Chapter XXI: Appendix: Some Specialties

Besides the preparations enumerated in the preceding pages, we find in perfumery some products which are in favor on account of their fragrance and are suitable for scenting ladies’ writing-desks, sewing-baskets, boxes, and similar objects. They find their most appropriate use in places where an aromatic odor is desired, while there is no room for keeping the substances themselves. These must therefore be put into a small compass, and the aromatics chosen should be distinguished by great intensity and permanence of odor.

We subjoin a few formulas for the manufacture of such specialties, and add the remark that besides the aromatics there given other substances may be used in their preparation; but that the presence of benzoin, musk, or civet, even in small amount, is always necessary, since these substances, as above stated, not only possess an intense and permanent odor, but have the valuable property of imparting lasting qualities to more volatile odors.

It is a good plan, too, to keep on hand two kinds of these specialties—one containing musk, the other none—for the reason that the musk odor is as disagreeable to some persons as it is pleasant to others.

SPANISH SKIN (PEAU D’ESPAGNE, SPANISCH LEDER).

The article sold under this name resembles in some respects sachets or scent bags and is made as follows.

Take a piece of wash-leather (chamois), trim it to a square shape, and leave it for three or four days in the following mixture:

Benzoin ½ lb.
Oil of bergamot ¾ oz.
Oil of lemon ¾ oz.
Oil of lemon grass ¾ oz.
Oil of lavender ¾ oz.
Oil of nutmeg 150 grains.
Oil of clove 150 grains.
Oil of neroli 1½ oz.
Oil of rose 1½ oz.
Oil of santal 1½ oz.
Tincture of tonka ¾ oz.
Oil of cinnamon 150 grains.
Alcohol 1 qt.

At the end of the time named remove the leather from the liquid, let it drain, spread it on a glass plate, and when dry coat it on the rough side, by means of a brush, with a paste prepared in a mortar from the following ingredients:

Benzoic acid, sublimed 150 grains.
Musk 15 grains.
Civet 15 grains.
Gum acacia 1 oz.
Glycerin ¾ oz.
Water 1¾ oz.

The leather is then folded in the centre, smoothed with a paper-knife, put under a weight, and allowed to dry. The dried leather forms the so-called perfume skin which retains its fine odor for years. Instead of the above alcoholic liquids any desired alcoholic perfume may be used; especially suitable are those containing oils of lemon grass, lavender, and rose, since they are not very volatile, and when combined with musk and civet remain fragrant for a long time. A sufficiently large piece of perfume skin inserted in a desk pad or placed among the paper will make the latter very fragrant. Spanish skin is chiefly used for this purpose, as well as for work, glove, and handkerchief boxes, etc. It is generally inclosed in a heavy silk cover.

If leather be thought too expensive, four to six layers of blotting-paper may be perfumed in the same way and properly inclosed. Thin layers of cotton wadding between paper can also be thus perfumed and used for filling pin cushions, etc.

SPANISH PASTE.

Mix the following substances intimately in a porcelain mortar, and add water drop by drop until a doughy mass results.

Ambergris ¾ oz.
Benzoin 1½ oz.
Musk ¾ oz.
Vanilla ¾ oz.
Orris root ¾ oz.
Cinnamon ¾ oz.
Oil of bergamot 1½ oz.
Oil of rose ¾ oz.
Gum acacia 1½ oz.
Glycerin 1½ oz.

This paste, divided into pieces about the size of a hazelnut, is used for filling the so-called cassolettes or scent boxes which are carried in the pocket, etc., like smelling bottles. Owing to its pasty consistence this preparation can be used for perfuming jewelry (small quantities are inserted within the diamond settings), fine leather goods, belts, and other articles. It is unnecessary to lengthen the list; every practical perfumer will know what objects need perfuming.