Chapter II: Part 2

Next to a log cabin one of the most effective in appearance is one built of stone—rough field stones and boulders that can be picked up on the shore of any lake or stream. Naturally, such a house is a pretty big task for an amateur builder—not that it requires much more technical knowledge but because stones have a way of getting pretty heavy when they have to be lifted 8 or 10 feet off the ground. However, the result is well worth the effort.

If you are ambitious enough to want to build a stone cabin, here are some simple directions about how to do it. They are the result of actual experience but, of course, cannot be taken as a practical course in masonry.

The first step is like the old recipe for rabbit stew—you get some rocks and a load or two of aggregate, clean sand and numerous sacks of cement. (Tell the cement dealer what you plan to do and he’ll advise how much of each you’ll need.) You’ll also need a quantity of rough lumber, 2×4’s, 1×6’s, and such, for the framework and a more or less water-tight mortar boat in which to mix your mortar.

A cabin of stone requires a full concrete or rock foundation. The walls will be extra heavy, so the footings as well as the foundation walls should be proportionately wider and thicker than those described for log and frame cabins.

MORTAR FILL
SMOOTH FORM OF PLANKS OR PLYWOOD
MORTAR
FOUNDATION

After the foundation is poured, erect a frame for your house to the height of your roof plate on the inner side of the foundation walls, putting rough boarding on the outside of 2×4 studs. This will give you something to work against to insure plumb walls.

Stone walls should be at least one and one-half feet thick at the bottom (remember this in building the foundation) and taper to eight inches or so at the top. The larger rocks, of course, should be used lower down, although, if the work is carefully done, an occasional large one may be set in higher up to lend effect.

Mix Mortar Thoroughly

Start the first course of stones about three inches from the board form and fill in the space between with mortar. The correct mixture for this mortar is six parts of clean sand to one part of cement. After a little experimentation you will find the correct consistency, but be sure that it is well mixed. As one expert says, “Mix the stuff with your hoe until your back is broken and then mix it some more.” Wet the stones thoroughly before setting in the mortar.

The end of each stone should be firmly bedded in the mortar, and as soon as several courses of rock have been laid, tamp the mortar well down. Small pieces of rock may be pushed into the mortar if you wish to make it go farther.

When you build your wooden form, of course you put up the door and window frames. They can’t be cut out of the walls afterward as with a log cabin. Drive numerous long spikes into the outer surfaces of these frames. This gives you something to “tie” to when you reach that height with your masonry.

Building a stone house is slow work, and since you’ll have to leave your work at times, remember that all mortar that has been laid the day before must be thoroughly wet before fresh mortal is applied on top of it. And the entire walls ought to be wet down at least twice daily for a week or more after completion.

When you have reached the top course of stones, set in a row of threaded iron bolts two feet apart and long enough to allow three inches of the threaded end to stick up. On these you must bolt 2×4’s, so that you have something to nail the rafters to.

2″×6″ WINDOW FRAME
SPIKES TIE FRAME TO MASONRY

When the walls have set, remove the interior wooden forms and go over the inside walls to fill up any air holes. These are not important unless they are too large. The rest of the job is done just as in finishing any other house. You’ll probably want to cover the interior with some material, because concrete is pretty cold and might remind someone of the time he was arrested for speeding.

The cost of a stone house depends on the amount of material you can find lying around the neighborhood and the cost of labor. Some stone cabins, with most of the labor hired, have been built for approximately $2.50 per square foot of floor space. This includes labor, materials, built-ins, electrical wiring and fixtures, and plastered walls. If you find it necessary to hire skilled stone masons or to transport your material considerable distance, the cost will be higher. You can, of course, lower it by doing a larger amount of the work yourself.

Remember that stone work is slow work, so allow yourself plenty of time. The first course or so of stone will drop into place pretty fast, but don’t forget that Rome was not built in a day—and Rome was built of stone.

For making colored concrete, for floors, hearths, etc., a topping containing the color is put on over the previously-poured base. This topping consists of _five gallons_ of water per sack of cement, _one_ cubic foot of sand and 1½ cubic feet of coarse aggregate. You may use factory-colored cement, or mix it on the job by passing the dry cement and coloring matter through a screen with a ⅛-inch mesh until well mixed.

An excellent treatment for colored concrete is to rub the surface thoroughly with equal parts of paraffin oil and benzine. This closes the pores and brings out the color uniformly.

In considering such permanent types of construction as stone, the great advantage of concrete should not be overlooked. Walls of this material are poured between wood, plywood or metal forms in the manner previously described for foundation walls.

Perhaps you object because the finished structure would not be “in keeping” with a woods atmosphere. But one method is possible whereby a facing of natural stone backed by poured concrete combines the advantages of concrete with a stone house “look.” This is called a Flagg Masonry Wall after its originator, Ernest Flagg, New York architect. The illustration shows the method of pouring such a wall.

For a beach house the smooth, modern lines of the concrete walls are quite appropriate for the clean, clear atmosphere of a beach site.

Concrete is fireproof, termite proof, requires little or no maintenance, and is not subject to decay. In a house that is often not in use, like a beach or mountain retreat, the value of a material of these characteristics is obvious.

