Chapter I: Preface

While I was engaged in writing my ‘Month in Switzerland’ of last year, there was in my mind a half-formed thought, that it might be the first of two or three sketches of the country and of the people. This, notwithstanding that I forbad its growing into anything so visionary as a common expectation, did yet, though somewhat illogically, dispose me to acquiesce in publishing what might have been regarded as the commencement only of a series, which would require time and opportunities for advancing towards anything at all approaching to completeness.

One of the omissions of that first ‘Month,’ the Swiss Allmends, or commonable land, I studied this year with some attention, and, too, with some assistance, for which I was indebted both to the Government, and to several Swiss investigators of the history and present action of the system. The results of this study will be found in the following pages.

As to the excursion itself: the ground it covered was greater in extent, and of more varied interest, than that of the excursion of the previous year. The narrative of its work, objects, and occurrences I give unbroken by digressions. To this the chapter on Einsiedln is not an exception, for it is a contribution to the study of that form of religion which still occupies what was the area of the excursion; and the right understanding of a people includes the right understanding of their religion.

Instead of a sketch-map of the ground passed over this year, which, indeed, would be of little or no value, I prefix to this volume a really good map of the whole country. For this I am indebted to Messrs. Keith Johnston of Edinburgh, and of 18 Paternoster Row, London. It will be found useful not only for the ‘Month’ of this year, but equally for that of last year, and even for ordinary travelling purposes, for it gives the roads, railways, mountains, and glaciers both of Switzerland, and of the contiguous region of France and Italy.

F. B. Z.

WHERSTEAD VICARAGE: _Nov. 24, 1873_.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
PAGE

Bretzwyl--Berne--Zurich--Interlaken--The Allmends of the Delta
of the Lütschine 1

CHAPTER II.

A cultivated Italian 16

CHAPTER III.

The Brünig--Lungern--Sacheln--Sarnen--Alpnach--Stanz--Ennetburgen 22

CHAPTER IV.

Buochs--Gersau--The Bay of Uri--Altorf--Am Stag--Wasen
--Göschenen-Schöllinen--The Devil’s Bridge--The Urseren Thal
--St. Gothard 39

CHAPTER V.

Val Tremola--Airolo--Dazio Grande--Faido--Bodio--Bellinzona
--Locarno--Lugano--Bellaggio--Como 62

CHAPTER VI.

Bellinzona--Airolo--St. Gothard--Andermatt--The Oberalp
Alpe 85

CHAPTER VII.

Am Stag--Klus--The Surenen--Engelberg 101

CHAPTER VIII.

Stanz--Beckenried--Schwyz--The Hacken Pass--Einsiedln 120

CHAPTER IX.

Einsiedln 136

CHAPTER X.

The Lake of Zurich--Rapperswyl--Glarus--The Linththal--The
Pantenbrücke 161

CHAPTER XI.

The Klönthal--Vorauen--Richisau--The Pragel--Muotta--Brunnen--The
Rigi Kulm 183

CHAPTER XII.

Lucerne--Alpnach--Through Unterwalden--Meiringen--The
Kirchet 202

CHAPTER XIII.

The Grimsel--Obergesteln--Munster--Viesch--The Eggischhorn 225

CHAPTER XIV.

The Rieder Alp--The Bell Alp 247

CHAPTER XV.

Brieg--The Valais--Lausanne and Gibbon--Details and Plan of
the Excursion--Conclusion 272

CHAPTER XVI.

The Swiss Allmends 297

INDEX 363

A SECOND MONTH IN SWITZERLAND.