Chapter VII: Mr. Stanley in Africa

The Search for Dr. Livingstone Energetically Begun -- Progress Delayed
by Wars -- The Successful Journey from Unyanyembe to Ujiji in 1871 --
The “Herald” Cable Telegram Announcing the Safety of Livingstone --
The Battles and Incidents of this Newspaper Campaign -- Receipt of the
Great News -- The Honor Bestowed on American Journalism.

Mr. Stanley found it much more difficult to get into Africa than to that singular land. It was understood, according to the best intelligence to be had that Dr. Livingstone would probably be found, if found at all, not far from Ujiji. From Bagamoyo, on the mainland of Africa, opposite the island of Zanzibar, there is a caravan route to Unyanyembe. The journey generally takes some four months. At the time Mr. Stanley undertook to proceed inland, he found the country disturbed by wars, and though starting now and again, he was delayed many weary months on this account. “Forward and back” was the necessary call of the situation. At length the country became so far quiet between Bagamoyo and Unyanyembe that the expedition, which terminated in success, set forth very early in April, 1871, and, after an unusually rapid journey, the caravan reached Unyanyembe on the 23d of June. Hence letters were dispatched home, but from this time for more than a year, the world remained in ignorance of the fate of the expedition.

Upon the morning of the 2d of July, 1872, however, in the midst of the great Peace Jubilee at the city of Boston, appeared a cable telegram from London to the New York “Herald,” announcing the discovery of Livingstone and the consequent complete success of the great American journal’s enterprise. This telegram is worthy of preservation, though superseded by the fuller information in Mr. Stanley’s letters, as an illustration of newspaper enterprise:

LONDON, JULY 1, 1872.

THE GLORIOUS NEWS.

It is with the deepest emotions of pride and pleasure that I announce
the arrival this day of letters from Mr. Stanley, Chief of the HERALD
Exploring Expedition to Central Africa. I have forwarded the letters
by mail. Knowing, however, the importance of the subject and the
impatience with which

RELIABLE NEWS

is awaited, I hasten to telegraph a summary of the HERALD explorer’s
letters, which are full of the most romantic interest, while
affirming, emphatically,

THE SAFETY OF DR. LIVINGSTONE,

and confirming the meagre reports already sent on here by telegraph
from Bombay and duly forwarded to the HERALD. To bring up the thread
of

THE THRILLING NARRATIVE

where the last communication from him ended he proceeds with his
account of the journey. It will be recalled that when last heard from
he had arrived in the country of Unyanyembe, after a perilous march of
eighty-two days from Bagamoyo, on the coast opposite the island of
Zanzibar. The road up to this point had been in

THE REGULAR CARAVAN TRACK,

and the journey was performed in a much shorter time than the same
distance had been traversed by previous explorers. The expedition

ARRIVED AT UNYANYEMBE

on the 23d of June, 1871, where he sent forward his communication. The
caravan had need of rest, and it was necessary to refit while an
opportunity was at hand through the medium of the Arab caravans then
on their way to various points on the coast with ivory and slaves. The
expedition had suffered terribly, but the heart of the HERALD explorer
never gave out.

THE TERRIBLE CLIMATE

of the countries through which it had passed told on it even more than
the difficulties of the tribes at war among themselves and upon
everything that came in their way and which they were in sufficient
force to attack. The caravans met at the various halting places threw
every discouragement in the way, which tended to destroy the _morale_
of the expedition.

SEEDY BOMBAY,

however, the captain of the expedition, proved invaluable in
controlling the disaffected, whether with tact or a wholesome display
of force when necessary.

THE INCESSANT RAINS,

alternated with a fierce African sun, made the atmosphere heavy,
charged with moisture, and producing a rank, rotten vegetation. In the
mountainous regions which we traversed the climate was of course, much
better, and the result was that the expedition much improved in
health. The miasmatic vapors and other hardships of the journey had
played sad havoc with its number and force.