FURRING STRIPS
LATH & PLASTER, OR ONE OF THE PLASTERBOARDS, OR PLYWOOD
FORM LUMBER OR PLYWOOD
CONCRETE
STONE

FRAME CABINS AND BEACH HOUSES

Frame-type cabins present no structural problems that are unfamiliar to anyone who knows the fundamentals of ordinary frame house construction. The essential details of building almost any sort of simple frame house are the same, the main difference being in your choice of exterior finish.

If your vacation home is a beach house, you may even find the regular type of stucco finish appropriate for your particular location. Or you may want to combine stucco finish with wood siding or with board and batten. The main objective is to keep the structure in harmony with its surroundings.

This is particularly true of simple cabins in the mountains. A brick bungalow, for example, would be splendid for warmth and strength for a hunting lodge, but it would be wholly out of place in the forest, as would ordinary concrete finish, stucco, or certain types of frame houses.

There are a number of western lumber companies that specialize in manufacturing novel types of siding designed primarily for cabins and other buildings with a forest background. Some of these cost only a little more than ordinary lumber and make a very attractive cabin.

Among the novelty sidings, you may buy rounded siding that gives the effect of smoothly finished half-logs, or “hewn” timbers that look exactly like hand-hewn logs. You can even get special end pieces which, when carefully attached, give the effect of projecting log ends. As you can see from the illustrations, this novelty siding can be applied by anyone who knows how to use a set of carpenter’s tools.

If you are planning to build a frame cottage or summer home, the field of design is, of course, limited largely by the amount of money you have to spend. If you are not an old hand at carpentering it would be well to get the assistance of a builder or a lumber company in selecting your materials. A man with a knowledge of building can keep you from making mistakes that might not be discovered until the house was built.

One of the easiest and most effective cabins is built with a “board and batten” exterior. This consists of broad planks ... their width is a matter of your own judgment ... applied either horizontally or vertically. Between each pair of planks runs a strip of batten which may be nailed flat over the seam or, if you get the specially milled battens, there is a groove into which the wide boards fit. A combination of board and batten and stone construction makes an exceptionally attractive exterior if you use some artistic judgment in combining the two.

If you are planning to use the house in the cold months, it is well to insulate the walls at least with heavy building paper. In very cold climates it is best to finish the walls on both the exterior and the interior, filling the spaces between the studs with one of the commercial insulating “wools,” made of wood fibre or asbestos. If you must save money, you can buy sawdust at the local mill and pack it in.

Hand-split shakes also make an attractive cabin finish. The rough pioneer effect of the crude shakes is quite in keeping with the wilderness atmosphere. These are applied in much the same manner as ordinary shingles.

RANDOM WIDTHS
SAW-TOOTHED
ANGLE BUTTS

If you undertake the construction of a frame cabin without the assistance of an experienced carpenter or builder, you should keep in mind the minimum requirements set up by the Forest Service as standard specifications for cabins to be built in deep snow country:

All girders should be not less than 4×4 material spaced not more than
7 feet on centers.

All main posts supporting building should be not less than 4×4, spaced
not more than 7 feet apart in any direction and should rest on rock or
concrete base; this applies to open porches also.

All floor joists (including those under open porches) should be not
less than 2×6 material, spaced not over 2 feet on center.

Studding in sidewalls, where siding runs vertically, should be spaced
not more than 6 feet on center and should be not less than 2×4
material. At least one 2×4 should be placed around the building,
horizontally, between the floor plate and ceiling plate, and the side
boards should be securely nailed to this horizontal ribbon as well as
the top and bottom plates.

On buildings where siding runs horizontally, studding should be placed
not over 2 feet on center on outside walls and be not less than 2×4
material.

Double headers and proper bridging should be installed over all
openings in outside walls. This is not necessary in partitions.

Rafters should be spaced not more than 2 feet on center and should be
not less than 2×4 material on all spans up to 16 feet. All spans of
more than 16 feet should use rafters of not less than 2×6 material and
be spaced not more than 2 feet on center. Rafters and other members of
the roof frame should be of selected, straight-grain lumber.

All ceiling joists should be good, straight-grained sticks not less
than 2×4 material and spaced not more than 2 feet on center. Nail them
securely to both rafters and plate. All buildings with a gable roof
should contain ceiling joists. All spans of more than 14 feet should
have collar beams to support the rafters.

THIRTY CABIN PLANS

a CABIN in the CLOUDS

The ideal mountain cabin should be almost a part of the rugged landscape that surrounds it, with rough walls and stout roof that seem to hug the rocks. The very majesty and sweep of the hills dwarf any attempt by man to build himself a tall, imposing mountain home—it is better to build for simplicity and strength.

In this “cabin in the clouds,” resembling some of the mountaineers’ huts in the Alps, every effort has been made to keep the atmosphere as rustic and as rugged as possible, at the same time providing all the conveniences of a comfortable modern home.

The walls, the designer says, should be of stone, 16 inches thick. The roof should be of redwood shakes or slates, but remember that any roofing must stand storms and very high winds in the mountains. The railing of the car shelter is of stone, also, with roof supports of heavy hewn redwood timbers.

