Chapter I: Preface

A word or two of necessary explanation, dear reader.

I had resided on the Continent for several years, and had been a year in England, without being suspected, I believe, in the societies in which I lived, of any habit of authorship. No production of mine had ever crossed the water, and my Letters to the New-York Mirror, were (for this long period, and I presumed would be forever), as far as European readers were concerned, an unimportant and easy secret. Within a few months of returning to this country, the Quarterly Review came out with a severe criticism on the Pencillings by the Way, published in the New-York Mirror. A London publisher immediately procured a broken set of this paper from an American resident there, and called on me with an offer of L300 for an immediate edition of what he had--rather less than one half of the Letters in this present volume. This chanced on the day before my marriage, and I left immediately for Paris--a literary friend most kindly undertaking to look over the proofs, and suppress what might annoy any one then living in London. The book was printed in three volumes, at about $7 per copy, and in this expensive shape three editions were sold by the original publisher. After his death a duodecimo edition was put forth, very beautifully illustrated; and this has been followed by a fifth edition lately published, with new embellishments, by Mr. Virtue. The only American edition (long ago out of print) was a literal copy of this imperfect and curtailed book.

In the present complete edition, the Letters objected to by the Quarterly, are, like the rest, re-published _as originally written_. The offending portions must be at any rate, harmless, after being circulated extensively in this country in the Mirror, and prominently quoted from the Mirror in the Quarterly--and this being true, I have felt that I could gratify the wish to be put _fairly on trial_ for these alleged offences--to have a comparison instituted between my sins, in this respect, and Hamilton's, Muskau's, Von Raumer's, Marryat's and Lockhart's--and so, to put a definite value and meaning upon the constant and vague allusions to these iniquities, with which the critiques of my contemporaries abound. I may state as a fact, that the only instance in which a quotation by me from the conversation of distinguished men gave the least offence in England, was the one remark made by Moore the poet at a dinner party, on the subject of O'Connell. It would have been harmless, as it was designed to be, but for the unexpected celebrity of my Pencillings; yet with all my heart I wished it unwritten.

I wish to put on record in this edition (and you need not be at the trouble of perusing them unless you please, dear reader!) an extract or two from the London prefaces to "Pencillings," and parts of two articles written apropos of the book's offences.

The following is from the Preface to the first London edition:--

"The extracts from these Letters which have appeared in the public prints, have drawn upon me much severe censure. Admitting its justice in part, perhaps I may shield myself from its remaining excess by a slight explanation. During several years' residence in Continental and Eastern countries, I have had opportunities (as _attache_ to a foreign Legation), of seeing phases of society and manners not usually described in books of travel. Having been the Editor, before leaving the United States, of a monthly Review, I found it both profitable and agreeable, to continue my interest in the periodical in which that Review was merged at my departure, by a miscellaneous correspondence. Foreign courts, distinguished men, royal entertainments, &c. &c.,--matters which were likely to interest American readers more particularly--have been in turn my themes. The distance of America from these countries, and the ephemeral nature and usual obscurity of periodical correspondence, were a sufficient warrant to my mind, that the descriptions would die where they first saw the light, and fulfil only the trifling destiny for which they were intended. I indulged myself, therefore, in a freedom of detail and topic which is usual only in posthumous memoirs--expecting as soon that they would be read in the countries and by the persons described, as the biographer of Byron and Sheridan, that these fruitful and unconscious themes would rise from the dead to read their own interesting memoirs! And such a resurrection would hardly be a more disagreeable surprise to that eminent biographer, than was the sudden appearance to me of my own unambitious Letters in the Quarterly Review.

