Chapter II: Front Matter (2)

Our Queen Anne Shingles are designed expressly to meet a want often expressed for an attractive and artistic roof covering and outside decorating. They are not intended to take the place of our Standard Walter’s Patent, which for general use are incomparable, but less ornamental than the Queen Anne Shingles. They have bold clean cut lines, producing, from the effects of light and shade, the most striking and artistic roof yet produced by metallic shingles or tiles.

For church spires, belt coursing, towers or mansard roofing, they cannot be excelled. The cut illustrates the kind of finish used at the eaves and verge board. The same ridge coping used for our Standard Shingles can be used for this. This shingle must be seen to be appreciated.

We recommend the Bronze Metal, or the Galvanized Shingles for use on public or first-class private buildings, because such buildings should be covered with the best roofing material to be had.

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Each superficial foot of brick wall,

4 inches thick requires 7 brick.
8 “ “ “ 15 “
12 “ “ “ 22 “
16 “ “ “ 29 “
20 “ “ “ 37 “
24 “ “ “ 45 “

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SURFACE MEASURE.—All roofers compute roofing jobs by squares, which means 100 square feet, or 10 feet square. If you go to your architect or roofer and ask him how much it will take or cost to cover your roof, he will first ascertain how many square feet there are to be covered; and if, for example, there are 2,500 square feet he will tell you there are twenty-five squares to be covered; and in order to intelligently supply what is wanted, we put up our shingles in boxes of one square each; that is to say, each box of one square will cover one hundred square feet after they have been put on.

OLD MATERIALS.

In tearing down old work be as careful as in putting up new.

Old material should never be destroyed simply because it is old.

When putting away old stuff see that it is protected from rain and the atmosphere.

It costs about 15 per cent. extra to work up old material, and this fact should be borne in mind, as I have known several contractors who paid dearly for their “whistle” in estimating on working up second-hand material.

These remarks apply to wood-work only. In using old bricks, stone, slate and other miscellaneous materials, it is as well to add double price for working up.

Workmen do not care to handle old material, and justly so. It is ruinous to tools, painful to handle, and very destructive to clothing.

In my experience I always found it pay to advance the wages of workmen—skilled mechanics—while working up old material. This encouraged the men and spurred them to better efforts.

Sash frames, with sash weights, locks and trim complete, may be taken out of old buildings that are being taken down and preserved just as good as new by screwing slats and braces on them, which not only keeps the frame square, but prevents the glass from being broken.

Doors, frames and trims may also be kept in good order until used, by taking the same precautions as in window frames.

Old scantlings and joists should have all nails drawn or hammered in before piling away.

Counters, shelving, drawers and other store-fittings should be kindly dealt with. They will be wanted sooner or later.

Take care of the locks, hinges, bolts, keys and other hardware. Each individual piece represents money in a greater or lesser sum.

Old flooring can seldom be utilized, though I have seen it used for temporary purposes, such as fencing, covering of veranda floors while finishing work on plastering, etc. As a rule, however, it does not pay to take it up carefully and preserve it. Conductor pipes, metallic cornices, and sheet metal work generally, can seldom be made available a second time though all is worth caring for, as some parties may use it for repairs.

Sinks, wash-basins, bath-tubs, traps, heating appliances, grates, mantels and hearth-stones should be moved with care. They are always worth money and may be used in many places as substitutes for more inferior fixings.

Marble mantels require the most careful handling.

Perhaps the most difficult fixings about a house to adapt a second time are the stairs. Yet I have known where a man has so managed to put up new buildings that the old stairs taken from another building just suited. This may have been a “favorable accident,” but the initiated reader will understand him. Seldom such accidents can occur.

Rails, balusters and newels may be utilized much readier than stairs, as the rail may be lengthened or shortened to suit variable conditions.

Gas fixtures should be cared for and stowed away in some dry place. They can often be made available, and are not easily renovated if soiled or tarnished.

It is not wise to employ men who have nothing but their strength to recommend them. As a rule they are like bears—have more strength than knowledge, and lack of the latter is often an expensive desideratum. Employ for taking down the work good careful mechanics, and do not have the work “rushed through.” Rushers of this sort are expensive.

Never send old material to a mill to be sawed or planed, no matter how carefully nails, pebbles and sand have been hunted for, the saw or planer knives will most assuredly find some you have overlooked, then there will be trouble at the mill.

Have some mercy for the workman’s tools. If it can be avoided do not work up old stuff into fine work. If not avoidable pay the workman something extra because of injury to tools.

Don’t grumble if you do not get as good results from the use of old material as from new. The workman has much to contend with while working up old nail-speckled, sand-covered material.

_Builder and Woodworker._

HEATING.

I once knew a church building committee who planned and built quite a large church, and when I was called in to arrange for heating the building with a large furnace, the furnace committee were astonished when told that the building committee had forgotten the fact that the hot-air furnace required a chimney.

The construction of many houses suggests that houses built in the hot months of summer needed no special provision for heating. This is an important subject, and should be carefully considered in the construction of the plainest house. Always take climate, location and fuel into consideration. The open fire place, with fire on the hearth, is without doubt the most cheerful and healthful. This is the favorite and best mode for plain country homes. But in all instances, for churches and public halls, the open fire-place is not to be depended upon. There is a variety of good steam-heaters and hot-air furnaces to choose from. Consult the parties from whom you buy as to the size of heater required; its location, size of cold-air duct, register, pipe, etc.