The living room centers around the massive fireplace, which should be of rough stone. It is flanked on one side by a built-in seat, and a wood box on the other, with an outside door. Walls should be finished in rough plaster or wood panelling, with ceiling beams exposed. All floors are of wood except the terrace, which is flagstones.

On the front a broad window overlooks the terrace and, presumably, a sweeping view of a valley. A big sliding door of glass opens on the terrace also.

Opposite the fireplace is space for two built-in bunks in an alcove, enclosed by a curtain hung from a ceiling track. The bunk room proper, with a dressing closet and clothes closet, contains two double-deck bunks.

The kitchen may seem a bit small, but it is larger than many found in modern city apartments, and much more convenient.

a BEACH HOUSE MODERN

A broad beach, with lots of fine white sand, would be the ideal location for this ultra-modern beach house, with its clean, sweeping lines. As in the case of many of the new houses, there is a generous use of glass. In the outside walls are shown 22 windows, which should satisfy any fresh air addict.

Construction of this streamlined beach house calls for a concrete substructure and first floor with wood frame above. To insure a cool house, the most satisfying exterior would be dazzling white stucco, which is an excellent heat reflector. The floors should be of concrete flagstones or tiles, tinted and waxed.

The sun deck is a welcome feature on any beach house, because there are days when the ocean breezes are cool, and one may bask here behind the protection of glass screens.

Inside, the plan calls for a single room with high ceiling, and a series of sliding curtains which cut off the bunk room and a dining alcove if desired. There is a separate bunk room for guests. If double-deck bunks are used, eight persons may occupy the house.

The bathroom has the added convenience of an extra toilet, or the space may be used for another closet. As in all well-planned beach houses, there is an extra shower just inside the entry from the beach.

The whole interior may be done in plywood panels, either natural color or painted in a light-colored eggshell finish.

The broad open spaces beneath the house serve several purposes. They offer ample storage for beach umbrellas, chairs, ping-pong table and such, as well as a dressing room for bathers. By careful planning beforehand, a dumb-waiter could be installed to connect the kitchen with the beach, thus saving many steps when serving a barbecue meal or a cold snack on the sand. It will be noted that the fireplace chimney base has been utilized as a beach barbecue, so that food may be prepared without going up to the main kitchen.

a SKI LODGE in SNOW COUNTRY

1^st Floor
2^nd Floor

Here’s a quaint little mountain hut that the Seven Dwarfs might like to live in. It’s a ski lodge, designed to withstand the roughest weather, yet its construction is simple and the cost extremely modest. The cabin consists of a 16-foot octagonal room on the ground floor for living quarters and a second floor bunk room. Five or six may be accommodated upstairs, since three beds just fit. A wall bed on the first floor sleeps two more.

Construction of this unusual cabin is all of wood, with concrete or flagstone floor. Built for use in cold weather, the walls should be of double sheathing packed with insulating wool, in addition to the shakes applied outside. Eight posts form the frame, with 3×4 rafters running to an octagonal block at the peak. Two 6×8 timbers support the second floor.

Tiny as it seems, this lodge offers a maximum of room for lovers of snow sports. The height is 14 feet from floor to peak.

Most unusual of its features is the door in the roof. At first glance this might seem odd, but the first time the main door is buried under ten feet of snow, you’ll be glad the roof door was put in.

There’s a fireplace on the ground floor, of course, and all the conveniences for a week-end stay. However, in such limited space as much of the furniture as possible should be of the folding type. It will be noted that no provision was made for bath or toilet. These features would have to be in a detached structure, which is preferable to addition of a side room, which would spoil the unique shape of the house.

A number of cabins of this type have been built on the Pacific coast in recent years. One of the first, and probably the original one, was constructed by Fred B. Stephen, Seattle architect, for his family’s use on a site in the Cascade mountains, 85 miles from Seattle.

a CLUB HOUSE for TWENTY

Sun Terrace
Wood
Stove
Bench
Tack Rm.
Living Area
Seat
Wood
2 Beds
Bunk Dormitory—18 bunks
SH
Bath
Bath
SH
Kitchen
Dining Area
Car Shelter—6 Cars
Porch

Here’s a good answer to the problem of a low-cost club house for a hiking or snow-sports group. Since much of the work on such a cabin might be done by the members, construction is as simple as possible. The exterior may be anything from rough tongue-and-grooved boards, the cheapest, to real logs, the most expensive. Interior walls are sheathed with plywood, stained or painted, and the roof covered with composition roofing. The long bunk room, partitioned off for privacy, holds nine double-deck bunks, and has separate bathrooms adjoining for men and women. A stove should be included in this room, for extra warmth.

One may drive to the front door, unload passengers or supplies, and proceed to a stall in the car shelter conveniently. The kitchen is just inside the front door, making trips through or around the house with supplies unnecessary.

The living room, spacious enough to seat twenty for meals, contains two built-in bunks. Off it is a tack room for storing skis and other equipment, which can also be used as a work shop. A large dining table might be used for ping-pong and other games. Both the woodbox by the fireplace and in the bunkroom may be stocked from the outside, a great convenience in winter when fires burn constantly.

