Chapter VI: Fur Dressing

DRYING AND FINISHING

One of the most important operations of all the fur dressing processes is the drying of the skins. For even when all the previous steps have been successfully completed, there is still a great possibility of the skin being injured if the drying is not properly and carefully carried out.

The essential requirements for good drying are proper temperature, uniformity and rapidity. The leather part of the fur cannot, in the moist state, resist temperatures exceeding about 45° centigrade, for when dried, the skin turns out hard and stiff, and cracks easily. The furs must therefore be dried at an initial temperature of 25° to 30° centigrade, and as the moisture is gradually removed, the temperature may be raised, for the less water that remains in the pelt, the less is the leather affected by the heat, and the more difficult is the removal of its aqueous content.

If the drying process is not a uniform one, that is, if all the skins in a lot are not subjected to the same drying conditions, then after the drying has proceeded for a certain time, some skins may be quite dry while others are not, or there may be as many different degrees of dryness as there are skins drying. There is also the possibility of great variation in the amount of moisture removed from different parts of the same skin. Such a state of affairs requires an extra expenditure of time, labor and heat power in order to get the whole lot of furs into a more or less uniform condition. Moreover in some kinds of furs, especially those with thick skins, when the drying is not even, there is danger of the epidermal layer drying away from the corium, and subsequently peeling and cracking. Uniformity of drying requires the maintenance of a reasonably constant temperature equally distributed throughout all parts of the space where the drying is done, so that all the furs may be dried under the same conditions.

Rapidity of drying is desirable not only because it is beneficial to the condition of the pelt, but also from the point of view of practical business economy. The space occupied by the drying should be as small as possible compatible with the volume of work, and with the efficiency of operation. Slow drying involves the use of much space to take care of all the skins to be dried, or an accumulation of pelts ready to be dried, neither of which conditions is efficient or desirable.

It was formerly the general custom, still practised in some establishments, to dry the skins by hanging them up, leather-side out on lines in a large room or loft, the heat being usually supplied by steam pipes. Such a procedure occupied often as long as two or three days to get complete drying, involved a great deal of labor, and the results were far from uniform. In fact, in order to get the skins more nearly equable, it was necessary to subject them to an additional operation. This usually consisted of rotating the skins in a closed drum for several hours, the constant intermingling of the pelts in contact with each other causing any moisture left in them to be evenly distributed throughout the whole lot. The skins, by this process also are rendered somewhat softer and more flexible, but by drying under proper conditions the entire extra operation can be dispensed with, the furs coming out quite as soft and flexible without the drumming.

A great improvement was the adoption of large fans to circulate the heated air in the loft, thereby approaching more nearly an even temperature. More modern devices have, however, been developed, whereby drying can be effected in the most uniform manner, with perfect control of temperature, and requiring the least possible consumption of space, time, labor and power. A typical arrangement consists of a large closed chamber, generally constructed of steel, and divided into several compartments each of which may be operated independently of the others. Air, heated over suitably located steam pipes to the required temperature, is forced through the various compartments by means of fans operated by power. The conditions may be varied in each compartment, as to temperature or humidity, both of which can easily be regulated, or all the compartments may be used together as one unit. The skins are hung up on rods or lines in the compartments, or on special frames for the purpose, which are then entered into the compartments and the doors shut. The dry, heated air is forced to pass over the skins, and takes up their moisture. At the further end of the drying chamber is another fan which removes the moisture-laden air after it has done its work. The drying is effected in from 6 to 24 hours, and all skins are obtained in the same condition, for the process is quite uniform and regular.

Within recent years there has been evolved a highly efficient and economical drying equipment, based on a somewhat different principle than underlies any of the foregoing methods. The conveyor type of dryer, as it is called, is admirably suited to the needs of the fur dressing and dyeing industry, and is undoubtedly superior to any of the previous systems of drying furs, in that it affords an enormous saving of space, time, labor and power, and gives greater uniformity and presents better working conditions.

