Chapter V: Part II

1.

Stanza iii. page 55.

_Where, shining through the flowery glade,
The mouth of Tyne translucent streams,
Within a liliac covert’s shade
St Baldred’s shrine romantic gleams._

The church, and the old village of Tyningham stood on the west side of the Tyne, about half a mile below the site of the present village. The latter terminated on the east by the side of an elm tree, and was removed for domestic improvements. The ruins of the church still remain, and consist of two beautiful Saxon arches, which are tastefully shaded with shrubbery, and have a picturesque appearance. This spot is now the cemetery of the noble family of the domain. Within the interior of the church there is a small niche, where three shields are sculptured _in relievo_. Below its arch a detached figure reclines, habited in a close gown, with hands claspt in the attitude of prayer. At the feet of this figure lies the symbolical lamb, originally holding the cross, which is broken away. The old carpenter formerly mentioned, told me that this statue, like that of Prestonkirk, was called St Baudrons. This, however, is evidently the statue of a lady.

2.

Stanza iii. page 55.

_But, Time, alas! with viewless hand,
Completes the labours of the Dane,
And triumphs o’er the brand._

Anlaf, the Dane, spoiled the church, and burnt the village of Tyningham, in 941, which, Chalmers observes, is a very early notice of the kirk-town of this place.

“The fierce Dane
Upon the eastern coast of Lothian landed,
Near to that place where the sea-rock immense,
Amazing Bass, looks o’er a fertile land.”—_Home’s Douglas._

While the workmen of the Earl of Haddington were, a few years ago, clearing the ruins of the church, they dug a considerable way in search of relics. About five feet below the niche formerly mentioned something like burnt ashes were turned up, but nothing further discovered. If the relics of the saint were, however, spared by the fiery Dane, while in search of plunder, it is not likely they escaped the mania of the early centuries for this precious merchandise, when the tooths, legs, and arms of the saints were enchased in silver, and bartered at a high rate.

3.

Stanza viii. page 58.

_Far, in the blue haze, dimly seen,
I view the beacon-beaming isle._

The Isle of May, like the Bass, forms a conspicuous object in the Frith of Forth. David I. founded a monastery on the island, for the monks of Reading, in Yorkshire, to whom it originally belonged, and dedicated his benefaction to all the saints. It was afterwards consecrated to St Adrian, who, along with Glodian, Gaius, (or, as others write, Monanus,) archdeacon of St Andrews, and Bishop Stolbrand, were martyred here by the Danes. It was afterwards purchased by William Lamberton, bishop of St Andrews, from the Abbot of Reading; who, notwithstanding the complaints of King Edward, bestowed it upon the canons regular of his cathedral.—See _Holinshed_. Like Whitekirk, it was of old much frequented by barren women on pilgrimage.

This island was next granted in feu by Charles I. to Cunningham of Burns, for the purpose of erecting a lighthouse for the benefit of mariners. A tower of forty feet was built for that purpose. The first builder was cast away, in a tempest raised by witchcraft, while returning from thence to his house in Fife, for which some unfortunate old women were executed.—See _Keith’s Cat._ p. 238, and _Grose’s Scot. Ant._ vol. i. p. 81.

A lighthouse, upon an improved plan, with revolving burners, has recently been erected.

4.

Stanza x. page 60.

_Proud Bass! amidst the crystal sea,
Thou’rt like a fairy-haunted isle._

This picturesque rock rises with a bold and rugged sweep, at least four hundred feet above the surface of the waters, and in the month of July looks like an enchanted island, where web-footed birds come to hold a jubilee. It is situated in the mouth of the Forth, about two miles from the shore, and is inaccessible except by a narrow passage in the west. The base of the rock is computed to be an English mile in circumference. From the depth of the water, extending from thirty to forty fathoms, its entire height may be estimated at six hundred feet. A cavern runs through the rock from east to west, which may be traversed at ebb-tide. It is dark in the centre, where there is a deep pool. While sailing on the south side of the rock, opposite the opening of this cave, it was truly delightful to contemplate its sublime scenery. The rock here appeared piled in tremendous masses, frowning over our heads, and scattered the restless waves as they rose against its rugged summits or washed its everlasting foundations, while myriads of sea birds sat secure and undisturbed on their lofty perches.

Besides the solan geese, which are its principal inhabitants, the Bass contains pasture for at least twenty sheep, celebrated it is said in the annals of gluttony; it has also a small warren of rabbits.

