Chapter II: Part 2

Beaver dams are abundant in the park. Many typical examples can be seen in Horseshoe Park, Moraine Park, Glacier Basin, and Hidden Valley, and along the Colorado River. Nearly all of the park trails pass beaver workings. The dams are built of various materials in this region, but most commonly of mud, parts of aspens, and debris. They are started from the upstream side--usually on shallow creeks--and as the water level rises so does the dam. The beaver uses its front paws almost as hands. The load of mud or sticks sometimes is carried by being pressed against the chest as the animal walks on its hind feet to the top of the structure it is building. The dam is made to create a stabilized water level. This is essential for protection of the beaver's island den--a lodge made of sticks and mud. The beaver house starts as a solid heap of debris, but the animal chews and digs out a couple of underwater tunnels, as well as one or more dome-shaped rooms with the floor a few inches above water level. In this dry retreat the beaver rests, sleeps, and rears its family. Few natural enemies can pursue it through the underwater entrances. Its food is chiefly aspen bark and twigs. A winter supply is stored under water during late summer.

Because of its energy, skill, and persistence, the beaver has become a symbol of industriousness. It is also often credited with more intelligence than it probably possesses. Its apparent industry and resourcefulness are due more likely to inherited instincts than to reasoning. At any rate, this large rodent is surely one of the most interesting animals in the park.

The MUSKRAT is frequently active in daylight hours. It lives in the same environment as the beaver, but in the park has a much more limited distribution and is confined to lower elevations. It builds lodges, too; they are much smaller than those of the beaver, and are largely composed of mud and plant material. The lodge serves as a secondary food source in the winter, and many muskrat houses are practically eaten away by spring. Unlike the beaver, a strict vegetarian, the muskrat eats fish, insects, and any birds it can catch, as well as plant food. This animal has not acquired the ability to build dams, but does make rafts of sticks and twigs. When seen closely, a muskrat is easily distinguished from a beaver, for it is smaller and has a slender, vertically flattened tail, quite unlike that of the beaver.

Probably everyone recognizes the PORCUPINE. It is a large, short-legged rodent, rather clumsy of behavior, and usually seen either sleeping or leisurely chewing the bark of a tree. The porcupine survives, despite its sluggish behavior, because of the protection afforded by some 30,000 quills in its pelage. Although it cannot "throw" these quills, they are very loosely attached, and when the tail is vigorously thrashed about it is inevitable that some of the quills become detached and fall away. The unlucky recipient of such a slap of the tail will be convinced that the quills were thrown, although the effective embedding of quills is done by direct contact.

The MOUNTAIN COTTONTAIL is often seen in the lower forests. Despite heavy predation by many natural enemies, the cottontail manages to maintain itself because of its high birth rate. One mother may produce a total of 25 young in the 4 or 5 litters born during the year. It is fairly small, grayish-brown in color, with rather short ears and a conspicuous cottony tail resembling a powder puff. It lives in underground burrows and retains the same color winter and summer.

The SNOWSHOE HARE nests on the surface of the ground. Its fur changes from grayish-brown in summer to white in winter. A denizen of the spruce-fir and lodgepole pine forests and of the tundra, it hops about the snow on its huge, furry, "snowshoe" feet, apparently finding the severe winters of the high country no great hardship. It is not common in the park, and therefore is not often seen.

Motorists on the highest parts of the Trail Ridge Road often see the PIKA, which looks like a small, grayish guinea pig but is really a close relative of the rabbit. It is found in the rock slides and talus piles in the high country mostly above treeline, and is seldom seen below 9,000 feet. Despite the subzero temperature of the tundra belt, it does not hibernate. Its habit of storing little bundles of mountain grasses and other alpine plants has given it the nickname of "alpine haymaker"; it is also sometimes called "cony"--a name better reserved for an unrelated Old World mammal. Look for the pika at Rock Cut on Trail Ridge Road, it seems to have favorite sunning spots from which it greets the traveler with shrill shrieks.

Coldblooded Vertebrates

Many animals do not possess an adequate mechanism for maintenance of constant body heat. Some of these, taking advantage of the slowness with which water changes temperature, live mostly in an aquatic environment. Few can endure the cold winters of high altitudes.

Unlike other animals in National Parks, fish may be taken, under regulations designed to conserve the resource. As long as you have a State fishing license, you may exercise this privilege in Rocky Mountain National Park. The season and catch limits vary from year to year; you are urged to ask a park ranger about current regulations.

The original trout in the park is the BLACK-SPOTTED, or CUTTHROAT, TROUT. Once found only in the northern Rockies, it has been transplanted widely. It has numerous subspecies and color variations, but here it is usually an olive-green on back and upper sides, shading into a yellowish cast on lower sides. The lower surface becomes red at spawning time. The body and fins are black-spotted. The red streak on each side of the lower jaw has given it the name "cutthroat." Its principal foods are insects and small aquatic animals. Spawning takes place in midsummer in the high country.

The BROOK TROUT, originally native east of the Mississippi, was introduced into this park, where it has thrived and maintains itself through natural reproduction in many lakes and streams. It is olive-green to gray, with a sprinkling of red and gray spots on the sides. The front borders of the lower fins and the lower borders of the tail are white. Its food includes insects, worms, small minnows, and crustaceans. It spawns in autumn; the female deposits the eggs in a depression she scoops out in the streambed. After the eggs are fertilized, she covers them with gravel and leaves them to hatch unattended.

The RAINBOW TROUT is another nonnative trout of the park waters. Its original range was on the Pacific slope of the Sierras and the Cascades, but it has been transplanted widely. It is bluish-olive above the lateral line, changing to silvery-green on the sides. Its name is derived from a broad, reddish stripe on the sides. It eats insects, worms, and smaller fishes, and is a favorite of the angler for its fighting ability and tendency to break water when hooked. Spawning occurs from autumn to spring, depending on the altitude.

The most common amphibian in the park is the bright-green to tan LEOPARD FROG. Restricted to damp areas near ponds or creeks, it is most likely to be seen in spring and early summer when the gelatinous egg masses are being laid. The tadpoles develop into mature frogs in about 3 years. Until then, it lives on plant food; after maturity, it eats insects and worms. It is found in Moraine Park, Horseshoe Park, and other moist grassland valleys.