Note that the car shelter has space for six machines.

for BATHING and BASKING

Just because a summer cabin is small and inexpensive is no reason why it cannot be smart and distinctive in appearance. The little house shown here could probably be built for less than $1000, yet it has many features worthy of a vacation home costing many times that.

Construction is entirely of wood, in a fashion reminiscent of Japanese houses, with wide doors and a broad, low roof. The easiest and most pleasing finish, both outside and inside would be plywood. The waterproof variety is durable and not costly, and it is so easy to apply that any amateur can turn out a pleasing job. Plywood is adaptable to any of the regulation wood-finish treatments from oiling or staining to painting, and will last indefinitely.

The roof would be attractive if covered with a brightly colored composition roofing, or with stained shingles or shakes.

The house consists of one large room, with alcoves for dining and sleeping. The Pullman-type kitchen, which means that everything is compact and within easy reach, connects both with the dining area and the barbecue patio at the rear of the house—a convenience if meals are to be served outside.

The same thoughtfulness has gone into planning of the bath. It has one door into the bunk-alcove and another opening on the pier, so that swimmers may go to the shower without tracking up the rest of the house.

A curtain shuts off the bunk alcove at night, and pulls back to make this part of the main room by day. Two double bunks provide beds for four persons.

Large folding doors at each end of the house open on the pier and the patio, giving an unusual sense of roominess.

The fireplace arrangement is also quite unusual, having a single chimney which serves three purposes. It carries flues from the fireplace, the kitchen stove and the barbecue grill in the patio. The woodbox is just inside the door for convenient filling.

for SUMMER or WINTER FUN

One of the principal drawbacks to a real log cabin is the amount of work involved, as well as the expense. On the other hand, the cabin shown here is an example of what can be done with “imitation logs” that give the effect of real ones, while the task of building with them is no more difficult than with any finished lumber. In another part of this book will be found illustrations of the various ways this log siding may be applied to obtain rustic effects.

If this cabin is to be left unpainted, it would be wise to apply a coat of silver stain. This gives the illusion of weathering and does away with the “raw” look of a new house. The roof, of shakes, should be treated the same way.

To avoid cluttering up the living room, the designer has provided a separate room for bunks. This one holds two double-deckers and a large clothes closet. A short hall connects with the bathroom. A really novel feature is the pair of small windows which light the “upper” and “lower” of each set of bunks.

The kitchen is well lighted with three windows and a door, and has ample space for roomy cupboards and a work table. The stove can be placed so that the flue connects with the fireplace chimney.

The living room is large enough to hold a fairly large fireplace. It has windows on three sides, in addition to a pair of French doors opening on a rustic terrace.

One of the advantages of this kind of cabin over a real log one, is the ease with which the interior can be finished. Perhaps the most suitable finish would be natural-color oiled plywood panels. Knotty pine or redwood paneling would also be attractive.

CABIN for FOUR is EASY to BUILD

For the amateur builder who wants to try his hand at a cabin, this attractive design presents a minimum of construction problems and calls for only a very modest outlay for materials. At the same time, if the work is well done, this cabin can be made as smart and attractive as one costing twice as much.

The most satisfactory, as well as the easiest way to build this cabin, would be with a frame of redwood timbers covered with half-round imitation log siding. Another finish that is not difficult to work out is with a combination of vertical and horizontal board and batten, running the boards vertically for the walls and horizontally at the gable ends.

Since this is first of all a rustic cabin, it should by all means have a roof of redwood shakes. The manner in which these are laid is responsible for lending interest and claim to an otherwise rather plain roof-line.

The front porch may be either flagstones or heavy planks, although the latter would, of course, call for a foundation. The two seats make an inviting place to rest, but as will be seen from an inspection of the floor plan, they serve for more than ordinary seats. They have corresponding seats inside the living room, and beneath them are concealed two roll-away double beds. Such construction for the beds is a great advantage in a small cabin, since they can be pulled out or put away as needed. This leaves the whole living room, which is 12½ × 20 feet, for any style of decoration you like.

The fireplace parallels the 20-foot dimensions of the room and may therefore be fairly large. A general rule is to make it one-third as wide as the longest dimension of the room.

The kitchen is very conveniently arranged. It has three windows, affording ample light. A dinette, which could be made with a drop table and folding seats if necessary, occupies one side of the room. The stove can be placed so that the flue can go up the fireplace chimney.

This plan was furnished through the courtesy of the California Redwood Association.

COUNTRY PLACE of CHARM

Four walls, a roof and a floor, will make a cabin after a fashion. But a glance at the illustration above will show what a little thought, care and imagination on the part of a good architect will do to those same four walls.

This simple, inexpensive country cottage, sleeping four comfortably, has all the little touches that distinguish a house of real charm. Because of its simplicity, this cabin is adaptable to almost any site. The original was designed by Angelo Hewetson, San Francisco architect, to fit between four huge redwood trees, and to be in keeping with the natural beauty of the location.