"The reader will see (for every Letter containing the least personal detail has been most industriously republished in the English papers) that I have in some slight measure corrected these Pencillings by the Way. They were literally what they were styled--notes written on the road, and despatched without a second perusal; and it would be extraordinary if, between the liberty I felt with my material, and the haste in which I scribbled, some egregious errors in judgment and taste had not crept in unawares. The Quarterly has made a long arm over the water to refresh my memory on this point. There _are_ passages I would not re-write, and some remarks on individuals which I would recall at some cost, and would not willingly see repeated in these volumes. Having conceded thus much, however, I may express my surprise that this particular sin should have been visited upon _me_, at a distance of three thousand miles, when the reviewer's own literary fame rests on the more aggravated instance of a book of personalities, published under the very noses of the persons described. Those of my Letters which date from England were written within three or four months of my first arrival in this country. Fortunate in my introductions, almost embarrassed with kindness, and, from advantages of comparison, gained by long travel, qualified to appreciate keenly the delights of English society, I was little disposed to find fault. Everything pleased me. Yet in one instance--one single instance--I indulged myself in stricture upon individual character, and I _repeat it in this work_, sure that there will be but one person in the world of letters who will not read it with approbation--the editor of the _Quarterly_ himself. It was expressed at the time with no personal feeling, for I had never seen the individual concerned, and my name had probably never reached his ears. I but repeated what I had said a thousand times, and never without an indignant echo to its truth--an opinion formed from the most dispassionate perusal of his writings--that the editor of that Review was the most unprincipled critic of his age. Aside from its flagrant literary injustice, we owe to the _Quarterly_, it is well known, every spark of ill-feeling that has been kept alive between England and America for the last twenty years. The sneers, the opprobrious epithets of this bravo in literature, have been received in a country where the machinery of reviewing was not understood, as the voice of the English people, and an animosity for which there was no other reason, has been thus periodically fed and exasperated. I conceive it to be my duty as a literary man--I _know_ it is my duty as an American--to lose no opportunity of setting my heel on the head of this reptile of criticism."

The following is part of an article, written by myself, on the subject of personalities, for a periodical in New York:

"There is no question, I believe, that pictures of living society, where society is in very high perfection, and of living persons, where they are 'persons of mark,' are both interesting to ourselves, and valuable to posterity. What would we not give for a description of a dinner with Shakspeare and Ben Jonson--of a dance with the Maids of Queen Elizabeth--of a chat with Milton in a morning call? We should say the man was a churl, who, when he had the power, should have refused to 'leave the world a copy' of such precious hours. Posterity will decide who are the great of our time--but they are at least _among_ those I have heard talk, and have described and quoted, and who would read without interest, a hundred years hence, a character of the second Virgin Queen, caught as it was uttered in a ball-room of her time? or a description of her loveliest Maid of Honor, by one who had stood opposite her in a dance, and wrote it before he slept? or a conversation with Moore or Bulwer?--when the Queen and her fairest maid, and Moore and Bulwer have had their splendid funerals, and are dust, like Elizabeth and Shakspeare?

"The harm, if harm there be in such sketches, is in the spirit in which they are done. If they are ill-natured or untrue, or if the author says aught to injure the feelings of those who have admitted him to their confidence or hospitality, he is to blame, and it is easy, since he publishes while his subjects are living, to correct his misrepresentations, and to visit upon him his infidelities of friendship.

"But (while I think of it), perhaps some fault-finder will be pleased to tell me, why this is so much deeper a sin in _me_ than in all other travellers. Has Basil Hall any hesitation in describing a dinner party in the United States, and recording the conversation at table? Does Miss Martineau stick at publishing the portrait of a distinguished American, and faithfully recording all he says in a confidential _tete-a-tete_? Have Captain Hamilton and Prince Pukler, Von Raumer and Captain Marryat, any scruples whatever about putting down anything they hear that is worth the trouble, or of describing any scene, private or public, which would tell in their book, or illustrate a national peculiarity? What would their books be without this class of subjects? What would any book of travels be, leaving out everybody the author saw, and all he heard? Not that I justify all these authors have done in this way, for I honestly think they have stepped over the line, which I have but trod close upon."

Surely it is the _abuse_, and not the _use_ of information thus acquired, that makes the offence.