The THREE-LINED TREEFROG, our smallest amphibian--about an inch long--is often mistaken for a young leopard frog. Although it is a treefrog, possessing disks on its toes, it is seldom seen in trees; it prefers small ponds or swampy grassland. It is sometimes found under rockpiles or pieces of damp wood. Despite its small size, its loud chirps in spring and summer can be heard a half mile away. During its singing, a vocal sac beneath the lower jaw inflates to a size larger than the creatures head. It is easily recognized by the three stripes down its back. Look for this diminutive amphibian at Gem Lake.

The insectivorous MOUNTAIN TOAD, a nondescript denizen of marshy lake habitats, is common in Cub Lake Valley, Hallowell Park, and in the Ouzel Lake area in Wild Basin. In late spring, large numbers congregate in ponds to lay strings of eggs. The small tadpoles become adults by the end of summer.

The TIGER SALAMANDER is one of the oddest animals of the park. Salamanders do not walk out of fires, as medieval tradition had it, but are amphibians. Unlike frogs and toads however, they retain their tails after reaching maturity. They hatch from eggs in shallow ponds, breathe by means of feathery external gills at the back of the head. Later, the gills are absorbed and the salamander begins breathing with lungs; it then leaves the water for a moist underground burrow, returning to ponds in early spring to lay eggs on plants or debris in the water near the shore. In southern latitudes, the larvae (gill-breathing forms) are able to lay eggs; these are the _axolotls_ of Mexico. Our local variety of the tiger salamander is about 8 inches long, gray-brown with dark spots. It is found in Sheep Lake, around which large numbers occur during the spawning season in June, and is often seen in suitable habitats along Cub Lake Trail. It eats insects, insect larvae, worms, and small snails. It is harmless to humans.

The only reptile in the park is the MOUNTAIN GARTER SNAKE, which is found throughout the mountainous areas of Colorado. Because of its fondness for water, it is often erroneously called a "water snake." It is greenish-gray and may reach a length of over 2 feet. It feeds on frogs and worms; it is entirely harmless to man, but is capable of giving off an offensive odor when handled. The young are born alive in midsummer. These snakes may be seen near most of the marshy ponds or slow-moving streams in the park. The ponds in Cub Lake Valley and in Hallowell Park are favorite haunts of these interesting creatures.

No rattlesnakes or other poisonous reptiles have ever been found in the park. Reports of rattlesnakes near Glen Haven mark the highest known occurrences in this region--a fact that, while contributing to the visitor's peace of mind, puzzles many people. This absence, or relative scarcity, of cold-blooded animals is probably due to the climate--long, cold winters and chilly summer evenings. The lower amount of oxygen at high altitudes may also be a factor. On the tundra, many pools are free of ice for only about 6 weeks--scarcely time for frogs' eggs to hatch and for larvae to develop lungs before freeze-up. The cold nights, even in midsummer, would inhibit a large snake's movements to such a degree that it would probably starve. Thus you can hike in the park in confidence that you will encounter no poisonous snakes.

Birds

With over 226 different species listed in the most recent publication on local birds, it is difficult to give adequate attention to the subject in the limited space of this booklet. Park birds, like our human population, can be classified as visitors and residents. Occasionally a "straggler" appears, far from its usual haunts. Birds, like humans, can be further classified by their preferences as to locale. Just as some people prefer to visit the high peaks and tundras, so some birds prefer these areas. A few people come here only to fish; so does the belted kingfisher. Like most humans, many birds can be seen throughout the park, and the greatest variety and numbers occur in summer.

A number of park birds--both resident and migratory--have specific preferences. For instance, if a bird's diet is mostly seeds from pine cones, it will usually be found in pine forests. Typical park environments and the characteristic birdlife of zones are outlined in Appendix B. Most of the birds nest in these associations.

The lower altitudes of the park--ponderosa pine forests and grassy meadows--have a large, varied population of birds in summer. Here lives the STELLER'S JAY, easily recognized by its rich-blue wings, sharp crest, and saucy manner. The BLACK-BILLED MAGPIE, like Steller's jay a member of the crow family, has a conspicuously long tail, a greenish-iridescent, black-and-white body, and a propensity for scavenging small animals killed by autos. The WILLIAMSON'S SAPSUCKER is always associated with the ponderosa pine in which it pecks its sap holes; and the "red-naped sapsucker"--a subspecies of the YELLOW-BELLIED SAPSUCKER--with bright-red throat and crown, is usually seen working on aspens. The GREEN-TAILED TOWHEE nests in the shrubs of the Montane zone during June. RED-EYED VIREOS, characterized by gray cap and black-bordered white stripe over the eye, are found in the forested valleys from June into August. The PIGMY NUTHATCH, a tiny, noisy bird with a brown head and white underparts, wanders in small, noisy flocks through the pine forests in spring and autumn but scatters during the nesting season. There is some migration of pigmy nuthatches to the plains when winter comes.

The chickadees--both the MOUNTAIN CHICKADEE, which remains in the park during the winter and has a typical black cap, broken by a white line above the eye, and the BLACK-CAPPED CHICKADEE, which becomes scarce in the winter--belong to the Montane zone. The VIOLET-GREEN SWALLOW is an abundant species in this zone. The MOUNTAIN BLUEBIRD arrives in "waves" during April, to leave scattered pairs to nest in holes in aspens or other cavities. It lacks the rufous breast, but has the characteristic azure color its name suggests. The WESTERN TANAGER, the most colorful bird in the park, is mainly black and yellow, with a red face. It is in the park from mid-May until August.

Nesting in this general zone, in rocky cliffs and canyons, are the GOLDEN EAGLE (seen every summer); the CANYON WREN (its characteristic "laughing" song is often heard during May and June); and the WHITE-THROATED SWIFT (which comes in early May to nest in crannies in the cliffs at the very east edge of the park, and leaves in June).

