Chapter C: M. Graham, Jr., Content, Harlem lane, N. Y., for fifty-five quinces

gathered from one tree--Kenrick's American Orchardist.

Jacob Hendrer, Glenham, Dutchess co., N. Y., for fine specimens of grapes--Bridgeman's Gardeners' Assistant.

J. W. Hayes, Newark, N. J., for a lot of grapes and fine pears--Farmers' Companion.

John Couzens, Dobb's Ferry, Westchester co., N. Y., for superior specimen of grapes--United States Farmer.

Wm. R. Prince, Flushing, L. I., for two bunches of native grapes, and fine specimen of apples--Hovey's Magazine.

William Reid, 37th street, 4th avenue, for a fine collection of pears and apples--American Agriculturist.

Charles M. Graham, Jr., Content, Harlem lane, for a fine lot of Isabella grapes--Transactions of State Agricultural Society.

J. J. Morris, Batavia, N. Y., for fine specimen of pears--Farmers' Manual.

Nicholas Wyckoff, Jr., Bushwick, for fine specimens Isabella grapes--The Planters' Guide.

J. B. Mantel, 46th street, N. Y., for 53 varieties of pears and other fruit--two vols. of the Transactions of the State Agricultural Society.

Joseph L. Franklin, Flushing, L. I., for twelve extra large apples--Dana's Muck Manual.

H. & L. Hotchkiss, New Haven, Conn., for one pear weighing 33 oz.--1 vol. of the Cultivator.

Samuel Walker, Roxbury, Mass., for superior varieties of pears--silver medal.

Henry Steel, Jersey City, N. J., for a lot of extra-fine early grapes--Bridgeman's Gardeners' Assistant.

Miss Louisa Bennett, L. I., for a basket of native strawberries--Bridgeman's Florist's Guide.

MAKING CAPONS.

THE following article on making capons, is the best within our recollection. It is taken from the directions accompanying the sets of instruments for caponising, made by Mr. John Mendenhall, Philadelphia:--

FOWLS intended to be cut, must be kept at least twenty-four hours without food, otherwise the entrails will fill the cavity of the belly and render it almost impossible to complete the operation; besides, when they have been starved the proper length of time, they are less liable to bleed.

The chicken is taken at any age, from five days old until it begins to crow, or even after. Lay the fowl on its left side on the floor, draw the wings back, and keep it firm by resting the right foot on its legs, and the other foot or knee on its wings. (The table with the apparatus does away with the necessity of this stooping position.) Be careful that the head of the fowl is not held down, or even touched during the operation, as it would be sure to cause it to bleed. Pluck the feathers off from its right side near the hip joint, in a line between that and the shoulder joint; the space uncovered should be a little more than an inch square. Make an incision between the two last ribs, having first drawn the skin of the part backward, so that when left to itself it will cover the wound in the flesh. In some fowls the thigh is so far forward that it covers the two last ribs; in which case, care must be taken to draw the flesh of the thigh well back, so as not to cut through it, or else it would lame the fowl, and perhaps cause its death in a few days after the operation, by inflaming.

The ribs are to be kept open by the hooks--the opening must be enlarged each way by the knife, if necessary, until the testicles, which are attached to the back bone, are entirely exposed to view, together with the intestines in contact with them. The testicles are enclosed in a thin skin, connecting them with the back and sides--this must be laid hold of with the pliers, and then torn away with the pointed instrument; doing it first on the upper testicle, then on the lower. (The lower testicle will generally be found a little behind the other--that is, a little nearer the rump.) Next introduce the loop; (which is made of a horse-hair or a fibre of cocoa-nut;) it must be put round the testicle which is uppermost, in doing which the spoon is serviceable to raise up the testicle and push the loop under it, so that it shall be brought to act upon the part which holds the testicle to the back; then tear it off by pushing the tube toward the rump of the fowl, at the same time drawing the loop. Then scoop it and the blood out with the spoon, and perform the same operation on the other testicle. Take away the hooks, draw the skin over and close the wound; stick the feathers that you pulled off before on the wound, and let the bird go.

