Chapter IV: Book 4: ) (1)

Returning by Russell Street, we soon reach _Bow Street_, and on the left may observe an open space contiguous to the _Foreign Fruit Market_. On this space there stood No. 4, in recent times occupied by Mr. Stinchcombe, costumier. Some years since this was the situation of Bow Street Police Court, now removed to the handsome new building facing Covent Garden Theatre. This, therefore, was the place at which the _Artful Dodger_, when committed for trial by the presiding magistrate, thus reserved his defence:—

“This ain’t the shop for justice; besides which my attorney is
a-breakfasting this morning with the Vice-President of the House of
Commons; but I shall have something to say elsevere, and so will he,
and so will a wery numerous and respectable circle of acquaintances,
as’ll make them beaks wish they’d never been born.”—See “Oliver
Twist,” chapter 43.

At a short distance onwards, we may note Covent Garden Theatre, selected by David Copperfield as his first place of entertainment in London, after dinner at the Golden Cross Hotel—

“Being then in a pleasant frame of mind . . . I resolved to go to the
play. It was Covent Garden Theatre that I chose; and there, from the
back of a centre box, I saw “Julius Cæsar” and the new pantomime. To
have all those noble Romans alive before me, and walking in and out
for my entertainment, instead of being the stern taskmasters they had
been at school, was a most novel and delightful effect.”

This theatre, as attended by David, was destroyed by fire March 4, 1856, six years after his autobiography was published, and afterwards rebuilt.

Exactly opposite the façade of the theatre is Broad Court, past the new magisterial building above referred to. This was the location given by _Mr. Snevellicci_ (at Portsmouth), on a convivial occasion, described in “Nicholas Nickleby” (chapter 30), as his London address:—

“I am not ashamed of myself; Snevellicci is my name. I’m to be found
in Broad Court, Bow Street, when I’m in town. If I’m not at home,
let any man ask for me at the stage-door.”

There is also historical reference to _Bow Street_ in “Barnaby Rudge,” as the place where “another boy was hanged,” after the suppression of the Gordon riots.

Exactly facing the north end of Bow Street, which gives into Long Acre, is a large building, now a stationer’s warehouse, recently used as the Clergy Co-operative Stores. Thirty-five years since this site was occupied by St. Martin’s Hall, in which Dickens gave his first series of paid readings in London (sixteen nights), under the management of Mr. Arthur Smith, 1858. The hall was a short time afterwards burnt down, and the Queen’s Theatre was here erected in its stead by Mr. Wigan; which theatre was since converted to the commercial uses of the Clergy as aforesaid.

Proceeding up _Long Acre_ to _Drury Lane_, we turn to the right, and in five minutes pass the back of Drury Lane Theatre. The second turning on the same side is RUSSELL COURT, a narrow passage leading to Catherine Street. The entire area between the two streets, for some distance, is cleared for building improvements, so that the indications immediately following refer to the past, and not practically to the present. These things have been, but are not.

In this court, about halfway on the right, was to be found (until 1897) the entrance to what was once the pauper Burial Ground where Captain Hawdon—known as _Nemo_ in the pages of “Bleak House”—was interred, and where Lady Dedlock was afterwards found dead at the gateway, she having fled from her husband, Sir Leicester, in despair, dreading the _exposé_ threatened by Mr. Tulkinghorn. It is also associated with _Poor Jo_, the crossing-sweeper.—See “Bleak House,” chapters 11 and 59.

“With houses looking on, on every side, save where a reeking little
tunnel of a court gives access to the iron gate—with every villainy
of life in action close on death, and every poisonous element of
death in action close on life—here, they lower our dear brother down
a foot or two: here, sow him in corruption, to be raised in
incorruption: an avenging ghost at many a sick bedside: a shameful
testimony to future ages, how civilisation and barbarism walked this
boastful island together.”

This intermural graveyard was attached to the Church of St. Mary-le-Strand, and has been closed for many years. The enclosure was converted into a recreation ground, and formally opened as such by Lady George Hamilton, May 19, 1886, on behalf of the Metropolitan Public Garden Association. But the entire locality is changed, the “avenging ghost” has ceased to walk, and the “shameful testimony” has ended.

At a short distance in Drury Lane, towards the Strand, we turn (left) by No. 106, into Clare Court, referred to in Forster’s Biography as follows—(C.D. _loq._):—

“Once, I remember tucking my own bread (which I had brought from home
in the morning) under my arm, wrapped up in a piece of paper like a
book, and going into the best dining-room in Johnson’s _a la mode_
beef-house in Clare Court, Drury Lane, and magnificently ordering a
small plate of _a la mode_ beef to eat with it. What the waiter
thought of such a strange little apparition, coming in all alone, I
don’t know, but I can see him now, staring at me as I ate my dinner,
and bringing up the other waiter to look. I gave him a halfpenny,
and I wish now that he hadn’t taken it.”

This episode of the author’s experience as a poor boy in London was reproduced in “David Copperfield,” chapter 11. The dining-house mentioned then existed (1824) at No. 13 in the court, in a prominent corner position. It has been unknown to fame for the last thirty years.

Returning by Drury Court to the Strand, and passing on the south side of the church above mentioned, we turn by No. 162A into _Strand Lane_, where may be visited, at No. 5, The Old Roman Bath referred to by David Copperfield, who says, “In which I have had many a cold plunge.” (See chapter 35.) The bath itself is lined with white marble, and dates from the sixteenth century. It is supplied from an old Roman reservoir adjoining, about 2000 years old.

[Picture: The Old Roman Bath]

Passing Surrey Street, just beyond, we come (next on the right) to _Norfolk Street_, in which there may be noted the former whereabouts of MRS. LIRRIPER’S LODGINGS; and we may here recall the pleasant associations connected with the Christmas numbers of _All the Year Round_, 1863 and 1864. The houses in this street are not enumerated beyond forty-five, all told. The figures 81, as given in the tale referred to, should be _reversed_; but sad to relate, No. 18—long standing as an old-fashioned boarding-house on the western side, below Howard Street—has disappeared, and certain modern buildings, offices, etc., recently erected, now occupy the old site. At a short distance farther on, in a central position in the Strand, stands the church of St. Clement Danes. It is of interest in this connection as the scene of Mrs. Lirriper’s wedding, some forty years previous to the narration of her business experience; and where she still retained “a sitting in a very pleasant pew, with genteel company, and her own hassock, being partial to evening service, not too crowded.”

