Chapter IV: Part II

READ CAREFULLY. This test consists of two parts,--answers to the
questions and the making of models. Both should be sent to the
School for inspection and correction. All models should be made
about 4 by 6 inches so that they may be put into the envelope
provided without being folded. Two series of models are given;
either or both may be made.

1. What instruction have you ever had in sewing?

(b) Has the subject any educational value?

2. What are the common basting stitches, and for what are they used?

3. Can you make the running stitch properly? How is it done?

4. For what purpose may the cat stitch be used?

5. Hems and Seams: Describe the different kinds for thick and thin materials, including those for flannel and state when they should be used.

6. Describe three kinds of plackets.

7. How are gathers made, and how sewed into a band?

8. What can you say of fastenings?

9. With what sewing machine are you most familiar, and what are its peculiarities?

10. What stitches or methods described in this lesson are new to you?

Note: After completing the answers, sign your full name.

MODELS, FIRST SERIES

I. STITCHES. On a piece of cotton about 4 by 6 inches,
make with colored thread (1) a line of even basting stitches, (2)
uneven basting stitches, (3) tacking, (4) running, (5) back stitch,
(6) running and back, (7) half back.

With embroidery silk make a row each of (1) cat stitch, (2) single
feather, (3) double feather, (4) chain, (5) rows of French knots
with border of outline stitch.

Make your initial in one corner, using any stitch preferred.

Overcast one long edge of the model, double overcast the opposite
side, finish one end with plain loop or blanket stitch, and the
other end with some fancy loop stitch. Fasten all threads as
described in the text.

II. SEAMS AND HEMS. (a) Join two pieces of fine cotton
with a French seam at the long edge, about 2 by 5½ inches, with
warp running lengthwise. (b) Cut a piece of muslin on a true bias
and attach the bias edge to _a_ with a felled seam. (c) Trim the
model and hem all sides so that the finished model may measure 4 by
6 inches.

III. DARNING AND PATCHING. (a) In gingham or figures
cotton, make an underset patch of a square hole, matching the
goods. (b) Darn a three-cornered tear.

IV. FASTENINGS. The proper distance from the edge of
folded goods make (a) button hole, one end rounded and the other
finished with a bar tack. (b) Under it make a partly finished,
_barred_ buttonhole. (c) Below this make an eyelet hole, (d) below
the eyelet hole a loop, and sew on an eye.

On a second piece of folded goods opposite the first buttonhole,
(a) sew a four-hole button, corresponding in size to the
buttonhole. (b) Opposite the second buttonhole sew on a two-hole
button; (c) below, sew on two hooks corresponding in position to
the loop and eye. Make the two parts of the model so that the
corresponding fastenings will join.

V. APRON. Using fine muslin, make a doll's apron,
gathering into band at top. Above hem at the bottom, make two
clusters of tucks of three each.

MODELS. SECOND SERIES. FOR EXPERIENCED WORKERS

I. ROLLED HEM; HEM STITCHING. Make a doll's apron
of fine muslin, attach top to band with rolled, whipped gathers.
Make two clusters of tucks of three each at the bottom and hem
stitch the bottom hem.

II. SLEEVE PLACKET. Make a taped sleeve placket as shown
in the illustration.

III. MAKE A SLOT SEAM, using dress goods and finish with
an arrow head. (b) Make a large cloak buttonhole.

IV. MITRE EMBROIDERY and finish as shown in the
illustration. (b) Match and join the same.

V. EMBROIDERY: Make something small and useful--a doily,
stock, collar--illustrating some style of embroidery, or make a
model of the first series which will afford you the most new
experience.

TEXTILES AND CLOTHING