Chapter XIV

A wretched journey of over eight hours by rail brought us to Alexandria shortly before midnight. A fierce gale with rain prevailed during most of the journey, and owing to the dilapidated condition of the carriage, waterproofs were necessary to protect us from the rain, which, in spite of closed windows, found access to every part of the compartment. The line itself and the whole of the rolling stock, were in a miserable condition of disrepair, and utterly unfit for traffic.

The drive from the railway station to the Hotel Abbat gave us our first glimpse of the ruin wrought by the rioters. The raging storm and drenching sleet were singularly in accord with the scene of desolation and misery on every hand. After the long and cold railway journey, and the drive in the open vehicle from the station, we were in hopes of finding comfortable quarters in the hotel, but the wretchedness prevailing outside seemed to have penetrated into every corner of the establishment. It was impossible to get anything hot to eat, and the cold meats were most uninviting. The proprietor, expecting another train in about an hour, deferred serving even this cold cheer until its arrival. Meanwhile nothing remained for us but to try to warm ourselves by pacing up and down the scantily-furnished _salle a manger_.

[Picture: A Familiar Face]

We were glad to get to bed notwithstanding that the carpets in the bedrooms were flapping in the wind in the most vigorous manner during the night.

On rising next morning we found the storm had not abated, indeed it continued with undiminished fury during the whole of our stay. Our time, however, being limited, it was necessary to disregard the weather in order to visit the scene of the recent operations and the ruins of the city. On leaving the hotel our dragoman of three years ago, Kalifa, at once recognised us, and under his guidance we made a tour of the fortresses, going first to Ras-el-Tin. We found the palace of that name, which forms the landward boundary of the fortress, still partially in ruins and apparently deserted. One could not help feeling that the architect, in selecting such a site for a royal residence, must have regarded the possibility of an attack upon the fort from the sea as being too remote to be taken into account. Some of the other forts had at one time stood isolated from the town, but apparently it might be said of the Alexandrians that

"Exceeding peace had made them bold,"

for the approaches to the forts had gradually been built upon until at length some of the houses were even erected against the fortifications. These were the houses which were destroyed during the bombardment, and the ruin of which gave rise to the impression that the city itself had been shelled. All the forts presented the same dismal aspect of ruin. Shattered ramparts, battered casemates, huge holes in the walls of the store-houses; the heavy Armstrong guns dismantled, some with the muzzle pointed high up in the air, others lying on the ground; in all cases the gun-carriages smashed and crushed into shapelessness; burst shells, and heaps of stones and mortar lying everywhere; great deep pits in the ground, showing where an "Inflexible" shell had burst. The buildings and ramparts are of loosely-built stonework, hence wherever a shell struck, it told with full and destructive effect. Here and there one could see that a single shell had penetrated a rampart, scattered the earth, upheaved a heavy Armstrong, and enveloped a casemate in a heap of demolished masonry. In Fort Aida an explosion, which wrecked the whole place, occurred early in the action. In the whole of the forts there were Armstrong guns of great calibre and of modern date. Their appearance after the bombardment was most extraordinary: pieces knocked out of the muzzles, huge slabs sheared out of their sides, and in many cases the coils pitted with shot marks. In most places, and at Fort Meks in particular, the muzzles were burst, but this was the work of the landing parties shortly after the action. There can be no question that the armament of these forts was of a very formidable character, and that the condition of the fleet after the encounter might have been a very serious one had the guns throughout been well handled.

After leaving the Forts we went with a friend, long resident in Alexandria, to Ramleh, the fashionable suburb of the city. The word Ramleh means "sand," and that being so it may be said that no place was ever more appropriately named. It is a mere sand waste by the shore, and its villas are separated by sand wastes. The effect is somewhat Australian, and the use of verandahs and Venetian shutters helps the suggestion. Our friend's house was close to what is known as Gun Hill, that is, where the 40-pounders were, and from his Egyptian roof he could see Arabi's advanced position and the whole of the British camp. At 4 p.m. every day it was the custom to go and see the practice from Gun Hill. Mr. A.'s house was open during the whole time, and he told us it was for the most part more like a picnic than a campaign. The officers, however, were frequently called from his billiard table by an alarm from the camp, and on such occasions Mr. A. had an understanding with them that should the English be driven in they were to warn him when retreating past his house by firing a volley through his windows! There were of course times of great anxiety notwithstanding the excitement and interest.

Mr. A. was in Alexandria during the massacre, and at the time of the bombardment he was only away two days, being the first to return to his house and live in it. While there, many of the neighbouring houses were looted. His description of the daily shooting of looters reminded one of the accounts of the latter days of the Paris Commune. Mr. A.'s garden is ornamented with heavy English shells, which, he tells his visitors, fell there--from a cart!

During the afternoon we had a stroll through the European quarter of the city, and were amazed at the destruction to be seen on every hand. The rows of fine houses, the shops, the buildings of the Grand Square, the Place Mohammed Ali, with its gardens, all a mass of unsightly ruins, from which workmen were getting out the stones and stacking them up in long rows on the footways. We had been pretty familiar with Alexandria, but in the maze of ruined stonework we were completely at a loss and could not find our way. Kalifa, however, came to our assistance, and guided by him we took a drive through the native quarter, and soon perceived that, though the destruction by incendiarism was unfortunately greatest in the European quarter, the _petroleurs_ had not spared their fellows, for many native houses were burned. The extent to which property was destroyed is incredible. There must be several miles of streets in the sheerest ruin. The poor shopkeepers of the Place Mohammed Ali now occupy temporary wooden shanties, and the general aspect of this once gay and opulent quarter is wretched in the extreme.

