Chapter I: Preface

Every year more and more is the constantly recurring question ever put "Where shall we go to this Summer?" and every year the field for selection gets narrower and narrower.

In writing the following pages, my object has been less to make a book than to point out to those who are tired of the old beaten tracks, countries within easy reach of London, but seldom visited, and quite outside the lines affected by the typical tourist:—countries where at moderate expense and with total freedom from danger they may enjoy new scenery, receive fresh impressions, acquire new information; and if by so doing I shall have suggested to others one more field for exploration that shall afford them half the enjoyment which I experienced during my wanderings, I shall consider myself very amply rewarded.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

A CONVERSATION—WHERE SHALL WE GO FOR A HOLIDAY TRIP—ATTRACTIONS
OF LAPLAND—REMINISCENCES OF ITALY—THE GRAND TOUR IN FORMER
DAYS—HOW TO STUDY HISTORY—DIFFICULTY OF FINDING NEW GROUND
FOR TRAVEL—AN INTERESTING COUNTRY WITHIN FIVE DAYS OF TEMPLE
BAR 1

CHAPTER II.

MAN PROPOSES, BUT GOD DISPOSES—VIENNA—ST. STEPHEN'S
CATHEDRAL—OLD CATHEDRALS—SANTA MARIA DEL FIORE—USES OF EAU DE
COLOGNE—INSECT ATTACKS—THE UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION—THE GARDENS
AND ACCESSORIES—THE LADIES OF VIENNA—NEW OPERA-HOUSE—ON THE
DANUBE—A WEALTHY PRELATE—WISSEGRAD—ARRIVAL AT PESTH 14

CHAPTER III.

PESTH—HOTEL UNGARIA—BUDA—STORY OF AN ARTIST—PROSPERITY OF THE
CITY—NEW BRIDGE OVER THE DANUBE—ST. MARGUERITE'S ISLAND—ANCIENT
ROMAN BATH—CONDITION OF HUNGARY—FIELD FOR THE JUNIOR BRANCHES
OF THE UPPER TEN THOUSAND—KEEPING UP APPEARANCES—THE TERMINATION
OF TURKISH MISRULE—FUTURE OF THE DANUBIAN PRINCIPALITIES 29

CHAPTER IV.

STEINBRÜCK—THE SÖMMERING—FIRST VIEW OF THE
ADRIATIC—TRIESTE—SHOCKS OF EARTHQUAKE AT BELLUNO—AUSTRIAN
IRONCLAD 'LISSA'—CAPTAIN R. BURTON—FLYING VISIT TO SAN
CANZIANO—SUBTERRANEAN COURSE OF A MOUNTAIN STREAM—THE KARST—WILD
SCENERY—A THUNDER-STORM—CHURCH OF SAN CANZIANO—STUD FARM 43

CHAPTER V.

THE "SAN CARLO" AND HER PASSENGERS—A DALMATIAN'S REMARKS
ON THE PRESERVATION OF HEALTH IN INDIA—DALMATIAN DIGGERS
FROM AUSTRALIA—COAST OF ISTRIA—PIRANO—CATHEDRAL OF
PARENZO—ROVIGNO—POLA—THE AMPHITHEATRE—PICTURESQUE SIGHT
—GIOVANNI ASTONISHED—MONTENEGRIN COSTUME—ZARA—EXTREME HEAT 61

CHAPTER VI.

DEPARTURE FROM ZARA—SEBENICO—PLEASANT COMPANIONS—NOBLE
HARBOUR—THE CATHEDRAL—CURIOUS ROOF—CORAL
FISHERY—SPALATO—SALONA—DIOCLETIAN'S PALACE—MR. PATON'S
DESCRIPTION OF IT—BEAUTIFUL SPECTACLE—THE PORTA FERREA—QUAINT
DWELLINGS—AMBROSIAL TOBACCO 79

CHAPTER VII.

A TYPE OF SHYLOCK—SCENE IN THE STREET—VARIED
COSTUMES—MORLACCHI—TURKS FROM THE HERZEGOVINA—WOMEN OF
SPALATO—INSPECTION OF THE CITY—THE PORTA AUREA—COURT OF THE
VESTIBULE OF THE PALACE—INTERIOR OF THE CATHEDRAL—ILLUSTRIOUS
MEN OF SPALATO—MARK ANTONY DE DOMINIS—ST. JEROME—THE MORLACCHI 94

CHAPTER VIII.

ISLAND OF LISSA—NAVAL BATTLES—A BRIDAL PARTY TAKEN ON
BOARD—LESINA—FORTRESS OF SAN NICOLO—THE LOGGIE—FORT
SPAGNUOLO—ISLAND OF CURZOLA—LA CHROMA—BEAUTIFUL SCENE—RICHARD
CŒUR DE LION—CATHEDRAL OF RAGUSA—EARTHQUAKE OF 1667—TERRIBLE
CONFLAGRATION—PRINCE MAXIMILIAN 107

CHAPTER IX.

THE PADRE ANSELMO—HIS LIFE AND LABOURS AMONG THE AMERICAN
INDIANS—THE PIONEERS OF CIVILIZATION—AMERICAN INDIANS AND
NEGROES—PADRE ANSELMO ON PROTESTANT AND CATHOLIC MISSIONS—NATIVE
CHRISTIANS IN INDIA—POPE PIUS IX. ONCE A MISSIONARY—CARDINAL
P—.—PORT OF GRAVOSA—RAGUSA 125

CHAPTER X.