Retracing our steps, three minutes, to the Church of St. Mary-le-Strand, again leaving the Strand by _Newcastle_ and _Houghton Streets_, and turning left and right (leaving Clare Market on the left), we shortly arrive at _Portsmouth Street_, _Lincoln’s Inn Fields_. At No. 14 will be found (for a short time only) a small old-fashioned house, on the front of which is painted an inscription, “The Old Curiosity Shop, _Immortalised by Charles Dickens_,” now occupied by Mr. H. Poole, dealer in wastepaper. This is said to be the house assigned by the novelist for the residence of Little Nell and her grandfather, with whose pathetic history we are all familiar—

“One of those receptacles for old and curious things, which seem to
crouch in odd corners of this town, and to hide their musty treasures
from the public eye in jealousy and distrust.”

It cannot, however, be regarded as absolutely certain that this particular house was the author’s intended “local habitation” for one of the best-known and loved of his creations. The tale itself concludes with a reference to _Kit’s_ uncertainty as to the whereabouts of the place:—

“The old house had long ago been pulled down, and a fine broad road
was in its place. At first he would draw with his stick a square
upon the ground to show them where it used to stand. But he soon
became uncertain of the spot, and could only say it was thereabouts,
he thought, and that these alterations were confusing.”

[A lady, personally acquainted with the great novelist, has informed the author that she was once taken by Mr. Dickens to No. 10 Green Street (approaching Leicester Square from the east)—at the corner of Green and Castle Streets, behind the National Gallery—the business of curiosity-dealing being then and there carried on. Mr. Dickens himself localised this house as the home of little Nell, pointing out an inner room—divided from the shop by a glass partition—as her bedroom. The premises are now rebuilt.]

[Picture: The Old Curiosity Shop]

At a short distance from this locality, and at an opposite angle of the street, there existed (until 1898) one of the old-fashioned taverns of the metropolis. The house was noteworthy, with its overhanging front resting on rough wooden pillars, and was named _Old George IVth_.

It is now replaced by a newly-built house of the same name, in modern style of plate glass, mahogany, and glitter.

It is highly probable that the old tavern represented the location and character of “The Magpie and Stump,” the rendezvous of _Mr. Lowten_ (Perker’s clerk) and other choice spirits in the days of Pickwick. It is described in the Pickwickian history as being near Clare Market, at the back of New Inn, and to this position the “Old George IVth” will correspond. Joe Miller, of jocular celebrity, was, aforetime, a frequenter of this establishment, when his quips “were wont to set the table in a roar.” His seat was still shown in the bar of the old house. Dickens and Thackeray were also well remembered as visitors to this ancient hostelry. There is now a “Magpie and Stump” in Fetter Lane, at some distance hence; but it is evident that Dickens transferred the name to a tavern in this neighbourhood. It will be remembered that here Mr. Pickwick enjoyed an hour’s entertainment, listening to the legends of “those curious old nooks,” the Inns of London, as related by Jack Bamber—see “Pickwick,” chapter 21—also containing a description of the advertisements of the tavern, as then displayed therein.

“In the lower windows, which were decorated with curtains of a
saffron hue, dangled two or three printed cards, bearing reference to
Devonshire cyder and Dantzic spruce, while a large black board,
announcing in white letters to an enlightened public, that there were
500,000 barrels of double stout in the cellars of the establishment,
left the mind in a state of not unpleasing doubt and uncertainty as
to the precise direction in the bowels of the earth, in which this
mighty cavern might be supposed to extend.”

_Dick Swiveller_ would doubtless occasionally patronise this establishment. He lodged hereabouts “in the neighbourhood of Drury Lane;” but it is difficult to indicate any particular house which Dickens may have selected for his accommodation.

Stretching eastward from this point is _Portugal Street_, famed in the same book as containing the Old Public House patronised by Mr. Tony Weller and his _confrères_ of the coach-driving persuasion. This house—opposite the Insolvent Debtors’ Court—existed until a few years since, by name, “The Horse and Groom.” It and many more besides, have now given place to a range of new offices and buildings in Elizabethan style, on the south side of the street (forming the north boundary of New Court), and the Insolvent Court has been recently appropriated to the uses of the Bankruptcy Court. It will be remembered that it was here _Mr. Samuel Weller_ got into difficulties, and was hence consigned to the Fleet Prison at the instance of his father; the professional services of the suave _Mr. Solomon Pell_ being retained on that occasion. Here also a select committee of friends assembled to assist at an oyster lunch and the proving of Mrs. Weller’s will, when Mr. Pell again conducted the business to the satisfaction of all concerned.—See “Pickwick,” chapters 43 and 55.

Returning through Portsmouth Street, we come into _Lincoln’s Inn Fields_; and, keeping on its western side—passing Sardinia Street, with its old archway, on the left—we may note Mr. John Forster’s House, No. 58. At this house resided the friend and biographer of Dickens, and here our author was, of course, a frequent visitor. On December the 2nd, 1844, Charles Dickens here first read his new Christmas book, “The Chimes,” to a select and critical audience, including Messrs. Forster, Maclise, Douglas Jerrold, Carlyle, Laman Blanchard, Fox, Stanfield, Harness, and Dyce. The house is itself described in the pages of “Bleak House” (chapter 10) as the

RESIDENCE OF MR. TULKINGHORN.

“In a large house, formerly a house of state, lives Mr. Tulkinghorn.
It is let off in sets of chambers now; and in those shrunken
fragments of its greatness, lawyers lie, like maggots in nuts. But
its roomy staircases, passages, and antechambers still remain; and
even its painted ceiling, where Allegory in Roman helmet and
celestial linen sprawls among balustrades and pillars, flowers,
clouds, and big-legged boys, and makes the head ache, as would seem
to be Allegory’s object always, more or less.”

As in the time spoken of, the house is still in legal possession, being let out as solicitors’ offices; but the old Allegory has disappeared beneath modern whitewash. Within two minutes’ distance northward, the weary rambler may reach the central thoroughfare of HOLBORN, where (turning to the left), close at hand, will be found the _Holborn Restaurant_, at which Sam Weller’s advice on the subject of a “little dinner” (or luncheon) may be worth practical consideration:—

“Pair of fowls and a weal cutlet; French beans, ’taturs, tart, and
tidiness.”

