Chapter I: Preface

“Will no one explore Roraima, and bring us back the tidings which it has been waiting these thousands of years to give us? One of the greatest marvels and mysteries of the earth lies on the outskirt of one of our own colonies—only not within British territory because the frontier line has been bent in at the spot, on purpose, it would seem, to shut it out—and we leave the mystery unsolved, the marvel uncared for.”

The above words, together with a general outline of the wonders to be explored, appeared in a number of the “Spectator” for April, 1877, and aroused my interest to such a degree that I thought by day and dreamt by night of Roraima.

After reading Mr Brown’s delightful book on British Guiana—which was referred to in the article from which I have quoted—I made up my mind to visit that colony, with the hope of at all events seeing Roraima and exploring its floral treasures, even if I should be unable to make its ascent.

The summit, Mr Brown says, is inaccessible, except by means of balloons. “According to the traditions of the Indians,” says Sir Robert Schomburgh, “the summits of the flat-topped gigantic sandstone walls, which never can be reached by human beings, contain large lakes, full of remarkable fish-like dolphins, and continually encircled by gigantic white eagles—their eternal warders.”

Full then, of curiosity, with a great longing to become better acquainted with this mysterious region, I arranged my plans so as to arrive in Demerara about January, paying a flying visit on my way to Bermuda _viâ_ New York, and so on through the West Indies to Guiana. Fortune favoured me, inasmuch as on my arrival at Georgetown, Demerara, I found that the Colonial government was about to send an expedition to Roraima, for the purpose of trying to reach the top of that mountain. With great kindness, the authorities permitted me to accompany it, and I cannot let this occasion pass without expressing my sincere thanks for the opportunity thus afforded me of visiting the interior of British Guiana.

The following rough record of my journey is but a poor return for the many attentions shown me, but it may add its mite in attracting the notice of travellers to a country not often visited for pleasure.

J.W.B.W.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

OUTWARD BOUND—THE ‘CANIMA’—A ROUGH VOYAGE—FIRST VIEW OF
BERMUDA—COASTING—IRELAND ISLE—COMMISSIONERS’ HOUSE—THE
SOUND—HAMILTON—LANDING—AN INDIA-RUBBER TREE—A BILL OF FARE—THE
REGISTER—HAMILTON HOTEL—PAPAWS—A SUGGESTION 1

CHAPTER II.

A WHITE TOWN—A CEDAR AVENUE—THE “DUCKING-STOOL”—SEA
ENCROACHMENTS—FERN PITS—SPANISH POINT—FAIRY-LAND—THE ISLAND
ROAD—AMUSEMENTS—A PAPER HUNT—REEFS—SEA CUCUMBERS—THE SOUTH
WIND—SAND-HILLS—BOILERS—ARCHITECTURE—MUSEUM—A RARE SPIDER 8

CHAPTER III.

BERMUDIAN ROADS—NIGHT BLOOMING CACTUS—A NATURAL
CURIOSITY—EXPORTS AND IMPORTS—THE COLOURED NATIVE—HARRINGTON
SOUND—DEVIL’S HEAD—NEPTUNE’S GROTTO—A SALT-WATER
FOUNTAIN—A DIABOLICAL PLOT—THE CALABASH—MEMENTOES OF TOM
MOORE—WALSINGHAM—THE CAUSEWAY—A NEW FEATURE IN CULTIVATION—ST.
GEORGE’S 18

CHAPTER IV.

ST. THOMAS—FORTS—BOATMEN—DIVERS—HOTEL DU COMMERCE—MAIN
STREET—STABLE COMPANIONS—AMAZONS—A NEGRO POLITICIAN—DANISH
RULE—A SORRY SIGHT—JUSTICE IN THE VIRGIN GROUP—A DAY’S
DOINGS—KRUMM BAY—CHA-CHAS—AN OCEAN PAWNBROKER’S—LANDSLIP—ALOE—A
CURE FOR LUNG DISEASES—UP THE MOUNTAIN 27

CHAPTER V.

TO SANTA CRUZ—BASSIN—A DOG-HOUSE—FRUIT STEALING—“THIBET”
TREES—GREEN HERONS—PRETTY SCENERY—WEST END—SANTA
CRUZ v. ST. THOMAS—CENTRAL ROAD—STEAM PLOUGH—A
CENTRAL FACTORY—OPPOSITION—WAGES—CHILDREN—HOME
AGAIN—RE-EMBARKATION—OFFICIAL DELAY 39

CHAPTER VI.

