Chapter I: Part 1

</pre>

Produced by Moti Ben-Ari and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net. (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive.)

ILLUSTRATED MICHELIN GUIDES
TO THE BATTLE-FIELDS (1914-1918)

RHEIMS
AND THE BATTLES FOR ITS POSSESSION.

MICHELIN & Cie--CLERMONT=FERRAND.
MICHELIN TYRE Co. Ltd., 81, Fulham Road, LONDON, S.W.
MICHELIN TIRE Co., MILLTOWN, N.J., U.S.A.

You don't know what a =Good Road Map= is if you haven't used the =Michelin Map= (_Scale - 1:200,000_) (3.15 miles to the inch).

On sale at Michelin stockists and booksellers.

The tourist finds his way about easily =in town=, if he has a plan giving the names of the streets.

He gets about with the same ease and certainty =on the road=, if he has a =Michelin map=, because it gives all the road numbers on the milestones and road-signs.

THE BEST & CHEAPEST DETACHABLE WHEEL

_The Michelin Wheel is practical and strong_

_The Michelin Wheel is simple and smart_

THE "TOURING CLUB DE FRANCE."

If you are not a Member of the Touring Club de France join to-day. By doing so, you will help France and, at the same time, yourself. (Intending Members should be introduced by two actual Members, or furnish references.)

If you are already a Member of the Touring Club de France Introduce new Members. It will only cost you a little good will, and you will have the satisfaction of knowing that you have helped to augment the Association's beneficent influence.

SUBSCRIPTIONS:

The yearly subscription is:

6 francs for new Members of French nationality.

10 francs for new Members of other nationality, wherever their
residence may be.

New subscriptions paid from October 1 are valid for the
following calendar year.

Life subscriptions may be effected in one payment of 120 francs
for persons of French nationality, or 200 francs if of other
nationality.

The title of "Membre-Fondateur" may be acquired by the payment
of 300 francs.

A minimum payment of 500 francs confers the title of
"Membre-Bienfaiteur."

THE TOURING CLUB DE FRANCE,
65, AVENUE DE LA GRANDE ARMEE, PARIS (16).

IN MEMORY
OF THE MICHELIN EMPLOYEES
AND WORKMEN WHO DIED GLORIOUSLY
FOR THEIR COUNTRY.

RHEIMS
AND THE BATTLES FOR ITS POSSESSION.

Published by
MICHELIN & CIE
Clermont-Ferrand, France.

Copyright by Michelin & Cie. 1919.

_All rights of translation, adaptation, or reproduction
(in part or whole) reserved in all countries._

_On July 6th, 1919, the President of the French Republic conferred the_ =Croix de la Legion d'Honneur= _on Rheims (fastening it personally on the City Arms), with the following_ "=citation=":--

"_Martyred city, destroyed by an infuriated enemy, powerless to hold it._

"_Sublime population who, like the Municipal Authorities--models of devotion to duty and despising all danger--gave proof of magnificent courage, by remaining more than three years under the constant menace of the enemy's attacks, and by leaving their homes only when ordered to do so._

"_Inspired by the example of the heroic French maid of venerated memory, whose statue stands in the heart of the city, showed unshakeable faith in the future of France (Croix de Guerre)._"

=RHEIMS=

=POLITICAL HISTORY=

Rheims is one of the oldest towns in France, so old that legendary accounts, in an endeavour to outdo one another, carry back its foundation sometimes to 1440 B.C. after the Flood, sometimes to the siege of Troy. Lying at the intersection of the natural routes between Belgium and Burgundy, and between the Parisian basin and Lorraine, _i.e._ between political districts that long remained different in character, and regions having different commercial resources, it was at one and the same time the "_oppidum_" and _market-town_. Its military and commercial position destined it early to be a great city.

It probably takes its name from the tribe of the _Remi_, who occupied almost the whole territory now forming the "_departements_" of the Marne and the Ardennes, and who were clients of the _Suessiones_ (Soissons) before the Roman conquest. It was already a prosperous town, under the name of "_Durocortorum_," when Caesar conquered Gaul. It freed itself from the yoke of the Suessiones by accepting the Roman domination. When the Belgians revolted in 57 B.C., the _Remi_ remained faithful to Caesar and received the title of "_friends of the Roman people_." Neither did they take any part in the general revolt of Gaul in 52 B.C. Under the Empire, Rheims was, with Treves, one of the great centres of Latin culture in "_Gallia Belgica_." On becoming a federated city, it retained its institutions and senate. A favourite residence of the Roman Governors, Rheims was embellished with sumptuous villas and magnificent monuments, and soon became one of the most prosperous towns in Gaul. At the beginning of the Germanic invasions Rheims drew in its borders and became a military town. Under _Diocletian_ it was the capital of _Belgica Secunda_.

According to tradition, Christianity was first preached in Rheims by St. Sixtus and St. Sinirus, the first bishops of the city. However that may be, Christianity was firmly established there as early as the 3rd century. A bishop of Rheims was present at the Council of Arles in 314. The conversion of several great Roman personages (amongst others, the _Consul Jovinus_--see p. 118) favoured the progress of the Christian religion.

In the 5th century, when Rome, otherwise occupied, was unable to hold back the barbarians, invasions interfered with the development of the city. The Frankish conquest marked the beginning of a new period of prosperity. In 486, after the victory of Soissons, _Clovis_ entered into negotiations with St. Remi, who, at the age of 22, had been elected Bishop of Rheims in 459, and whose long episcopate of seventy-four years is probably unique in history. On Christmas Day, A.D. 496, St. Remi, who had arranged the marriage of Clovis with the Christian princess Clotilde, baptized the Frankish king with his own hands in the Cathedral. This important event took place undoubtedly at Rheims and not at Tours, as a learned German, _Krusch_, has attempted to prove.