For small rural churches that have no basement, construct a small room under the front entrance or vestibule; eight feet square, inside measure, is sufficient. Near its floor have a cold-air entrance leading to the furnace. Cover the opening with wire netting to prevent the entrance of mice. Use brick for the room, building the walls eight inches thick; leave openings 2½ × 4 inches, about one foot apart all around the bottom next to the floor. Carry the wall close to the ceiling, and make it tight by plastering carefully inside and out where it joins the ceiling. Cover the ceiling, by nailing to joists, with bright sheets of tin, and white-wash the brick-work inside. For entrance make a door 6 × 3 feet. A plain wooden one will answer. In the aisle of the church, immediately over this room, put a large grating, such as your furnace-men will suggest. In this room place your furnace, and have it _large enough_ to heat the room above during the coldest weather _without excessive firing_. With a larger capacity than necessary, the furnace will last longer, burn less coal, and give better results in every respect. As the furnace will radiate considerable heat, this can be utilized by running a pipe of proper size from the room to the vestibule or some other room. The objection to using this heat in the church is the noise of firing up, which would be annoying during church service. However, a furnace properly attended will not need firing during church service. Remember, a large volume of _warm_ air is what you want, and _not_ a small volume of _hot_ air. Never cover the grating or close the cold-air duct to cool off while there is fire in the furnace, but open the doors or windows of the church and check the fire. The closing of the grating or cold-air duct will injure the castings of the furnace by overheating them.

CLOSE SHEATHING THE BEST.

While a rain-proof roof can be made with our shingles, our system, as well as all metal or slate roofing should not be put upon open sheathing. If walked upon the metal will not support the weight, and bends out of shape, and the roof is blamed. In high latitudes where we have driving storms of fine snow or “blizzards,” _we specify close sheathing covered by paper_ (_using same rules as for laying slate_). We will then guarantee a perfect roof.

THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO.,
510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City.

THE CISTERN.

Three things are all that are necessary to supply any family with the purest and best water in the world for drinking, cooking and washing purposes: a well-constructed cistern, a clean roof and a rain-fall.

_A._ To connect with down pipe.
_B._ Outlet for waste water.
_C._ Leads to filter or cistern.
_D._ Is adjustable to fit box _C_.
_E._ Fastenings to wall of house.
_F._ Side view of _D_.
_G._ Handle to adjust _D_.

(Not patented; can be made by any tinsmith.)]

These are within the reach of every one able to own a home. By a cistern we mean an excavation in the earth from twelve to twenty-five feet deep. Dig deep if you want cold water all the year round. From eighteen to twenty-five feet will produce it. If your cistern is dug in a clayey soil, there is no use of brick lining; but if in gravel, sandy or rocky soil, line the inside with hard, well burnt brick, and do the work well; using for mortar equal parts of hydraulic lime and clean, sharp sand. When completed, plaster the inside carefully with the same mortar. If the walls are clay plaster immediately on the sides and bottom, without lining with brick.

No roofing material is better for collecting chemically pure water than tin, and none so bad as wood shingles. They hold dirt which no ordinary shower will wash off, and furnish organic matter which is disagreeable to the taste and smell; the porous nature of wood makes it the home of myriads of insects, the remains of which are eventually deposited in the cistern and poison its waters.

No such objections can be urged against tin roofing. A short shower cleanses it thoroughly. Water-pipes leading into the cistern in every case should have a cut-off attachment within easy reach.

There are several on the market, but those having no inside arrangement to get out of order, or obstruct the direct passage of water into either the cistern or waste-pipe, are the best. The water should be strained before entering the cistern. This can be built of brick and be underground, or a cask can be used above ground. A strong, iron-bound linseed oil barrel answers the purpose. Its construction is very simple. Take out one end of the cask and perforate it with a sufficient number of one-inch auger holes; lay four brick on edge in the bottom of the cask, and let the perforated cask head rest upon them. Then fill the cask three-quarters full of charcoal, pounding it down on top pretty hard. Put on top of the charcoal clean, coarse gravel to within three inches of the top of cask; make a covering with an opening to receive the water which flows from the roof, and convey the water from the bottom of cask to the cistern. At least once a year this filter should be emptied and cleansed, putting in new charcoal and washing the gravel carefully. Let no summer months’ water run into the cistern. See that the first rain of a shower is used to wash the dust and soot from your roof before it is turned into the cistern, and you will have an abundance of water not equaled by any well or spring.

BUILDING PAPERS.

NEPONSET PAPER is absolutely water-proof and air-tight, is clean to handle, not tarred felt, but far more durable. Its resistance to air and dampness renders it unsurpassed under clapboards, iron roofing and wood or tin shingles.

CLIMAX is a light, clean, pink, colored paper; useful for any purpose where building paper is required; is much cheaper than Neponset, but not water-proof. The use of building paper under roofing or clapboards adds greatly to the ease of warming a building. By its use you save fuel and your house is more comfortable. Its cost is nominal compared with its advantages. We keep a large stock and fill orders promptly.

COLORS AND HOW TO MAKE THEM.

Blue and yellow makes green.
White and yellow makes buff.
White, yellow and black makes drab.
White and black makes lead.
White and black makes gray.
White, black and blue makes pearl.
White and lake makes pink.
White, blue and black makes slate.
Red, black and blue makes brown.
Red, black and yellow makes maroon.
Red and yellow makes orange.
Blue and lake makes purple.