THE TOTAL LOSS

up to this point by sickness had been one white man, two of the armed
escort, and eight of the pagazis or native porters. The two horses had
also succumbed, and twenty-seven of the asses had either fallen by the
wayside and had to be abandoned or else the rascally native donkey
leaders had allowed them to stray from the kraal at night. As a
consequence, a considerable quantity of the stores were either lost or
wasted, but the rolls of Merikani (American cloth)--for shukkah and
doti--the beads and wire--had been as far as possible preserved, they
being the only money in Central Africa. In July

ALL WAS PREPARED TO MOVE

through Unyanyembe; but before long it was found that almost
insuperable difficulties were interposed. The country there is
composed of thick jungle, with large clearings for the cultivation of
holcus. The utmost alarm and excitement were spread through the native
villages at

THE EXPECTATION OF A WAR.

The inhabitants were shy of intercourse, and it was with great
difficulty that supplies could be obtained. A little further on the
villages on either side of the track were found to be filled with Arab

CARAVANS AFRAID TO ADVANCE

and gathering together for security. The cause of all this alarm was
soon discovered. The ku honga or blackmail levied by the head men of
the tribes as a sort of toll for passage through their territories,
had been inordinately raised in the Ujowa country by

MIRAMBO,

King of the Wagowa. Obstinate fights had already occurred in which
small bands of his soldiers had been beaten, several being killed. He
had, therefore, declared to the traders that no caravan should pass to
Ujiji except over his body. The Arabs hereupon held a council, and,
finding themselves strong in fighting men,

DECLARED WAR ON MIRAMBO.

The HERALD commander took part in this. The Arabs appeared to
anticipate a speedy victory, and preparations for a jungle fight were
accordingly made. The ammunition was looked to, muskets inspected and
matchlocks cleaned. The superior armament of the HERALD expedition
made their assistance a matter of great importance to the Arabs.

THE HERALD GOES TO WAR.

An address was delivered to the members of the expedition through
Selim, the interpreter, and the forces, with the American flag flying,
were marshalled by Captain Seedy Bombay.

THE FIRST FIGHT.

At daybreak on the day following, according to previous arrangement,
the armed men were divided into three parties. The vanguard for
attack, the rear guard as immediate reserve, and the remainder,
consisting of the less active, were stationed with the _impedimenta_
and slaves in the kraals. The advance was ordered and responded to
with alacrity, and the first village where the soldiers of Mirambo
were lying was at once attacked and speedily captured. The inhabitants
were

EITHER KILLED OR DRIVEN AWAY.

Another village followed the fate of the first, and both were left in
ashes before nightfall. The troops were wearied with the hot day’s
work, but all were elate at their success thus far. The commander of
the HERALD expedition, on his return to camp, passed a sleepless
night, and morning found him

IN A HIGH FEVER.

He was therefore obliged to remain in camp, and his forces refused to
fight except under his lead. This weakened the Arab force
considerably, and, although the dreaded Mirambo and his followers,
thirsting for vengeance, were known to be in the vicinity, the day was
passed in fatal inactivity.

THE AMBUSH OF MIRAMBO.

The third day seemed as if about to pass like the preceding, the
HERALD commander still suffering from the fever, when shots were heard
in the direction of the Arab kraals, and it soon became evident that
the wily Mirambo had ambushed the Arabs. This, in effect, was the
case. A superior body of natives, armed with muskets, assegais
(spears) and poisoned arrows, had suddenly burst upon the Arabs.

A TERRIFIC SLAUGHTER ENSUED,

which ended in the rout with the Arabs, who took refuge in the jungle.
The fourth day brought with it the fruit of the disaster. The Arabs
could not be prevailed upon to renew the fight, and desertion and
flight became the order of the day. Even the

MEN OF THE HERALD EXPEDITION DESERTED,

leaving but six with the commander. Mirambo now threatened the town of
Unyanyembe. By stupendous exertion the commander collected one hundred
and fifty of the fugitives; these being convinced by their numbers,
when collected together, that resistance was still possible, resolved
to obey the commander.

FORTIFYING FOR A SIEGE.

