Chapter XXXIII: From Chicago to Omaha

Returns to Michigan City.--Joliet.--Thomas Babcock.--Herbert
Glazier.--Ottawa.--La Salle.--Colonel Stevens.--Press
Notice.--Taken for a highwayman.--Milan.--Davenport.--Press
Notice.--Iowa City.--Des Moines.--Press Notice.--Attacked by
prairie wolves.--Council Bluffs.--Omaha.

Captain Glazier having succeeded so far in his novel and adventurous undertaking, felt little concern as to his ability to accomplish the entire journey from ocean to ocean. He had ridden but one horse--his faithful "Paul," thus far, and having returned to Michigan City, found him quite recovered and ready to pursue the journey. On the sixteenth of September he took his departure from the latter city, and after riding a distance of twenty-eight miles, rested for the night at Hobart, Indiana.

On the seventeenth he crossed the boundary between Indiana and Illinois. On Grand Prairie, after dark, his ears were made familiar with the peculiar howl of the prairie wolf, numbers of which followed in his track for a distance of two or three miles. Not having seen any of these animals before, he supposed them at first to be dogs, until advised by "Paul's" manner and movements that they were animals less friendly to his equine companion.

At four o'clock in the afternoon, Glazier rode into Joliet, and met Mr. Thomas Babcock, his advance agent, on Jefferson Street. Preparations had been made here for the delivery of the lecture, and several prominent citizens called upon him, having heard of his projected visit to the place. His brother Herbert, who was also acting in the capacity of advance agent, had departed to Ottawa to prepare for a lecture there on the twentieth. While at Joliet, Captain Glazier stopped at the Robertson House, the proprietor of which, Mr. Conklin, sent word through the agent, that the captain was to consider himself his guest.

At the suggestion of Mr. Conklin, Captain Glazier on leaving Joliet, rode his horse along the tow-path of the Michigan Canal, and borrowing a hook and line from a gentleman who was fishing, caught twenty-three perch in less than half an hour, the canal seeming literally alive with this fish.

Leaving Morris, in Grundy County, Illinois, his journey lay along the north bank of the Illinois River, and after encountering a very severe rain storm, he reached Ottawa, September twentieth, stopping at the Clifton House. From the proprietors of this hotel he received many courtesies. The lecture, as arranged, was delivered in the evening with the usual satisfactory results.

On leaving Ottawa, the captain followed the telegraph poles along the Illinois River, passing a large number of very fine corn-fields, and overtaking an emigrant train on its journey from Ohio to Western Nebraska. La Salle was reached at six o'clock on the evening of the twenty-first. Here he enjoyed the society and hospitality of Colonel R. C. Stevens, and was introduced to a number of other prominent gentlemen, who were attracted to him by their interest in the projected monument to General Custer. The lecture was delivered at Opera Hall, Colonel Stevens making the introduction. The following letter may be presented here to show the estimation in which Captain Glazier continued to be held as he progressed in his journey westward:

La Salle, Illinois,
_September 25th, 1876_.

To Captain Willard Glazier: I take pleasure in expressing to you on
behalf of many of our citizens, the gratification afforded our
people who listened to your instructive and entertaining lecture
given at Opera Hall on Saturday evening. While in conversation with
several of our prominent citizens--among them, W. A. Work,
superintendent of our public schools; A. J. O'Connor, clerk of the
City Court; W. T. Mason, Esq., and others; all of whom were present
and heard your lecture--I was requested to write you and tender
their hearty thanks for the entertainment, and their good wishes
for your success in your ride across the continent. Should you ever
again visit our city, you can rest assured you will be most
cordially received.

Very truly yours,
R. C. Stevens,
Late Colonel U. S. Volunteers.

The La Salle _County Press_ noticed the lecturer in the following terms:

"We have not often met with a more agreeable and pleasant gentleman
than Captain Willard Glazier, who entertained a very respectable
number of our citizens at Opera Hall on Saturday evening by
delivering a lecture on 'Echoes from the Revolution.' The captain
has a fine voice and his manner of delivery is decidedly
interesting, while his language is eloquent and fascinating. His
description of the battles of the Revolution, and the heroes who
took part in them, from the engagement on the little green at
Lexington down to the surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown, was
grand indeed, and was received with frequent and enthusiastic
applause. In conclusion he referred in an eloquent and touching
manner to the 'Boys in Blue' who took part in the late war for the
Union, and all retired from the hall feeling that the evening had
been spent in an agreeable and profitable manner.

