Chapter VII (2)

The selection of India teas for blending is more difficult than that of either China or Japan, most India teas possessing a sharp, acrid or “baked” flavor not found in the former kinds and the natural result of excess of tannin and artificial curing. These “peculiarities” consumers in this country greatly dislike, and to such an extent that is only when the finest grades are used that they can be neutralized, disguised or well-tempered with the heavier bodied China sorts that they will use them at all. For an “all-India blend” the best plan is to mix three or four different district kinds together in equal quantities—a strong, heavy Assam, a brisk and pungent Cachar, a soft and juicy Deradoon and high-flavored Kangra or Darjeeling; the latter will impart a distinctive tone to the entire combination. But fairly excellent results may also be obtained from a blend composed of equal parts of Cachar and Darjeeling alone.

=11. (Low-Priced)=—Is produced from proportionate quantities of a heavy-drawing Broken-leaf Assam or Darjeeling Oonfa Congou and Cachar Souchong, the whole making a rough-looking but full-bodied, strong and “grippy” tea.

=12. (Medium)=—Prepared from ½ Darjeeling Souchong, ½ Kee-mun or Ningchow Congou and ¼ Paklin. Its predominant feature will be delicacy, though not sufficiently so to please a general trade, the Paklin detracting from the body, but imparting a rich, deep color to the whole.

=13. (Choice)=—Is a good combination certain to be appreciated by lovers of the India and Scented varieties, is made from ½ of a brisk, pungent Assam Souchong, ¼ Ningchow or fruity Kintuck and ⅛ Foochow Caper. The Ningchow should be grey-leaf and as heavy as can be procured, but without being coarse or “tarry,” and the Assam as pungent as can be obtained at the time.

SOME ENGLISH BLENDS.

Blended teas are the rule in England, where the skillful mixing of tea has become an art, very little, if any tea being sold to consumers that is not mixed or blended in some manner, every dealer, both wholesale and retail being identified with or noted for some particular flavored tea. Many of the blends sold in London, although differing widely in character, are most skilfully and scientifically combined, the greatest care being taken that no tea is introduced which might act detrimentally upon any other tea in the blend. The majority of these blends are markedly distinct, almost opposite, the chief features of one being a rough, strong, but ripe Saryune Congou, that of another being an even-leafed, delicate-flavored Chingwo, the base of a third being a plain Ningchow or fruity Oonfa, to which is added an Assam Pekoe or Souchong to increase its thickness and pungency as well as give tone to the mixture, together with a small quantity of low-priced Kaisow to reduce its cost. But however great the divergence in the blends, whenever knowledge and judgment have been brought to bear on the subject success has followed in its wake, and although the most of the combinations are exceedingly popular there is still ample room for the introduction of others as well as for improvements upon those that are at present in use.

=14.= The following is a very popular London blend, and will be duly appreciated among English residents generally: 3 pounds Kaisow Congou, 2 pounds Souchong, 2 pounds Assam, 1 pound Pekoe and 1 pound Foochow Oolong. The foundation of this combination as will be observed, is composed of China Congous, the Souchong enriching, the Assam giving sharpness and pungency, the Oolong softening and mellowing and the Pekoe imparting aroma and piquancy to the entire.

=15.= Another English blend, cheaper, and consequently not as satisfactory, is composed as follows: 6 pounds Ningchow, 6 pounds Oonfa and 5 pounds Cachar or Darjeeling Congous, 5 pounds Oolong, 1 pound Caper and 1 pound Pekoe. The Congous forming the base of this blend being lacking in strength, an extra quantity of Cachar is required to “bring them up,” while the equal quantity of Oolong softens and the Scented teas give a tone to the high-toasty flavor of the India.

