Chapter I: Preface

Of one of the most delicious episodes in a long period of foreign travel, this volume is the imperfect and hastily written transcript. Even at the time it was written, the author felt its experience to be a dream—so exempt was it from the interrupting and qualifying drawbacks of happiness in common and working life—but, now, after an interval of many years, it seems indeed like a dream, and one so full of unmingled pleasure, that its telling almost wants the contrast of a sadness. Of the noble ship, whose summer cruise is described, and her kind and hospitable officers, the recollection is as fresh and grateful now, as when, (twenty years ago,) the author bade them farewell in the port of Smyrna. Of the scenes he passed through, while their guest, he has a less perfect remembrance—relying indeed on these chance memoranda, for much that would else be forgotten. It is with a mingled sense of the real and the unreal, therefore, that the book is offered, in a new shape, to the Public, whose approbation has encouraged its long existence, and the author trusts that his thanks to the surviving officers of that ship may again reach them, and that the kind favour of the reading Public may be again extended to this his record of what he saw in the company of these officers, and by their generous hospitality.

HIGHLAND TERRACE,
_October, 1852_.

CONTENTS.

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LETTER I.

Cruise in the Frigate “United States”—Elba—Piombino—Porto
Ferrajo—Appearance of the Bay—Naval Discipline—Visit to the
Town Residence of Napoleon—His Employment during his
Confinement on the Island—His sisters Eliza and Pauline—His
Country House—Simplicity of the Inhabitants of Elba 1

LETTER II.

Visit to Naples, Herculaneum, and Pompeii 7

LETTER III.

Account of Vesuvius—The Hermitage—The famous Lagrima
Christi—Difficulties of the Path—Curious Appearance of the Old
Crater—Odd Assemblage of Travellers—The New Crater—Splendid
Prospect—Mr. Mathias, Author of the Pursuits of Literature—The
Archbishop of Tarento 16

LETTER IV.

The Fashionable World of Naples at the Races—Brilliant Show of
Equipages—The King and his Brother—Rank and Character of the
Jockeys—Description of the Races—The Public Burial Ground at
Naples—Horrid and inhuman Spectacles—The Lazzaroni—The Museum
at Naples—Ancient Relics from Pompeii—Forks not used by the
Ancients—The Lamp lit at the time of our Saviour—The antique
Chair of Sallust—The Villa of Cicero—The Balbi Family—Bacchus
on the Shoulders of a Faun—Gallery of Dians, Cupids, Joves,
Mercuries, and Apollos, Statue of Aristides, &c. 23

LETTER V.

Pæstum—Temple of Neptune—Departure from Elba—Ischia—Bay of
Naples—The Toledo—The Young Queen—Conspiracy against the
King—Neapolitans Visiting the Frigates—Leave the
Bay—Castellamare 32

LETTER VI.

Baiæ—Grotto of Posilipo—Tomb of Virgil—Pozzuoli—Ruins of the
Temple of Jupiter Serapis—The Lucrine Lake—Late of Avernus,
the Tartarus of Virgil—Temple of Proserpine—Grotto of the
Cumæan Sybil—Nero’s villa—Cape of Misenum—Roman villas—Ruins
of the Temple of Venus—-Cento Camerelle—The Stygian Lake—The
Elysian Fields—Grotto del Cane—Villa of Lucullus 38

LETTER VII.

Island of Sicily—Palermo—Saracenic appearance of the
town—Cathedral—The Marina—Viceroy Leopold—Monastery of the
Capuchins—Celebrated Catacombs—Fanciful Gardens 45

LETTER VIII.

The Lunatic Asylum at Palermo 51

LETTER IX.

Palermo—Fête given by Mr. Gardiner, the American Consul—Temple
of Clitumnus—Cottage of Petrarch—Messina—Lipari
Islands—Scylla and Charybdis 57

LETTER X.

The Adriatic—Albania—Gay Costumes and Beauty of the
Albanese—Capo d’Istria—Trieste resembles an American
Town—Visit to the Austrian Authorities of the
Province—Curiosity of the Inhabitants—Gentlemanly Reception by
the Military Commandant—Visit to Vienna—Singular Notions of
the Austrians respecting the Americans—Similarity of the
Scenery to that of New England—Meeting with German
Students—Frequent Sight of Soldiers and Military
Preparation—Picturesque Scenery of Styria 63

LETTER XI.