The most formal, unqualified, and severe condemnation recorded against my Pencillings, however, is that of the renowned Editor of the Quarterly, and to show the public the immaculate purity of the forge where this long-echoed thunder is manufactured, I will quote a passage or two from a book of the same description, by the Editor of the Quarterly himself. 'Peter's Letters to his Kinsfolk,' by Mr. Lockhart, are three volumes exclusively filled with portraits of persons, living at the time it was written in Scotland, their conversation with the author, their manners, their private histories, etc., etc. In one of the letters upon the 'Society of Edinburgh,' is the following delicate passage:--

"'Even you, my dear Lady Johnes, are a perfect history in every branch of knowledge. I remember, only the last time I saw you, you were praising with all your might the legs of Col. B----, those flimsy, worthless things that look as if they were bandaged with linen rollers from the heel to the knee. You may say what you will, but I still assert, and I will prove it if you please by pen and pencil, that, with one pair of exceptions, the best legs in Cardigan are Mrs. P----'s. As for Miss J---- D----'s, I think they are frightful.'...

"Two pages farther on he says:--

"'As for myself, I assure you that ever since I spent a week at Lady L----'s and saw those great fat girls of hers, waltzing every night with that odious De B----, I can not endure the very name of the thing.'

"I quote from the second edition of these letters, by which it appears that even these are _moderated_ passages. A note to the first of the above quotations runs as follows:

"'A great part of this letter is omitted in the Second Edition in consequence of the displeasure its publication gave to certain ladies in Cardiganshire. As for the gentleman who chose to take what I said of him in so much dudgeon, he will observe, that I have allowed what I said to remain _in statu quo_, which I certainly should not have done, had he expressed his resentment in a proper manner.'

"So well are these unfortunate persons' names known by those who read the book in England, that in the copy which I have from a circulating library, they are all filled out in pencil. And I would here beg the reader to remark that these are private individuals, compelled by no literary or official distinction to come out from their privacy and figure in print, and in this, if not in the _taste_ and _quality_ of my descriptions, I claim a fairer escutcheon than my self-elected judge--for where is a person's name recorded in my letters who is not either by tenure of public office, or literary, or political distinction, a theme of daily newspaper comment, and of course fair game for the traveller.

"I must give one more extract from Mr. Lockhart's book, an account of a dinner with a private merchant of Glasgow.

"'I should have told you before, that I had another visiter early in the morning, besides Mr. H. This was a Mr. P----, a respectable merchant of the place, also an acquaintance of my friend W----. He came before H----, and after professing himself very sorry that his avocations would not permit him to devote his forenoon to my service, he made me promise to dine with him.... My friend soon joined me, and observing from the appearance of my countenance that I was contemplating the scene with some disgust,' (the Glasgow Exchange) 'My good fellow,' said he, 'you are just like every other well-educated stranger that comes into this town; you can not endure the first sight of us mercantile whelps. Do not, however, be alarmed; I will not introduce you to any of these cattle at dinner. No, sir! You must know that there are a few men of refinement and polite information in this city. I have warned two or three of these _rarae aves_, and depend upon it, you shall have a very snug _day's work_.' So saying he took my arm, and observing that five was _just on the chap_, hurried me through several streets and lanes till we arrived in the ----, where his house is situated. His wife was, I perceived, quite the fine lady, and, withal, a little of the blue stocking. Hearing that I had just come from Edinburgh, she remarked that Glasgow would be seen to much more disadvantage after that elegant city. 'Indeed,' said she, 'a person of taste, must, of course, find many disagreeables connected with a residence in such a town as this; but Mr. P----'s business renders the thing necessary for the present, and one can not make a silk purse of a sow's ear--he, he, he!' Another lady of the company, carried this affectation still farther; she pretended to be quite ignorant of Glasgow and its inhabitants, although she had lived among them the greater part of her life, and, by the by, seemed no chicken. I was afterward told by my friend Mr. H----, that this damsel had in reality sojourned a winter or two in Edinburgh, in the capacity of _lick-spittle_ or _toad-eater_ to a lady of quality, to whom she had rendered herself amusing by a malicious tongue; and that during this short absence, she had embraced the opportunity of utterly forgetting everything about the West country.

