Chapter VI: Part 6

60. Your coloured fire is now complete and ready for firing. This is the usual and most convenient way of preparing colours for exhibitions. But for your own experiments you may place a small quantity of the composition to be tried upon a tile or brick, not spreading it about, but piling it into a pyramidal heap, to be lighted at the top. Many persons adopt this plan for exhibitions, but it is not good, because several of the best compositions burn too rapidly when unconfined by a case. I only beg that you will do me the justice to remember that the formulas which I have given above are intended to furnish compositions suitable for burning in such cases as I have described, and not, as a general rule, adapted for open and loose burning. My plan all along has been this—to find compositions of sufficient freedom of combustion to enable them to consume their case, to give a powerful light, and not to burn out too rapidly. I think I have succeeded in gaining the first two of these qualities in the compositions themselves, and the third by compressing them closely in cases.

It is very much better to put into each case two different sorts or colours of fire, making the fire, for instance, change from white to red, or from green to purple. But if this be done, and more than one case is to be burning at a time, of course an especial regard must be had to the contrast of colour. You should never burn a yellow with a red fire, or a yellow with a white; green with red, yellow with purple, white with red make the best contrasts.

But, for my own part, I never burn two Bengal fires of different colours at once. If the fires have any illuminative power at all, they are pretty certain to neutralise one another’s effect, and so give you a very poor and unsatisfactory return for your outlay. It is very true that red and green are _complementary_ colours, as they are called, and look very well side by side, but the effect produced upon an object by illuminating it with a red and green light is anything but complementary to the object or to the coloured fires themselves. If you wish, however, to try the effect of the contrast, use compositions possessing the greatest depth of colour and the least reflective power; in this case the fires themselves will be complementary one to another, and their non-illuminative properties will effectually prevent any confusion of reflection. That what I have said above is true any one may discover by getting two pieces of stained glass, one of a rich red, the other of a rich green colour. Let these colours be thoroughly _transparent_, and if you place one before the other and attempt to look through them, you will find that you have a medium through which very little can be seen at all.

The cases of coloured fire, made as directed above, must not be placed perpendicularly to be fired, but _horizontally_. The reason of this is very simple. While they are burning a sort of boiling lava is formed, which is the refuse of the combustion, and this will considerably clog the flame and rob it of much of its light if allowed to remain at the mouth of the case. Now if the cases be placed horizontally, this lava will fall away as it forms, and leave the fire to burn without impediment.

All that it is necessary to do to give the cases this horizontal position is to drive two long, stout nails into a post horizontally, about an inch and a-half apart, and lay the case on these. Coloured fires should, as a general rule, be fired at a distance of about three or four feet from the ground.

But as one cannot always find nails of the proper sort for these purposes, especially when at a distance from one’s own stores, I have sketched for you an iron which I always use, fig. 91, and which I am sure you will find convenient. It is made in the shape of a tuning-fork, with a screw at its handle; this screw is simply twisted into a gimlet-hole in a post, and is easily put up or removed.

I must not omit to say a few words with regard to the placing of coloured fires. This must depend mainly upon individual taste, but a few hints may not be out of place. I cannot help thinking that the best and most effective way of displaying coloured fires is _to conceal the fire itself, and let only its illumination or reflection be seen_. Let any of my readers keep his spectators at a distance of twenty or thirty yards from the coloured fire, and hold up a tray or piece of board in front of the fire, of such a size as will conceal only the fire itself. I think it will be generally admitted that the beauty of the piece is much enhanced by this simple contrivance, and if it be thought so, then it becomes a consideration whether it would not be better to use the most illuminative colours always out of sight, in such a position that their effect only can be seen. For instance, if there be a large tree conveniently at hand, place your colour on that side of it which is away from the spectators, so that the trunk of the tree is between them and the coloured fire. This plan I have always found to give a most charming result.

But it must be remembered that anything but highly illuminative colours cannot be employed in this manner. You will of course find objectors to the plan mentioned above. There are many people who will tell you, “No, I like to see the light itself,” as if gazing on the sun or moon, except for astronomical purposes, could ever give half the pleasure that the sight of a fine sunlit or moonlit landscape can impart.

What would a fairy scene in a pantomime be worth if you saw some of the green-room myrmidons, with a pot of beer in one hand and a lucifer-match in the other, lighting a heap of composition on a tile beside the stage, and then saw the composition burst into a smoky flame, but were prevented from seeing the effects of its colour?

This suggests to me another branch of my present subject, which some of my readers may consider an important one.

COLOURED FIRES FOR THEATRICAL PURPOSES.

61. In the event of private theatricals you may not, or your friends may not, like their drawing-room to be filled with a strong sulphurous smoke, which is pretty certain to hang about the drapery of the room and the dresses of the company for some unpleasantly long time. I shall therefore give you now two or three formulas for coloured fires which may be safely used in a room, and which contain no sulphur.

