Chapter I: Preface

I present this book to the Public simply as an account of what I did and saw; and the impressions the different events and scenes made upon my mind.

I have written it from notes and my daily Journal. The stories that are in it were told me, some by Natives, others by Europeans; either over the camp fire, or to while away the tedium of a long march, or the _ennui_ of life on board ship.

These tales must be taken as they are written; they amused me much at the time, and if they only interest my readers I shall be content.

I hope to revisit Abyssinia, but under more favourable auspices; and trust that better luck may attend me.

I have spelt the names of places as they are _pronounced_, having had them repeated over several times to me by our excellent interpreter, Peter Brou.

_Victoria Street. London. 1876._

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

PAGE

CAIRO -- THE KHEDIVE "AT HOME" -- THE PYRAMIDS -- PETROS,
OUR CONDUCTOR -- SUEZ -- OUR PROVISIONS -- THE START FROM
SUEZ -- ON BOARD THE DESSOOK -- SOUAKIM -- A USEFUL WEAPON
-- MASSOWAH -- NATIVE FISHERMEN -- PEARLS -- OUR FIRST
ENCAMPMENT -- ARTIFICIAL SHADE -- "MY BATTERY" -- "EN ROUTE"
-- ON CAMEL-BACK -- THE FIRST SHOT -- AND MISS -- A NEW
METHOD OF LOADING -- PICK-A-BACK -- THE RESULT -- ARREKEL
BEY -- WATER SUPPLY -- OUR PARTY DIVIDES -- A VULTURE TRAP
-- BAGGAGE TRAIN -- CONVICT LABOUR -- A TURKISH
DINNER-PARTY -- THE CORPS DE BALLET 1

CHAPTER II.

OUR EQUIPMENT -- TENTS AND BEDS -- COMMISSARIAT -- THE
KITCHEN -- MULES, THEIR HABITS AND TREATMENT -- CAMELS -- UP
COUNTRY -- MY FIRST BAG -- SILVER CUPS -- A WILD BOAR --
AILET -- OUR ESCORT -- THE FIRST OF THE JUNGLE -- SWEDISH
MISSIONARIES -- AN ABYSSINIAN "SPA" -- A HOT BATH -- THE
"RAINS" -- THRASHING THE TENTS 20

CHAPTER III.

GENERAL KIRKHAM -- DIK-DIK -- AN ABYSSINIAN HOUSE -- A
SUCCESSFUL DODGE -- EGYPTIAN OUTPOSTS -- A PET SHEEP --
SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE -- LOST IN A MIST -- A "NASTY CROPPER"
-- SAFE IN CAMP -- DIGGING FOR PIGS -- A LUCKY SHOT -- A
SHOWER BATH 37

CHAPTER IV.

A STRANGE "GET-UP" -- AN UNLUCKY SHOT -- CRANES -- AN
INSOLENT "CHICKER" -- OUR COOLIES STRIKE -- FLORICAN --
SERVANT HUNTING -- NIGHT MARCHING -- FIRST SIGHT OF THE
MAREB -- "LONG LIE" -- COPTIC CHURCH -- A PEAL OF STONE
BELLS -- HIGHWAY ROBBERY -- A CHASE -- DOMESTIC QUARREL --
LUGGAGE DIFFICULTIES -- A MOONLIGHT RACE 55

CHAPTER V.

A GENERAL BATH -- RELIGIOUS PROCESSION -- THE GAME OF GOUX
-- DINNER-PARTY IN A STABLE -- ETIQUETTE -- GRAM -- FRENCH
LEAVE -- HOSTILITIES -- A PARLEY AND RECONCILIATION --
NATIVE BEER -- A WHIRLWIND -- CULTIVATION -- ROADS -- FINE
SCENERY -- A TALISMAN -- A FIANCÉE -- CAPTURE OF A GUIDE --
ROBBERS AND THEIR PUNISHMENT -- THE CROPS -- CAMP ON THE
MAREB -- TOMATOS -- LIONS -- A NARROW ESCAPE -- SPEAR
THROWING 75

CHAPTER VI.

A WART-HOG -- "BRUNDO" BUTCHERING -- AN "ETON BLUE" BIRD --
BABOONS -- DESERTED VILLAGE -- ROUGH WALKING -- THE
ABYSSINIAN ADAM AND EVE -- JEALOUSY -- THE PRIESTS -- SAVAGE
CUSTOMS -- TAMARISK COVER -- NATIVE SPORTSMEN -- DANCING AND
SINGING -- WANT OF A DOG -- NEWS OF A LION -- RED
POCKET-HANDKERCHIEFS AND THEIR EFFECT -- "BORROWED PLUMES"
-- THE JUNGLE ON FIRE -- WE STEER WEST -- "BLACKMAIL" --
SUMMARY JUSTICE 94

CHAPTER VII.