In Blending teas scoops or guessing should not be relied on, but scales and weights always used in measuring. If it is worth the time and trouble to test a number of teas so that the most suitable may be selected, it certainly must be worth a little more of each to weigh and arrange the proportions in the best and most advantageous manner, and not risk the success of the combination by a rough conjecture at the various quantities composing it. The advantage of correctly weighing tea for blending is not surpassed by that of selecting it in the first place, and a blend should never, under any circumstances, have its cost reduced by the introduction of a tea coarser or rougher in leaf than that of the majority of the kinds composing the mixture. Low-priced teas when used for this purpose should be clean, plain and sweet, as a tea of more pronounced character will stamp its own impression on the other teas instead of its being lost among them, its coarse features standing out prominently, while the superior qualities of the finer grades will be, if not entirely obliterated, so marred as to be unrecognizable. Whereas, if the blend is so arranged that the most powerful tea is also the highest grade in it, the effect is that all the other teas are elevated to its level. Teas should on no account be ever blended in wet or damp weather, as they have a natural susceptibility for absorbing moisture and all surrounding odors. After blending, they should be immediately replaced in the original lead-lined package and covered, or in tightly-covered cans, to exclude the air and protect them from the weather, and then allowed to stand from a week to ten days in order to let them assimilate and unite their opposite qualities.

VARIOUS METHODS OF PREPARING FOR USE.

In China, where tea has been in use from time immemorial, and where it not only forms the regular beverage of the people but also administers to the luxury of the epicure, it is generally prepared in the cup. The tea service consists of large porcelain cups which fit into a silver base, a smaller cup and cover, the leaves being placed in the large cup which is filled with boiling water and also covered. In about two minutes when the tea is drawn it is decanted from the large to the smaller cups, the cover being used to strain off the tea, after which it is drank without the addition of either sugar or milk. Another shorter method is to first put a small quantity of leaves in a cup and place a perforated silver-lid on top to keep them down, _briskly_ boiling water is then poured on and the cups covered with a saucer to prevent the aroma from escaping. The tea is then allowed to brew or “draw” in this manner from eight to ten minutes, after which the infusion is drank from the original cup. By these simple processes only the more volatile and stimulating properties of the leaves are extracted the tannin or astringent principle being retained in the leaves and an immeasurably much finer beverage produced than by any other known method.

The Mandarins and wealthier Chinese prepare it in a small hollow ball made of either gold or silver, about the size of a walnut, suspended from a finger-ring by a slender chain of the same material four to five inches long. This “tea-ball” is divided in the middle, the halves being hinged and perforated with innumerable holes, but is often made like a globular sieve of gold or silver wire connected in the same manner. The halves are filled with tea-leaves and then clasped tight and suspended by the ring and chain from one of the fingers of the right hand into a porcelain cup of freshly boiling water and gently moved to and fro or up and down until the water is colored to the desired height, the strength of the infusion thus prepared depending much on the length of time the tea-ball is agitated in the cup, making it strong or weak as may be required. The Chinese invariably make the infusion with rain or spring water heated to a high degree, the ebullition lasting only a few minutes and poured on the leaves just as soon as the bubbles appear on top of the water.

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The Japanese, to whom tea is as valuable as it is to the Chinese, first reduce the leaves to a fine powder by grinding them in a small hand-mill made for the purpose, and then mix it with hot water to the consistency of a thin pulp, in which form it is sipped, not drank, particularly by the aristocracy and richer people, being made and served to visitors in the following manner: The tea-table, with the powdered tea enclosed in a box, is set before the company and the cups filled with boiling water as much of the powder as would cover the point of a knife put into each cup, which is then stirred and mixed with a curious denticulated instrument until the liquor foams, in which state it is served to the company, and sipped while warm. Customarily they strain the liquid before drinking, but frequently the tea and pulverized leaves are drank together in the same manner that the Turks and other Orientals use coffee.

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In Cashmere a beverage called “Cha Tulch” is prepared from tea by boiling the leaves in a tin-lined copper pot to a strong, dark decoction, and while boiling briskly _phule_ (red potash), anise-seed and a little salt is added, after which it is poured into a kettle and finally served in porcelain tea-cups. It is also prepared there in a vessel termed a _Chajos_—kettle and tea-pot combined—and poured direct into the cups, but is used only after meals, more particularly after the morning repast. The morning meal, consisting of this decoction and some plain biscuit served hot. Another preparation, known as “churned tea,” made in a similar manner, but afterwards regularly churned like milk, is highly prized among them, being used exclusively for entertaining visitors. And there is no doubt that the Cashmere ladies talk scandal, vent their grievances and discuss their bonnets and their babies over this peculiar beverage in the same manner as do their more civilized sisters in America at their “five o’clock teas.”

