Chapter I: Preface

In the following pages I have attempted to describe the numerous artistic treasures and beauties of London. These attractions are so abundant and varied, that I have not been able to do more than select specimens, as it were, of each class; but enough has been given to inspire the reader with an eagerness to set out, and make these discoveries for himself. The aim throughout has been to show that the Metropolis is as well furnished with “the picturesque” as any foreign city, and that there is much that is romantic and interesting, which, without a sympathetic guide, might escape notice. There are various modes of “seeing sights.” One, the most common, is the regular official method “the Guide Book;” when the stranger goes round, and stares, and takes care that he sees each object set down in his Book. No fruit or profit comes from this process, which leaves a feeling of tediousness. How welcome, on the other hand, is some living guide, the friend that knows the subject, that can point out the special merits and beauties with sympathy, describe in a few words why this or that is attractive, or admired. What was before a mere blank mass of details, now becomes vivified, and has meaning; something of this kind is, in a small way, attempted here.

These “Travels in London” have been the result of many years’ exploration. I have always found a never-failing pastime to observe as I walked, and made expeditions into far off and little known quarters, rarely without discovering something novel and unexpected. I must add, however, that these records do not pretend to be at all in the nature of a “guide,” or to supply historical or archæological information. They simply register impressions.

In the same spirit the Illustrations have been selected, so as to convey the artistic feeling with which the various scenes impress us. I am conscious too of shortcomings, especially when I think of the conscientious labours of Peter Cunningham, Thornbury, and Walford, though in another department of the subject; but these, I trust, will be excused in consideration of the goodwill and enthusiasm, in which the work has been carried out.

P. F.

_Athenæum Club_,

_September, 1890._

CONTENTS.

I.--ST. MARGARET’S CHURCH, WESTMINSTER 1

II.--THE WESTMINSTER TOBACCO-BOX--THE WESTMINSTER PLAY 9

III.--ASHBURNHAM HOUSE--THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT, &c. 16

IV.--WESTMINSTER ABBEY 26

V.--THE ADELPHI AND THE STRAND 38

VI.--THE ROMAN BATH--COVENT GARDEN 49

VII.--THE NATIONAL GALLERY 57

VIII.--SIR JOHN VANBRUGH AND ST. MARTIN’S LANE 68

IX.--PICCADILLY, BOND STREET, AND ALBERT GATE 78

X.--LINCOLN’S INN FIELDS 92

XI.--THE OLD INNS--CLIFFORD’S, STAPLE’S, BARNARD’S 99

XII.--DICKENS IN LONDON 114

XIII.--WATERLOO BRIDGE, THE LAW COURTS, ST. PAUL’S, ETC. 122

XIV.--OLD SUBURBAN MANSIONS 145

XV.--OLD TOWN MANSIONS 154

XVI.--OLD SQUARES 170

XVII.--THE OLD TAVERNS 176

XVIII.--TAVERNS 183

XIX.--CITY WALKS 195

XX.--THE OLD CITY HALLS 206

XXI.--ALLHALLOWS, ST. OLAVE’S, ELY CHAPEL, ETC. 211

XXII.--OLD ST. BARTHOLOMEW’S, ST. HELEN’S & OTHER CHURCHES 221

XXIII.--WREN’S CHURCHES 232

XXIV.--MODERN CHURCHES 240

XXV.--THE CHARTERHOUSE--THE NEW RIVER 249

XXVI.--CANONBURY TOWER 253

XXVII.--THE QUEEN ANNE STYLE--OLD DOORWAYS 258

XXVIII.--CHELSEA AND FULHAM 266

XXIX.--PUTNEY--FULHAM 272

XXX.--CHISWICK, KEW, RICHMOND, AND THEIR SUBURBS 277

XXXI.--WILLIS’S ROOMS--THE PALACES 293

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Houses of Parliament _Frontispiece._

Garden of Ashburnham House _facing_ p. 18

Adelphi Terrace “ 38

Entrance to the Roman Bath “ 49

The Old Roman Bath, Strand “ 50

Covent Garden “ 53

St. Etheldreda’s Church “ 217

* * * * *

The Cloisters, Westminster Abbey 2

Lambeth Palace 8

In Little Dean’s Yard 13

Tablet, Emanuel Hospital 15

The Staircase, Ashburnham House 17

The Blewcoat School, Westminster 19

Emanuel Hospital 21

Westminster Abbey 27

The Nightingale Monument 32

The Water Gate 46

The National Gallery 57

Statue of General Gordon in Trafalgar Square 69

St. Anne’s Church, Soho 72

Across the Hall, Dorchester House 82

The Red Drawing Room, Dorchester House 84

Statue of Sidney Herbert, by Foley 90

Sir John Soane’s Museum 94

Old Gateway, Lincoln’s Inn 97

A Corner of Lincoln’s Inn 98

Old Doorway, 24, Carey Street 100

Gateway, Staple Inn 102

King’s Bench Walk 103

Barnard’s Inn 106

Clifford’s Inn 107

Gray’s Inn 108

The Fountain, Middle Temple 109

Fountain Court, Temple 110

Hall and Library, Gray’s Inn 111

Gray’s Inn Hall 112

Garden Gate, Gray’s Inn 113

Doughty Street 120

The Law Courts 131

St. Paul’s Cathedral 135

Chimney Piece, by Steevens 140

The Duke of Wellington’s Monument, St. Paul’s 141

Cromwell’s House, Highgate 147

Fairfax House, Putney 148

Raleigh House 151

Room in The Sir Paul Pindar Tavern 158

Sir Paul Pindar’s House 159

Room in Sir Paul Pindar’s House 160

Berkeley Square 173

Mansion in Cavendish Square 175

The White Hart 178

The George Inn, Borough 180

The Old Cock Tavern 187

The Magpie and Stump, Portsmouth Street 194

Fresh Wharf and St. Magnus’ Steeple 198

College Hill--Whittington’s House 199

View of the Tower from London Bridge 201

St. Giles’, Cripplegate 203

Old Doorways, Laurence Pountney Hill 205

Brewer’s Hall Courtyard 207

Allhallows, Barking 212

St. Olave’s, Hart Street 213

The Savoy Chapel 214

The Savoy 215

The Crypt, St. Etheldreda’s 216

Old Roman Font in Crypt of St. Etheldreda’s 217

Doorway, St. Helen’s 221

St. Helen’s 223

St. Etheldreda’s 225

Gateway to Great St. Helen’s and Almshouses 227

Belfry, St. Helen’s Church 229

Monument of Sir William Pickering 230

Steeple of St. Mary-le-Bow 233

Steeple of St. James 235

St. Stephen’s, Walbrook 236

St. Mary Woolnoth 238

Interior of the Oratory 243

Confessional in the Oratory 244

Our Lady’s Altar in the Oratory 245

The Sanctuary, Farm Street 247

Old Charterhouse 251

Doorway, 70, Grosvenor Street 260

Doorway, Painter Stainers’ Hall 262

Extinguishers, Berkeley Square 263

Old Doorway, Whittington’s House 264

Cheyne Walk 267

Old Putney Bridge 273

Hogarth’s House, Chiswick 278

Maid of Honour Row, Richmond 281

Church Row, Hampstead 289

Grand Staircase, Buckingham Palace 295

Millais’s Studio 297

Alma Tadema’s Former Studio 299

Herkomer’s Studio 301