Chapter I: Front Matter

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Transcriber's note:

Text enclosed by underscores is in italics (_italics_).

Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original
document have been preserved.

Obvious typographical errors have been corrected.

The book consistently refers to "El Poverello", perhaps
a typographical error for "Il Poverello".

PICTURES IN UMBRIA

* * * * *

TRAVEL BOOKS BY
THE SAME WRITER.

THROUGH NORMANDY.

THROUGH BRITTANY.

PICTURES AND LEGENDS FROM
NORMANDY AND BRITTANY.

IN THE ARDENNES.

ABOUT YORKSHIRE.

IN THE VOLCANIC EIFEL WITH
GILBERT S. MACQUOID.

IN PARIS WITH GILBERT S.
MACQUOID.

ILLUSTRATED BY
THOMAS R. MACQUOID, R.I.

* * * * *

PICTURES IN UMBRIA

by

KATHARINE S. MACQUOID

With Fifty Original Illustrations by Thomas R. Macquoid, R.I.

New York: Charles Scribner's Sons London: T. Werner Laurie MDCCCCV

Fertile costa d'alto monte pende,
Onde Perugia sente freddo e caldo
Da Porta Sole, ...

Di quella costa là, dov'ella frange
Più sua rattezza, nacque al mondo un Sole,
Come fa questo tal volta di Gange.
Però chi d'esso loco fa parole,
Non dica Ascesi, chè direbbe corto,
Ma Oriente, se proprio dir vuole.
Non era ancor molto lontan dall'orto,
Chè cominciò a far sentir la terra
Della sua gran virtude alcun conforto.

"Del Paradiso," Canto XI.

To
ARCHIBALD EARL OF ROSEBERY, K.G.

WHO HAS KINDLY PERMITTED US
TO OFFER HIM THE DEDICATION
OF THIS BOOK

THOMAS R. AND KATHARINE S. MACQUOID

April 1905

CONTENTS

CHAP. PAGE

I. AN ANCIENT HILL-CITY 1

II. MARKET-DAY IN PERUGIA 13

III. FONTE DI PERUGIA 32

IV. COLLEGIO DEL CAMBIO AND THE PINACOTECA 69

V. SPELLO 76

VI. THE HEAVENLY CHOIR OF PERUGIA 97

VII. SAN PIETRO DE' CASINENSI 119

VIII. THE SEPULCHRE OF THE VOLUMNII 130

IX. THE VIA APPIA 138

X. THE WAY TO ASSISI 165

XI. SAN FRANCESCO 179

XII. IN THE TOWN, ASSISI 230

XIII. SANTA MARIA DEGLI ANGELI 260

XIV. ADDIO PERUGIA 295

XV. LAKE THRASYMENE AND CORTONA 299

INDEX 317

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

BY THOMAS R. MACQUOID, R.I.

PAGE

VIA APPIA Frontispiece

ALOES IN BLOOM 12

INITIAL--RAFFAELLE 13

SAN DOMENICO Facing 16

SAN DOMENICO FOUNTAIN 21

PIAZZA SOPRA MURA 25

THE GREAT FOUNTAIN Facing 32

INITIAL--NICOLO PISANO 32

STATUE OF POPE JULIUS III 36

INITIAL--PERUGINO 69

DOORWAY OF PALAZZO PUBBLICO Facing 70

A BYEWAY TO THE STATION 78

FONTANA BORGHESE Facing 78

PORTA VENERIS--SPELLO 85

HEAD OF PINTURICCHIO 88

PORTA AUGUSTA--SPELLO 93

INITIAL--POTS IN BANDS AT WINDOW 97

VIA SANT' AGATA 99

MADONNA DI LUCE 103

FAÇADE OF SAN BERNARDINO 105

FLOATING ANGEL 106

HEADS OF CHERUBIM 107

ANGELS PLAYING ON INSTRUMENT 109

ANGEL PLAYING 110

LA VEDUTA 121

INITIAL--GIRL'S HEAD 130

PORTA SUSANNA Facing 138

PORTA EBURNEA " 142

OUTSIDE PERUGIA 143

VIA APPIA AND THE TOWN 145

ARCO DELLA CONCA 149

PORTA AUGUSTA--PERUGIA 153

PORTA BULIGAIA 156

PORTA SAN ANGELO 159

INITIAL--GIOTTO 165

CONVENT AND CHURCH OF SAN FRANCESCO 172

ENTRANCE TO ASSISI 177

STATUE OF ST. FRANCIS 179

CHURCH TOWER 181

ENTRANCE TO LOWER CHURCH 185

THE SMALL CLOISTER 199

THE GARDEN OF CLOISTER 203

THE UPPER CHURCH, SAN FRANCESCO 227

OUTSIDE SAN FRANCESCO Facing 224

INITIAL 260

INITIAL--OLIVE BRANCH 299

LAKE THRASYMENE 301

PALAZZO COMUNALE, CORTONA 305

ETRUSCAN CANDELABRUM 308

NOTE

Our book treats of a few of the Hill-cities of Umbria, but it does not attempt exhaustive detail in regard to Perugia, Assisi, or any other.

Several old contemporary writers have greatly helped the book, notably the delightful chronicler Matarazzo, and some of his fellows; besides the "Legend of the Three Companions," and the very quaint "Fioretti di San Francesco."

"The Life of San Bernardino of Siena," by Pierre Clément, was also very useful. In the book itself I speak of the great enjoyment I found in Monsieur Paul Sabatier's thoughtful "Vie de Saint François d'Assisi," and in Miss Lina Duff Gordon's charming "Story of Assisi."

KATHARINE S. MACQUOID.

THE EDGE, TOOTING COMMON
April 1905

PICTURES IN UMBRIA