Some birds commonly nest in lodgepole and aspen forests, from about 8,500 feet upward. They include the WESTERN WOOD PEWEE, with a dark gray back, dull gray underparts, and two white bars on the long wings; the WARBLING VIREO, a migrant that arrives in a "wave" late in May; the LINCOLN'S SPARROW, streaked, with a short tail, which spends only 2 months in the park; the RUBY-CROWNED KINGLET, which appears suddenly in late April and fills the forests with its song during June; the showy AUDUBON'S WARBLER, with its fire-bright yellow spots and white wing patches; and the HERMIT THRUSH, whose songs ring through the lodgepole and spruce-fir forests and along the streams in July.

In the spruce-fir forest, nesting birds you may expect to see include the PINE GROSBEAK, a large finch, the male of which has a rich rose-red head and breast; and the BROWN CREEPER, named for its habit of creeping up tree trunks. Thickets near treeline are the nesting area of the WHITE-CROWNED SPARROW, a bird with strikingly black-and-white striped crown. It is as much at home above treeline as below, usually ready to scold all hikers who invade its territory. The WILSON'S WARBLER, with yellow body and black cap, nests in the willows at this altitude, but leaves the heights in August and returns in May.

Above the forests, on the wind-swept tundra, are some of the most interesting birds of the park. Here WHITE-TAILED PTARMIGANS spend the entire year. These alpine grouse, mottled-brown in summer, become pure white in midwinter. They assemble in small flocks in September to spend the winter together, but disperse during May and June for courtship and breeding. Nesting ptarmigans have been seen close by the busy Trail Ridge Road. Depending upon their natural camouflage for protection, they seldom show alarm when closely approached.

Ornithologists travel far to see BROWN-CAPPED ROSY FINCHES, which breed only on the high mountains of Colorado and probably northern New Mexico. Nesting in cliffs above treeline in summer, they band together in autumn to descend into the ponderosa forests for the winter. A third common bird of the tundra is the WATER PIPIT, a small ground bird, whose white-bordered tail is almost constantly in wagging motion. Pipits have an interesting courtship flight, and during midsummer are seen only above treeline, where they nest. By late August they descend to lower altitudes, not to return until June.

Even the most casual visitor notices the GRAY JAY and its cousin, CLARK'S NUTCRACKER. These members of the crow family are common at Bear Lake and at Many Parks and Rainbow Curve parking areas on Trail Ridge Road, where they compete with the chipmunks for hand-outs from motorists. The GRAY JAY, sometimes known as the Rocky Mountain jay or "camp robber," has a dull-gray body, light-gray head, and short bill. It is often seen in the company of the Clark's nutcracker, about the same size, but with a longer bill, light-gray body and white patches on black wings and tail. The nutcracker tends to range both above treeline and down into the ponderosa pine belt during summer, whereas the "camp robber" has a more restricted distribution.

The COMMON RAVEN is often observed soaring over the canyons. RED-TAILED HAWKS are fairly common--those that nest on the cliffs southeast of the visitor center are almost always to be seen in summer in Moraine Park. The robin is abundant and widely distributed in the park in summer. Flocks of robins are to be seen above treeline into October. The sleek BOHEMIAN WAXWING passes through the park in winter and early spring. Along the beaver ponds, in the willows, the showy REDWINGED BLACKBIRD may be seen from May until July.

Possibly the most unusual bird of the park is the DIPPER, or "water ouzel,"--a chunky little dark-gray bird, with a habit of bobbing up and down constantly, which is seen only near rushing mountain streams or waterfalls. It hops into rushing water and even walks submerged on the stream bottom in search of aquatic insects--a method of food-gathering that appears suicidal but actually does the dipper no harm. The mossy, dome-shaped nest is usually built where spray can keep it moist. Look for these amazing creatures at Chasm Falls, at The Pool, along Mill Creek and Glacier Creek, or in the cascades in Wild Basin.

It is hoped that this brief treatment of the birds will arouse your interest in these important members of the park's wildlife population.

Park-naturalist-conducted bird hikes are scheduled during the summer, and bird books are on sale at Moraine Park Visitor Center. Birds are an important element in the enjoyment of the park; take advantage of the opportunity to become acquainted with them.

MAN IN THE ROCKIES

At least a thousand years ago many Indians passed through the park region. Evidences of their presence are few but conclusive. Arrow points, hand hammers, and even crude pottery fragments have been collected, and some are on display in the Moraine Park Visitor Center. In the past 200 years or so, the park was the haunt of the Utes (whose main territory was west of the Continental Divide) and, latterly, of the Arapahoes who ranged the plains east of the park. Many old Indian trails have been logged in the park; Trail Ridge was named for its Indian trail.

After the United States acquired the region through the Louisiana Purchase, a number of explorers and adventurers passed near the park in their travels: Stephen Long in 1820, William Ashley in 1825, Richard Dodge in 1835, Eliza Farnham in 1839, Frederick Wislizenus in 1839, Rufus Sage in 1840, John C. Fremont in 1843 and 1844, Francis Parkman in 1846, and Frederick Ruxton in 1847. From his narrative, there is reason to think that Sage might have been in Wild Basin; if so, this would mean that he was the first explorer to set foot in what is now Rocky Mountain National Park.

On October 15, 1859, Joel Estes and his son topped Park Hill and saw what is now Estes Park. The next year, Estes settled his family in the grassy meadow--a "park" in Colorado terminology. It soon became known as Estes Park, a name in use to this day. By 1867, the Estes family claim was acquired by Griff Evans, who later transferred his rights to a British nobleman, the Earl of Dunraven.

Dunraven's influence on the region was, perhaps, more beneficial than his antagonists would have admitted. Many enterprises that would have seriously marred the matchless landscape were kept out of his feudal regime, saving (although quite accidentally) many beauty spots for later generations. He also did much to publicize the region; one of his guests was the artist Albert Bierstadt.

During the 1880's a mining boom occurred in what is now the west side of the park, leading to the establishment of Lulu City, Dutchtown, and Teller. Grand Lake had already been discovered, and a small but rather exciting community grew up on its shore, serving the needs of the new mining camps. You can see the crumbling cabins of Lulu City by taking a 3-mile hike up the Colorado River valley.

By 1910, many people began thinking of a National Park here, as that new invention, the automobile, was finally proving practicable as a means of travel. Although there were many supporters of the National Park idea throughout the land, one man--Enos Mills, naturalist, philosopher, writer--is credited with carrying the idea to a tangible result. He was rewarded for his years of hard work and innumerable frustrations when he participated in the dedication ceremonies for Rocky Mountain National Park on September 4, 1915.

