Chapter IX: Part 9

The best time to prune what are termed "Garden roses" is immediately after flowering, which is generally about the middle of June. Cut out all old exhausted wood, and where it is too thick and crowded, shortening those shoots which have flowered to a good fresh strong eye, or bud, accompanied with a healthy leaf, but leaving untouched such shoots as are still in a growing state, except where they are becoming irregular. Such should be cut to the desired shape. There is not a better period of the year for puting these bushes in handsome order, which ought to be studied. All wood that grows after this pruning will ripen perfectly and produce fine flowers next year.

Our reasons for doing so at this period are these: The points of the shoots of the more delicate sorts of roses are very apt to die when pruned in winter or spring; hence the consequences of this evil are avoided. The stronger the wood of roses is made to grow, the flowers will be the larger and more profuse, and this effect is but produced by cutting out the old and superfluous wood; at least it prevents any loss of vegetative power, which ought always to be considered.

OF BUDDING OR INOCULATION OF ROSES.

According to what we have previously hinted in regard to having roses as standards, where such are desired, the month of July is a proper time for the operation of budding. The kinds to be taken for stocks should be of a strong free growth. Such as _Ornamental parade_; _Dutch tree_; _R. vilòsa_; _R. canína_; and frequently the French _Eglantine_, are taken. Be provided with a proper budding-knife, which has a sharp thin blade adapted to prepare the bud, with a tapering ivory haft made thin at the end for raising the bark of the stock. For tieings use bass strings from Russia mats, which should be soaked in water to make them more pliable. The height of the stock or stem at which the bud is to be inserted, is to be determined by the intended destination of the tree, (as it may be properly called.) Choose a smooth part of the stem, from one to three years old. Having marked the place, prune away all the lateral shoots about and underneath it. With the knife directed horizontally, make an incision about half an inch long in the bark of the stock, cutting into the wood, but not deeper; then applying the point of the knife to the middle of this line, make a perpendicular incision under the first, extending from it between one and two inches. Having a healthy shoot of the growth of this year provided of the kind that is desired, begin at the lower end of this shoot, cut away all the leaves, leaving the footstalk of each. Being fixed on a promising bud, insert the knife about half an inch above the eye, slanting it downwards, and about half through the shoot. Draw it out about an inch below the eye, so as to bring away the bud unimpaired with the bark, and part of the wood adhering to it; the wood now must be carefully detached from the bark. To do this insert the point of the knife between the bark and wood at one end, and holding the bark tenderly, strip off the woody part, which will readily part from the bark if the shoot from which the piece is taken has been properly imbued with sap.[I] Look at the inner rind of the separated bark, to see if that be entire; if there be a hole in it, the eye of the bud has been pulled away with the wood, rendering the bud useless, which throw away; if there be no hole, return to the stock, and with the haft of the knife gently raise the bark on each side of the perpendicular incision, opening the lips wide enough to admit the prepared slip with the eye. If the slip is longer than the upright incision in the stock, reduce the largest end. Stock and bud being ready, keep the latter in its natural position, introduce it between the bark and wood of the stock, pushing it gently downwards until it reaches the bottom of the perpendicular incision. Let the eye of the bud project through the centre of the lips; lay the slip with the bud as smooth as possible, and press down the raised bark of the stock. The bud being deposited, bind that part of the stock moderately tight with bass, beginning a little below the incision, proceeding upward so as to keep the eye uncovered, finishing above the incision. In a month after the operation, examine whether the bud has united with the stock. If it has succeeded, the bud will be full and fresh; if not, it will be brown and contracted. When it has taken, untie the bandage, that the bud may swell, and in a few days afterwards cut the head of the stock off about six inches above the inoculation, and prevent all shoots from growing by pinching them off. This will forward the bud, which will push and ripen wood this season; but it must be carefully tied as it grows to the remaining head of the stock. Some do not head down the stock until the following spring, thereby not encouraging the bud to grow, which if winter sets in early is the safest method.

[I] We once budded three eyes of the white moss rose, after they had by mistake been carried in the pocket of a coat three days. The shoot was soaked six hours in water, and two of the buds grew. From this we infer that shoots, if properly wrapped up, may be carried very great distances, and grow successfully.

OF WATERING.

If the season is dry, look over the late planted shrubs, and give them frequent copious waterings; and a few of the finest annuals that are wanted to flower perfectly should be attended to. _Dahlias_ suffer very much in dry seasons, therefore it is advisable to water the most beautiful (or all) of them two or three times per week, and be careful to tie up their shoots to any support that is given to them, in case of high winds breaking or otherwise destroying the flower stems.

=Rooms.=

_JUNE AND JULY._

The only attention requisite to _these_ plants, is in giving water, keeping them from being much exposed to either sun or high winds, and preventing the attack of insects. Water must be regularly given every evening, when there has not been rain during the day. Where they are in a growing state, they are not liable at this season of the year to suffer from too much water, except in a few instances, such as the Lemon-scented Geranium, and those kinds that are tuberose rooted, as _Ardèns_, _Bicòlor_, _Tristúm_, &c. which should have moderate supplies.