"Captain Glazier served under Generals Kilpatrick and Custer during
the late war, since which time he has devoted much labor to
writing, and is now making the attempt to cross the continent from
Boston to San Francisco on horseback, for the purpose of collecting
material for another work. He left Boston in the early part of May,
and will endeavor to reach the Sacramento Valley before the fall of
the deep snow. His horse, 'Paul Revere,' is a magnificent animal,
black as a raven, with the exception of four white feet. He was
bred in Kentucky, of Black Hawk stock, has turned a mile in 2.33,
but owing to his inclination to run away on certain occasions, was
not considered a safe horse for the track. The captain, however,
has broke him to the saddle, and also convinced him that running
away is foolish business; consequently he and the captain have
become fast friends, and with 'Paul' for his only companion, the
gallant cavalryman proposes to cross the continent. Success attend
him!"

Having heard at La Salle that he would find no difficulty in securing a night's lodging at a village named Hollowayville, Captain Glazier pushed on for that point, but on applying at the only place of accommodation for travellers, was looked upon suspiciously by the German host and his _frau_, who politely intimated their belief that he was either a highwayman or a horse-thief! These latter gentry had for some time infested that section of Illinois, and Glazier inferred from the manner of the people that they more than half suspected him to be one of the James or Younger brothers, whose exploits they had probably read of.

Turning his back on the "Grand Pacific Hotel," he at length succeeded by dint of much perseverance, in lodging himself and "Paul" at a farm-house for the night, but not before he had fully satisfied the worthy farmer and his wife that he had no evil designs in desiring to spend the night with them.

On the following day, September twenty-fifth, the captain rode through a rich farming country, replete with "corn-fields, fine stock and oceans of fruit."

Passed through Wyanet, Annawan, and across the prairie--smiling corn-fields and ripe orchards occasionally relieving the seemingly interminable ocean of grass--and arrived at Milan, Illinois, on the evening of the twenty-seventh, remaining for the night.

Here he met a Mr. Pullman, an old and intelligent miner who had recently arrived from the Pacific coast, from whom he obtained valuable information concerning the country between Omaha and Sacramento. He also found a number of congenial spirits at Milan, chiefly New Yorkers, who had spent some years in the Far West, and their conversation partook of a practical nature bearing on his journey.

Leaving Milan on the following day, he crossed the Government Bridge, which unites Rock Island with the fine city of Davenport, Iowa, and registered at the Burtis House--the rider and his horse continuing in the best of health.

The lecture at Davenport was delivered at the usual hour at Moore's Hall to a very large and applauding audience, General Sanders presenting him. The brass band of the place volunteered their services, and appeared in full uniform. The Davenport _Gazette_ of October fourth said:

"The lecture of Captain Willard Glazier at Moore's Hall last
evening was attended by a large and appreciative audience. The
captain was introduced by our worthy fellow-citizen, General
Sanders, who spoke of the lecturer's career as a soldier and an
author, and said he was _en route_ for the Pacific coast on
horseback, and lecturing for the benefit of the Custer Monument
Fund...."

The following notice is taken from the _Democrat_ of the same city:

"We had the pleasure of meeting Captain Glazier this morning, who
arrived here on horseback from La Salle on Saturday evening. He is
making the journey from Boston to San Francisco on horseback, and
alone, for the purpose of seeing the country, studying the people,
and gathering materials for a new work he is engaged upon. Captain
Glazier is well known to fame as a writer, having published several
valuable works, among them a war-record entitled, 'Capture,
Prison-Pen and Escape.'

"At the breaking out of the war, Willard Glazier, then a mere
youth, entered the Harris Light Cavalry, under Colonel Judson
Kilpatrick, and remained in the service until the close of the
rebellion, his career being marked by many adventures and
hair-breadth escapes. His feat of riding on horseback across the
continent, unattended, to gather materials for a book, is certainly
without a precedent, and shows a brave and intrepid spirit. His
horse 'Paul' was an object of great curiosity and interest."

Leaving Davenport, our traveller passed through Moscow and reached Iowa City October fifth. The weather was now becoming very cold, and he found it necessary to dismount occasionally and walk some warmth into his limbs.

Registering at the St. James Hotel, Iowa City, Captain Glazier lectured in the evening to a very full house, a profusion of cheers greeting him on his arrival upon the platform, whither he was escorted by George B. Edmunds, Esq.