The best season for visiting the Bass is during the incubation of the geese, in the months of June and July. The most propitious time is shortly after sunrise, when the waves are calm, and the greatest variety of birds to be seen. An easterly breeze must be avoided, otherwise the visitor may expect a good ducking if he sails round the north side of the rock.

5.

Stanza x. page 60.

_Alas! we may not mark the spot
Where stood the hermit’s holy cell;
Its sacred precincts are forgot._

About half way up the rock, a little below the old garden, is the remains of a chapel pretty entire, where the ammunition of the garrison was kept when the island was used as a state-prison for the Covenanters. The niches for the holy fonts show that it must have been built prior to the reformation of the church.

The Bass pays annually twelve geese to the church of North Berwick as part of the minister’s stipend.

6.

Stanza xii. page 61.

_Here oft the boatman rests his oar,
While o’er the rock the fowler hung,
Like the bold youth of Kilda’s shore,
Descends to seek the solan’s young._

The solan are commonly taken in the month of August. This is effected by hoisting the fowler over inaccessible places of the rock, by a rope fastened to a girdle. The young birds are killed by striking them on the head, while the boatmen below are ready to receive them. This perilous employment is often attended with danger from the falling of loose stones. Some years ago one of the fowlers would have been buried under a ton-weight of fragments, had he not had the presence of mind to swing himself under a jutting crag, where he remained in safety till the mass rolled over his head.

7.

Stanza xii. page 62.

_That bird, which on gigantic wing,
Like cormorant, delights to soar._

The solan resembles the cormorant and pelican, both in its manner of fishing, by diving from a great height, and the method of securing its prey in a dilatable pouch, of sufficient size to contain four or five herrings. The gannet or solan goose (the _Pelecanus Bassanus_ of Linnæus) was supposed to breed no where in Europe save on the Bass, and the isle of Ailsa in the frith of Clyde; but they are also found on the Stark of Suliskerry, a holm or uninhabited island, a little to the south-west of the Orkney isles, and at St Kilda in the Hebrides.

8.

Stanza xii. page 62.

_Wo to the silvery shoals that lie
’Neath the bright lustre of her eye._

The gannet also resembles the cormorant in its quickness of sight. It has a transparent membrane under the eyelid, with which it covers the whole eye at pleasure, without obscuring the sight, which seems a necessary provision for so weighty a creature, whose method of seizing its prey is by darting down headlong from a height of at least a hundred feet into the water. “They have a crane’s neck, and a strong sharp bill, about the length of one’s middle finger, with which they strike through their prey with such violence, that it often sticks in a board, baited with herring, so as they cannot pull it out again, and are catched by the inhabitants.”—_Journey through Scot._ 1723. Mr Pennant relates a similar story of one of these birds, which, when flying over Penzance, in Cornwall, saw some pilchards lying on a fir plank, upon which, darting down for the purpose of seizing them, it struck its bill through an inch and quarter plank, and was killed on the spot.

_Holinshed_ observes, “Certes, there is nothing in this rock that is not full of admiration and wonder: therein is also great store of solan geese, (not unlike to those which Pliny calleth water eagles, or, as we say, sea herons,) and no where else but in Ailsa and this rock. At their first coming, they gather such great plenty of sticks and boughs together for the building of their nests, that the same do satisfy the keeper of the castle for the yearly maintenance of his fuel. Within the bowels of these geese there is a kind of grease to be had of singular force in medicine, and flaying likewise the skin from their bodies with the fat, they make an oil very profitable for the gout, and many other diseases in the haunches and groins of mankind. In this crag more there growth a herb very pleasant and delicious for sallads, but if it be taken up and planted elsewhere, it either groweth not, or utterly loses its virtues.

“There was some time a stone found here, much like to a water sponge or pumice, hollow on the one side, and of such a nature, that if any salt water had been poured thereunto, and suffered to run through, it would forthwith lose the natural saltness, and become very fresh and pleasant unto the mouth and taste. We hear in these days that this stone is to be seen in Fast Castle, whither it was brought after it had passed many hands for the trial of this matter.”—See _Holinshed’s Chron._ vol. i. introd.

9.

Stanza xii. page 62.

_The puffin, with her crimson bill,
Deem’d sacred by the lone Kurile._

This remarkable bird is also a native of the Bass, and commonly goes by the name of the _Tommy Nora_. It is found, however, in greater plenty on the isle of Craig Leith, near North Berwick, where it takes up its abode in the rabbit burrows. When sailing round the rock on the summer evenings, the bird is heard to make a mournful noise, like a person crying _Ah! ha!_ Its voice has been compared to a dumb person attempting to speak, or to the hum of a large spinning-wheel. This humming sound had a very pleasant effect, when, from the top of the Bass, we looked down on the myriads below, and heard it mingled with the chattering of the guillimot or skout, and the screaming of the sea-gulls.