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Vumah cha or “Cream tea” is the favorite form in Turkestan in the preparation of which only Black tea is used, but is a much stronger decoction than that ordinarily made. The leaves are boiled in a copper pot and the color heightened by lifting spoonfuls up and letting them fall back again into the vessel while boiling, cream being added to it meantime and bread soaked in it, after which it is eaten. Another preparation termed Seen cha or “bitter tea” is made from Green tea infused in the regular way, but drawn for a shorter time, as the lighter the color the higher it is valued.

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The Persians boil the leaves in a pot or kettle until the water assumes a blackish color and bitter taste, after which they add fennel, anise-seed, cloves and sugar to it, while the Hindoos and Cingalese simply put the leaves in seething water and use the liquor only without the addition of any other ingredient. In Chinese-Tartary tea is prepared in the customary manner as with us, but the liquor and leaves are swallowed together. The Mongols generally add milk, but make a much stronger decoction and use only the infusion, while the Bokharis use only Black tea mixed with camel’s milk or suet, breaking up their bread in it, always carrying a bag of it with them when traveling, giving it to their innkeepers to brew as they need it.

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In Siam when the water is well boiled they pour it on the leaves which have been put in an earthen pot proportional to the quantity they intend to make, the ordinary amount being as much as they can take up with the finger and thumb to a pint of water. They cover the pot until the leaves have sunk to the bottom and then serve it up in china dishes to be drank as hot as can be endured without sugar or milk.

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A preparation called _Shamma_ or “residue” is made from the spent or exhausted leaves—that is, leaves once used—in Beloochistan, and chewed like the pan or betel-leaf is in India and the coca in South America, and is claimed to have the same exhilarating effect in enabling them to stand fatigue and long journeys.

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Tea is prepared for use in Thibet by first grinding the leaves and mixing them with bullock’s blood. This compound is then pressed into the form of bricks, dried by a fire-heat and wrapped in sheepskin until required for use, in which form it also serves as a currency throughout Central Asia. A kind of “bouillon” or soup is made from them by boiling in water and adding salt flour, oil, tallow or camel’s milk.

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Among the Arabs tea is prepared by first placing a large kettle over a wood fire to heat and then filling it with water, the leaves being meantime mixed with salt and thrown into the water as it heats. When it approaches the boiling point they are rapidly stewed and lifted with a large ladle until the liquid becomes dark brown, when it is poured into another vessel, the kettle being cleaned meanwhile and a paste composed of meal and butter put in to fry in it. The tea infusion with cream added is then poured on the whole, ladled as before, after which the mass is removed and set aside to cool. In this condition it is ladled into wooden mugs and served up, the decoction thus prepared forming both meat and drink, satisfying hunger and thirst at the same time.

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Tea in Morocco is regarded as a “course meal” the tea-pot or kettle is first filled with Green tea, sugar and water in such proportion as to make a thick syrup, which is used without the addition of milk or cream, but frequently add spearmint, wormwood, verbena, citron, and on great occasions ambergris. It is usually drank while seated cross-legged on soft carpets, spread on the floor around a costly tray with small feet raising it a few inches from the floor, furnished with glasses in place of cups, nothing else being taken at the meal. An infusion made of tea and tansy is also a favorite beverage with the people of Morocco which is highly aromatic and tonic in its effect, and claimed by them to be a remedy for debility.

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In Switzerland it is customary to mix cinnamon with the leaves before making the infusion, and brew both together at the same time in the usual manner. While in France and other continental countries brandy, wine, or other liquor is generally added to the beverage before drinking.