Under the Merovingians and Carolingians, the history of Rheims became merged in that of the French monarchy. The possession of the city was disputed as fiercely as that of the throne. The city was mixed up in quarrels from which it suffered, without, however, losing its religious prestige. Pepin-le-Bref and Pope Stephen III., Charlemagne and Pope Leo III. had famous interviews there. When the Carolingians restored the religious hierarchy Rheims became one of the twenty-two chief cities of the Empire. From the time of Charlemagne, the Archbishop of Rheims ruled over twelve bishoprics, comprising the cities of the ancient Roman province of _Belgica Secunda_.

From the 9th to the 11th century the history of Rheims is that of its church. The Counts of Vermandois, the Lords of Coucy and the archbishops first disputed, then divided its temporal possession, the latter falling eventually to the archbishops in the 11th century. After becoming Counts, with the right to coin money, and, from 940, powerful temporal princes, the archbishops played a great political part in the struggles between the Carolingian princes. Under _Charles-le-Chauve_, Archbishop Hincmar became the protector of the enfeebled monarchy. In 858 he prevented _Louis-le-Germanique_ from deposing his nephew and becoming King of France. In 987, Archbishop Adalberon, at the Meeting of Senlis, drove the legitimate heir, _Charles de Lorraine_, from the throne, and favoured the election of Hughes Capet. Although, under the Capetians, Paris became the political capital of France, Rheims became the religious metropolis of the kingdom. From the time when _Louis-le-Pieux_ had himself consecrated emperor in the Cathedral, by Pope Stephen IV., it was understood that every new king must be consecrated by the successor of St. Remi.

=The Consecration of the Kings of France=

In the 12th century, Popes and Kings formally acknowledged the right of the Archbishop of Rheims to consecrate and crown the kings of France. As a matter of fact, until the Revolution, all the kings, except Louis IV. and Henri IV., were consecrated at Rheims.

The ceremony of consecration filled the Cathedral with a great crowd of people. Apart from the peers, numerous prelates, dignitaries of the Kingdom, the Court, the Chapter of the Cathedral and the populace crowded in. Staging was erected for the public in the transept ends and along the choir. Before the consecration took place, the archbishop, at the head of a procession, went to receive the _Sacred Ampulla_ at the threshold of the Cathedral, brought on horseback by the Abbot of St. Remi. Returning to the altar, the prelate received the King's oath and then consecrated him, anointing him with the holy oil on his head and breast, between and on his shoulders, on the joints of his arms and in the palms of his hands, each motion being accompanied with a special prayer. Then the Peers handed the insignia of royalty to the archbishop, who, surrounded by all the Peers, placed the crown of Charlemagne on the head of the King, _while the people shouted_ "_Long live the King_."

The King was then led to a throne prepared for him at the entrance to the Choir, and mass was celebrated with great pomp. The King and Queen communicated in both kinds, and the royal party then went in procession to the archbishop's palace, where the _Feast of Consecration_ was held.

In 1162, the Archbishopric of Rheims, until then a county, became a Duchy and the highest peerage in France, which explains why it was given to great personages, such as Henri-de-France and Guillaume-de-Champagne, brother and brother-in-law of Louis VII.

In the 12th century the archbishops, freed from the feudal rivalries, were confronted by a new power, the _bourgeoisie_ or middle classes, born of the progress of industry and commerce, and whose importance was demonstrated by the great Champagne Fairs held sometimes at Rheims and sometimes at Troyes. The first _Company of Burgesses_, founded in 1138, soon became a "_Commune_." In 1147, the suburb of St. Remi, which the archbishop refused to allow to become attached to the "_Commune_" rose in revolt and was only appeased by the intervention of St. Bernard and Suger.

In 1160, Archbishop Henri-de-France, with the help of the Count of Flanders, who was occupying Rheims with a thousand horsemen, suppressed the "_Commune_" whose independence was alarming him. In 1182 a royal charter, granting to the inhabitants the right to elect for a year twelve "_echevins_" (aldermen), re-established the _Commune_ in fact, if not in name, but the struggle between the _Commune_ and the archbishop still went on. In 1211, Philippe-Auguste compelled the aldermen to hand over the keys of the city gates to the archbishop.

In 1228, Archbishop Henri-de-Braine, not feeling himself safe in the city, built the fortified castle of Mars-Gate (or old castle of the archbishops) outside the walls, but looking towards the city (_photo, p. 6_). During the serious riots of 1235, the burgesses besieged the archbishop's castle, for which act they were excommunicated by Pope Gregory IX., and rebuked by St. Louis. In 1257, St. Louis intervened once more, to put an end to the fighting between the free Companies of the Burghers and the soldiers of the archbishop.

In the 14th century the two adversaries frequently came to blows, until the king, in 1362, put an end to their quarrels by taking into his own hands the care and military government of Rheims.

In spite of these local struggles the city developed in the course of the Middle Ages. With Chartres it had a well-attended episcopal school, long before Paris. Among the masters of this school were _Gerbert_, one of the most learned men of the Middle Ages, who became Pope under the name of Sylvester II., and _St. Bruno_, founder of the Carthusian Order. Among the pupils were _Fulbert_ (afterwards Bishop of Chartres), the historian _Richer_, _Guillaume de Champeaux_, and _Abelard_ (adversary of St. Bernard).

During the Hundred Years' War (_see military section_) the Town Council of Rheims, which the Treaty of Troyes in 1420 had placed under the domination of the English, declared in favour of Charles VII., in spite of the Duke of Burgundy, who was residing at Laon, and notwithstanding the intrigues of the Bishop of Beauvais, Pierre Cauchon, who, profiting by the absence of the archbishop, went so far as to have a _Corpus Christi_ procession in the city, to call down the blessing of Heaven upon the English. On July 17th, 1429, Joan-of-Arc handed over the keys of the city to the king, and was present at the consecration, standing near the altar with her standard which, "after having been through much tribulation, was accounted worthy of a place of honour." Since the return of Charles VII. to Rheims, the city had never ceased to be French. After the departure of the king and Joan-of-Arc, a friend of Pierre Cauchon plotted to deliver the town into the hands of the Duke of Burgundy, to whom the English promised it, provided he could take it. The plot was discovered and failed.