* * * * *

U. S. MARINE BARRACKS, NAVY YARD, PENSACOLA, FLA.,
October 22d, 1887.

SIRS:—In compliance with your request, I have to say that about
a year ago I was called upon to decide which of several kinds
of roofing material to select for two barrack buildings, which
I was constructing for the Government at this place. Owing to
the heat and moisture of the climate, very destructive to wood,
and the proximity of the Gulf of Mexico, which makes what is
known as a salt atmosphere, very injurious to iron roofing, I
was induced to try your system, and ordered the 14 × 20 size,
I. C. Standard, some painted and some galvanized. As it was
previously almost unknown to me, I had to assume the risk of
its success, and have since watched it very closely; the more
so, as it was laid by soldiers entirely unfamiliar with it.

After the first rain a close inspection failed to reveal a
single leak. I have had it inspected after every heavy rain
since then with the same result. On the 20th inst. we had the
severest gale for many years, and the roofs not only resisted
it in every way, but there was no rattle, which could not be
said of our other tin roofs (old system).

You can refer any one to me for commendation of these points
which are established; also of its architectural beauty, and
I have little doubt as to the rest, for we painted it very
carefully on both sides.

I am, Sirs, very respectfully yours,

HENRY CLAY COCHRANE,
Captain U. S. Marine Corps, Commanding Post.

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The combination of cherry and light oak proves an excellent one for over-mantels, for, in addition to contrast of grain, and figure, and hue, is that of the high polish of which cherry is susceptible with the somewhat ridgy surface of the oak.

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One coat of paint takes 20 lbs. of lead and 4 gals. of oil per 100 square yards. The second coat, 40 lbs. lead, 4 gals. oil; the third, the same as the second—say 100 lbs. lead, 12 gals. oil per 100 square yards, for three coats.

* * * * *

One gallon priming colors covers 50 square yards.
“ white zinc “ 50 “
“ white lead “ 44 “
“ lead color “ 50 “
“ black paint “ 50 “
“ stone color “ 44 “
“ yellow paint “ 44 “
“ blue color “ 45 “
“ green paint “ 45 “
“ bright emerald “ 25 “
“ bronze green “ 75 “

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EIGHT-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE.]

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OUR GUARANTEE.

We guarantee our shingles as follows: If you will use them, and _they are properly put on in accordance with our instructions_, and if they do not then give satisfaction, we agree to replace your roof, free of expense to you, with equally expensive material, any time within two years from the time you put them on. In addition to this, we may be able to give you a local reference, as our goods are in use in every State and Territory. We call your attention to the price list, and we will be pleased to make you discounts on application.

THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO.,
510 to 520 East 20th St., New York City.

* * * * *

Cover roof with No. 1 Standard 10 × 14 Tin Shingles; use attic vents (see page 73) on main roof, and cover belt courses with 7 × 10 Tin Shingles, same quality as those for main roof.

The plans and elevations of cottages presented in this book have each been specially prepared for some individual by an eminent architect, and the proportions and details can be relied upon.

_First Floor._

_Design_ J.—(_Elevations, pages 51 and 52._)]

SHOWING APPLICATION OF OUR RIDGE OR HIP COPING.

These cuts are good illustrations of our Ridge Finish, which is also used as Hip Coping. It is secured to the roof comb by nailing through the flange, which rests on each side of the comb. It makes a durable and neat finish; is of great assistance to workmen not skilled in metal roofing, and its cost is no more than the labor and material necessary in making the regular standing seam used by roofers in finishing the comb of sheet metal roofs.

FOR RE-COVERING.—Use our Roofing; no other has the conveniences for rapid laying.

VENTILATION.

As you value health, study well this important subject, which is oftener neglected in constructing dwellings than any other detail. An experienced and observant man can pick from those whom he meets on the street men or women who habitually sleep in badly ventilated rooms. The florist will study and practice the best means to ventilate his propagating house, and ignore the necessity of the same principle for himself and family. Everything that breathes—and what living thing does not?—needs a change of air to remain in a healthy condition. Leaves are the lungs of plants, and, deprived of this change, soon assume a delicate, sickly hue.

Why should the human family, in full possession of reasoning powers, ignore the lesson that is every day before them? By ventilation we mean a system that will constantly supply the dwelling with fresh air; at the same time it draws the vitiated atmosphere from each hall and room in the house. This can be done during the process of erection in a simple, effectual and inexpensive manner. Even if it should cost more than you feel inclined to pay, the result will justify the expense.

There is no better way of creating upward draught than the open fire-place, or a flue built with an opening near the floor. Such flues should not be less than 8 × 8 inches for an ordinary size bedroom, and should, if possible, be built alongside of the chimney flue, and extend through the house-top without openings, except the one nearest the floor in the room it starts from.

As vitiated air is heavier than pure air, and is always nearest the floor, the artificial draught caused by a long, upright flue is constantly at work carrying the lower atmosphere from each room in which these upward and outward draught flues are built. To supply the rooms with fresh air, corresponding flues must be built similar in size and construction to the above. Commence them with outside openings about on a level with the first floor joists, extending upward, and end with openings inward near the ceiling. Each of these openings outside and inside the house should be covered with coarse wire cloth. That made from tinned or galvanized No. 16 wire, with one-half in. meshes, is the best. Care should be taken in building these flues to have them smoothly plastered on the inside. An ornamental finish can be used at each end if desired. By this arrangement a steady flow of fresh air, both night and day, is secured without the ill effects of strong draughts.

Do not try to economize by using one flue for two or more rooms. Good results are only secured by using a set of flues for each room or hall. I have seen ventilating flues built to open through the cornice. That is a bad plan, for even a slight wind will check the draught while blowing against that side. If the flues are properly finished after passing through the roof the wind will increase the draught. The above suggestions answer equally as well for frame houses. It is easy to construct wood flues between the weatherboarding and lath.