(_Proctor & Schwartz, Inc., Philadelphia._)]

The conveyor dryer consists essentially of a steel enclosure, through which the skins pass on horizontal conveyors. Where special insulation is necessary, asbestos panels are used to line the enclosure, making the dryer absolutely fireproof, and enabling the maximum utilization of heat. In the middle of the dryer are located the steam coils which furnish the heat, and in many instances exhaust steam can be used as the source of heat. Figure 10 shows diagrammatically the arrangement and operation of the conveyor type of dryer. The enclosure is divided into several compartments, in each of which a different condition of temperature and humidity is maintained, the temperature being closely and accurately regulated by an automatic control, and once the dryer has been set for any condition, all skins will be dried exactly the same, regardless of weather or season.

(_Proctor & Schwartz, Inc., Philadelphia._)]

The skins to be dried are placed on poles which in turn are set on the horizontal conveyors as in Fig. 11. As the skins pass through the compartments, large volumes of air, heated to the required temperature over the steam coils, are circulated among the skins by means of the fans. Exhaust fans, properly placed, remove a certain quantity of moisture-laden air when it has accomplished its full measure of work. When the skins on the conveyors have passed the full length of the dryer, they are entirely dry, and are then removed from the poles. (Fig. 12). The time required for drying varies according to the nature of the fur from 1–2 hours to 6–8 hours. In tests made to determine the relative efficiency of the conveyor type of dryer as against the old “loft” method, it was found that there was a saving of over 50% in power, and of 85% in floor space, as well as a great saving of labor, when the conveyor system was used, the number of skins dried in a given period of time being the same in both cases. The advantages of the new method are easily apparent, and the saving is sufficiently great with large lots of furs, to make an appreciable difference in the final cost of dressing.

If the skins have been dried by a modern drying system they all come out in a uniform condition, and are ready to go on immediately to the next operation. If, however, a form of the “loft” method of drying has been used, it is customary to subject the skins to an additional process. The dried pelts are put in drums with damp sawdust, and drummed for a short time in order to get them into the proper condition. The drumming is essential for the purpose of equalizing the condition of the pelts, some being drier than others, and as a consequence of the contact with the moist sawdust, they are all brought to the same degree of dryness. As a result of this operation also, the skins become considerably softened.

(_Proctor & Schwartz, Inc., Philadelphia._)]

Then if the pelts have not been previously oiled during the tanning process, or prior to the drying, they receive this treatment now. The oil or fat is applied to the leather side of the furs, which are then placed in the tramping machine for a short time in order to cause the oil to be forced into the skin. The fibres of the corium thus become coated with a thin layer of fatty material, which contributes greatly to the softness and flexibility of the pelt, and increases its resistance to the action of water, and also, in certain instances a partial chamois tan is produced, thereby improving the quality of the leather.

(_Reliable Machine Works, Evergreen, L. I._)]

The skins are now returned to the work bench, and subjected to the stretching or “staking” process. This consists in drawing the skin in all directions over the edge of a dull blade, which is usually fixed upright in a post with the edge up. Or, the stretching may be done on the fleshing bench, substituting a dull blade for the fleshing knife. Recently staking machines are being used in the larger establishments, the work being done much more quickly and efficiently. As a result of this operation, the leather becomes very soft and flexible, every bit of hardness and stiffness being eliminated, and the skins receive their maximum stretch, thereby giving the greatest possible surface to the pelage. This not only helps to bring out the beauty of the hair, but is also a decided advantage from the economic point of view, as a considerable saving of material is effected in this way, sometimes even to the extent of twenty-five per cent. Cased skins are stretched in a somewhat different manner, by means of stretching irons. These consist of two long iron rods joined by a pivot at one end. The skins are slipped on to the irons, which are then spread apart, and in this way the skins are stretched and softened. A machine which does this work very efficiently is shown in Fig. 13. The skin is drawn onto the stretching arms, in this case made of bronze, which are then forced apart by pressing on a pedal. When properly stretched to the maximum width in all directions possible, and thus thoroughly softened, the skin can easily be reversed, that is, turned hair-side out. As many as 6000 skins can be stretched, or 4000 to 5000 skins stretched and reversed by one man in one day on such a machine.