Certain it is that everything at this establishment will be found “werry clean and comfortable,” on reasonable terms.

RAMBLE II _Lincoln’s Inn to the Mansion House_

Lincoln’s Inn Hall; “Jarndyce and Jarndyce”—Old Square; Offices of Kenge and Carboy; Chambers of Sergeant Snubbin—Bishop’s Court; Miss Flite’s Lodging at Krook’s Rag and Bottle Warehouse; Nemo; Tony Weevle—The Old Ship Tavern; “The Sol’s Arms”—Coavinses’ Castle—Mr. Snagsby’s Residence, Took’s Court, Cursitor Street—Bell Yard; Lodgings of Neckett and Gridley—Tellson’s Bank, Fleet Street—The Temple; Fountain Court (Ruth Pinch and John Westlock); Garden Court (Pip’s Chambers); Pump Court (Chambers of the elder Martin Chuzzlewit); Paper Buildings (Sir John Chester and Mr. Stryver, K.C.)—Offices of Messrs. Lightwood and Wrayburn—Bradley Headstone’s Look-out—Clifford’s Inn; John Rokesmith and Mr. Boffin—St. Dunstan’s Pump and Maypole Hugh—St. Dunstan’s Church; “The Chimes”—Bradbury and Evans, Bouverie Street—Office of the _Daily News_—Hanging Sword Alley; Mr. Cruncher’s Rooms,–“Ye old Cheshire Cheese”—Farringdon, formerly Fleet, Market—Fleet Prison; Mr. Pickwick and Sam Weller’s Imprisonment—Belle Sauvage Yard—London Coffee House; Arthur Clennam’s arrival—St. Paul’s Churchyard—Dean’s Court—Doctors’ Commons; Messrs. Spenlow and Jorkins—“Bell Tavern”—Wood Street; Coach Office at which Pip first arrived—The London Stereoscopic Company; “Grip,” the Raven—Bow Church—The Guildhall; Bardell _v._ Pickwick—Grocers’ Hall Court—The Mansion House; References in “Barnaby Rudge,” “Christmas Carol,” and “Martin Chuzzlewit”—“Dombey and Son.”

The Rambler now crosses Lincoln’s Inn Fields, and, on its eastern side, enters the precincts of _Lincoln’s Inn_, through an arched gateway, from Serle Street. Passing the imposing building of the Dining-Hall and Library on the left, with New Square on the right, we shortly arrive at old Lincoln’s Inn Hall, THE LORD HIGH CHANCELLOR’S COURT, with its central turret and lantern, bearing the initials of the reigning Treasurer, 1818, where Chancery suits were tried thirty years since. Here that _cause célèbre_, JARNDYCE and JARNDYCE, dragged “its slow length along” through the weary years, involving

“Bills, cross-bills, answers, rejoinders, injunctions, affidavits,
issues, references to masters, masters’ reports—mountains of costly
nonsense.”

Here, on a seat at the side of the hall, stood little _Miss Flite_, in her squeezed bonnet, carrying “her documents,” and

“Always expecting some incomprehensible judgment in her favour.”—See
“Bleak House,” chapter 1.

The business of Chancery procedure is now transferred to the New Law Courts. Hard by, on the north, passing through the cloisters of the Chapel of Lincoln’s Inn, we come into the enclosure of Old Square, LINCOLN’S INN, where the _Offices of Messrs. Kenge and Carboy_ were situated. Esther Summerson says:—

“We passed into sudden quietude, under an old gateway, and drove on
through a silent square, until we came to an odd nook in a corner,
where there was an entrance up a steep broad flight of stairs, like
an entrance to a church.”

The houses in this square have been all rebuilt; but Kenge and Co.’s offices used to flourish in the north-west corner, where still the rising of the ground necessitates an exterior flight of steps. The chambers of _Sergeant Snubbin_, counsel for the defence in “Bardell _v._ Pickwick,” were also located in this square, probably on the opposite side.

Returning to Lincoln’s Inn, we may follow Esther Summerson’s directions, and visit the apartments of _Miss Flite_—

“Slipping us out of a little side gate, the old lady stopped most
unexpectedly in a narrow back street, part of some courts and lanes
immediately outside the wall of the inn, and said, ‘This is my
lodging. Pray walk up!’”

Thus, passing at the back of the Inn, and taking the next turning on the left, we arrive at Bishop’s Court, near at hand, a narrow, dark, and old passage leading to Chancery Lane. On the left hand, nearest the Inn, was _Krook’s Rag and Bottle Warehouse_, probably No. 3. But during recent years, all the old houses of the court have been substituted by modern buildings, offices, and shops; so that the location only remains of the “Lord Chancellor,” and his place of business, yclept by the neighbours the “Court of Chancery.” The old shop, at one time, possessed the private door and stairway leading to _Miss Flite’s lodging_.

“She lived at the top of the house, in a pretty large room, from
which she had a glimpse of the roof of Lincoln’s Inn Hall.”

Here, too, Captain Hawdon, otherwise _Nemo_, the law-writer, lived and died in a bare room on the second floor. A notice may have been observed in the old shop window, “Engrossing and Copying.” It will be remembered that this room was afterwards occupied by _Mr. Tony Weevle_, during whose tenancy it was decorated with a choice collection of magnificent portraits, being—

“Copper-plate impressions from that truly national work, the
Divinities of Albion, or Galaxy Gallery of British Beauty;
representing ladies of title and fashion, in every variety of smirk,
that art, combined with capital, is capable of producing.”

Returning to the top of the court, and passing a short distance along Star Yard, we reach, at the corner of _Chichester Rents_, a modern warehouse (No. 7), recently erected on the site of “The Old Ship Tavern,” now _non est_, named in the pages of “Bleak House” _The Sol’s Arms_, it being the house at which _the Inquest was held_, following the death of _Nemo_, as described in chapter 11; on which occasion the proffered evidence of Poor Jo was virtuously rejected by the presiding coroner.

“Can’t exactly say; won’t do, you know. We can’t take that in a
Court of Justice, gentlemen. It’s terrible depravity. Put the boy
aside.”

The old tavern has given place to the exigencies of modern commerce (1897). The ghost of _Little Swills_ may still linger in the neighbourhood, but the musical evenings of the past are silent, being now superseded by the prosaics of ordinary business.