REMARKS.--If the operation be performed without sufficient skill, many of the fowls will prove not to be capons; these may be killed for use as soon as the head begins to grow large and get red, and they begin to chase the hens. The real capon will make itself known by the head remaining small, and the comb small and withered; the feathers of the neck or mane will also get longer, and the tail will be handsomer and longer: they should be kept to the age of fifteen or eighteen months, which will bring them in the spring and summer, when poultry is scarce and brings a high price. Take care, however, not to kill them near moulting time, as all poultry then is very inferior. The operation fails, principally, by bursting the testicle, so that the skin which encloses the soft matter, remains in the bird, and the testicle grows again.

Birds of five or six months are less liable to have the testicles burst in the operation than younger fowls, but they are also more apt to bleed to death than those of from two to four months old.

A skilful operator will always choose fowls of from two to three months;--he will prefer also, to take off the lower testicle first, as then the blood will not prevent him from proceeding with the other; whereas, when the upper one is taken off the first, if there should be any bleeding, he has to wait before he can take off the lower testicle.

The large vein that supplies the entrails with blood passes in the neighborhood of the testicles; there is danger that a young beginner may pierce it with the pointed instrument in taking off the skin of the lower testicle, in which case the chicken would die instantly, for all the blood in its body would issue out. There are one or two smaller veins which must be avoided, which is very easy, as they are not difficult to see. If properly managed, no blood ever appears until a testicle is taken off: so that should any appear before that, the operator will know that he has done something wrong.

If a chicken die, it is during the operation by bleeding; (of course it is as proper for use as if bled to death by having its throat cut;) they very seldom die after, unless they have received some internal injury, or the flesh of the thigh has been cut through, from not being drawn back from off the last two ribs, where the incision is made; all of which are apt to be the case with young practitioners.

If the testicles be found to be large, the bamboo tube should be used, and it should have a strong cocoa-nut string in it,--for small ones the silver tube with a horse-hair in it, is best.

When a chicken has been cut, it is necessary before letting it run, to put a permanent mark upon it; otherwise it would be impossible to distinguish it from others not cut. I have been accustomed to cut off the outside or the inside toe of the left foot,--by this means I can distinguish them at a distance. Another mode is to cut off the comb, then shave off the spurs close to the leg, and stick them upon the bleeding head, where they will grow and become ornamental in the shape of a pair of horns. This last mode is perhaps the best, but it is not so simple and ready as the first. Which ever mode is adopted, the fowl should be marked before performing the operation, because the loss of blood occasioned by cutting off the comb or a toe, makes the fowl less likely to bleed internally during the operation.

It is very common, soon after the operation, for the chicken to get wind in the side, when the wound is healing, between the flesh and the skin; it must be relieved by making a small incision in the skin, which will let the wind escape.

Those fowls make the finest capons which are hatched early in the spring; they can be cut before the hot weather comes, which is a great advantage.

Never attempt to cut a full-grown cock; it is a useless and cruel piece of curiosity. I have never known one to live.

Be not discouraged with the first difficulties; with practice they will disappear; every season you will find yourself more expert, until the cutting of a dozen fowls before breakfast will be a small matter.

It may be well to give a warning against becoming dissatisfied with the tools. A raw hand, when he meets with difficulties, is apt to think the tools are in fault, and sets about to improve them and invent others; but it is only himself that lacks skill, which practice alone can give. I have spent money, besides wasting my time in this foolish notion, but have always found that the old, original tools, which came from China, and where this mode of operating was invented, are the best.

Take care that the tools are not abused by ignorant persons attempting to use them; they will last a person's life-time if properly used; but if put out of order, none but a surgical instrument maker can repair them properly.

The object in giving publicity to this, is to have the markets of Philadelphia well supplied with capons: they have ever been esteemed one of the greatest delicacies, preserving the flavor and tenderness of the chicken, with the juicy maturity of age. In the Paris and London markets, double the price of common poultry is obtained for capons.

Considering the abundance and excellence of poultry in the United States, it seems surprising that the art of making capons should be almost entirely unknown--it is hoped that this deficiency will now be supplied.

GRAFTING AND BUDDING.

For what follows on grafting and budding, we are indebted to that excellent family paper, the New World. The article was prepared for it by J. S. Skinner, Esq., of the Post Office Department, Washington, from an English work, which, he adds, "is not published or much known in this country."