(_S. M. Jacoby Co., New York._)]

The pelts are then combed and beaten. In smaller plants these operations are done by hand, but suitable machines are being employed. In order to straighten out the hair, it is combed or brushed. Then in order to loosen up the hair, and to cause it to display its fullness, the furs are beaten. This process is also done by hand in some establishments, but up-to-date places use mechanical devices for this purpose. A type of machine which has proven very successful, and is enjoying considerable popularity is shown in Fig. 14. These machines are also made with special suction attachments which remove all dust as it comes out of the beaten skin, thereby making this formerly unhealthful operation thoroughly sanitary and hygienic.

The final process is drum-cleaning. This operation is intended specifically for the benefit of the hair part of the fur, and is very important inasmuch as the attractive appearance of the fur depends largely upon it. The drum, such as is shown in Fig. 15 is generally made of wood, or sometimes of wood covered with galvanized iron. The skins together with fine hardwood sawdust are tumbled for 2 to 4 hours, or sometimes longer. Occasionally a little asbestos or soapstone is added to the sawdust; for white, or very light-colored skins, gypsum or white sand is used, either alone, or in admixture with the sawdust; and for darker skins, graphite or fine charcoal is sometimes added in small quantities. The drum-cleaning process polishes the hair, giving it its full gloss and lustre, and at the same time absorbing any oil or other undesirable matter which may be adhering to the hair as a result of the washing and tanning processes. Any soap, or traces of mordant are wiped off and so removed, and by using heated sawdust, or heating the drum while rotating, the fur acquires a fullness and play of the hair which are great desiderata in furs. The sawdust must then be shaken out of the furs. This is done by cageing. In some instances, the drum itself can be converted into a cage, by replacing the solid door with one made of a wire screen. (Fig. 16.) Usually, however, the skins are removed from the drum and put in a separate cage, which is built like the drum, but has a wire net all around it, through which the sawdust falls, while the skins are held back. The cages are generally enclosed in compartments in order to prevent the sawdust from flying about and forming a dust which would be injurious to the health of the workers. In large establishments, the drum-cleaning machinery occupies a large section of the plant, many drums and cages being used, and special arrangements being made to take care of the sawdust which can be used over again several times, until it becomes quite dirty.

(_F. Blattner, Brooklyn, New York._)]

(_F. Blattner, Brooklyn, New York._)]

With this operation ends the ordinary procedure of fur dressing. But there are several additional processes required in the treatment of certain furs, which are generally undertaken by the dresser, and chief among these are shearing and unhairing. Sometimes this work is done in separate establishments organized solely for this business. Certain kinds of furs, among them being seal, beaver and nutria, possess top-hair which may detract from the beauty of the fur, the true attractiveness being in the fur-hair. The top-hairs are therefore removed, and for this purpose machines are now being used. Formerly this work was all done by hand, and on the more expensive furs like seal and beaver, unhairing is now done on a machine operated by hand. The principle of the process is as follows: The skins are placed on a platform and the hair blown apart by means of a bellows. The stiff top-hairs remain standing up, and sharp knives are brought down mechanically to the desired depth, and the hair is cut off at that point. The skin is then moved forward a short distance, and the process repeated until all the top-hairs have thus been cut out. With muskrats, or other pelts which do not require such very careful attention, the whole process is done automatically on a machine. The fur-hair is brushed apart by means of brushes and a comb, and at regular intervals, sharp knives cut off the top-hairs. Several hundred skins can be unhaired in a day on such a machine requiring the attention of only one man. A machine for unhairing skins is shown in Fig. 17.

(_Seneca Machine & Tool Co., Inc., Brooklyn, N. Y._)]

With other furs, such as rabbits, hares, etc., where the trouble of unhairing would be too great commensurate with its advantages, the hair is sheared instead. The top hair is cut down to the same length as the under-hair by means of shearing machines which can be regulated to cut to any desired length of hair. A typical device for shearing furs is shown in Fig. 18.

(_Seneca Machine & Tool Co., Inc., Brooklyn, N. Y._)]