The real SOL’S ARMS still exists, _No._ 65 _Hampstead Road_, _N.W._, at the corner of Charles Street, once known as Sol’s Row. Its name was derived from the “Sol’s Society,” whose meetings, held therein, were of a Masonic character. It has been suggested that Dickens transferred the style and name of this house to the neighbourhood of Chancery Lane, as above.

Coming now into Chancery Lane, we may observe, nearly opposite the old gateway of Lincoln’s Inn, Cursitor Street, a thoroughfare leading eastward from the Lane. It will be noticed that the houses in this street are comparatively of recent erection, and we may now look in vain for COAVINSES’ CASTLE, which has been swept away by the besom of modern destruction and improvement. This old sponging-house flourished (in the days of Harold Skimpole) on the left of the street, on the site now occupied by _Lincoln’s Inn Chambers_, No. 1.

At a short distance in Cursitor Street (No. 9) we come to a turning on the left to _Took’s Court_, referred to in “Bleak House” as _Cook’s Court_, in which was Mr. Snagsby’s Residence AND LAW STATIONER’S SHOP. The court is not a long one, and consists mainly of offices connected with the legal profession. The location of Mr. Snagsby’s shop was at the central corner on the left, the site being now occupied by modern offices and stores. “The little drawing-room upstairs” is described as commanding

“A view of Cook’s Court at one end (not to mention a squint into
Cursitor Street) and of Coavins’s, the Sheriff’s Officer’s, backyard
on the other.”

The memorable, but now non-existent room, as prepared for the reception of the _Rev. Mr. Chadband_ (Chaplain-in-Ordinary to Mrs. Snagsby), who was “endowed with the gift of holding forth for four hours at a stretch.” On that occasion, it will be remembered that Poor Jo—brought to Cook’s Court by a police constable—was eloquently addressed by the reverend gentleman, but was not greatly edified by his admonitions.

“At this threatening stage of the discourse, Jo, who seems to have
been gradually going out of his mind, smears his right arm over his
face, and gives a terrible yawn. Mrs. Snagsby indignantly expresses
her belief that he is a limb of the arch-fiend.”

Returning by Chancery Lane, on the left hand, we may note _Bream’s Buildings_, as being the northern boundary of the former site of Symond’s Inn, which hence extended onward to No. 22.

“A little, pale, wall-eyed, woebegone inn, like a large dust-bin of
two compartments and a sifter. It looks as if Symond were a sparing
man in his day, and constructed his inn of old building materials,
which took kindly to the dry rot, and to dirt, and all things
decaying and dismal, and perpetuated Symond’s memory with congenial
shabbiness.”

This inn has ceased to exist for many years past, its position being now occupied by a large printer’s establishment and other offices. Readers of “Bleak House” will remember that the professional chambers of _Mr. Vholes_ were here situated, and that _Richard Carstone_ and his young wife _Ada_ resided in the next house, in order that Richard might have his legal adviser close at hand. Here occurred the early death of poor Richard; and we all cherish the remembrance of dear Ada’s wifely devotion, to which _Esther Summerson_ thus refers:—

“The days when I frequented that miserable corner which my dear girl
brightened can never fade in my remembrance. I never see it, and I
never wish to see it now; I have been there only once since; but in
my memory there is a mournful glory shining on the place, which will
shine for ever.”

Leaving Chancery Lane, and turning (right) by Carey Street, we reach Bell Yard, leading to Fleet Street. This place has been mentioned by Dickens as containing a “chandler’s shop, left-hand side,” where lodged _Gridley_, “the man from Shropshire,” and _Neckett_, the faithful servitor of Coavinses. The name—Bell Yard—forms the heading of chapter 15, “Bleak House,” which affords information of the Neckett family—_Charlie_, _Tom_, and the limp-bonneted _baby_. For full details, reference should be made to this very touching and beautifully-written chapter as above. Great alterations have been made, and are still being made, in this narrow lane, since the erection of the New Law Courts in the immediate vicinity; but some of the older houses still remain on the left-hand side of the way. Of these, No. 9 is a small, tall, squeezed-looking house, about half-way down the alley, and may be safely assigned (thirty years since) to the tenancy of the good-natured Mrs. Blinder.

Passing through Bell Yard, we reach _Fleet Street_, at the point where once TEMPLE BAR gave ancient entrance to the City. Its position is marked by a bronze griffin, surmounting a memorial pedestal beneath. Exactly on the opposite side of the street is the handsome modern erection of _Child’s Bank_. This new building dates from 1878, when the structure of old _Temple Bar_ was removed. It replaces one of the very old-fashioned houses of London, in which for many years Messrs. Child carried on their important banking business. This house is spoken of by Dickens, in his “Tale of Two Cities,” as Tellson’s Bank, on the outside of which the mysterious _Mr. Cruncher_ was usually in attendance as “odd-job man, and occasional porter and messenger.”

“Tellson’s Bank, by Temple Bar, was an old-fashioned place even in
the year 1780. It was very small, very dark, very ugly, very
incommodious. Any one of the partners would have disinherited his
son on the question of rebuilding Tellson’s. Thus it had come to
pass that Tellson’s was the triumphant perfection of inconvenience.
After bursting open a door of idiotic obstinacy with a weak rattle in
its throat, you fell into Tellson’s, down two steps, and came to your
senses in a miserable little shop, with two little counters; where
the oldest of men made your cheque shake as if the wind rustled it,
while they examined the signature by the dingiest of windows, which
were always under a shower-bath of mud from Fleet Street, and which
were made the dingier by their own iron bars proper and the shadow of
Temple Bar.”

[Picture: Fountain Court, Temple]

Passing Newton’s (optician) we arrive at the outer Gate of the Temple, by which we enter _Middle Temple Lane_, following which a short distance and turning to the right, by _Middle Temple Hall_, we reach Fountain Court. The fountain standing here, conspicuously in a central position, is associated with the history of _Ruth Pinch_. Here it was that Tom and his sister made appointments for meeting—

“Because, of course, when she had to wait a minute or two, it would
have been very awkward for her to have had to wait in any but a quiet
spot; and that was as quiet a spot, everything considered, as they
could choose.”

On further reference to the pages of “Martin Chuzzlewit,” we may recall the auspicious occasion when Ruth was under the special escort of _John Westlock_—

“Brilliantly the Temple fountain sparkled in the sun, and merrily the
idle drops of water danced and danced; and, peeping out in sport
among the trees, plunged lightly down to hide themselves, as little
Ruth and her companion came towards it.”