Under Louis XI. a serious revolt, known as the Micquemaque, broke out in the town. Louis, well received at the time of his consecration, had promised the people of Rheims (or so they believed) the abolition of the tax known as the "_taille._" When, therefore, in the following year, the collectors demanded payment, the people rose in revolt and drove them out.

As usual, the king had recourse to treachery. Disguised as peasants, his soldiers entered the city unperceived. Once inside, they arrested those who were most deeply compromised, and carried out violent reprisals. Houses were plundered, many of the inhabitants banished, and nine put to death.

During the War of Religion, Rheims sided with the Catholics.

Under the influence of the _Guises_, five of whom were archbishops of Rheims (notably Cardinal Charles de Lorraine, the protector of Rabelais and Ronsard, and founder of the University of Rheims in 1547), the town espoused the cause of the League and opened its gates to the Duc de Mayenne in 1585. It submitted to Henri IV. only after the battle of Ivry, when the Castle of Mars Gate (stronghold of the archbishops) was razed to the ground. Henceforth the archbishops played no political part, and Richelieu put an end to strife by turning the _Guises_ out of the archi-episcopal see.

In the 17th and 18th centuries the town lived in peace, with alternations of misery and suffering (caused by plague or famine) and commercial and industrial prosperity. It was at Rheims that the first French newspaper, the "Gazette de France," printed by Godard in 1694, appeared.

During the Revolution, Rheims received the new ideas with enthusiasm. It furnished a great number of volunteers to withstand the invasion, and on August 14th, 1792, the Legislative Assembly proclaimed that the city "_had deserved well of the country_."

Under the Restoration its industry developed. In August, 1830, the people, who were favourably to the Revolution of July, overturned the cross of the "_Calvaire de la Mission_," erected in 1821 by the ultra-Catholic party, and in its place set up a funeral urn with the inscription, "To the brave men who died for liberty on the 27th, 28th and 29th days of July, 1830." The population accepted the monarchy of July, but without enthusiasm.

The Second Empire witnessed a remarkable development of business activity which, after the momentary stoppage caused by the War of 1870 and the Prussian occupation (_see military section_), made of Rheims, at the end of the 19th century, one of the great commercial and industrial cities of France. The population increased from about 30,000 (in 1792) to 59,000 (in 1865) and to more than 115,000 in 1912.

When the War of 1914 broke out, the rich and ancient city was still as _La Fontaine_ had described it:

"_No town is dearer to me than Rheims,
The Honour and Glory of our France._"

=MILITARY HISTORY=

If the military and commercial situation of Rheims destined it, from early times, to be a great city, it also exposed it to the greed of ambitious foreigners, and opened the road to invasion.

During the Hundred Years' War the city was fiercely disputed. On December 4th, 1359, Edward III. of England besieged it. On January 11th, 1360, a sortie of the troops and burghers, under Remi Grammaire, compelled him to raise the siege, in recognition of which feat of arms Charles V. permitted the "_fleur-de-lys_" (emblem of the Royal House of France) to be emblazoned on the City's coat of arms. Since then the Shield of Rheims has been: In chief France ancient, in base argent Two, laurel branches in Saltire vert. In 1420 the English were more successful and entered Rheims, whose gates were opened to them by Philippe-le-Bon, Duke of Burgundy. Nine years later (July 16th, 1429) the Dauphin of France and Joan-of-Arc entered the town, then finally delivered, by the Dieu-Lumiere Gate (formerly the Gate of St. Nicaise).

During the invasion of 1814, Marshal Marmont's troops retook Rheims on March 13th, after sharp street fighting, and Napoleon entered the city the same night.

In 1870, after the investment of Metz, Rheims witnessed the departure of the army formed by MacMahon at Chalons-sur-Marne, for the relief of Marshal Bazaine. A few days later (September 4th) the Prussian troops entered the city at 3 o'clock in the afternoon by three different gates. On the 6th, the King of Prussia, accompanied by Bismarck and Von Moltke, made an imposing entry, and resided for some time at the archi-episcopal palace, in the apartments reserved for the Kings of France at the time of their consecration. Rheims was held to ransom, and a number of citizens shot for protesting against the German yoke, chief among whom was the Abbe Miroy, Cure of Cuchery, whose tomb (the work of the sculptor Saint Marceaux) is in the northern cemetery. Others were carried away prisoners to Germany. The Prussian troops evacuated the town on November 20th, 1872.

=The Invasion of 1914=

(_See map, p. 11._)

Forty-four years later to a day (September 4, 1914), German advance troops again entered Rheims, as General Joffre's plans had not provided for defending the city. However, the Army detachments placed under the command of General Foch on August 29, and wedged in between the 4th and 5th Armies, stayed the German advance for a few days. On August 30 the 42nd Division from the East, detrained at Rheims and took up positions at Sault-Saint-Remy and Saint-Loup-en-Champagne on August 31, to the left of the 9th and 11th Corps.

On September 1, General Foch resisted on the river Retourne but, in the evening, withdrew to the river Suippe, in conformity with the general orders. On the 2nd the town was still protected by the 10th Corps (elements of which occupied the Fort of St. Thierry), by the 42nd Division near Brimont and to the north of the Aviation ground, and by the 9th and 11th Corps to the east. On the 3rd, the French retreat towards the Marne became more rapid, and Rheims was abandoned. On September 5, Prince August Wilhelm of Prussia entered the town and took up his quarters at the Grand Hotel. The Germans at once requisitioned 50 tons of meat, 20 tons of vegetables, 100 tons of bread, 50 tons of oats, 15,000 gallons of petrol, besides straw and hay, and insisted on the immediate payment of a million francs as a guarantee that their requirements would be met.

