Chapter I: Front Matter

Elchee's lectures--Mehmandar's journal--Arab
nurse--Blue-Beard--Persian ceremony--King's picture 37

CHAPTER VII.
Mountaineers--Valley of Kazeroon--Virtue of Nitric Acid--Rizâ Kooli
Khan's loss of eyes--Extraordinary birds--Beautiful valley of
Desht-e-Arjun--Mahomet Rizâ Khan Byat--Irish patriotism--Persian
squire 45

CHAPTER VIII.
Principal characters of the mission--Mahomed Hoosein
Khan--Jaffier Ali Khan--Meerzâ Aga Meer--Mahomed Hoosein--Hajee
Hoosein--Candidates for the Elchee's favour 53

CHAPTER IX.
Importance of forms--Description of those used at visits in
Persia--Difficulties on this subject--Happy termination of a battle
of ceremonies between the first mission and the petty court of
Shiraz--Persian society--Fables and Apologues 62

CHAPTER X.
Fable of the two cats--Preamble to Persian treaty--Apologues from
Sâdee--Letter from Nizâm-ool-Moolk to Mahomed Shâh--Death of
Yezdijird 77

CHAPTER XI.
Shiraz--Shaikh-ool-Islûm, or Chief Judge--Story of
Ald-ool-Kadir--Entertainments--Derveesh Seffer--Story of Abdûlla of
Khorassan--Persian poet 87

CHAPTER XII.
Persian servants--Departure from Shiraz--Persepolis--Tale of the
labours of Roostem--Anecdote of a sportsman 105

CHAPTER XIII.
Travellers and Antiquaries--Wild
Ass--Hawking--Mâder-e-Sûlimân--Akleed--Mirrors--Mehdee
Khan--Isfahan--Persian citizens and peasantry--Shâh Abbas the
Great--Hâroon-oor-Rasheed--Nethenz 123

CHAPTER XIV.
Cashan--Scorpions--Câshânee youth--Village of Sinsin--Plundering
expeditions of the Tûrkâmâns--Account of that tribe--Wandering
tribes--Visit to the dwelling of Mihrâb Khan--Afshâr--Account of
his family and adherents--Anecdote of Kerreem Khan 145

CHAPTER XV.
Arrival at Koom--Mahomedan ladies--their rights and privileges
after marriage--Divorces--Story of Hajee Salâh, the cross-grained
161

CHAPTER XVI.
Departure from Koom--Poolee-Dellâk--Deryâ-e-Kebeer--Valley of the
Shadow of Death--Story of a Ghool--Remarks on Persian poetry 180

CHAPTER XVII.
Distant view of Teheran--Demavend--Rhe--Entrance into the
capital--Hajee Ibrahim--Zâl Khan--Terms of courtesy 197

CHAPTER XVIII.
Terms of reception at court--Second visit--Delivery
of presents--King's grant--Private interviews--King's
ancestors--Crown jewels--King's love of a joke--Mode of passing his
time--Harem--Royal meals--Hajee Ibrahim--His character and death
207

CHAPTER XIX.
Progress of the Russians--Buonaparte--Second visit to
Tullanea--King Abbas Meerzâ--Reflections--Electrifying
machine--Phantasmagoria--Ministers of the Persian court--Mahomed
Hoosein Khan Mervee 225