The puffin is most celebrated for its bill, which is large and flat, with its edge upwards, partly ash-coloured and partly red, of a triangular shape, not unlike the coulter of a plough, hence the bird gets the name of _Coulterneb_. The Kamtschadales and Kuriles decorate their necks with the bill, which the priest puts on with an appropriate ceremony. While in possession of this amulet, they consider good fortune will attend them.

10.

Stanza xiii. page 62.

_This rock! where Pictish chiefs held sway,
Was patriot’s boast of latter day._

The Bass was an ancient possession of the family of Lauder, who sprung originally from Lauder of that ilk, or Lauder Tower.—_Nisbet’s Heraldry_, vol. i. p. 344. According to Henry the Minstrel, Robert Lauder accompanied Wallace in many of his exploits. This family continued in a lineal descent till the reign of Charles I., when it merged into that of Lauder of Beilmouth. In the aisle of the lairds of the Bass, in the old church of North Berwick, a tombstone bears the following inscription, in Latin Saxon characters:—“_Here lies the good Robert Lauder, the great laird of Congalton and Bass, who died May 1311._”

11.

Stanza xiii. page 63.

_As erst in treason’s gloomy hour,
On faction’s billows wildly driven,
My holde did shelter Scotia’s flower,
When from its parent stem ’twas riven._

The Bass sheltered James, the infant heir of Robert III., in 1405, when it was judged expedient to send the young prince to France, to secure him against the dark intentions of the Duke of Albany. Henry Sinclair, Earl of Orkney, was appointed chief attendant in this voyage, and a ship was ordered to the isle of Bass to receive the young prince; but they had only proceeded to Flamborough-head, when they were captured by the English. Nineteen years elapsed before James saw the end of his captivity. While confined in Windsor Castle he wrote his poem of the _King’s Quair_.

The Bass was the last place that held out for James VII. in Great Britain. It was defended by a gallant officer, David, third son of James Blair of Ardblair, who afterwards went to France to his royal master, where he died.—See _Douglas’ Baronage_, p. 191. After the Revolution a desperate race of pirates got possession of it, who had a large boat, which they hoisted down at pleasure, and committed several piracies. Their boat being at length seized or lost, and not receiving their accustomed supply of provisions from France, they were compelled to surrender.

12.

Stanza xv. page 65.

_Then in the Bass’s dungeons strong
Was pouring Babel’s captive song._

The Bass was purchased by the Crown from Sir Alexander Ramsay, soon after the Restoration, 1671, for £4000 Sterling, and converted into a state-prison during the reign of Charles II. and his brother James, where the western Covenanters, called Cameronians, were confined for being in arms against the king.—_Trans. Scot. Ant._—It now belongs to Sir H. D. Hamilton, Bart.

Amidst a multitude of prisoners the most remarkable were, 1. Alexander Peden, of prophetic memory. While Peden was prisoner in the Bass, “one sabbath morning, being about the public worship of God, a young girl, about the age of fourteen years, came to the chamber-door mocking with loud laughter; he said, Poor thing, thou laughest and mockest at the worship of God, but ere long God shall write such a sudden and surprising judgment on thee, that shall stay this laughing, &c. Very shortly after that, as she was walking on the rock, a blast of wind swept her off to the sea, where she was lost.”

Another day, while Peden was walking on the rock, some soldiers passing by, cried, “The devil take him.” He said, “Fy, fy! poor man, thou knowest not what thou art saying; but thou shalt repent that. At which the soldier stood astonished, and went to the guard distracted, crying aloud for Mr Peden, saying, The devil would immediately come and take him away. Mr Peden came, and spoke to and prayed for the soldier, and next morning came to him again, and found him in his right mind, under deep convictions of great guilt. The guard being to change, they commanded him to his arms, but he refused; and said, He would lift no arms against Jesus Christ, his cause, and his people; I have done that too long. The governor threatened him with death to-morrow by ten o’clock. He confidently said, three times, ‘That though he should tear him in pieces, he should never lift arms that way.’ About three days after, the governor put him forth of the garrison, setting him ashore, and he, having a wife and children, took a house in East Lothian, and became a singular Christian.”—See _Biog. Scoticana._

2. Thomas Hogg, minister of Kiltern.—Having contracted a severe dysentery, he petitioned the council for liberation, which Sharpe opposed, declaring that the prisoner was in a capacity to do more hurt in his elbow-chair, than twenty others travelling through the country; and if the justice of God was pursuing him, the clemency of government should not prevent it. Hogg was carried to a low, nasty dungeon, and in a short time recovered. When speaking of the arch-prelate afterwards, he jocularly said, “Commend him to me for a good physician.”—See _Wodrow_, vol. ii. and _Hogg’s Mem._ in _Scots Worthies_.