We next day paid a visit to Fort Meks, but except that its armament was somewhat heavier than that of its fellows, there were no new features to be seen. The same desolate appearance of ruin and destruction--crippled gun-carriages, burst guns, crumbling ramparts, and shell-ploughed ground. This fort, from the accuracy of its gun practice, was the most troublesome to the fleet. The five terrible "Armstrongs," however, lay burst and useless in the sand drifts, with the rude and forgotten graves of the poor gunners round about them.

A flood of misplaced eloquence has been expended in denouncing the conduct of the British Government for having "bombarded and utterly destroyed a defenceless commercial city," and the statement has been repeated so often as to be believed by many; but I will venture to say that no one will for one moment believe it who has had the opportunity, as I have, of being conducted over the city and the fortifications by an intelligent gentleman, an old resident, who was present during the whole of the operations, and who emphatically denies that the bombardment of the forts caused any greater damage than I have described. The charge has come mainly from the advocates of peace; but it is a misfortune that such a sacred cause should be damaged by gross exaggerations, and by statements which it is impossible to sustain. The cause of peace, like the temperance cause, has suffered greatly by this habit of exaggeration.

At the _table d'hote_ I sat by an English officer who had been in the thick of the fight at Kassassin, and who had escaped unhurt; he did not seem inclined to say much about his experiences on that terrible day, but he entertained a great respect for the fighting capacity of the Egyptian soldier when properly led.

During the whole of our stay in Alexandria the weather continued to be extremely boisterous and very cold, and we were glad to get on board the P. and 0. steamer for Brindisi. Some Anglo-Indians joined the vessel here, and we had an opportunity of observing the way in which some of our countrymen treat native races.

A crowd of Arabs in boats were alongside, offering their wares to the passengers as they stepped up the side of the ship. Amongst the rest there was a man with his little daughter offering raw eggs, beads, shells, etc. Two of the Anglo-Indians having bought a dozen of the eggs, and having stationed themselves in a convenient position on deck, proceeded to pelt the poor trader, completely spoiling his stock, and covering him and his child with the contents of the missiles. During the voyage these fellows also behaved in a brutal manner towards the native stewards on board. It is not to be wondered at that men like these object to judicial powers over Europeans being extended to natives, for it is probable that under the operation of the Ilbert Bill they would stand a fair chance of getting what they do not want--viz., justice. It is not difficult to imagine how such men would act towards the natives if they were a thousand miles away from a court having jurisdiction in cases of violence on the part of Europeans against natives.

Stay-at-home folks in England usually think of the Mediterranean as being calm as a lake, bathed in sunlight, and blue as the famous grotto in the Island of Capri; but such has not been my experience on the three occasions upon which I have traversed its length.

Once, however, as we were leaving Alexandria, a very beautiful phenomenon presented itself. The waters of the harbour were of a dead pale sea-green while outside the bar the Mediterranean was of an intense, opalescent, turquoise-blue, so exquisitely beautiful that the attention of the whole ship's company was directed upon it. We presently crossed the bar and dipped right into this extraordinary colour. The line of demarcation was clear and sharp, and lay just outside the harbour.

On reaching the open sea we encountered a furious gale, which continued with varying intensity until our arrival off Brindisi four days afterwards--twenty-four hours after time. The sea, which had been running high during the whole voyage, made a clean breach of the bridge on the last evening, necessitating the bringing of the vessel's head to the wind and "lying-to" for the night.

On arrival off the entrance to the harbour no pilot was forthcoming, and it began to be whispered that we should not be permitted to land without undergoing quarantine; but happily our fears proved to be groundless, and the captain having run up a signal informing the port authorities of his intention to go in without a pilot, we were soon alongside, and on European soil once again.

[Picture: After the Battle: Up-Ended Guns]

* * * * *

THE END.

INDEX.