This sum was paid in the course of the afternoon, under threats by the enemy. From the 6th onwards the German soldiers gave themselves up to plundering. The tobacco warehouse at 21 Rue Payen was ransacked, and more than 700,000 francs worth of cigars and tobacco stolen. On the following days pillaging, especially of the food-shops, continued. On the 9th, the Kommandantur requisitioned civilians to bury the dead in the Rethel, Epernay and Montmirail districts. On the 11th, the Crown Prince arrived and took up his quarters at the Grand Hotel, where he was joined by Prince Henry of Prussia, brother of the Kaiser. On the morning of the 12th, the Germans, alarmed at the approach of the victorious French troops from the Marne, arrested the Mayor (Dr. Langlet), Mgr. Neveux, coadjutor of Rheims, and the Abbe Camus. They then drew up a list of a hundred hostages and threatened to hang them at the first attempt at disorder. They also threatened to burn the city, wholly or partially, and to hang the inhabitants, if any of them molested the German soldiers. All that day the Germans, instead of organising defences, left the town in haste, after first pillaging it. In the afternoon the Crown Prince left the Grand Hotel with his suite. At 5 p.m., after setting fire to the forage stores, the Kommandantur left Rheims by the Rethel road in drenching rain, followed by the hundred hostages, who were only released at the level-crossing at Witry-les-Reims. When the latter returned to Rheims, a patrol of French mounted Chasseurs had already entered the town by the suburb of St. Anne. The next morning, at about 6 o'clock, the French troops, with the 6th mounted Chasseurs at their head, entered Rheims by the Rue de Vesle. At 1 p.m. General Franchet d'Esperey, commanding the French 5th Army, entered the city.

=The Battles for Rheims, 1914-1918=

Although evacuated by the Germans, Rheims had yet to remain for nearly four years under enemy fire. With equal obstinacy the adversaries disputed the town, the French seeking to disengage it and the Germans to recapture it.

On September 12, on the approach of the victorious French Army from the Marne, the Germans entrenched themselves to the south-west of the town, and established a line of resistance passing through Thillois, Ormes, Bezannes and Villers-aux-Noeuds.

In spite of the very unfavourable weather, the 3rd Corps (Gen. Hache) vigorously engaged the enemy at Thillois, and forced them to abandon the position in the evening. The 1st Corps (Gen. Deligny), on the right, had orders to push forward advance-guards into Rheims, but as a matter of fact they reached the suburb of Vesle. The 10th Corps (Gen. Defforges) attacked at Puisieulx and forced the enemy across the Vesle.

On the 13th, the left of the 3rd Corps arrived in front of Courcy and Brimont, where the Germans were strongly entrenched. A desperate battle took place, with the result that Courcy was taken before noon. Loivre likewise fell into the hands of the French, but the passage of the Aisne Canal was fiercely disputed. The attack on Brimont failed, in spite of the great valour of the troops, who sustained heavy losses. Meanwhile, the 1st Corps crossed Rheims, with orders to debouch at Betheny. Just outside the town they were met with violent artillery fire, which, however, did not completely check their advance. La Neuvillette, Pierquin Farm and Betheny were occupied, and the 1st Corps linked up on its left with the 3rd Corps, on the outskirts of Soulain Woods. The advance continued during the night, and Modelin Farm was reached by advance-guards. General Deligny took up his headquarters in the suburb of Vesle. The 10th Corps crossed the Vesle, engaged the enemy at St. Leonard and reached the railway.

On the 14th, the fighting greatly increased in violence. The 3rd Corps, in spite of repeated efforts, was unable to advance; on the left it failed to drive the enemy from the St. Marie Farm, while on the right it was held up before Brimont. The 1st Corps was likewise checked; the 1st Division (Gen. Gallet) attempted unsuccessfully to support General Hache in his attack on Brimont. The 10th Corps, although strongly engaged towards the Fort of La Pompelle, made but little progress. Farther away, on the right, the battle extended along the front of the 9th Army.

On the 15th, at 5.30 a.m., the 5th Army resumed a general offensive. Fierce fighting took place at St. Marie Farm, to the left of the 3rd Corps, and also further north, near Hill 100. Despite heavy sacrifices, however, the enemy held their positions; but, on the right, the 36th Infantry Regiment captured the Chateau of Brimont at day-break. General Deligny, less fortunate, was driven out of Soulains Woods, but stood firm at the Champ-de-Courses and Betheny. The 10th Corps continued to advance slowly, and at certain points reached the high-road to Suippes.

On the 16th, the 3rd Corps attacked Brimont again, but failed. At the chateau the situation became more and more critical, by reason of the retreat of the 1st Corps on the previous day. This Corps had again to face a powerful enemy counter-offensive, which, however, failed to drive it from the Modelin Farm and the "Cavaliers de Courcy."

On the 17th, the Germans counter-attacked all along the line. In the afternoon the 3rd Corps, which stood firm at Godat Farm and Loivre, was elsewhere compelled to cross to the west bank of the canal and fall back on Courcy.

After a heroic defence the isolated garrison of Brimont Castle, weakened by heavy losses, surrendered during the night, after having spent all its ammunition. The 1st Corps, the greater part of which had left for the region of Berry-au-Bac, held its positions with its last available units. The 10th Corps extended its front westwards to Betheny, while one of its regiments, the 2nd Infantry, occupied La Pompelle Fort.

On the 18th, the enemy increased their efforts against the front held by the 3rd Corps and the reserve units further west. Loivre, which had so far resisted, fell. The French withdrew to the west of the road to Laon. The situation was considered critical at this point of the front. The 10th Corps, which had been withdrawn from the east of Rheims, in favour of another sector, was stopped on the way and sent for a few days in support of the 3rd Corps.

On the 19th, one of its brigades counter-attacked Courcy Mill. On the other side, the Moroccan Division (Gen. Humbert), which had relieved the 10th Corps, continued to hold La Pompelle Fort.

Gradually the front became fixed. Desperate, indecisive fighting still took place, but finally the front stabilised on the line extending from the foot of the Berru and Nogent-l'Abbesse Hills, along the road from Rheims to Suippes, on the east, and along the western bank of the Aisne Canal on the north.

=The French Offensive of April, 1917=

The French offensive, planned by the then Commander-in-Chief, General Nivelle, and launched in April, between Soissons and Auberive, aimed at piercing the German front and disengaging Rheims.