COOPER’S CONDUCTOR OR LEADER PIPE.

The object of this invention is to supply the builder with a conductor-pipe that will not burst after freezing, which all pipes without provision for expansion are liable when water is frozen solid in them. The peculiarity of the joint lies in the wedge principle, applied in a manner which forces the rim of the inside lap hard against the overlapping end with strength sufficient to do without soldering the joints. Besides this, each joint is provided with a fastening which prevents the pipe from settling. This fastening may or may not be used, but if used in connection with the ordinary pipe hook (which does not prevent the pipe from settling) makes a very superior fastening.

The V-shaped corrugation prevents bursting, as it allows the pipe to expand when frozen, thus preventing its bursting. We make two sizes, three and four inches in diameter, twenty-eight inches long, using tin plate, which we galvanize with zinc after it is formed, making a pipe superior to any galvanized iron pipe of equal weight. We make the same not galvanized, but painted one coat inside and out with linseed oil and oxide of iron paint.

AMPLE PROVISION FOR EXPANSION.]

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SEVEN-ROOM, TWO-STORY HOUSE.

Estimated Cost, $1,200 to $1,500.

Cover main roof with No. 2 14 × 20 Metal Shingles; gables with same, and porches with 7 × 10, same quality. Attic ventilators will improve the appearance and give additional light to the rooms under roof (see page 73).]

_Design_ B.—(_Elevations, page 58._)]

NAILS.

STEEL WIRE BARBED NAILS are superior to any cut nail made. Are lighter, stronger and easier to drive. Holding firmer in the wood, and having a larger flat head, they hold the tin to the roof boards much better, are nearly double the quantity to the pound, and therefore fully as cheap.

DEADENING AND FIRE-PROOFING FLOORS.

This can be accomplished in a simple and inexpensive manner by nailing strips 1 × 1½ inches along the side of each joist, the top edge of each strip to be two inches below the top surface of the joist. On top of these strips lay a floor of rough boards. Second-hand material answers every purpose for the floor, as the boards need not be matched or of even thickness.

On the top of this rough floor spread a covering of coarse mortar gauged level with the top edge of the joist. When the mortar is dry lay the floor in the usual manner. It takes a long time for fire to burn through a floor laid in this manner, and sound is deadened completely by the mass of non-conducting mortar and the double floors. For fire-proofing and deadening partitions in an effective way, build a four-inch brick wall between the studding. A nail driven every ten or twelve inches in the side of the studding, on the line of the mortar joint, will hold the wall firmly between the studding. Where brick is scarce or expensive, sun dried brick made from stiff clay is a good substitute. They can be made 12 × 12 inches, and thick enough to come within ⅜ of an inch of the lathing. The mortar keys impinging against the wall make the plastering firmer and consequently stronger.

The expense of fire-proofing and deadening in this manner is so small, it is surprising it is not more generally adopted. If the flooring is laid before the mortar used between the joists is dry, it will cause the boards to swell and may bulge them; and when they finally become dry will leave ugly looking cracks where they join. Remember, you cannot have a well built house without giving Nature time to do her work.

DIRECTIONS FOR LAYING WALTER’S PATENT METALLIC SHINGLES.

Shows manner of finishing with Climax Ridge Stop Block and Gable End Finish.]

Commence at the lower left-hand corner. In starting be particular to see that you start straight with the eaves of the building. To do this it is best to draw a chalk line about twelve inches from the eaves; this distance leaves two inches to project from the eaves, which in many cases is more than sufficient. If you use our Gable End Finish (Cut I) it saves the trouble of fitting the shingles to the verge board, and adds to the appearance of the roof. After nailing the Gable End Finish to its place, press the left-hand edge of the first shingle well under the fold of the Gable End Finish, and before nailing it hook two or three shingles with the top edge on a line with your chalk line; then remove the loose shingles, and nail the first one which is held to its proper place by the Gable End Finish. By doing this in starting each course you are sure of a straight line if you follow correctly the gauge lines at the top of each shingle.

Shows commencement of first two courses.]

If your roof has a =pitch of six inches to the foot, or steeper, let the bottom edge of the shingle rest just above the lower gauge line on the top of the underlying shingle, as shown in Cut A=. But if the pitch of the roof is less than six inches to the foot, let the shingle entirely cover the lower gauge line, as shown in Cut B.

We advise against the use of our shingles on roofs of less pitch than five inches to the foot, unless the lap is increased. As a rule, we think any roof that can be walked over with safety is too flat for shingles of either wood or metal.

Should there be a gutter formed at the eave, let the shingle rest on it as you would in using the ordinary wood shingle. (Remember every other course =commences with a half shingle, as shown in Cuts A and B=.) The same rules that govern the laying of slate or the common wood shingle along valleys, or about chimneys and dormer windows, are applicable to ours, except the tin shingles are bent up against the sides of chimneys, which cannot be done with wood or slate. When our shingles turn up against the sides of chimneys or brick walls, insert flashing by sawing out the mortar joint above the line of tin work; where the upper edge of our shingles butts against the brick wall, as they do on the lower side of chimneys, cut them off on the line where the chimney comes to the roof, and use a strip of tin bent in this manner. (See Cut F.) The upper end at A is to fit in mortar joint. The lower edge, B, is nailed to the sheathing before the shingles are put on. The upper ends of shingles are then to be pressed up under the fold, C. Great care should be used in finishing about chimneys and dormers, the details of which cannot well be explained to suit each case; but a workman of ordinary skill can suggest the proper manner in which the work should be done to secure thoroughly tight work.