Continuing his journey through Tiffin and Brooklyn to Kellogg, all in the State of Iowa, he witnessed, he says, some of the finest landscapes and grandest farms he had yet encountered during his journey. He rode into Colfax, October twelfth, and Des Moines on the following day.

"I have not seen a brighter or more stirring city in my line of march than Des Moines," writes Captain Glazier in his Journal. He wandered over the city in company with two or three of the leading citizens, admiring its numerous fine buildings and the evidences of its rapid progress; and the next day the Des Moines _Leader_ came out with the following notice of his visit:

"Captain Willard Glazier, the horseback traveler across the
continent, took in the Exposition on Saturday evening with intense
gratification. He says he has seen no place, on his route from
Boston, more promising than Des Moines. Among the calls he received
at the Jones House was one from Captain Conrad, a prominent
attorney from Missouri, and now settled in his profession in this
city, who was a fellow-captive with Captain Glazier in Libby Prison
during the rebellion. He continued his journey westward yesterday,
with the best wishes of the friends he has made during his short
stay here."

Captain Glazier speaks very highly of the extremely courteous treatment he received while at Des Moines.

Adel, and Dale City, and Minden were passed, and arriving at Neola, we find the following entry in the journal: "Weather most disagreeable. A drizzling rain made my ride to this place decidedly gloomy. My journey to-day, as usual, since entering Iowa, has been over the boundless, never-ending prairie. I have never in my life beheld a grander sight than this afternoon, when I reached the summit of an immense tableland between Avoca and Minden."

Wishing to reach Anita before halting for the night, he ventured to continue on the road after dark, although for some time before sunset he had been unable to see a farm-house or even a tree as far as the eye could reach. Giving "Paul" the rein, he followed a blind road, after crossing a sluice-way, which ultimately led them to a haystack on the prairie, where the captain decided to spend the night. A pack of prairie wolves, or coyotes, soon came upon the scene, several of which he shot, but he was shortly after reinforced by a friendly dog, who came to his rescue and kept the coyotes at bay for the remainder of the night. In the morning at daybreak he was glad enough to say adieu to the haystack where he had passed one of the most unpleasant nights of his journey.

It may here be mentioned that the _coyote_ partakes of the natures of the dog and the wolf, and is less dangerous to encounter in the summer than in the winter, which is a characteristic of its wolfish nature. In the winter, when food is scarce, these animals will attack man, but if a bold resistance is offered, they speedily decamp.

Hastening forward on his journey through various small and more or less enterprising cities of the prairie, our traveler reached Council Bluffs at eight o'clock in the evening of October twentieth. This promising city is located three miles east from the Missouri River, and contains an enterprising population of some 20,000; its history dating from 1804. The locality is surrounded by high bluffs, and hence the name given to the city.

Striking the Missouri opposite Omaha, our horseman found he would be compelled to ride up the bank of the river and cross by ferry to the northern section of the city. On reaching the boat, "Paul" declined to embark, but with some encouragement and assistance he was at length made to understand that when rivers cannot be bridged or forded, they can sometimes be ferried, and so yielded to necessity.

Omaha is almost equidistant between the Atlantic and Pacific, and has sprung up, flourished and waxed great in the twinkling of an eye. It is now the grand gateway through which the western tide of travel and emigration is passing. The first house was erected here in 1853, and the population now numbers in the neighborhood of 30,000. Omaha can boast of as fine business blocks, hotels, school-buildings and churches as can be found in many older and more pretentious cities in the East. There are also numerous elegant private residences, with grounds beautifully ornamented with trees and shrubbery, which sufficiently attest the solid prosperity of Omaha's business men.

A story is told of the postmaster of Omaha which illustrates the changes made during the past few years. Mr. Jones, one of the first pioneers, was appointed to the office of postmaster in the autumn of 1854. At that time there was no office, while letters were rarities. The few letters that did come were kept by the postmaster in the crown of his hat till he met their owners. Only a few years have elapsed since this primitive state of things, and the post-office of Omaha has expanded from a hat into a handsome stone building, worth $350,000, in which some twenty clerks find full employment.

Hearing of the impossibility of riding his valuable horse across the Alkali Plains, he resolved to leave him at Omaha until his return from San Francisco, and to continue his journey on a mustang. In these plains the soil for two or three feet seems saturated with soda, and so poisons the water that if drunk by man or beast, after a fall of rain, is sure to be fatal. "Paul" was therefore turned over by his master to the care of G. W. Homan, proprietor of the Omaha Livery Stable; and a good serviceable mustang purchased of a Pawnee Indian, to replace him.