Gratz—Vienna 70

LETTER XII.

Vienna—Magnificence of the Emperor’s Manège—The Young Queen of
Hungary—The Palace—Hall of Curiosities, Jewelry, &c.—The
Polytechnic School—Geometrical Figures described by the
Vibrations of Musical Notes—Liberal Provision for the Public
Institutions—Popularity of the Emperor 76

LETTER XIII.

Vienna—Palaces and Gardens—Mosaic Copy of Da Vinci’s “Last
Supper”—Collection of Warlike Antiquities; Scanderburg’s Sword,
Montezuma’s Tomahawk, Relics of the Crusaders, Warriors in
Armour, the Farmer of Augsburg—Room of Portraits of Celebrated
Individuals—Gold Busts of Jupiter and Juno—The Glacis, full of
Gardens, the General Resort of the People—Universal Spirit of
Enjoyment—Simplicity and Confidence in the Manners of the
Viennese—Baden 82

LETTER XIV.

Vienna—The Palace of Liechstenstein 87

LETTER XV.

The Palace of Schoenbrunn—Hietzing, the Summer Retreat of the
Wealthy Viennese—Country-House of the American Consul—Specimen
of Pure Domestic Happiness in a German Family—Splendid Village
Ball—Substantial Fare for the Ladies—Curious Fashion of
Cushioning the Windows—German Grief—The Upper Belvidere
Palace—Endless Quantity of Pictures 92

LETTER XVI.

Departure from Vienna—The Eil-Wagon—Motley quality of the
passengers—Thunderstorm in the Mountains of
Styria—Trieste—Short Beds of the Germans—Grotto of
Adelsburgh—Curious Ball-Room in the Cavern—Nautical
preparations for a Dance on board the “United States” swept away
by the Bora—Its successful Termination 98

LETTER XVII.

Trieste, its Extensive Commerce—Hospitality of Mr. Moore—Ruins
of Pola—Immense Amphitheatre—Village of Pola—Coast of
Dalmatia, of Apulia and Calabria—Otranto—Sails for the Isles
of Greece 106

LETTER XVIII.

The Ionian Isles—Lord and Lady Nugent—Corfu—Greek and English
Soldiers—Cockneyism—The Gardens of Alcinous—English
Officers—Albanians—Dionisio Salomos, the Greek Poet—Greek
Ladies—Dinner with the Artillery Mess 110

LETTER XIX.

Corfu—Unpopularity of British Rule—Superstition of the
Greeks—Accuracy of the Descriptions in the Odyssey—Advantage
of the Greek Costume—The Paxian Isles—Cape Leucas, or Sappho’s
Leap—Bay of Navarino, Ancient Pylos—Modon—Coran’s Bay—Cape
St. Angelo—Isle of Cythera 115

LETTER XX.

The Harbour of Napoli—Tricoupi and Mavrocordato, Otho’s Cabinet
Councillors—Colonel Gordon—King Otho—The Misses
Armanspergs—Prince of Saxe—Miaulis, the Greek
Admiral—Excursion to Argos, the ancient Terynthus 122

LETTER XXI.

Visit from King Otho and Miaulis—Visit an English and Russian
Frigate—Beauty of the Greek men—Lake Lerna—The Hermionicus
Sinus—Hydra—Ægina 129

LETTER XXII.

The Maid of Athens—Romance and Reality—American Benefactions
to Greece—A Greek Wife and Scottish Husband—School of Capo
d’Istrias—Grecian Disinterestedness—Ruins of the most Ancient
Temple—Beauty of the Grecian Landscape—Hope for the Land of
Epaminondas and Aristides 134

LETTER XXIII.

Athens—Ruins of the Parthenon—The Acropolis—Temple of
Theseus—The Oldest of Athenian Antiquities—Burial-Place of the
Son of Miaulis—Reflections on Standing where Plato taught, and
Demosthenes harangued—Bavarian Sentinel—Turkish Mosque,
erected within the Sanctuary of the Parthenon—Wretched
Habitations of the Modern Athenians 139

LETTER XXIV.