"'The dinner was excellent, although calculated apparently for forty people rather than sixteen, which last number sat down. While the ladies remained in the room, there was such a noise and racket of coarse mirth, ill restrained by a few airs of sickly sentiment on the part of the hostess, that I really could neither attend to the wine nor the dessert; but after a little time a very broad hint from a fat Falstaff, near the foot of the table, apparently quite a privileged character, thank Heaven! sent the ladies out of the room. The moment after which blessed consummation, the butler and footman entered, as if by instinct, the one with a huge punch bowl, _the other with, &c._'"

I do thank Heaven that there is no parallel in my own letters to either of these three extracts. It is a thing of course that there is not. They are violations of hospitality, social confidence, and delicacy, of which even my abusers will allow me incapable. Yet this man accuses me of all these things, and so runs criticism!

And to this I add (to conclude this long Preface) some extracts from a careful review of the work in the North American:--

"'Pencillings by the Way,' is a very spirited book. The letters out of which it is constructed, were written originally for the New-York 'Mirror,' and were not intended for distinct publication. From this circumstance, the author indulged in a freedom of personal detail, which we must say is wholly unjustifiable, and we have no wish to defend it. This book does not pretend to contain any profound observations or discussions on national character, political condition, literature, or even art. It would be obviously impossible to carry any one of these topics thoroughly out, without spending vastly more time and labor upon it than a rambling poet is likely to have the inclination to do. In fact, there are very few men, who are qualified, by the nature of their previous studies, to do this with any degree of edification to their readers. But a man of general intellectual culture, especially if he have the poetical imagination superadded, may give us rapid sketches of other countries, which will both entertain and instruct us. Now this book is precisely such a one as we have here indicated. The author travelled through Europe, mingling largely in society, and visited whatever scenes were interesting to him as an American, a scholar, and a poet. The impressions which these scenes made upon his mind, are described in these volumes; and we must say, we have rarely fallen in with a book of a more sprightly character, a more elegant and graceful style, and full of more lively descriptions. The delineations of manners are executed with great tact; and the shifting pictures of natural scenery pass before us as we read, exciting a never-ceasing interest. As to the personalities which have excited the wrath of British critics, we have, as we said before, no wish to defend them; but a few words upon the tone, temper, and motives, of those gentlemen, in their dealing with our author, will not, perhaps, be considered inappropriate.

"It is a notorious fact, that British criticism, for many years past, has been, to a great extent, free from all the restraints of a regard to literary truth. Assuming the political creed of an author, it would be a very easy thing to predict the sort of criticism his writings would meet with, in any or all of the leading periodicals of the kingdom. This tendency has been carried so far, that even discussions of points in ancient classical literature have been shaped and colored by it. Thus, Aristophanes' comedies are turned against modern democracy, and Pindar, the Theban Eagle, has been unceremoniously classed with British Tories, by the London Quarterly. Instead of inquiring 'What is the author's object? How far has he accomplished it? How far is that object worthy of approbation?'--three questions that are essential to all just criticism; the questions put by English Reviewers are substantially 'What party does he belong to? Is he a Whig, Tory, Radical, or is he an American?' And the sentence in such cases depends on the answer to them. Even where British criticism is favorable to an American author, its tone is likely to be haughty and insulting; like the language of a condescending city gentleman toward some country cousin, whom he is kind enough to honor with his patronage.

