Chapter XLIII: Introduction: This Part of the Work, Though the Last, I Consider (4)

After doubting many of your enthusiastic views as to cooking, I
acknowledge that I am fairly beaten. Every one to his trade.

Yours very truly, C. A. WINDHAM, _Major-General, Commander of Staff_.

CAMP, FIRST DIVISION, _May 25th, 1856_.

MONSIEUR SOYER,--I accept, with many thanks, the portable
cooking-stove you have been kind enough to present me; and I
perceive it will henceforth be the means of my eating after a
civilized fashion, so long as I have a coat-pocket to carry it in.

I beg your acceptance of an inkstand, made with a Russian
grapeshot. It bears upon its surface the proof of having been
projected during the siege, and will, therefore, serve you as a
lasting reminiscence of your sojourn in the camp.

I also hope it will cause you to bear in mind the assurance of the
value I attach to all the exertions and arrangements you have made
to ameliorate the position of our brave soldiers, by teaching them
to utilize their rations, and improve the cooking of their
food--formerly so often spoiled or wasted.

Pray accept the assurance of my highest consideration.

ROKEBY.

HEAD-QUARTERS, SCUTARI, _May, 1856_.

DEAR MONSIEUR SOYER,--Many thanks for your obliging letter of the
29th April.

I thank you for the trouble you have taken with Marshal Pelissier,
and am much flattered by the cordial acknowledgment of his
Excellency. Should you have occasion to see him again, pray tell
him so.

I sincerely compliment you upon the success of your stoves. The
British army owes you much; and I assure you we are highly
sensible of the value of your devotion, and the disinterested and
honourable sentiments you have displayed.

Our system of military cookery much required reform, and in
introducing a new one you have rendered us immense service.

Pray accept, my dear Monsieur Soyer, the assurance of my esteem and
highest consideration.

H. K. STORKS, _Brigadier-General_.

LIGHT DIVISION CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _June 7th, 1856_.

General Lord William Paulet, commanding Light Division, having
inspected the camp cooking-stoves issued by Monsieur Soyer for
trial to the ten regiments composing his division, has much
pleasure in stating that they answer in every respect. They consume
not a quarter so much fuel; they boil the meat more regularly, and
the vegetables, and therefore make better soup; they never smoke,
which is invariably the case with all barrack cook-houses. You can
use them either out of doors or inside, and would prove useful in
all standing camps or barracks; and may be issued to the troops
according to the number required occupying a barrack, and the
remainder being kept in store, they being so portable.

Lord William would like to see them in all quarters occupied by
troops where the cook-houses are not good, and the saving of fuel
would pay the expense.

SCUTARI BARRACKS HOSPITAL, _April 9th, 1855_.

It gives me great pleasure to testify, after visiting Monsieur
Soyer’s kitchen in the above establishment, and comparing the
quality and economy of the many excellent preparations made for the
use of the sick, that those prepared from his formulæ are very
superior to those previously supplied.

I consider, if the suggestions of Monsieur Soyer be acted on, that
he will have conferred a great boon on the sick and convalescent
soldier, and for such improvement will deserve the thanks of every
person having feeling for the British soldier, and who desires to
ameliorate his condition.

HUGH BIRT, F.R.C.S.E., _Civil Surgeon of the 1st Class to the Scutari Hospital_.

HYDER PASHA HOSPITALS, SCUTARI, _May 1st, 1855_.

This is to certify that Monsieur Soyer has, in his visits to the
above hospitals, rendered a very important service, by clearly
demonstrating that the dietary for the sick may, by his improved
method of cooking, be greatly enhanced in value by making it, out
of the usual materials, more nutritious, more palatable, and more
advantageous for every purpose.

H. G. W. MACELLERY,

_1st Class S. Surgeon, Superintending Medical Officer, Hyder Pasha Hospitals_.

BALAKLAVA, _June 15th, 1855_.

MY DEAR SIR,--In reply to your letter of the 7th instant, there
will be no difficulty whatever in giving to the troops occasionally
salt beef and pork on the same day, should they wish it.

Trusting soon to have the pleasure of seeing you in the Crimea,

I remain, yours very truly, WILLIAM FILDER.

A. Soyer, Esq., &c. &c. &c.

_June 16th, 1855._

MY DEAR SIR,--I am much obliged to you for the trouble you have
taken in my behalf, and feel confident that any arrangement entered
into by you will be as excellent as the other results I have
witnessed, of that ability and energy by which our poor fellows
have so much benefited. I will deliver your message to Colonel
Daniell.

Believe me, my dear Sir, yours very truly, J. W. CARLETON.

_3rd September, 1855._

MY DEAR SIR,--I was not well the day of your former feast, which
unfortunately deprived me of the pleasure of tasting your good
things; and to-day I am compelled to go down to Balaklava to see
after stores for the troops embarking for Kertch. But I know all
will do well under your able direction, and hereafter I shall have
the satisfaction of witnessing the beneficial results of your
labours in the camp kitchens.

Sincerely yours, J. HALL.

PURVEYOR-IN-CHIEF’S OFFICE, SCUTARI,

_August 8th, 1855_.

MY DEAR SIR,--I have much pleasure in acknowledging the receipt of
your letter. If I have done anything to help you, it is because I
have seen it to be my duty to the public, and because your
admirable arrangements have all the object of making the sick man
delight in his diet, which, I fear, was not the case previous to
your arrival.

I can, perhaps, more than any one appreciate the good you have
done. Why, then, should I not heart and soul help you in an object,
the attainment of which induced you to leave England?--viz., the
good of the soldier.

Go on, and success to you. I will endeavour to help you as much as
I can at Balaklava, as I have felt it my duty and pleasure to do
here.

I am, my dear Sir, yours truly, J. SCOTT ROBERTSON.

Monsieur Alexis Soyer, Balaklava.

GUARDS’ CAMP, FIRST DIVISION, SEBASTOPOL, _October 16th, 1855_.