With five days provisions on hand the houses were loopholed and
barricades erected, videttes stationed and the defenders told off as
well as their numbers, armament and _morale_ could be individually
depended on.

THE AMERICAN FLAG WAS HOISTED

and the trembling inhabitants awaited the expected attack. This,
however, was destined not to come off, for, to the general delight, a
Wanyamwezi scout brought in the joyful intelligence that Mirambo, with
all his forces, had retired, not caring to risk an engagement, except
in the jungle. Mustering what force was possible, the intrepid HERALD
commander then

STARTED FOR UJIJI,

on the Tanganyika Lake, or Sea of Ujiji. The Arabs endeavored in vain
to dissuade him from this. Death, they said, was certain to the
muzanyu (white man) and his followers. This frightened the already
demoralized pagazis and caused a serious loss to the expedition in the
person of Shaw, the English sailor. Undaunted by the forebodings of
ill and the losses by desertion, the caravan once more was on the
march and pushed forward.

BY ANOTHER ROAD,

to the one where Mirambo and his Africans were awaiting the first
caravan. This road lay through an untrodden desert, and caused

A GREAT DETOUR

in order to come again upon the caravan road in the rear of the
Wajowa. No great mishaps were met with, and when the villages and
cultivated fields of sorghum, and holcus were reached everything
progressed favorably.

AFTER A FOUR HUNDRED MILE JOURNEY

the outlying portions of the province of Ujiji were reached. Word had
reached the expedition of the presence of Dr. Livingstone in the
province within a recent period, and accordingly preparations were
made for

A TRIUMPHAL ENTRY INTO UJIJI.

The pagazis who chanced to be unladen proceeded, beating drums and
blowing upon Kudu horns. The armed escort fired salutes every moment,
keeping up a regular _feu de joie_, and the American flag floated
proudly over all. In the distance lay the silver bosom of Tanganyika
Lake, at the foot of the stately mountains in the background, and
fringed with tall trees and lovely verdure. It was a wonderful relief
to the pilgrims of progress. Before them lay the settlement or town of
Ujiji, with its huts and houses looking dreamily like a land of rest.

THE ASTONISHED NATIVES

turned out at the unwonted display, and flocked in crowds to meet them
with deafening shouts and beating of drums. Among the advancing throng
was noticed a muscular group of turbaned Arabs. As they advanced
still nearer

ONE OF THE GROUP

who walked in the centre was noticed to be differently attired from
the others. The group halted, and the word was passed back that a
muzangu was among them. Spurring forward the HERALD commander indeed
saw that, strongly contrasting with the dusky, sunburnt Arab faces,
was

A HALE-LOOKING, GRAY-BEARDED WHITE MAN,

wearing a navy cap, with a faded gold band and a red woolen jacket. It
was a trying moment, wherein every emotion of hope and fear flashed
through the brain. The fatigues faded in the intensity of the
situation. The questions, was this he who had so long been sought, or
could it be a delusion of the mind, or was the white man some unknown
waif of humanity? crowded the mind, bringing their changing feelings
with them. A few feet in front of the group the HERALD commander
halted, dismounted and advanced on foot.

A HISTORIC MEETING.

Preserving a calmness of exterior before the Arabs which was hard to
simulate as he reached the group, Mr. Stanley said:--

“Dr. Livingstone, I presume?”

A smile lit up the features of the hale white man as he answered:

“YES, THAT IS MY NAME.”

The meeting was most cordial, and the wearied caravan, joyous at the
triumph of the expedition were escorted by the multitude to the town.
After a rest and a meal, in which milk, honey and fish from
Tanganyika were new features,

LIVINGSTONE TOLD HIS STORY,

which is briefly as follows:--

In March, 1866, he informed the HERALD explorer that he started with
twelve Sepoys, nine Johanna men and seven liberated slaves. He
travelled

UP THE ROVUMA RIVER.

Before they had been gone very long the men became frightened at the
nature of the journey, and the reports of hostile tribes up the
country they were to pass through. At length they deserted him, and,
as a cover to their cowardice in doing so, circulated

THE REPORT OF HIS DEATH.