All the plants ought to be turned round every few weeks to prevent them from growing to one side, by the one being more dark than the other, and keep those of a straggling growth tied neatly to rods. Wherever insects of any description appear, wash them off directly. Give regular syringings or sprinklings from the rose of a watering pot. Be particularly attentive in this respect to the _Caméllias_, which will keep the foliage in a healthy state, and prevent the effects of mildew.

If the foliage of _Lílium longiflòrum_, or _japónicum_, has died down, do not water them while dormant, as they are easily injured by such treatment.

=Hot-House.=

_AUGUST._

The plants of the Hot-house that were repotted in May and June, according to the directions therein given, will at present be in an excellent state of health, provided they have got at all times the requisite supplies of watering. And as we already have been very explicit on that subject, more remarks now would be merely repetition.

REPOTTING.

If any of the repottings were neglected, during May or June, let it be done about the first of this month. Let young plants that are growing freely, where the roots have filled the pots, and the plants required to grow, have pots one size larger. In turning out the ball of earth, keep it entire, not disturbing any of the roots.

OF PAINTING, REPAIRING, AND CLEANSING THE HOUSE.

The necessary repairs of the Hot-house are too often put off to the last day or week; and then with hurry are superficially attended to. Previous to the first of September, have all the wood-work painted; which ought to have one coat every year, and the glass all repaired. Have the flues and furnace examined, and all rents plastered over, or any deficiency made good. Give the flue a thick coat of lime white-wash, and properly white-wash the whole interior stages and shelves to destroy any larvæ of insects; or, what is preferable for the latter, use oil paint. If there is a tan bed, have that renewed; take out what is most decayed, and add new tan. Wash out the floor perfectly clean, so that all may be in readiness for the plants next month.

=GREEN-HOUSE.=

_AUGUST._

Any of the _Myrtles_, _Oranges_, _Lemons_, _Oleanders_, &c. that were headed down in April or May, will be pushing many young shoots. The plant must be carefully examined, to observe which of the shoots ought to be left to form the tree. Having determined on this, cut out all the others close to the stem with a small sharp knife; and if the remaining shoots are above one foot long, pinch off the tops to make them branch out.

The trees that were entirely headed down, should not have above six shoots left, which will, by being topped, make a sufficient quantity to form the bush or tree.

GERANIUMS.

These plants, about the first of the month, require a complete dressing. In the first place collect them all together, and with a sharp knife cut off the wood of this year to within a few eyes of the wood of last year. _Citriodórum_ and its varieties do not need pruning. The plants grown from cuttings during the season, that have flowered, cut them to about four inches from the pot. This being done, have the earth all prepared with potshreds or fine gravel for draining the delicate kinds. And in a shaded situation turn the plants progressively out of the pots they are in, reducing the balls of earth so that the same pots may contain them again, and allow from half an inch to two inches, according to the size of the pot, of fresh soil around the ball, which press down by a thin piece of wood cut for the purpose. Finish by leveling all neatly with the hand. Give very gentle waterings from a pot with a rose mouth, for a few weeks, until they have begun to grow, protecting them entirely from the sun, till that period, then take the opportunity of a cloudy day to expose them. After this repotting, the following kinds are liable to suffer from too much water: _Pavonínum_, _Davey[)a]num_, _fúlgens_, _ardens_, _citriodórum_, _rubéscens_, _florabùndum_, _ardèscens_; with those of a similar habit, and these species do not require so much encouragement at the root as the strong growing sorts. The tuberous rooted and deciduous species must be very moderately supplied. Be careful when watering that the new soil does not become saturated with water, as, though allowed to dry again, it will not be so pure. When they shoot afresh, turn them regularly every two weeks, to prevent them growing to one side.

ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.

As it is frequently very inconvenient to shift these trees into larger tubs in the months of March and April, this month is a period that is suitable both from the growth of the trees, and their being in the open air. It would be improper to state the day or the week, that depending entirely on the season. The criterion is easily observed, which is when the first growth is over, these trees making another growth in autumn. When they are large, they require great exertion, and are frequently attended with inconvenience to get them shifted. Where there is a quantity of them, the best plan that we have tried or seen adopted is as follows: Have a strong double and a single block trimmed with a sufficiency of rope; make it fast to the limb of a large tree, or any thing that projects, and will bear the weight, and as high as will admit of the plant being raised a few feet under it. Take a soft bandage and put around the stem, to prevent the bark from being bruised; make a rope fast to it, in which hook the single block. Raise the plant the height of the tub, put a spar across the tub, and strike on the spar with a mallet, which will separate the tub from the ball. Then with a strong pointed stick probe a little of the earth from amongst the roots, observing to cut away any that are affected by dry-rot, damp, or mildew, with any very matted roots. Having all dressed, place a few potshreds over the hole or holes in the bottom of the tub; measure exactly the depth of the ball that remains around the plant, and fill up with earth, pressing it a little with the hand, until it will hold the ball one inch under the edge of the tub. If there is from four to six inches of earth under it, it is quite enough. Fill all around the ball, and press it down with a stick, finishing neatly off with the hand. Observe that the stem of the tree is exactly in the centre. This being done, carry the tree to where it is intended to stand, and give it water with a rose on the pot. The earth will subside about two inches, thus leaving three inches, which will at any time hold enough of water for the tree. Trees thus treated will not require to be shifted again within four or five years, having in the interim got a few rich top-dressings.