But first let me give you this caution, which it is most highly important that you should attend to:—

NEVER BURN ANY COLOURED FIRE COMPOSITION INDOORS, OR IN ANY INCLOSED SPACE, WHICH CONTAINS ORPIMENT, REALGAR, OR ANY PREPARATION OF ARSENIC AMONGST ITS INGREDIENTS. THE FUMES FROM SUCH COMPOSITIONS MUST BE VERY INJURIOUS. THEY CAN ONLY BE USED WITH SAFETY OUT-OF-DOORS.

COLOURED FIRES FOR THEATRICAL
PURPOSES.
WHITE.
No. 14.
Chlorate of potash 12 parts.
Nitre 4 „
Sugar 4 „
Stearine 1 part.
Carbonate of baryta 1 „

This does not give a pure white light, for it is impossible to get a real white without sulphur, but when used to overpower theatrical lamplight, it is to all intents and purposes white.

YELLOW FIRE.
No. 15.
Chlorate of potash 6 parts.
Nitre 6 „
Oxalate of soda 5 „
Shellac 3 „

Nitrate of baryta may be substituted for nitre in the above formula with advantage, provided it be very dry and fine.

GREEN FIRE.
No. 16.
Chlorate of potash 2 parts.
Sugar 1 part.
Nitrate of baryta 1 „

This green colour is but faint in itself, but gives a very good reflection.

RED FIRE.
No. 17.
Nitrate of strontia 4 parts.
Chlorate of potash 1 part.
Shellac 1 „

These colours are for the most part very rapid in their combustion, and therefore may be used in cases if you please. But as coloured fires for theatrical purposes are only required to last a short time, the more brilliant they are during that time the better.

CHINESE FLYERS OR SAXONS.

62. I now treat of the manufacture of Chinese flyers, or Saxons, as they are called by professional pyrotechnists. But it will not be sufficient merely to speak of the manner in which they are made—we must follow them into some of those combinations in complex designs in which they fulfil a very striking part.

And first the object of the Chinese flyer is to produce a circle of white fire, unattended by any scintillating radii, which can be easily worked into large pyrotechnic designs, and which is at the same time easy of construction.

The Chinese flyer forms a very pretty little piece of itself when properly made, but its principal use is in combination. It is of two kinds, and these are known by the names of the “single” or “double” Saxon or flyer.

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SINGLE SAXON FLYER.

63. First we will speak of the single Saxon. Its case should be eleven inches in length, and should be made round a “former” of the one-ounce size. In order to cut your paper and board of a proper size for these cases, refer to the following woodcuts. Open a sheet of 60 lb. brown paper of the imperial size, and divide it in halves lengthwise. At fig. 92 it will be seen that each sheet of paper will give you two cases. If you use 70-lb. brown paper instead of that of the 60 lb. substance, you will hardly require any imperial board. But I think that the cases are better when made with a piece of the board used with the paper. Supposing, then, that you employ 60 lb. brown paper, cut your imperial board as shown at fig. 92a, that is, into eight equal pieces, one of which is to be used with each strip of paper.

Fig. 92.
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Fig. 92a.
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Now paste your paper and board well all over, for you will require a hard, strong case. Then proceed to roll your paper round the former, folding it over in the manner described at par. 39. Then place upon the unfolded paper the piece of imperial board, and roll both up together into a close firm case. Your former should be moistened with paste, and particular care must be taken that the inner fold of the paper, that which lies next to the former, is well saturated with paste. This will effectually prevent its being separated afterwards when dry, and will obviate one cause of failure and explosions. I have before explained the necessity for attending to this piece of advice in speaking on tourbillons. The cases for these Chinese flyers are, in fact, very much like those made for Roman Candles, but as they are to contain a very much stronger composition, must have so much additional care bestowed upon their preparation.

The next thing necessary is to know the principle upon which these Chinese flyers are made. A reference to fig. 93 will make this easily intelligible. The composition is rammed into the cases in two compartments, between which and at the extreme ends of which some dry powdered clay is driven in. The clay in the centre of the case is put there to form a solid substance, through which a hole can be bored to admit the spindle on which the case is to revolve. The clay at the extremities of the case is driven there to form a hard ending which is capable of resisting the force of the combustion of the composition. The intervening spaces between the ends and centre of clay are filled with composition.