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The Russians, who are a nation of tea-drinkers, and who are close enough to the Chinese to have received some knowledge of their methods of preparing tea for use, are very particular in using fresh-boiled water. They prepare it in the same manner as with us, sliced lemon being invariably added to the infusion before using, which wonderfully improves the flavor, making a delicious beverage. Sugar or milk are seldom added, but in cold weather a kind of liquor called “Vodki” is substituted for the lemon, the latter making it a potent drink, sending a glow all over the body. The vessels used by Russians in making tea consists of a small china tea-pot and a “Samovar” invariably, but the tea is not brewed or “drawn” in this vessel as is generally supposed, it being simply the utensil in which the water is boiled, taking the place and serving the same purpose as our tea-kettle. It is usually of brass, though often of other metal, urn-like in shape, but, unlike an ordinary urn, having an inner compartment or cylinder running through the middle, in which is placed burning charcoal for heating the water to an extreme temperature on the principle of a tubular boiler. The charcoal is not lighted until the Samovar is placed on the table, the water being drawn on to the tea as required, the tea being first put in a porcelain or earthenware tea-pot and filled from the Samovar; the first water is poured off the tea as soon as it is put on, being used merely to carry off the dust. A second water is then used for drawing the tea, sufficient to make a strong infusion, being poured on at once, after which the tea-pot is covered, an ample “cosy” being fitted over it to keep the tea warm and prevent the aroma from escaping, and is then allowed to draw from four to five minutes. Sufficient of this beverage is poured into each cup or _glass_ and a slice of lemon added, as tea is drank chiefly from glasses set in metal frames in Russia, and the glass refilled with boiling water from the Samovar.

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It is strange that nothing is ever done in this country by dealers to attempt to educate or enlighten their customers how to properly prepare their tea, study the water or preserve its aromatic properties after purchasing, seeing, as they must, how little the art is understood in this country particularly. Good tea can be kept intact, like good wine, for years with considerable advantage to both dealer and consumer alike, and there is no valid reason why consumers of tea should not be as particular and fastidious as buyers of wine. But to obtain good tea in the first place the consumer should purchase only the best, it requiring much less of the finer grades to make a good infusion—purchasing only from the most reputable dealers, those who know or study to understand their business. As a nation, the American people want the best of everything, or, as they characteristically express it, “the best is good enough for them,” and they intend to have it if money can purchase it. But of what avail is the best—tea for instance—if it be not prepared properly or in such a manner as to develop and secure its more delicate, subtle, volatile, refreshing and exhilarating properties. A country that expends annually upwards of sixteen millions of dollars on this commodity alone ought to devote a little more time and trouble in studying the best methods of preparing it and in extracting its most desirable and fragrant qualities.

Tea may be made depressing and injurious, or exhilarating and wholesome, according to the manner in which it is treated and prepared for use. Many who imagine that a high, dark-colored liquor indicates strength, boil the leaves, while others, again, spoil the tea by putting the leaves into the boiling water, some people putting the leaves in cold water and then placing the vessel over the fire to boil, prolonged infusion being still another serious mistake. All of these methods produce the same evil results—that of extracting an increased amount of the tannic acid—thereby destroying the flavor of the tea by giving it a bitter and astringent taste as well as imparting an almost ink-black color to the infusion.

The falsely economical custom of filling the tea-pot a second time without removing the exhausted leaves is another error in the making of tea, as the theine which is only soluble in fresh-boiled water, is wholly extracted in the first drawing and cannot for this reason be present in the second, the latter being merely a decoction composed chiefly of tannin. To avoid this error a sufficient quantity of tea should be made in the first drawing or fresh leaves supplied as needed. And still another reprehensible practice is that of adding fresh leaves to those that have already been used once, it being utterly impossible to add either to the strength or flavor of tea by putting more leaves in the tea-pot after the first drawing, for the reason that _tea-water_ will not extract the active principle—theine—from the dry leaves of fresh tea; _only fresh boiling water will do this_. The use of tea-water simply increases the amount of tannin, darkens the color, destroys the flavor and only adds to the quantity of leaves already in the pot without in the least affecting the active principle, so that if it be necessary to increase the strength of the tea prepared, draw some fresh leaves in a separate vessel and add the liquor to that already made.

