Chapter III: The History of Siwa

FIRST PERIOD. THE TEMPLE OF JUPITER AMMON

The Siwan Deity — A local religion — Legendary origin of
the God — Herodotus — The Kingdom of the Ammonians —
Lysander’s visit — Cambyses — A lost army — Cimon’s
death foretold — The “Fountain of the Sun” — The temples
— The King’s court — The temple to-day — Alexander visits
Siwa — His adventures on the way — Ritual of the temple —
Decline of its fame — Strabo’s theory — The Romans —
Christianity 74

SECOND PERIOD. MEDIÆVAL SIWA

Arab invasion of Egypt — Attempts to subjugate the oasis —
Arab historians — The marvels of Siwa — Hidden cities —
Emerald mines — Siwans become Mohammedans — King Rashwan
— “The Thirty” — Sidi Suliman — Legends about him —
Style of living — Quarrel between east and west — Civil wars
— Recent disturbance — Browne at Siwa — Hornemann 89

THIRD PERIOD. THE TURKISH RULE

Invasion of Siwa — Hassein Bey — Colonel Butin — Ali Balli,
the Omda — Hamilton at Siwa, his imprisonment — Punitive
expedition — Death of Yousif Ali — Turkish mamurs — A
desert firebrand — “The Widow’s War” — Osman Habun
— Abdel Arti, smuggler — Death of “The Habun” 102

FOURTH PERIOD. SIWA AND THE WAR

The Italians in Tripoli — German intrigues — The Senussi
confraternity — Mohammed el Senussi, his life at Siwa — Caves
of the Kasr Hassuna — Growth of the Senussi — Mohammed el
Mahdi — Sayed Ahmed — The situation in 1915 — Evacuation
of Sollum — Capture of the crew of the _Tara_ — Matruh —
Battle on Christmas Day — Wadi Majid — Battle of Agagia and
occupation of Barrani — Sayed Ahmed at Siwa — Occupation
of Sollum — Sayed Ahmed goes to Dakhla and back — Siwans
revolt — Battle of Girba — Occupation of Siwa — Rescue
of _Tara_ crew by Duke of Westminster — Sayed Ahmed retires
to Constantinople 117

CHAPTER IV

SIWA TOWN

The town — Architecture — Wells — Custom of whitewash —
Date Markets — Mosques — School — Shops — Interior of
houses — The Roofs — “Dululas” — The Siwan race —
Men — Women — Appearance — Clothes — Religious sects —
Springs, gardens, irrigation, water rights — Salt lakes —
Fever — Spring cleaning — “Sultan Mousa” — A luncheon
party — The ceremony of tea — Appetites — Dog eaters —
Life of an Englishman in Siwa — Two “cases” — Women
witnesses — Bakshish 133

CHAPTER V

SUBURBAN OASES

Zeitoun and Kareished — The oasis of Gara — The village —
The curse of Sheikh Abdel Sayed — A legend of Gara — The
Mejberry pass — El Areg and Bahrein — The Arabs of Maragi
— The northern oases — Jerabub — Sheikh Ithneini and his
treasures — _Terra incognita_ — Kufra — Excavating in
Siwa — The “Oldest Inhabitant” his wedding — Industries,
baskets, mats, and earthenware — The “Bedouin Industries”
— Animals and birds — Snakes, snake charming 177

CHAPTER VI

CUSTOMS AND SUPERSTITIONS

Belief in Superstitions — Divine and Satanic magic — Demons
— A birthday — Naming the child — Women — Marriage and
divorce — A wedding, the bride’s bath, fetching the bride,
presents — “Ghrula,” customs of a widow — The Town Crier
— Funerals — Cemeteries — Evil Eye, charms to avert the
curse — A visit to a witch — Methods used to obtain a husband
— Invoking demons — Discovering stolen property — Exposing
a thief — Divination and fortune telling — Sacrificing a bull
— The Pilgrimage, rolling the bangles, to ensure a safe journey
— “Yom el Asher,” the children’s “Christmas” 207