Frequently in attempting to take out of the tubs those that are in a sickly state, all the soil falls from their roots, having no fibres attached. When there are any such, after replanting, put them in the Green-house, and shut it almost close up, there give shade to the tree, and frequent sprinklings of water, until it begins to grow, when admit more air gradually until it becomes hardened. These trees should be put in very small tubs, and a little sand added to the soil. Give very moderate supplies of water, merely keeping the soil moist. Tubs generally give way at the bottom when they begin to decay, and in the usual method of coopering after this failure they are useless, the ledging being rotten, and will not admit of another bottom. The staves should be made without any groove, and have four brackets nailed on the inside, having the bottom in a piece by itself that it can be placed on these brackets, and there is no necessity of it being water tight. Then when it fails, it can be replaced again at a trifling expense. A tub made this way will last out three or four bottoms, and is in every respect the cheapest, and should be more wide than deep. _Large Myrtles_ and _Oleanders_ may be treated in the same manner as directed for the above.

OF PRUNING ORANGES, LEMONS, &c.

These trees will grow very irregularly, especially the _Lemon_, if not frequently dressed or pruned. Any time this month look over them all minutely, and cut away any of the small naked wood where it is too crowded, and cut all young strong straggling shoots to the bounds of the tree, giving it a round regular head. It is sometimes necessary to cut out a small limb, but large amputations should be avoided. Cover all wounds with turpentine or bees-wax, to prevent the bad effects of the air.

OF REPOTTING PLANTS.

Any of the plants enumerated in March under this head, may be now done according to directions therein given, and which apply to all sizes. This is the proper period for repotting the following:--

_Cálla_, a genus of four species. None of them in our collections, and in fact are not worth cultivation, except _C. æthiòpica_, Ethiopian Lily, which is admired for the purity and singularity of its large white flowers, or rather spatha, which is cucullate, leaves sagittate. It is now called _Richárdia æthiópica_. The roots which are tubers should be entirely divested of the soil they have been grown in, breaking off any small offsets, and potting them wholly in fresh earth. When growing they cannot get too much water. The plant will grow in a pond of water, and withstand our severest winters, provided the roots are kept at the bottom of the water.

_Cyclamen._ There are eight species and six varieties of this genus, which consists of humble plants with very beautiful flowers. The bulbs are round, flattened, and solid, and are peculiarly adapted for pots and the decorating of rooms. _C. côum_, leaves almost round; flowers light red; in bloom from January to April. _C. pérsicum_, with its four varieties, flower from February to April; colour white, and some white and purple. _C. hederæfòlium_, Ivy-leaved; colour lilac; there is a white variety; flowers from July to September. _C. Europæum_, colour lilac, in bloom from August to October. _C. neapolitànum_, flowers red, in bloom from July to September. These are all desirable plants. When the foliage begins to decay, withhold the accustomed supplies of water, keeping them in a half dry state; and when growing they must not be over watered, as they are apt to rot from moisture. Keep them during the summer months in the shade. The best time for potting either of the sorts is when the crown of the bulb begins to protrude. If the pots are becoming large, every alternate year they may be cleared from the old soil, and put in smaller pots with the crown barely covered. When the flowers fade, the pedicles twist up like a screw, inclosing the germen in the centre, lying close to the ground until the seeds ripen, from which plants can be grown, and will flower the third year.

_Lachenàlia_, a genus of about forty species of bulbs, all natives of the Cape of Good Hope, and grow remarkably well in our collections. The most common is _L. trícolor_. _L. quadrícolor_, and its varieties, are all fine; the colours yellow, scarlet, orange, and green, very pure and distinct; _L. rùbida_. _L. punctàta_, _L. orchoídes_, and _L. nervòsa_, are all fine species. The flowers are on a stem from a half to one foot high, and much in the character of a hyacinth. The end of the month is about the time of planting. Five inch pots are large enough, and they must get very little water till they begin to grow.

_Oxalis_, above one hundred species of Cape bulbs, and like all other bulbs of that country, they do exceedingly well in our collections, in which there are only comparatively a few species, not exceeding twelve. _O. rubèlla_, branching, of a vermilion colour; _O. marginàta_, white; _O. elongàta_, striped; and _O. amæna_, are those that require potting this month. The first of September is the most proper period for the others.

This genus of plants is so varied in the construction of its roots, that the same treatment will not do for all. The root is commonly bulbous, and these will keep a few weeks or months out of the soil, according to their size. Several are only thick and fleshy: these ought not to be taken out of the pots, but kept in them, while dormant; and about the end of this month give them gentle waterings. When they begin to grow, take the earth from the roots, and pot them in fresh soil. In a few years the bulbs are curiously produced, the original bulb near the surface striking a radical fibre downright from its base, at the extremity of which is produced a new bulb for the next year's plant, the old one perishing.