I hereby acknowledge the receipt of five of Monsieur A. Soyer’s
field-kitchens or camp stoves, which are now in active use by the
cooks of the Coldstream Guards. And I hereby further acknowledge
the receipt of a sixth camp-stove from Monsieur Soyer, for the use
of the hospital of the said regiment. I cannot speak too highly in
praise of these camp-kitchens for the great comfort and convenience
they afford, the great economy and diminution of fuel, whether
placed in the open air or under cover, and enabling the cooks to
soak their salt meat properly; also to make puddings of rice and
other things; and in cases of emergency, any quantity of
rice-water, barley-water, or lemonade can be made, as well as soup,
beef-tea, &c. If split peas were issued as rations by the
Commissariat once or twice a week, when salt pork and beef are
given, it would be a great addition to the soldier’s comfort, as
well as a most wholesome and nutritious food, and very strongly
recommended by Monsieur Soyer. Speaking for the Brigade of Guards,
which I have the honour at this time to command, I have to thank
Monsieur Soyer for all his kindness, and the very great boon he has
given us by granting us the use of his stoves, which are the models
for the rest of the army in the Crimea.

GORDON DRUMMOND, Colonel, _Commanding Brigade of Guards_.

Monsieur A. Soyer, Guards’ Encampment, Sebastopol.

BALAKLAVA, _9th Dec., 1855_.

DEAR MONSIEUR SOYER,--I am favoured with your letter of 29th ult.,
and am glad to hear so favourable a report of the compressed
vegetables which have recently arrived out.

I sent to Constantinople some time ago for a supply of haricot
beans, with, the view to being issued with salt pork, as you
recommended; and their introduction generally will be greatly
benefited by your personal superintendence and advice, as you
propose.

We shall all have great pleasure in seeing you here again, and
availing ourselves of your valuable suggestions and services.

The winter has fairly set in, after two months of beautiful
weather. Cold, damp, and discomfort prevail to a certain extent,
and we move about in a sea of mud; but, as a set-off, we have
abundance of supplies of all kinds, including fuel--the men are
well clothed, and the erection of the huts is well advanced,
notwithstanding their late arrival and the difficulty in
transporting them to the front.

I remain, dear Monsieur Soyer,

Yours very faithfully, GEO. MACLEAN.

Monsieur Soyer, &c., Scutari.

P. S.--I have written for a six months’ supply of Chorlet’s
compressed vegetables as a reserve, and to guard against unforeseen
contingencies. We have fresh vegetables, potatoes, and onions, more
regularly; but cannot always expect this will continue. The
quantity sent for will be about 10,000,000 of rations.--G. M.

CAMP, _May 11th, 1856_.

SIR,--One of your cooking-stoves was tried by me yesterday and
to-day.

It answers to perfection; I never tasted better soup than was this
day made by a soldier out of _the regular rations_.

The quantity of fuel saved by this stove is enormous.

I trust that your information is correct--viz., that Government
have made arrangements to supply the army with these
cooking-stoves.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your obedient servant, ALEXANDER MAXWELL, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 46th Regiment_.

Monsieur Alexis Soyer.

CAMP, SEVASTOPOL, _May 21st, 1856_.

MY DEAR MONSIEUR SOYER,--I can have no hesitation in saying that
your stove is the best I have seen, and the men of my regiment are
very much pleased with it.

I think you told me that ovens could be fitted to them also; if so,
they will be a boon conferred on the British soldier, which he
will, I am sure, highly appreciate.

Yours very faithfully,

B. DAUBENEY, _Commanding 55th Regiment_.

CAMP, NEAR SEBASTOPOL, _May 23rd, 1856_.

SIR,--I have the honour to report that the result of the
experimental cooking by Monsieur Soyer’s stove and boiler has been
most satisfactory.

The small quantity of fuel required is a great advantage, a small
stick carried by each man of a company would afford sufficient fuel
to cook a meal.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your most obedient humble servant, W. SPARKE, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 38th Regiment_.

The Major of Brigade.

CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _May 25th, 1856_.

SIR,--I have to acknowledge your letter of this morning, and have
much pleasure in stating that during the short period we had the
opportunity of using your field-stove, nothing could be more
satisfactory, both in its superiority as a means of cooking a large
quantity of rations in a short time, and also from the small
quantity of fuel used in doing so. I must also give it as my
opinion, that it is admirably suited for operations in the field,
but requires to have the outer casing protected in some way;
probably an open netting of iron wire would do so, with a couple of
loops, so that two stoves could be attached and carried by one mule
or horse.

I remain, Sir,

Yours very faithfully, RAMSAY STUART, _Lieutenant-Colonel 21st Fusiliers_.

Alexis Soyer, Esq., &c. &c. &c., Crimea.

CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _26th May, 1856_.

SIR,--I beg leave to state that I approve most highly of your
field-stoves.

Each company in my regiment has had good opportunities of fully
testing their qualities; and both in the cooking of fresh and salt
meat have been found to answer the purpose for which they were
intended, remarkably well.

I have the honor to be, Sir,

Your most obedient humble servant, B. RILEY, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 48th Regiment_.

Monsieur A. Soyer.

FOURTH DIVISION, CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _26th May, 1856_.

MONSIEUR SOYER,--In reply to your letter of the 21st of this month,
relative to the field-stoves, I beg to state that the stove has
been tried by the 57th Regiment, and I am of opinion that it is
well adapted for the purpose intended.

It affords every facility for cooking, and saves a considerable
quantity of fuel; and two of the stoves to one company on the march
would be far preferable to the camp-kettles now in use.

I have the honour to be,

JOHN A. STREET, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 57th Regiment_.

Monsieur Soyer, Fourth Division.

CAMP, SEVASTOPOL, _27th May, 1856_.

SIR,--I have the honour to state, for the information of the
Major-General commanding the Fourth Division, that Monsieur Soyer’s
cooking-stove has been tried in the 57th Regiment, and I am of
opinion that it is well adapted for the purpose intended; there is
a very considerable saving of fuel, and little difficulty in
cooking; and two stoves per company would be far preferable to the
camp-kettles now in use.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your obedient servant, JOHN A. STREET, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 57th Regiment_.

Lieut.-Col. Smith, A.A.G., Fourth Division.

CAMP BEFORE SEBASTOPOL, _26th May, 1856_.