Albatross, The 27 @115}
America (_see also_ United 135-178
States)
America--Journey across from San 147
Francisco
Albany 164
-- Schools at 165
Alkali Plains, The 155
American Language 165
Andre, Major 167
Appetising Mottoes and 160
Sentiments
Arnold, General 167
Bill of Fare, A Curious 160
Blue Gum, The (_illus_) 148
Brigham Young's Dominions 155
Bright, John 151
Boats 165
Bogus Ticket Sellers, Beware 157
of
Buildings, Block of, Removed 161
Bodily
Bull Frogs 149
Buttes, The 158
Canons 152, 157
Cape Horn 152
Catskill Mountains 165
Chicago 160, 161
-- Fires in 161
-- Streets in, Equal to Best 161
in London
-- Timber Houses still 161
Numerous
-- Water Supply for 161
Churches, Opposition 167
Corinne 155
Corn over Ten Feet High 147
-- without Manure 147
Country like a Park 147
Cow-Catcher, The 154
Crash, A Tremendous 152
Descent of 8,000 feet 159
Detroit 162
Devil's Slide, The (_illus_) 159
Dining Car, A Well-appointed 160
Dollar will Go a Long Way 168
Elevation, Greatest Attained 152
English Gold Refused 157
Eschscholtzias growing wild 147
Eucalyptus, The (_illus_) 148
Falls River 164
Fields Hundreds of Acres in 147
extent
Fires in Chicago 161
Flowers, Immense patches of 147
Free Country 169
Gold-Diggings reworked by 149
Chinese
-- Track through 148
Gum Tree, The (_illus_) 148
Hotel, The Grand Pacific, 162
Chicago
Hudson River 165, 167
Identification a Difficult 161
Task
I guess I'll take your Gold 157
Indians, Dreadful looking 149
-- on the War-Path 152
John Scales, Justice of the 168
Peace (_illus_)
Justice, A Dealer in 168
Lake Ontario 164
Language, American 164
Life on the Road, A New 161
Feature of
Lupins growing wild 147
Marigolds, Patches of 147
Military Academy, West Point 167
Mineral Wealth, Untold 148
Money-Lender complains 148
Monument Rock (_illus_) 158
Mormon Advice 154
-- Tabernacle Visited 157
-- Wives lack Cordiality 156
Narrow Escape 151
Night Attack on Indians 153
Ogden 156, 157
Omaha 160
Pacific Railroad, A Single 151
Track
Pallisades, The, Hudson River 166
(_illus_)
Passport Found Useful 161
Pine Forests 149
Poultry Secured by the Leg 169
Pullman Train, Life on Board 149
Railway Covered with Sheds 152
-- on Trestles 157
-- Open to Prairie 154
-- Ride, a splendid one 177
Red Sandstone Rocks 158
Ride, A Long (Omaha to 160
Chicago)
Rip van Winkle 165
River Boats 165
-- Hudson 165, 167
Rome 164
Sacramento Valley 147
Saints, Cruel Treatment by the 153
Salt Lake City Beautifully 156
Situated
-- (_illus_) 155
Sambo said "No Sah!" 159
Schools, National, at Albany 165
Snow Mountains 149
-- Travelling through 157
Soil Twenty Feet Deep 147
Steamers on the Rivers 165
Streets in Chicago Equal to 161
Best in London
Sulphur Spring 157
Syracuse 164
Taurus Meets the Train 154
Tennyson Claimed as an 165
American Author
Timber Houses still Numerous 161
in Chicago
Train, The Last Over 152
-- The, Met by Taurus 154
Trapper's Story, The 153
Turning Point between East and 152
West
Utica 164
Water Supply for Chicago 161
West Point, on the Hudson 167
Witches, The 158
American Grievance 128
-- Passengers from Honolulu 127
Americans not good Sailors 127
Ascension, Island of (_illus_) 17
Auckland 115
Avoca (_illus_) 67
Woolgrowers 67
Australian Colonies (_see also_ 101
Melbourne, Sydney, Victoria,
Tasmania, New South Wales)
Agricultural Labour, A Fine 111
Field for
Artisans, Skilled 110
Australia, People of, 112
Described
-- Young 111
Climate Exhausting 110
_Ornithorhynchus paradoxus_ 112
(_illus_)
Drought, A Ten Months' 113
Education Amply Provided for 111
Emigrate, Who should 110
Free Trade 101
Labour Market, State of 101
-- Unskilled, A Fine Field for 111
Mining Machinery, Perfection 107
of
Platypus, The Duck-billed 112
(_illus_)
Population 120
-- Surplus, Great Field for 110
Postal Arrangements 111
Protection 101
Railways 111
Rent of Houses Enormously Dear 110
Schools, First-rate 111
Telegraphs 111
Wages Higher, but Most Things 110
Dearer, than in England
Baby Hippopotamus at Play 21
(_illus_)
Ballarat 48
Botanical Gardens 49
Gold Mine 48
-- (_illus_) 49
-- Smallness of 49
Gold Raised 49
Lake Wendouree 49
Bananas 127
Bay of Biscay 5
Betting on Board Ship 26
Boat in a Squall off Plymouth 2
Brandy or Whisky? 131
Brummagem Shams, where 13
manufactured
Burial at Sea 131
Burying the Dead Horse (_illus_) 21
Campbell Town 74
Our Waiter at (_illus_) 79
Canada 162
American Customs Officer's 164
Equipment
Clifton House, Niagara 162
Desecration, Ruthless 163
Green Fields like those at 162
Home
Great Western Railway 162
London 162
Niagara, Impressions of 164
Paris 162
Photographers 163
Salary, Must Raise, I Guess 164
Suspension Bridge at Niagara, 164
Crossing
Centipedes, A Plague of 127
Chair, Taking the 129
Coral Reefs 116, 118
Day Dropped 119
Day Gained 119
Duel, Rumours of 121
Educated in Four Colleges 130
Egypt 181-268
Abaid 197
Abbaseyeh Palace 216
Abbas Pasha 216
Abraham or Isaac, Old Fellow 191
like
Aden, a Dreadful Place 239
-- Importance of 239
Adenese Women (_illus_) 240
Agricultural Operations 223