CLIMATE

The climate of any part of the world is due to many forces--but basically to the amount of energy received from the sun. In mountainous areas, such as Rocky Mountain National Park, the climate is made more variable by the different altitudes, slopes, and exposure to solar radiation. Like all midlatitude regions, too, the park experiences invasions of different air masses with their varying qualities and the storms associated with their fronts.

Few frontal storms are experienced in summer. Most of the frequent thunderstorms are produced by the elevation and cooling warm air from the Gulf of Mexico as it streams into the mountains from the southeast. This season provides the great cumulus clouds that delight the photographer. During autumn, winter, and early spring the weather is determined by alternate invasions of cold Canadian air and cool Pacific air. The latter brings much snow to the western side of the park, but usually results in favorable weather on the eastern slope; the warm chinook winds are associated with these conditions. The Canadian air--usually heralded by blizzards on the plains below the mountains--brings snow and below-zero temperatures to the east slope. The winter weather at the village of Estes Park is often milder than in most of the plains country to the east, because of the protection afforded by the mountains from the full forces of these air movements.

In general, the weather is ideal for summer vacations, with cool, clear nights and sunny days. The frequent afternoon showers are mere refreshing interludes in an otherwise delightful season. The winter weather, although often rigorous, is relatively mild for the region's altitude, and, although the high Trail Ridge Road is snow-blocked, scarcely ever is it a problem to drive from Estes Park village to Denver or other plains communities.

It is always cool at night, even in midsummer, so bring warm clothes; western garb is always socially acceptable. The region is noted for its friendly informality. For hiking on trails and camping, old field clothes are desirable, and stout, comfortable shoes are a necessity. A slicker is important, since afternoon showers may be expected.

PARK SEASON

Although the park is officially open to travel all year, summer--June through September--is the "regular" season. From October until May, high-altitude roads are blocked by snow, as are most park trails in winter. All but one of the visitor centers are closed, and naturalist hikes and other activities are not scheduled after September 15. Camping is difficult from September to May because of adverse weather and limited facilities. However, the roads to both Estes Park and Grand Lake are usually open throughout winter, and accommodations are available in both gateway towns during the off-season.

WHAT TO DO

For most visitors, the park's scenic splendors are the chief attraction. There is a choice of several auto drives; and miles of trails beckon those who prefer hiking or horseback riding. A few of the principal automobile and trail trips are described below.

The park ranger-naturalist activities are popular; so is fishing, a park sport for which a State license is required. All activities within the National Park are keyed to the natural scene.

The principal winter-use area in Rocky Mountain National Park is at Hidden Valley along Trail Ridge Road, 10 miles west of Estes Park. Skiing, ice skating, snowshoeing, and platter sliding are popular here. The area is designed for family winter use, not as a typical ski resort. There are down-mountain ski runs and several practice areas so that either the expert or the novice skier will find slopes to his liking. Ski tows service popular slopes. A lodge and a warming shelter are provided at two popular locations within the area for the use of winter sports enthusiasts. Rental equipment, food service, lounge, and other facilities are available at the visitor center. Cross-country skiing may be enjoyed by the experienced skier at numerous locations on the eastern side of Rocky Mountain National Park and on the western slope in the vicinity of Grand Lake.

Here are a few photo hints: the light is intense at high altitudes; many shots are made at half the exposure needed nearer sea level. Mornings are best for pictures; afternoons are often cloudy. Use side-light for depth, and break up the foreground on long shots. Color film will not register accurately the intense light of the sky and the dark green of the forest on the same exposure. Film, filters, and other supplies are available at the gateway towns. Color slides are sold at Moraine Park Visitor Center and nearby curio shops.

Automobile Trips

Mountain driving is different from ordinary automobile travel, and presents special problems. In most of the park a speed limit of 35 miles per hour is enforced (20 m.p.h. on curves). This permits leisurely sightseeing; but do not stop on the road. Stop in a parking area and walk back to a scenic spot, if necessary. Vapor lock, which often stalls cars, is caused, in part, by driving the car up steep grades in high gear; use lower gears and keep the motor cooler. Most cars stalled by vapor lock will start after cooling off for about 10 minutes. Keep your car in gear and use lower gears, if possible, on down grades, too; do not use overdrive. Drive carefully and courteously. Gateway towns have the usual auto services.

_Trail Ridge Road._ The 50-mile drive from Estes Park to Grand Lake across the Front Range in Rocky Mountain National Park is one of America's most magnificent auto trips. Trail Ridge Road, a modern, hard-surfaced road, is usually open from late May to mid-October. For sheer scenic beauty, for easy access to the fantasies of treeline and tundra, and for a variety of natural landscapes within a few miles, Trail Ridge Road has few equals anywhere in the world.

Trail Ridge proper is a massive ridge extending easterly from the Continental Divide. In the early days an Indian trail crossed the mountains via this ridge--hence the name. The present road was built by the National Park Service in the early 1930's on a route chosen for maximum scenic possibilities and minimum snow-clearance problems.

The lofty peaks of the Colorado Rockies have been sculptured by glaciers into a bewildering network of rocky ridges, sheer cliffs, needlelike crags, and great cirques. Until roads were built, much of this breathtaking scenery was accessible only to hardy mountain climbers. Now all can see choice samples of high country from a car.

Although every mile of this road affords scenes of great interest and rare beauty, several points deserve special attention: Many Parks Curve permits close observation of the chipmunk, golden-mantled ground squirrel, and Clark's nutcracker, and excellent views of the meadows. To the north is Fall River Valley, and beyond, the towering peaks of the Mummy Range. This valley was the melting basin of a great glacier. The fine view to the south includes Longs Peak (14,256 feet), looming over the green flats of Beaver Meadows and Moraine Park. Several moraines--long, generally parallel ridges of broken rocks built up at the edges of glaciers and now heavily forested--stretch out before you, separating one park from the other.