North-west of Rheims was the 5th Army (Gen. Mazel), of which the 38th Corps (Gen. de Mondesir) held the immediate approaches to the town, followed by the 7th Corps (Gen. de Bazelaire), 32nd Corps (Gen. Passaga) astride the Aisne, and, extending beyond Craonne, the 5th Corps (Gen. de Boissoudy) and the 1st Corps (Gen. Muteau).

East of Rheims the 4th Army (Gen. Anthoine) was engaged only during the second stage of the battle.

At 6 a.m. on the 16th, in drenching rain, the 5th Army attacked all along the front, in conjunction on the left with the 6th Army (Gen. Mangin), which undertook to storm the Chemin-des-Dames. The enemy was expecting the attack, and had concentrated very large forces and powerful artillery. Despite their bravery, the French were unable to break through.

In the Rheims sector, the 32nd Corps advanced three kilometers to the north of the Aisne. The 7th Corps crossed the canal at Loivre and captured Bermericourt in the morning, but was forced to give up part of the conquered ground in the afternoon, in consequence of a powerful German counter-attack. In front of Brimont a brigade of the 38th Corps failed to pierce the enemy's positions.

On the 17th, while the army of General Mazel resisted a violent enemy counter-attack, General Anthoine attacked from the east of Rheims to Auberive with the 8th Corps (Gen. Hely d'Oissel), 17th Corps (Gen. J. B. Dumas), 12th Corps (Gen. Nourrisson). At 4.45 a.m., despite violent squalls of rain and snow, the French infantry rushed forward and carried the first German lines along a front of eleven kilometers. The 34th Division (Gen. de Lobit) carried the Mont Cornillet and Mont Blond hills, which the enemy attempted in vain to recapture.

On April 18 and 19, and May 4 and 5, the fighting was spasmodic and finally ceased. On the whole, the French offensive failed, and Rheims continued to remain under enemy gun-fire.

On the morning of May 27, 1918, the Germans commenced a powerful offensive between Vauxaillon (on the Chemin-des-Dames) and the Fort of Brimont. At the beginning of the attack, the French line passed through Betheny and along the Aisne-Marne Canal. In the evening, after the loss of the Chemin-des-Dames and the Aisne Canal, Rheims was no longer protected on the north-west, except by the St. Thierry Heights, which were soon turned. The Germans crossed the Vesle at several points, principally at Bazoches and Fismes, and advanced as far as Muizon.

On May 29, the French line passed through La Neuvillette, Chalons-sur-Vesle, Muizon and Rosnay. On the 30th, it extended from Perquin Farm to Mery-Premecy, via Champigny. On the 31st, Tinqueux and Vrigny fell.

Further to the south the Germans advanced along the valley of the Ardre towards the Chateau-Thierry--Epernay--Chalons railway, threatening Epernay (_see the Michelin Guide: "The Second Battle of the Marne"_).

However, Rheims still held out. On June 1, the Germans attacked simultaneously, without success, to the south-east of the town (between Pommery Park and La Pompelle Fort), and on the west and south-west (between La Haubette and Ormes), while the French recaptured Vrigny. On three separate occasions--in the evening of the 1st, and on June 9 and 18, the enemy's powerful and costly efforts to recapture this important position broke down. On the 18th, they delivered a fresh general attack from Vrigny to La Pompelle, gaining a footing in the Northern Cemetery of Rheims and in the north-eastern outskirts of Sillery, but everywhere else they were repulsed. On the 23rd and 29th, they rushed Bligny Hill, held by the Italians, only to lose it again shortly afterwards. Once again, Rheims had eluded the enemy's grasp.

=July 15 to August 9, 1918=

At dawn, on July 15, the Germans began a new offensive from Chateau-Thierry to La Main de Massiges. It was Ludendorf's much vaunted "Friedensturm" (peace-battle), and was expected by him to prove irresistible and decisive. Its purpose was to complete the encirclement of Rheims, carry the hills surrounding the town, crush the French 4th Army, and reach Chalons-sur-Marne (_see the Michelin Guide: "Champagne and Argonne"_). However, this time, there was no surprise, and the Allies held out victoriously.

To the west, between Dormans and Rheims, Franco-Italian forces held their ground on the Chatillon-sur-Marne--Cuchery--Marfaux--Bouilly line. To the east, from La Pompelle to the Argonne, the army of General Gouraud, after voluntarily abandoning its first line previous to the enemy's attack, checked and decimated the armies of Von Einem and Von Mudra, on its second or battle-line. On July 16, 17 and 18, the enemy, now exhausted and incapable of resuming their general attack, attempted local attempts only, especially near Beaumont-sur-Vesle, to the north of Prosnes, and in the region of Trigny and Pourcy, to the west, all of which were repulsed. Once more Rheims escaped, and was destined from now on, to be gradually freed from the enemy's grasp. The French counter-offensive began on July 18, on the Aisne (_see the Michelin Guide: "The Second Battle of the Marne"_), extending shortly afterwards to the west of Rheims. On the 22nd, the army of General Berthelot captured St. Euphraise and Bouilly, and on the 23rd reached a point between Vrigny and the Ardre. A number of German counter-attacks on July 24, 25 and 30 and August 1 failed to check its advance. On August 2, Gueux and Thillois were recaptured. On the 4th, the Vesle was reached to the east of Fismes, and the latter occupied, while a small force crossed to the north bank of the river. On the 7th, after fierce fighting, in which the French and Americans advanced foot by foot, the Vesle was crossed to the east of Bazoches and Braine. On the 9th, Fismette was taken.

=September 26 to November 11, 1918=

The disengaging of Rheims, which had begun slowly, was now rapidly accomplished. Two French offensives completely effected it in a few days--that of September 26 (_see the Michelin Guide: "Champagne and Argonne"_), under General Gouraud, and that of September 30, first by General Berthelot and then by General Guillaumat. The first of these offensives, to the east, brought about the fall of the Moronvilliers Heights, after outflanking them; the second, to the west, captured the Saint-Thierry Heights, the French troops crossing the Aisne-Marne Canal from Le Godat to La Neuvillette. This double manoeuvre forced the Germans, whose communications were threatened, to beat a hasty retreat on October 5 along a twenty-seven mile front. An important part of the old German front of 1914, and one of the most fiercely disputed, collapsed suddenly. The formidable forts of Brimont and Nogent-l'Abbesse, which had held Rheims under their guns for four years, fell. This time the deliverance of Rheims was complete and final.