See chapter 53. In Garden Court beyond, _Mr. Pip_ and his friend, _Herbert Pocket_, had residence. In “Great Expectations,” he says—

“Our Chambers were in Garden Court, down by the river. We lived at
the top of the last house.”

Here Pip’s patron and benefactor, the convict _Magwitch_, _alias Provis_, disclosed himself one memorable night, much to his “dear boy’s” discomfiture; and it will be remembered that temporary accommodation was found for him at

“A lodging-house in Essex Street, the back of which looked into the
Temple, and was almost within hail of ‘Pip’s’ windows.”

The houses in this court have been rebuilt, and we may look in vain for the actual chambers specified. Returning to _Middle Temple Lane_, the visitor may walk directly across it to _Elm Court_, and proceed through the same and a narrow passage beyond, turning to the left, through _The Cloisters_, which (left again) give into the central location of Pump Court, an oblong old-fashioned court of offices, four storeys high. Here, in all probability, were situated THE CHAMBERS where _Tom Pinch_ was mysteriously installed as librarian to an unknown employer, by the eccentric _Mr. Fips_.

“He led the way through sundry lanes and courts, into one more quiet
and gloomy than the rest; and, singling out a certain house, ascended
a common staircase . . . stopping before a door upon an upper storey.
. . . There were two rooms on that floor; and in the first, or outer
one, a narrow staircase leading to two more above.”

Here, also, old _Martin Chuzzlewit_ revealed himself to the astonished Tom in his true character, and surprised the virtuous _Mr. Pecksniff_ by a “warm reception,” when “the tables were turned completely upside down.”—See “Chuzzlewit,” chapters 39 and 52.

Proceeding past _Lamb Buildings_, on the east side of the Cloisters, and by a passage six steps downwards, leading beneath the _Inner Temple Dining-Hall_, we may note across the road (right) a short range of substantial houses, known as Paper Buildings, facing _King’s Bench Walk_, where it will be remembered that _Sir John Chester_ had his residential chambers, no doubt selecting a central position—say, at No. 3. Here at various times Mr. Edward Chester, Hugh, Sim Tappertit, and Gabriel Varden had audience with Sir John; for full particulars of which “overhaul the wollume”—“Barnaby Rudge.”

In this neighbourhood also were situated the chambers of _Mr. Stryver_, _K.C._, where _Sydney Carton_ served as “jackal” to that “fellow of delicacy;” as we read in “The Tale of Two Cities,” how Sydney

“Having revived himself by twice pacing the pavements of King’s Bench
Walk and Paper Buildings, turned into the Stryver Chambers.”

Returning to Fleet Street by Lamb Buildings, and passing in front of the Old Temple Church, we come to Goldsmith’s Buildings (right), which overlook the old burial-ground and the tomb of the doctor. This surely is the “dismal churchyard” referred to in “Our Mutual Friend” as being closely contiguous to the offices of Messrs. Lightwood and Wrayburn.

“Whosoever . . . had looked up at the dismal windows commanding that
churchyard, until at the most dismal window of them all, he saw a
dismal boy, would in him have beheld . . . the clerk of Mr. Mortimer
Lightwood.”

_N.B._—Note the last window on the left (second floor), nearest the west wing, lately rebuilt.

Coming again into Fleet Street, by the arched gateway of Inner Temple Lane, the wayfarer may recall the circumstance of Bradley Headstone’s nightly watchings opposite this point for the outgoings of _Mr. Eugene Wrayburn_, and the many fruitless journeys which were hence commenced, as Eugene enjoyed “the pleasures of the chase” at the expense of his unfortunate rival.

Nearly facing us, on the north side of Fleet Street, is Clifford’s Inn Passage, into whose retirement _Mr. Rokesmith_, the hero of “Our Mutual Friend,” withdrew from the noise of Fleet Street, with _Mr. Boffin_, when offering that gentleman his services as secretary.

Close at hand stands St. Dunstan’s Church, near to which the pump was, but is not, from whose refreshing streams “_Hugh_” (from the Maypole, Chigwell) sobered himself by a drenching on one occasion previous to visiting Sir John Chester at Paper Buildings. (_Vide_ “Barnaby Rudge,” chapter 40.) The old pump has been replaced by a drinking-fountain.

_Toby Veck_ surely must have known that pump; for though there is no precise location given by Dickens in “The Chimes” for the church near to which Toby waited for jobs, there is an etching by Stanfield in the original edition of that book (page 88), which is unmistakably the counterfeit presentment of St. Dunstan’s Tower.

Continuing the route, we pass _Bouverie Street_ (Bradbury and Evans—now Bradbury, Agnew, and Co.—in this street were the publishers of several of the works of Dickens, “The Chimes” included) on the right, next arriving at _Whitefriars’ Street_ on the same side.

At the corner of the street, No. 67, is the public Office of “The Daily News.” This influential newspaper was started January 21, 1846, under the supervision of Charles Dickens, and in the earlier numbers of the journal were published instalments of his “Pictures from Italy.” Dickens shortly relinquished the editorship, being succeeded by his friends Jerrold and Forster. The fact is, Charles never greatly cared for the study of general or party politics; but he always identified himself with “the People—spelt with a large P, who are governed,” rather than “the people—spelt with a small p, who govern.”

A short distance down Whitefriars’ Street is a passage (left) from which, at a right angle riverwards, we may look into Hanging Sword Alley, where Mr. Jeremiah Cruncher, messenger at Tellson’s, had his two apartments. These “were very decently kept” by his wife, whose “flopping” proclivities gave so much umbrage to Jerry.

On the opposite side of Fleet Street—No. 146—just beyond, we turn (left) into _Wine Office Court_, and, on the right, we arrive at “Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese.” In “The Tale of Two Cities,” Book 2, chapter 4, we read that _Charles Darnay_, being acquitted of the charge of high treason, on his trial at the Old Bailey, was persuaded by the young lawyer, _Sydney Carton_, to dine in his company thereafter:—

“Drawing his arm through his own, he took him down Ludgate Hill to
Fleet Street, and so up a covered way into a tavern.”