The cases are filled over a settle proper for the purpose, of which a sketch is given at fig. 104. When the cases are dry, take one of them and place one of its ends over the projecting piece at the top of the settle. You will now require a long drift, rather less than half-an-inch in diameter, so that it will pass easily in and out of the case. It must, of course, be of a length not less than that of your case. I must suppose that you provided yourself with a ladle proper for filling the cases of brilliant fire, and the wheel-cases, of which I have treated. The same ladle will now come into use again. In case you have not such a ladle, buy or make yourself one in metal which will pass easily into cases of the one-ounce size. In this ladle take up as much powdered clay as will, when driven, occupy a quarter of an inch in the length of the case. Drive it in firmly by means of your drift and mallet. Then put in the composition, for which the following are the formulas:—

COMPOSITION FOR
SAXONS.
Meal-powder 16 parts
Nitre 8 „
Sulphur 6 „

Or,

Meal-powder 6 „
Nitre 3 to 4 „
Sulphur 2 „
Antimony 2 „

Of these two I prefer the former, but the latter is perhaps better when the flyers are to to be fired singly, as it produces a much greater halo of sparks.

Now drive in the selected composition, a ladleful at a time, giving from twelve to sixteen blows to each, until it rises to half-an-inch below the middle of the case. It is a good plan to mark cases, so that there shall be no possibility of mistake as to where this point is. Remember that you will require one inch of clay in the exact centre of the case, in the middle of which clay you will have afterwards to bore a hole. Upon the top of this clay ram in more composition until the case is filled to about three-eighths of an inch from the end. Upon this second composition drive in as much powdered clay as you drove in at the other end of the case, taking care that it is made very firm, and is not at all likely to be blown out by the combustion of the composition.

The next thing to be done is to bore the central hole through the clay. I do this generally with a bradawl first, and afterwards with a pin-bit or spoon-bit. The size of spindle which is best adapted for such fireworks as these is that which is three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter. I should therefore use a bradawl of about an eighth of an inch in diameter first, and then a pin-bit of the same size as the spindle to be employed. Care must be taken that the hole is not made unnecessarily large, and that it is bored at right angles with the length of the case.

Having accomplished this, you have in the next place to bore the holes from which the fire is to issue. These are to be made on opposite sides of the case at each end, and about half-an-inch from the ends of the case. I make these holes with a bradawl, beginning with a small one and finishing with one rather less than three-sixteenths of an inch in diameter. I believe the true size of the awl that I use to finish with is five thirty-seconds of an inch. I mention this because some considerable nicety is required with regard to the sizes of these holes, otherwise the Saxon will either burst or not have force enough. The compositions that I have given have reference to holes of the above size, and will not be found to succeed well with any other sized aperture. I bore these holes about half-way through the composition, and then nearly fill up the hole with some of the same composition, leaving room for the ends of the match to be pressed in. A very convenient instrument for filling up these holes after boring, also for filling up tourbillon holes and the necks of wheel or brilliant fire cases, is that represented at fig. 94, which consists of a piece of stout brass wire driven into a bradawl-handle, and having a flat end. This simple instrument will serve also to press in the ends of the quick-match which is to connect the extremities of the case.

At fig. 93 is represented the manner in which the quick-match is applied. A hole is bored at A. A piece of match is put into it and carried to the end of the case for the convenience of lighting the flyer. A piece of thin paper is pasted over the match and round the end of the flyer to keep the match in its place, and to protect it from injury and from taking fire before its time. Another hole is made at B just large enough to admit an end of quick-match. The match is inserted into this hole, and is carried on to another hole at C, bored exactly like the one at A, and at the same distance from the end of the case, but on the opposite side.

The reason for all this contrivance will be readily understood. The Chinese flyer is lighted at the match which enters the hole A. It revolves on the spindle which is passed through its centre, and in a direction opposite to that of its mouth. The composition continues to burn till it reaches the point marked B, when it communicates its fire by means of the quick-match with the other aperture at C. If the flyer be required to burn by itself, a piece of touch-paper should be pasted round the end at A, and twisted into a point. If, however, it is to be connected with other pieces, some thin paper should be used, two or three folds thick, and projecting an inch beyond the end of the case, so as to allow the communicating match from the other pieces to be tied in.

In my opinion no Saxon or Chinese flyer, single or double, used singly or in combination, should be without a colour in its centre. For this purpose colours in cases of the one-ounce size will be found sufficient. A case an inch long, independently of its clay end, will burn as long as is required. It may be fixed on in such a position as that indicated at D in fig. 3. It can either be tied on with wire or glued on, or fastened in both ways if considered necessary. It must be connected by quick-match with the end of the case which is fired first.

The colours that I recommend to be used for this purpose are those given at Nos. 21, 22, and 26, in paragraph 50. It is a good plan to fill the cases with at least two colours, if the Saxon is to be fired by itself, so that it may have a varied centre. But if the piece is to consist of more than one Saxon, then it is best to employ a separate colour, which does not change, with each. I shall say more about the construction of pieces consisting of Saxons presently, when I have described the making of what is known among pyrotechnists under the name of the

DOUBLE SAXON.