Above Many Parks Curve, the road climbs along the north side of Trail Ridge, loops about the head of upper Hidden Valley (where skiing is in vogue during the winter), passes the 2-mile elevation sign, and reaches another parking area at Rainbow Curve, about 8 miles from Deer Ridge, and one-half mile higher in altitude. The view from Rainbow Curve is vast, open, and superb, with the Great Plains visible far to the east and forested canyons or glacial meadows nearer at hand. Many interesting geological features are pointed out on the roadside exhibit panels at this point.

Leaving Rainbow Curve, the road follows the rim of another deep canyon, passing through a ghost forest, scene of a devastating fire in the 1870's. Grotesquely formed treeline trees reflect the harsh climate at this high altitude. As the Rock Cabins are passed, a superlative view opens up to the south across Forest Canyon. For several miles the road traverses the Alpine zone tundra, carpeted during July by low-growing, colorful flowers.

Glaciated mountains south of Trail Ridge Road can be seen to best advantage from Rock Cut (altitude 12,110). Gorge Lakes, Forest Canyon, and other landscape features are indicated in roadside exhibits. If time permits, a short hike can be made over a nature trail to the nearby Roger W. Toll Memorial Peakfinder. A walk along this trail provides a rare opportunity to become acquainted with the tundra; however, the high altitude affects some people adversely, so it may not be advisable for persons with heart ailments to attempt the trip.

Iceberg Lake, which occupies a glacial cirque, was named from the presence of blocks of ice that remain on its surface even in late summer, except in extremely warm and dry years. The reddish cliffs at this point are made up of relatively recent lava, which is not common in the park. The highest point (12,183 feet, marked by a sign) is between Iceberg Lake and Fall River Pass. The pass is a popular stopping place, with restrooms, alpine exhibit room, and lunch counter.

Below Fall River Pass the road continues downhill all the way to Grand Lake. The Continental Divide is crossed at Milner Pass at an altitude of 10,758 feet, in the midst of a typical spruce-fir forest. As Far View Curve is approached, the valley of the Colorado River comes into view, and the rugged Never Summer Range looms up to the west. The road descends from this point in sharp switchback curves to reach the wide floor of the Colorado Valley. From here to Grand Lake, the route follows the valley. Deer and elk are often seen in this vicinity. The lake itself, over 250 feet deep, is one of Colorado's scenic gems. The town of Grand Lake, outside the park, is a friendly western town with the usual resort accommodations.

_Bear Lake Road._ This is a short spur road, leaving from Beaver Meadows Entrance on one of the eastern approaches to Trail Ridge through Moraine Park and Glacier Basin to Bear Lake, nestled at the foot of the high mountains. Everyone should make this trip, if time permits--an extra hour or so will do it. The road traverses glaciated meadows and moraines; it affords splendid views of Longs Peak. Great stands of aspen on Bierstadt Ridge make this a colorful drive in autumn. Bear Lake, at the end of the road--the only high lake in the park accessible by auto--is a foreground for the view up Tyndall Gorge, with the sheer cliff of Hallett Peak making a dramatic backdrop to the alpine scene. A half-mile trail encircles the lake, giving different scenic effects with every step, and nature-trail labels aid in enjoyment of the rocks, wildflowers, and trees. A short hike--a mile or so--from Bear Lake to Dream Lake gives you an opportunity to escape auto traffic and see some of the park, without undertaking too arduous a climb.

Trail Trips

You are urged to take at least one trail trip, for only on the trails can you experience the real essence of the mountains. Everyone has his favorite trail; you can make your own selection. The first decision is whether to hike or ride a horse--or to try both methods. In any case, leave your car behind for at least 1 day of your visit.

Certain rules covering trails should be observed:

_To avoid getting lost stay on designated trails. Repeated short cuts
damage the trails, necessitating repairs._

_If you are hiking, yield right-of-way to horses by standing quietly
off the trail as the riders pass._

_Deposit trash in receptacles; keep trails free of litter._

_If you plan to cook out, obtain a fire permit from a park ranger.
This is a fire-protection regulation._

_Leave dogs behind. Their presence on trails disturbs wildlife._

With some 200 miles of trails in the park, beginning at a dozen different points and ending at scores of destinations, you may have difficulty planning your trail trips before you arrive. Information on the various trail trips is best obtained after you get to the park. The park rangers, the museum attendants, the naturalists, and the saddle-horse operators can help you outline trips.

A brief description of a few of the popular trips follows:

_Trails from Bear Lake._

One of the trail hubs of the park is Bear Lake. A "must" is the 1-mile hike to Dream Lake, near the foot of Hallett Peak. From Dream Lake you can take a primitive trail another mile to Emerald Lake in Tyndall Gorge or a developed trail to Lake Haiyaha in Chaos Canyon. Each trip is an excellent half-day hike. You may want to go along the big moraine to Bierstadt Lake, or to the top of Flattop Mountain from Bear Lake--a long, uphill climb, with a reward of marvelous views. The splendid all-day hike to Odessa and Fern Lakes begins here, too. This can be a loop trip, via Cub Lake, returning to Bear Lake; or, if you can arrange to be met in Moraine Park, an excellent 9-mile "through" hike with a minimum of uphill walking is possible.

_Glacier Gorge Trails._

A mile below Bear Lake is a parking area from which trails lead in several directions. Two short hikes--about 4 hours each--are possible from here to Lake Mills in Glacier Gorge (at the foot of Longs Peak) and to The Loch, a lovely mountain lake. From these lakes, dim "fishermen's" tracks lead on to higher and more remote lakes. From The Loch a primitive path leads to Andrews Glacier. These latter tracks are not really trails and, although easily followed, usually require some local specific information. There is also a seldom-used, constructed trail from Glacier Gorge parking area up to Boulderfield near the top of Longs Peak. This makes a good horseback trip but is not popular with hikers because the destination is so much more easily reached by the shorter trail from Longs Peak Campground. A spur from this trail leads, via Storm Pass, to Tahosa Valley.

_Fern Lake Trail._

At the end of the Moraine Park Road is a picnic area. A trail begins here which follows Big Thompson River, past beaver dams and The Pool, to Fern Falls and Fern Lake. From Fern Lake the trail continues to Odessa Lake and on to Bear Lake. Many people leave Bear Lake, reaching Moraine Park by this trail. The trip is about 9 miles; 6 hours gives ample time for a leisurely pace.