GRAFTING.--The process of grafting consists in taking off a shoot from one tree, and inserting it into another, in such a manner as that both may unite closely, and become one tree; the shoot or cutting thus employed is called a _scion_, and the tree on which it is inserted or grafted, a stock. The process of budding has precisely the same object in view as that of grafting, differing from the latter process only in the insertion of a bud, instead of a shoot or cutting, into the bark of another tree. To execute either process with adroitness and success, considerable practice is required. To excel in either, instructions should be received from some competent person, who is both willing and able to impart the necessary information. More knowledge can be acquired in a short time in this manner than can possibly be attained by the most attentive perusal of any treatise expressly written upon the subject. Impressed with the difficulty of the task, many writers have indeed asserted, that description alone must ever fail to convey an adequate knowledge of the process; but the intelligent author of the English Gardener has, with his usual ability, treated the subject in so clear and comprehensive a manner that we are induced to give the details of the process in the author's own language.

Before entering upon the subject of grafting and budding, there is one thing which is equally applicable to both processes, and that is, that the _stock_ ought to stand the whole summer upon the spot where it is grafted, before that operation is performed upon it. If stocks be planted out in the fall, the sap does not rise vigorously enough in the spring to afford a fair chance to the growing of the graft; another remark of equal importance is, that fruit-trees stand only _one summer_ on the spot whence they are to be removed to their final destination; because, if they stand longer than this, they will have large and long roots, great amputation must take place, and the trees suffer exceedingly.

_The Time of Grafting_ is generally from the beginning of February to the end of March,[1] beginning with the earliest sorts of trees, as plums, cherries, and pears; and ending with the latest, as apples. But seasons are different, and in a backward season, the season for grafting will be backward; and in such case, the fulness and bursting appearance of the buds of the stocks, and the mildness of the weather must be our guides. However, it is certain that the mild weather, with occasional showers, is the best time for grafting.

[1] In this climate, April and May are the best months.--ED. AM. AG.

_The Mode of Preparing the Scion_ comes next. Take from the tree from which you mean to propagate, as many branches of last year's wood as will cut into the quantity of scions that you want; but in choosing what branches to take, let the vigor of the tree guide you, in some measure. If it be a healthy, flourishing, and young tree, take your branches from the outside shoots, for the upright ones at the top, or those near the middle, are more likely to produce wood than fruit. Yet do not take branches from the very lowest part of the tree, if you can avoid it, as these are sure to be more puling in their nature. In case the tree be old or weakly, then choose the most vigorous of its last year's shoots, no matter where they grow. Keep these branches uncut until you arrive at the season for grafting, keeping them, in the meanwhile, buried in dry mould; and when that season arrives, take them up and cut them into the proper lengths for grafting. The middle part of each branch will generally be found to be the best; but your branches may be scarce and few in number, and then make use of every part. Each scion should have from three to six eyes on it, but six will, in all cases, be quite enough, as there is no use in an extraordinary length of scion; but, on the contrary, it may be productive of much mischief, by overloading the head with young shoots and leaves as summer advances, and thereby making it more subject to accident from high winds or heavy rains.

_The Operation of Grafting_ is performed many ways, though none of them differs from any of the others in the _main principle_, which is that of bringing the under or inner bark of the scion to bear upon the same bark of the stock. The sap of the stock flows upward toward the scion, and it will flow on into the scion, provided it find no interruption. Here, therefore, is the nicety--to fit those two barks so closely, the one upon the other, that the sap shall proceed onward into the scion, just as it would have done into the amputated branch, causing the scion to supplant the branch. I shall only mention and illustrate two modes of grafting, viz., _tongue-grafting_ and _cleft-grafting_. These two it is necessary for me to speak of separately, and thoroughly to describe, for they are not both of them applicable in all cases; the former being used in grafting on small-sized stocks and small branches of trees, and the latter on large stocks and large branches.

