Chapter XV

PROCEED NORTH--INCIDENTS OF THE ROUTE--A SEVERE TEMPEST OF
RAIN, WHICH SWELLS THE STREAM--CHANGE IN THE GEOLOGY OF THE
COUNTRY--THE ANCIENT COLIGOA OF DE SOTO--A PRIMITIVE AND
MINERAL REGION--ST. MICHAEL--MINE A LA MOTTE--WADE THROUGH
WOLF CREEK--A DESERTED HOUSE--CROSS GRAND RIVER--RETURN TO
POTOSI.

I left my night's quarters before daylight was fairly developed. The sky was, indeed, heavily overcast, and it soon commenced raining. Expecting to find a house at no great distance, I kept on, the rain at the same time assuming a more settled form, and falling with steadiness. It was seven miles before I reached shelter (Swaim's). I was thoroughly wetted, and, the storm continuing without abatement, I remained until the next morning. The atmosphere was then clear, and the sun rose pleasantly; but the roads were a perfect quagmire. An immense body of rain had fallen. Every little rivulet roared as if it were a torrent that was out of all patience to deliver its quantum of water to the swollen St. Francis. The ground was perfectly saturated with water; but I picked my way four miles to breakfast. It had been my intention to cross the St. Francis, and take the route through Caledonia to Potosi; but after travelling sixteen miles towards the north-west, and reaching the fords, I found them too much swollen to make the attempt.

After crossing the St. Francis, towards the north, there are strong indications of a change in the geological structure of the country. The horizontal limestone and sandstone series still continue for a distance; but they are covered with large blocks of sienite and granite. What is remarkable in these blocks, is their angular character, which denotes that they have not been carried far south of their original beds. These blocks increase in frequency and size as we approach the primitive highlands of the St. Francis. And I at length stood, gazing at these rough, red, crystalline peaks, and high orbicular knobs, which reach up from beneath and through the calcareous and sedimentary series, without having lifted up the latter into inclined positions, or in the least disturbing their horizontality--a proof of their priority of position.

I passed the night near the fords, at a farmer's; and finding it impossible, the next morning, to pursue this route, or to get a boat or canoe to cross the river, obtained directions for making my way north-eastwardly, towards St. Michael's. I was now in the probable region of De Soto's Coligoa, the utmost north-westwardly point of his explorations. And it ceased to be a matter of surprise that the Indians had given him such wonderful accounts of the mineral wealth of the sources of the St. Francis. The white inhabitants, at this day, have similar notions. They perceive such an unusual geological display before and around them, that they suppose it indicates mineral treasures. There are stories afloat of all kinds of mineral discoveries--not of gold, indeed, which was De Soto's search, but of tin, lead, copper, iron, cobalt, and antimony. The iron mountains of Bellevieu, so called, are part of this development. At a place called the Narrows, the river rushes between alpine peaks of sienite and black hornblende rock, which lies in huge and confused heaps, plainly indicating ancient volcanic action. I had examined this region, with minuteness, the previous summer, in an excursion through the southern limits of the lead-mines, and now revisited some of the points, respecting which, my curiosity was unsatisfied. I wandered among these attractive peaks about ten miles, and slept at a house (Burdett's), to the occupant of which, I had carried a letter of introduction the year before.

The next day (Feb. 1) proved rainy; but I took advantage of intervals in the weather to advance on my general course about three miles. The sky, the next morning, was still cloudy, dark, and unsettled. When it indicated signs of clearing up, I was advised of another ford of the St. Francis, at a higher point; and I proceeded a part of the way to reach it; but accounts discouraged me, and I bent my steps to the village of St. Michael. Two miles north of this, I came to the noted lead-mine of La Motte, the most southerly in position of the Missouri circle of mines. At this place, they raised large tubular masses of lead-ore, from its position in the red, marly clay. The slags drawn from the ash-furnace denoted, by the intensity of their blue color, its connexion with the oxide of cobalt. Ten miles beyond these mines, after passing an uninhabited tract, I entered Cook's settlement, where I slept.

Next day, I was again in motion at early dawn. The effects of the late copious rains were still an impediment to travelling; but I experienced no further symptoms of lameness, and felt the desire to press on, increasing in proportion as I drew near my starting-point in the prior autumn. I felt that I had succeeded in the accomplishment of a trip of some peril, through a noted mountainous range, into which all but one of my original party had failed to accompany me, and my guides had deserted me at a moment of peculiar peril. It was also true that my only companion had rather abruptly left me, when taken lame on the road. I could not, as I approached the spot of organizing my party for this exploration, help feeling a degree of buoyancy of spirits, while returning to it, in the hope of again meeting familiar acquaintances face to face.

Under this impulse, and with the high health produced by daily exercise, I travelled ten miles on the following day. On reaching Wolf creek, it was found to be filled to overflowing. It was already dark; and a ruinous, tenantless house, with the doors and windows standing open, was the only object that presented itself on the opposite bank. Horse or canoe, there was none; but there could be no hesitation in attempting to cross it. The waters, in the deepest parts of the channel, reached to my breast. I came out, of course, dripping; it was still two miles to the next house, and, casting furtive glances at the masses of darkness in the deserted dwelling, and with a path muddy and indistinct, I hurried on to the point of my destination.

It was the 4th of February when I crossed Big river, the Grande river of the days of Crozat and the financier Law. I was carried across it in the ferry-boat, and took my way over the sylvan, long, sweeping mineral hills, which stretch toward Potosi, entering that busy town at a seasonable hour, having travelled fifteen miles. The first acquaintance I encountered, on reaching within a few miles of it, was a Major Hawkins--a surveyor, an old resident, and a good woodsman, who, cordially extending his hand to welcome my return, exclaimed, "I thought the Indians or the wolves had long ago eaten you up." This was the first intimation I received that there had been any temerity in the plan for this expedition.