"Now, to critics of this sort, Mr. Willis was a tempting mark. No one can for a moment believe that the London Quarterly, Frazer's Magazine, and Captain Marryat's monthly, are honest in the language they hold toward Mr. Willis. Motives, wide enough from a love of truth, guided the conduct of these journals. The editor of the London Quarterly, it is well known, is the author of 'Peter's Letters to his Kinsfolk,' a work full of personalities, ten times more objectionable than anything to be found in the 'Pencillings.' Yet this same editor did not blush to write and print a long and most abusive tirade upon the American traveller, for doing what he had himself done to a much greater and more reprehensible extent; and, to cap the climax of inconsistency, republished in his journal the very personalities, names and all, which had so shocked his delicate sensibilities. It is much more likely that a disrespectful notice of the London Quarterly and its editor, in these 'Pencillings,' was the source from which this bitterness flowed, than that any sense of literary justice dictated the harsh review. Another furious attack on Mr. Willis's book appeared in the monthly journal, under the editorial management of Captain Marryat, the author of a series of very popular sea novels. Whoever was the author of that article, ought to be held disgraced in the opinions of all honorable men. It is the most extraordinary tissue of insolence and coarseness, with one exception, that we have ever seen, in any periodical which pretended to respectability of literary character. It carries its grossness to the intolerable length of attacking the private character of Mr. Willis, and throwing out foolish sneers about his birth and parentage. It is this article which led to the well-known correspondence, between the American Poet and the British Captain, ending in a hostile meeting. It is to be regretted that Mr. Willis should so far forget the principles of his New England education, as to participate in a duel. We regard the practice with horror; we believe it not only wicked, but absurd. We can not possibly see how, Mr. Willis's tarnished fame could be brightened by the superfluous work of putting an additional quantity of lead into the gallant captain. But there is, perhaps, no disputing about tastes; and, bad as we think the whole affair was, no candid man can read the correspondence without feeling that Mr. Willis's part of it, is infinitely superior to the captain's, in style, sense, dignity of feeling, and manly honor.

"But, to return to the work from which we have been partially drawn aside. Its merits in point of style are unquestionable. It is written in a simple, vigorous, and highly descriptive form of English, and rivets the reader's attention throughout. There are passages in it of graphic eloquence, which it would be difficult to surpass from the writings of any other tourist, whatever. The topics our author selects, are, as has been already stated, not those which require long and careful study to appreciate and discuss; they are such as the poetic eye would naturally dwell upon, and a poetic hand rapidly delineate, in a cursory survey of foreign lands. Occasionally, we think, Mr. Willis enters too minutely into the details of the horrible. Some of his descriptions of the cholera, and the pictures he gives us of the catacombs of the dead, are ghastly. But the manners of society he draws with admirable tact; and personal peculiarities of distinguished men, he renders with a most life-like vivacity. Many of his descriptions of natural scenery are more like pictures, than sketches in words. The description of the Bay of Naples will occur as a good example.

"It would be impossible to point out, with any degree of particularity, the many passages in this book whose beauty deserves attention. But it may be remarked in general, that the greater part of the first volume is not so fresh and various, and animated, as the second. This we suppose arises partly from the fact that France and Italy have long been beaten ground.

"The last part of the book is a statement of the author's observations upon English life and society; and it is this portion, which the English critics affect to be so deeply offended with. The most objectionable passage in this is the account of a dinner at Lady Blessington's. Unquestionably Mr. Moore's remarks about Mr. O'Connell ought not to have been reported, considering the time when, and the place where, they were uttered; though they contain nothing new about the great Agitator, the secrets disclosed being well known to some millions of people who interest themselves in British politics, and read the British newspapers. We close our remarks on this work by referring our readers to a capital scene on board a Scotch steamboat, and a breakfast at Professor Wilson's, the famous editor of Blackwood, both in the second volume, which we regret our inability to quote."

"Every impartial reader must confess, that for so young a man, Mr. Willis has done much to promote the reputation of American literature. His position at present is surrounded with every incentive to a noble ambition. With youth and health to sustain him under labor; with much knowledge of the world acquired by travel and observation, to draw upon; with a mature style, and a hand practised in various forms of composition, Mr. Willis's genius ought to take a wider and higher range than it has ever done before. We trust we shall meet him again, ere long, in the paths of literature; and we trust that he will take it kindly, if we express the hope, that he will lay aside those tendencies to exaggeration, and to an unhealthy tone of sentiment, which mar the beauty of some of his otherwise most agreeable books."

CONTENTS.

PAGE
LETTER I.