The exterior is of heavy sawed siding, although board and batten would also be effective. The roof, stained a rich brown, is of shingles laid irregularly. The siding is stained pearl gray, for a weathered effect, with trim to match, and the doors are painted a soft rose. Inside, this cabin is equally charming. The living room is broad and comfortable, and features a massive fireplace. A “waterback” may be installed in the back of the fireplace, connected with a storage boiler to furnish hot water whenever the fireplace is in use. At other times a water heater, burning liquid gas or oil, would heat the same tank.

The interior finish used by Mr. Hewetson is about as attractive as can be devised, and it’s inexpensive, too. Walls and ceilings in the living room and alcoves are sheathed in knotty pine boards of random widths from 4 to 10 inches, and the doors are all of planks of similar material. All is stained driftwood gray with a touch of rose for warmth. The kitchen and bath are in cream with soft green trim.

The porch, open to the sky, offers an ideal place for basking in the sun without shutting off any light from the interior. In good weather it can be used as a sleeping porch to accommodate an extra guest.

PLANNED for LAZY COMFORT

1^st Floor
2^nd Floor

Just at a glance, would you think it possible for eleven persons to be accommodated in the cabin illustrated here? It is only 20 × 28 feet in inside area, yet such a feat is possible by intelligent use of every bit of floor space. The real secret lies in utilization of the loft formed by the high roof. This is transformed into a balcony-bedroom, with space enough for two double beds and a single cot. Curtains or screens give the necessary privacy. That takes care of five persons.

Downstairs, the living room is furnished with a long refectory table and benches, several easy chairs and a day-bed that opens into a double bed at night. That’s two more. Then, in the alcove off the living room, are two double-deck bunks—and there’s your accommodations for a total of eleven!

As in the case of most of these cabins, this one is adaptable to a number of exterior treatments. Real logs or frame construction with siding and boards and batten are indicated in the drawing. The porches provide two more suitable rooms, where meals may be served in good weather.

John Rattray, of Marysville, built the original of this cabin at Lake Madrone, Butte County, California.

WEEK-END CABIN in the REDWOODS

After the noise and confusion of city life, what more enjoyable change could one find than to spend a quiet week-end in a restful, unpretentious cabin such as this? Because it has such regular, unbroken walls, it would be a fairly easy job to build out of real logs, just as the designer has illustrated it. In many parts of the West, the entire structure could be erected from materials provided by Nature right on the site.

Since this is intended for week-end use, it is not quite such an elaborate cabin as some, but none of the conveniences have been omitted. The big fireplace, built on rugged lines, would provide ample heat for the whole house. Note that a second _stone_ chimney serves the kitchen—don’t ruin the picture by sticking a metal stovepipe through the roof.

The interior walls would look well if the logs were stained or varnished, but for added warmth it might be wise to cover them with wallboard. Inexpensive tongue-and-grooved Oregon pine would be good for the floors, as they would not be subject to much foot traffic. If the floors are to be left unvarnished, rub them with linseed oil as a preservative.

The use of casement-type windows is another good idea, instead of the ordinary kind. They are much more decorative, and there’s none of the bother of stringing sash-cords and weights.

THREE PLANS for GUEST COTTAGES

This trio of little guest cabins will probably be welcomed by those families who have had the problem of entertaining frequent visitors in their vacation home, but who like to maintain a certain amount of privacy that is almost impossible when a group of people have to eat and sleep and play in a summer cabin of limited size.

The guest cabin at the top of the page is one made of real logs. Visitors will enjoy the chance to live in a log cabin, and this one is particularly attractive because its six windows provide what amounts to a sun room. Such a cabin would lend a rustic atmosphere to the grounds of any summer home, even if the main cabin is built of some other material.

The second cabin, at the right, is a simple affair built on a wooden frame with a covering of board and batten. The extension of the roof to include the porch makes this look like a much larger structure than it really is. Note also the treatment of the side windows which carries out this illusion.

The third little cabin is quite unique, since it is built of common, ordinary railroad ties! This is not such a far-fetched idea, either, because many railroads are willing to sell used ties, and sometimes even new ones—and they can be used to make a most effective log cabin with only about half the labor required to hew ordinary logs. Railroads ties are particularly well suited to a small house, since it is not so necessary to splice timbers to gain needed length.

All of these guest cabins consist of a living room containing either a bunk or double bed, and a bathroom. No kitchen is provided, since it is assumed that guests will take their meals at the main house. However, it is a gracious gesture—and one that will be appreciated—to provide a single-burner oil stove or an electric plate, so that breakfast or a late snack may be prepared without invading the main kitchen.

WHERE SKY and WATER MEET

You’d expect to find just such a simple, homey kind of cabin out “back of beyond” where the sky and water meet, because it’s the sort of place just meant for the shores of some quiet lake or stream. It isn’t designed for show, but for comfort-loving people on vacation.

The artist has given us this cabin with an exterior finish of redwood boards and battens, combined with a small amount of stone for added interest, but the same plan would be adaptable to almost any treatment—logs, for example, laid up in stockade fashion, or milled redwood siding or even an all-over covering of hand-split shakes. The roof, by all means, should be of shakes, stained brown or just left to the weather.