The “Lantern of Demosthenes”—Byron’s Residence in
Athens—Temple of Jupiter Olympus, Seven Hundred Years in
Building—Superstitious Fancy of the Athenians respecting its
Ruins—Hermitage of a Greek Monk—Petarches, the Antiquary and
Poet, and his Wife, Sister to the “Maid of Athens”—Mutilation
of a Basso Relievo by an English Officer—The Elgin Marbles—The
Caryatides—Lord Byron’s Autograph—Attachment of the Greeks to
Dr. Howe—The Sliding Stone—A Scene in the Rostrum of
Demosthenes 145

LETTER XXV.

The Prison of Socrates—Turkish Stirrups and Saddles—Plato’s
Academy—The American Missionary School at Athens—The Son of
Petarches, and Nephew of “Mrs. Black of Ægina” 150

LETTER XXVI.

The Piræus—The Sacra Via—Ruins of Eleusis—Gigantic
Medallion—Costume of the Athenian Women—The Tomb of
Themistocles—The Temple of Minerva—Autographs 155

LETTER XXVII.

Mytilene—The Tomb of Achilles—Turkish Burying Ground—Lost
Reputation of the Scamander—Asiatic Sunsets—Visit to a Turkish
Bey—The Castles of the Dardanelles—Turkish Bath, and its
Consequences 160

LETTER XXVIII.

A Turkish Pic-Nic on the plain of Troy—Fingers v.
Forks—Trieste—The Boschetto—Graceful Freedom of Italian
Manners—A Rural Fête—Fireworks—Amateur Musicians 166

LETTER XXIX.

The Dardanelles—Visit from the Pacha—His Delight at hearing
the Piano—Turkish Fountains—Caravan of Mules laden with
Grapes—Turkish Mode of Living—Houses, Cafés, and Women—The
Mosque and the Muezzin—American Consul of the Dardanelles,
another “Caleb Quotem” 171

LETTER XXX.

Turkish Military Life—A Visit to the Camp—Turkish
Music—Sunsets—The Sea of Marmora 179

LETTER XXXI.

Gallipoli—Aristocracy of Beards—Turkish Shopkeepers—The
Hospitable Jew and his lovely Daughter—Unexpected
Rencontre—Constantinople—The Bosphorus, the Seraglio, and the
Golden Horn 184

LETTER XXXII.

Constantinople—An Adventure with the Dogs of Stamboul—The
Sultan’s Kiosk—The Bazaars—Georgians—Sweetmeats—Hindoostanee
Fakeers—Turkish Women and their Eyes—The Jews—A Token of
Home—The Drug Bazaar—Opium Eaters 190

LETTER XXXIII.

The Sultan’s Perfumer—Etiquette of Smoking—Temptations for
Purchasers—Exquisite Flavour of the Turkish Perfumes—The Slave
Market of Constantinople—Slaves from various Countries, Greek,
Circassian, Egyptian, Persian—African Female Slaves—An
Improvisatrice—Exposure for Sale—Circassian Beauties
prohibited to Europeans—First sight of one, eating a Pie—Shock
to Romantic Feelings—Beautiful Arab Girl chained to the
Floor—The Silk Merchant—A cheap Purchase 196

LETTER XXXIV.

The Bosphorus—Turkish Palaces—The Black
Sea—Buyukdere 201

LETTER XXXV.

The Golden Horn and its Scenery—The Sultan’s Wives and
Arabians—The Valley of Sweet Waters—Beauty of the Turkish
Minarets—The Mosque of Sulymanye—Mussulmans at their
Devotions—The Muezzin—The Bazaar of the Opium-eaters—the Mad
House of Constantinople, and Description of its inmates—Their
Wretched Treatment—The Hippodrome and the Mosque of Sultan
Achmet—The Janizaries—Reflections on the Past, the Present,
and the Future 207

LETTER XXXVI.

Sultan Mahmoud at his Devotions—Comparative Splendour of Papal,
Austrian, and Turkish Equipages—The Sultan’s Barge or
Caïque—Description of the Sultan—Visit to a Turkish
Lancasterian School—The Dancing Dervishes—Visit from the
Sultan’s Cabinet—The Seraskier and the Capitan Pacha—Humble
Origin of Turkish Dignitaries 215

LETTER XXXVII.

