounding with white pine and cedar. The Willamette river rises in latitude 42° and runs north and empties itself into the Columbia river 85 miles above its mouth. The falls of the Willamette are about thirty miles above its mouth, and must ever add a vast interest to the country. The power for mills and machinery that may be erected on each side of the river, and on the island in the middle of the falls, is adequate for almost any conceivable demand.

{176} Oregon city, situated at the falls on the east side of the river, contains over five hundred souls, about eighty houses, viz.: two churches, two blacksmith shops, one cooper shop, two cabinet shops, four tailor shops, one hatter's shop, one tannery, three shoe shops, two silver smiths, four stores, two taverns, two flouring and two saw mills, and a lathe machine. Directly opposite, on the west side, are two towns laid out, and buildings are going up. The face of the country in the Willamette valley is rolling, very equally divided into prairie and timbered countries, with frequent oak openings. Wheat produces well; corn, potatoes, &c. produce well in some places, and probably would everywhere do well with good cultivation; soil everywhere considered of a superior quality. Less snow during the winter season than in the middle district, but much more rain, with fogs, on the low lands during the summer, which render the country less healthy than this middle region; but still the country cannot be considered an unhealthy country. The face of the country is everywhere covered with bunch grass,[227] and animals feed out through the winter, as in the middle region.

The rivers Umpqua, Rose and Clamet, which empty into the Pacific, south of the Columbia, are said to water extensive fertile countries; but as yet very little is known of these regions. Ships come up the Willamette river within a few miles of Oregon city. Concerning the road for wagons commenced south of Mount Hood, and which is to be completed this summer, to be in readiness for the next emigration, you are better acquainted than myself.