This, of course, was the tavern intended; it having been a noted resort with literary and legal men for more than a century past. Here Doctor Johnson and Oliver Goldsmith frequently dined together in days gone by, gravely discoursing over their punch afterwards; and, in more recent years, Thackeray, Dickens, Jerrold, Sala, and others have been reckoned among the customary guests of the establishment. Mr. George Augustus Sala, in a pleasant description of the place, writes as follows:—

“Let it be noted in candour that Law finds its way to the ‘Cheese’ as
well as Literature; but the Law is, as a rule, of the non-combatant,
and, consequently, harmless order. Literary men who have been called
to the Bar, but do not practise; briefless young barristers, who do
not object to mingling with newspaper men; with a sprinkling of
retired solicitors (amazing dogs these for old port wine; the
landlord has some of the same bin which served as Hippocrene to Judge
Blackstone when he wrote his ‘Commentaries’)—these make up the legal
element of the ‘Cheese.’”

The journey being resumed through Fleet Street, the visitor attains _Ludgate Circus_, from which _Farringdon Street_ leads northward on the left. A short detour along this thoroughfare, facing the handsome bridge of the Holborn Viaduct, will afford a sight of _Farringdon Market_ on the left side. Its position will recall the description given in “Barnaby Rudge,” in whose days it was known as Fleet Market,

“At that time a long irregular row of wooden sheds and penthouses
occupying the centre of what is now called Farringdon Street. . . .
It was indispensable to most public conveniences in those days that
they should be public nuisances likewise, and Fleet Market maintained
the principle to admiration.”

Here the rioters assembled—as narrated in the book before mentioned—and passed a merry night in the midst of congenial surroundings. Retracing our steps, we may note, on the east side of Farringdon Street, the site of the old Fleet Prison, on a part of which now stands the CONGREGATIONAL MEMORIAL HALL. The prison—fifty years since—stretched eastward in the rear as far as the present premises of Messrs. Cassell and Co., Belle Sauvage Yard. Its last remaining walls were removed in 1872, when the foundation-stone of the “Memorial Hall” aforesaid was laid. Here was imprisoned our amiable friend _Mr. Pickwick_, attended by his faithful Sam, until the time when the costs of Messrs. Dodson and Fogg in _re_ Bardell _versus_ Pickwick were by him fully paid and satisfied.

Proceeding up _Ludgate Hill_, we may soon note the Belle Sauvage Yard (turning by No. 68, on the left). The old inn, with its central metropolitan coach-yard, sixty years since occupied this site, where now the extensive printing and publishing offices of Cassell and Co. hold benignant sway. The place is referred to in an anecdote of _Sam Weller’s_ anent the preparation of his father’s marriage licence, as arranged at Doctors’ Commons, the place being evidently regarded by that respected coachman as his parochial headquarters in London—

“‘What is your name, sir?’ says the lawyer. ‘Tony Weller,’ says my
father. ‘Parish?’ says the lawyer. ‘Belle Savage,’ says my father;
for he stopped there when he drove up, and he know’d nothing about
parishes, _he_ didn’t.”

The plan of the inn-yard is considerably changed from its olden style. In Mr. Weller’s time it comprised two courts, the outer one being approached from Ludgate Hill by the present entrance, and the Belle Sauvage Inn forming a second quadrangle, with an archway about half-way up from the main entrance. In this interior court was the coach-yard, surrounded by covered wooden galleries, in accordance with the fashion of the times.

Passing onwards on the same side, past _Old Bailey_, we arrive at the site of the London Coffee Tavern, No. 46 Ludgate Hill, now occupied by the corner shop of Messrs. Hope Brothers, the well-known outfitters. The old house was pulled down in 1872. Here _Mr. Arthur Clennam_ rested awhile on his arrival “from Marseilles by way of Dover, and by Dover coach, ‘the Blue-Eyed Maid,’” one dismal Sunday evening, as narrated in chapter 3 of “Little Dorrit.” We now soon come to St. Paul’s Churchyard, facing the dial by which _Ralph Nickleby_ corrected his watch on his way to the London Tavern, no doubt “stepping aside” into No. 1—Dakin’s—“doorway” to do it; and we may probably be disposed to endorse _John Browdie’s_ verdict with reference to St. Paul’s Cathedral itself. “See there, lass, there be Paul’s Church. Ecod, he be a soizable one, he be.” This locality is also mentioned in “Barnaby Rudge” as being in the line of road taken by _Lord George Gordon_ when entering London with his friends _en route_ for his residence in Welbeck Street. On the right, within a short distance, we come to Dean’s Court, formerly DOCTORS’ COMMONS. This place is referred to by _Sam Weller_ as being in

“St. Paul’s Churchyard—low archway on the carriage side, bookseller’s
at one corner, hot-el on the other, and two porters in the middle, as
touts for licences.”

He further relates to Mr. Pickwick the circumstance of his father’s having been here persuaded to take a marriage licence, directing the lady’s name to be filled in on speculation.

We hear more of Doctors’ Commons in the chronicles of “David Copperfield.”

The Offices of Spenlow and Jorkins were situated in this locality; but the site is now occupied by the Post Office Savings’ Bank in _Knightrider Street_. Passing through the Archway and by the Deanery of St. Paul’s (right), we cross _Carter Lane_, and proceed by a narrow court, _Bell Yard_, to the street above mentioned. At the corner of Carter Lane and Bell Yard is the “_Bell Tavern_,” which it may be interesting to note, as a house where Mr. Dickens frequently rested, making his notes in preparation for David’s “choice of a profession.” For full particulars the Rambler is referred to chapter 23 of David’s autobiography.

It may also be remembered that the worthy _Mr. Boffin_ (see “Our Mutual Friend”), when instructing his attorney, seemed to be somewhat mixed in his ideas relative to this institution. In conversation with Mr. Lightwood, he once referred to the same as a legal personality—“_Doctor Scommons_!”

This locality has, of late years, altogether changed both its name and aspect. The old archway has disappeared. As previously stated, it is now known as Dean’s Court. In connection with its old associations, there exists _The Bishop of London’s Registry and Marriage Licence Office_, at the east corner of the court; and there are some Proctors’ offices doing business, as in the days of Copperfield, in the neighbourhood.

On the east side of the Cathedral, the visitor turns into Cheapside, soon arriving, on the left-hand side of the way (No. 122), at Wood Street. Associated with “Great Expectations,” as containing “Cross Keys Inn” (“_The Castle_,” No. 25), at which house Mr. Pip arrived when first visiting London, in accordance with instructions received per _Mr. Jaggers_.