64. This, though a larger firework than the single, is quite as easily made, and is more effective. It consists of two cases attached to a wooden centre, such as is represented at fig. 95. It is simply a turned piece of light wood, having ends of such a size as will fit tightly into the Saxon cases. It is about five inches and a-half long, and four inches and a quarter between its shoulders. You can procure these in any quantity of Mr. Darby or Mr. Newman.

The cases for double Saxons are made in the same manner as described above for the single Saxons, but are of a different length. The following directions for the division of paper and board will give you cases of a size proper for double Saxons:—

Cut your 60lb. brown paper lengthwise into three equal strips, as represented at the annexed fig. 96. By this division your cases will be about seven and a-half inches in length. Your imperial board must be cut, as shown in the illustration at fig. 97, into twelve equal pieces; so that four sheets of 60lb. brown paper, and one of imperial board, will give you material enough for twelve cases, and therefore enough for six double Saxons.

Fig. 96.
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The cases are to be filled in the same way as directed above under the head of single Saxons. After placing your case upon the settle, drive in as much clay as will, when compressed, occupy a quarter of an inch, and see that it is very firm and secure. Then drive in your composition (made from one of the formulas given above) a ladleful at a time, until you have filled the case to within an inch of the end. Drive in another small quantity of clay, and you will then have three-quarters of an inch, or thereabouts, of unoccupied space at the end of the case. This is to be filled with the end of the wooden centre represented at fig. 95. When your two cases are filled, _glue them on to the centre_, taking care that they are not likely to come unfastened by any fair means. You will have no trouble in boring the central hole for these, for you buy them already bored in the right manner.

Fig. 97.
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But you will have to bore through the case to the composition, to make a vent for the fire. The holes are to be made about half-an-inch from each end, and on opposite sides, as represented at A and B in fig. 98. After boring the holes, be careful to fill them up again with some of the same composition, leaving only room enough to receive the ends of the quick-match, which should be pressed in with the little instrument represented at fig. 94. This quick-match is first to be put into the hole at A and secured there, and then carried over that end of the case and down the other side to the hole at B, where it is to be secured in the same way. Over the quick-match is to be pasted a piece of thin paper. A strip an inch wide and twenty inches long is what is required for this purpose. This strip is to be pasted all along the match. This will prevent its being injured or ignited at the wrong time.

It is hardly necessary for me to state that the same plan must be adopted with regard to the quick-match that is put to single Saxons. The paper is simply to be pasted over the match in the same way as is done in the case of tourbillons.

A wider strip of paper is next to be cut, which is to be pasted round the end A of the double Saxon, and to project beyond the end, in order to receive the quick-match from other pieces.

In order to attach a colour to the centre of these double Saxons (and they should never be used without a colour), a nail may be driven into the wooden centre, in the position indicated at C, in fig. 98, and the coloured fire case bound to the nail with a round or two of fine wire. The case at C must then be connected by quick-match with the end at A.

All the double Saxons that I have seen have been made in this manner, but there is no reason why they should not burn one end at a time, like the single Saxons. The difference will be that if both ends take fire at once, the pieces will last just half the time that they would otherwise take. The compositions that I have recommended for filling them are quite strong enough to make them revolve well, if only burning at one end; but if the two ends are arranged to burn simultaneously, a much more perfect circle of white fire is produced, and this, I presume, is the object of their always being made to burn double.

In deciding whether they shall burn singly or not, you must take into consideration the questions, How are they to be used? and, With what other pieces are they to burn? You will, no doubt, have plenty of devices of your own making into which these illuminated Saxons will enter. A very little experience will show you their effect, and teach you how long they last, and how to regulate their use.

And here let me give you a hint that you will find very useful with regard to these, and to all fireworks which can be used in combination. Whenever you ascertain the length of time that any piece—say a Roman candle, a brilliant gerbe, a Saxon, or a wheel-case—is in burning, make a note of it in a book kept for the purpose. It will save you much trouble and calculation, and will add very much to the beauty of your compound pieces, to have a written statement of the duration of any component part of them, so that you may have no excess in any particular, and that it may appear that your design has been made with judgment, and is not the result of a chance mixture of pieces.

I trust that I have left no particular unnoticed in my directions for making these single and double Saxons. If I have, I hope that the principle on which they are constructed is laid down with sufficient clearness to put the mode of its working out beyond a doubt.

SAXON WHEEL.

65. I now wish to supply a few designs for combinations in which these Saxons, together with other pieces, find a place. The first that I shall give will be that which is called a Saxon wheel. It consists of a wooden framework about three feet in diameter, having six spokes, and into three of these spokes the spindles are driven on which three double Saxons are to revolve. On the circumference of the wheel, cases are tied filled with brilliant fire made from the following formula:—

Meal-powder 4 parts.
Steel filings 1 part.