SIR,--With reference to No. 3 of this day’s order, I have the
honour to state that during the short period we had the opportunity
of using Monsieur Soyer’s field-stove, nothing could be more
satisfactory, both in its superiority as a means of cooking a large
quantity of rations in a short time, and also from the small
quantity of fuel used in doing so.

I must also give it as my opinion that it is admirably suited for
operations in the field, but requires to have the outer casing
protected in some way; probably an open netting of iron wire would
do so, with a couple of loops, so that two stoves could then be
attached and carried by one mule or horse.

I have the honour to be, Sir, your most obedient servant,

RAMSAY STUART, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 21st Fusiliers_.

The Assistant-Adjutant-General, &c. &c. &c., Fourth Division.

CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _26th May, 1856_.

SIR,--In compliance with Division Order No. 3 of this day’s date, I
beg leave to state that I approve most highly of the Soyer
field-stoves.

Each company in my regiment has had good opportunities of fully
testing their qualities; and both in the cooking of fresh and salt
meat, they have been found to answer the purpose for which they
were intended, remarkably well.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your most obedient humble servant, B. RILEY, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 48th Regiment_.

The Brigade-Major, Second Brigade, Fourth Division Camp.

CAMP, FOURTH DIVISION, _27th May, 1856_.

SIR,--In compliance with divisional orders of yesterday’s date,
directing officers commanding corps to report on Monsieur Soyer’s
stove,

I have the honour to state I consider Monsieur Soyer’s stove cooks
the men’s rations infinitely better than the ordinary way. The
saving of fuel, also, to Government is a very important
consideration; and moreover I am informed by Monsieur Soyer that
the men’s rations can easily be baked by his stove, which I
consider very desirable, so as to enable the men to have a change
in the way of cooking their dinner.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your most obedient servant, F. C. EVELEGH, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 20th Regiment_.

The Assistant-Adjutant-General,

Fourth Division.

CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _27th May, 1856_.

SIR,--Having had one of your field-stoves in use for some weeks,
for the men of the 23d Fusiliers, and all the companies having
taken their turn of cooking with it, I am happy to be able to bear
testimony to the great improvement you have effected in the
soldiers’ cooking. Your field-stoves are clean, easy to use, and
very economical of fuel; they cook the soldiers’ food extremely
well, and the men like them very much, each company having been
anxious to retain the stove as long as possible. The great saving
of fuel, also, renders these stoves particularly valuable in a camp
like this.

I am, Sir,

Your obedient servant, HENRY W. BUNBURY, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 23rd Fusiliers_.

Monsieur Alexis Soyer, &c. &c. &c.

LIGHT DIVISION CAMP, _May 27th, 1856_.

SIR,--I beg to acknowledge the receipt of your letter respecting
the field-stove, and have no hesitation in giving my testimony as
to its great efficiency, both as to economy of fuel and the simple
method of cooking, the result of which can scarcely fail to be
satisfactory, even with the most ignorant and unskilful performer.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your most obedient servant, PERCY HILL, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 2nd Bat. Rifle Brigade_.

Monsieur Soyer, Fourth Division Camp.

CAMP OF THE LIGHT DIVISION BEFORE SEBASTOPOL,

_27th May, 1856_.

MY DEAR SIR,--I am happy to inform you that your new stove has been
used, with great success, in the 77th Regiment.

It dresses the men’s dinners remarkably well, and a great saving of
fuel is effected by using it--about a stone of coals a day.

I consider it admirably adapted for cooking in the field, and it is
very portable.

I am, my dear Sir,

Very faithfully yours, R. J. STRATON, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 77th Regiment_.

Monsieur Soyer, &c. &c.

CAMP BEFORE SEVASTOPOL, _28th May, 1856_.

SIR,--Having tried your stove, I consider it the best possible
cooking apparatus for the army, whether in barracks or standing
camp.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your most obedient servant, A. RUSSELL, Major, _Commanding 1st Bat. Rifle Brigade_.

Monsieur A. Soyer, Camp, Fourth Division.

CAMP, SEVASTOPOL, _28th May 1856_.

MONSIEUR SOYER,--The cooking-stove sent to my regiment on trial was
in use one week, and I am glad to be able to tell you was highly
approved of.

The soup was richer and superior in flavour, and the meat better
boiled.

It has the great advantage of cleanliness, also being capable of
service in the open air, needing only a shed to keep the weather
off those employed.

Yours very obediently,

W. H. WELLESLEY, Colonel, _Commanding Royal Fusiliers_.

Monsieur A. Soyer.

CRIMEA, _31st May, 1856_.

I hereby certify that Soyer’s field-kitchen for fifty men has
recently been tried in the battalion under my command, in cooking
soldiers’ rations, and that it appears perfectly to answer all
purposes. It possesses many advantages--viz., the small quantity of
fuel required, its lightness and portability, and requiring, when
in use, the attendance of only one man. It is in every respect
preferable to the cooking coppers generally used in barracks.

R. W. HUEY, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 2nd Bat. 1st Royal Regiment_.

CAMP, KAMARA, _1st June, 1856_.

I have much pleasure in bearing my testimony to the great advantage
of Monsieur Soyer’s field-stove over the usual method of cooking
practised by an army, from the economy in fuel, the little
attention it requires when the fire is once lighted, and its
construction enabling the soldier to cook in the open air in all
weathers. The slow process of boiling, also, which is easily
regulated by the men after a day’s instruction, produces a more
nutritious soup, and renders the meat more tender than when cooked
in the ordinary way. Altogether, I consider the improvement one of
great utility.

JOHN DOUGLAS, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 79th Highlanders_.

To Monsieur Alexis Soyer.

CRIMEA, _June 2nd, 1856_.

SIR,--I have much pleasure in bearing testimony in favour of your
stove, which is highly approved by my men; and from its
cleanliness, and economy in fuel, I think it must supersede the old
method of cooking.

I remain, Sir,

Your obedient servant, EDWARD W. WALKER, Colonel, _Commanding Fusilier Guards_.

Monsieur Soyer, &c. &c.

CAMP, KAMARA, _2nd June, 1856_.

SIR,--In answer to yours of the 21st May last, I am of opinion that
your “field-stove,” if taken into general use in the army, would be
a great improvement over the old system of cooking with
camp-kettles. It requires but little attendance, a great deal less
fuel, without the least regard to situation, and may be used with
perfect freedom in any description of weather.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your obedient servant, A. LEITH HAY, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 93rd Highlanders_.

Monsieur Alexis Soyer, Cathcart’s Hill, Crimea.

LIGHT DIVISION CAMP, _4th June, 1856_.

SIR,--I have much pleasure in being able to bear testimony to the
efficacy of your field-stoves. Their extreme simplicity and their
consuming so little fuel, render them particularly applicable to
the use of soldiers. The men of the regiment under my command all
approve of them.

I have the honour to be, Sir,

Your obedient servant, A. C. GOODENOUGH, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 34th Regiment_.

Monsieur Alexis Soyer, Cathcart’s Hill.

CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _7th June, 1856_.

I have witnessed the working of Monsieur Soyer’s patent portable
kitchen for troops, and consider it most excellent--the process
simple, saving of fuel great, and always insuring a good meal to
the soldier, in camp or barrack, it will be a great boon, should it
be generally adopted.

THOMAS KELLY, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 31st Regiment_.

CAMP BEFORE SEBASTOPOL, FOURTH DIVISION, _June 14th, 1856_.

Major-General Garrett approves highly of the cooking-stoves
introduced by Monsieur Soyer, which have been made trial of by all
the regiments of the Fourth Division, and have given great
satisfaction to the men, and have been approved by commanding
officers.

In a standing camp, or in quarters, they are admirable; they can be
put up in an instant anywhere, either in or out of doors, and they
never smoke. If attention is paid to the proportions of meat,
water, and the necessary ingredients, when cooking commences, the
most careless soldier can scarcely fail in making a good mess.
There is also a great saving of fuel; and as only a certain amount
of fire can be kept going, a steady and even process of cooking is
insured, by which, without any great skill on the part of the
soldier, a good dinner is in due course produced.

A. GARRETT, Major-General, _Commanding Fourth Division_.

LIGHT DIVISION CAMP, CRIMEA, _14th June, 1856_.

MY DEAR SIR,--It gives me great pleasure to send you my opinion of
your camp-stove--the 90th Light Infantry under my command having
had one on trial for some weeks, during which time I watched it
very closely. If generally used in the army, I consider it will be
as great a boon to soldiers as it must be a saving to the public.
Its portability for camp purposes, where one mule can carry two
stoves to cook everything for one hundred men, and without the
necessity for a cook-house, is an important consideration; but the
more so when its portability does not affect its qualities for
general purposes in barracks, &c. The smallest quantity of fuel is
required to light it and to keep it sufficiently hot, and the
degree of heat being so well and simply regulated, waste of fuel
becomes impossible, and the cooking much improved over ordinary
coppers in the usual barrack cook-houses. With the addition of your
very simple receipts, it appears to me that there is everything we
can require, not only to make the most of a soldier’s rations, but
to render them both wholesome and palatable.

You were good enough to superintend personally at my
cook-houses--until that time, the soldiers threw away, or used for
other purposes than intended, the fat of the pork ration; with your
plain instructions, they afterwards spread it on their bread as
butter, and no wonder they were exceedingly fond of it, for it was
pure and sweet, and far superior to the rank bad butter they
purchased in the canteens, &c., in the Crimea. It will not be
wasted again. I am happy to have this opportunity to acknowledge a
great service rendered, and I wish that your camp-stoves may meet
with the success they deserve, that they may be generally used in
the army, not only in camp, but in quarters, hospitals, &c.

I am, dear Sir, very faithfully yours,

ROBERT CAMPBELL, Colonel, _Commanding 90th Light Infantry_.

Monsieur Alexis Soyer, &c. &c.

CAMP, SEBASTOPOL, _14th June, 1856_.

MY DEAR SIR,--I have just received your letter.

In reply, I have now to state, from what I have seen of your
stoves, that they are most admirably adapted for the purpose
intended. They economize fuel, which is a great thing; and they
will be a great “boon” to the soldier, in every respect.

I am, yours very truly,

THOMAS INGRAM, Lieut-Col., _Commanding 97th Regiment_.

To Monsieur Soyer, &c. Barrack Hospital, Scutari.

HEAD-QUARTERS, SEBASTOPOL, _19th June, 1856_.

SIR,--In acknowledging your letter of the 15th instant, I have to
observe that one of your camp-stoves has been in constant use in
the 56th Regiment for the last two months, and from inquiries from
the men themselves, and my own observation, I am decidedly of
opinion that they possess very considerable advantages over any
other means of cooking at present in use in the British army, and I
would strongly advocate their being furnished to all barracks, not
only on account of their superiority in rendering the soldiers’
ration much more wholesome than when prepared by the means
ordinarily used, but also for their great economy of fuel and
labour.

All these advantages were clearly demonstrated on the occasion of
Lord Gough’s visit to the camp of the 56th, when, with ten of the
stoves in operation, you superintended so successfully the cooking
of five hundred men’s rations.

I remain, your very obedient servant,

A. W. LACY, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 56th Regiment_.

Monsieur Soyer, &c. &c.

CAMP, KADIKOI, _June 26th, 1856_.

DEAR MONSIEUR SOYER,--The kitchen which you were kind enough to
leave in our camp has been working admirably; the men are quite
delighted with it, because it saves them so much trouble and cooks
their rations so far superior to the old way: the saving in fuel
must be immense. I trust, when we get back to England, every
regiment may be served with them.

Believe me, very truly yours,

W. PEEL, Lieut.-Col., _Commanding 11th Hussars_.

SCUTARI, _August 11th, 1856_.

MY DEAR SIR,--The department to which I belong having been broken
up consequent on the return of the English army from the East, I
hope you will allow me, before I leave this country, to express to
you the obligation I feel for your invaluable services in the
hospitals here and at Kululee. To the important information and
improvements which from the first you brought to bear upon the
culinary department at each hospital, have the sick been indebted
for much of the comforts they enjoyed when in hospital; nothing
does tend to console a patient, or to restore him, so much as the
nicety of the food which is given him: on the other hand, the
badly-cooked food which is so often found in hospitals where the
cooks have not been trained, retard no doubt the convalescence of
the sick, the patient rather turning from his meal than desiring
it. It was not so, however, with the hospitals here from the time
you commenced your improvements in the kitchens.

I could not, for myself, have desired anything better than the
meals which, through your management, were furnished daily to the
patients. I think the general management of the kitchen has been
admirable, and, considering the vast numbers which had to be cooked
for, in every way successful. I believe your system introduced into
the general hospitals of the army generally, would be attended with
incalculable advantage in every way, to the sick as well as the
convalescents, and, I have no doubt, with much economy.

You are aware how much pleasure it gave me to see the working of
your excellent field-kitchens at the First Division, when I visited
the Crimea in September last on duty. So much was I struck with
their excellence, and the little expense attending them, that I
addressed a letter to Sir Benjamin Hawes on the subject at the
time, suggesting the propriety of at once introducing them into the
hospitals in the front, where I believe they were very much wanted.
I can only hope that ere long not a regiment in the service will be
without them; and I am sure that will be the wish of all who have
seen them in operation.

Wishing you a happy return to England, where you left your family
and friends with the patriotic and humane object of rendering your
gratuitous services to the army in the East at a time when so much
suffering was endured by the soldiers both in hospital and in the
field, and with my thanks for your valuable assistance to my
department,

Believe me to be, yours very sincerely,

T. SCOTT ROBERTSON, _Purveyor-in-Chief_.

To Monsieur Soyer.

MALTA, _September 8th, 1856_.

SIR,--In reply to your letter requesting me to give you my opinion
on the subject of your military cooking stove, I now beg to give
you the opinion I have formed of them.

I will first mention that the stove was used by each of the
companies of the 47th Regiment in succession. The non-commissioned
officers and soldiers all spoke most favourably of it.

The portable cooking stove has, in my mind, many important
advantages to recommend it--one very important one being that it
can cook in any situation whatsoever, and in any weather, and with
the smallest possible consumption of fuel of any kind which may be
available--a very great consideration in localities where fuel is
scarce or difficult of access. I imagine those stoves would have
answered admirably for cooking in the trenches before Sebastopol,
taking little room, consuming little fuel, and showing but little
smoke, and cooking the food as securely and perfectly in bad
weather as in fine.

For field hospitals they would answer admirably, _especially as
carrying their own fuel_ on a march. The cooking for the sick could
commence instantly on the halt taking place.

I think here at Malta they would be very useful in many of the
encampments; in fact, anywhere that troops are suddenly placed they
(the cooking stoves) would be found of great use. Even they could
answer very well in the event of troops having on any emergency to
embark in vessels inadequately provided with cooking apparatus.

Fully convinced of their merits, I wish the invention all the
military success and encouragement it deserves.

I have the honour to be your very obedient servant,

M. J. HALEY, _Colonel commanding 47th Regiment_.

To Monsieur Alexis Soyer.

P.S. There is one observation I cannot help adding, which is that,
however desirable it is to give the army improved utensils for
cooking, little progress will be made in military cookery and
teaching the soldiers to turn such rations or other articles of
food to account in the most advantageous and ready manner, unless
it is some one person’s particular business to teach cooking. We
ought to have a non-commissioned officer for the special duty, and
who would be responsible for imparting instruction in that most
essential craft; recollecting a most important _maxime de
guerre_:--“C’est la soupe qui fait le soldat.”

13, KENSINGTON PARK TERRACE NORTH, _July, 1857_.

DEAR SIR,--I understand that you are about to publish some
observations respecting your valuable labours in the culinary
department in the military hospitals of Scutari and the Crimea. If
you permit me, I shall be happy to add a few remarks, such as
occurred to me during the period I was engaged by the Government as
one of the physicians in the Barrack Hospital. One of the first
duties in the treatment of the sick was to ascertain the quality of
the food adapted to invalids labouring under every form of fever,
of acute and chronic diarrhœa, and especially dysentery. It is
in vain to attempt to cure these diseases by medicines only; a
carefully regulated diet was of the first consequence; and I was
early disappointed and embarrassed by the wretched state of the
kitchens and diet intended for the sick. I was in the habit of
frequenting the kitchen which belonged to the division of the
hospital in which I was doing duty, and observing the mode of
cooking, and soon found that the soldier-cooks were quite ignorant
of their art. I have constantly examined and tasted the mutton and
fowls, the soups, the vegetables, and the puddings, and I do not
hesitate to affirm that they were as unpalatable and unsavoury and
as objectionable as they could be. The practice of cooking the
fowls was to put them into nets--a dozen or more in one net;
several nets were placed in large coppers; and then to boil them as
rapidly as possible, with fierce heat. I have many times examined
their quality after this process of rapid boiling, and always found
them extremely tough and uneatable, and generally the sick soldier
could not masticate them, especially as so many of the sick were
suffering from spongy gums and decayed teeth, the effects of
scurvy. The mutton, generally bad in quality, was always very badly
cooked, and the broths or soups very destitute of flavour. No one,
sir, can know so well as a physician the great value of palatable
and easily digestible food--it is of more consequence than the
whole contents of the apothecary’s shop.

I do not desire to flatter you, nor unnecessarily to disparage the
former miserable system of cooking. Your presence in that essential
department of the healing art inspired us with new hopes. In a few
days we discovered the superiority of your successful efforts to
unite the agreeable and nutritive qualities of food. Under your
instructions, the meat became savoury and eatable--the soups were
relished--the puddings were pleasant, and enjoyed--the tea and
coffee were refreshing. Those invalids who before your arrival
seemed to yield most patiently to their hard lot of
semi-starvation, and often went without the medical comforts, now
looked out anxiously for the hour when these creature blessings
were usually distributed. The Government, with a proper generosity,
gave almost a _carte blanche_ to the Medical Staff to order every
medical comfort to the poor sick soldier who could no longer wield
a sword or shoulder a musket, and who were perishing by diseases
aggravated by improper diet and bad cooking. The art of the
_cuisine_ yields not in importance to medicine itself--it is the
handmaid of the physician; and I would rather trust to its curative
powers than to the physic of the doctors, if I were limited to the
alternative of either the one or the other.

I am, dear Sir, your obedient servant,

ROBERT WOOLLASTON, _M.D. Lond., F.S.C.S., Late one of the Physicians of the Barrack Hospital at Scutari_.

To Monsieur Soyer.

_Copy of Letter addressed by the Author to the Right Honourable the Lord Panmure, K.T., &c. &c. &c., relating to the completion of his Mission, in the shape of a Journal._

MY LORD,--I beg to close this little journal by stating the reason
of my long absence since the treaty of peace. It was with the
intention of writing a work which will, I hope, perpetuate the
ameliorations I have been enabled (through the confidence reposed
in me by your lordship) to introduce in the diets for the
hospitals, as well as the cooking for the army. And this can be
effected in a very short time, without increasing the expense to
the nation, but will, on the contrary, be likely to tend to
economy, it being well recognised by the faculty that change of
food is as essential to the soldier in health as change of diet is
to the invalid. This work will also, with little trouble, have the
effect of making cooks of the soldiers, and teach them at the same
time to make the most of their rations either in camp or in
barracks.

With the most profound respect, I have the honour to remain,

Your Lordship’s obedient servant, A. SOYER.

USEFUL INVENTIONS

SOYER’S SCUTARI TEAPOT.

This teapot, which is registered, is manufactured by Messrs. Deane and Dray, London Bridge, and sold by all ironmongers in the kingdom.

The top of the minaret forms the lid, and the tube which holds the tea, being moveable, allows every facility for cleaning, and amongst its many advantages the most prominent are its cheapness, elegance, and simplicity. It can be made any size.

PATENT ROTARY KNIFE-CLEANER.

Amongst the many tribulations of small families, one of the worst is knife-cleaning, which is one of the most disagreeable of all household duties--and what is worse than a dirty knife? Yet where is the house where the housewife is not well up in the household duties who does not experience this inconvenience? A gentleman named Detheir, a nephew of the celebrated Detheir of the Great Northern Hotel, has really invented a knife-cleaner which ought to be introduced in all public institutions, commercial houses, and private families. So much do I approve of this machine as a public boon, that I trust they will be made at such a moderate price as to come within the reach of all.

INDEX TO ADDENDA.

HOSPITAL DIETS.

Apple Barley Water, 523

Arrowroot Milk, 517

Arrowroot Water, 517

Baked Apple Toast-and-Water, 522

Barley Water, 518

Batter Pudding, 519

Beef Soup, 514

Beef Tea, 514

Boiled Rice, 521

Bread-and-Butter Pudding, 520

Bread Pudding, 520

Browning for Soups, 522

Calf’s-foot Jelly, 516

Cheap Plain Rice Pudding for Campaigning, 519

Chicken Broth, 515

Citronade, 523

Currant Syrup, 523

Custard Pudding, 520

Date Water, 523

Effervescent Beverages, 523

Essence of Beef Tea, 515

Figs and Apple Beverages, 521

Fig Water, 523

French Herb Broth, 522

Jelly Stock, 517

Macaroni Pudding, 520

Mulberry Water, 523

Mutton and Veal Tea, 115

Orange-Flower Water, 523

Pine Apple Syrup, 523

Plain-boiled Rice, 515

Plain Lemonade, 523

Plain Oatmeal, 516

Raisin Water, 523

Raspberry Water, 523

Rice with Gravy, 516

Rich Rice Pudding, 520

Rice Water, 518

Sago Jelly, 517

Sago Pudding, 521

Semi-citric Lemonade, 518

Semi-stewed Mutton and Barley Soup for one hundred Men, 513

Soyer’s Cheap Lemonade, 519

Soyer’s Plain Lemonade, 518

Spring Drink, 523

Stewed French Plums, 521

Stewed Macaroni, 520

Strengthening Beef Tea, 515

Summer Drink, 523

Sweet Rice, 516

Syrup of Orgeat, 523

Tapioca Pudding, 521

Tartaric Lemonade, 519

Thick Arrowroot Milk, 517

Thick Beef Tea, 515

Toast-and-Water, 522

ARMY RECEIPTS.

Army Soup for fifty Men, 526

Baking and Roasting with the Field Stove, 528

Baking in Oven, 529

Beef Soup, 532

Camp Soup, 531

Cocoa for eighty Men, 530

Coffee for ten or eighty Men, 529

Easy way of Cooking in Earthen Pan, 530

French Beef Soup, or Pot-au-Feu, 530

How to Soak and Plain-boil Rations of Salt Beef and
Pork on Land and at Sea, 525

How to Cook for a Regiment of one thousand Men, 527

Pea Soup, 532

Plain Irish Stew for fifty Men, 527

Receipts for Frying-pan, 532

Salt Meat for fifty Men, 525

Salt Pork, with Mashed Peas, for one hundred Men, 562

Salt Pork and Pudding, with Cabbage and Potatoes, 527

Semi-Frying, Camp Fashion, 530

Soyer’s Food for one hundred Men, for using two stoves, 527

Stewed Salt Beef and Pork for one hundred Men, or a Regiment
of one thousand Men, 526

Stewed Fresh Beef and Rice, 532

Suet Dumplings, 533

Tea for eighty Men, 529

Turkish Pilaff for one hundred Men, 528

BILL OF FARE FOR LONDON SUPPERS.

Battered Eggs with Mushrooms, 546

Battered Eggs with Sprue Grass, 546

Bouillabaisse Anglicised, 550

Ditto, Second Class, 550

Chicken, American fashion, 549

Chipped or ribboned Potatoes, 548

Chop or Steak à la Sultana, 536

Chops semi-Provençal, or Marseilles fashion, 536

Cold Asparagus Salad, 549

Crab Salad, 543

Crabs au Gratin in the Shell, 541

Curried Eggs, 547

Curried Tripe, 539

Eggs with Tomato Sauce, 547

Eggs with chopped Ham or Tongue, 546

Eggs with Mushrooms, 546

Eggs with Truffles, 546

Eggs with Sprue Grass, 547

Eggs à la Bonne Femme, 547

Eggs au Miroir with Ham or Bacon, 546

Eggs à la Tripe or Onion Sauce, 547

Endive Salad, 544

Fillet de Bœuf, Parisian fashion, 535

Fillet de Bœuf, semi-Chateaubriant, 536

Fried Oysters, New York way, 542

Fried Potatoes, 547

Fried Potatoes with Maître d’Hôtel Butter, 548

Fried Potatoes with Cayenne Pepper, 548

Game for Supper, 542

Gratin Tripe in Shell, 539

Grilled Chicken with Sharp Sauce, 539

Ham and Bacon Omelettes, 545

Ham with Shalots, Parsley, and Chervil, 546

Herring à la Rob Roy, 549

Kidneys Saute, with Sherry, Port, or Champagne, 537

Kidney Toast, 537

Lamb Chops à l’Africaine, 538

Lamb Chops à la Printaniere, 538

Lamb Chops à la Boulogne, 538

Lamb’s Fry, 540

Lobster Curry, 540

Lobster Curry in Shell, 540

Lobster au Gratin, 540

Lobster Cutlets, 540

Lobster Salad, 543

Minced Sandwiches, 536

Mirrored Eggs, 546

Mushroom Kidney Sandwich, 536

Mutton and Lamb Cutlets à la Bouchère, 535

Mutton and Lamb Cutlets semi-Bouchère, 535

Mutton, Lamb, or Veal Cutlets, en Papillote, 537

Mutton or Lamb Chops à la Turc, 540

New Potato Salad, German fashion, 549

Ditto, with French or Haricôt Beans, 549

Omelettes with fine Herbs, 544

Omelettes with Mushrooms 545

Omelettes with Sprue Grass, 545

Omelettes with Parmesan, 545

Oysters stewed American fashion, 542

Plain Mutton Chops and Steaks, 535

Plain Salad with Anchovies, 544

Poached Eggs with Cream, 545

Poached Eggs with Maître d’Hôtel Butter, 545

Poached Eggs semi-curried with Ham or Bacon, 545

Pork Chops à la Tartare, 538

Pork Chops with Pimento Butter, 538

Rarebit à la Soyer, with Sherry or Champagne, 547

Relishing Steak, 535

Rumpsteak and Potatoes, 534

Salad, new, Tartar fashion, 543

Sandwiches for Evening Parties, 540

Sauces, List of, 551 to 554

Scalloped Lobster, 540

Semi-curried kidneys, 537

Soyer’s Broiling or Universal Devil, 539

Soyer’s Grouse Salad, 543

Soyer’s Universal Devil Mixture, 548

Ditto for the Million, 549

Soyer’s Balaklava Nectar, 560

Soyer’s Crimean Cup à la Wyndham, 550

Stewed Tripe, 539

Stewed Oysters on toast, 542

Tripe Lyonnaise fashion, 539

A SERIES OF RECEIPTS FOR THE NEEDY, 555 TO 566.

ANECDOTES, ETC.

The Duke of Cambridge’s Head-Quarters prior to the Battle of Inkermann, 567

A Visit to Dolma Batchi Palace, 570

The Travelling Gentleman of the Crimea, 573

The Consumption Hospital, 574

Copies of Letters, 575 to 591

Patent Rotary Knife Cleaner, 593

LONDON:
SAVILL AND EDWARDS, PRINTERS, CHANDOS STREET,
COVENT-GARDEN.

* * * * *

SOYER’S SULTANA’S SAUCE, Analysed by Dr. Hassall.

I have examined with much care several samples of M. SOYER’S NEW EASTERN OR SULTANA SAUCE, and I am of opinion that it is an excellent preparation. While it is a good stomachic, its flavour is delicious; moreover the ingredients of which it is composed are of the purest and most wholesome description.

ARTHUR WILLIAM HASSALL, M.D.,

Author of “Food and its Adulterations,” “Adulterations Detected,” &c. &c.

8, BENNETT STREET, ST. JAMES’S STREET, _14th August, 1857_.

SOLE AGENTS--MESSRS. CROSSE AND BLACKWELL.

Is an entirely New Concoction, in which most wholesome Oriental Ingredients and Aromatic Herbs are introduced. It is at once appetizing and nutritious, and applicable to all kinds of cold Meat, Hashes, Stews, Chops, Steaks, Fish, Soups, Poultry, and above all, Salads. A small quantity will suffice to give a most exquisite relish to any of the above dishes.]

FOOTNOTES:

[1] He also approved of my observation, that I was well aware that people could not expect to find those dishes on the bill of fare every day, but only one or two nightly. To insure success, I would advise the proprietors of all extensive supper-houses to adopt the plan I so successfully introduced at the Reform Club many years since, which was to make a small bill of fare of eight or ten dishes which were ready, and cross out such as run short during the evening, recommending only those which remained. This saved time, words, and confusion; besides giving an opportunity of introducing one or two novelties daily, which would pay well if properly attended to. It would also gratify the consumer, who should not be kept waiting for his supper till fresh provisions were sent for and cooked, as at that hour many persons would content themselves with a less variety of dishes rather than wait.

[2] For Receipts, see Addenda.

[3] This spot is little known to the English in general, and to many who have travelled over the world; but as no such delightful place exists anywhere but in England, how can it possibly interest an Englishman? First of all, it is too close for the wealthy, and too far for the people, being six miles by coach from either Windsor or Staines. During the five months I spent there last summer, the greatest number of visitors I counted daily was about twenty or thirty round the lake, which is seven and a half miles in circumference. I should also observe that Louis Napoleon, being a man of great taste, has imitated it in the Bois de Bologne as nearly as possible; and by going there, every Englishman will have an idea of that which he possesses at home, without troubling himself, while in London, to go as far as Virginia Water.

[4] I have since learned that this gentleman during the campaign did so much good, and was so earnest in his endeavours to relieve the sufferings of the wounded at the battle of Inkermann, the allied as well as the Russian troops, that I intend to devote a page of this work to him, and also mention the names of the generals and others who spoke in such high terms of his exertions.

[5] I had bought a cash-belt, but upon trying it, on the point of our departure, I found it too short. This circumstance caused me to place everything in my pocket-book.