Crossing Cheapside, and onwards by the south side, we reach the well-known establishment of the London Stereoscopic Company, No. 54. It may be interesting to know that this firm possesses the stuffed original of “_Grip_,” the Raven, the fortunate bird that received a double passport to fame, Dickens having narrated the particulars of its decease, and Maclise having sketched its apotheosis. This relic, so intimately associated with the tale of “Barnaby Rudge,” was purchased at the public sale of Mr. Dickens’s effects for £110, and its photographic portrait may be now obtained at this address.

A few steps farther on the same side stands the old Church of St. Mary-le-Bow, whose bells recalled Dick Whittington to fame and fortune. These same bells are mentioned in the history of “Dombey and Son,” chapter 4, as being within hearing at the offices of that important firm.

Passing on, and crossing to the north side of the thoroughfare, we arrive at King Street (turning by No. 92), at the top of which is The Guildhall. In the City Court attached thereto, that memorable case for breach of promise of marriage, “Bardell _v._ Pickwick,” was contested, on which occasion _Mr. Weller_, _senr._, emphatically insisted (from the body of the Court) on Sam’s spelling his name with a “we,” and afterwards much deplored the absence of certain technical defence on Mr. Pickwick’s behalf—“Oh, Sammy, Sammy, vy vorn’t there a alleybi?” Are not all these and other particulars written in the chronicles of the “Pickwick Papers”?—See chapter 34.

Resuming the promenade of Cheapside (still in the reverse direction of the progress of Lord George Gordon and his escort), we come into the Poultry, at the farther end, passing a turning on the left therefrom, known as GROCERS’ HALL COURT. It will be remembered that on one occasion when Mr. Pickwick desired a quiet glass of brandy and water, Sam Weller, whose “knowledge of London was extensive and peculiar,” led the way from the Mansion House, proceeding by the second court on the right, to the last house but one on the same side of the way, where he directed his master to

“Take the box as stands in the first fireplace, ’cos there a’n’t no
leg in the middle of the table.”

In pursuance of these explicit instructions, we shall find that this house is now in possession of Mr. Sheppard, gasfitter, but it is recollected that it was, aforetime, a restaurant of the old-fashioned sort. Mr. Weller, the elder, was here introduced to his son’s patron, and thereupon arranged for Mr. Pickwick’s journey to Ipswich. At the end of the Poultry we next approach, on the right, The Mansion House, mentioned in “Barnaby Rudge” as the residence of the Mayor of London. We read of this civic potentate in the pages of “The Christmas Carol,” when, one Christmas Eve,

“The Lord Mayor, in the stronghold of the mighty Mansion House, gave
orders to his fifty cooks and butlers to keep Christmas as a Lord
Mayor’s household should.”

_Mark Tapley_ also—in America—once made jocose reference to this location. When speaking of Queen Victoria, he informed certain members of the Watertoast Association to the following effect:—

“She has lodgings, in virtue of her office, with the Lord Mayor at
the Mansion House, but don’t often occupy them, in consequence of the
parlour chimney smoking.”

Messrs. Dombey and Son had their offices in the City, within the sound of Bow Bells, and not far from the Mansion House. Their position was probably in proximity to _The Royal Exchange_, but the address cannot be definitely indicated. Here Mr. Carker, the manager, reigned supreme, and schemed for his own aggrandisement, regardless of the prosperity of the house.

The name of the firm is still perpetuated in the City, and the thriving establishment of the well-known merchant tailors—DOMBEY & SON—will be found at No. 120 _Cheapside_, at which a large and well-conducted business is carried on.

From this point we may conveniently visit “His Lordship’s Larder” (at three minutes’ distance), Cheapside, where we may advantageously refresh, “rest, and be thankful.”

RAMBLE III _Charing Cross to Thavies Inn_, _Holborn Circus_

South-Eastern Terminus—Spa Road Station—Jacob’s Island; Sykes’s last Refuge—Butler’s Wharf, formerly Quilp’s Wharf—Quilp’s House, Tower Hill—Trinity House and Garden; Bella Wilfer’s Waiting-place—Southwark Bridge; Little Dorrit’s Promenade—The General Post Office—Falcon Hotel, Falcon Square; John Jasper’s patronage—Little Britain; Office of Mr. Jaggers—Smithfield—Newgate Prison; Pip’s description in “Great Expectations”—The Old Bailey Criminal Court, as per “Tale of Two Cities”—The Saracen’s Head; Associations with Nicholas Nickleby—Clerkenwell Green; Oliver Twist and his Companions—Scene of the Robbery—Line of Route taken by Oliver and “The Artful Dodger” from the Angel to Saffron Hill—Hatton Garden Police Court; Administration of Mr. Fang—Great Saffron Hill and Field Lane—Fagin’s House and the “Three Cripples”—Bleeding Hart Yard; Factory of Doyce and Clennam; the Plornish Family—Ely Place—Thavies Inn; Mrs. Jellyby’s Residence.

From the SOUTH-EASTERN TERMINUS at Charing Cross there are frequent trains by which the Rambler can travel to _Spa Road Station_, _Bermondsey_ (about twenty minutes’ ride), from which point the situation of what was once Jacob’s Island may be conveniently visited. This place was associated with the adventures of _Oliver Twist_, being the last refuge to which _Sykes_, the murderer of _Nancy_, betook himself on his return to London, and where he met a righteous retribution when attempting his escape. It is described by Dickens—nearly sixty years since—as being

“Near to that part of the Thames on which the church at Rotherhithe
abuts, where the buildings on the banks are dirtiest, and the vessels
on the river blackest, with the dust of colliers and the smoke of
close-built, low-roofed houses. In such a neighbourhood, beyond
Dockhead, in the borough of Southwark, stands Jacob’s Island,
surrounded by a muddy ditch, six or eight feet deep, and fifteen or
twenty wide when the tide is in, once called Mill Pond, but known in
the days of this story as Folly Ditch.”