_Wild Basin Trails._

Many persons consider Wild Basin the finest wilderness area in the park. Trails begin here at the road's end and lead up the branches of North St. Vrain Creek to many beautiful lakes. One popular hike (about 4 hours) is to Ouzel Falls, via Calypso Cascades, and return. Most of the other trips in Wild Basin are longer and make more suitable all-day hikes. Thunder Lake is one of these spots. Ouzel and Bluebird Lakes make another 1-day trip combination. There is no trail across the range here, but some fine, back-country hiking possibilities exist for the sturdy, seasoned hiker.

_Western Slope Trails._

Many people hike or ride horseback from Bear Lake over Flattop Mountain to Grand Lake via either Big Meadows or North Inlet. This takes all day as compared with 2 or 3 hours by road. However, the trail trip is through much splendid scenic country which is not seen by the highway traveler between these two points. Hikes in the Grand Lake vicinity include one to Shadow Mountain Fire Lookout, with matchless panoramic views, and the interesting "trail to nowhere," up Columbine Creek. The trail distances to major points of interest on the west slope are longer than on the east side of the park, and many people prefer to use horses. By riding, trips to Lake Verna in East Inlet and Lakes Nokoni and Nanita in North Inlet can be made in 1 day. A number of spectacular horseback trips in Never Summer Range are possible. Saddle-horse operators can help you plan such trips in this vicinity.

_Trails in the Estes Park Vicinity._

Several interesting trail trips near Estes Park village and in the lower altitudes of the park are available. These are especially pleasant early or late in the season when many of the higher trails are snow-blocked. Gem Lake is reached by a 2-mile trail (3 hours or so) which begins about 1 mile from town on the Devils Gulch Road. This trip presents interesting rock formations and fine panoramic views. Twin Sisters is a high, isolated mountain south of Estes Park, reached by a trail beginning on State Route 7. A good hike for about 7 hours takes one to the top of this mountain and back in a leisurely manner. The view of the plains from Twin Sisters is extensive, and treeline flowers add color to the trip. There are several other hiking trails in this area.

_Trails near Trail Ridge Road._

At Deer Ridge, a trail leads to the commanding summit of Deer Mountain, which is a fine, early-season hike although dry in midsummer. On the tundra, a trail leads from Rock Cut on the road to the Memorial Peakfinder. A trail also leads from Iceberg Lake to Fall River Pass. At Milner Pass a trail leaves the highway, passes through an especially beautiful forest, and reaches the top of Specimen Mountain. This hike affords matchless scenic views, particularly of the Never Summer Range, fine displays of wildflowers, and possible glimpses of bighorn. Near the spot where Trail Ridge Road begins the ascent of the western slope, a trail leads up the Colorado River to the ghost town of Lulu City, and branches continue to Poudre Pass, Thunder Pass, and beyond.

Many of these trails--and others--can be covered by visitors on summer trips with the park ranger-naturalists. These escorted hikes help you to get your bearings in the park, as well as understand the natural features encountered along the route. If you are interested in hiking, you should join a few of these naturalist trips. In this way, you quickly realize the possibilities for your unescorted hikes, if you prefer to travel on your own. The park ranger-naturalists will help you plan other hikes and will do all they can to make your trail trips safe, interesting, and enjoyable.

This outline of trail-trip possibilities is only a beginning. There are also trips to Lawn Lake, Tyndall Glacier, Windy Gulch, the North Fork of the Thompson River, and Chasm Lake. Information on the far more difficult mountaintop trips is not included here. If you expect to ascend such mountains as Longs Peak or McHenry's Peak, be sure to consult the park ranger at the nearest ranger station or go to the chief ranger's office in Estes Park village. Routes to be followed may vary from week to week because of changes in snow conditions; ask park rangers for up-to-date information. Remember to get a fire permit if you plan to camp out on the trail.

SUGGESTED READINGS

This booklet may help your understanding and appreciation of Rocky Mountain National Park, but in its limited pages only a superficial treatment can be given. The following publications--nearly all of them available for reference or purchase at the park museum information office or Fall River Pass exhibit room--have been found helpful sources of more detailed interpretation of the story of this park.

_Birds_

Niedrach, Robert J., and Robert B. Rockwell, _Birds of Denver and
Mountain Parks_. Denver Museum of Natural History, 1959.
Peterson, Roger Tory, _Field Guide to Western Birds_. Houghton Mifflin
Co., Boston, 1941.

_Plants_

Clements, Edith S., _Flowers of Mountain and Plain_. H. W. Wilson Co.,
New York, 1926 (3d edition).
More, Robert W., _Colorado Evergreens_. Denver Museum of Natural
History, 1949.
Guide to the conifers, with photographic illustrations.
Nelson, Ruth Ashton, _Plants of Rocky Mountain National Park_.
Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C., 1953.
The basic reference on the wildflowers of the region.
Pesman, M. Walter, _Meet the Natives_. Cooperative Printing Co.,
Denver, rev. ed., 1960.
A guide to the flora of the region, with a color-key arrangement;
useful anywhere in Colorado.
Preston, Richard, _North American Trees_. Iowa State College Press,
Ames, Iowa, 1948.
An illustrated guide to all species of trees of North America.
Roberts, Harold and Rhoda, _Common Wildflowers of Colorado_. Museum
Pictorial No. 8, Denver Museum of Natural History, 1959.
Roberts, Rhoda, and Ruth Nelson, _Mountain Wildflowers of Colorado_.
Museum Pictorial No. 13, Denver Museum of Natural History,
1957.
Fifty common mountain wildflowers described and illustrated.

_Fishes_

Beckman, William C., _Guide to the Fishes of Colorado_. Leaflet No.
11, Univ. of Colorado Museum, Boulder, 1952.

_Geology_

Pearl, Richard M., _Nature as a Sculptor_. Denver Museum of Natural
History, 1956.
A geological interpretation of western scenery, chiefly Colorado.
Rocky Mountain Nature Association, _Glaciers of Rocky Mountain
National Park_. Published in cooperation with National Park
Service, U.S. Department of the Interior, 1959.
Glacier story of Rocky Mountain National Park, past and present.
U.S. Geological Survey, _Denver Mountain Area Map_. 1955.
Covers most of Colorado's Front Range and explains its geology.
Wegemann, Carroll, _A Guide to the Geology of Rocky Mountain National
Park_. Government Printing Office, Washington, D.C., 1955.
Helpful road logs and the general geologic story of the park.