Agriculture a la Adam 188
Alexandria 260
-- in Ruins 264
-- not Bombarded 265
-- the Forts after Bombardment 262
Anglo-Indians 266
Apis Mausoleum, The 203
Arab, A Discerning 232
-- An, Hanged 228
-- School in Syria 211
Arabi, Appointed Under 256
Secretary of War
-- at Colombo 238
-- Bey 255
-- Causes Numerous Arrests 257
-- Erects New Earth-works 258
-- How he Recruited his Army 258
-- Made Pasha 257
-- Military Adventurer 258
-- Moved in a singular way 239
-- Principal Figure in 256
Outbreaks
-- Visit to 238
Arabi's Personal Appearance 239
Arabs, Bedouin 183
-- How Kept in Order 181
-- Picturesque Party of 181
Au Revoir (_illus_) 225
Backsheesh 185, 190, 195, 197, 198, 207,
210, 218, 224, 228, 241, 243
-- not demanded 210
Balah, Lake of 245, 248
Bazaars, In the 190
Bedrashen 201
Beggars 195
Bellows, not made in 191
Birmingham
Bery cheap, sah! (_illus_) 191
Bethshemish (Heliopolis) 220
Biblical Allusions, How to 185
Understand
Biograph, A Graphic 206
Bitter Lakes, The, Identified 246
with Marah
-- Saltness of 247
Black Guard, A 242
Blacking a Boy's Bare Feet 186
Blue Jackets, Look at our 237
_de-ah_
Blue Ribbon Army 233
Boat or Dahabieh 215
Boats, How Propelled 181
Bohemiennes 228
Bonaparte, Attempts to Reopen 245
Suez Canal
Bond-holders, Foreign 254
Bridal Party, A 192
Brindisi 267
British Canal Shares 253
Profitable
-- Mission, Schools at 211
Bulak, A Street in (_illus_) 219
-- Suburb of Cairo 220
Bull, The Sacred 203
Burying-ground 202
Cairo 187, 188, 242
-- Sanitary Condition of, 244
Shocking
-- Trades of 188
-- Visit to, by Train 184
Camelcade, A (_illus_) 208
Camelcades 207
Camels, Strings of 207
Carriages, Ladies' 212
Casinos 228
Cemetery, An Ancient 202
Cetewayo, _alias_ The Carrib 229, 234
-- Disguised as a Gentleman 235, 236
(_illus_)
Cheops, Great Pyramid of 197
Children, Naked 208
Christian, I am a 218
Citadel, The 194
City, A great 202
Civ-il, One must be 236
Colombo 238
Colonels, The, Make further 256
Demands
Concert, A Pleasant, Looked 228
Forward to
Cook and Son 241
-- Name of, a Talisman 241
Coptic Guide offered a 190
Commission
Coral Necklaces 227
Cotter, Lieutenant 229
Court Martial, Irregular 257
Crocodile 206
-- A dead 216
-- Lake 248
Crowd, A Motley 181
Custom-house Examination 182
-- occupied by English 227, 229
Artillerymen
Dahabieh or Nile boat 215
Dancers and Howlers 210
Dervishes, The, Dancing and 209
Howling
-- The, Supported by 210
Government Endowment
Desert, Prayers in the 209
(_illus_)
Devils, Familiar 195
Donkey Boy, An Egyptian 184
(_illus_)
-- My Donkey, good sah 184
Donkey Ride 183
-- across the Nile 215
Donkeys for Nine 183
-- Homeward Bound 216
-- Names of 183
-- Universal Use of 214
Dragoman (_illus_) 182
Drive to Heliopolis 216
Dual Control, The 254
Dutch Hotel occupied by Royal 228
Marines
Egg-hatching Establishment 194
Eggs, she only steals the Eggs 212
now
Egypt, British Occupation of, 244
how Beneficial
-- by whom Disliked 244
Egyptian Character, Saddest 220
Side of
-- People, Requirements of 255
Electric Light, The, 231
El Guisr, The Cutting of 248
Embroidery 190
End, The (_illus_) 268
Englishman perfidious 240
English Representation on 252
Board of Management of Suez Canal
not large enough
Ethiopia shall yet Stretch 185
Forth her Hand
European Buildings, Few 183
Exclusiveness, British 242
Excursion, A delightful 208
Ezbekiyeh Public Gardens 244
Face, A Familiar (_illus_) 261
Fair-day, A 222
Fakir, A Holy (_illus_) 220, 222
Fehmi Pasha 239
Fellaheen, The, ground down 259
Fort Aida 263
-- Meks 263, 265
-- Gemileh 229
French, A Nation of Retailers 252
-- Fleet, The, Withdraws 258
-- The, outwitted 240
Fresh-water Canal completed 246
Friday, the Mohammedan Sabbath 209
Gamblers on Board Ship 235
Gentlemen of the Long Robe 227
Gizeh, Pyramids of 195
-- Station 201
Goshen, Land of 244
-- Land of, preferred 244
Governor, A 'cute 239
Graphic Biograph, A 206
Graveyard at Tel-el-Kebir 243
Greek Money-changer 226
Gun Hill 263
Hassan 182, 184, 241
-- Sultan 192
-- Disguised as a Pilgrim 192
-- How he Recovered his Throne 194
Heliopolis (Bethshemish) 220
-- Drive to 216
Hens, Laziness of 194
Hippopotamus 206
Homes, Everlasting 207
Home to Vote 225
Hostelries 207
Hotel Abbat 260
Howlers and Dancers 210
Insects something Maddening 230
Irrigation 223
-- Method of, Described 188
Ismailia 186, 248
Jewellers 191
-- Weighing for 191
Joseph and Mary's Tree 218
Kantara 247
Khalifs, The Tombs of the 216
(_illus_)
Khedive's Gardens, The 215
Khedive, The 208, 212
-- The, Compelled to submit 255
Koran, The, in Competition 189
with Threepenny Pieces
Labour, Forced, a Painful 187
Sight
Lady, The Last Unmarried 230
Lake Menzaleh 230, 247
-- Timsah 248
Lakes, The Bitter 245, 249
Law of Liquidation 254
Lepere's Theory 245
-- Proved Incorrect 245
Lesseps, M., Detained at 245
Alexandria
-- Matures his Theory 246
L'etat, c'est moi 259
Leviathan, Job's Reference to 207
Lucullus 259
Lily, Painting the 186
Luggage, A Lady's 184
-- How Treated 181
Mameluke Dynasty, The Last of 218
Mamelukes, Massacre of 194