Arriving at _Spa Road_, the explorer turns left and right by the short routes of _West Street South_, _Fream Street_, and _Rouel Road_, into _Jamaica Road_ (five minutes from station); passing from the opposite side of which, through _Parker’s Row_ to the thoroughfare of _Dockhead_, he will find himself face to face with a tavern on the north side, named “The Swan and Sugar Loaf.” A short cut on the right of this house leads immediately to LONDON STREET, its northern side forming the south boundary of the old site of Jacob’s Island. _Folly Ditch_, flowing from the Thames through Mill Street, took its course through London Street (it has been filled in since 1851); and in these streets wooden bridges crossed to the Island, and “crazy wooden galleries, common to the backs of half-a-dozen houses”—referred to by the novelist—used to “ornament the banks of Folly Ditch.” To the right we pass into _George Row_, enclosing Jacob’s Island (east), and may note _en passant_ the blocks of workmen’s dwellings, erected 1883, named “Wolseley’s Buildings,” which occupy the site of the old Island on its eastern side. From George Row we turn (right) into _Jacob Street_, north of the Island, by which we come into _Mill Street_ (west); again returning to _London Street_, and so completing the circumnavigation of this interesting locality. Some of the old wooden erections still exist in _Farthing Alley_, _Halfpenny Alley_, and _Edward Street_, which intersect the area. In his preface to the first cheap edition of “Oliver Twist,” the author makes a further reference, as follows:—

“In the year one thousand eight hundred and fifty, it was publicly
declared in London by an amazing alderman, that Jacob’s Island did
not exist, and never had existed. Jacob’s Island continues to exist
(like an ill-bred place as it is) in the year one thousand eight
hundred and sixty-seven, though improved and much changed.”

Starting westward from “The Swan and Sugar Loaf,” we now proceed through _Thornton Street_, and turn to the right, by one block in the street beyond, into _Queen Street_, which leads directly north to the riverside. At the end of this street is the locality of Quilp’s Wharf and place of business, aforetime described in the pages of “The Old Curiosity Shop”:—

“A small, rat-infested, dreary yard, in which were a little wooden
counting-house, burrowing all awry in the dust as if it had fallen
from the clouds, and ploughed into the ground; a few fragments of
rusty anchors, several large iron rings, some piles of rotten wood,
and two or three heaps of old sheet copper—crumpled, cracked, and
battered.”

The place has been altogether altered and improved during the last forty years, and is now known as “Butler’s Wharf,” but the original prototype of Quilp is still remembered by some of the older residents of the neighbourhood.

The westward route being continued by the side of the river, we walk through _Shad Thames_ and _Pickle Herring Street_ (underneath an archway) to _Vine Street_, where is the southern entrance of the _Tower Subway_, by which we may cross below the river to the other side. Emerging near the Tower, Quilp’s House, on Tower Hill, is near at hand. No. 6 Tower Dock, facing the public entrance to the Tower, is said to have comprised the lodging assigned by Dickens for the accommodation of Mr. and Mrs. Daniel Quilp and Mrs. Jiniwin. We may here recall the matrons’ tea-meeting, as described in chapter 4 of “The Old Curiosity Shop,” when Quilp’s conduct as a husband was freely discussed, and much good advice tendered to Mrs. Quilp for the true assertion of her rights and dignity. Also the notable occasion when, the master of the house being missing and thought to be drowned, _Mr. Sampson Brass_ was in consultation, and the party were unpleasantly surprised, as they were preparing a descriptive advertisement, by the sudden appearance of the Dwarf, as lively and sarcastic as ever.

“A question now arises with regard to his nose. ‘Flat,’ said Mrs.
Jiniwin. ‘Aquiline!’ cried Quilp, thrusting in his head, and
striking the feature with his fist. ‘Aquiline, you hag. Do you see
it? Do you call this flat? Do you? Eh?’”

Hard by this locality stands Trinity House, Tower Hill, with its garden in front, and it may be remembered that _Mr. Wilfer_ suggested this neighbourhood as a waiting-place for Bella, on the occasion of their “innocent elopement” to Greenwich, while he should array himself in new garments at her expense, to do honour to the expedition. We now turn westward by _Tower Street_, and may save time by taking train at _Mark Lane Station_ for the Mansion House, about ten minutes’ ride. On arrival at the Mansion House Station we shall find _Queen Street_ close at hand, leading riverwards to Southwark Bridge, referred to in “Little Dorrit” as the Iron Bridge. This was Amy Dorrit’s favourite promenade, it being quieter than many of the neighbouring thoroughfares; and we may recall the scene when young _John Chivery_ was obliged to take no for an answer, when he attempted the proffer of his hand and heart.

Proceeding onwards through _Cannon Street_, we turn to the right through _St. Paul’s Churchyard_, crossing Cheapside to the stately edifice of the General Post Office, _St. Martin’s-le-Grand_. This building, in the times of “Nicholas Nickleby,” occasioned honest John Browdie some surprise:—

“Wa-at dost thee tak’ yon place to be, noo, that ’un ower the wa’?
Ye’d never coom near it, gin ye thried for twolve moonths. It’s na
but a Poast-office. Ho, ho! they need to charge for double latthers.
A Poast-office! What dost thee think of that? Ecod, if that’s on’y
a Poast-office, loike to see where the Lord Mayor o’ Lunnon lives!”

_Aldersgate Street_ leads northward from St. Martin’s-le-Grand; passing the first block in which, _Falcon Street_ turns on the right (No. 16) towards _Falcon Square_, a small city piazza, where may be found (No. 8) The Falcon Hotel. This is the place at which John Jasper sojourned when visiting London. In “The Mystery of Edwin Drood” we read the following commendation of the house in question:—

“It is hotel, boarding-house, or lodging-house at its visitor’s
option. It announces itself, in the new Railway advertisers, as a
novel enterprise, timidly beginning to spring up. It bashfully,
almost apologetically, gives the traveller to understand that it does
not expect him, on the good old constitutional hotel plan, to order a
pint of sweet blacking for his drinking, and throw it away; but
insinuates that he may have his boots blacked instead of his stomach,
and may also have bed, breakfast, attendance, and a porter up all
night, for a certain fixed charge.”

Returning to Aldersgate Street, we shall find that the opposite turning, leading to Smithfield, is _Little Britain_. In “Great Expectations” we learn that the Offices of Mr. Jaggers, the Old Bailey lawyer, were here situated, in near proximity to Bartholomew Close; but the house cannot be precisely indicated. Here _Mr. Wemmick_ assisted his Principal in the details of his professional business. He may be remembered as having a decided preference for “portable property.”

Proceeding onward by _Duke Street_, the visitor will shortly come into Smithfield, a locality which is considerably changed since the days when Pip first arrived in London. He says—