Potosi was now selected as the place for drawing up an account of the mines, and the mineralogical productions and resources, of the country--a memoir on which, was published at New York in the autumn of this year (1819), and which is inserted, in a revised form, in the Appendix to these sketches.

PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE WEST.

TWO LETTERS ADDRESSED TO THE HON. J. B. THOMAS, U. S. SENATE, WASHINGTON.

I.

POTOSI, Missouri, Feb. 9th, 1819.

SIR: I beg leave to address you on the subject of my recent expedition into the Ozark region. When I was at your house at Cahokia, I mentioned to you my design of making a tour into the interior of the Territory. I have just returned from the excursion. Two persons were associated with me in the enterprise; but one of them, our mutual friend, Mr. Brigham, was compelled by illness to relinquish the journey, and return, after he had reached Potosi.

We proceeded in a south-west direction, which carried us across the sources of the Maramec and Gasconade. We then entered on the elevated highlands, which alternately pour their waters into the Missouri and Mississippi rivers, reaching, in their development, to the Washita river. Through this rough alpine range, the Arkansas, rising in the Rocky mountains, penetrates, and is the only river that completely separates the chain. Our explorations were confined to the region lying on its northern banks. Winter overtook us on the sources of the White river, giving us a few days of severe weather, but offering, generally, no impediment to travelling. There is much that is most striking and picturesque in the scenery of this region, and not less in its productions and physical character. Nowhere, probably, on the globe, is there such a remarkable succession of limestone caverns, and large, transparent springs. At several places, large brooks flow abruptly out of crevices in the rock; and at one place, a flowing stream, Spring river, thus originates. We found the ores of lead, iron, and manganese, in large bodies. The high uplands are often rent by precipitous valleys and large chasms, caused by the force of these streams. These valleys are well wooded, and contain the richest soil. And this broad region must at no distant day attract settlement, and will afford facilities for agriculture and mining, while its abundant water-power gives it great advantages for milling and manufactures.

The country is a continuation of the limestone and sandstone formations of the west banks of the Mississippi. The number and extent of the caverns in this formation, is, indeed, remarkable. They yield saltpetre earth, wherever they have been explored. Nitrate of potash has been manufactured in some of these caves, and transported across the wilderness for eighty miles; and a valuable traffic in this article may be established. In the district between the head-waters of White river and the Arkansas, salt is found, in a crystallized state, in the prairies. The region is still occupied by herds of the buffalo, elk, deer, and by the bear, and smaller animals of the latitude, which renders it an attractive country to hunters and trappers.

The Osage Indians, who inhabit it, are the cause of fear and alarm to this class; but it did not appear to us, from the sparse numbers of the Indians, and the periodical flying visits they are in the habit of making the eastern and northern parts of it, that there is ground of permanent apprehension from this source. The policy of locating the Cherokees on the north banks of the Arkansas, may well be questioned; and I have heard this arrangement much spoken against.

Indeed, the agricultural value of the country has been much underrated. Independent of the mineral discoveries mentioned, the arable lands of the Ozark summit-level constitute one of the richest and most beautiful districts in the Territory. The high grass and flowers which cover the prairie-lands, impart the most sylvan aspect to the scene. Springs of the purest water abound, and, by avoiding the chasms, the country is susceptible of being traversed by roads. It only requires to be better known, to attract the notice of emigrants, and will some day bear a great population. I do not doubt that the high road from St. Louis to Fort Smith will probably cross this tract of country. Such a route must greatly shorten the distance.

I cannot refer you to a correct map of the country, and therefore enclose you a sketch, explanatory of my route. From a conversation with Mr. Brigham, I cannot mistake your friendly influence in these explorations. I am desirous to extend them to other parts of the frontiers. I understand that the Secretary of War entertains enlarged and enlightened views on the subject. I should be pleased to be employed in this branch of the public service.

I am, with respect, your ob't serv't,
HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT.

II.

POTOSI, Feb. 15, 1819.

SIR: I had the honor, on the 9th instant, to address you on the subject of my journey into the region of the Ozarks. You will allow me again to trouble you on the subject of explorations.

Government has long been acquainted, by reports, with the existence of native copper on the Upper Mississippi, and the banks of lake Superior. I believe the attempt was made about 1798, to have the localities explored. I know not what success attended that attempt. Probably the remoteness of the country, and the hostility of the Indian tribes, were unfavorable. But I am persuaded that the object is one of importance.

The mineralogy of those regions became the topic of early interest, even in the days of the French supremacy. Copper appears to characterize an extensive area. It is stated to break out in the immediate vicinity of St. Anthony's falls, and to continue through to the southern shores of lake Superior. In its exploration, other traits of the natural history of the country would be developed.

The establishment of a military post at St. Anthony's falls, renders the present a favorable time for exploring the region. Its features and resources are objects of deep interest; and it appears to be the policy of the government, in the disposition of its western and northern posts, to prepare the way for ascertaining these traits at the earliest period. The position of the most advanced posts which are now in the process of location, is such as to afford great facilities for exploration. The hostilities of the Indians are repressed, and a survey of these parts of the public domain could now be effected with comparative safety, and at little expense.

Should you think the appointment of an agent for this purpose, to accompany some of the military movements, would be favorably received by the Secretary of War, may I indulge the hope that, in recommending it, you will remember me in the premises?

I am, with respect, your ob't serv't,
HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT.