Chapter I: Preface

The two great Mediterranean peninsulas which, in opposite quarters, jut southward where--as George Eliot says, in her "Spanish Gypsy"--

"Europe spreads her lands
Like fretted leaflets, breathing on the deep,"

may not inaptly be likened to a brother and sister, instead of taking their places under the usual similitude of "sister countries." They have points of marked resemblance, in their picturesqueness, their treasures of art, their associations of history and romance; but, just as the physical aspect of Spain and its shape upon the map are broader, more thick-set and rugged than the slender form and flowing curves of Italy, so the Spanish language--with its Arabic gutturals interspersed among melodious linguals and vowel sounds--has been called the masculine development of that Southern speech of which the Italian presents the feminine side. The people of both countries exhibit a similar excitable, ardent quality in their characters; but the national temperament of the Spaniards is, perhaps, somewhat hardier, more virile, and sturdier in its passionateness.

It seems to be true that, while the Greek spirit transferred itself to Italy in the days of Augustus, renewing its influence at the period of the Renaissance, and leaving upon people and manners an impress never since quite effaced--an influence tending toward a certain feminine refinement--the spirit of Rome also transferred itself to the subject country, Hispania, and imbued that region with the strong, austere, or wilful characteristics of purely Latin civilization, which are still traceable there.

But, however we may account for the phenomena, it is likely that the mingled contrasts and resemblances of Italy and Spain will more and more induce travellers to visit the Iberian Peninsula. Italy has now been so thoroughly depicted in all its larger phases, from the foreigner's point of view, that investigation must hereafter chiefly be concerned with the study of special and local features. Spain, on the other hand, offers itself to the general observer and to the tourist as a field scarcely more explored than Italy was forty or fifty years ago; and the evidence is abundant that the current of travel is setting vigorously in this direction. With the extension of a railroad system and the incursion of sight-seeing strangers in larger number, we must of course expect that many of the most interesting peculiarities of the people will undergo modification and at length disappear. This, however, cannot be helped; and the following chapters, at the same time that they may encourage and aid those who are destined to bring about such changes, may also serve to arrest and preserve for future reference the actual appearance of Spain to-day.

Much might be written, with the certainty of an eager audience, concerning the present political condition of the country, by any one who had had opportunities for examining it; and Mr. John Hay, a few years ago, gave some glimpses of it in his charming volume, "Castilian Days." My own brief sojourn afforded no adequate opportunity for such observation. But it may be not inadmissible to record here one of the casual remarks which came to my notice in this connection. On a Mediterranean steamer I met with an exceedingly bright and healthy man of the middle class, fairly well educated--one of those specimens of solid, temperate, active manhood fortunately very common in Spain, on whom the future of the country really depends--and, noticing from my lame speech that I was not a native, he asked me, guardedly, if I was an Englishman.

"No," I said; "I am an American of the North, of the United States."

His manner changed at once; he thawed: more than that, his face lighted with hope, as if he had found a powerful friend, and he gazed at me with a certain delighted awe, attributing to my humble person a glory for which I was in no way responsible. "You are a republican, then!" he exclaimed.

"Yes."

He gave me another long, silent look, and then confessed that he, too, was a firm believer in republicanism.

"Are there many Spaniards now of that party?" I inquired.

His reply showed that he appreciated the difficulties of the national problem. "Party!" he cried. "Listen: in Spain there is a separate political party for every man." After a slight pause he added, bitterly, "Sometimes, _two_!"

It may still be said with a good deal of accuracy, though not of course with the literalness and the sweeping application that Paul de Saint Victor gave the words, in speaking of the French Charles II.'s reign, that "Spain no more changes than the arid zone that encircles a volcano. Kings pass, dynasties are renewed, events succeed each other, but the foundation remains immobile, and Philip II. still rules."

I have not attempted to review political matters; and neither have I tried to give an exhaustive account of the country in any other respect. The pictures which I have given I have endeavored to make vivid and faithful; and, if I have succeeded, they will present the essential characteristics of Spain. What has thus been the object of the text has certainly been attained in the drawings by Mr. Reinhart, which supply much the greater part of the illustrations in this volume. Made after sketches from life, which were prepared with unflagging zeal, and often under great difficulties, they frequently tell more than language can convey. Their graphic touch, their variety and humor, their technical merit, give them the best of recommendations; but a word of distinct recognition is due here to the artist for the fidelity and spirit with which he has reproduced so many scenes peculiar to the country.

It is hoped that the concluding chapter of "Hints to Travellers" will prove useful, as supplying certain information not always accessible in guide-books, and also as condensing the practical particulars of the subject in a convenient form.

THE WAYSIDE, _Concord_, _April 1, 1883._

CONTENTS.