_Ornithógalum_, Star of Bethlehem, about sixty species of bulbs, principally from the Cape of Good Hope. Many of them have little attraction. The most beautiful that we have seen are _O. lactéum_, which has a spike about one foot long of fine white flowers; and _O. aùreum_, flowers of a golden colour, in contracted racemose corymbs. These two are magnificent. _O. marítimum_ is the officinale squill. The bulb is frequently as large as a human head, pear-shaped, and tunicated like the onion. From the centre of the root arise several shining glaucous leaves a foot long, two inches broad at base, and narrowing to a point. They are green during winter, and decay in the spring; then the flower-stalk comes out, rising two feet, naked half way, and terminated by a pyramidal thyrse of white flowers. The bulb ought to be kept dry from the end of June till now, or it will not flower freely.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Watering, and other practical care of the plants, to be done as heretofore described. Frequently the weather at the end of this month becomes cool and heavy. Dew falling through the night will in part supply the syringing operation, but it must not be suspended altogether. Three times a week will suffice. Any of the plants that are plunged should be turned every week. In wet weather observe that none are suffering from moisture.

=FLOWER-GARDEN=

_AUGUST._

EVERGREEN HEDGES.

These always make two growths in the season, and the best time to perform the clipping or dressing of them is before the plants begin their second growth. Choose if possible dull and cloudy days for the operation. The general practice in forming these, is to have the sides even, and the top level, forming a right angle on each side. However neat in appearance this may be considered, it certainly is stiff and formal. We never approve of shearing where it can be avoided, and when adopted, nature ought to be imitated. We consider that all hedges and edgings ought to be narrowed at the top.

CARNATIONS AND PINKS.

If layed about the end of June, and been properly attended, they will by the end of this month be well rotted and fit for transplanting. Clear away the earth lightly, and cut them clean off from the parent plant, nearer the stool than the original slit. Raise them neatly out of the earth, with as many of the root-fibres as possible; cut off the naked part of the stem close to the fibrous roots, and trim away the straggling leaves. Plant the finest sorts in four inch pots, and those more common three plants in five inch pots, in the form of a triangle, which can be separated in spring to plant in the garden. Any of the principal stools should be (if in the ground) lifted and put into seven inch pots to be preserved: the others may be allowed to stand through the winter, covering them with a few dry leaves. Keep them in the shade a few weeks, when they may be fully exposed. Give gentle and frequent sprinklings of water until they have taken fresh root; or if in want of pots, mark out a bed that can be covered with a frame, preparing the soil therein properly. Plant them from four to six inches apart. Shade them from the sun until they begin to grow, giving sprinklings of water over the foliage every evening.

BULBOUS ROOTS.

Look over the bulbs that are out of the ground, and examine those that require planting. _Fritillària_, about twenty species, but few of them generally cultivated, except _F. imperiàlis_, Crown Imperial; and _F. pérsica_. These will require planting, and ought not to be lifted oftener than every third year. There are four or five varieties of the above, showy flowers, and singular in appearance. They require a deep rich loamy soil, and if in beds, plant them from three to four inches deep, and one foot apart. They will grow under shade of trees, or any situation where the soil is adapted for them. No imbricated or scaly bulb ought to be retained long out of the ground. When any of these are lifted, and the young bulbs taken off, they should be planted at once. See particularly on bulbous roots in general next month.

SOWING SEEDS OF BULBOUS ROOTS.

Where any seeds of these are saved, with the intention of sowing, let it be done this month. Procure boxes about seven inches deep, and in size proportioned to the quantity to be sown. Put five inches of light sandy soil in the box, level it smoothly, and sow the seeds separately and thickly; cover with half an inch of light sandy loam, with a portion of earth from the woods. Keep the box or boxes in a sheltered situation, giving frequent sprinklings of water to keep the earth damp, which must be protected with a frame, or covered with leaves during winter. The plants will appear in spring, and must be watered and kept in the shade: when the leaves decay in June, put one inch more soil upon them, and the second year they can be planted with the small offsets in the garden, and treated as other bulbs. They must be carefully marked every year. Tulips require many years of trial before their qualities are known; and a poor soil is best to produce their characters after the first bloom.

SOWING AND SAVING SEEDS.

About the end of this month or first of next, is an advisable period to sow seed of _Delphínum Ajácis flòreplèno_, or Double Rocket Larkspur. This plant does not flower in perfection except it is sown in autumn, and grown a little above ground before winter, when a few leaves can be lightly thrown amongst them, but not to cover them entirely, as that would cause damp, and they would rot off. _Coreópsis tinctòria_, which is now _Calliópsis tinctòria_, and a beautiful plant, should likewise be sown. Be attentive in saving all kinds of seeds, many of which will keep best in the capsule. Name them all correctly, and with the year in which they were grown.

=Rooms.=

_AUGUST._

For the kinds of plants that require potting, we refer to the Green-house for this month. All that are therein specified are peculiarly adapted for rooms, and we would call attention to the genus _Cyclamen_, which has not been generally introduced into the collections of our ladies; as, from the character and beauty of the flowers, they are very attracting and highly deserving of culture. Attend to the Geraniums as there directed, and be particular in having them cut down, and repotted, as there fully described. The _Oranges_, _Lemons_, _Oleanders_, and _Myrtles_, that are kept in cellars or rooms, should have the same attention in this month as directed in the Green-house, which to repeat here would be occupying space unnecessarily.

_Réseda odoráta_, or Mignonette, is one of the most fragrant annuals. To have it in perfection, the seed should be sown about the end of this month, or beginning of next, into pots of fine light earth, and sprinkled with water frequently. When it comes up the plants must be thinned out or transplanted; the former method is preferable. Keep them from frost during winter, and always near the light.