_Tongue-Grafting._--Suppose you have your stock of the proper age for grafting, you cut it off at three or four inches from the ground, and with a very _sharp, straight, and narrow-bladed grafting-knife_, cut a thin strip of bark and wood upward, from about two inches below your already shortened stock. Make this cut at one pull of the knife, inserting the edge rather horizontally, and when it has gone through the bark and into the wood a little short of the middle, pull straight upward, (2, _a, b_;) then at rather less than half way down this cut, and with the blade of your knife across the cut, and downward, cut a very _thin tongue_ of not more than three eighths of an inch long, (2, _c_.) Proceed nearly in the same way with the bottom part of the scion; cut first a narrow strip of wood and bark out, but not putting the knife in horizontally, as you have done with regard to the stock, (at 2, _a_,) nor bringing it out straight to the end, to make a shoulder or angle, as you have done at (2, _a b_;) but make a sloping cut (1, _a b_,) of about the same length as the cut in the stock, or rather a little less if anything; then make a tongue (1, _c_) to correspond with that of the stock, but recollect that this must be cut _upward_ instead of _downward_; then place the scion upon the stock, inserting the tongue of the scion into the tongue of the stock. Bring the four edges of bark, that is, the two edges of the cut in the top of the stock, and the two corresponding edges of the cut in the bottom of the scion, to meet precisely; or, if the scion be, in diameter, a smaller piece of wood than the stock, so that its two edges of bark can not both meet those of the stock, then let only one meet, but be sure that one meets precisely. But observe, that this can never be unless the first cut in the stock and that in the scion (2, _a b_,) and (1, _a b_,) be as even as a die, and performed with a knife scarcely less sharp than a razor. Take a common pruning-knife, and attempt to make a cut of this kind, and you will find when you come to fit the scion on, that, squeeze them together as you may, you will, in most cases, see light between the parts of the stock and the scion that you are trying to join, so effectually, as that the sap shall flow out of the one into the other, unconscious of any division at all! But I will not suppose anybody so ungain (as it is called in Hampshire) as to go about so nice an operation as this without being prepared with the proper instruments for performing it; and therefore, I now suppose the scion put on properly, and presenting the appearance as in (3, _a_.) But this is not all; the operation is not yet complete. The two parts thus joined must be bound closely to one another with matting, or bass, as the gardeners call it, (4.) A single piece tied on to the stock, will, if well done, almost insure the junction; but lest parching winds should come and rip up all vegetation, it is usual to put on besides the bandage of matting, a ball of well-beaten clay sprinkled over with a little wood-ashes or the fine siftings of cinders, to cover completely the parts grafted, that is, from an inch below them to an inch or so above them, (5;) and, even to prevent this ball of clay from being washed off by heavy rains, it is well to tie around it a covering of coarse canvass, or else to earth up the whole plant as you do beans or peas, drawing a little mound around it so as to reach nearly the top of the clay. Mr. Harrison prepares his grafting clay in the following manner: Take two parts of clay and one of horse-dung, free from straw, mix them together, and beat the mass until the whole is thoroughly incorporated, then temper it with a little water till it is reduced to the consistence of stiff paste. This composition _never cracks_ on drying!

_Future Treatment._--Something now remains to be said on the future treatment of the grafted plant. In a month's time at least, you will see whether the scion has taken; it will then be either bursting forth into leaf or be irrecoverably dead. In this latter case, take off immediately the canvass, clay, bandage, and dead scion, and let the stock push forth what shoots it pleases, and recover itself. In the former case, however, you must, as soon as the scion is putting forth shoots, cut off, or rub off, all shoots proceeding from the stock between the ground and the clay, as these, if suffered to push on, would divert the sap away from the scion, and probably starve it; then carefully stake the plant, that is, put a small stick into the ground at within three inches, or thereabouts, of the root, and long enough to reach a few inches above the scion, which you will tie to it slightly with a piece of wetted matting. This is really necessary, for when the shoots proceeding from the scion become half a foot long, they, with the aid of their leaves, become so heavy as, when blown to and fro by the wind, to break off immediately above the clay, or become loosened down at the part joined to the stock. The staking being done, you need do nothing more till near the end of June, when you should take off the whole mass of canvass, clay, and bandage, but be careful in taking off the clay not to break off the plant at the junction. It should be done by a careful hand, and after a day or two of rainy weather, as then the clay is moist and comes off without so much danger to the plant as when it is not. On taking off the clay, there is found a little sharp angle, left at the top of the stock; this should now be cut smooth off. The bark of the stock and that of the scion will heal over this, and the union is then complete. Lastly, it is frequently found that mould, and sometimes small vermin, have collected around the heretofore covered parts of the plant, according as the clay has been cracked by the sun. Rub off all mould with your fingers, (no instrument does it so well,) and kill all vermin in the same way; and it is not amiss to finish this work by washing the joined parts with a little soap and water, using a small paint-brush for the operation. All these things done, you have only to guard against high winds, which, if the plant be not staked, as is above described, will very likely be broken off by them; and, in this work of destruction, you will have the mortification of seeing the finest of your plants go first.