Tea being an _infusion_, not a _decoction_, it should be _brewed_, not _stewed_, the object being to extract as much of the _theine_ or refreshing principle and as little of the _tannin_ or astringent property as possible, without, at the same time, either boiling or overdrawing. So that in the proper preparation of tea for use, the aim and object should be to extract as little of the _tannin_ as possible and as much of the _theine_ and _volatile_ oil as can be conveniently extracted without permitting the infusion to boil, to obtain which most desirable result the following general rules are recommended: Put the requisite quantity of leaves in a covered china or earthenware vessel—avoid tin or metal of any kind, even silver—then pour on fresh, _briskly_-boiling water and let stand where it will keep _hot_ without boiling from seven to ten minutes according to the variety of tea used. In this time, while the tea is _drawing_, only the refreshing and stimulating principles (theine and volatile) are extracted from the leaves. Boiling or prolonged infusion dissolves and brings out the astringent principle (tannin) which injures the nerves and impairs digestion, for which reason no tea that has been either boiled or overdrawn is fit to drink. When tea has been boiled or overdrawn it can be readily detected by the exceedingly dark color of the liquor, as well as by its bitter and astringent flavor.

To insure a really good “cup of tea” the kettle must be filled with _fresh_ water—if distilled the better—and boiled for about three minutes; there will be a sparkle about tea made with fresh-boiled water that it cannot receive from flat, hot water, which has been boiled long or repeatedly. For moderate strength it requires one heaping teaspoonful of good tea to each half-pint of boiling water or an ordinary tea-cup half-full to a quart of water will make a sufficiently strong infusion for five persons. No metal vessel, not even one of silver, is fit to make tea in, nothing being better adapted for the purpose than the old-fashioned tea-pot of heavy, glazed, brown earthenware, covered with a tea-cosy—a tufted cushion, cap-shaped, which envelopes the tea-pot, keeping the tea warm and the aroma from escaping. This vessel must be first “scalded” and set on the range to dry and keep hot, after which the tea is put in and allowed to heat for a few minutes before the boiling water is poured on the leaves, and the infusion allowed to draw or “brew” from five to ten minutes according to the variety of tea under treatment.

India and Ceylon teas are usually “drawn” in five minutes, longer infusion, owing to their great excess of tannin, making them still more bitter and astringent than they naturally are under ordinary conditions. The addition of extra quantities of milk and sugar, however, greatly modifies their great strength, sharp pungency and pronounced flavor. China Green and Japan teas require from six to eight minutes to “draw” thoroughly, while China Oolongs are best at from eight to ten. China Congous yielding lower percentages of tannin than most other varieties, the time allowed should be longer than ten minutes if a full yield of their best properties should be desired. They will also be found more suitable to temperaments to which teas containing larger quantities of tannin are found injurious or objectionable. China teas in general do not require much milk or sugar, while Japans are more pleasing and palatable without the addition of either.

Everything should be clean, the water fresh and the tea drawn at a specific heat, to insure which requires a brisk fire or gas heat, and different treatment according to the season of the year. Care should be taken that the water boils, it being much better to let it boil for a few minutes than use it under the boiling point. In winter the vessel should be made hot and the leaves heated in it before the water is poured on, for about a minute, while in summer the tea-pot need not be heated or the water poured on while boiling, but should be allowed to cease for a few seconds, more or less, according to the heat of the day. It is also a needless operation to pour a small quantity of water on the tea for a preliminary drawing, as is frequently done. Always fill the tea-pot, or pour in at once the quantity required, but for the more temperate seasons a modification of these methods may be adopted. The longest time that any tea should be allowed to steep is from five to ten minutes. As soon as it has been steeped this length of time, at the outside, it should be served. Even if it is allowed to remain on the stove a few minutes after this time it will be ruined.

The character of the water used greatly influences the liquor and flavor of the tea. Soft water should always be used when available, it being next to impossible to make good tea with hard water. Excess of lime in the water also deteriorates the infusion, the last difficulty may, however, be remedied by the judicious use of carbonate of soda, as much as would cover the face of a dime being sufficient for an ordinary drawing of tea.