This will equally apply to the Green-house.

=Hot-House.=

_SEPTEMBER._

DRESSING THE PLANTS.

Having last month put the house in complete order, all that remains necessary to be attended to, is the state of the plants and pots, which should be regularly examined, and of those where the roots fill the soil, a little may be taken off the top, supplying its place with fresh earth, thereby giving what is called a top dressing. Give each a sufficient rod that requires it, tieing the plant neatly thereto; minutely scrutinise each for insects, and where they are detected, have them eradicated.

Finally, wash all contracted foulness from off the pots, at the same time pick off any decayed leaves; thus all will be in perfect order to take into the house. If any plants have been kept in the Hot-house during summer, they must likewise go through the same operations.

OF TAKING IN THE PLANTS.

From the 16th to the 24th, according to the season, is the proper time to take in the Hot-house plants. It is preferable to have them what might be deemed a few days too early, than have them in the slightest affected by cold.

Commence by housing the largest first, and those that stand farthest in the house, observing to place the most tender sorts nearest the heat or warmest part of the house. For observations on them, see _May_: in regard to arrangement, that must be according to the taste of the operator. We may observe that in a small collection it is better to have them in a regular than in a picturesque form. A dry shelf is indispensable in this department for placing on it all herbaceous plants, such as _Cánna_, _Hedychium_, _Zíngiber_, _Kæmpféria_, &c. the watering of which from this time should be gradually suspended, that they may have their required cessation to make them flower well. This shelf may be in any situation; one in darkness, where other plants will not grow, will answer perfectly well. If there is a bark bed, do not, until the end of December, plunge any of the pots therein.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

The plants being now all under protection, they must have as much air as possible admitted to them every day, by opening the doors, front and top sashes, closing only at night. The syringings must be continued, and care taken that plants of a deciduous or herbaceous nature are not over watered. _Alstr[oe]merias_ are apt to rot while dormant when they are supplied with water. The tuberous species might be kept almost dry. Some practical men of sound science repot these plants in this month into fresh soil, and allow them to stand till January almost without water. We have never adopted this method with any description of plants, but do not doubt of its success with that genus.

See that the ropes and pullies of the sashes are in good order, and fit to stand all winter.

=Green-House.=

_SEPTEMBER._

During this month every part of the Green-house should have a thorough cleansing, which is too frequently neglected, and many hundreds of insects left unmolested. To preserve the wood work in good order, give it one coat of paint every year. Repair all broken glass, white-wash the whole interior, giving the flues two or three coats, and cover the stages with hot-lime, white-wash, or oil-paint; examine ropes, pullies, and weights, finishing by washing the pavement perfectly clean. If there have been any plants in the house during summer, be sure after this cleansing that they are clean also, before they are returned to their respective situations.

OF WATERING.

The intensity of the heat being over for the season, the heavy dews during night will prevent so much absorption amongst the plants. They will, in general, especially by the end of the month, require limited supplies of water comparatively to their wants in the summer months. Be careful amongst the _Geraniums_ that were repotted in August, not to water them until the new soil about their roots is becoming dry. Syringing in this month may be suspended in time of heavy dews, but in dry nights resort to it again.

The herbaceous plants and those of a succulent nature must be sparingly supplied. The large trees that were put in new earth will require a supply only once a week, but in such quantity as will go to the bottom of the tubs.

PREPARING FOR TAKING IN THE PLANTS.

About the end of the month all the plants should be examined and cleaned in like manner as directed for those of the Hot-house last month, which see. From the 1st to the 8th of October is the most proper time to take them into the Green-house, except those of a half hardy nature, which may stand out till the appearance of frost. All the Geraniums that were put in the shade after shifting, may after the 10th be fully exposed, which will in some degree prevent them from being weak. Turn them in such a manner as will make them grow equally. Always endeavour to have these plants short and bushy, for they are unsightly otherwise, except where a few very large specimens are desired for show. All Myrtles and Oleanders that were headed down, if the young shoots are too crowded, continue to thin them out, and give regular turnings, that all the heads may grow regularly.

STOCKS AND WALL-FLOWERS,

That are wanted to flower in the Green-house (where they do remarkably well) and are in the ground, have them carefully lifted before the end of the month, and planted in six or seven inch pots, with light loamy soil. Place them in the shade till they take fresh root, and give them frequent sprinklings of water. As soon as the foliage becomes erect, expose them to the full sun, and treat as Green-house plants.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS.

These very ornamental plants blooming so late, and at a period when there are few others in flower, one of each variety (or two of some of the finest) should be lifted and put in 8 inch pots, in light loamy soil, and treated as above directed for Stocks, &c. These will flower beautifully from October to December, and when done blooming the pots may be plunged in the garden, or covered with any kind of litter, until spring, when they can be divided and planted out.

CAPE AND HOLLAND BULBS.

About the end of this month is the period for all of these that are intended for the Green-house to be potted. We specified some of the former last month, and will here enumerate a few others.