SABA—CRATER COLONIES—ST. EUSTATIUS—ST. KITTS—BRIMSTONE
HILL—MOUNT MISERY—AN ATMOSPHERE—BASSETERRE—CROWN COLONY
SYSTEM—THE NARROWS—NEVIS—REDONDO—MONTSERRAT—ANTIGUA—ITS HARBOUR
BY MOONLIGHT—GUADELOUPE—MARIEGALANTE—DOMINICA—CARIBS—ISLAND
SCENERY—ROSEAU—FROGS 49

CHAPTER VII.

MARTINIQUE—ST. PIERRE—MUSCULAR FEMALES—FEVER—GRANDE
RUE—TAMARIND AVENUE—SAVANNA—SKETCHING FROM NATURE—BOTANICAL
GARDENS—MOUNTAIN CABBAGE PALM—THE GREAT TROPICAL
FALLACY—WATERFALL—THE LAKE—MUSEUM—A FORSAKEN GARDEN—TO MORNE
ROUGE—COUNTRY LIFE—THE CALVARY 57

CHAPTER VIII.

A GALA DAY—COSTUMES—CINQ-CLOUS—BATTERIE D’ESNOTY—A CASSAVA
FARM—PANDEMONIUM—PREPARATION OF CASSAVA—A “CATCH”—COUNTRY
SCENES—FRESH ATMOSPHERE—A STORM—RAINBOWS—FOREST SCENES—TROPICAL
VEGETATION—NOON-DAY HALT 69

CHAPTER IX.

A CURIO HUNTER—FORT DE FRANCE—BATHS OF DIDIER—DIAMOND
ROCK—FLYING-FISH TRADE—BARBADOES—CARLISLE BAY—HOAD’S—TRAFALGAR
SQUARE—THE ICE-HOUSE—ST. ANN’S—SCOTLAND—CONFEDERATION—COAST OF
TOBAGO—BIRDS OF TOBAGO—FAUNA OF THE WEST INDIES 82

CHAPTER X.

TO TRINIDAD—BOCA DE MONOS—GULF OF PARIA—PORT OF
SPAIN—SAVANNA—BOTANIC GARDENS—A HINDOO VILLAGE—STAPLES—A CACAO
PLANTATION—THE BLUE BASIN—FALLS OF MARACAS—THE PITCH LAKE—START
FOR THE ORINOCO 92

CHAPTER XI.

THE “HEROE DE ABRIL”—APPROACHING THE ORINOCO—MOUTHS
OF THE ORINOCO—THE MACAREO CHANNEL—MACAWS—WATER
LABYRINTHS—GUARANOS—INDIAN CAMP—TROUPIALS—BARRANCAS—LITTLE
VENICE—LAS TABLAS—CARATAL GOLD MINES—VENEZUELA—THE CARONI—ROCKS
OF PORPHYRY—CIUDAD BOLIVAR—PIEDRA MEDIO—ANGOSTURA BITTERS—UPPER
ORINOCO—FEATHER HAMMOCKS 102

CHAPTER XII.

TO GEORGETOWN—FIRST IMPRESSIONS—BATHS—A DROUGHT—STREET
SCENES—AN OIL PAINTING—VICTORIA REGIA—THE CANNON-BALL
TREE—SWIZZLES—A PROVISION OF NATURE—DIGNITY BALLS—CALLING
CRABS—FOUR EYES—KISKIDIS—FEATHER TRADE—COLOURED SUGAR—A
VERSATILE AMERICAN—DEMERARA CRYSTALS—PHYSALIA—OFF TO RORAIMA 120

CHAPTER XIII.

TO THE ESSEQUIBO—BARTICA GROVE—THE PENAL SETTLEMENT—CUYUNI
RIVER—EL DORADO—RALEIGH’S CREDULITY—TENT BOATS—CAMP IN
SHED—CARIA ISLAND—AN ARCHIPELAGO—KOSTERBROKE FALLS—ASCENT OF
CATARACTS—WARIMAMBO RAPIDS—MORA—A NEW YEAST 135

CHAPTER XIV.

A NEW HOUR—MARABUNTAS—SINKING OF THE BURA—ROCK FORMATIONS—ARA
HUMMING-BIRD—FALLS OF YANINZAEC—JABIRU—CABUNI RIVER—SHOOTING
FISH WITH ARROWS—PACU—AN INDIAN CAMP—GREEN-HEART BREAD—INDIAN
LIFE—A PAIWORIE FEAST—DUCKLARS—CURRI-CURRIS—SUN BITTERNS 149

CHAPTER XV.

THE BUSH-MASTER—LABARRI—CAMOODI—WOOD ANTS—TURESIE—A PACU
HUNT—CASHEW TREE—WOODSKINS—PIRAI—SINGING FISH—INDIAN
DANCE—BEADS—FASHION—A RIVER BEND—VIEW OF HILLS—SNIPE—INDIAN
MYTHOLOGY—WANT A DOG—TABLE MOUNTAINS—MERUME RIVER—COURSE OF THE
MAZARUNI 162

CHAPTER XVI.

A FISH HUNT ON LAND—STINGRAYS—THE “CARIBISCE”—TABLE
MOUNTAINS—A RIVER GOD—DESERTED VILLAGES—CURIPUNG RIVER—INDIAN
ENCAMPMENT—INDIAN SUPERSTITION—THE “PEAIMAN”—DURAQUA—EATING
CUSTOMS—ARRIVAL OF LANCEMAN—TRIANGLE OF MOUNTAINS—MACREBAH
FALLS—START ACROSS COUNTRY 175

CHAPTER XVII.

A “DACANA-BALLI”—STRANGE ROCKS—A ROOT PATH—INDIAN
SUPERSTITION—THE CRY OF A LOST SOUL—NEW CARRIERS—A FEATHERED
COSTUME—CURIOUS TREES—COCK OF THE ROCKS—CAMP ON THE LAMUNG—A
BOA-CONSTRICTOR—STENAPARU RIVER—THE CARIAPU—A BURNING TREE—THE
MAZARUNI—CAPTAIN DAVID—PICTURESQUE CAMP 189

CHAPTER XVIII.

AMATEUR BARBERS—AN INDIAN EXQUISITE—MOUTH OF THE CAKO—CAMP
ON VENEZUELAN TERRITORY—TRUMPETERS—MOUNT CAROUTA—REASON
FOR ASCENDING THE CAKO—MARIMA—INDIAN GUIDE—GLIMPSE OF
RORAIMA—THE ARUPARU CREEK—COTINGAS—SAVANNA INDIANS—A WATER
LABYRINTH—AMUSING SCENES—END OF NAVIGATION 204

CHAPTER XIX.

OLD GRANNY’S DESCRIPTION OF THE PATH TO
RORAIMA—TREE-BRIDGES—MONKEY-POTS—BUSH-ROPES—CASHEW
COTTAGE—SAVANNA INDIANS—MAZARUNI—MAGNIFICENT PALMS—BIXA
ORELLANA—COTENGA RIVER—FALLS OF OOKOOTAWIK—VILLAGE OF
MENAPARUTI—MARIKA RIVER—THE SORCERER AGAIN 216

CHAPTER XX.

SAVANNA—RORAIMA AT LAST—APPEARANCE OF THE
MOUNTAIN—WATERFALLS—HEAD OF THE QUATING—TRIBUTARIES OF THE
AMAZON AND THE ESSEQUIBO—KUKENAM—ITS FALL AND RIVER—THE
“PEAIMAN” AGAIN—FALLS OF EKIBIAPU—A CELEBRATION 227

CHAPTER XXI.

CLUSIAS—A MELASTOMA—FOREST TREES—FRESH CAMP—A FLORAL
TREASURY—BRAZILIAN MOUNTAINS—A COLOUR SYMPHONY—RORAIMA’S
EASTERN WALL—NO MEANS OF ASCENT—GOAT-SUCKERS—SOUTHERN WALL
OF RORAIMA—FALL OF KAMAIBA—KUKENAM FALLS—WESTERN SIDE OF
RORAIMA—REASONS FOR RETURNING HOME—SAVANNA FIRE—A STORM 232

CHAPTER XXII.

INDIAN VISITORS—A REWARD TO ASCEND RORAIMA—LAST VIEW
OF RORAIMA—HOW TO ASCEND RORAIMA—MENAPARUTI—A HUNTING
PARTY—CASSIREE—INDIAN PASTIMES—RUMOURS OF WAR—AMARYLLIS—QUATING
RIVER—CASHEW COTTAGE AGAIN—THE ARAPARU—FALSE ALARMS—OLD FRIENDS 245

CHAPTER XXIII.

A PAINFUL WALK—BIRD’S NEST FERNS—DOWN THE CURIPUNG—VOICES
OF THE NIGHT—AN INDIAN FAMILY—A QUICK JOURNEY—SHOOTING THE
FALLS—TIMBER SHOOTS IN CANADA—A LOST CHANNEL—ANTICIPATIONS OF A
FEAST—CAPSIZE—A SWIM FOR LIFE—TEBUCU FALLS—HOME AGAIN 253

CHAPTER XXIV.

FROM SOURCE TO SEA—END OF THE DROUGHT—D’URBAN—A
RACE MEETING—ENTHUSIASTIC COLOURED FOLK—ROYAL MAIL
STEAMERS—VENEZUELANS—CARIBE—CARUPANO—CUMANA—AN EARTHQUAKE
CENTRE—BARCELONA—LLANURAS—LLANERO—PLAINS—LA SILLA 265

CHAPTER XXV.

VIEW OF LA GUAIRA—PROJECTS IN VENEZUELA—LANDING—INDIAN PATH
TO CARACAS—BRILLIANT BEETLES—VIEW FROM CERRO DE AVILA—DESCENT
TO CITY—CLIMATE—AN EARTHQUAKE ALARM—SAD ASPECT OF THE
CITY—MYSTERIOUS POWER OF THE MOON—PERIHELION AND PESTILENCE 275

CHAPTER XXVI.

EL PASEO—HISTORICAL RENOWN—RESERVOIRS—VIEW OF CARACAS—RIVERS
OF PARADISE—COMPARED WITH MEXICO—PLAZA DE BOLIVAR—STATUE OF
THE LIBERATOR—ENTRY INTO CARACAS—FUNERAL CORTEGE—A NATION’S
GRATITUDE 287

CHAPTER XXVII.

THE LEGISLATIVE PALACE—A COMPLIMENT TO THE CAPITOL AT
WASHINGTON—PLAZA DE GUZMAN BLANCO—THE UNIVERSITY—SAN
FELIPE—REMINISCENCES OF HUMBOLDT—A STRANGE DISEASE—PROJECTS IN
VENEZUELA—EARTHQUAKE AT CUA—THE LEGISLATURE—LEAVE FOR LA GUAIRA 295

CHAPTER XXVIII.

CARRIAGE ROAD BETWEEN CARACAS AND LA GUAIRA—THE “COW-TREE”—A
VENEZUELAN SUCCESS—FRENCH MAIL STEAMER—LEAVE LA GUAIRA—PUERTO
CABELLO—GOLFO TRISTE—MILITARY HISTORY—CURACOA—GULF OF
MARACAIBO—SAVANILLA—EMERALD MINES—CLOUDS OF BUTTERFLIES—LEAVE
SAVANILLA 305

CHAPTER XXIX.

TREASURES OF THE DEEP—THE SAN PEDRO ALCANTARA—MARGARITA—SEEKING
LOST TREASURE—OCEAN MINING—NAVY BAY, COLON—INTER-OCEANIC
COMMUNICATION—GOMARA’S PROJECT—NELSON’S SCHEME—THE NICARAGUA
ROUTE—THE ACANTI-TUPISI ROUTE—INTERNATIONAL COMMISSION 313

CHAPTER XXX.

COLON—DEPARTURE—COLUMBUS AND MR. ASPINWALL—RAILWAY ACROSS
ISTHMUS—SCENES ON THE ISTHMUS—TELEGRAPH POSTS—HOLY GHOST
ORCHID—PANAMA HATS—PARADISE—MOUNT ANCON—PACIFIC MAIL STEAMER—ON
THE WHARF AT PANAMA—PANAMA FROM THE SEA—LAST LOOKS 323

APPENDIX 337

RORAIMA.