Tea being an extremely delicate and sensitive article, it should be protected from all foul and foreign flavors, its susceptibility to the odors of other articles being a source of danger and deterioration, as it readily absorbs the smell of coffee, cocoa, spices, meats, fish and other commodities of pronounced flavor. Even when securely packed in the lead-lined chests in which it is received from the producing countries, the change from the glowing heat of Eastern skies to our atmosphere deprives it of much of its pleasing fragrance. For this reason the complaints so frequently made would not arise if always kept in places free from contagion or stored in a dry, warm temperature and not exposed to atmospheric influences.

BEVERAGES PREPARED FROM TEA.

=Iced Tea=—Put the requisite quantity of leaves in an earthen vessel and pour on briskly boiling water until the vessel is nearly full, and let it infuse or draw from two to three minutes; in no case permit it to boil, as boiling or long infusion extracts the tannin and imparts to it, even the best tea, a disagreeable, herby or astringent taste. When infusion is complete, strain the liquor out of the tea-pot into a jar, demijohn or other covered receptacle, and place it in a cool place for a few hours, or until wanted, then serve in a cup or goblet, adding some cracked ice and a slice or two of lemon. A fine grade of Chinese Congou or Souchong is best adapted for this purpose. Choice Oolong is also good, but Japan tea should never be used, as it is not pleasing when iced to a well-regulated palate. Fine Imperials and Young Hysons are also excellent for those whose nerves can stand Green tea, the first two, however, are best of all, having an especially agreeable flavor when iced. Plenty of ice is needed, which should be _cracked_, not _crushed_, and the lemon cut in quarters, the juice being squeezed out and the pulp scraped into the tea. The rind should never be used, as the oil contained in it imparts to the beverage a bitterish taste; use neither milk or sugar unless you are compelled to from habit. It is the bitter flavors of the tea and lemon together that is required to allay the parched feeling of the palate and throat.

=Extract of Tea=—In hot weather an infusion of tea-leaves made in cold water is much superior to that made in hot or boiling, for the reason that the aroma will not be dissipated. An extract made in this manner may be bottled, and if placed in a moderate temperature will keep for any reasonable time until required for use. When serving, fill the glass with cracked ice, put some sugar on top of it, add a slice or two of lemon and then pour on the extract thus made; the result will be a nectar fit for the gods.

=Essence of Tea=—Is produced from the leaves by distillation in the form of a dark-colored fluid, of which one or two spoonfuls added to boiling water will make an excellent cup of tea in a very short time. When prepared in a tea-pot, the water should be put in first and the requisite quantity of essence added afterwards; the flavor will be pronounced, coming out remarkably well in the liquor. This essence, when pure and properly made, will keep for any length of time in any climate on land or sea.

=New Beverages=—An effervescent wine may be produced from tea by forcing carbonic acid gas into the plain liquor as ordinarily prepared, and another beverage is produced by the introduction of an effervescing wine to the liquor only. While a pleasing drink is also prepared by treating the ordinary infusion with a little yeast and sugar, a tea-wine being produced from it differing in color and flavor according to the proportions in which the constituents are combined. Still another being evolved from this by the addition of a little alcohol to the compound. A drink called Rohrer or “tea spirit” is again produced by adding either whisky or brandy to the plain infusion when fresh made.

=Paraguayan Tea=—Is prepared in a filter or perforated bowl, known as a Maté, heated with warm water. A thin layer of sugar is first put in and a layer of leaves laid on top, another layer of sugar being added, the leaves being sandwiched between. The vessel is next filled with boiling water, which is allowed to percolate through the leaves and sugar. Before serving it is again sweetened with sugar until it becomes almost syrupy in substance, and frequently flavored with cinnamon, orange or lemon juice. Goat’s milk is often used instead of water, when thus prepared the infusion becomes ambrosial, approaching to that of “Chocolate Italienne” or nectar in flavor, becoming still more palatable when cold, but if allowed to stand too long exposed to the influence of the atmosphere it gets muddy and sours quickly.

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