It is much easier to secure this result with the use of our shingles than it is with either wood or slate.

Where the upper end of shingle butts against the side of a frame house, use the same means as on the lower side of chimneys, only let there be no bend at the point A, as shown in Cut F; but let it extend an inch or so up under the weather boarding. Where the weather boarding is vertical there is no way of making tight work but to put the tin work, as before described, back of the vertical weather board.

In laying the valley, cut the tin so it extends to about one-half inch over the lock, and bend it under, as shown in Cut D. We furnish to each customer a small pair of hand-tongs, which is handy to turn this edge over and pinch it together after the shingle is laid.

The Cut D represents the shingles laid to and from the valley. In starting from the valley it is best to hold several shingles together, or tack them at the top, then with a straight-edge mark and cut where they overlap the valley; and with the hand-tongs edge and lock them to the valley, as shown in cut D.

Use the Hip Coping by nailing the edges to the roof boards, and press the shingle up under the folds on each side after they are cut to suit the angle of the hip. (See Cut E.)

As plain as this appears, we have known men to nail the Hip Coping through the folds and on the top of the shingles. We are, therefore, particular to say wherever this Hip, or our Plain Ridge Coping (which is the same thing) is used it should be nailed to the roof boards before the shingles are put on. The fold is made expressly to receive the edge of the shingles. Cut E shows this coping and the manner of applying it.

We desire to impress upon our customers, who live in the Northern States, where blizzards and severe snow storms are frequent, the necessity of using close sheathing, and if the sheathing is not close, =the use of sheathing paper, to be laid underneath the shingles=; it adds greatly to the warmth of the house in winter, and prevents small particles of snow from entering, it costs but little, and should always be used under wood, slate or tin shingles where the best protection is desired.

DO NOT HAMMER DOWN THE JOINTS OR LOCK.

* * * * *

PAINTING.

After the mason, bricklayer, carpenter, tinsmith and plasterer comes the painter. At this stage of progress in the work, the owner usually thinks of moving in; in fact, he thinks he should have been living in his new house several weeks ago.

If weather conditions have been good, the representatives of other branches of house building have got along smoothly excepting a little shaking up now and then, caused mostly by the men occasionally yielding to the seductive influences of Old John Barleycorn or his rival King Growler. The owner, having previously engaged or contracted for inside painting, now calls on the painter. The man of colors and brushes is always ready to promise quick work (and we are free to say the mysteries of his trade are equal to any reasonable emergency), and is apt to humor his employer’s impatience, and meekly submits to his wishes knowing that his employer’s hurry is his gain. House-builder, did it ever occur to you that first-class inside painting is a slow process? Think of this; after the first coat is laid, it should stand long enough to become thoroughly dry, dry enough to be sand-papered. The second coat should be a little heavier than the first or priming coat. It does not dry as fast as the first. (We are speaking of good materials properly proportioned.) Each coat must be thoroughly dry before it is sand-papered. Any kind of good work requires three coats. Extra good work—four, besides varnishing.

If you succeed in doing this work inside of four weeks you are fortunate. Thus you see it requires time to do good work. Time for the men to do theirs, and time for Nature to do hers. Sometimes Nature frowns and lowers a curtain of humidity for days at a time, which prevents the oils from drying. It is possible for your painter to finish all four coats in as many days; but if he is honest and you have not hurried him unreasonably, his conscience will suffer. Good painting, like other good things, is durable, looks well, and is the cheapest in the end.

Good painters pride themselves on doing good work. So if you desire first-class work, you should give the painter a reasonable price, and sufficient time in which to do the work properly.

There is doubtless more adulteration in paint than in any materials used in house-finishing. So general is this the case that it is often difficult to get pure materials. This is caused by the low price of the products of petroleum, the earth materials used to adulterate mineral paints, and the demand for cheap work.

* * * * *

ATTENTION, ROOFERS!

Our BROAD RIB ROOFING and STEEL PLATE SHINGLES are not protected with a coat of richer metal like those made of tin or terne plate, and consequently their _durability depends upon the paint_ with which they should be covered.

For this purpose nothing, so far as we know, is equal to a mixture of _pure unboiled linseed oil_ and the _oxide of iron_. The Shingles should have two coats, one before they are put on, on both sides (this we do), the other immediately _after they are laid_. This last coat should be repeated _every four or five years_.

Remember, it is the _rust-preventing_ qualities of linseed oil, combined with the oxide of iron, that makes steel or iron sheets resist the corrosive action of oxygen, which is ever present in the atmosphere. (See page 101.)

A PERFECT ROOF.

The best can only be obtained by using good materials, worked into the best form that theory and experience can suggest.

WALTER’S PATENT “STANDARD” AND COOPER’S PATENT “QUEEN ANNE” METALLIC SHINGLES AND SIDING,

made from Tin Plate, Steel Plate, Galvanized Tin Plate, Bronze Metal, and Copper, are unrivaled for roof covering.

BECAUSE they have a perfect lock, using no cleats, springs or exposed seams.

BECAUSE they have no exposed fastenings; all nail heads are covered as perfectly as those used for wood shingles.

BECAUSE they can be applied without the necessity of soldering, and with no other tools than a hammer, a small pair of hand-tongs and tin shears.

BECAUSE they break joints by starting each alternate course with a half shingle, thus bringing the centre of the bottom of each shingle astraddle of the locked shingle below, securely binding the same and preventing rattling.

BECAUSE they are easily and rapidly put on, requiring no odd pieces at the eaves, gables or comb.