These cases may be of the one-ounce size, and must burn _two_ at a time. This is easily effected by connecting the mouths of the cases, _on opposite sides of the wheel_, with quick-match, and then from the tails of these cases carrying leaders to the heads of the next two, and so on. The number of cases on the circumference is not a matter of importance. I have drawn six in the sketch at fig. 100. In the centre should be placed a single triangle wheel, the cases on which may be of the “fixed case” size, spoken of in paragraph 41, but not quite so long—five and a-half inches will be found long enough. The cases on this triangle wheel may be filled with the brilliant fire. The piece will then require—

6 one-ounce wheel-cases in brilliant fire.
3 triangle wheel-cases in brilliant fire.
3 double Saxons, illuminated with colours.

You may make this wheel perform in any manner that you choose. I may, however, suggest one order for its performance. I should first light the triangle wheel, and let its three cases expend themselves. This central triangle must revolve upon the same axis on which the larger wheel turns. Then I should advise you to fire the two connected cases on opposite sides of the large wheel, and let these convey their fire to the other cases which follow them. When four of these cases are consumed (or rather, I should say, when _two couples_ of these cases are consumed), fire the quick-match which connects the illuminated Saxons.

You will see that the central triangle is a separate piece, and will not require to be connected with the other part of the design. The Saxons must be connected by quick-match with one another, and must have a leader left by which to fire them. The outside wheel-cases must also have a leader by which they can be ignited at the proper moment. Especial care must be taken that these leaders are not too near one another, or you will probably find your whole piece ignited at one time, and not in the order which you had intended it to observe. The triangle wheel will, of course, be in front of the other wheel, and so the fire from it will not start the other pieces before their time. The best plan for igniting the Saxons at the right moment is to make a fuze to last just the time that the two first couples of wheel-cases take to burn out, and so to convey its fire to the Saxons. These fuzes are a larger sort of portfire, primed at both ends, with a quick-match leading to and from them. The fuze must be lighted by the same leader which fires the wheel-cases, and if it be only of the proper length, will when consumed pass its fire on to the Saxons at the proper time.

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In the sketch at fig. 100 it will be seen that the cases at A A are to burn together; those at B B will follow them; and while A A and B B are burning, the fuze at D is also burning, and should last precisely the same time. Then when C C take their fire from B B, the Saxons take their fire from the fuze at D. I hope this is intelligible. I can answer for the beauty of the design if properly carried out. You may put on the three Saxons a red, a green, and a purple fire, which will make a good contrast, and you will further improve your piece by putting a changeable colour on the centre of the triangle wheel. Put the end of the leader E in such a position that it is not ignited by the fire from the triangle.

There is also a very pretty fixed piece, of more simple construction than the above, in which you may use three single Saxons. It consists of three Saxons illuminated, and three fixed cases of brilliant fire. A fuze will be found useful in this piece as in the last, but you can do without it here. Connect the three Saxons with leaders; connect also the three fixed cases with leaders, and carry from these another leader to some point where you can conveniently light it with a portfire. Fire the Saxons (which we will suppose are single ones) and let them burn until one end of each is consumed; then fire the fixed cases of brilliant fire, which should each have a report at its end. A sketch of the shape of this piece is given at fig. 101.

SAXON SQUARE.

66. The next design that I shall give is known by the name of the Saxon square. The sketch at fig. 99 shows the form of it. It consists of a square wooden frame, used _diamond-wise_—that is with one of its _angles_ downwards, and not one of its sides downwards. The pieces required to mount it are as follows:—

8 brilliant fixed cases.
4 Saxons illuminated with colours.
1 illuminated triangle wheel for centre.

The framework may be about 30 inches square. In the centre place a brilliant illuminated triangle wheel. A _double_ triangle will be the best for this purpose, and will make the piece last longer. If the Saxons burn at both ends at once, they must be fired with the brilliant fixed cases; but if one end only burns at a time, the fixed cases may burn with the second halves of the Saxons. The fixed cases should all be reported.

Let two of the cases on the triangle wheel burn first; then let the colour in the centre of the triangle take fire, and burn with the remaining four cases; then let the first halves of the Saxons take fire when the fourth wheel-case begins, and let the brilliant cases come on with the sixth of the wheel-cases, and with the second halves of the Saxons. In this and in all other cases where a triangle, or any wheel is employed, as a centre, it must be brought well forward so that its fire will not injure any other part of the piece.

If it be thought advisable to increase slightly the size and beauty of this piece, place three brilliant fixed cases in the intervals between the Saxons instead of two, and let them be fixed so as to form a kind of Prince of Wales’s feather in each place.

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I now come to a design which I have used, and can, therefore, speak from experience of the beauty of its effect. I employed it at the close of an exhibition, and I can assure you that it makes no inconsiderable finale.