_Babìana_, a genus of small bulbs, with pretty blue, red, and yellow flowers. _B. distíca_, pale blue flowers in two ranks. _B. strícta_, flowers blue and white. _B. tubiflòra_ is beautiful, colour white and red. _B. plicàta_ has sweet-scented pale blue flowers. There are about twenty species of them, and they grow from six to twelve inches high. Four inch pots are sufficient for them.

_Gladìolus_, Corn-flag, a genus of above fifty species. There are several very showy plants amongst them, and a few very superb. _G. floribúndus_, large pink and white flowers. _G. cardinàlis_, flowers superb scarlet, spotted with white. _G. byzantìnus_, large purple flowers. _G. blándus_, flowers of a blush rose colour, and handsome. _G. cuspidàtus_, flowers white and purple. _G. psittácinus_ is the most magnificent of the genus, both in size and beauty of flower; the flowers are striped with green, yellow, and scarlet, about four inches diameter, in great profusion, on a stem about two feet high, and though rare in Europe may be seen in some collections in this country. The beauty of this genus is all centred in the flowers; the leaves are similar to _Iris_.

_Ixia_, a genus containing about twenty-five species of very free-flowering bulbs. _I. monadélpha_, flowers blush and green. _I. leucántha_, flowers large, white. _I. capitàta_, flowers in heads of a white and almost black colour. _I. cònica_, flowers orange and velvet. _I. columellàris_ is beautifully variegated with purple, blush, and vermilion colours. The flower stems are from six to twenty-four inches high.

_Sparáxis_, a beautiful genus of twelve species, closely allied to the last, but more varied in colour. _S. grandiflòra striàta_ is striped with purple ground blush. _S. versícolor_, colours crimson, dark purple, and yellow. _S. anemonæflòra_ is of various colours, and very similar to _Anemòne_.

_Tritònia_, a genus of about twenty-five species. Few of them deserve culture in regard to their beauty. _T. crocàta_ is in our collections, as _I. crocàta_, which is amongst the finest, and _T. zanthospìla_ has white flowers curiously spotted with yellow.

_Watsònia_, a genus containing several species of showy flowers, several of which are in our collections, under the genus _Gladíolus_, but the most of the species may easily be distinguished from it by their flat shell formed bulbs. _W. iridifòlia_ is the largest of the genus, and has flowers of a flesh colour. _W. ròsea_ is large growing, the flowers are pink, and on the stem in a pyramid form. _W. humilis_ is a pretty red flowering species. _W. fúlgida_, once _Antholyza fúlgens_, has fine bright scarlet flowers. _W. rùbens_ is an esteemed red flowering species, but scarce.

These six genera are in general cultivation. There are several of others of merit that our limits will not admit of inserting. We have no doubt there are some splendid species that have not come under our observation, and others which may be obtained from the Cape of Good Hope not known in any collection. Many hundreds of superb bulbs indigenous to that country, and of the same nature and habit of the above, have not been seen in collections. The flowers of those which we have specified are from one to four inches in diameter, ringent, tubular, or campanulate. Pots from four to seven inches diameter, according to the size of the roots, will be large enough. Give them very little water until they begin to grow; then supply moderately, and keep them near the light. Of the Holland or Dutch bulbs, the _Hyacinth_ is the favourite to bloom in the Green-house. A few of the _Tulip_, _Narcissus_, _Iris_, and _Crocus_, may for variety be also planted with any other that curiosity may dictate. When these are grown in pots, the soil should be four-eighths loam, two-eighths leaf mould, one-eighth decomposed manure, one-eighth sand, well compounded; plant in pots from four to seven inches, keep the crown of the bulb above the surface of the soil, except of the Tulip, which should be covered two inches. When these roots are potted, plunge them in the garden about three inches under ground; mark out a space sufficient to contain them; throw out the earth about four inches deep, place the pots therein, covering them with earth to the above depth, making it in the form of a bed. Leave a trench all round to carry off the rain. By so doing, the bulbs will root strong, the soil will be kept in a congenial state about them, and they will prove far superior than if done in the common method. Lift them from this bed on the approach of frost, or not later than the second week of December, wash the pots and take them to the Green-house.

OF REPOTTING.

_Vibúrnum._ This is a good period to repot all the flowering plants of this genus. For a full description of them, see _Green-house_, _March_. The repotting is only intended for young plants that are wanted to grow freely. When the _V. tìnus_ is much encouraged, it does not flower profusely.

_Lìlium_, Lily. There are four species of this splendid genus kept in the Green-house. It has always been our practice to repot them when they begin to grow, though it is said by some that, when removed at that time, they will not flower perfectly. They will not do to be kept above a few weeks out of the ground, and we think they ought never to be kept out any period. We place them here, that a choice may be made by the cultivator of either of the periods, which is not material; observing in either case, that excess of moisture is injurious while they are dormant. _L. longiflòrum_ grows about one foot high, with one or more flowers. _L. longiflòrum suavèolens_, is sweet-scented, and has only one flower. _L. japònicum_ is the most magnificent, grows about two feet high, with three or more flowers on one stem. _L. lancifòlium_; we incline to class this with _L. speciòsum_, there being no apparent distinction in any character. The flowers are all of the purest white. They require from five to seven inch pots.

=Flower Garden.=

_SEPTEMBER._

OF DAHLIAS.