The dotted lines show the Allied advance at the date indicated in the middle of each zone conquered. The line of departure is that of July 18 (18/7). On the evening of Oct. 6 (6/10)--the upper thick dotted line--the town was completely disengaged. The Allied advance has the appearance of a fan spreading out west of Rheims until Oct. 5 (5/10), when the Germans were forced to make a deep retreat.]

=The Destruction of Rheims=

Being unable to capture Rheims, the Germans reduced it to ruins by bombardment. For four years (September 4, 1914, to October 5, 1918) they rained explosive and incendiary shells on it, almost without intermission.

On September 3, 1914, at about 11 a.m., a German aeroplane dropped bombs on the town. A few of the inhabitants left, as the enemy approached, but the majority remained. A lady-teacher, sixty years of age, Mlle. Fouriaux (afterwards decorated with the Legion d'Honneur), who had charge of Hospital No. 101 (formerly a high-school for girls), transferred the wounded to Epernay and then returned on foot to Rheims.

On September 4, at 9.30 a.m., when the enemy advance-guards were already in the town, and a German officer was making requisitions at the Town Hall, the bombardment began again. From 9.30 to 10.15 a.m., 176 large shells fell into the town, three of which tore open the great gallery of modern paintings in the Museum. Forty-nine civilians were killed and 130 wounded, several of them mortally.

The Germans, hard pressed by the French, evacuated Rheims on September 12. Two days later, at 9 a.m., they bombarded the town. Their fire was especially directed against the headquarters of General Franchet d'Esperey, near the Town Hall. On the following days, firing was resumed at the same hour. On the 17th, the first fires broke out. Many civilians were killed or wounded. The vicinity of the Cathedral, which was believed to be specially aimed at, was among the places that suffered most. To protect the Cathedral, which the Germans had fitted up on the 12th for the reception of their wounded, some seventy to eighty German wounded were accommodated on straw in the nave. The Red Cross flag was displayed on each tower, and notice given to the enemy.

On the 18th, the bombardment began again at 8.15 a.m. In addition to the Sub-Prefecture, which was almost entirely destroyed, as were also many important factories, the Cathedral, in spite of the Red Cross flag, was struck by 8-in. shells, which damaged the outside sculptures of the lower windows of the main transept, smashing the 13th and 14th century stained-glass. Splinters of stone killed a French gendarme and two wounded Germans in the lower part of the south nave.

On the 19th, the bombardment was intensified. The Town Hall, Museum, hospitals (including that of the Girls' High School), the south side of the Cathedral and the Archbishop's Palace were all hit. Towards noon, incendiary shells were rained on the centre of the town.

At about 4 p.m., a shell fired the wooden scaffolding round the north-west tower which had been under repair since 1913. The fire spread quickly to the roof, the molten lead from which set fire to the straw in the nave.

In spite of a rescue party, who risked their lives in getting out the wounded, a dozen of the German wounded perished in the flames. The conflagration spread to the Archbishop's Palace, from which it was impossible to remove the tapestries or the pre-historic Roman and Gothic collections. The Protestant Church, the Offices of the Controller of silk and woollen cloths, and the Colbert barracks along the eastern boulevards were burnt. Everywhere new centres caught fire, and nearly thirty-five acres of buildings were destroyed. On the 20th, the bombardment continued with equal violence, then after a respite of two days began again. Of the Place Royale and the Rue Colbert nothing remained but a heap of ruins.

On November 1 the number of civilians killed by shell fire had increased to 282.

From September 14, 1914, to the beginning of June, 1915, the town never remained more than four days without being shelled. Up to the end of November, 1914, the shells rarely went beyond the Cathedral and the theatre, falling mostly in the suburbs of Ceres and Laon. On November 22, the suburb of Paris was struck, and from that time onwards there was no security for the inhabitants in any quarter of the city.

As it would take too long to recount all the bombardments, only the most terrible ones are here mentioned. On November 26, 1914, the German guns fired all day, one shell alone killing twenty-three patients in the Hospital for Incurables. On the night of February 21 and on February 22, 1915, more than 1,500 shells fell in the town, killing twenty civilians, setting on fire a score of houses and piercing the vaulting of the Cathedral.

On March 8, terrifying fires broke out again. On April 29 and July 20 more than 500 shells, many of them incendiary, were counted. In April, 1916, more than 1,200 projectiles struck the different quarters of the town in one day. On August 13, whilst the town was being bombarded, seven German aeroplanes dropped incendiary bombs, which burnt the Hotel Dieu Hospital. On October 25, the Germans fired more than 600 shells into Rheims and more than 1,000 on the 27th.

On April 1, 1917, more than 2,800 shells fell in the town, and on the 4th, 2,121. According to the Official Communique, on the night of the 5th and on Good Friday, the number of shells was 7,500. Easter-Day was likewise terrible. On April 15, 19 and 24 the town received large numbers of 8-in., 12-in. and 15-in. shells. On May 3 the Town Hall and 108 houses were burnt. On the 4th the fires spread to fifteen neighbouring streets.

From April 8 to the 15th the enemy rained incendiary shells on the town without respite, and completed their work of destruction, in the course of the afternoon of the 21st, by burning the centre of the town. Hardly anybody was left in the latter, except the firemen, who, despite their prodigious activity and valour, were unable to cope with the flames.

Whole streets, often the finest, were burnt down, more than 700 houses being destroyed.

When, on October 5, the Germans retreated, the havoc caused by this continual bombardment was incalculable. Of the town's 14,000 houses, only about sixty were immediately habitable when the people came back.

In addition to the material losses, there were, unfortunately, numerous irreparable artistic and archaeological losses.

=Life in Bombarded Rheims=

Although there were short respites, it may be said that for four years Rheims led the life of a besieged town, under the fire of the German guns and howitzers. The enemy increased the calibre of their shells and varied their modes of bombardment, sometimes firing for a few hours, sometimes all day long at the rate of one shell every three minutes, or again at night. Sometimes 3-in. shells would be used, at others "Jack Johnsons" of 8-in., 12-in. and 15-in. calibre; sometimes all four at the same time. Both explosive and incendiary shells were used, while aeroplane bombs, darts and asphyxiating gas were resorted to occasionally. Public holidays were the occasion of the fiercest bombardments, in the hope of increasing the number of victims. For instance, the shelling was particularly murderous on All Saints' Day of 1914, when the eastern and southern cemeteries (generally crowded on this day) were especially aimed at. Easter Monday of 1916 and Good Friday of 1917 were similarly favoured.

After each check--at Verdun, in Champagne, on the Somme or wherever it might be--the Germans revenged themselves on Rheims. In this way the Cathedral was fired by incendiary shells after the defeat on the Marne in 1914. The awful fires of February 22 and March 8, 1915, were the German reply to their set-backs in Champagne and Argonne. The Hotel Dieu hospital was burnt down in August, 1916, the day after the Franco-British attack on the Somme. The Town Hall was reduced to ashes on May 3, 1917, after the French offensive on the Champagne hills. For the same reason the bombardments reached their maximum of intensity in April and May, 1918, _i.e._ after the enemy had lost all hope of crushing the Allies and taking Paris.

At the beginning of the siege the population took refuge in the south-western districts, which were not as yet bombarded, but on and after November 22, 1914, when the German shells reached the suburb of Paris, a large number of the inhabitants left the town.

In February, 1915, the exodus began again, but at the end of May in that year there were still some 26,000 people in the town. In February, 1917, after twenty-eight months of bombardment, there remained 17,100 people, or 100,000 fewer than in 1914. At the beginning of April in that year, the mayor and later the sub-prefect, requested all those who were not prevented by their duties to leave the town.

This invitation not having the desired effect, the military authorities, in view of the increased intensity of the bombardment and the imminence of the French offensive, announced that they could not guarantee food supplies for the town, and decided that the civil population must leave not later than April 10. The evacuation was effected by carts and motor-vehicles to Epernay, where trains awaited the people.

A part of the inhabitants returned to Rheims after the French offensive of April-May, but for a few months only, as, in February, 1918, the coming German offensive compelled the civil population again to leave the town.

During the thirty-one months, during which a considerable portion of the population persisted in staying in Rheims (September, 1914, to April, 1917), life and work went on in the bombarded city, the people adapting themselves courageously to their precarious existence and to the danger. They were supplied with helmets and gas masks, like the soldiers. Shell and bomb-proof shelters were organised, and the cellars, with which the city abounds, became the people's ordinary dwellings. The Town Council, with the exception of a few members who left on the approach of the enemy, remained at the Town Hall until it was destroyed, then installed themselves in a cellar, under the constant chairmanship of the Mayor, Dr. Langlet. The services rendered by the latter during these trying times were such that the French Premier decorated him personally in November, 1914, with the _Croix de la Legion d'Honneur_. The General Post Office had to change its quarters several times; but until the complete evacuation of the town the postmen went their rounds regularly.

The Courts of Justice were set up in the cellars of the Palais-de-Justice.

The archbishop, Mgr. Lucon, was absent from Rheims in 1914, being retained in Rome by the Council. As soon as the latter was ended, he returned to Rheims and thereafter, like his coadjutor, Mgr. Neveux, and the unmobilized clergy, he remained at his post until the evacuation of April, 1917. The Cathedral architect, M. Sainsaulieu, who, like Mgr. Lucon, has been made a Chevalier de la Legion d'Honneur, remained constantly at his post, repairing from day to day, as well as might be, the damage caused to the Cathedral, and saving the art treasures spared by the German shells.

The firemen, reinforced in March, 1915, by thirty-two of their comrades from Paris, devoted themselves, at the risk of their lives, to fighting the flames caused by the bombardments. Unfortunately, their courage and devotion were often unequal to their task. For instance, twenty-two separate fires occurred on the night of February 22, 1915. Their task was rendered still more difficult by the fact that the Germans often fired on the burning buildings to drive off the men who were trying to save them.

On July 6, 1917, the President of the French Republic fittingly acknowledged the magnificent bravery of the firemen by personally decorating their flag with the Croix de la Legion d'Honneur. At the same time he conferred this dignity on the city (_see p. 2_).

After remaining closed for several weeks, the schools re-opened. Until then, the children had been too much in the streets looking for aluminium fuses of shells, out of which they made rings, or for scraps of stained-glass from the broken windows of the Cathedral. The first school, called the "Maunoury" school, was installed on December 7, 1914, in a wine cellar of the firm Pommery, Boulevard Henri-Vasnier, near the Rond-Point St. Nicaise. On January 22, 1915, the "Joffre" school was opened in the cellars of Messrs. Mumm, 24 Rue du Champ-de-Mars. Then came the "Albert I." school, in the cellars of Messrs. Krug, 5 Rue Coquebert, and the "Dubail" school in those of Messrs. Champion, Place St. Nicaise. In addition to the underground schools, open-air classes were conducted. The underground schools, in which the teaching staff, exclusively voluntary, lived permanently, together with the school-children and their relatives, were situated in the most exposed and frequently bombarded districts. The "Dubail" school was struck three times: on March 6, 1915 (by an 8-in. shell), and on March 25 and October 25, 1916. Luckily there were no victims.

The schools were quite close to the enemy lines, the distance varying from about two-thirds of a mile to a mile and a half.

In 1915 and 1916, the examinations for the "Elementary School Certificate" took place in July, as usual. In 1915, the ceremony of the Annual Prize Distribution, which had not taken place at Rheims for ten years, was restored, the book-prizes for the pupils coming from every corner of France.