3. Gilbert Rule, minister at Alnwick. After the Revolution he became Principal of the University of Edinburgh, and colleague of Dr G. Campbell, professor of divinity. Dr Rule sat late at his studies, and Professor Campbell rose early, so that the candle of the one was often lighted before the other had finished his lucubrations. Their lodgings being at a little distance with opposite windows, the one went by the name of the Evening Star, and the other of the Morning Star.—_Crichton’s Mem. Blackadder_.

4. Alexander Gordon of Earlston, who was incarcerated in 1683. His father was slain when on his way to join the Covenanters at the battle of Bothwell Bridge. He is supposed to be the hero of the ballad written in commemoration of that fray.—See _Minstrelsy Scot. Border_, vol. ii. p. 89.

So Earlstoun rose in the morning,
An’ mounted by the break o’ day;
An’ he has join’d our Scottish lads,
As they were marching out the way.

“Now, fareweel father, and fareweel mother,
“An’ fare ye weel my sisters three;
“An’ fare ye weel my Earlstoun,
“For thee again I’ll never see!”

* * * * *

Then he set up the flag o’ red,
A’ set about wi’ bonny blue.[3]

After the battle, Earlston narrowly escaped being taken by the ingenuity of one of his tenants, who, knowing him when he was pursued through Hamilton, made him dismount, and having hid his horse’s furniture in a dunghill, dressed him in female attire, and set him to rock the cradle. On the 22d August, 1684, he was removed from the Bass and ordered for execution; but through the intercession of his friend the Duke of Gordon, his life was spared. He was thrown into Blackness Castle, where he remained till the Revolution.—See _Scots Worthies_, _Fountainhall_, _Minstrelsy_, _&c_.

And, lastly, John Blackadder, a lineal descendant of the house of Tulliallan, who died in 1685, after five years’ confinement. He was buried in North Berwick church-yard, where a handsome tombstone, with a suitable epitaph, has been erected to his memory. His Memoirs, by Crichton, have lately been published.

13.

Stanza xvi. page 66.

_As by Tantallon’s towers I stand,
That crown the wave-worn steep._

Tantallon castle stands about two miles and a half east from North Berwick, on a high rock, overlooking the sea, which surrounds it on three sides. The greater part of the building remains in a ruinous state. The only approach is from the west, which was defended by batteries. It is said to have been built by the Douglases, when the overgrown power of the earls of Dunbar had awakened their jealousy.

The following curious etymology of the place is noticed in _Blaeu’s Atlas_, vol. i. p. 41. Two superintendents of the building, called _Thomas_ and _Allan_, got permission from the lord of the castle to inscribe their names on a prominent part of the walls in Latin, which stood _Tom et Allan_: hence the country people called it the castle of _Tam ’t Allan_.

In 1528 this castle was held for some time against James V. The particulars of the siege may be found in Lindsay of Pitscottie’s Chronicle of Scotland.

John Rolland, author of a pedantic poem called the Seven Sages, resided here about 1544 or 1547. The time and place of composition are thus mentioned in the Epilogue:—

“So in seven weeks this quair was clene compleit,
Out of plaine prose, now keiping meters feit:
Within the fort and towre of _Tamtalloun_,
When the English fleat besyde Inchkeith did sleit,
Upon the sea in that great burning heate.
Both Scottis and Inglisch of Leith lay at the toun,
With scharp assiege, and garneist garisoun,
On ather sort quhair sundrie lost the sweit,
That same tyme I maid this translatioun.”
_Sibbald’s Chron._ vol. iii. p. 287.

During the protectorate of Cromwell, General Monk was detached with three regiments of horse and foot to reduce Tantallon. As the garrison held out, he caused the mortar-pieces to play for forty-eight hours; but these did little execution, till six battering guns being planted, they were so well managed, that the governor was compelled to submit. It was on the high ground, south from St Baldred’s well, where it is said the artillery was planted.