A stone terrace and a landing stage for boats is shown in the illustration, but these features are, of course, optional.

Inside you’ll find a 12½ × 18½ foot living room, dominated by a fireplace that takes up most of one wall, but well lighted by windows and doors at each end. The fireplace chimney, incidentally, also serves the kitchen stove.

The two bunk rooms offer ample quarters for four persons even if twin beds are used, but in this, as in many modern cabins, it would be wise to conserve space by using double-deck bunks. There’s plenty of closet space, too—one of them even has a window in it.

There are a number of other points of convenience about this cabin that may not meet the eye, at first glance. Note the kitchen has its door opening onto the terrace, making meals outside much simpler to serve. The bathroom is far more convenient than some found in urban homes. Just to keep the whole family happy, the shower has been placed in a separate enclosure from the main bathroom.

VACATION HOME in SOUTHLAND

Another of those rather streamlined summer homes which some people call “functional” style is shown here. Actually, the word simply means useful, and that is one of the aims of all good architecture. The effort here has been to get away from the frills and gingerbread that make “horrors” of so many older houses. Although this was designed for a beach house, it would do as well in almost any type of location except a forest site. Streamlines don’t seem quite suitable for a woods home. If built away from water, the boat shelter would make an ideal workshop, laundry or storehouse.

Construction is of stucco over wood frame, with a broad, flat roof extended several feet for added shade. Naturally, this flat roof would be unsuitable for snow country, but it is quite effective in other sections. The over-hang, by the way, might be stained green. Foundations should all be of reinforced concrete block, which is strong and cool. The porch rails may be either pipe or stained wood.

Inside, the arrangement is extremely simple, yet interesting. The living and dining areas, connected with the porch by sliding or folding doors, can be made into one very large room for entertaining. On the north side, a long hall connects the bedroom and bath with other parts of the house. A slight rearrangement of part of this hall would make the living room even larger.

The bedroom has accommodations for two single beds or bunks, and there are two built-in bunks or divans in the living room.

a CABIN for TWENTY GUESTS

Not many families would require as spacious a cabin as this, but the plan can be altered in various ways to expand or eliminate the accommodations as needed. As it is, this would make a splendid club for an outdoor group, since it can be built for a fairly reasonable sum and is not a complicated construction problem.

The long bunk room, divided by a hall, has partitioned enclosures which will hold either a single bed, double bunk or even a two-deck double bunk, thus providing accommodations for either four, eight or sixteen persons. Beyond the bunk room are two dressing rooms and two baths, making it possible to care for guests of both sexes conveniently. If additional beds are necessary, several folding beds could be installed in the big living room.

The screened porch is a feature that is a good addition to any cabin. It gives an extra room—an ideal place for meals—and by the installation of inexpensive hinged windows, the porch can be used regardless of the weather.

Preparation of meals for as large a group as may occupy this cabin presents somewhat of a problem, so the designer has made the kitchen unusually spacious. Work-tables are shown along each wall, but these can be reduced to allow for a refrigerator, large range, etc.

As in the case of the other club house presented in this book, construction can be as simple or elaborate as the owners desire. If amateur labor is going to be used, the wisest choice of materials would be those requiring the least technical knowledge. As shown here, the cabin is wood frame, covered with imitation log siding combined with flush siding above the level of the porch railing. The roof is of shakes.

MOUNTAIN HOME at ARROWHEAD

1^st Floor
2^nd Floor

Inspired by a Normandy-French house built on the shore of Lake Arrowhead, the plan illustrated here presents a spacious summer home for a large family or one which does much entertaining. An idea of the size is indicated by the fireplace, which has an opening of 9½ × 5½ feet, topped by a huge oak beam.

The exterior is pleasingly finished in board and batten with gable-ends of siding, and a slate or shake roof. The porch is flagstone with rustic rail.

The first floor, besides a magnificent living room, contains a master bedroom and bath, maid’s quarters and the kitchen. Upstairs are five minimum-size guest rooms and a bath. Four of the bedrooms are lighted by charming dormer windows.

An attractive way to finish the interior, to keep it in the provincial spirit, would be to use rough plaster walls with exposed ceiling beams and a plank floor in random widths pinned with wooden dowels. The furniture should be hand made, patterned after simple French peasant styles.

When the owners built the original of this home they salvaged old hand-wrought iron pieces from an abandoned construction camp to make much of the hardware, and for the rest, they used modern lacquered iron hardware, with the finish burned off. It was tempered in hot oil and then hand-hammered to give the proper look of age.

the BIGGEST LITTLE CABIN

BIG ROOM 16′-0″ × 23′-6″
Kitch. 6′-5″ × 8′-6″
Ba.
C.
SH.

Some people would be cramped for space in a ten-room house, while others live with perfect freedom in a pup-tent. It’s all a matter of adapting oneself to the situation.

Here, for example, is a cabin that might be too small for two persons, while as a matter of fact it will sleep six without crowding at all. That’s not just a theory, because a similar cabin has been used for several years up in the Mt. Rainier country with great success. It’s just the easy-going, unpretentious sort of place a man would love, where he can wear old clothes and let his whiskers grow, and the odors of coffee and sizzling bacon are sweeter than the most exotic perfume.