It consists of the following component parts:—

16 brilliant fixed cases reported.
4 double Saxons illuminated.
4 five-pointed stars.

This piece will be much better if it has a brilliant triangle, or double triangle, wheel in its centre. If a double triangle be used, it will begin first and last out through the performance of the piece. The sketch given at fig. 102 will speak for itself as to design, shape, outline, &c., &c. But I may as well suggest in this case, as I have in the others, an order for its changes, or _mutations_, as the authorities delight to call them.

I will suppose that you use a brilliant double triangle wheel in the centre. This, of course, has six small cases upon it, and should have also a colour in its centre. Fire this wheel first, and let two of its cases be consumed. Then fire the four coloured lights which are to be substituted for the five-pointed stars. Two of these coloured lights may be _green_, and two _purple_. Then when two more of the cases on the triangle are burnt out, strike in the double Saxons and the brilliant fixed cases.

This piece will, of course, take you some time to make, and will require some patience and a good deal of nicety and precision in its arrangements. But it will fully repay you for all the pains that you bestow upon its preparation. I think the colour on the double triangle wheel had better be purple; those on the Saxons red; the other four colours, as I have said, green and purple.

At fig. 103 I have drawn the wooden centre of a double Saxon to show you an easier way of fastening on your colours. You have simply to bore a hole with a small bradawl through the clay end of the coloured light case, and pass through it a piece of small soft iron or copper wire. The ends of the wire are then bent round the wooden centre, and twisted together tightly at the back.

Fig. 104 represents a settle proper for the making of Saxons. It is to be fixed or screwed into a block, such as I have drawn in the illustrations for Roman candles.

SERPENT MINES.

67. We now come to a very useful and effective feature in pyrotechnic displays, which, although rather short-lived in its performance, produces quite as much aërial decoration as any piece that can be employed. I speak of the mine, whether charged with serpents or crackers.

It would be difficult to find a better single accompaniment to the concluding piece of a small exhibition than a really good serpent mine. But these pieces need not necessarily be used as accompaniments; they may also be made up as separate pieces. Of these combinations I shall speak hereafter.

And first, for the information of those who do not know what a mine is, or what its performance is, I may say that it consists of a cylindrical box, made either of thick paper or iron; and this box contains a number of small serpents having reports; these serpents are placed in the box in such a manner that their mouths may all readily take fire at the same instant, at which instant they are blown out of the box to the height of fifty or sixty feet in the air, where they be-have themselves in a most lively and somewhat eccentric manner, until a smart pop from each brings their gambols to a close by turning their carcasses inside out.

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Now comes the question, “How are we to charm these little serpents into doing as we please?” The following answer to this question will, I trust, leave nothing unexplained or difficult of comprehension.

In the first place, with regard to the serpents themselves, I cannot think that you will find it worth your while to be troubled with the manufacture of them. The work is dirty, troublesome, and rather expensive, because you can do nothing without a choking apparatus proper for this purpose, and when you set in array against these disadvantages the very low price of the serpents, as you can buy them of Mr. Darby, of 98 Regent Street, Lambeth, which is, I believe, at the rate of three shillings per gross, primed and ready for use, I think you will agree with me that the best plan is to wash your hands altogether of their manufacture, and to buy them where you can depend upon their being uniformly good and reasonable in price.

These serpents are generally about two inches and three-quarters in length, and are of a very convenient size for the purpose. I will suppose that you have provided yourself with some of these, and that you want to make one of such serpent mines as can be bought at the firework shops.

The first thing for you to do is to decide upon the size of mine that you require. In my opinion, very small mines are not worth making. I should never think of putting less than _two dozen_ serpents into a mine. If you will take my advice you will determine upon one or two sizes, and keep to them; you will find this by far the most convenient plan.

The two sizes which I should recommend are those whose cases are _two inches and a-half_ and _three inches_ in diameter. The latter will discharge three dozen serpents, and will, I think, be found large enough for all purposes.

If you want a former round which to make the case, _or mortar_, as it is called, of the two and a-half inch size, you can generally find one ready made at the draper’s. They have them as rollers for silks, &c., and the above is one of their sizes. I have found one of these very convenient.

In the next place you must always keep your eye on the look-out for old odd pieces of thick brown paper, or sugar paper, or any thick paper used for parcels, and turn them to account; any old pieces of cardboard may also be worked in. You will want a case or mortar _seven inches long_, and so well pasted and closely rolled that you can hardly bend it with your fingers. Do not spare the paste, nor imagine that you can dispense with the roller board. Well paste the former and all the paper, and when you have finished the mortar, set it by, and do not use it till it is thoroughly dry and hard, but at the same time do not attempt to hurry the drying over, and so warp it and put it out of shape.

