Chapter I: Front Matter

ROMANTIC SPAIN:

_A RECORD OF PERSONAL EXPERIENCES._

ROMANTIC SPAIN:

A Record of Personal Experiences.

BY

JOHN AUGUSTUS O'SHEA,

AUTHOR OF

"LEAVES FROM THE LIFE OF A SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT," "AN IRON-BOUND CITY," ETC.

"Oh, lovely Spain! renowned, romantic land!" CHILDE HAROLD.

IN TWO VOLUMES.

VOL. II.

LONDON: WARD AND DOWNEY, 12, YORK STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W.C. 1887. [_All Rights Reserved._]

CONTENTS OF VOL. II.

CHAPTER I.

Page

A Tidy City--A Sacred Corpse--Remarkable Features of Puerto--A Calesa--Lady Blanche's Castle--A Typical English Engineer--British Enterprise--"Success to the Cadiz Waterworks!"--Visit to a Bodega--Wine and Women--The Coming Man--A Strike 1-18

CHAPTER II.

The Charms of Cadiz--Seville-by-the-Sea--Cervantes--Daughters of Eve--The Ladies who Prayed and the Women who Didn't--Fasting Monks--Notice to Quit on the Nuns--The Rival Processions--Gutting a Church--A Disorganized Garrison--Taking it Easy--The Mysterious "Mr. Crabapple"--The Steamer _Murillo_--An Unsentimental Navvy--Bandaged Justice--Tricky Ship-Owning--Painting Black White 19-41

CHAPTER III.

Expansion of Carlism--A Pseudo-Democracy--Historic Land and Water Marks--An Impudent Stowaway--Spanish Respect for Providence--A Fatal Signal--Playing with Fire--Across the Bay--Farewell to Andalusia--British Spain 42-50

CHAPTER IV.

Gabriel Tar--A Hard Nut to Crack--In the Cemetery--An Old Tipperary Soldier--Marks of the Broad Arrow--The "Scorpions"--The Jaunting-Cars--Amusements on the Rock--Mrs. Damages' Complaint--The Bay, the Alameda, and Tarifa--How to Learn Spanish--Types of the British Officer--The Wily Ben Solomon--A Word for the Subaltern--Sunset Gun--The Sameness of Sutlersville 51-75

CHAPTER V.

From Pillar to Pillar--Historic Souvenirs--Off to Africa--The Sweetly Pretty Albert--Gibraltar by Moonlight--The Chain-Gang--Across the Strait--A Difficult Landing--Albert is Hurt--"Fat Mahomet"--The Calendar of the Centuries Put Back--Tangier: the People, the Streets, the Bazaar--Our Hotel--A Coloured Gentleman--Seeing the Sights--Local Memoranda--Jewish Disabilities--Peep at a Photographic Album--The Writer's Notions on Harem Life 76-102

CHAPTER VI.

A Pattern Despotism--Some Moorish Peculiarities--A Hell upon Earth--Fighting for Bread--An Air-Bath--Surprises of Tangier--On Slavery--The Writer's Idea of a Moorish Squire--The Ladder of Knowledge--Gulping Forbidden Liquor--Division of Time--Singular Customs--The Shereef of Wazan--The Christian who Captivated the Moor--The Interview--Moslem Patronage of Spain--A Slap for England--A Vision of Beauty--An English Desdemona: Her Plaint--One for the Newspaper Men--The Ladies' Battle--Farewell--The English Lady's Maid--Albert is Indisposed--The Writer Sums up on Morocco 103-135

CHAPTER VII.

Back to Gibraltar--The Parting with Albert--The Tongue of Scandal--Voyage to Malaga--"No Police, no Anything"--Federalism Triumphant--Madrid _in Statu Quo_--Orense--Progress of the Royalists--On the Road Home--In the Insurgent Country--Stopped by the Carlists--An Angry Passenger is Silenced 136-151

CHAPTER VIII.

On the Wing--Ordered to the Carlist Headquarters--Another _Petit Paris_--Carlists from Cork--How Leader was Wounded--Beating-up for an Anglo-Irish Legion--Pontifical Zouaves--A Bad Lot--Oddities of Carlism--Santa Cruz Again--Running a Cargo--On Board a Carlist Privateer--A Descendant of Kings--"Oh, for an Armstrong Twenty-Four Pounder!"--Crossing the Border--A Remarkable Guide--Mountain Scenery--In Navarre--Challenged at Vera--Our Billet with the Parish Priest--The Sad Story of an Irish Volunteer--Dialogue with Don Carlos--The Happy Valley--Bugle-Blasts--The Writer in a Quandary--The Fifth Battalion of Navarre--The Distribution of Arms--The Bleeding Heart--Enthusiasm of the Chicos 152-187

CHAPTER IX.

The Cura of Vera--Fueros of the Basques--Carlist Discipline--Fate of the _San Margarita_--The Squadron of Vigilance--How a Capture was Effected--The Sea-Rovers in the Dungeon--Visit to the Prisoners--San Sebastian--A Dead Season--The Defences of a Threatened City--Souvenirs of War--The Miqueletes--In a Fix--A German Doctor's Warning 188-210

CHAPTER X.

Belcha's Brigands--Pale-Red Republicans--The Hyena--More about the _San Margarita_--Arrival of a Republican Column--The Jaunt to Los Pasages--A Sweet Surprise--"The Prettiest Girl in Spain"--A Madrid Acquaintance--A Costly Pull--The Diligence at Last--Renteria and its Defences--A Furious Ride--In France Again--Unearthing Santa Cruz--The Outlaw in his Lair--Interviewed at Last--The Truth about the Endarlasa Massacre--A Death-Warrant--The Buried Gun--Fanaticism of the Partisan-Priest 211-238

CHAPTER XI.

An Audible Battle--"Great Cry and Little Wool"--A Carlist Court Newsman--The Religious War--The Siege of Oyarzun--Madrid Rebels--"The Money of Judas"--A Manifesto from Don Carlos--An Ideal Monarch--Necessity of Social and Political Reconstruction Proclaimed--A Free Church--A Broad Policy--The King for the People--The Theological Question--Austerity in Alava--Clerical and Non-Clerical Carlists--Disavowal of Bigotry--A Republican Editor on the Carlist Creed--Character of the Basques--Drill and Discipline--Guerilleros _versus_ Regulars 239-268

CHAPTER XII.

Barbarossa--Royalist-Republicans--Squaring a Girl--At Irun--"Your Papers?"--The Barber's Shop--A Carlist Spy--An Old Chum--The Alarm--A Breach of Neutrality--Under Fire--Caught in the Toils--The Heroic Thomas--We Slope--A Colleague Advises Me--"A Horse! a Horse!"--State of Bilbao--Don Carlos at Estella--Sanchez Bregua Recalled--Tolosa Invites--Republican Ineptitude--Do not Spur a Free Horse--Very Ancient Boys--Meditations in Bed--A Biscay Storm 269-299

CHAPTER XIII.

Nearing the End--Firing on the Red Cross--Perpetuity of War--Artistic Hypocrites--The Jubilee Year--The Conflicts of a Peaceful Reign--Major Russell--Quick Promotion--The Foreign Legion--The Aspiring Adventurer--A Leader's Career--A Piratical Proposal--The "Ojaladeros" of Biarritz--A Friend in Need--Buying a Horse--Gilpin Outdone--"Fred Burnaby" 300-317

FOOTNOTES

NOTES OF THE TRANSCRIBER

ROMANTIC SPAIN.