As illustrated this cabin has an exterior of wide planks and a roof of shakes. It would make an ideal log cabin, or take any one of a number of finishes. If any kind of siding is used, a beautiful effect could be obtained by use of silver-gray stain. It makes a new cabin look as if it had stood through many winters. If shakes or shingles are used for roofing, be sure to include about 10 per cent of dark-stained ones with the lighter colors, to give a dappled look like sunshine through the trees.

The real secret of this little cabin lies in the use of three folding double beds instead of the regular kind or bunks. They are hinged at one end and can be put up out of the way, concealed behind curtains or cupboard doors. Built-in double-deck bunks are, of course, a fine addition to any cabin, but they do cut down the space even in a 23-foot living room.

The little flagstone entry may seem like a fancy addition to such a cabin, but it is decorative—and insures against mud puddles at the front door.

The kitchen is particularly well arranged, with lots of work table space and room for storage shelves above. The bath, although not large, contains all the comforts of home.

BEACH HOUSE on a BLUFF

Any family fortunate enough to live near the ocean will find this house, although primarily a vacation home, is well suited to a year-round residence. Along the southern coast especially there are many such beach houses whose owners wouldn’t think of living in town.

A number of very pleasing ideas have been included here by the designer. Although this appears to be just a two-room house, there are features which make it as commodious as a four-room one at practically no additional cost. For example, the living room and bedroom are the principal parts of the house, but the terrace provides an ideal outdoor dining room, and the sun deck is just the place for sleeping out when the weather is clear.

Stucco on a wood frame sheathed with insulating board forms the outer walls, and plywood is used inside. These interior walls could be plastered, but this would cost slightly more. All windows, as well as the sliding and folding doors, have steel frames. Floors are of colored and polished concrete.

A good color combination would be white for the exterior, with all exposed woodwork, such as garage doors, stained tobacco brown. The terrace rail and the spiral stair should be tile red. Inside, the most restful finish would be flat paint in a pastel blue or green, which is easy on the eyes in a location where there is so much bright sunlight.

The owner’s bedroom, with dressing room and closet, and the bath adjoining, make a very convenient unit away from the rest of the house. A wide closet in the living room will hold one or more roll-away beds for extra guests. Also, note the spacious woodbox which can be stocked from the garage.

The dining terrace, with its decorative tree, is protected from the wind. From here the spiral staircase leads to the sun deck over the bedroom.

The fireplace is a rather necessary feature even in warm climates. It is of stucco over concrete blocks. The designer has suggested a novel idea in this connection: to insure a cool air space between the ceiling and roof in summer, a ventilator is run from the ceiling up the chimney stack.

a CABAÑA—MEXICAN TYPE

The inspiration for this charming little house has come down through the years from designs used so well by the early Californians, many of whom brought with them the traditions of their Mexican and Spanish ancestry. While the architect, Arthur L. Herberger, of Los Angeles, specified this as a stucco dwelling, a favorite medium for this type of house, it would be an ideal design to work out in adobe, such as the builders of other days would have used. As in so many of these old houses, the front entrance has an air of welcome, but the patio for private gatherings is placed at the rear, away from general view.

Adobe clay can be found in many parts of the West, and if your property happens to have a bed of this earth, the house can be built for very little if you do all the work. When all labor is hired, however, adobe is frequently more expensive than some other types of construction. Properly cured adobe blocks last for centuries.

Two treatments can be suggested for the front entry. It might be framed with brightly colored Mexican tiles set into the stucco or adobe, or the lintel and sides might be made of heavy hewn timbers.

Whether adobe or stucco is used, the roof should be of shakes or sun-baked tiles.

Inside, the early day spirit can be carried out by the use of rather rough plank walls, whitewashed, or oiled cedar panels. The living room should extend to the roof, with the rafters stained brown or painted with a gay Mexican design. Attention to details, such as the fireplace, which may be of adobe or other handmade bricks, and the choice of hardware, will add much to the charm of such a house.

CABIN for FOUR in HIGH SIERRA

Here is a big, comfortable cabin of no particular period of design—just a grand place to while away one’s leisure time in some secluded spot where the only sound is the music of the wind in the pines. The broad flagstone porch is just the spot to spend lazy afternoons, and the living room is large enough for entertaining but not so large that it would be hard to heat.

According to the original design, this cabin might be built with a board and batten exterior, finished with a preparation of linseed oil and rotten stone—or it would be beautiful covered, roof and all, with silver-weathered shakes or shingles. In either case, the trim should be in a bright color for contrast, and the chimney would be best if built of rough field stones.

Inside, the living room might be finished in knotty Western cedar vertical-channel boards, sanded until they feel like satin and rubbed with linseed oil. Here again, for contrast, the trim and doors might be painted some bright color. The designer suggested waxed vermillion lacquer for the floor, but if this sounds too bright, it could be left natural color, or perhaps covered with one of the tile patterns of inlaid linoleum.

The two bedrooms, just for variety, could be panelled in knotty pine, while the bathroom and kitchen would be nice in some gay color such as canary yellow.