PAGE

_FROM BURGOS TO THE GATE OF THE SUN_ 1

_THE LOST CITY_ 34

_CORDOVAN PILGRIMS_ 70

_ANDALUSIA AND THE ALHAMBRA_ 103

_MEDITERRANEAN PORTS AND GARDENS_ 152

_HINTS TO TRAVELLERS_ 186

ILLUSTRATIONS.

PAGE

A MANDURRA SOLO _Frontispiece_

INITIAL LETTER 1

TWO ASSASSINS IN LONG CLOAKS 2

THE NIGHT-WATCH 4

DANCING BOYS 6

THE ARCH OF ST. MARY 8

PEASANTS IN THE MARKET-PLACE 11

IN THE MIRADOR 13

LANDSCAPE BETWEEN BURGOS AND MADRID 17

THE PLAZA MAYOR 21

WATER-DEALER 23

OLD ARTILLERY PARK 24

THE ESCORIAL 25

ON THE ROAD TO THE BULL-FIGHT 27

PLAN OF THE BULL-RING 28

A STREET SCENE 32

TAIL-PIECE 33

INITIAL LETTER 34

ENTRANCE TO TOLEDO 35

THE NARROW WAY 36

SPANISH PEASANT (from a Drawing By William M. Chase) 37

SINGING GIRL 41

CLOISTER OF ST. JOHN OF THE KINGS 42

A BIT OF CHARACTER 43

SPANISH SOLDIERS PLAYING DOMINOS 44

A NARROW STREET 45

WOMAN WITH BUNDLE 46

THE SERENADERS 47

A PLENTIFUL SUPPLY OF PLATES 50

THE TOILET--A SUNDAY SCENE 51

A TOLEDO PRIEST 53

TOLEDO SERVITORS AT THE FOUNTAIN 55

A PROFESSIONAL BEGGAR 57

A GROUP OF MENDICANTS 58

A PATIO IN TOLEDO 59

THE HOME OF "SOLITUDE" 61

"MEN AND BOYS SLUMBER OUT-OF-DOORS EVEN IN THE HOT SUN"67

A STRANGE FUNERAL 68

TAIL-PIECE 69

INITIAL LETTER 70

WHETSTONE 71

COFFEE AT CASTILLEJO 72

PRIMITIVE THRASHING 74

WHILE THE WOMEN ARE AT MASS 75

WATER-STAND IN CORDOVA 77

THE GAY COSTER-MONGERS OF ANDALUSIA 79

THE MEZQUITA 80

RELIC PEDDLERS 81

THE GARDEN OF THE ALCAZAR 83

PRIEST AND PURVEYOR 85

FLOWERS FOR THE MARKET 85

TRAVELLERS TO CORDOVA 87

"ARRÉ, BURR-R-RICO!" 89

THE FRUIT OF THE DESIERTA 94

MEMENTO MORI 97

DIFFICULT FOR FOREIGNERS 101

THE JASMINE GIRL 101

INITIAL LETTER 103

MAIN ENTRANCE TO THE CATHEDRAL, SEVILLA (from a Photograph by J. Laurent & Co., Madrid) 105

THE GIRALDA TOWER (from a Photograph By J. Laurent & Co., Madrid) 107

THE "UNDERGROUND" MAIL 109

A STREET CORNER 115

FIGARO 118

"STONE WALLS DO NOT A PRISON MAKE" 121

IN "THE SERPENT" 123

"ALL THE DAY I AM HAPPY" 127

GRANADA UNDERTAKER 130

THE MOORISH GATE, SEVILLA 131

A WATER-CARRIER 133

BIT OF ARCH IN A COURT OF THE ALHAMBRA (from a Photograph by J. Laurent & Co., Madrid) 137

THE TOILET TOWER (from a Photograph by J. Laurent & Co., Madrid) 139

BOUDOIR OF LINDARAXA 141

GYPSIES 150

INITIAL LETTER 152

GYPSY DANCE 154

A SPANISH MONK 158

TRANSPORTATION OF POTTERY 160

GARLIC VENDER 161

DIVING FOR COPPERS 164

A MODERN SANCHO PANZA 167

STREET BARBER 168

BIBLES _VERSUS_ MELONS 169

CUSTOMS OFFICERS 171

POST INN, ALICANTE 172

ALICANTE FRUIT-SELLER 173

METHOD OF IRRIGATION NEAR VALENCIA 175

CHURCH OF SANTA CATALINA, VALENCIA 176

A VALENCIA CAB 178

BARCELONA FISHERMEN 180

TAIL-PIECE 185

INITIAL LETTER 186

ST. JOHN AT BURGOS--CHERUBS IN ADORATION 210

SPANISH VISTAS.

_FROM BURGOS TO THE GATE OF THE SUN._