You will now have a round hard cylinder of pasteboard, open at both ends. Cut a piece of deal or other wood, of a size that will fit tightly into one of these ends, and _about an inch thick_, and glue it in, to make a firm bottom to the mortar, so that it has no chance of coming out.

Now weigh out one-ounce of common gunpowder; such as is sold at the shops at about 1s. per pound is quite good enough for this purpose. Put this into a piece of _thin_ paper, and make it up into a neat little flat circular parcel as shown at fig. 105. It should be as nearly as possible the same size as the interior of the mortar. You will find that the mortar of the two and a-half inch size is capable of holding about twenty-eight serpents. But, whatever sized former you use for the mortar, ascertain how many serpents will be required to fill it, remembering that they are by no means required to fit in tightly; that if they are fitted in tightly your mortar is pretty sure to be blown to pieces, which catastrophe is by all means to be avoided. Having ascertained the number of serpents required, tie them into a bundle with cotton. This will enable you to pass them without any trouble into the mortar. But before putting them in take out the centre serpent, and tie to its neck a piece of quick-match in the manner represented in fig. 106. This match is to convey the fire to the mouths of the serpents, and so on to the packet of powder. When the piece of match has been attached as directed above, replace the serpent in the midst of the bundle. Take notice that that part of the match which projects beyond the mouth of the serpent _is to be uncovered_—that is, is to have its case cut away from it.

Now in order to insure the proper lighting of all the serpents, I have adopted a plan which I have always found successful. The usual plan is to smear the flat side of the packet of gunpowder with meal-powder-paste, and to let the serpents stand mouth downwards upon this. I am well aware that many good mines are made in this way, but I must think that their success is the result rather of chance than of anything else. I have experimented a great deal in this direction. I have fired mines so prepared in a place where I have been able to pick up the remains of the serpents after the explosion of the mines, and I have frequently found serpents that had never taken fire at all. And this fact set me to work upon discovering some new plan. I at once hit upon the cause of former failures, imagining them to be due to the too rapid ignition of the powder, which had not allowed time enough for the fire to be conveyed to the mouths of _all_ the serpents. In attempting to rectify this, I naturally enough ran to the other extreme, and gave them rather too long a time, so that they actually found their way out of the mortar by their own force, and the powder expended itself in a mighty puff just when they were out of the reach of its influence. Of course the serpents only found their way just out of the mortar, and did not produce that lively effect in the air which was intended. So then I had recourse to the plan which I now adopt, and which has never failed me. I take some circles of thin blue paper—such paper as the pyrotechnists use for making into touch-paper, which is called _thin blue double crown_; these circles I cut of such a size that they will just pass into my mortar, and I smear them well over with meal-powder-paste made with meal-powder moistened with thin starch or gum-water. One of these circles I place between the packet of powder and the mouths of the serpents. And I find that this arrangement just allows time enough for the fire to be conveyed to all the serpents before the packet of powder is exploded.

You will now have the three principal parts of the mine ready to put into the pasteboard mortar. In order to do this, take your bundle of serpents and hold them _mouths upwards_, as represented at fig. 107, and on their mouths lay the primed circle of thin paper, _meal-powder side downwards_. On this lay the packet of gunpowder, with its _smooth side downwards_, and its tied side upwards. Then taking the mortar, _bottom upwards_, pass it over the whole in the way in which an extinguisher is used. The mine, thus far completed, is now to be turned the proper way upwards, and a knife or pair of scissors passed into it to divide the cotton which bound the serpents together. Care must be taken that this little piece of after-work is not forgotten and left undone, otherwise your serpents will come out in a lump, and will not be able to spread.

But now we come to the case which is to play before the mine is fired. This may be a short case of the one-ounce or two-ounce size, and may be filled with the beautiful old composition called spur-fire. The composition for this is—

Nitre 18 parts.
Sulphur 8 „
Lampblack 6 „

But there is a great deal of art in preparing this composition. The ingredients require to be well-sifted together, and then rubbed together in a large mortar with a wooden pestle. You must have two or three short choked cases ready while this pestle and mortar operation is going on, in which to try the composition at different stages of its progress. If the ingredients have not been sufficiently rubbed with the pestle, very few of the beautiful spur-shaped sparks will be thrown out. But if, on the other hand, too much rubbing has taken place, the composition will burn too fiercely, and will throw out only drossy sparks. There is certainly a good deal of patience necessary in the preparation of this spur-fire composition, but when properly made it will repay you for all the trouble it has given. It is better to make a good large batch of it at a time. It is said to improve after being rammed into cases a long time.

There is only one disadvantage that I have ever found in this spur-fire, and that is, that much of its beautiful effect is lost unless the spectators are very close to it when it is fired. The scintillating sparks may be caught in the hand without danger.

But there are many other compositions which will answer very well for the beginning case for a mine. For instance, you may use—

Meal-powder 2 parts.
Steel filings 1 part.