See that all these plants are supported with proper stakes, rods, &c., that the wind may have no effect in breaking down or otherwise destroying the flower stems. Strictly observe their respective heights and colours, that they may be duly disposed and interspersed next year, if not done so this. If the early part of the month is dry, give them liberal supplies of water.

GENERAL CARE OF PLANTS IN POTS.

All the flowers that are in pots, and intended to be kept in frames during winter, should have a top-dressing, and a general preparation for their winter quarters, by tieing up, &c. The carnation and pink layers that were lifted and potted last month must be brought from the shade as soon as they begin to grow; and those that are not lifted, have them done forthwith, that they may be rooted afresh before the frost sets in. All Wall-flowers and Stocks should be lifted this month, and planted in five to seven inch pots, and treated as directed for carnation layers last month, until they begin to grow, when they must be fully exposed.

PREPARE BEDS AND BORDERS FOR BULBOUS ROOTS.

Bulbous roots of every character delight in deep free soil; consequently, wherever they are desired to be planted, due attention must be paid to put the soil in proper order, to have them in perfection. Where there are a quantity intended to be planted, to have them in beds is the general and preferable method. These ought to be dug from eighteen inches to two feet deep, at the bottom of which place three or four inches of decayed manure. Where the soil is poor it should be enriched with well decomposed manure and earth from the woods, incorporating both well with the soil, breaking it all fine. This being done, allow it to stand until the middle of next month, which see for farther directions.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Tie up carefully all the _Chrysánthemums_, _Tuberoses_, &c. Clear away the stems or haulm of any decayed annuals or herbaceous plants, that nothing unsightly may appear. Be attentive to the collecting of all kinds of seeds.

=Rooms.=

_SEPTEMBER._

Where there is a quantity of plants to be kept in these apartments, they should be disposed to the best effect, and at the same time in such a manner as will be most effectual to their preservation. A stage of some description is certainly the best, and, of whatever shape or form, it ought to be on castors, that it may, in severe nights of frost, be drawn to the centre of the room. The shape may be either concave, a half circle, or one square side. The bottom step or table should be six inches apart, keeping each successive step one inch farther apart, to the desired height, which may be about six feet. Allowing the first step to be about two feet from the floor, there will be five or six steps, which will hold about fifty pots of a common size. A stage in the form of half a circle will hold more, look the handsomest, and be most convenient. We have seen them circular, and when filled appeared like a pyramid. These do very well, but they must be turned every day, or the plants will not grow regularly. With this attention it is decidedly the best. Green is the most suitable colour to paint them.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

The directions given for the Green-house this month are equally applicable here. The _Tasseled White Chrysanthemum_, and a few other late blooming sorts, are particularly adapted for rooms. If there is no convenience to plunge the pots with Dutch bulbs in the garden, as described in the Green-house of this month, give them very little water until they begin to grow.

=Hot-House.=

_OCTOBER._

Very few directions remain to be given to the department of the Hot-house. The supplies of water for this and the two preceding months are, according to the state and nature of tropical plants, more limited than at any other period of the year. This is the first month of what may be called their dormant state. Observe the herbaceous plants, that they are, as soon as their foliage decays, set aside, in case of being too liberally supplied with water. Airing is highly essential about this period, that the plants may be gradually hardened; but guard against injuring them. The temperature should not be under fifty degrees; when the days are cool, and the wind chilling, airing is not necessary; and when air is admitted, always close up early in the afternoon, whilst the atmosphere is warm, to supersede the necessity of fire as long as possible. If at any time you have recourse to it in this month, use it with great caution.

Examine all the shutters and fastenings, and see that they are in good substantial order, and where deficient repair them instantly, that they may be in readiness. Remove all leaves, and give syringings twice a week. Clear off, sweep out, and wash clean, that every part may be in the neatest order.

=Green-House.=

_OCTOBER._

OF TAKING IN AND ARRANGING THE PLANTS.

As observed in the previous month, let the housing of Green-house plants now be attended to. Have all in before the eighth of the month, except a few of the half hardy sorts, which may stand until convenient. Begin by taking in all the tallest first, such as _Oranges_, _Lemons_, _Myrtles_, _Oleanders_, &c. Limes ought to be kept in the warmest part of the house, otherwise they will throw their foliage. In arrangement, order is necessary to have a good effect; and in small houses it ought to be neat and regular, placing the tallest behind, and according to their size graduating the others down to the lowest in front. Dispose the different sorts in varied order over the house, making the contrast as striking as possible. Having the surface of the whole as even as practicable, with a few of the most conspicuous for shape and beauty protruding above the mass, which will much improve the general appearance, and greatly add to the effect. All succulents should be put together. They will do in a dark part of the house, where other plants would not grow, studying to have the most tender kinds in the warmest part, and giving gentle waterings every three or four weeks. When all are arranged, give them a proper syringing, after which wipe clean all the stages, _benches_, &c. sweeping out all litter, and wash clean the pavement, which will give to all a neat and becoming appearance.

Let the waterings now be done in the mornings, as often and in such quantities as will supply their respective wants, examining the plants every day.

During the continuance of mild weather, the circulation of air must be as free as possible, opening the doors and front and top sashes regularly over the house. But observe in frosty nights, and wet, cloudy weather, to keep all close shut. Be attentive in clearing off decayed leaves and insects.