The Grand Bazaar of Constantinople, and its infinite Variety of
Wonders—Silent Shopkeepers—Female Curiosity—Adventure with a
Black-Eyed Stranger—The Bezestein—The Stronghold of
Orientalism—Picture of a Dragoman—The Kibaub-Shop—A Dinner
without Knives, Forks, or Chair—Cistern of the Thousand and One
Columns 223

LETTER XXXVIII.

Belgrade—The Cottage of Lady Montagu—Turkish
Cemeteries—Natural Taste of the Moslems for the Picturesque—A
Turkish Carriage—Washerwomen Surprised—Gigantic Forest
Trees—The Reservoir—Return to Constantinople 229

LETTER XXXIX.

Scutari—Tomb of the Sultana Valide—Mosque of the Howling
Dervishes—A Clerical Shoemaker—Visit to a Turkish
Cemetery—Bird’s-Eye View of Stamboul and its Environs—Seraglio
Point—The Seven Towers 234

LETTER XL.

Beauties of the Bosphorus—Summer-Palace of the
Sultan—Adventure with an old Turkish Woman—The Feast of
Bairam—The Sultan his own Butcher—His Evil Propensities—Visit
to the Mosques—A Formidable Dervish—Santa Sophia—Mosque of
Sultan Achmet—Traces of Christianity 240

LETTER XLI.

Unerring Detection of Foreigners—A Cargo of Odalisques—The
Fanar, or Quarter of the Greeks—Street of the
Booksellers—Aspect of Antiquity—Purchases—Charity for Dogs
and Pigeons—Punishment of Canicide—A Bridal
Procession—Turkish Female Physiognomy 245

LETTER XLII.

The Perfection of Bathing—Pipes—Downy
Cushions—Coffee—Rubbing Down—“Circular Justice,” as displayed
in the Retribution of Boiled Lobsters—A Deluge of Suds—The
Shampoo—Luxurious Helps to the Imagination—A Pedestrian
Excursion—Story of an American Tar, burdened with Small
Change—-Beauty of the Turkish Children—A Civilised
Monster—Glimpse of Sultan Mahmoud in an Ill-Humour 251

LETTER XLIII.

Punishment of Conjugal Infidelity—Drowning in the
Bosphorus—Frequency of its occurrence accounted for—A Band of
Wild Roumeliotes—Their Picturesque Appearance—Ali Pacha, of
Yanina—A Turkish Funeral—Fat Widow of Sultan Selim—A Visit to
the Sultan’s Summer Palace—A Travelling Moslem—Unexpected
Token of Home 257

LETTER XLIV.

Farewell to Constantinople—Europe and the East compared—The
Departure—Smyrna, the great Mart for Figs—An Excursion into
Asia Minor—Travelling Equipments—Character of the
Hajjis—Encampment of Gipsies—A youthful Hebe—Note—Horror of
the Turks for the “Unclean Animal”—An Anecdote 263

LETTER XLV.

Natural Statue of Niobe—The Thorn of Syria and its
Tradition—Approach to Magnesia—Hereditary Residence of the
Family of Bey-Oglou—Character of its present Occupant—The
Truth about Oriental Caravanserais—Comforts and Appliances they
yield to Travellers—Figaro of the Turks—The Pilaw—Morning
Scene at the Departure—Playful familiarity of a Solemn old
Turk—Magnificent Prospect from Mount Sypilus 268

LETTER XLVI.

The Eye of the Camel—Rocky Sepulchres—Virtue of an old
Passport, backed by Impudence—Temple of Cybele—Palace of
Crœsus—Ancient Church of Sardis—Return to Smyrna 274

LETTER XLVII.

Smyrna—Charms of its Society—Hospitality of Foreign
Residents—The Marina—The Casino—A narrow Escape from the
Plague—Departure of the Frigate—High Character of the American
Navy—A Tribute of Respect and Gratitude—The Farewell 279

SUMMER CRUISE IN THE MEDITERRANEAN.

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