ATTRACTIONS OF DALMATIA—INTERESTING EXCURSION—ISLAND OF
LACHROMA—CLIMATE—A. A. PATON, ESQ., FORMERLY CONSUL-GENERAL
AT RAGUSA—AN ITALIAN DINNER—EPIDAURUS—THE CANAL OF
CATTARO—TERRITORY OF RAGUSA—TOWER OF PERASTO AND FORT OF SANTA
CROCE—STRANGELY BUILT CHURCH—A PALAZZO—SAN GIORGIO AND LA
MADONNA—PICTURE ATTRIBUTED TO ST. LUKE 141

CHAPTER XI.

CITY OF CATTARO—SIGNOR JACKSCHICH—STREETS AND PIAZZAS—WALKS AND
FORTIFICATIONS—PUBLIC WALK—CAFÉ AND GARDENS—SONOROUS STONE—A
MONTENEGRIN CHIEF—A HAPPY BEGGAR BOY 150

CHAPTER XII.

MONTENEGRIN TRADERS—LE SCALE DI CATTARO—A GORGEOUSLY-ATTIRED
MONK—OUR CARAVAN—MONTENEGRINS OF THE PRINCE'S
BODY-GUARD—INTERESTING VIEW—ABSENCE OF TREES ON THE DALMATIAN
COAST—A HOME FOR GERMAN EMIGRANTS—TURKISH MISRULE IN EUROPE—A
FUTURE EMPIRE—A MAN FIT TO RULE 164

CHAPTER XIII.

THE PRINCE OF MONTENEGRO—UNJUST DEPRIVATION OF TERRITORY—ORIGIN
OF THE NAME OF THE COUNTRY—A FRIEND IN NEED—VILLAGE OF
NIEGOSCH—PANORAMA SEEN FROM THE TOP OF THE PASS—WILD-LOOKING
HERDS AND FLOCKS—MONTENEGRIN LEGEND—ARRIVAL AT CETTIGNE—THE
VLADIKA'S PALACE—THE TREE OF JUSTICE—TOWER OF CETTIGNE 177

CHAPTER XIV.

INSECT POWDER OF MONTENEGRO—DESCRIPTION OF THE
MONASTERY—ENCAMPMENTS—FESTIVAL OF ST. PETER—A SAINT BY THE
WILL OF THE PEOPLE—PICTURESQUE SCENE—BOSNIAN CAFÉ—THE NATIONAL
INSTRUMENT—A TRAVELLED DALMATIAN—TALL MONTENEGRINS 194

CHAPTER XV.

A POLYGLOT JUMBLE—WAR CUSTOMS OF THE MONTENEGRINS—DEATH
IN BATTLE—FORAYS FOR THE PLUNDER OF CATTLE—EQUIPAGE OF A
MONTENEGRIN SOLDIER—PILLAGE—MANNER OF FIGHTING—TACTICS—SIGNAL
CRIES—ON BOARD SHIP—DECAPITATION OF WOUNDED PRISONERS 208

CHAPTER XVI.

BATTLE BETWEEN TURKS AND MONTENEGRINS—ADDRESS OF PRINCE
MIRKO—HIS PERSONAL APPEARANCE AND CHARACTER—THE PROJECTS OF
PRINCE DANIELO—PRINCE NICHOLAS I.—SPORT IN MONTENEGRO—INTERVIEW
WITH THE PRINCE AND PRINCESS—NATIONAL COSTUME—SPLENDID
ILLUMINATION 218

CHAPTER XVII.

A WALK WITH THE PRINCE—SALUTATIONS OF THE CROWD—THE
GUZLA—MONTENEGRIN DANCE—THE PRINCE'S ACCOUNT OF ITS ORIGIN—THE
CAMP AT NIGHT—ADVENTURE WITH A MONTENEGRIN—DEVOTION OF THE
PEOPLE TO THEIR PRINCE 235

CHAPTER XVIII.

FALSE IMPRESSIONS OF MONTENEGRO—AGRICULTURE ON A
MINOR SCALE—FIELD-LABOURERS—MONTENEGRIN FACCHINI AT
CONSTANTINOPLE—FEMALE LABOUR—PRODUCTION OF SUMACH—COMMERCIAL
RELATIONS WITH OTHER COUNTRIES IMPEDED—IMPOSING PAGEANT 248

CHAPTER XIX.

FOOT RACES—MONASTERY OF OSTROG—OTTOMAN ADMINISTRATION—A
COURSE À LA MONTAGNE—RACING WITHOUT BETTING—BEN TROVATO—A FLAT
RACE—CONVERSATION ABOUT ENGLISH LAWS AND CUSTOMS—LAW OF HABEAS
CORPUS 258

CHAPTER XX.

DEPARTURE FROM CETTIGNE—RUGGED ROAD—DELIGHTFUL VIEW—USEFUL
OLD HELMET—NIEGOSH—EXCESSIVE HEAT—THE SCALA DI CATTARO—THE
BOCCHESI—THE RUSSIAN CONSUL—SUNSET AT CATTARO—UNEXPECTED
APPEARANCE OF PERO PEJOVICH 268

CHAPTER XXI.

BEAUTIFUL ROAD—ATTACK OF FEVER—ARRIVAL AT BUDUA—BARON HEYDEG
AND SIGNOR MARCO MEDIN—A RESTAURANT—OUR HOST—DOCTOR, DENTIST
AND APOTHECARY—WALK ROUND THE FORTIFICATIONS—EXPLORATION OF
BUDUA—THE PARTING GLASS 280

CHAPTER XXII.

TOWN OF ANTIVARI—FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF TURKEY—ORIENTAL
PASSENGERS—VALUE OF A KNOWLEDGE OF ARABIC OR TURKISH—A MAHOMETAN
MERCHANT AND HIS FAMILY—TURKISH TROOPS IN ALBANIA—TOWN AND
FORTRESS OF CASTEL DURAZZO—RETURN TO TRIESTE—FAREWELL TO THE
READER 291

RAMBLES IN ISTRIA, DALMATIA,

AND

MONTENEGRO.