_Cleft-Grafting._--This is a species of grafting adopted in cases where the stock is large, or where it consists of a branch or branches of a tree headed down. In either of these cases, saw off horizontally, the part you wish to graft, and smooth the wound over with a carpenter's plane, or a sharp, long-blade knife, (1.)

Prepare your scion in this manner: At about, an inch and a half from the bottom, cut it in the form of the blade of a razor; that is, make it sharp on one side, and let it be blunt at the back, where you will also take care to leave the bark whole, (2, _a_.) Having thus prepared the scion, make a split (1) in the crown of the saw-cut downward for about two inches, taking care that the two sides of this be perfectly even. Hold it then open, by means of a chisel or a wedge, (or when the stock is but a small one, your knife,) and insert the scion, the sharp edge going inward, and the bark side or razor-back remaining outward, so that, on taking out the wedge or chisel, the cleft closes firmly on the scion, (3,) the two edges of bark formed by the cleft, squeezing exactly upon the two edges of bark formed by the blunt razor-back. To make the two barks meet precisely is the only nicety in this operation; but this is so essential, that the slightest deviation will defeat the purpose. In this sort of grafting, the stock on which you graft is generally strong enough to hold the scion close enough within its cleft, without the aid of binding, and then it is better not to bind; but as it is also necessary to prevent air circulating within the wounded parts both of the stock and the scion, use grafting-clay to cover them over so as to effectually exclude the air; and cover the clay with a piece of coarse canvass, wetting it first, and then binding it on securely. In this way, the stock being strong, you may insert several scions on the same head, by making several different clefts, and putting one scion in each; but this can only be to insure your having two to succeed, for if all the scions that you put on one head take, you must choose the two most eligible, and sacrifice the rest, as more than two leading limbs from such head ought not to be encouraged. The season for performing this sort of grafting, and the mode of preparing the scion, and the future treatment of the tree, are precisely the same as in _tongue-grafting_.

_Crown, or Bark-Grafting_ is a very ready method of grafting upon large, uneven, old stocks and branches. It is practised somewhat later than the methods above described, that is, from the end of March to the third week in April, because, in that period, the separation of the bark from the wood is more easily affected; a circumstance of primary importance in this case. The tree is to be headed down, the cut being made horizontally, and the section bored quite even and smooth; then make a slit in the bark two inches in length, next with the handle of a budding-knife, carefully open the bark for about a quarter of an inch; then cut the scion about two inches in a sloping direction, in the form of a tongue, leaving the bark entire on the outside. The scion thus prepared, is pressed downward between the bark and the wood as far as the incision in the stock extends; the bark of the stock readily yields to the pressure employed, and the scion is supported in its situation by a few coils of bass-matting, the whole being surrounded by clay.

_Dove-Tail Grafting._--This is a very neat and successful mode of grafting, originating with Mr. Malone, who gives the following directions for its performance. The scion is to be selected so as to have two or three buds above where the knife is to be inserted to prepare it for the operation; a slip is cut off the end of the scion, sloping it to the bottom as long as it may be decided to insert it into the stock. On each side of the cut, as far as it extends, a part of the bark is to be taken off, leaving the under part broader than the upper, on which upper or back part always contrive to leave a bud. The stock or branch to be worked is thus prepared: Being first cut off smooth and straight, two parallel slits, distant from each other nearly the width of the scion and the length of its cut part, are then made in the bark of the branch, observing particularly to slope the knife, so that the under edge of the cut next the wood may be wider than the outer edge. The piece of bark between the slits must then be taken out, separating at the bottom by a horizontal cut. The scion will then slide into the dove-tail groove thus formed, and, if the work is well performed, will fit neatly and tightly. A small quantity of the grafting-clay must then be carefully applied, securing it on with list, or any other convenient bandage, fastening it at the end with two small nails. The top of the stock should be entirely covered with clay, sloping it well up to the grafts, and should be examined often to see if any cracks or openings appear, which should be immediately filled up with some very soft clay. The proper time for performing the operation is from the beginning of April till the middle of May, or earlier if the sap is in motion. (Gardener's Magazine, Vol. VII.)