BECAUSE they lessen the expense of insurance, which extends not only to the building but to furniture and goods contained therein.

BECAUSE they do not crack, split, warp, fall off, rust or burn.

BECAUSE there are no cross seams or joints where rain or moisture can settle and cause decay.

BECAUSE we furnish with our shingles, at moderate cost, Valleys, Gable Strips, Ridge and Hip Coping, that not only improves the finish of exterior, but assists the workman to an extent that lessens the cost of applying.

Manufactured by
THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO.,
510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York City,

and for sale by Dealers in all the principal cities of the United States and Canada.

* * * * *

From BARTLETT HARDWARE CO.,

Freeport, Ill., January 10th, 1888.

THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO., New York City.

Dear Sirs:—I send you photo. of my house that you may see how
handsome a Roof the 7 × 10 Shingles make. You thought the 10 ×
14 would have been better, but this is the finest roof in this
country, and we expect to sell some the present year. Everybody
admires it. Please quote for the coming season’s trade.

Very respectfully,

F. BARTLETT, President.

WHAT OUR GOODS ARE.

In offering our goods to the public, we desire to say, briefly, that the _Walter’s Patent Metallic Shingles and Siding Plates_ have now been before this country for nearly eight years, upwards of twelve thousand buildings have been covered with them in the United States and Canada, and we feel warranted in referring to the owners of every building so covered.

Our shingles have a concealed nailing flange the entire length of the shingle on one side, and a perfect lock with a concealed gutter at the side of the nailing flange that provides for _expansion and contraction_, with sufficient ventilation to prevent sweating on the under-side, (causing rust,) so common in the cross seams of flat lock and standing seam, now in use.

Our Galvanized (Re-dipped) Shingle is our Standard Tin Shingle galvanized; and, as every square has twenty pounds of zinc coating, in addition to the first coat of tin, it will be seen why it is superior to any galvanized iron made.

Our “Old Process” prices are designed to cover such grades of double-coated plates as “Old Style,” “M.F.,” “Phelp’s Triple Plate,” “Gilbertson’s Old Method,” and “Tregoning Old Process,” all superior to the Standard Grades, and higher in price. We quote all but Galvanized, painted both sides. If any size or kind is ordered unpainted, the price will be 25 cents per square less.

Our Steel Plate Shingles are made from sheets of Bessemer steel rolled as smooth as tin plate, they are painted the same as the Standard Shingles, and when laid on a roof cannot be distinguished from them. They should be painted every five years with pure linseed oil and oxide of iron (brown mineral). They will not bear neglect; in this respect they differ from shingles made from tin plate. The price is somewhat less, but the greater durability of the Tin Shingles is worth more than the difference in price.

We make our shingles in four sizes: The smallest, 7 × 10, (showing an exposed surface, after laid, of 5½ × 9 inches,) is designed for Mansards, Spires, Siding, and other upright work. The 10 × 14, (exposed surface, 8¼ × 11½ inches,) is the popular size; and while it works to the best advantage on complicated roofs, it is equally good for plain ones. The 14 × 20, (exposed surface, 12 × 17½ inches,) is used largely on the plainer roofs, where a saving in price and labor of putting on is an item. The 20 × 28, (exposed surface, 17½ × 25½ inches,) is made from heavier metal, and is designed for warehouses, and other large surfaces; and any of the larger shingles can be used for siding equally as well.

We are prepared to make any of the above sizes from any special brand of tin plate in the market, but for our Standard goods, which we carry in stock, we use a first-class grade of roofing tin plate, warranted perfect.

SAMPLES.

We will send free, and charges paid, samples of our WALTER’S PATENT SHINGLES (three pieces) to any address in the United States on receipt of five two-cent stamps; this does not pay us one-half the expense, but we propose to make the cost as light as possible to those interested in building.

THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO.,
510 to 520 East 20th Street,
New York City.

BROAD RIB ROOFING,

=Like Our Shingles=, has a nailing flange the entire length of each sheet. =It forms a Continuous Rib= when applied from eaves to comb with cross seams twenty-five inches apart, which gives it strength and rigidity not found in roofing where longer sheets are used. =It has no protruding= anchors, cleats or rivets; all nail heads are covered as perfectly as those used for wood shingles. =There is no waste= in using, either at comb or eaves. =The Side Nailing Flange= admits of the roof being fastened to roof boards with any required degree of strength. =The Cross Seams= are formed with a folded lock which allows for contraction and expansion. =Material.=—Each sheet of this roofing is made from Best Roofing Tin, or Imported Siemen’s Sheet Steel, which is hard rolled, tough, durable and =thoroughly coated= on both sides with the best Oxide of Iron and Linseed Oil Paint. The size of sheets are 20 × 28 inches. =Tools.=—We send with each order one pair of _Metal Shears_, one _Mallet_, and a _Draw Tool_, for which we make a charge of two dollars. These tools can be returned to us by express at our expense, and the purchaser credited, or the money paid for them returned. =Important Improvements= in the manufacture of Steel Sheets enable us to put this on the market at the same price as Sheet Iron Roofing, to which it is greatly superior. =The Rib is formed= of the Walter’s Patent Lock, and is the same we have used on our shingles for the last seven years. This Lock has been thoroughly tested, and it is significant that over 25,000,000 square feet of shingles constructed upon this plan are already in use in the United States and Canada. The application of this Lock does away with a very large proportion of the work necessary in laying standing seam roofs as ordinarily applied, such as tonging up the seams, double seaming, capping or riveting the ribs, and making and using cleats or other fastenings. This roofing costs no more than wood shingles in sections where good timber is scarce. Each sheet is made from plates 20 × 28 inches. =WRITE FOR PRICES.=

The National Sheet Metal Roofing Co., 510-520 E. 20th St., N. Y. City.