Any plants of _Lagerstræmia_, _Stercùlia_, _Hydrángea_, _Pomegranate_, and others equally hardy, that are deciduous, may be kept perfectly in a dry, light, airy cellar, giving frequent admissions of air.

OF REPOTTING.

_Anemònes._ Where _A. nemoròsa flòre plèno_ and _A. thalictròides flòre plèno_ are kept in pots in the Green-house, they should be turned out of the old earth, and planted in fresh soil. They are both pretty, low growing, double white flowering plants, and require a shaded situation. The latter is now called _Thalíctrum anemonoídes_.

_Dáphne_, is a genus of diminutive shrubs, mostly evergreens, of great beauty and fragrance. Very few species of them are in our collections. _D. odòra_, frequently called _D. índica_, is an esteemed plant for the delightful odour of its flowers, and valuable for the period of its flowering, being from December to March, according to the situation; leaves scattered, oblong, lanceolate, smooth; flowers small, white, in many-flowered terminale heads. _D. hybrida_ is a species in high estimation at present in Europe, but little known here, being only in a few collections; flowers rose-coloured, in terminale heads, and lateral bunches in great profusion, and very similar to the former in habit and shape of flower; blooms from January to May, and is of a peculiar fragrance. _D. oleoídes_ is what may be termed "ever-blooming;" flowers of a lilac colour; leaves elliptic, lanceolate, smooth. _D. laurèola_, Spurge laurel; _D. póntica_, _D. alpìna_, and _D. Cneòrum_, are all fine species, and in Europe are esteemed ornaments in the shrubbery, but we are not certain if they will prove hardy in our vicinity.

_Prímula._ There are a few fine species and varieties in this genus, adapted either for the Green-house or Rooms. All the species and varieties will keep perfectly well in a frame, except the China sorts. Having previously observed a few of the other species and varieties, we will observe the treatment of these. _P. sinénsis_, now _prænitens_, known commonly as China Primrose; flowers pink, and in large proliferous umbels, flowering almost through the whole year, but most profusely from January to May. Keep them in the shade, and be careful that they are not over-watered during summer. As the stems of the plant become naked, at this repotting a few inches should be taken off the bottom of the ball, and placing them in a larger pot will allow the stems to be covered up to the leaves. _P. p. albiflòra_, colour pure white and beautiful. _P. p. dentiflòra_. There is also a white variety of this, both similar to the two former, only the flower indented. All these require the same treatment. As they only live a few years, many individuals, to propagate them, divide the stems, which in most cases will utterly destroy them. The best, and we may say the only method to increase them, is from seed, which they produce in abundance every year.

_Pæonia_, is a magnificent genus. There are four varieties of them, half hardy and half shrubby. They will bear the winter if well protected, but are better in the Green-house. These are _P. moután_, Tree Pæony; the flower is about four inches in diameter, of a blush colour, and semi-double; _P. M. Bànksii_ is the common Tree Pæony, and called in our collection _P. Moutàn_; it has a very large double blush flower, and is much admired. _P. M. papaveràcea_ is a most magnificent variety; has large double white flowers, with pink centres; _P. M. ròsea_ is a splendid rose-coloured double variety, and is scarce. These plants ought not to be exposed to the sun while in flower, as the colours become degenerated, and premature decay follows.

If the Dutch bulbs intended for flowering during winter are not potted, have them all done as soon as possible, according to directions given last month.

CAMELLIAS.

These plants ought to have a thorough examination, and those that were omitted in repotting before they commenced growing, may be done in the early part of this month; but it is not adviseable, except the roots are matted round the ball of earth, which should be turned out entire. Examine all the pots, stir up the surface of the earth, and take it out to the roots, supplying its place with fresh soil. Destroy any worms that may be in the pots, as they are very destructive to the fibres. Look over the foliage and with a sponge and water clear it of all dust, &c. Frequently the buds are too crowded on these plants, especially the _Double white_ and _Variegated_. In such case pick off the weakest, and where there are two together, be careful in cutting, so that the remaining bud may not be injured.

This is the best period of the year to make selections of these, as they now can be transported hundreds of miles without any material injury, if they are judiciously packed in close boxes. In making a choice of these, keep in view to have distinctly marked varieties, including a few of those that are esteemed as stocks for producing new kinds, which are undoubtedly indispensable; and will reward the cultivator in a few years with new sorts. Besides, it will afford unbounded gratification to behold any of these universally admired ornaments of the Green-house improving by our assistance and under our immediate observation. There is nothing to prevent any individual from producing splendid varieties in a few years. Mr. Hogg correctly observes, "It is very probable in a few years we shall have as great a variety of Camellias, as there are of Tulips, Hyacinths, Carnations, Auriculas, &c."

It has been often said that these plants are difficult of cultivation. This is unfounded, indeed they are the reverse if put in a soil congenial to their nature. When highly manured soils are given, which are poisonous to the plants, sickness or death will inevitably ensue; but this cannot be attributed to the delicacy of their nature. We can unhesitatingly say there is no Green-house plant more hardy or easier of cultivation, and they are equally so in the parlour, if not kept confined in a room where there is a continuance of drying fire heat, their constitution not agreeing with an arid atmosphere.

=Flower-Garden.=

_OCTOBER._