A LONG MARCH -- A NATIVE GARDEN -- COOLIES AND THE WAY TO
TREAT THEM -- MARKETS -- A BATTLE-FIELD -- COOL SHADE --
"THE FIRST POST" -- SHIELDS AND SPEARS -- JOHN -- POTATOES
-- SILVERSMITHS -- A NEW FRIEND -- COOLIE SQUABBLES -- AN
APPEAL -- DONKEY BUYING -- SHOE-MAKING -- A BIRD'S-EYE VIEW
OF OUR ROUTE -- SOURCES OF THE TACKAZZEE -- MARRIAGE
FESTIVITIES -- I TURN SURGEON -- A MUSICAL PARTY -- MY
REPUTATION AS A DOCTOR 114

CHAPTER VIII.

DONKEY ROBBERIES -- REPRISALS -- A FRIEND IN NEED -- POSTMEN
-- APOLOGIES -- A THIEF SURPRISED -- IN SEARCH OF A MILLER
-- THE WAY TO GET WATER -- A SWIM -- ARRIVAL OF MY RIFLE --
CUSTOM-HOUSE -- ELEPHANT-HUNTING -- HINTS ON COSTUME --
FIRESIDE TALES -- HOW TO PRODUCE FIRE -- AN EPICURE --
HARTEBEEST AND GIRAFFES -- JUNGLE FIRES 134

CHAPTER IX.

THE FOREST -- THE TACKAZZEE AT LAST -- A FORD -- AN
UNHEALTHY CAMP -- HIPPOPOTAMI -- A RAFT -- ON THE ELEPHANT
TRACK -- IN SIGHT OF GAME -- A LION AND A MESS --
BIVOUACKING -- BEGINNING OF MY ILLNESS -- GUINEA FOWL -- WE
TURN HOMEWARDS -- "THE BLUES" -- RAFT-BUILDING -- A CARAVAN
-- ELEPHANT AGAIN -- A BIG FISH! -- NEWSPAPERS -- CHANGE OF
QUARTERS -- THE GAME OF "GALANIFT" 152

CHAPTER X.

OUR DAILY ROUTINE -- BAKING A JERKED KOODOO -- LOSS OF AN
ELEPHANT -- A SEPARATION -- MY ILLNESS INCREASES --
STARVATION -- A GODSEND -- SAD PLIGHT -- FRESH SUPPLIES -- A
HARD MARCH -- NARROW ESCAPE -- AN EXCITING HUNT -- PRIMITIVE
BUTCHERY -- A CURIOUS SHOT -- CARAVAN -- EXCHANGE OF
CIVILITIES -- "CHURCH" -- CHANGE OF AIR -- ACCIDENT TO THE
KITCHEN -- STRANGE VISITORS -- A THUNDERSTORM 173

CHAPTER XI.

AN INGENIOUS BED -- EN ROUTE FOR THE COAST -- A SAD PLIGHT
-- UNPLEASANT TRAVELLING -- FRIENDS -- FORCIBLE PERSUASION
-- AN AMUSING ENCOUNTER -- AN ADVENTURE -- I OPEN A BAZAAR
-- PRICES -- HOSPITALITY -- HAGGLING -- REINFORCEMENT --
LETTERS FROM HOME -- A MISERABLE NIGHT -- FALSE RUMOURS -- I
SELL TWO DONKEYS -- "HARD UP" -- GEESE AND HORNBILLS --
ILL-TIMED THEFT -- STRANGE QUARTERS -- TOOTH-BRUSHES 195

CHAPTER XII.

SELF-HELP -- SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS -- LAID-UP AGAIN -- A
RÉUNION -- HOSPITALITY -- AN OLD FRIEND -- AN ALARM -- ORDER
OF BATTLE -- A FIELD DAY -- "KIND ENQUIRIES" -- OLIVES AND
OIL -- PURCHASE OF A CLUB -- CATTLE PLAGUE -- AN INJUDICIOUS
DINNER -- MY ILLNESS INCREASES -- I HAVE TO BE CARRIED --
LUXURY OF A WASH -- I BUILD A HOUSE -- THE SEA --
CIVILIZATION AGAIN 214

CHAPTER XIII.

FRENCH FRIENDS -- ON BOARD -- COMPARATIVE COMFORT -- A QUEER
FISH -- A DINNER PARTY -- A CARGO OF GAZELLES -- ROUGH
WEATHER -- VOYAGE TO SUEZ -- AND ARRIVAL 243

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

OUR PARTY Frontispiece.

A RACE FOR A SPEAR To face page 70

NARROW ESCAPE OF GOUBASEE " " 91

OUR CAMP AT MASSOWAH " " 118

A WILY BARIA " " 147

SPORT IN ABYSSINIA.