THE “ATTIC” SKY-LIGHT AND VENTILATOR.

This is a novelty in roof ventilation, and possesses the advantage of admitting light as well as ventilating rooms in the garret or immediately under the roof.

It can be used on any kind of a slope roof having a pitch of three inches or more to the foot. The front is of double strength glass which is held to its place by a single catch. When used as a ventilator the glass is drawn back to the slant of the roof, and sheds what water would enter the opening during a rain storm. All the carpenter work necessary in setting the “Attic” is to saw a square hole through the roof boards at the time of putting on the roof-covering. We make them to form one plate of our Broad Rib Roofing with which it interlocks. As shown on page 55, they can be used equally as well on roofs to be covered with slate or wood shingles as with our Tin Shingles.

HOW TO SET A FINIAL.

Bore a hole in the upper end of the centre-staff and insert in it the lower end of finial rod; when the centre-staff is put to its place, plumb the finial rod by moving the lower end of the centre-staff before it is nailed to the floor or cross timbers. (See page 74.)

NET PRICES: 5 Foot $12.00. 6 Foot $14.40. 7 Foot $16.80.

For either Round, Square or Octagon. No. 1 includes all above the Shingles. (See page 73.)]

=There is no shoddy work about these Finials. They are heavy, substantially made and zinc coated.=

* * * * *

* * * * *

(Patented August 20th, 1889.)

Complete and in Sections. Fixed and Adjustable.

_The most Perfect Machine-made Elbow ever manufactured._

=First-class Finish.=—Each piece is a perfect section of a curved tube.

=A Convenience.=—The sections can be put together to form any angle.

=Durable and Strong.=—The finished elbows are redipped after being locked and riveted.

=Quality.=—Both Retinned and Galvanized.

Perfect in fitting, uniform in size and quality. Just what the practical tinsmith should use for conductors and vent pipes.

ADJUSTABLE. | FIXED. | IN SECTIONS.
Size. Tin. Galv’d.| Size. Tin. Galv’d. | Size. Tin.
3 inch $1.55 $2.00 | 3 inch $2.00 $2.00 | 3 inch $1.45
4 inch 2.80 3.90 | 4 inch 3.90 3.90 | 4 inch 2.50

_Discount_..........................

MANUFACTURED ONLY BY
THE NATIONAL SHEET METAL ROOFING CO.
510 to 520 East 20th Street, New York.

WEIGHTS.

Our goods weigh, when boxed ready for shipment, as follows:

14 × 20, No. 1, Standard 84 lbs.
10 × 14, “ “ 92 “
7 × 10, “ “ 89 “
14 × 20, No. 2, Steel 83 “
10 × 14, “ “ 89 “
14 × 20, No. 3, M. F. 100 “
10 × 14, “ “ 108 “
7 × 10, “ “ 108 “
14 × 20, No. 4, Galvanized 104½ “
10 × 14, “ “ 109½ “
7 × 10, “ “ 109½ “
Queen Anne, No. 6, Standard 121½ “
“ “ “ Galvanized 144 “
Broad Rib, No. 8, Standard 88 “
“ “ “ Steel 87 “
50 ft. Climax Ridge Coping, Tin 56½ “
50 ft. “ “ “ Galvanized 71 “
50 ft. Hip, Tin 38 “
50 ft. “ Galvanized 43 “
50 ft. Valley, Tin 45½ “
50 ft. “ Galvanized 53 “
50 ft. Gable, Tin 12½ “
50 ft. “ Galvanized 15½ “

HOW METAL SHINGLES ARE MADE.

Shingles made from wood have been common all over the world for ages. Their particular form has remained unchanged because many years’ experience has proven it to be the most durable and surest safe-guard against storms. What is true of wood for roof covering is equally true of metal for the same purpose. The first metal roofing made in America was tin sheets, laid shingle fashion, the overlapped edges of which covered the nail heads which were used to fasten them to the roof boards. Many of these old-fashioned metal (tin plate) roofs are yet in existence that were covered over one hundred years ago. The writer covered several houses in 1849 in this manner, which are in good condition now. The reason why this style of metal roofing was not common was its expense. On page 16 we give reasons why it would be more durable than the ordinary mode of laying tin roofing.

The use of Walter’s and Cooper’s patent in constructing metal shingles does away with the expense, which was a great drawback to their use, and leaves no excuse for the use of cheap, combustible material.

The National Sheet Metal Roofing Co., of New York City, have for the past eight years been manufacturing these shingles, and their use on a vast number of public and private buildings in all parts of the United States and Canada attest their superiority. Thinking that our readers would be pleased to see the process of making these shingles, we illustrate on pages 65 and 75 views taken from photographs of their paint and store room. The process requires two press operations for each shingle, and each press averages a turn out of 4,000 square feet (which is 40 squares) per day. The dies which give shape and form the corrugations of the shingles are faced with polished steel, which leaves no abrasions where they come in contact with the metal. During the past year they have added four new presses to this department to meet the requirements of the increased demand for their goods. They spare no pains to make their shingles as perfect as the best machinery can make them. All their shingles are carefully inspected before they are boxed and sent to the store room, from which they are shipped to all parts of the country. The machinery room in which the presses are located is 37 feet wide by 80 feet long, the painting department is 80 × 55 feet, and the store room the same size. We give these figures that you may form an opinion of the space required to manufacture and handle their goods.