BUDDING.--Budding is performed for precisely the same purpose as grafting, and, like grafting, it is performed in many different ways; and as long experience has ascertained the best method, namely, that of T budding, (1,) so called from the form of the two cuts that are made in the bark of the stock to receive the bud, or _shield-budding_, as it is sometimes called from the form of the piece of bark (2) on which the bud is seated, assuming the shape of a shield when it is prepared to be inserted within the T cut in the stock.

The only solid difference between budding and grafting is this, that whereas in grafting you insert on the stock a _branch_ already produced, in budding, you insert only the _bud_. I shall proceed, in treating of this matter, in the same way that I did in the preceding article, namely, _as to the season proper for budding, the choosing and preparing of the bud, the operation of budding, and the future treatment of the plant budded_.

_The Season for Budding_ is generally from the latter end of July to the latter end of August, the criterions being a plump appearance of the buds formed on the spring shoot of the same year, seated in the angle of a leaf, and a readiness in the bark of the stock to separate from the wood.

_In Choosing and Preparing the Bud_, fix on one seated at about the middle of a healthy shoot of the mid-summer growth--these are, generally speaking, the most inclined to fruitfulness. Choose a cloudy day, if you have a choice of days at this season, and if not, perform your work early in the morning, or in the evening. The time being proper, you sever the branch on which you find the buds to your liking. Take this with you to the stock that you are going to bud, holding the branch in your left hand, the largest end downward; make a sloping cut from about an inch and a half below the bud to about an inch above it, suffering your knife to go through the bark, and about half way into the wood, cutting out wood and all. This keeping of the wood prevents the bud and its bark from drying while you are preparing the incision in the stock, and if you wish to carry buds of scarce sorts to any distance, you may do so safely by putting their ends in water, or in damp moss, but it is always safer, as well in grafting as in budding, to perform the operation with as much expedition as possible, but particularly it is so in budding.

_Operation of Budding._--Cut off the leaf under which the bud is situated, but leave its foot-stalk, (2, _a_,) and by this hold it between your lips, while with your budding-knife you cut two straight lines in the stock at the place where you wish to insert the bud, and this should be where the bark is smooth, free from any bruises or knots, and on the side rather from the mid-day suns. Of these lines let the first be horizontal, (1,) and let the next be longitudinal, beginning at the middle of the first cut and coming downward. Let them, in short, describe the two principal bars of the Roman letter T. You have now to take out from the bark on which the bud is, the piece of wood on which the bark is, and which has served you, up to this time, to preserve the bud and bark from drying and shrinking. But this is a nice matter. In doing it you must be careful not to endanger the root of the bud, as it is called, because in that is its existence. The bark, (if the season be proper for budding,) will easily detach itself from this piece of wood, but still it requires a very careful handling to get it out without endangering the root of the bud. Hold the bud on your fore-finger, and keep your thumb on the wood opposite; then with the fore-finger and thumb of the other hand, bend backward and forward the lower end of the shield, and thus coax the wood to disengage itself from the bark; and when you find it decidedly doing so, remove your thumb from it, and the whole piece of wood will come out, leaving you nothing but a piece of bark of about two and a half inches long, with a bud and foot-stalk of a leaf on it. If the root of the bud be carried away with the piece of wood, you will perceive a small cavity where it ought to be. In this case, throw away the bud and try another.

Having succeeded in the second attempt, now open the two sides of the longitudinal bar of the T with the ivory haft of your budding-knife, but in doing this, raise the bark clearly down to the wood, for the inside of the piece of bark belonging to the bud must be placed directly against this. Having opened these sides wide enough to receive the longest end of the bark, insert it nicely, taking especial care that its inner side be flatly against the wood of the stock. Then cut the upper end of the bark off, so that its edge shall meet precisely the edge of the horizontal bar of the T (3, _a_.). With your finger and thumb bring the two sides of the longitudinal bar over the bark of the bud, or rather the shield, and with a piece of well-soaked matting, begin an inch below this bar and bind firmly all the way up to an inch above the horizontal bar, taking good care to leave the bud peeping out. Bind in such a way as to exclude the air, for that is the intent of binding in this case. Tie your piece of matting on first, and wind it round and round the stock as you would a riband, taking care not to twist the matting; wind it slowly, and every time you have gone completely round, give a gentle pull to make it firm.