Manufacturing Quarter 191
Mariette exhumes the Serapeum 203
Marines 229
-- as Police 230
Mausoleum, The Apis 203
Mecca Pilgrims, Rendezvous of 216
Mediterranean, The 267
-- Waters of, Flow into Bitter 246, 248
Lakes
Member, Once a, always a 234
Member
Memphis 202
-- Ancient, Site of 201
-- Little more than a Name 202
Menzaleh, Lake of 245
Military Riot 255
Mitrahineh (site of Ancient 201
Memphis)
Mohammed Ali, Mosque of 194
Money-Changers' Liberality 227
Monument, Most Ancient in the 202
World
Mosque of Sultan Hassan, Visit 194
to
-- The, of Sultan Hassan 193
(_illus_)
Mother, Son thrashes her only 212
once a month
Mud, Great Difficulty in 230
Making Canal
Museum, The National, for 222
Egyptian Antiquities
Mutinous Conduct 256
Naval Force sent by France and 257
England
-- Arrival at Alexandria 257
Nap on Deck 234
Necropolis, Ancient 202
Nile-boat, A 216
Nile, The 187
-- Valley of 188
-- View on the (_illus_) 198
Nobleman, The Languishing 184
Noph (Memphis) 202
Nubians Reported to be 229
Excellent Soldiers
Obelisk, The Oldest in Egypt 218
Octroi, or Town Tax 216
On (Heliopolis) 220
Orgies, Pious 210
Orient, The Steamship 186
(_illus_)
-- a Magnificent Steamship 181
Orphans, Venerable 224
Palmerston, Lord, thwarts 246
Lesseps
Palms, Oranges, and Lemons 218
Patriarchal Group, A 197
Pebbles as Mementoes of 243
Tel-el-Kebir
Peep, A (_illus_) 190
Penny, New, Refused 185
People, Vast Numbers with 185
Nothing to do
Perim, Island of, how acquired 239
Pious Orgies 210
Police, The, Armed with Long 216
Spikes
Port Said 230, 247
-- a Dreadful Place to Live in 230
-- Harbour 231
-- Lighthouse 231
-- Railway wanted to 232
Power vested in Military Party 257
Prayers in the Desert 209
(_illus_)
Predictions, Ill-founded 249
President, The, of Red Ribbon 235
Army
Pyramid, Ascending the Great 196
(_illus_)
-- The great Step 202
-- The Oldest 202
Pyramids, Road to 187
-- The 216
-- The, First View of 187
Quarantine 268
Ramleh 263
Ramses II, Statue of 202
Ras-el-Tin 261
Red Tape 250
-- Ribbon Army 233
Rendezvous of Mecca Pilgrims 216
Revoir, Au (_illus_) 225
Riot and Massacre of Europeans 257
Rotten Row of Cairo, The 212
Runners or Sais, The (_illus_) 212, 212
Sabbath, the Mohammedan 209
Safes, obviously of English 191
Manufacture
Sais, The 212
Sacred Bull, Burying-place of 203
Sakkara, To 201
Sand, A good Preservative 205
Sarcophagus, A huge 203
School, An Arab, in Syria 211
-- Interrupted 189
Schoolmaster's, A, 211
Disappointment
Schoolmaster, The, Abroad 189
(_illus_)
-- The, asks for Backsheesh 190
Schools, Miss Whateley's 211
Sculpture, Life-like 222
Selim, Sultan 218
Serapeum, The (_illus_) 203, 204
Seymour, Admiral, Opens Fire 258
on Forts
Shalouf 248
Shave, A, and a Wash (_illus_) 199, 199
Ship of the Desert, A Wrecked 223
Shoeblacks 186
Shops Tiny 182
Shubra Avenue, In (_illus_) 214
-- The 212
Simon Stylites 220
Soldier, British, in Egypt 242
Soldiers, English, quite at 244
home
-- glad to have Newspapers 230
Sphinx, The 216
-- The (_illus_) 199
Spider, The 233, 234, 235
Spider's Web, The 234
Statue, A, Four Thousand Years 222
old
Stick, The Heaven-sent 198
Story-teller, A 222
Storytellers, Professional, at 188
Cairo
Strabo, on the Serapeum 203
Street in Bulak (_illus_) 219
Streets of Suez Narrow 182
Suez 241, 248
-- Arrive off 181
Suez Canal, A new Canal wanted 252
-- British Traffic through 247
-- Cost of Constructing 247
-- Does not silt up 249
-- Embankments of 247
-- Erroneous Impressions 249
-- Festivities on Opening 247
-- First Undertaken by Pharaoh 244
Necho
-- French Officials inferior 250
in capacity
-- French short-sighted in 252
Business Matters
-- In the (_illus_) 226
-- Lesseps' Monopoly 252
-- Lesseps, M. de 250
-- Mercantile Importance of 247
-- Necessity of increased 250
accommodation
-- Operations begun 246
-- Palmerston, Lord, Obstinacy 250
of
-- Restrictions Absurd 251
-- Ships not allowed to move 251
after Sun-down
-- Sinuosities of 249
-- Steamers under perfect 250
control
-- Suggestion, A 253
-- How to deal with Profit 253
-- The 244
Suez Hotel 182, 242
-- Streets of, Narrow 182
Sultan, Selim 218
Tel-el-Kebir 242, 243
Temple, Underground 201
Tih, The Tomb of 205
Timsah, Lake, Lord Wolseley's 248
base of operations
Tomb of Tih (_illus_) 205, 206
Tombs of the Khalifs (_illus_) 216
Torture, A Novel Instrument of 220
Town Tax, The, or the Octroi 216
Treasures, Buried 201
Tree, The Virgin's 218
Umbrellas, A New Use for 181
Villages, Dreadful Mud 207
Virgin's Tree, The 218
Wash, A, and a Shave (_illus_) 199, 201
Wash Basin, An Impromptu 229
Washing Hands, A Primitive 199
Mode of
Water-carriers (_illus_) 215
Weigher for the Trade 192
Whateley's, Miss, Schools 211
What lack ye? 226
Wild Fowl Shooting, Good 230
Words which Broke no Bones 182
Zagazig 187
Equator, Heat at 24
Faces too Dark to be Seen 122
Falmouth 63
Beach and Sands 71
Burial-place (_illus_) 70
Cockney Sportsman 71
Der Dichter Spricht 65
Epping Forest 67
Hotel (_illus_) 69
Land of Snakes 64
Magpies 63
River Esk 64
Stoney Creek 64
Fernshaw 53
Hard Fare 53
Pioneering 53
Fiji Children ask for More 117
-- Islands 116
-- Native of (_illus_) 117
Fingal 67
Fire Brigade Practice 119
Flying Fish 27
Free Trade 99
Gambling on Board Ship 26
Golden Gate, The 131
Gum Trees, A Forest of 51
-- (_illus_) 52, 53
Habits of Islanders acquired 128
Healesville 51
A Soafler 51
Hotel Accommodation 51, 56
Remedy, a Sovereign 58
Hobart Town 77
Fern Tree Valley 78
Harvest in February 78
Jericho to Jerusalem, via 78
Bagdad
New Norfolk 78
Homeward Bound 127
Honolulu, Arrival at 122
Baby Sold for a Dollar 126
Breakfast ordered Overnight 122
Brownie, Quite a 125
Chairs or Seats usually absent 126
Children described 124
Country very Poor 125
Dragon-flies, numerous 124
Dressmaking not a difficult 124
Art
Faces too Dark to be Seen 122
Fire-flies 122
Flowers of the most brilliant 124
colours
Grass green and beautiful 124
Hawaiian Islands, King of, 123
Landlord of Hotel
Healthiness of 127
Heathen Chinee, his Tricks not 123
in Vain
Hotel 122
Houses made chiefly of Rushes 126
Islanders _en fete_ 121
Letters, Glad to be Rid of 125
Library 125
Museum 125
Natives Dressed in Splendid 124
Colours
Parliament House 125
Passenger Overboard 121
Perfume of Tropical Flowers 122
Pilots Decline to go out for 121
Vessels
Race fast dying out 125
Ruth, the King's Sister 126
(_illus_)
Servants gone Home 122
Squatting on Ground Prevailing 126
Custom
Supper not to be had 122
Temperature of 127
Vegetation of 124
Village, Native 126
Villas Pretty and Numerous 126
Waiters Celestial 123
Water, Thoughts when Under 121
Women's Clothing, Scanty 124
Women Stately Looking 124
Honolulu, Hotel at 122
Horse, Burying the Dead (_illus_) 21
Hotel Experiences 67
I guess the seat is dry now 129
Irish Bulls, where manufactured 13
Islanders _en fete_ 121
Jefferson Brick, Junior 129
Jerra Jerra 96
Kandavu 115
Knife Trick, The 130
Life on Board Ship (see 3-39
Ship--Life on Board)
Lyre Bird, The (_illus_) 59
Launceston 61
Bees in Mourning 62
Cicadas 61
Cora Linn 63
Pomona's Temple 62
Snakes 61
Tamar River 61
Tasmanian Hospitality 62
Tonsorial Palace 62
Tree Locusts 61
Marysville 56
Stephenson Falls 56
Meal, a good square one preferred 121
on Shore
Melbourne (_see also_ Victoria) 39
Berry Ministry, the 43
Black Death at 40
Black Spur Mountains 50
-- (_illus_) 56
Building Trade at, Depressed, 102
Results
Bush, The 50
Description of 41
Education 42
Exhibition at, why decided on 102
Happy Land 46
Hobson's Bay 39, 80
Hot Winds 47
Natural History Museum 42
Old Debts, a New Way to Pay 45
Overland from Sydney 94, 100
Parliamentary Procedure 43
Parliament, Houses of 45
-- Payment of Members of 44
Protection 102
Revisited 79
Roads 50
Sanitary Arrangements, 47
Defective
Stage Coaches 50
Streets wide and long 103
Tall and Fat a street sweeper 48
Tramways opposed by Cabmen 103
Vineyards 50
Yarra Yarra River 60
Mister 130
Moighty Dry 130
Native Dish called Poi 128
New South Wales (see also Sydney) 107
Acres Many, Men Few 107
Agricultural Machinery, 108
Imported
Artisans Attracted from 109
Victoria
Customs Revenue, Increase of 110
Employment Abundant 107
Exports, Increase of 110
Free Trade Colony 107
Hudson Bros, Limited 108
Immigration Larger than in 109
Victoria
Imports, Increase of 110
Imports in 1782 and 1881 109
Industry, A Native, Created 108
Labour, Increasing Demand for 109
Machinery, Agricultural and 108
Mining, Imports of
-- Mining, Demand for 107
Manufacturing Concern, Largest 108
in Colony
Men Few, Acres Many 107
Mining Machinery, Imports of 108
-- Machinery, Perfection of 107
Policy Opposite to that of 107
Victoria
Population Attracted 109
-- Constantly Increasing 107
-- Increase of, in Ten Years 110
-- Room for More 109
Prosperity, Evidences of 107
Railway System, Vast and 107
Expanding
Sawmills, Steam, at Sydney 108
Shipping 107
-- Development of 109
-- During last Thirty Years 109
-- Repairing Yards Removed 109
from Victoria
Timber, Native Better than 108
Imported
Trade, Import and Export 107
Victoria Contrasted with 107
Oatlands 78
The Gaol 79
Pacific Ocean belies its Name 115
Parson, The, Quite at Sea 16
A Man of Peace now 30
Colonists' complain of 32
Congregation, Secures a 16
Drain Pipes, how they are made 30
Mixes his Degrees 31
Sermon on Geology 16
Water Pumped from a Mine 16
Twelve Miles Deep
Passenger, Death of 130
-- falls Overboard 121
Personal Difficulties 120
-- Favour, As a 131
Pilots Decline to go out for 121
Vessels
Protection 39, 100
Salt Water good for the "Spin-ial 7
Orgins"
San Francisco 131
Baggage Master 147
Business Activity 138
-- Men, Sharp 140
Carriages, Hackney 144
Character, Bad Better than 139
None
Chinaman, Am claimed as a 144
Chinese Close Shavers 141
Chinese Pigtails (_illus_) 142
-- Joss Houses Visited 143
-- Quarter Full of Interest 141
-- Numerous 140
-- Quarter Explored at Night 143
-- Theatre Visited 143
-- Washer_men_ 137
-- Wedding 143
Civilisation and Barbarism 137
Face to Face
Climate Delightful 145
Correspondent, A Familiar 138
Darwin would have been 142
Delighted
Dodge, A Favourite 139
Earning a Cent anyhow 132
English Fittings 137
Entrance to Harbour Sighted 131
Fire Brigades 144
Flats and Sharps 139
Golden Gate, The 131
Governor, Qualifications for a 140
State
Habit, The National 138
Hackney Carriages 144
Heat and Dust Terrible 147
I Guess you are Going to 140
England
Jarrett, A. J. C. 138
John Chinaman 141
Knife and Fork, only One at 138
Meals
Lady Doctors Numerous 140
Luggage, Arrangements for, 147
Excellent
Min-ne, Little 141
Mister, Last of (_illus_) 146
My Wife is Dead 138
Pacific Seal 145
Palace Hotel 135, 137
Police, Messenger from Chief 139
of
Sea-lions 145
Seal Rocks (_illus_) 145
Starching, a Fine Art 137
Streets, Handsome 138
Tang-y, A Chinese City 144
Tang-ye, Proof of Celestial 144
Origin
Temperature 145
Tobacco Chewing and its 138
Consequences
Tramways 144
Volunteers 144
Yosemite Valley 146
San Francisco, Voyage to 113, 132
Sharks 18, 30
-- don't like Dark Skins 118
Ship-Life on board 3
Albatross 27
Bay of Biscay, Nor'-wester in 6
Bazaar 34
Betting 26, 38
Blatant Beast, The, fires a 25
Revolver
Burying the Dead Horse 21
Cabin'd, Cribb'd, Confin'd 3
Cape Otway 38
Captain not so fond of 12
Progress as the Passengers
Captains, why they are Tories 13
Cat Chase 26
Collisions at Sea 29
Colonial Statesman beaten but 39
not vanquished
Concerts and Recitations 9
Congregation, How to Secure a 16
Consumptive Patients sent too 5
late
Cross-signalling 35
Danite Band, The 33
Death and Burial at Sea 15
Dolphins 27
Dolphin, the "Classic" 28
(_illus_)
Dramatic Performance 35
Exhibition, Fine Art 35
Fellow-passengers 4
First Night on Board 3
Flying Fish 27
Gale off Cape Leeuwin 38
Genial Captain (_illus_) 11
advantageous
German Lady, old but lively 19
Hobson's Bay 39
Illness of Passengers 14
Incident in Cornwall recalled 24
Ixion goes mad 14
Letters Home 29
Life Friendships formed 4
Love your Enemies 17
Melbourne, Arrive at 39
Music not always harmonious 10
Night-walkers a nuisance 9
Nor'-wester in the Bay of 6
Biscay
Parson Mixes his Degrees 31
Pilot Fish 28
Passengers paying their 30
Footing
-- divided into Sets 3
Peal of Hand-bells 16
Portuguese Man-of-War 28
Private Convict System 4
Quoits a selfish Game 9
Rolling Forties 38
Scarlet Lady 20
Sea-sickness, Cure for 6
Sermon on Geology 16
Sharks 18, 30
Ship in full Sail 29
Short and Stout 25
Soup too Salt 19
Sports (_illus_) 8
Spurgeon's Evangelist 32
Squall near Madeira 12
Steward's Life a hard one 7
Tall and Fat 25
Tristan d'Acunha 38
Tropical Heat 8, 24
Tropical Phosphorescence 33
Newspaper 10
Water Pumped from Twelve Miles 16
Deep
Wild Spirits carry on 25
Whale 30
Ship's Doctors 120
Snakes 61, 64, 68, 72, 73, 74, 97
Spurgeon's Evangelist 32
Steward, A Negro 115
St Mary's (_illus_) 68
Supper, Too late for 123
Sunday at the Fiji Islands 116
Sydney (_see also_ New South 80
Wales)
Ants 90
Bail-up 89
Bathurst 89
Blue Mountains 84
Botanical Gardens 82
Bullock Team on Blue Mountains 94
(_illus_)
Bush Hut (_illus_) 95
Bushrangers 89
Cottage, Mount Victoria 86
(_illus_)
Education Act, The, Amended 92
Excise Act 92
Falls, The Weatherboard 87
(_illus_)
Great Goat Sucker, The 90
Harbour (_illus_) 80
Hartley Vale, Descent to 88
(_illus_)
Harvest on New Year's Day 95
Hotels, Primitive 84
Laughing Jackass, The 90
(_illus_)
Lithgow 88
Manufacturing Concern, Largest 107
in Colony
Oysters 83
-- on Trees 84
Political Situation 92
Saw Mills, Steam 108
Sheep Runs 95
Southerly Buster, A 83
Sydney to Melbourne Overland 94, 100
Albury 98
Ants 96
Axles, Imported 108
Bush, The 96
Carriage Furniture, Imported 108
Drought of Ten Months' 113
duration
Endurance of Post-horses 98
Euroa 100
Free Trade at 108
Germanton 96
Hay, Price of 113
Hudson Brothers (Limited) 108
Industry, A Native, Created 108
Jerra Jerra 96
Kelly's Exploits at Euroa 100
Magpies, Large 96
Railway Rolling Stock 108
Manufacturers
Rain, Downpour of 114
River Murray 99
Royal Mail 96
Sheep, Loss of 114
Shipping during last thirty 109
years
Sighing for Old England 97
Snakes 97
Springs, Imported 108
Timber, Native Better than 108
Imported
Tommy, a youthful Driver 98
Town, An Up-country (_illus_) 98
Vineyards 99
Wagga Wagga 95, 96
Wheels, Imported 108
Wodonga 99
Sydney to San Francisco 113, 132
Tasmania 75
Farms large in size 75
Good Roads 75
Hawkers 76
Mount Wellington (_illus_) 76
River Derwent 75
The Rabbit and the Thistle 75
Teneriffe (_illus_) 7
Travelling by Rail and Ship 1
compared
Tree Ferns 52, 56
Tristan d'Acunha, Island of 36
Tropical Heat 8, 24
-- Phosphorescence 33
Tropics, In the (_illus_) 40
Turtles 18
United States 169
Americans would Become our 176
Competitors
Artisans (American) not Better 176
Off than British
-- Wages and Holidays 174
Baggage Arrangements 171
Convenient
-- Described 171
Books Dear 170
Cabmen Disgusted 171
Cadgers, In England such Men 176
would be Called
Calicoes Consigned to England 173
Charges Simply Monstrous 170
Children without Shoes and 177
Stockings
Climate more Trying than that 174
of England
-- of America Exhausting 176
Competition Become Exceedingly 175
Fierce
Considerably Sold 178
Corruption among Officials 169
Cotton Mill Operatives from 175
Germany, etc.
Dear America 170
Dinner, Charge for a Plain 170
Engine, The Largest, in the 172
World
Exhibition, The Centennial, 169, 171
Philadelphia
Exports Limited by Protection 175
Factory Operatives' Wages 174
Lower than in Lancashire
Fair Trade Agitation 174
Fortunes, Colossal, Built up 176
under Protection
Freedom for Tongue and Foot 177
Free Trade and Wages 174
-- not an Unmixed Blessing 176
-- under, Wider Distribution 176
of Material Comfort
Holidays Fewer than in England 174
Hours of Labour Longer than in 176
England
-- Longer than in Lancashire 174
Improvements (so-called) in 172
Manufactures
Labour, Honest, Avoided 176
Liquor Traffic Presents Many 177
Difficulties
Living, Cost of, Higher than 174
in England
Loafers Numerous 176
Negro Labour does not Flood 177
the Markets
Newspaper Inferior and Dear 170
New York 169
Officials, Corruption among 169
Over-production 173
Philadelphia 171
Protection, An Argument for 173
-- and Wages 174
-- Doomed 175
-- Wages Steadily Declining 176
under
Railway Charges Moderate 171
Rich, but Honest 169
Slave Experiences 177
Something Hot 178
Steamboat Charges Moderate 171
Sunday Traffic Perplexing 177
Teetotal Lecture, A Regular 178
Temperance Lecture, The First, 178
they had Heard
Tools, Inferior 172
Wages Higher, but Balanced by 176
Extra Cost of Living
-- Higher, not a Full 176
Equivalent
-- Lower than in 1860 174
-- Steadily Declining under 176
Protection
-- with Free Trade and 174
Protection
Victoria (_see also_ Melbourne) 101
Agricultural Industries not 105
Protected
-- Heavily Taxed 105
Artisans Attracted to New 109
South Wales
Books, Can Produce Her Own 104
Cabby Overrides the Tramway 103
Country Districts Sparsely 101
Populated
Customs, Revenue, Stationary 110
Depression of Building Trade 102
at Melbourne
Dog Subsisting on His Own Tail 102
Duty on Imports Demanded 103
Exhibition at Melbourne why 102
Decided on
Exports, Increase of 110
Fiscal Policy, Vicious 105
Food, Taxation of, not 105
Permitted
Free Trade--the _Argus_ 104
-- for Raw Materials 103
Government, Quite Right to 106
Cheat the
Immigration, Grants in Aid of 105
Imported Manufactures Heavily 101
Taxed
Imports, Increase of 110
Laws, Evasion of, by 106
Protectionists
Locomotives Costly 104
-- Required 104
Manufacturer's Profit not 104
quite enough
Manufacturers Require Larger 105
Field
Minerals, Home Demand for, 105
Small
-- Mainly Exported 105
Mining Industries not 105
Protected
-- Machinery Heavily Taxed 105
Native Industry, In Interests 104
of
Natural Resources Neglected 102
New South Wales, Contrasted 107
with
Population Concentrated in 101
Large Towns
-- Increase of, in Ten Years 110
-- (Manufacturing) Growing 102
Faster than its Customers
-- not Retained 101
-- Larger, a Great Want 105
-- Room for Larger 105
Prices sufficiently High 104
Printed Books should be more 104
Heavily Taxed
Printing Materials, Suggestion 104
to Tax
Protected Industries for a 103
Limited Time
-- Manufacturers not Happy 106
Protection Demanded by 102
Manufacturers
-- Effect on Money 106
-- in its most Pronounced Form 101
Protectionist Newspapers 103
Railway Stores 105
Shipping--Repairing Yards 109
Removed to New South Wales
Tramways Opposed by Cabmen 103
Tariff Revision Committee 103
Working Classes Jealous of 105
Competition
Work, Legislature Expected to 102
Supply
Workpeople very Independent 107
Voyage, Author's First, to 5
Australia
Waterspout 119
Water, Thoughts when Under 121
White Squall, The 35
Yankee Journalist described 129
Yankee's Inquiry 128

NOTES.

{226} In a former chapter I gave an account of a voyage to Australia by way of the Cape of Good Hope. On a subsequent visit to the Colonies I went by the Canal route, returning through Egypt overland.

{259a} It is understood that the Khedive's English financial adviser is about to take in hand the case of the Fellaheen versus the Usurers. It may aid him to know how a similar state of things in a neighbouring country was dealt with about 2000 years ago.

"Lucullus, Roman general, in his wars against Mithridates, having
occupied many cities in Asia which had long been a prey to
tax-farmers and usurers, undertook to relieve the people from the
extreme misery to which they had been reduced, and set about
redeeming the properties given as security to the rapacious
money-lenders. He first greatly reduced the rate of interest;
secondly, where the interest exceeded the principal he struck it off.
He then ordered that the creditor should receive the fourth part of
the debtor's income, but if in making his claim any creditor had
added the interest to the principal, it was utterly disallowed. By
these means, in the, space of four years, all debts were paid, and
the lands returned to the rightful owners."--_Plutarch's Lives_.

{259b} Report of Mr. Villiers Stuart, M.P., to Lord Dufferin on "The Social and Economical Condition of the People."