The process of painting is first dipping the shingles in a vat of pure linseed oil and oxide of iron paint with just enough turpentine to assist in drying. They are then set on edge and left to drain, after which they are gone over with a brush and set in racks to dry, which requires several days, according to the humidity of the atmosphere. They are all air dried, no artificial heat being used. Their customers are cordially invited to call at any time and see the process of manufacturing.

* * * * *

“Why don’t you mend your roof my man?”
He drew him closer to the wall,
And answered with a lazy drawl:
“When ’t rains so hard I never can.”

“Why don’t you mend it when it’s fair?”
“Oh, then it doesn’t need repair!”
He blandly said
As he turned his head
And shook the raindrops from his hair.

From _The Metal Worker_.

PUBLIC BUILDINGS ON WHICH THE ABOVE METAL SHINGLES ARE USED.

RELIGIOUS INSTITUTIONS.

Independent Pres. Church, Savannah, Ga.
South-West Pres. Church, Omaha, Neb.
Methodist Church, Stony Point, N. Y.
Methodist Church, Graniteville, Conn.
Methodist Church, Broad River, Conn.
Asbury Methodist Church, Providence, R. I.
Second Methodist Church, Kingston, N. Y.
Pisgah Methodist Church, Pisgah, Md.
Methodist Church, Thomasville, Ga.
Elm St. Methodist Church, Nashville, Tenn.
East Nashville Methodist Church, Nashville, Tenn.
Methodist Church, Manheim, Pa.
Roman Catholic Church, Trinidad, Col.
Roman Catholic Church, Albuquerque, New Mexico.
German Evangelical Church, New Harmony, Ind.
Holy Apostles’ P. E. Church, St. Clair, Pa.
R. C. Church of St. Cecelia, N. Y. City.
R. C. Apostolic Church, Toronto, Ont.
St. Patrick’s R. C. Cathedral, Ottawa, Canada.
Baptist Church, Tura, India.
Winthrop St. Baptist Church, Taunton, Mass.
Second Baptist Church, Lawrence, Mass.
Berkeley Ave. Bap. Church, Berkeley, Va.
Baptist Church, Danbury, Conn.
Colored Baptist Church, Augusta, Ga.
Christ Episcopal Church, Richmond, Va.
St. John’s Epis. Church, Richmond, Va.
Christ Episcopal Church, Port Tobacco, Md.
St. Clement’s Episcopal Church, Chicago, Ill.
Mission Church, Aintab, Turkey.
Mission Church, Kiota, Japan.
Bethany Chapel, Troy, N. Y.
Colonial Beach Chapel, Va.
Plymouth Church, Charleston, S. C.
M. E. Church, McMinville, Tenn.
First M. E. Church, Jackson, Mich.
Christian Church, Little Rock, Ark.
Second Baptist Church, Little Rock, Ark.
First Pres. Church, Gainesville, Fla.
M. E. Church, Beatrice, Neb.
Round Hill Church, Va.
St. Paul Lutheran Church, Lititz, Pa.
Salvation Army Barracks, South Norwalk, Conn.
Methodist Church, Salt Lake City.
Christian Church, Belton, Texas.
Salvation Army Barracks, Matteawan, N. Y.
First Cong. Church, Daytona, Fla.
Jewish Synagogue, Brunswick, Ga.

RAILROADS.

Savannah, Florida and Western R. R.
North-Eastern R. R. of South Carolina.
Western and North Carolina R. R.
New York, Susquehanna and Western R. R.
Chesapeake and Ohio R. R.
Florida Railway & Navigation Company.
South Florida Railway.
Virginia Midland Railway.
Richmond and Danville R. R.
Newport News and Mississippi Valley R. R.
Chicago and Evanston R. R.
Jacksonville, Tampa and Key West R. R.
Interstate Rapid Transit Co., Kansas City, Mo.
Kansas City Cable Railway, Kansas City, Mo.
Union Passenger Railroad Co., Richmond, Va.
Franklin Avenue Line, St. Louis, Mo.
West Nashville Railroad Depot, West Nashville, Tenn.
St. Johns and Halifax R. R.
Maryland Central R. R.
Cornwall and Lebanon R. R. Co.

EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTIONS.

DePaw College, Greencastle, Ind.
Mississippi Industrial Institute and College, Columbus, Miss.
St. John’s College, Tremont, N. Y.
Las Vegas College, Las Vegas, New Mexico.
Loyola College, Collington, Md.
Woodstock College, Woodstock, Md.
Medical College, Nashville, Tenn.
Dayel College, Sparta, Tenn.
Dakota University, Mitchell, Dakota.
Public School, Richfield Springs, N. Y.
Public School, Greenville, Ky.
Public School, McCook, Neb.
Public School, Dodge City, Kansas.
Public School, Marion, Ill.
Public School, Elizabeth, Pa.
Public School, Freeport, Ill.
Public School, Paw Paw, Ill.
Public School, Hutchinson, Minn.
Thirteenth District School, Nashville, Tenn.
Tenth District School, Nashville, Tenn.
Thirteenth Ward Grammar School, Nashville, Tenn.
Fogg High School, Nashville, Tenn.
Caldwell High School, Nashville, Tenn.
Tampa High School, Tampa, Fla.
Public School, Forward Township, Allegheny Co., Pa.
Tarbox School, Nashville, Tenn.
Searight School, Nashville, Tenn.
Niagara Falls Museum, Niag. Falls, N. Y.

Hotels and State and County Buildings.