Chapter 1

Leave Beyrout.--Camp afloat.-Rhodes.--The shores of the Mediterranean suitable for the cultivation of the arts.--A Moslem of the new school.--American Presbyterian clergyman.--A Mexican senator.--A sermon for sailors.--Smyrna.--Buyukdere.--Sir Stratford Canning.--Embark for Bulgaria.

CHAPTER II.

Varna.--Contrast of Northern and Southern provinces of Turkey.--Roustchouk.--Conversation with Deftendar.--The Danube.--A Bulgarian interior.--A dandy of the Lower Danube.--Depart for Widdin.

CHAPTER III.

River steaming.--Arrival at Widdin.--Jew.--Comfortless khan.--Wretched appearance of Widdin.--Hussein Pasha.--M. Petronievitch.--Steam balloon.

CHAPTER IV.

Leave Widdin.--The Timok.--Enter Servia.--Brza Palanka.--The Iron Gates.--Old and New Orsova.--Wallachian Matron.--Semlin.--A conversation on language.

CHAPTER V.

Description of Belgrade.--Fortifications.--Street and street population.--Cathedral.--Large square.--Coffee-house.--Deserted villa.--Baths.

CHAPTER VI.

Europeanization of Belgrade.--Lighting and paving.--Interior of the fortress.--Turkish Pasha.--Turkish quarter.--Turkish population.--Panorama of Belgrade.--Dinner party given by the prince.

CHAPTER VII.

Return to Servia.--The Danube.--Semlin.--Wucics and Petronievitch.--Cathedral solemnity.--Subscription ball.

CHAPTER VIII.

Holman, the blind traveller.--Milutinovich, the poet.--Bulgarian legend.--Tableau de genre.--Departure for the interior.

CHAPTER IX.

Journey to Shabatz.--Resemblance of manners to those of the middle ages.--Palesh.--A Servian bride.--Blind minstrel.--Gipsies.--Macadamized roads.

CHAPTER X.

Shabatz.--A provincial chancery.--Servian collector.--Description of his house.--Country barber.--Turkish quarter.--Self-taught priest.--A provincial dinner.--Native soiree.

CHAPTER XI.

Kaimak.--History of a renegade.--A bishop's house.--Progress of education.--Portrait of Milosh.--Bosnia and the Bosnians.--Moslem fanaticism.--Death of the collector.

CHAPTER XII.

The banat of Matchva.--Losnitza.--Feuds on the frontier.--Enter the back-woods.--Convent of Tronosha.--Greek festival.--Congregation of peasantry.--Rustic finery.

CHAPTER XIII.

Romantic sylvan scenery.--Patriarchal simplicity of manners.--Krupena.--Sokol.--Its extraordinary position.--Wretched town.--Alpine scenery.--Cool reception.--Valley of the Rogatschitza.

CHAPTER XIV.

The Drina.--Liubovia.--Quarantine station.--Derlatcha.--A Servian beauty.--A lunatic priest.--Sorry quarters.--Murder by brigands.

CHAPTER XV.

Arrival at Ushitza.--Wretched street.--Excellent khan.--Turkish vayvode.--A Persian dervish.--Relations of Moslems and Christians.--Visit the castle.--Bird's eye view.

CHAPTER XVI.

Poshega.--The river Morava.--Arrival at Csatsak.--A Viennese doctor.--Project to ascend the Kopaunik.--Visit the bishop.--Ancient cathedral church.--Greek mass.--Karanovatz.--Emigrant priest.--Albanian disorders.--Salt mines.

CHAPTER XVII.

Coronation church of the ancient kings of Servia.--Enter the Highlands.--Valley of the Ybar.--First view of the High Balkan.--Convent of Studenitza.--Byzantine Architecture.--Phlegmatic monk.--Servian frontier.--New quarantine.--Russian major.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Cross the Bosniac frontier.--Gipsy encampment.--Novibazar described.--Rough reception.--Precipitate departure.--Fanaticism.

CHAPTER XIX.

Ascent of the Kopaunik.--Grand prospect.--Descent of the Kopaunik.--Bruss.--Involuntary bigamy.--Conversation on the Servian character.--Krushevatz.--Relics of monarchy.

CHAPTER XX.

Formation of the Servian monarchy.--Contest between the Latin and Greek Churches.--Stephen Dushan.--A great warrior.--Results of his victories.--Kucs Lasar.--Invasion of Amurath.--Battle of Kossovo.--Death of Lasar and Amurath.--Fall of the Servian monarchy.--General observations.

CHAPTER XXI.

A battue missed.--Proceed to Alexinatz.--Foreign-Office courier.--Bulgarian frontier.--Gipsy Suregee.--Tiupria.--New bridge and macadamized roads.

CHAPTER XXII.

Visit to Ravanitza.--Jovial party.--Servian and Austrian jurisdiction.--Convent described.--Eagles reversed.--Bulgarian festivities.

CHAPTER XXIII.

Manasia.--Has preserved its middle-age character.--Robinson Crusoe.--Wonderful echo.--Kindness of the people.--Svilainitza.--Posharevatz.--Baby giantess.

CHAPTER XXIV.

Rich soil.--Mysterious waters.--Treaty of Passarovitz.--The castle of Semendria.--Relics of the antique.--The Brankovitch family.--Panesova.--Morrison's pills.

CHAPTER XXV.

Personal appearance of the Servians.--Their moral character.--Peculiarity of manners.--Christmas festivities.--Easter.--The Dodola.

CHAPTER XXVI.

Town life.--The public offices.--Manners half-oriental half-European.--Merchants and tradesmen.--Turkish population.--Porters.--Barbers.--Cafes.--Public writer.

CHAPTER XXVII.

Poetry.--Journalism.--The fine arts.--The Lyceum.--Mineralogical cabinet.--Museum.--Servian Education.

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Preparations for departure.--Impressions of the East.--Prince Alexander.--The palace.--Kara Georg.

CHAPTER XXIX.

A memoir of Kara Georg.

CHAPTER XXX.

Milosh Obrenovitch.

CHAPTER XXXI.

The prince.--The government.--The senate.--The minister for foreign affairs.--The minister of the interior.--Courts of justice.--Finances.

CHAPTER XXXII.

Agriculture and commerce.

CHAPTER XXXIII.

The foreign agents.

CHAPTER XXXIV.

VIENNA IN 1844.

Improvements in Vienna.--Palladian style.--Music.--Theatres.--Sir Robert Gordon.--Prince Metternich.--Armen ball.--Dancing.--Strauss.--Austrian policy.

CHAPTER XXXV.

Concluding observations on Austria and her prospects.

SERVIA.