Chapter I: Preface

A voyage round Cape Horn in a passenger-ship is an event of the past. The necessity for performing this perilous voyage has been obviated by the introduction of railroads and steamships. Emigrants and travelers are no longer obliged to risk their lives and waste their time in passing round the Stormy Cape in order to arrive at a point, which may be reached in a week by a pleasant ride across the continent on the railroad; and Cape Horn is destined to become a terra incognita to all but the readers of ancient voyages.

I am not aware that a narrative of a voyage of this description has ever been published; and the hope that a truthful account of the perils, discomforts, and annoyances, as well as the pleasures and enjoyments attending it, may prove entertaining to the reader, has prompted me to send forth this little work to meet the fate or fortune which an enlightened public may award it.

The scenes and anecdotes recorded at the end of the voyage, are given in the hope that they may possess some slight value as conveying an idea--a vague and indistinct one, perhaps--of some of the characteristics and habits of a portion of the people of California in early times.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Description of the Bark--She sets Sail--Uncomfortable
Situation--Specimen of our Discomforts--A Squall--Escape from
a Waterspout--Approach to the Cape Verde Islands--Religious
Services--A School of Porpoises--A Dutch Vessel--A
Flying-fish--Annoyances--Bad Cooking--A Practical Joke--Tropic of
Cancer 13

CHAPTER II.

Consultations about Cape Verde Islands--Flying-fish--English
Steamer--Tropical Showers--Disappointment--Capture of a
Porpoise--May-Day at Sea--An English Bark--Letters for
Home--Another Bark--Nautical Ceremonies--An Aquatic Bird--Crossing
the Equator--Squalls--A Portuguese Brig--Captain J. engages
to stop at Rio Janeiro--Land Seen--Cape Frio--Approach to Rio
Janeiro--Beautiful Scenery--Disappointment 21

CHAPTER III.

A Mistake Discovered and Corrected--Ill Health--Scenery of the Coast
and Harbor of Rio Janeiro--We cast Anchor--Going Ashore--Rambles
in the City--Fountains--Markets--Parrots--Hammer-headed
Sharks--Monkeys--Slaves--Tropical Trees--Visit to a Hotel--English
Gentlemen--Public Gardens 29

CHAPTER IV.

Visit to the Botanical Garden--Description of the Garden--Dinner
at the Hotel--Third Visit to the City--Impudence of the First
Mate--Village of San Domingo--A Walk in the Country--Attacked by
Dogs--Beautiful Plantations--Civility of a Planter--Elegant Mansion
and Grounds--A Retreat--A Fine Road--Return to the Ship--Supply of
Fruit--The North America--Mr. Kent, our Consul 36

CHAPTER V.

Weigh Anchor--Civility of the People of Rio--Temperance--An
Altercation--Cold Weather--Cape Pigeons--Large Bird--Our Kitchen
Establishment--Stewards and Cooks--Scouse--Inspection of Cooks'
Galley--A Joke--A Squall--An Altercation--Captain J. and Mrs.
L----t--Cape Pigeons--Oranges 46

CHAPTER VI.

A Disagreeable Scene--Scarcity of Oil--Lamps and Slush--An
Albatross--Ill Manners of the Mate--Cold Weather--The Whiffletree
Watch--Disagreeable Scene--Magellan Clouds and Southern Cross--An
Act of Kindness--Turnovers and Sport--Tierra del Fuego and Staten
Land--A Perilous Passage--Ducks and Cape Pigeons--A Squall--A Black
Albatross--Cape Horn--Stormy Weather--A Gale--Accident at the
Breakfast Table 54

CHAPTER VII.

Severe Cold--Furious Storm--Diego Ramirez Islands--Land
Ahead--Cape Horn Weather--Two Vessels--Length of Days and
Nights--Disagreeable Brawl--Heading North--Patagonia--The
Andes--Another Storm--Anxiety of Captain J.--A Lunar
Rainbow--Another Gale--Bill of Fare--Filthy Cooks and
Impure Water 63

CHAPTER VIII.

Captain Jackson--A Drifting Spar--Approaching
Talcahuana--Washing-day--Landscapes--Harbor of
Talcahuana--Pelicans--A Visit from Officials--Description of the
Town--American Houses--Tremont House--A Dinner 72

CHAPTER IX.

Character of the Inhabitants--Agricultural Implements--Lassoing
Cattle--Poncho--A Covered Wagon--Wild Doves--An Earthquake--An
Excursion--Dogs, Women, Children, and Shells--A Scotchman and his
Wine--An Adventure and the Calaboose--A Chilian Musket Fished
Up--An Affecting Incident--Fruit Market--Leave Talcahuana--An
Explanation--Theft in the Cooks' Galley--Disinterested
Advice--Uneasiness of Mrs. L----t and Captain J. 80

CHAPTER X.

Religious Services--A Beautiful Bird--Departure of Cape Pigeons
and Albatrosses--Stormy Petrels--Amusements--Harmony among
the Passengers--Mrs. L----t and her Child--Violence of Captain
J.--Our Chaplain turns Poet--Captain J.'s rest disturbed by the
Passengers--He threatens to blow them through--Sugar--Petty
Annoyances--A Rag Baby--Our Chaplain and his Revolver--
Change of Weather--Uncomfortable Condition of the Main
Cabin--Theft of Raisins--Ship's Stores--Gross Negligence--Great
Waste of Scouse 90

CHAPTER XI.

An Arbitrary Prohibition--Card Playing and Checker
Playing--Dancing--Treachery of Mr. Johnson--Some Passengers--A
Comical Character, and a Pugnacious Character--A Beautiful
Bird--Closing the Hatches--A Question of Jurisdiction--The Hatches
Re-opened--A Sudden Transformation--Neglected Duties of the
Chaplain--His Influence with the Captain 99

CHAPTER XII.

Head Winds--The Dusky Albatross--Tacking Ship--Fishing for
Birds--Amusement of the Mate and Passengers--A Poet--Fair Winds--A
Porpoise--A Fight in the Main Cabin--My Journal--Opinions of Mr.
Johnson--Meeting in the Main Cabin--Schools of Porpoises--Narrow
Escape from Shipwreck--An Act of Charity 107