Chapter I: Preface

On revisiting Tehran last autumn, I was struck with the evidence of progress and improvement in Persia, and on returning home I formed the idea of publishing a short account of my journey, with observations and opinions which are based on my previous experiences, and have reference also to what has been recorded by others. In carrying out this idea, I have made use of information given in the well-known books on Persia by Malcolm, Fraser, Watson and Curzon.

'Persia Revisited,' as first written, comprised up to Chapter VI. of the book; but just as I had finished it for publication, the sad news of the assassination of the Shah, Nasr-ed-Din, was received. I then saw that my book, to be complete, should touch on the present situation in Persia, and accordingly I added two chapters which deal with the new Shah and his brothers, and the Sadr Azem and the succession.

The illustrations are from photographs by M. Sevragine of Tehran, with the exception of the likeness of H.I.M. the Shah Mozuffer-ed-Din, and that of H.H. Ali Asghar Khan, Sadr Azem, which latter, by Messrs. W. and D. Downey, of Ebury Street, London, is published by their kind permission.

T.E. GORDON.

_May, 1896._

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I.

--London to Baku --Oil-wells and works --Persians abroad --Caspian steamers --Caspian salmon --Enzelli lagoon --The Jews in Persia --Resht trade --'My eye' --Russian road --The tobacco 'strike,' 1891 --Collapse of Tobacco Régie --Moulla opposition

CHAPTER II.

--The late Shah's long reign --His camp life --Habits --Appearance --Persian Telegraph Intelligence Department --Farming the revenues --Condition of the people --The shoe question --The Customs --Importation of arms --Martini-Henry rifles --Indo-European telegraph

CHAPTER III.

--Kasvin grapes --Persian wine --Vineyards in Persia --Wine manufacture --Mount Demavend --Afshar volcanic region --Quicksilver and gold --Tehran water-supply --Village quarrels --Vendetta --Tehran tramways --Bread riots --Mint and copper coin

CHAPTER IV.

--Religious tolerance in Tehran --Katie Greenfield's case --Babi sect --Liberal opinions --German enterprise in Persia --Railways in Asia Minor --Russian road extension --Railways to Persian frontiers --The Karun River --Trade development --The Kajar dynasty --Life titles --Chieftainship of tribes --Sanctuary --The Pearl cannon

CHAPTER V.

--The military tribes and the royal guard --Men of the people as great monarchs --Persian sense of humour --Nightingales and poetry --Legendary origin of the royal emblem --Lion and Sun --Ancient Golden Eagle emblem --The Blacksmith's Apron the royal standard

CHAPTER VI.

--The Order of the Lion and the Sun --Rex and Dido --Dervishes --Endurance of Persian horses --The Shah's stables --The sanctuary of the stable --Long-distance races --A country of horses --The _gymkhana_ in Tehran --Olive industry near Resht --Return journey --Grosnoje oil field --Russian railway travelling --Improved communication with Tehran

CHAPTER VII.

_THE SITUATION IN PERSIA_ (1896).

I.

--Shrine of Shah Abdul Azim --Death of Nasr-ed-Din Shah --Jemal-ed-Din in Tehran --Shiahs and Sunnis --Islam in Persia