The victualling of the town, thanks to the co-operation between the Municipal and Military Authorities, was effected with regularity. There was never any shortage of bread. The butchers' and grocers' shops remained open. The milk-women and hawkers donned their helmets and continued to push their carts through the streets. The market-women remained at their stalls. The nuns of St. Vincent-de-Paul, whose convent had been largely destroyed, ensured the service of cheap meals, organised by the Municipality for the poor. The undaunted inhabitants had their daily paper ("_L'Eclaireur de l'Est_"), edited by M. Dramas, a courageous journalist, whose printing-house was early wrecked by shell-fire, but who continued almost single-handed to issue his paper.

A VISIT TO RHEIMS

(_pp. 28 to 120_)

=THE CATHEDRAL= (_pp. 28 to 60_)

=FIRST ITINERARY= (_pp. 61 to 94_)

=The Archi-episcopal Palace, Museum, Church of St. Jacques, Promenades, Town Hall, Place Royale, Musicians' House, Mars Gate, Faubourg Ceres, Church of St. Andre, Palais-de-Justice, etc.=

=SECOND ITINERARY= (_pp. 95 to 120_)

=The Lycee, Abbey of St. Pierre-les-Dames, Rue Barbatre, Church of St. Maurice, Church of St. Remi, Hotel-Dieu Hospital, etc.=

=The Cathedral=

The Cathedral of Rheims, which Charles VIII. declared to be "pre-eminent among all the churches of the kingdom," and which a local poet in the reign of Louis XIII. extolled above the seven wonders of the world, is one of the most beautiful Gothic churches extant.

Few edifices combine such grandeur, simplicity and grace; still fewer, its characteristic unity and symmetry.

The work of at least four architects, the building operations extended over two centuries, yet it has retained rare unity both of plan and style. The whole is so harmonious as to give the impression of being the effort of a single master-mind.

=Historical Account=

The Cathedral stands on the site of former churches, successively erected between the 5th and 13th centuries. On the night of May 6, 1210, a terrible fire destroyed the then existing edifice, together with a portion of the city.

Exactly one year later, Archbishop Aubri de Humbert laid the first stone of a new edifice, which was destined to become the Cathedral of to-day.

Begun in 1211, the building went on without pause for twenty years, after which, there was a slackening, followed by a vigorous resumption in 1299. Another pause occurred during the Hundred Years' War. The Cathedral, less the tower spires provided for in the plans, was finished in 1428. The spires were not yet built when the great fire of July 24th, 1481, entirely destroyed the roof of the Cathedral, further deferring their construction, which was subsequently abandoned.

The funds for this colossal work were furnished partly by the clergy and the people, partly by Papal Indulgences granted to donors, and by collections in Christian lands, especially in the ecclesiastical province of Rheims. The wonderful plans of the Cathedral were long believed to be the work of _Robert de Coucy_, whereas the original ones were in fact drawn by _Jean d'Orbais_, who began their execution between 1211 and 1231. His work was continued with wonderful fidelity by _Jean-le-Loup_, from 1231-1247; by _Gaucher of Rheims_ in 1247-1255, _Bernard of Soissons_ from 1255 to 1290, _Robert de Coucy_ until 1311, and afterwards by _Maitre Colard_, _Gilles le Macon_, _Jean de Dijon_ and _Colard de Givry_ in the course of the 14th and 15th centuries.

In the 17th and 18th centuries only repairs rendered necessary by the wear of the stone were effected. In the 19th century, beginning in 1845, important restorations, principally by Viollet-le-Duc, were carried out with regularity.

The Cathedral's approximate measurements are 480 feet long (it is the longest church in France), and 160 feet wide at the intersection of the transept. The vaulting, less lofty than that at Beauvais (156 feet) and Amiens (143 feet), is 123 feet in height. The towers are six in number (as in the cathedral at Laon), of which the four situated at the extremities of the transept have never had more than one storey. The principal towers are about 266 feet in height, or about 60 feet higher than those of Notre-Dame in Paris.

The plan of the Cathedral is in shape a Latin cross, with radiating chapels. It is built entirely of stone from the neighbourhood of Rheims. Forty pillars support the vaults, which are further sustained by fifty buttresses. Three great doorways and eight secondary doors give access to the interior, which is lighted by a hundred windows and rose-windows; 2,303 figures of all sizes decorate the exterior and interior.

=The Cathedral During the War=

In revenging themselves on Rheims for their disappointments and failures, the Germans seem to have been particularly determined to destroy the building which is at once one of the most precious artistic treasures of France and one of the most ancient evidences of her history. In 1814 the then Allies bombarded Rheims but respected the Cathedral. It is true that there were Germans who found fault with this respectful forbearance. One of them, _Johann Joseph Goeres_, author of a voluminous work entitled "_Christian Mysticism_," dared to write in April, 1814: "_Destroy, reduce to ashes, this Rheims basilica, where Chlodoric was consecrated, and where was born that empire of the Franks, those turncoat brothers of the noble Germans; burn the Cathedral._" In the course of the recent war the Germans followed the vindictive advice of Goeres, although, less frank than he, they did not dare, in face of the indignation of Christendom and of the whole world, boast of their vandalism.

By way of excuse they alleged sometimes errors in firing, sometimes that the French had established a battery of artillery near the Cathedral and an observation-post in one of the towers (a projector was installed on the Cathedral, on September 13, 1914, _i.e._ the day that the French re-entered Rheims, and it remained there only one night).

On November 9, 1914, General Rouquerol declared to the French Government, who had demanded an enquiry, that the nearest battery to the Cathedral was at that time more than 1,200 yards away; that on the day (September 19) the Cathedral was set on fire by the German shells, the nearest French batteries were still quite close to the spot occupied by the above-mentioned battery, whose position the French Premier verified personally. The General concluded that the German artillery could not have made an error of 1,200 yards in firing, but that they had deliberately aimed at the Cathedral.

The Cathedral, though terribly shattered, is still standing. The description of the edifice (pp. 33 to 60) gives particulars of the damage and destructions which occurred principally in September, 1914, April, 1917, and July, 1918.