_Mammals_

Burt, W. H., and R. P. Grossenheider, _Field Guide to the Mammals_.
Houghton Mifflin Co., Boston, 1956.
A manual for the identification of all mammals north of Mexico.
Rodeck, Hugo G., _Guide to the Mammals of Colorado_. University of
Colorado, Boulder.

_Mountain Climbing and Hiking_

Henderson, Kenneth, _Handbook of American Mountaineering_. Houghton
Mifflin Co., Boston, 1942.
A pocket-size book, almost encyclopedic in scope, giving detailed
information on mountain climbing and life on the trail.
Nesbit, Paul, _Longs Peak, Its Story and a Climbing Guide_. Published
by Paul W. Nesbit, Colorado Springs, Colo., 1959.
Ormes, Robert M., _Guide to the Colorado Mountains_. Sage Books,
Denver, 3d revised edition, 1955.

_Parks in General_

Butcher, Devereux, _Exploring Our National Parks and Monuments_.
Houghton Mifflin Co., Boston, 4th edition, 1954.
In cloth or paper covers; illustrated; gives succinct information on
all our parks with natural-history backgrounds.
Shankland, Robert, _Steve Mather of the National Parks_. Alfred A.
Knopf, New York, 1955.
The evolution of the National Park System and the life of the first
director of the National Park Service.
Story, Isabelle, _National Park Story in Pictures_. Government
Printing Office, Washington, D.C., 1957.
Tilden, Freeman, _The National Parks: What They Mean to You and Me_.
Alfred A. Knopf, New York, 1955.
Factual material on the parks, their significance, origins, and
characteristics.

APPENDIX A--GUIDE TO MAMMAL OBSERVATION

_Hoofed Mammals_

_Bighorn_ (mountain sheep)--Best seen on Sheep Rock south of Poudre
Lake; also at Sheep Lake, Shipler and Specimen Mountains,
Hallett's Peak, Mount Alice, Never Summer Range, Mount Ida.

_Deer, Mule_--Occasional in open pine country, especially early and late
in the day. Hillside above Tuxedo Park, Moraine Park, Deer
Mountain, Trail Ridge, and Kawuneeche Valley.

_Elk, American_--At treeline on Trail Ridge, Upper Poudre Valley, and
near Lawn Lake in summer; occasionally in Hallowell and Horseshoe
Parks during bad weather. Large herds in lower meadows from
October to April.

_Predatory Mammals_

_Badger_--Occasional in Moraine Park and other open meadow areas.

_Bear, black_--Uncommon; infrequently observed along roads and trails
and in wooded areas throughout the park.

_Bobcat_--Common, but in ravine country, especially at lower elevations.

_Cougar_ (mountain lion)--Uncommon; occasionally seen above Loch Vale,
Horseshoe Park, upper Fall River Valley; typical habitat around
Gem Lake.

_Coyote_--Common, especially in Hallowell Park, lower Cub Lake Valley,
Moraine Park, lower Beaver Meadows; signs on Deer and Specimen
Mountains.

_Fox, red_--Fairly common at or above treeline, along the Colorado
River, and in the Kawuneeche Valley.

_Marten_--Occasional at Bear Lake, Haiyaha, Fern-Odessa Trail, Lulu
City; usually in spruce-fir forest.

_Mink_--Occasional along higher streams and lakes like Haiyaha.

_Weasel, longtail_--Occasionally seen above treeline on Trail Ridge at
Rock Cabins and Rock Cut; and at woodpiles in lower meadows.

_Gnawing Mammals_

_Beaver_--Workings along Glacier Creek in Glacier Basin, in Hallowell
Park, Moraine Park, Lower Hidden Valley, Grand Lake Valley. Seen
early or late in the day.

_Chipmunks_ (Colorado and Least)--Common everywhere, especially on Trail
Ridge and on Gem Lake Trail.

_Cottontail_--Only at lower elevations. Fairly common in Hallowell Park,
Moraine Park, and Beaver Meadows.

_Hare, snowshoe_--Occasional in spruce-fir forests and down to about
8,500 feet. Common around Phantom Valley Ranch.

_Jackrabbit, whitetail_--Uncommon; above treeline on Trail Ridge.

_Marmot, yellowbelly_--Common everywhere in rocky country, especially on
lower Cub Lake Trail.

_Mouse, deer_--Common everywhere at night; often seen running across
road or heard in cabins and tents.

_Mouse, western jumping_--Uncommon; in dense vegetation along streams.

_Muskrat_--Often seen at twilight in Sheep Lake and nearby ponds; also
in old beaver ponds along lower Cub Lake Trail.

_Pika_--Fairly common in rockpiles above 9,500 feet, as at Rock Cut on
Trail Ridge, along trail on Flattop, above Bear Lake Lodge, and at
Longs Peak Boulder Field.

_Pocket gopher, northern_--Piled diggings evident in most grassland,
especially in high country.

_Porcupine_--Common in ponderosa and lodgepole forests; often
encountered on Bear Lake and Grand Lake Highways at night. Dens in
rocks.

_Squirrel, golden-mantled ground_--Common everywhere in rocky country,
especially on Trail Ridge, at Bear Lake, and along lower Cub Lake
Trail.

_Squirrel, Richardson ground_--Common everywhere in grassland at middle
elevations, especially Moraine Park and Estes parkland.

_Squirrel, spruce_--Fairly common in spruce-fir forest, especially
around Bierstadt Lake, Cub Lake, Brinwood to Pool, upper Hidden
Valley, Wild Basin, and lower Lawn Lake Trail.

_Squirrel, tassel-eared_--Occasional in ponderosa pines at Sheep Lake,
Tuxedo Park, and Gem Lake Trail.