Getting under Way--The Gulf Stream--Aspect of the Ocean--
Formation of a Wave--Sea Gems--The Second Mate, 11

LETTER II.

A Dog at Sea--Dining, with a High Sea--Sea Birds--Tandem of
Whales--Speaking a Man-of-War--Havre, 18

LETTER III.

Havre--French Bed-room--The Cooking--Chance Impressions, 25

LETTER IV.

Pleasant Companion--Normandy--Rouen--Eden of Cultivation--St.
Denis--Entrance to Paris--Lodgings--Walk of Discovery--Palais
Royal, 30

LETTER V.

Gallery of the Louvre--Greenough--Feeling as a Foreigner--
Solitude in the Louvre--Louis Philippe--The Poles--Napoleon
II, 40

LETTER VI.

Taglioni--French Acting--French Applause--Leontine Fay, 48

LETTER VII.

Lelewel--Pere La Chaise--Pauvre Marie--Versailles--The
Trianons--Josephine's Boudoir--Time and Money at Paris--Wives
and Fuel--One Price Shops, 53

LETTER VIII.

Mr. Cooper--Mr. Greenough--Fighting Animals--The Dog Pit--
Fighting Donkey--Sporting Englishmen, 63

LETTER IX.

Malibran--Paris at a Late Hour--Glass Gallery--Cloud and
Sunshine--General Romarino--Parisian Students--Tumult Ended, 70

LETTER X.

French Children--Royal Equipages--French Driving--City
Riding--Parisian Picturesque--Beggar's Deception--Genteel
Beggars, 78

LETTER XI.

Madame Mars--Franklin's House--Ball for the Poor--Theatrical
Splendor--Louis Philippe--Duke of Orleans--Young Queen of
Portugal--Don Pedro--Close of the Ball, 86

LETTER XII.

Champs Elysees--Louis Philippe--Literary Dinner--Bowring and
others--The Poles--Dr. Howe's Mission, 96

LETTER XIII.

Club Gambling House--Frascati's--Female Gambler, 103

LETTER XIV.

Tuileries--Men of Mark--Cooper and Morse--Contradictions--
Dinner Hour--How to Dine Well, 107

LETTER XV.

The Emperor--Turenne--Lady Officer--Gambling Quarrel--Curious
Antagonists--Influence of Paris, 114

LETTER XVI.

Cholera Gaieties--Cholera Patient--Morning in Paris--Cholera
Hospital--New Patient--Physician's Indifference--Punch
Remedy--Dead Room--Non-Contagion, 121

LETTER XVII.

Unexpected Challenge--Court Presentation--Louis Philippe--
Royal Family at Tea--Countess Guiccioli--Mardi Gras--Bal
Costume--Public Masks--Lady Cavalier--Ball at the Palace--
Duke of Orleans--Dr. Bowring--Celebrated Men--Glass Verandah, 131

LETTER XVIII.

Cholera--Social Tea Party--Recipe for Caution--Baths and
Happiness, 146

LETTER XIX.

Bois de Boulogne--Guiccioli--Sismondi--Cooper, 151

LETTER XX.

Friend of Lady Morgan--Dr. Spurzheim--Cast-Taking--De
Potter--David the Sculptor, 156

LETTER XXI.

Attractions of Paris--Mr. Cooper--Mr. Rives, 162

LETTER XXII.

Chalons--Sens--Auxerre--St. Bris--Three Views In One--
Chalons, 166

LETTER XXIII.

Boat on the Saone--Scenery above Lyons--Lyons--Churches at
Lyons--Monastery, 173

LETTER XXIV.

Travelling Party--Breakfast on the Road--Localities of
Antiquity--Picturesque Chateau--French Patois, 179

LETTER XXV.

Arles--The Cathedral--Marseilles--Parting with Companions--
Pass of Ollioules--Toulon--Antibes--Coast of Mediterranean--
Forced to Return--Lazaretto--Absurd Hindrances--Fear of
Contagion--Sleep out of Doors--Lazaretto Occupations--
Delicious Sunday--New Arrivals--Companions--End of
Quarantine, 185

LETTER XXVI.

Nice--Funeral of an Arch-Duchess--Nice to Genoa--Views--
Entrance to Genoa--Genoa, 204

LETTER XXVII.

The Venus--The Fornarina--A Coquette and the Arts--A
Festa--Ascension Day--The Cascine--Madame Catalani, 211

LETTER XXVIII.

Titian's Bella--The Grand-Duchess--An Improvisatrice--Living
in Florence--Lodgings at Florence--Expense of Living, 219

LETTER XXIX.

Companions--Scenery of Romagna--Wives--Bologna, 225

LETTER XXX.

Gallery at Bologna--A Guido--Churches--Confession--Chapel--
Festa--Agreeable Manners, 231

LETTER XXXI.

Regatta--Venetian Sunset--Privileged Admission--Guillotining--
Bridge of Sighs--San Marc--The Nobleman Beggar, 238

LETTER XXXII.

An Evening in Venice--The Streets of Venice--The Rialto--
Sunset from San Marc, 246

LETTER XXXIII.

Titian's Pictures--Last Day in Venice, 251

LETTER XXXIV.

Italian Civility--Juliet's Tomb--The Palace of the
Capuletti--A Dinner, 254

LETTER XXXV.

Good and Ill-Breeding--Bridal Party, 259

LETTER XXXVI.

Manner of Living--Originals of Novels--Ill, 262

LETTER XXXVII.

The Duke of Lucca--Modena--The Palace--Bologna--Venice
Again--Its Splendor, 266

LETTER XXXVIII.

Armenian Island--Agreeable Monk--Insane Hospital--Insane
Patients--The Lagune--State Galley--Instruments of Torture, 273

LETTER XXXIX.

Venice at Evening--The Patriotism of a Noble--Church of St.
Antony--Petrarch's Cottage and Tomb--Petrarch's Room, 281

LETTER XL.

Cultivation of the Fields--The Vintage--Malibran in Gazza
Ladra--Gallery of the Lambaccari, 287

LETTER XLI.

Sienna--Catholic Devotion--Acquapendente--Lake Bolsena--
Vintage Festa--Monte Cimino--First Sight of Rome--Baccano, 292

LETTER XLII.

St. Peter's--The Apollo Belvidere--Raphael's
Transfiguration--The Pantheon--The Forum, 301

LETTER XLIII.

The Falls of Tivoli--Villa of Adrian--A Ramble by Moonlight--
The Cloaca Maxima, 307

LETTER XLIV.

The Last Judgment--The Music--Gregory the Sixteenth, 312

LETTER XLV.

Byron's Statue--The Borghese Palace--Society of Rome, 316

LETTER XLVI.

The Climate--Falls of Terni--The Clitumnus--A Lesson not
Lost--Thrasimene--Florence--Florentine Women--Need of an
Ambassador, 320

LETTER XLVII.

Chat in the Ante-Chamber--Love in High Life--Ball at the
Palazzo Pitti--The Grand Duke--An Italian Beauty--An English
Beauty, 329

LETTER XLVIII.

Oxen of Italy--Vallombrosa--A Convent Dinner--Vespers at
Vallombrosa--The Monk's Estimate of Women--Milton's Room--
Florence, 336

LETTER XLIX.

The House of Michael Angelo--Fiesole--San Miniato--Christmas
Eve--Amusing Scenes in Church, 344

LETTER L.

Penitential Processions--The Carlist Refugees--The Miracle of
Rain--The Miraculous Picture--Giovanni Di Bologna--Andrea Del
Sarto, 350

LETTER LI.

The Entertainments of Florence--A Peasant Beauty--The Morality
of Society--The Italian Cavalier--The Features of Society, 357

LETTER LII.

Artists and the French Academy--Beautiful Scenery--Sacred
Woods of Bolsena, 363

LETTER LIII.

The Virtuoso of Viterbo--Robberies--Rome as Fancied--Rome as
Found, 367

LETTER LIV.