The arrangement of the fireplace at the back of the house allows construction of a feature which is especially popular in southern California—an outdoor fireplace. A single chimney carries both flues. The inner fireplace may be used for heating purposes, while the outside one is ideal for barbecues on the terrace.

for BEACH or LAKESHORE

Here’s a thoroughly modern little cabin with very trim lines. It will fit into almost any sort of sloping site. Shown here, it’s a mountain cabin with stone foundations forming the walls of a garage for two cars. However, with only a few minor changes, the same plan could be used for a beach house, and the garage could be transformed into a boat house.

Construction details are quite simple. The foundations, stairway and retaining walls are stone, which can often be had for nothing on the site. The upper structure is wood frame, covered outside with milled siding. The studding is so planned as to make application of wallboard or plywood very easy, for the interior.

If the cabin is to be built in snow country, such a flat roof would have to be supported with unusually strong beams. The simplest covering would be composition roofing. To provide a serviceable walking surface, a wood floor raised on slats should go over this built up rooting. Another excellent—and cheap—roofing for a deck that will have considerable foot traffic is made by applying canvas over the matched roof boarding, just like the deck of a boat. If kept painted, this type of roofing is entirely satisfactory.

This is essentially a one-room structure, but it includes in a compact space all the conveniences of a much larger house. At one end of the living area is a small but complete kitchen, screened by a cupboard. On the reverse side of this cupboard is a hinged table that swings down at meal times.

Sleeping quarters include two double-deck bunks against one wall, with closet room at one end and the bathroom at the other. This entire area can be screened off with sliding curtains hung from a ceiling track. There is also room for a couch or day bed on one side of the fireplace. Wood storage is outside, but the small closet by the fireplace could be used for this.

Another interesting feature is the barbecue on the roof deck. It is built into the chimney, but if such an item adds too much to the cost, a portable barbecue would do quite as well.

a CABIN in the SANTA CRUZ

For anyone who wants to satisfy that inner urge to live in a real log cabin, no better guide could be followed than the plans shown here. A glance at the illustration really doesn’t give an idea of the roominess and comfort of the place that is apparent from a study of the floor plan. However, this cabin would be quite a task for an amateur builder to undertake.

The original of this cabin was built by the Hugo Eastmans on a knoll in the Santa Cruz mountains. The rustic idea is carried out in every detail, with real logs, a rough stone fireplace and rugged rafters, but inside are all the conveniences of a modern residence. A pergola of rustic poles shades the front entrance.

Because of the size of the cabin it is unnecessary to crowd the living room with beds. There is one, but it folds up and is concealed in a closet. There are two comfortable bedrooms, each with private bath. One of the baths opens into the kitchen also.

Since this is a real log cabin, every possible detail should be made of this material, including door and window trim, porch rail and possibly the living room furniture. The floor should be of random-width planks, pinned with wooden dowels.

Light is an important factor in a log cabin, so much care should go into planning the color scheme. If the cabin is of peeled logs, the most beautiful interior finish would be to give the walls a couple of coats of clear varnish. This brings out the whiteness of the logs and makes them easy to keep clean.

The bedrooms, for contrast, might be done in greenish blue and the kitchen in grey or tan.

here is a CABIN THAT GROWS

The building of any sort of a vacation cabin represents quite an investment for the average family, and it is sometimes necessary to omit or hold back on certain features in order to make the budget work out. The plan illustrated here is a splendid example of a charming cabin that started as a modest little place with just the minimum amount of room.

In its first stage, the owner can erect the central frame, which includes the living room, a bunk-room, kitchen and bath. This all fits into a 19- × 20-foot structure, and may be sheathed on the outside with board and batten, as above, or any type of material that fits the budget. A feature adding a great deal of charm is the pair of casement windows at the front.

This much of the house could be built the first year, with perhaps a temporary shelter for the car at the rear. The following season, or as soon as needed, two real bedrooms could be added on one side, utilizing the space formerly taken by bunks for closets. It will be noted in the plan marked “Second Stage” that a stairway to a cellar is indicated, but the cellar, of course, is optional.

On the opposite side of the house, the garage may be constructed, either attached directly to the house, or as shown here, with a small porch and a breakfast room in between.

Following the style of many of the recent houses, this design uses a nice combination of board and batten and fitted masonry.

This plan was designed by Howard H. Riley, Seattle architect, and was furnished through the courtesy of the West Coast Lumbermen’s Association.

RUSTIC CABIN for TWO FAMILIES

This plan of a two-family cabin is presented as a result of numerous requests from Pacific Coast families who want to enjoy their vacations together. The problem is somewhat more difficult than planning a single house, but the features illustrated here should make it possible to give two families a cabin at only slightly higher cost than an ordinary one.

The construction of such a cabin, in most cases, must be fairly reasonable. Therefore, the one here is built of wood frame covered with board and batten, on a low concrete foundation. Roofing may be of any type that meets the budget.

A large living room with a massive fireplace is the central feature inside. Here both families may gather, or they may find privacy on separate porches on either side.

Since meals would probably be eaten at the same time by both groups, the kitchen and dining alcove have been made common to both sides.