Chapter I: Front Matter

List of Illustrations

Full Page Illustrations

1. FOG-BOW SEEN FROM THE MATTERHORN ON JULY 14, 1885 2. MONT PELVOUX AND THE ALÉFROIDE, FROM NEAR MONT DAUPHIN 3. THE MONT CENIS ROAD AND THE FELL RAILWAY NEAR THE SUMMIT OF THE PASS, ON THE ITALIAN SIDE 4. THE MATTERHORN FROM NEAR THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS 5. “THE CHIMNEY” 6. “IN ATTEMPTING TO PASS THE CORNER I SLIPPED AND FELL” 7. A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN (1862) 8. THE CRAGS OF THE MATTERHORN, DURING THE STORM, MIDNIGHT, AUGUST 10, 1863 9. DESCENDING THE WESTERN ARÊTE OF THE POINTE DES ÉCRINS 10. “WE SAW A TOE—IT SEEMED TO BELONG TO MOORE—WE SAW REYNAULD A FLYING BODY.” 11. THE SUMMIT OF THE MOMING PASS IN 1861 12. THE CLUB-ROOM OF ZERMATT IN 1864 13. THE BERGSCHRUND ON THE DENT BLANCHE IN 1865 14. THE MATTERHORN FROM THE RIFFELBERG 15. THE GRANDES JORASSES AND THE DOIRE TORRENT, VAL FERRET (D’ITALIE) 16. THE SUMMIT OF THE COL DOLENT 17. PINNACLES NEAR SACHAS IN THE VALLEY OF THE DURANCE, FORMED FROM AN OLD MORAINE

In the Text

Beachy Head The Devil of Notre Dame Mules A Curé in Difficulties Which is the Brute? At the St. Bernard “Garibaldi!” Briançon Mont Pelvoux from above La Bessée In the Val d’Alefred The Grand Pelvoux de Val Louise Buttresses of Mont Pelvoux Portrait of R.J.S. Macdonald Outline to Show Route up Mont Pelvoux The Blanket Bag Natural Pillar near Molines Crossing Mont Cenis The Little Postilion The Centre Rail on a Curve Section of the Fell Railway The Covered Ways of the Fell Railway The Centre Rail Break The Matterhorn from the north-east Portrait of J.J. Bennen Portrait of Jean-Antoine Carrel The Col du Lion: Looking towards the Tête du Lion Diagram to show manner of fastening Tent-poles Alpine Tent Climbing Claw Rope and Ring At Breil (Giomein) The Matterhorn from Breil “But what is this?” An Arch of the Aqueduct in the Val Tournanche Water-worn Rocks in the Gorge below the Gorner Glacier Striations produced by Glacier action “Carrel lowered me down” Portrait of Monsieur Favre Crossing the Channel Portrait of Michel-Auguste Croz The Aiguilles d’Arve from above Chalets of Rieu Blanc Portrait of Melchior Anderegg Map of the Brèche de la Meije, etc. The Vallon des Etançons Map of the Central Dauphiné Alps The Pointe des Ecrins from the Col du Galibier Outline to show Route up Pointe des Ecrins Fragment from the Summit of the Pointe des Ecrins A Night with Croz A Snow Couloir Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day Our Camp on Mont Suc Ice-Avalanche on the Moming Pass Part of the Southern Ridge of the Grand Cornier Part of the Northern Ridge of the Grand Cornier Portrait of Leslie Stephen Portrait of T.S. Kennedy Diagrams to show Dip of Strata on the Matterhorn My Tent-bearer—The Hunchback The Bouquetin A Crétin of Aosta My Ice-axe Kennedy Ice-axe Crampon Portrait of Christian Almer On the Mer de Glace Ice-Pinnacles on the Mer de Glace Western Side of the Col de Talèfre Glissading The Wrong Way to use a Rope on Glacier The Right Way to use a Rope on Glacier “Croz! Croz!! Come here” The Summit of the Matterhorn The Actual Summit of the Matterhorn in 1865 Rope broken on the Matterhorn Portrait of Monsieur Seiler Manilla Rope broken on the Matterhorn The “Second” Rope broken on the Matterhorn The End