The Fountain of Egeria--The Pontine Marshes--Mola--The
Falernian Hills--The Doctor of St. Agatha--The Queen of
Naples, 372

LETTER LV.

St. Peter's--The Fountains--The Obelisk--The Forum--Its
Memories--The Cenci--Claude's Pictures--Fancies Realized--The
Last of the Dorias--A Picture by Leonardo Da Vinci--Palace of
the Cesars--An Hour on the Palatine, 379

LETTER LVI.

Roman Eyes versus Feet--Vespers at Santa Trinita--Roman
Baths--Baths of Titus--Shelley's Haunt, 390

LETTER LVII.

The Tomb of the Scipios--The Early Christians--The Tomb of
Metella--Fountain of Egeria--Changed Aspect of Rome, 396

LETTER LVIII.

Palm Sunday--A Crowd--The Miserere--A Judas--The Washing of
Feet--The Dinner, 402

LETTER LIX.

The Protestant Cemetery--Shelley's Grave--Beauty of the
Place--Keats--Dr. Bell, 409

LETTER LX.

Audience with the Pope--Humility and Pride in Contrast--The
Miserere at St. Peter's--Italian Moonlight--Dancing at the
Coliseum, 415

LETTER LXI.

Easter Sunday--The Pope's Blessing--Illumination of St.
Peter's--Florentine Sociability--A Marriage of Convenience, 421

LETTER LXII.

The Correggio--Austrians in Italy--The Cathedral at Milan--
Guercino's Hagar--Milanese Coffee, 427

LETTER LXIII.

Still in Italy--Isola Bella--Ascent of the Simplon--Farewell
to Italy--An American--Descent of the Simplon, 433

LETTER LXIV.

The Cretins--The Goitre--First Sight of Lake Leman--Mont
Blanc--June in Geneva--The Winkelreid, 440

LETTER LXV.

American and Genevese Steamers--Lilies of the Valley--A
Frenchman's Apology--Genevese Women--Voltaire's Room, 446

LETTER LXVI.

The Jura--Arrival at Morez--Lost my Temper--National
Characteristics--Politeness versus Comfort, 452

LETTER LXVII.

Lafayette's Funeral--Crossing the Channel--An English Inn--
Mail Coaches and Horses--A Gentleman Driver--A Subject for
Madame Trollope, 458

LETTER LXVIII.

First Dinner in London--The King's Birth-day--A Handsome
Street--Introduction to Lady Blessington--A Chat about
Bulwer--The D'Israeli's--Contrast of Criticism--Countess
Guiccioli--Lady Blessington--An Apology, 465

LETTER LXIX.

An Evening at Lady Blessington's--Fonblanc--Tribute to American
Authors--A Sketch of Bulwer--Bulwer's Conversation--An Author
his own Critic, 476

LETTER LXX.

Ascot Races--Handsome Men--The Princess Victoria--Charles
Lamb--Mary Lamb--Lamb's Conversation--The Breakfast at Fault, 483

LETTER LXXI.

A Dinner at Lady Blessington's--D'Israeli, the Younger--The
Author of Vathek--Mr. Beckford's Whims--Irish Patriotism--The
Effect of Eloquence, 491

LETTER LXXII.

The Opera House--What Books will pay for--English Beauty--A
Belle's Criticism on Society--Celebrities, 498

LETTER LXXIII.

Breakfast with Proctor--A Story of Hazlitt--Procter as a
Poet--Impressions of the Man, 504

LETTER LXXIV.

Moore's Dread of Criticism--Moore's Love of Rank--A generous
Offer nobly Refused--A Sacrifice to Jupiter--The Election of
Speaker--Miss Pardoe--Prices of Books, 509

LETTER LXXV.

Dinner at Lady Blessington's--Scott--The Italians--Scott's Mode
of Living--O'Connell--Grattan--Moore's Manner of Talking--Lady
Blessington's Tact--Moore's Singing--A Curious Incident--The
Maid Metamorphosed, 517

PENCILLINGS BY THE WAY.