_Future Treatment._--In a fortnight's time from the operation, you will discover whether the bud has taken, by its roundness and healthy look; and, in a fortnight after that, loosen the bandage to allow the plant to swell, and in about five weeks from the time of budding, take away the bandage altogether. In this state, the plant passes the winter, and just as the sap begins to be in motion in the following spring, you head down the stock at about an inch above the bud, beginning behind it, and making a sloping cut upward to end above its point. Some gardeners leave a piece of the stock about six inches long for the first year, in order to tie the first summer's shoot to it to prevent its being broken off by the wind. This may be well when the plant is exposed to high winds, but even then, if you see danger, you may tie a short stick on the top part of the stock, and to this tie the young shoot, and then the sap all goes into the shoot from the bud, instead of being divided between it and six inches of stock left in the other way. There are some advantages which budding has over grafting, and these I think it right to mention. In the first place, universal experience has proved that certain trees succeed much better when budded, than the same trees do when grafted, such are the peach, nectarine, apricot, plum, and cherry; indeed, the rule is, that all stone-fruits do better budded than grafted, that they are, when budded, less given to gum, a disease peculiar to stone-fruits, and often very pernicious to them. You may also, by budding, put two more branches upon a stock that would be too weak to take so many grafts, and you may bud in July when grafting has failed in March and April. The disadvantage of budding is that the trees are rendered one year later in coming into bearing than when you graft.

Mr. Knight has recommended a mode of budding, (Hort. Trans., vol. I.). He thus describes the process: In the month of June, as the luxuriant shoots of my peach-trees were grown sufficiently firm to permit the operation, I inserted buds of other varieties into them, employing two distinct ligatures to bind the buds in their places. One ligature was first placed above the bud inserted, and upon the transverse section through the bark; the other which had no further office than that of securing the bud, was applied in the usual way. As soon as the buds had attached themselves, the ligatures last applied were taken off, but the others were suffered to remain. The passage of the sap upward, was in consequence much obstructed, and the inserted bud began to vegetate strongly in July, and when these had afforded shoots about four inches long, the remaining ligatures were taken off to admit the excess of sap to pass on, and the young shoots were nailed to the wall, being there properly exposed to light, their wood ripened well, and afforded blossoms in the succeeding spring.

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We should be pleased if any of our readers could give us further information about the shrub described below.

_From the Yankee Blade._

HIGH CRANBERRY.

A gentleman of this place having occasion some twenty years ago, to make an excursion into the northern part of the state, near Lake Umbagog, where the Magalloway empties into the Androscoggin, passed through a large piece of low land, comprising many acres, which was covered with the high cranberry as far as the eye could see, exhibiting the most beautiful and splendid appearance, perhaps, ever displayed from any of the spontaneous productions of the forests of New England. He says that some shrubs which had acquired the magnitude of trees of several inches diameter, were literally bent to the ground, under the weight of their luxuriant fruit; and such was their abundance, that a single individual might have gathered more than thirty bushels in a day.

The high cranberry in dense forests, sometimes acquires the respectable altitude of 15 or 20 feet; but in more open places, its height is generally from 6 to 8 or 10 feet. Its stem and leaf very much resemble those of the snow-ball; and the flower, while it lasts, is but little inferior in elegance and beauty to the flower of that highly ornamented and much esteemed shrub. The fruit is smaller than that of the running cranberry, of a bright red color when ripe, and grows in large, flat clusters on the ends of the branches. Its taste is very acid, and rather austere. It contains a large, hard, flat seed, which is an objection to the use of it without sifting or straining; but being sifted or strained after stewing, it is excellent for sauce, pies, and tarts. Prepared with sugar, in the usual way, it makes a most delicious jelly.

ORIGINAL CORRESPONDENCE.

_For the American Agriculturist._

FINE WOOL SHEEP.

_Buskirk's Bridge, October, 1843._