Chapter XII: The Island of Gothland and Town of Visby

“In the days of old,” says the saga, “a fair and beautiful island, low and dim, floated on the sea by night, and the people beheld it as they sailed to and fro; but each morning at sunrise it disappeared beneath the waves, until the waning twilight had come again, when it would rise and float over the surface of the Östersjön (Baltic) as before.”

No one dared to land upon it, though the belief was general that it would become fixed if a fire was lighted there.

Thjelvar, with his men, finally landed in a little bay of the floating island, and lighted a fire, and the island became stationary. The name of this daring man, Thjelvar, means “the Industrious.”

Those with him seemed to be possessed with the same spirit, for in a short time they were building ships and trading with every part of Europe. They soon became wealthy, not only by fair means but also by foul, as they did not hesitate to plunder whenever they had an opportunity. Their forays led to reprisals. Their wealth excited envy. They did not feel strong enough of themselves, and, as Sweden was the nearest country, they proposed to put themselves under her protection, and sent an ambassador to negotiate. When he arrived at Upsala, then the capital of Sweden, the King and Queen were sitting at meat. He was not received at once, nor even asked to sit down. After he had been standing some time at the entrance, the King said: “What news from Gothland?” “Nothing,” replied the ambassador, “except that a mare on the island has foaled three colts at a birth.” “Ah,” said the King, “what does the third colt do when the other two are sucking?” “He does as I do,” replied the ambassador, “He stands and looks on.” Thereupon the King laughed loudly, and invited the ambassador to share the meal. In the end a treaty was arranged, and Gothland became a part of Sweden.

This was in 890. In 1030 Olaf compelled the inhabitants of the island to become Christian, and be baptized, but by this time a city had sprung up where the heathens of old used to offer up sacrifices. This city was named Visby, “the city of the place of sacrifice.” It is situated on the west side of the island, and gradually rose in importance, until it became the chief trading centre of Europe. There was a great trade with Russia, and by means of the rivers of that country the treasures of the East were brought to Visby. The fame and the stories of her wealth and commerce spread far and wide. Soon merchants came from all parts of Europe to share her wealth. Very many of them removed their business entirely to Visby.

The wealth of the city was fabulous. The common saying was that the merchants used to weigh their gold with 20 pound weights, and play with choicest jewels. The women spun with silver distaffs. The pigs ate out of silver troughs.

Their houses, of which many are remaining to this day, were narrow and lofty, with their gable-ends to the streets. Their rooms were large with high ceilings, and most beautifully decorated. In one house can be seen a room with walls and roof completely covered with scenes from the Bible. The doors in many cases were made of copper, and the window-frames gilded.

The merchants lived most luxuriously, and were most exclusive in their social life. No artisans, except bakers and goldsmiths, were allowed to live within the city walls.

Their wealth and commerce gave them great authority, so that their sea-laws were adopted by European countries generally. They form the basis of the laws of the sea of the present day.

These were rough times, when might was right, and the inhabitants of Visby had always to be prepared for an attack upon the city, for the surrounding nations looked upon her wealth with an envious eye. One of the sorest experiences she had to undergo was at the hand of King Waldemar of Denmark. He defeated them in battle, tore down a part of the walls, entered with his army in battle array, and, placing three very large ale-vats in the square, commanded that these be filled with gold and silver within three hours. This was done with remarkable rapidity, and King Waldemar sailed with his gold and silver, as well as much spoil from the churches. The booty, however, never reached Denmark, as the vessels carrying it foundered in a storm. From this hour Visby began to decline in importance, and is now known chiefly as a summer resort and haunt of tourists who wish to learn something of this medieval town.

Notwithstanding all their love of wealth, the inhabitants of Visby did not seem to be stingy in giving to the Church, as no less than sixteen churches were built. All still exist, but are in ruins except one, the Cathedral or St. Mary’s Church which is quite complete. They are all large buildings. In the great square can be seen the Church of St. Catherine, which belonged to the abbey of a Franciscan Order. In the nave are twelve pillars, not in a straight line. They make a lasting impression on the visitor, they are so delicate in their tracery and overgrown with the ivy and the vine. The roof of the chancel has fallen, and now only the arches which unite the pillars to each other and to the outer walls remain.

Not very far from here are seen two churches. They are called _syskonkyrkorna_, or sister-churches, built side by side. They each possess immense towers, which are supposed to have been fitted up at one time for defence. If the story is true, the sisters did not love one another; indeed, it is said that they hated one another so much that they could not worship God in the same church, and each had to have a separate place of worship built for herself.

The largest of all the churches is St. Nicholas. On the western gable of it can be seen two twelve-leaved rosette-like bricks. They look like windows. In the centre of each, tradition says, were set most precious carbuncle stones, that shone in the dark like fire. These served as guides to the sailors on the Baltic. Soldiers guarded them night and day, and no one was allowed to approach them after sunset on pain of death. King Waldemar, when he sacked Visby, removed the sacred carbuncles. Over the spot where the ship that conveyed them went down, a remarkable gleam is said to be seen. The Gothland fishermen say that it is the radiance of the carbuncles now lying in the depths of the sea.

Another remarkable feature of Visby is the city wall. It completely encircles the city, and is the only example in Scandinavia that has lasted to our time. It dates from early in the thirteenth century. It was gradually made stronger by adding to its height and its thickness, and also by building thirty-six towers, two to guard each gate. Many of these have a name. The powder-tower was named Silfverhättan (Silver-cap). Its shining roof is now replaced by dull tiles. One is used as a prison, and is named “Cæsar.” Another is called Jungfru Tornet (the Maiden’s Tower). It is said that a young girl betrayed this city to King Waldemar. As a punishment she was built into the wall of the tower. Near a gate on the south side of the city can be seen a cross put up to the memory of the 1,800 men of Visby who were killed when that King took the city. On it is an inscription in Latin, still legible--“In the year 1361, the Tuesday after St. James’s day, the Gothlanders fell before the gates of Visby by the hands of the Danes. They lie buried here. Pray for them.”