Livingstone proceeded on his journey in spite of the isolation, and
after some difficult marching reached the Chambezi River, which he
crossed. He found that this was not the Portuguese Zambezi River, as
had been conjectured, but, on the contrary, wholly separate. He traced
its course, and found it called further on

THE LUALABA.

He continued his explorations along its banks for 700 miles, and has
become convinced in consequence that the Chambezi is

DOUBTLESS THE SOURCE OF THE NILE,

and that this will make a total length for the mystic river of Africa
of 2,600 miles. His explorations also establish that the Nile is not
supplied by Lake Tanganyika. He reached within 180 miles of the source
and explored the surrounding ground, when,

FINDING HIMSELF WITHOUT SUPPLIES,

he was obliged to return to Ujiji and was in a state of destitution
there when met by the commander of the “Herald” expedition. On the
16th of October, 1871,

THE TWO EXPLORERS LEFT UJIJI.

and arrived at Unyanyembe toward the end of November, where they
passed twenty-eight days together exploring the district. They then
returned and

SPENT CHRISTMAS TOGETHER

at Ujiji. The HERALD explorer arrived at the point of sending this
important intelligence on the 14th of March, 1872, leaving Livingstone
at Unyanyembe.

LIVINGSTONE’S FURTHER PLANS.

He will explore the north shore of Tanganyika Lake and the remaining
180 miles of the Lualaba River.

This herculean task he expects will occupy the next two years.

There have been but few “sensations” more profound than the sensation created by this despatch. As has been said, it threw the great Peace Jubilee into the shade. Sporting men who had just won on the race-horse “Longfellow” or lost on “Harry Bassett,” paused for a while to think of the strange intelligence. The report of the trial of him who had been charged with the murder of the noted James Fisk, Jr. attracted but comparatively little attention. All through the section of the great city known as “Five Points” the news was discussed by the tatterdemalions of the metropolis; all up and down Fifth Avenue, thousands of the best representatives of wealth and of culture canvassed the double-leaded telegram; and Wall street gave it as much attention as it gave to stocks and government securities. The substance of the telegram was sent to the evening papers all over the country and to Europe, and before sunset of July 2d a vast majority of intelligent people of Christendom knew that Livingstone had been found, and through the means of American private enterprise. It was a triumph in which the “Herald” might have been excused, had it indulged in no little self-glorification. Its article upon the subject, however, was greatly national in spirit, and awarded the credit of the success to American journalism, rather than claimed it for itself.[2]

[2] The leading article of the “Herald” upon this subject is worthy of
quotation here as a part of the journalistic history of this
remarkable expedition:

The triumph of the HERALD exploring expedition to search in the heart
of Equatorial Africa for the long-lost Doctor David Livingstone is one
which belongs to the entire press of America as well as to the journal
whose fortune it was to originate and carry it out. It marks the era
in which the press, already beyond the control of even the most
exalted among men, who may hold states and empires in their grasp,
strikes out boldly into new fields and treads daringly on _terra
incognita_, whether of mind or matter. This is distinctively the work
of the American press, whose aspirations and ambitions have grown with
the majesty of the land, and whose enterprise has been moulded on the
national character. In even recent times the work of progress lay in
government hands, or else was wholly neglected. Sir John Franklin
started out amid Polar snows to work out the Northern passage only to
leave his bones among the eternal ice. Hand or foot was not stirred to
learn his fate until Lady Franklin, with woman’s devotion, fitted out
the expeditions to search for him or his remains. When the gentleman
entrusted with the command of the “Herald” expedition had arrived at
Unyanyembe, half way on his journey to Ujiji, he wrote:--“Until I hear
more of him, or see the long-absent old man face to face, I bid you
farewell; but wherever he is, be sure I shall not give up the chase.
If alive, you shall hear what he has to say; if dead, I will find and
bring his bones to you.” To those who neither understood the man nor
the _esprit de corps_ which gives the representative of an American
journal his stamp of vitality the words may have sounded like bombast.
For answer it is sufficient to point to the columns of the HERALD of
to-day. It may have seemed to those who reasoned from a foreign
standpoint that no man could so wrap himself up in his work as to give
utterance to such words with an earnestness of purpose, backed by a
life at hazard from day to day. They simply mistake the spirit of the
American journal. If it were in any other quarter of the globe, by
land or sea, the same enthusiasm, the same dash, enterprise and pluck
would be exhibited, because of the race which he runs for his journal
against equally keen-witted rivals, and not alone for the work itself.
Enterprise, then, is the characteristic of the American press. It is
confined to no one paper, to no one locality. Whatever the Herald may
have done in advancing the national reputation in this respect it is
proud to claim, as the victor in the Olympic games of old was proud of
his laurel crown above all gifts of gold or gems. But there is not a
paper published between the Narrows and the Golden Gate which has not
its own laurels in the line of enterprise to glory in, and there is
not one leaf of the wreath that has not been snatched at and wrestled
for by a hundred sinewy journalistic minds. Thus no one journal on the
Continent looks up to a permanent head of the profession. To-day one
paper may be “ahead on the news;” to-morrow another will snatch the
chaplet from its brows. The enterprise of a contemporary in the late
Franco-Prussian war was celebrated all over the land, as we have no
doubt the success of the HERALD will be when the HERALD’S special
columns are perused to-day.

In England the London _Times_ is looked up to all over as a Triton
among the minnows. It is the great paper. The _Daily Telegraph_ is the
cheapest, spiciest paper published there; the _Standard_ is a careful,
able Tory organ; the _Post_ is a quiet, aristocratic sheet, but the
Thunderer overshadows them all. Instinct with the democratic spirit of
our institutions, the press of America looks up to no lord among them.
As each man born on the soil may be President of the United States, so
each paper--no matter what its origin or where its birthplace--feels
within itself the possibility of precedence in point of worth, brains
and news over all others. We, therefore, reassert that the triumph of
the HERALD Livingstone expedition is the triumph of American
journalism in its broadest sense.

To point this something more, we may say that an American war
correspondent has achieved what one of the most powerful governments
in the world failed to accomplish. How it was done is easily told. It
is probable that an English journal might have succeeded, if it had
undertaken the task; but, like Columbus with the egg, the enterprise
which knocked in the end of the oval difficulty and made the
expedition stand for itself is not a British article.

The story of the meeting of the greatest explorer of any time with the
HERALD correspondent, by the shores of Lake Tanganyika, with one
thousand miles of desert, jungle, jagged mountain path and sodden
valley trail, peopled with brutal, ignorant savages, behind him, is
one which will long be remembered. The HERALD correspondent has kept
his word. Happily for civilization there was no necessity to carry
back to distant civilization the relics of her hero. He is alive and
well and hopes to carry himself home when he has attained the object
of his stay. In March 1866, he started up the Rovuma, but was
deserted, and the false Moosa spread the lying story of his death to
cover his own poltroonery, as was hoped against hope when the baleful
tidings first came to hand. The undaunted Livingstone then set forward
and reached the Chambezi River, which he discovered has no connection
with the Portuguese Zambesi River, which disembogues into the
Mozambique Channel opposite Madagascar. But the gem of his discovery
lies in the fact that the Chambezi is the true source of the Nile. He
followed its course for seven hundred miles towards its source, but
was obliged to turn back in want, with one hundred and eighty miles
unexplored. The Chambezi towards its source is called the Lualaba, and
is not supplied from Lake Tanganyika, and the latter lake has no
effluence to the Nile. To solve the problem of the Lualaba and pass
round the northern shore of Lake Tanganyika, Livingstone purposes
spending two years more in Central Africa. Truly this is great news,
and we congratulate the world that neither the life nor the toil of so
great a man is lost to the world, as the fates seemed so grimly to
threaten. The story of his solitary land-finding will now be read by
joyful millions, who, if they cannot all appreciate fully his labors,
will not grudge him the tribute of lasting admiration.