Or,

Meal-powder 2 parts.
Iron borings 1 part.

Or,

Meal-powder 4 parts.
Charcoal 1 part.

These compositions may be rammed into either one-ounce or two-ounce cases, and primed in the ordinary way. The tail end of the case must be left open, in order to insert the end of the match which comes out of the bundle of serpents.

You will next require a circular piece of millboard, of a size that will answer as a lid to your pasteboard mortar. Through the centre of this lid bore a hole with a centre-bit just the size of the case that you mean to insert; and when you have decided how far this case shall project out of the lid, make a mark, and glue the case into the central hole: and when you have made the necessary connection between the tail of the fountain-case and the quick-match from the bundle, the lid is ready to be pasted on. If, however, there is any chance of the mine being knocked about before it is fired, fill in the space above the serpents with waste paper, or, still better, with common wadding, _which does not burn_.

It only remains now to paste a strip of thin paper neatly round the top of your mortar, so as to secure the lid, and then to put some touch-paper to your fountain-case, and the piece is ready for firing.

There is another way of making these mines which you can adopt if you please. Instead of using a short fountain-case, a long one is employed which will reach down to the smeared meal-powder pad. This case has, of course, to pass through the bundle of serpents, and so takes up a good deal of room among them. If you employ a long case of this kind, you will find it best to use one of the sparkling compositions given above, _and not the spur-fire_; or, at all events, if the spur-fire is used, only half fill the case with it. It is a slow-burning composition, and answers much better in _short_ cases of large calibre than in long cases of small bore.

For a mine two inches in diameter the charge of powder should be three-quarters of an ounce. The mortar should be about six inches high.

For a mine two and a-half inches in diameter, and seven inches high, the charge of powder should be one-ounce.

For a mine three inches in diameter, and eight inches high, the charge should be an ounce and a-half.

But I must now proceed to tell you of another way of making mines for exhibition purposes which can be fired at any given moment. These are fired from iron mortars. One of these mortars will last a lifetime. The size that I use is that which has a diameter of three inches. The mortar is made of thick sheet-iron, rivetted firmly into the form of a cylinder, with an iron ring round its mouth, and a wood block screwed into its other end for a foot. This mortar has a clear depth of eight inches inside, and is capable of throwing three dozen serpents. The exterior of the iron cylinder is bound round with cord, which is supposed to give it great additional strength. So much for the mortar from which these exhibition mines are fired. The serpents, powder, &c., are contained in paper bags, and have a projecting piece of match by which they are fired. I have a solid cylinder of wood, six inches long, and two and three-quarter inches in diameter, upon which I make my paper bags for these mines. A former of this size makes a bag that will contain the three dozen serpents, and will at the same time pass easily into the mortar. The powder, meal-pad, serpents and quick-match are to be put in precisely in the same manner as that directed above: the powder packet at the bottom, of course, then the meal-pad, then the serpents. After all are inclosed, feel with the fingers for the string that ties the serpents together, and cut through the paper of the bag and this string to liberate them. Your mine will then be ready for firing. Any number of these bags can be fired one after another from the same iron mortar.

You will find a sketch of a pasteboard mortar at fig. 108, showing its contents and the fountain-case. You will find also a sketch of an iron mortar, fig. 109, and bag and serpents, fig. 110; such as I use, which is by far the most convenient way of exhibiting serpent mines.

CRACKER MINES.

68. We will now proceed to speak of cracker mines, another very effective item in exhibition pyrotechny. With regard to the crackers that are employed for this purpose, I cannot think that you will economise at all by trying to make them yourselves. In order to make them all of one uniform size and shape—and these points must be attended to particularly in the manufacture of crackers for mines, otherwise you will be unable to pack them properly in the bags or mortars—a considerable amount of apparatus of rather an expensive kind is required, and is in fact indispensable. The money laid out in the purchase of this apparatus would furnish you with many grosses of mine crackers. If you will be advised by me, you will purchase them of Mr. Darby, whose crackers for this purpose are, in my opinion, exceedingly good. The only difference between mine crackers and those usually sold at the shops for the 5th of November is in their _priming_. Instead of having touch-paper, at which they are lighted, a piece of bare quick-match is left projecting from the mouth, which, of course, takes fire very readily.

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The mortars used for throwing crackers differ from those employed for throwing serpents in being square instead of round. I shall speak only of one size of cracker mortar, because you can at your pleasure fire from it any number of crackers from one dozen to four dozen by adopting my plan of packing them. If you are about to use a pasteboard mortar, you must have a square former made, two inches and three-quarters square and six inches long. Upon this former make a very strong mortar with well-pasted cardboard and thick paper, and let it be thoroughly dry before you use it. Glue into one end of it a piece of wood an inch thick for a bottom.