[6] That his Majesty was going early in March to the Crimea I can assert as a positive fact. Having met with many unbelievers on this subject in the Crimea is the cause of my relating this anecdote; and no doubt nothing but the following unexpected news could have prevented his majesty from following out his determination.

[7] A magnificent palace, dedicated to the Empress Eugénie, designed by the Emperor, is now in course of erection near the spot.

[8] This remark may probably come to the notice of his friends, and lead to a monument being erected to his memory, which, no doubt, he well deserves.

[9] I earnestly recommend the adoption of this plan in every public institution, civil or military. For example, put in the caldron, which we will suppose holds fifty gallons, so much water, so many pounds of meat, vegetables, salt, pepper, and sugar; add the barley, light the fire; stir now and then with a long wooden spaddle to prevent the barley sticking at the bottom of the caldron; when boiling, reduce the fire. Simmer gently two and a half hours, if mutton is used; if beef, three hours. Never skim it, only take the fat off, if any, which use for other purposes, or instead of butter (see Hospital receipt in Addenda). If two or more boilers are required, the quantities given in the scale only need increasing.

[10] If I dwell so minutely upon these apparently frivolous details, it is only because I wish to show that I did not introduce anything until it had first met with the approval of the medical gentlemen.

[11] I believe I am correct in stating that, in the French army, one soldier has to cook for a squad of sixteen men, while in camp: and that he has charge of two canteen kettles. I always saw five or six men cooking for a company in each kitchen; there were ten kitchens to a regiment of ten companies. This the soldiers told me themselves.

I make this remark to corroborate what I afterwards said in Paris before several French officers who contradicted me, but who, I believe, were not in the Crimean war. They stated that they only had two cooks to one company while campaigning. Upon making inquiries of a corporal who had charge of that department in his regiment while in the Crimea, he assured me that it was one man to each kettle, and not one to two--afterwards divided into two messes, forming a squad of nine or ten men, which would be equal to one hundred men to a regiment of one thousand in strength, instead of eight, as I at first calculated, or about ten squads to a company. While in barracks, comparatively speaking, it only requires a few men per regiment.

[12] If I have here related this anecdote, it is with the intention of showing the effect produced by the report upon all engaged in the hospitals, who felt that a gentleman of that age, though very capable, might, with his antique notions, upset what was then going on so well.

[13] I have such confidence in the nutritive qualities and the importance to the army and navy of these bread-biscuits, that I intend to recommend their adoption in both departments. For a campaign they are invaluable; and at sea they would make an excellent change, being as light as bread.

[14] The difficulty of recollecting the names and the rank of military men in the Crimea is great. This is particularly the case with me. The performance of my manifold duties compelled me to cross and re-cross hundreds of times from vessel to vessel, hospital to hospital, and camp to camp. I met and received attentions and aid from numbers, of whom it is impossible to retain more than a slight photographic sketch of their noble Saxon countenances. From the peculiarity of my costume, I was almost as well known to every one in the camp as a _chien du régiment_.

I offer this explanation as an apology to any one whom I may have inadvertently annoyed--if any such there be--in my account of my Crimean campaign, by not giving the proper rank or name.

[15] A peculiar kind of turbot found in the Black Sea, with scales, each scale something like the head of a large iron nail; and though, when the fish is thickly covered, it in a measure spoils its appearance, yet it does not in the slightest interfere with the quality, but, on the contrary, leaves a gelatinous succulence round it, entirely peculiar to this rough-outfitted denizen of the ocean.

[16] Sir Michael Shaw Stewart’s sister.

[17] This is the ancient who, after partaking of the best dinner ever prepared, unfortunately inquired of his private secretary how his cash account stood, and finding that he had only a few millions of dollars remaining, for fear of being in future obliged to dine badly, or at least compelled to curtail his incalculable expenditure, one day dined magnificently by himself, and ordering the most luxurious banquet that Rome could boast of. On that solemn occasion, though there were enough culinary _chefs-d’œuvre_ to delight an immense number of epicures, he only invited himself! “Sublime idea!” he ejaculated; “after dining like two Vitelliuses, or several Luculluses, to die in the midst of plenty!” Thereupon he swallowed poison, and was found dead at the head of his table.

[18] Ahmet Pacha, who speaks French, has his country residence at the _greater_ Chamlija; and that of Selim Pacha, where we dined, is in the _lesser_ Chamlija.

[19] That kitchen was put up at the South Union Workhouse, where no doubt it still remains. In some institutions steam tubes have since been introduced into the boiler amongst the food. This, I beg to say, forms no part of my plan, as has been publicly reported. I disapprove of the system altogether, for many reasons, which it would be out of place to discuss in this work.

[20] He related the following anecdote of something that had passed between him and Sir John Campbell, on the eve of the attack of the 18th of June. Sir John had for some time inquired after him, and at last meeting him going to his master’s quarters, called out and said, “François, how much am I in your debt?”

“Why, Colonel, it is only the middle of the month; I will give you your small bill at the end.”

“No, no,” said Sir John, “I want it now, François.”

“Have I offended you, Colonel?”

“Offended me, no! on the contrary, I am much obliged to you for your kind services; but the end of this month may be to-morrow for me, as we shall have a terrible attack upon the Redan; so I want to settle all my little affairs to-day.”

“Oh, I’m sure, General, it will be all right.”

“Indeed I must have it--how much does it amount to?”

“Well, General, if I must, I must--it is one pound seventeen, or somewhere thereabouts.”

The General wished him good night, and with a smile upon his countenance returned to his cave, and François to his duty. That noble-hearted man seemed to have a presentiment that he should not survive the attack. The tears stood in his eyes while he was relating this to me, and I found my own in much the same state in listening to the recital.

[21] A few days after, his Majesty honoured with his presence the grand anniversary ball given at the French Embassy by Monsieur Thouvenel, the French ambassador. It was also very splendid, but not being a fancy one, did not offer the same points of interest. The English ball had the advantage of being the first ever attended by a Moslem monarch: nevertheless, his Sublime Majesty remained longer at the latter than at the former, having, doubtless, taken a fancy to our European social customs.