APPENDIX B--GUIDE TO BIRD OBSERVATION

(_Courtesy, Dr. R. G. Beidleman, Colorado College_)

SPECIES AREAS (see key below)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Blackbird, Brewer's X
Blackbird, red-winged X X
Bluebird, mountain X X X X
Chickadee, mountain X X X X X X X
Chickadee, black-capped X X X X X X
Creeper, brown X X X
Dipper, or water ouzel X X
Eagle, golden X X
Finch, brown-capped rosy X
Finch, Cassin's X X
Finch, house X
Flicker, red-shafted X X X X X X
Flycatcher, olive-sided X X
Flycatcher, western X
Goshawk X X X
Grosbeak, black-headed X
Grosbeak, pine X
Grouse, blue X X
Hawk, red-tailed X X X X
Hummingbird, broad-tailed X X X X X X X X
Jay, gray X X
Jay, Steller's X X X X X
Junco, gray-headed X X X X X X
Kingfisher, belted X X
Kinglet, golden-crowned X X
Kinglet, ruby-crowned X X X X X X
Lark, horned X
Magpie, black-billed X X X X
Mallard X X X
Nutcracker, Clark's X X X X X X X X X
Nuthatch, pigmy X X X X X X X X
Nuthatch, white-breasted X X X X X
Pewee, western wood X X X X X X X X
Pigeon, band-tailed X X X
Pipit, water X
Ptarmigan, white-tailed X
Raven, common X X
Robin X X X X X X X X X X
Sandpiper, spotted X X X
Sapsucker, yellow-bellied X X X X X X
Sapsucker, Williamson's X X X X X
Siskin, pine X X X X X X X X
Solitaire, Townsend's X X X X X
Sparrow, chipping X X X
Sparrow, Lincoln's X X X
Sparrow, song X X X X
Sparrow, vesper X
Sparrow, white-crowned X X
Starling X
Swallow, tree X
Swallow, violet-green X X X X X X X X
Swift, white-throated X X X X X
Tanager, western X X X X X X
Thrush, hermit X X X
Towhee, green-tailed X X X X X X
Vireo, red-eyed X X X X X X
Vireo, warbling X X X X X X
Warbler, Audubon's X X X X X X X X
Warbler, Macgillivray's X X
Warbler, Wilson's X X X X
Warbler, yellow X
Wren, canyon X X
Wren, house X X X X X

1--Estes Park village area.
2--Gem Lake-Lumpy Ridge area.
3--Devil's Gulch-North Fork area.
4--Tuxedo Park-YMCA area.
5--Mill Creek Valley.
6--Cub Lake Valley.
7--Fern Lake Trail to The Pool.
8--Sheep Lake and Horseshoe Park.
9--Bear Lake district.
10--Trail Ridge above treeline.

APPENDIX C--COMMON AND SCIENTIFIC NAMES OF PLANTS

This list of common names and their scientific (Latin) equivalents includes only those plants that are mentioned in the text. With minor exceptions, authority for the scientific names of all plants and for the common names of all plants except trees is the second edition (1942) of _Standardized Plant Names_, edited by Harlan P. Kelsey and William A. Dayton. Authority for common names of trees is _Check List of Native and Naturalized Trees of the United States (Including Alaska)_, by Elbert L. Little, Jr. (U.S. Department of Agriculture Handbook No. 41, published in 1953.)

Trees and Shrubs

Alder, thinleaf--_Alnus tenuifolia_
Aspen, quaking--_Populus tremuloides_
Birch, water--_Betula occidentalis_
Bitterbrush, antelope--_Purshia tridentata_
Cottonwood, narrowleaf--_Populus angustifolia_
Currant, wax--_Ribes cereum_
Douglas-fir--_Pseudotsuga menziesii_
Fir, subalpine--_Abies lasiocarpa_
Honeysuckle, bearberry--_Lonicera involucrata_
Juniper, Rocky Mountain--_Juniperus scopuloram_
Maple, Rocky Mountain--_Acer glabrum glabrum_
Mountain-ash, Greenes--_Sorbus scopulina_
Pine, limber--_Pinus flexilis_
Pine, lodgepole--_Pinus contorta_
Pine, ponderosa--_Pinus ponderosa_
Raspberry, American red--_Rubus idaeus strigosus_
Raspberry, boulder--_Rubus deliciosus_
Sagebrush, big--_Artemisia tridentata_
Spruce, blue--_Picea pungens_
Spruce, Engelmann--_Picea engelmannii_
Willow, Scouler--_Salix scouleriana_

Wildflowers

Actinea, graylocks--_Actinea grandiflora_
Arnica, heartleaf--_Arnica cordifolia_
Bistort, American--_Polygonum bistortoides_
Black-eyed susan--_Rudbeckia hirta_
Buttercup, alpine--_Ranunculus adoneus_
Calypso--_Calypso bulbosa_
Columbine, Colorado--_Aquilegia coerulea_
Coralroot, spotted--_Corallorhiza maculata_
Crazyweed, Lambert--_Ozytropis lamberti_
Dryad, Mt. Washington--_Dryas octopetala_
Erysimum, plains--_Erysimum asperum_
Fireweed--_Epilobium angustifolium_
Forget-me-not, alpine--_Eritrichum argenteum_
Gaillardia, common perennial--_Gaillardia aristata_
Geranium, Fremont--_Geranium fremonti_
Globe-flower, white--_Trollius albiflorus_
Iris, Rocky Mountain--_Iris missouriensis_
Jamesia, cliff--_Jamesia americana_
Kings crown--_Sedum integrifolium_
Marsh-marigold, elkslip--_Caltha leptosepala_
Miner's candle--_Cryptantha virgata_
Monkshood, Columbia--_Aconitum columbianum_
Pasqueflower, American--_Anemone ludoviciana_
Penstemon, oneside--_Penstemon unilateralis_
Phlox, tufted--_Phlox caespitosa_
Primrose, Parry--_Primula parryi_
Pyrola--_Pyrola_ spp.
Silene, moss--_Silene acaulis_
Starlily, common--_Leucocrinum montanum_
Thermopsis, spreading--_Thermopsis divaricata_
Townsendia, stemless--_Townsendia exscapa_
Twinflower, American--_Linnaea borealis americana_

U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 1964--742-848

Transcriber's Notes

--This etext based on a U.S. government publication is public domain in
the United States.

--Corrected a few palpable typos.

--In the text versions only, text in italics is delimited by
_underscores_.