The following letter of General Monk is preserved in the burgh archives of North Berwick, which, on account of the singularity of its style, is worthy of being transcribed:—

_“For my very loving friends the Magistrates of the Burgh of
North Berwick._

“GENTLEMEN,—Having a call from God and his people to march into England to assert and maintain the liberty and being of Parliament, our antient constitution, and therein the freedom and rights of the people of these three Nations from Arbitrary and Tyrannical usurpations uppon their considering persons and Estates, and for a Godly ministry, I do therefore expect from you, the Magistrates of the Burgh of North Berwick, That you do preserve the peace of Comonweal in y^r Burgh, and I hereby authorize you to Suppress all Tumults, stirring and unlawful assemblies, and that you hold no correspondency with any of Charles Stewart’s party, or his Adherents, but apprehend any such as shall make any disturbance, and send them to the next Garrison, and do further desire you to assert, countenance, and encourage the Godly ministry, and all that truely fear God in the Land, and that you continue faithful to owne and assert the interest of the Parliamentary Government in y^r several places and stations. I hope my absence will be very short. But I do assure you that I shall procure from the Parliament whatever may be for the good Government and relief of this Nation, and doubt not but to obtain abatements in your Assess and other public burthens, according to the proportion of England; and what further services I may be able I shall not be wanting in, what may promote the happiness and peace of this afflicted people. I shall not trouble you further but beg y^r prayers, and desire you to assure y^rselves that I am

Your faithful Friend,
And humble Servant,
GEORGE MONCK.”

_Edinburgh, 15th November, 1659._

“I desire that what is behind of the four months of the twelve months Assess may be in aread in sse against it be called for by the twelfth of December next.

I desire you to send me word to Berwick under your hands, how far you will comply with my desires.”

14.

Stanza xvii. page 67.

_Near to Tantallon is a spring,
St Baldred’s well
The maidens tell._

About half a mile south west from Tantallon, a fountain well bears the name of the Saint.

15.

Stanza xviii. page 69.

_And winding round by Hamer’s hill,
Beside her ancient church I stood,
And the blithe priests of Holyrood
Came, marshalling, in merry mood._

The parish of Whitekirk was anciently called Hamer, which in Saxon signifies the greater Ham; and may have obtained this appellation in contradistinction to Aldham. The church and manor of Hamer were granted during the twelfth century to the Monks of Holyrood-house. This Church was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and from the whiteness of its appearance was called Whitekirk. During the seventeenth century, the parish was augmented by the annexation of Aldham; and in 1761 it was farther augmented by the annexation of the adjoining parish of Tyningham.—_Chalmers’ Cal._ vol. ii. p. 547.

Hither many pilgrimages were made. It was under pretence of a pious expedition to Whitekirk, in order to perform a vow which she had made for the safety of her son, that the Queen-mother cozened Crichton, the Chancellor, and carried off James II. in a chest to Stirling.—_Hist. Culdees_, p. 188. Tradition says, that Whitekirk was of old a celebrated place for the fattening of barren wives, who generally returned home (in one sense,) “as women wish to be who love their lords.” Immediately behind the church is a large house, now converted into a granary, where the unfortunate Queen Mary is said to have passed two nights.

On the hill above Whitekirk, a cairn of stones marks the grave of two persons who were slain at a conventicle, by a party from the Bass. This was probably the meeting held here in May 1678, which was dispersed by Charles Maitland, deputy-governor, when James Learmont and his brother, with one Temple, (from Dunbar,) were pannelled, 11th September 1678, for the murder of John Hay, who came with the King’s forces.

16.

Stanza xix. page 70.

_While sylvan spirits hover bland,
And verdant deck the lady’s shrine,
Who bade these canopies expand,
In Gothic-fashion’d wreathes to twine._

To the sylvan taste of Helen, sixth Countess of Haddington, East Lothian is indebted for some of the finest plantations in Scotland. The horticulturist may consult “Treatise on the manner of raising Forest Trees,” Edin. 1761, or Douglas’ Peerage, vol. i. p. 683, for an interesting letter, dated Tyningham, Dec. 22, 1733, from Thomas, sixth Earl of Haddington, to his grandson, giving a history of the progress of these plantations, which arose under the cultivated taste of his lady.

This excellent person was only daughter to John Hope of Hopetoun, and sister to Charles, first Earl of Hopetoun. She died at Edinburgh in 1768, in her 91st year.

THE
SIEGE OF BERWICK;
OR, THE
MURDERED HOSTAGE.
=A Tragedy.=
IN FIVE ACTS.