Chapter I: Part 1

MICHELIN ILLUSTRATED GUIDES
TO THE BATTLEFIELDS (1914–1918)

THE AMERICANS

IN THE

GREAT WAR

VOLUME II.

THE BATTLE OF SAINT MIHIEL

(ST. MIHIEL, PONT-à-MOUSSON, METZ.)

MICHELIN & Cie., CLERMONT=FERRAND

MICHELIN TYRE Co. Ltd., 81 Fulham Road, LONDON, S. W.

MICHELIN TIRE Co., MILLTOWN, N. J., U. S. A.

Good Road Map

is, if you haven’t used the

Michelin Map

SCALE: 1: 200.000 (3.15 Miles to the inch.)

On Sale at Michelin Stockists and Booksellers

The tourist finds his way about easily _in a town_, if he has a plan
giving the names of the streets.

He gets about with the same ease and certainty _on the road_, if he has
a =Michelin Map=, because it gives the numbers of all the roads.]

The Michelin Wheel

BEST of all detachable wheels
because the least complicated

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THE “TOURING CLUB DE FRANCE”

WHAT IS IT? WHAT ARE ITS USES?

The “Touring Club de France” (founded in 1890), is at the present time the largest Touring Association in the whole world. Its principal aim is to introduce France—admirable country and one of the loveliest on earth—to French people themselves and to foreigners.

It seeks to develop travel in all its forms—on foot, on horseback, on bicycle, in carriage, motor, yacht, or railway, and soon in aeroplane.

Every member of the Association receives a badge and an identity ticket free of charge, also the “Revue Mensuelle” every month.

Members have also the benefit of special prices in a certain number of affiliated hotels; and this holds good for the purchase of guide-books and Staff (Etat-major) maps, as well as those of the “Ministère de l’Intérieur,” the T. C. F., etc. They may insert notices regarding the sale or purchase of travelling requisites in the “Revue” (1 fr. per line). The “Comité des Contentieux” is ready to give them counsel with regard to travelling, and 3,000 delegates in all the principal towns are able to give them advice and information about the curiosities of art or of nature in the neighborhood, as well as concerning the roads, hotels, motor-agents, garages, etc.

Members are accorded free passage across the frontier for a bicycle or motor-bicycle. For a motor-car the Association gives a “Triptyque” ensuring free passage through the “douane,” etc.

ONE TRAVELS BEST IN FRANCE WHEN A MEMBER OF THE “TOURING CLUB DE FRANCE”

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THE AMERICANS

IN THE

GREAT WAR

VOLUME II.

THE BATTLE OF ST. MIHIEL

(ST. MIHIEL, PONT-À-MOUSSON, METZ.)

_Published by_ Michelin & Cie, Clermont-Ferrand, (France)

Copyright, 1920, by Michelin & Cie

_All rights of translation, adaptation or reproduction (in part or
whole), reserved in all countries._

FOREWORD

THE ST. MIHIEL VICTORY, SEPTEMBER, 1918

The world already knows of the undying glory achieved in the Great War by the American Soldiers, but perhaps less is known about the historic ground over which they fought.

The purpose of the present volume is more to describe, for the benefit of the tourist, that section of France where the battle of Saint-Mihiel raged, than to dwell on the splendid achievements of the brave troops from across the seas, who took that ancient stronghold, and thus opened the way to Metz.

At the same time it is fitting to remind the reader that at Saint-Mihiel the Americans liberated over 150 square miles of French territory; took over 15,000 German prisoners, and captured upwards of 200 guns.

President Poincaré, in a message to President Wilson, expressed in the following words, the feelings of France regarding the glorious achievements of the American troops: “I congratulate you, Mr. President, on a victory which has been completed so brilliantly. General Pershing’s magnificent divisions have just liberated with admirable dash, cities and villages of Lorraine which have been groaning for years under the yoke of the enemy. I express the warmest thanks of France to the people of the United States.”

Marshal Foch, also, expressed the greatest possible admiration for the way the American troops fought their way to the great victory at Saint-Mihiel. In describing the battle Marshal Foch said: “This was where the Americans for the first time showed their worth. This is where we were able to judge of these admirable soldiers, strong in body and valiant in soul. In one swoop they reduced the famous salient, which during so long we did not know how to approach.”

In closing this brief introduction the publisher wishes to say that it would have been an easy matter to fill the pages following with many high-sounding phrases and verbose descriptions, but it has been thought better to adhere to the facts (they speak for themselves), and to furnish the tourist as briefly as possible with an historically correct account of the great victory of Saint-Mihiel.

AMERICAN FORCES ENGAGED

FIRST ARMY CORPS

Major-General Hunter Liggett

comprising the

_82nd Division Major-General W. P. Burnham_

_90th „ „ „ Henry T. Allen._

_5th „ „ „ John McMahon._

_2nd „ „ „ John A. Le Jeune._

_Commanding the 1st Army Corps._]

FOURTH ARMY CORPS

Major-General Joseph T. Dickman

comprising the

_89th Division Brig.-General Frank L. Winn._

_42nd „ Major-General C. A. Flagler._

_1st „ „ „ E. F. McGlachlin._

_3rd „(Res.) „ „ B. B. Buck._

_Commanding the 4th Army Corps._]

FIFTH ARMY CORPS

Major-General George H. Cameron

comprising the

_26th Division Major-General Harry C. Hale._

_4th „ „ „ Mark L. Hersey._

_Commanding the 5th Army Corps._]

MAJ.-GEN. J. A. LE JEUNE, _2nd Inf. Divn._ ]

_90th Inf. Divn._]

_42nd Inf. Divn._]

_4th Inf. Divn._]

_In constructing these defences, Gen. Séré de Rivières’ plans provided for the concentration of the French Armies to the west of the Meuse, the bridges being within range of the guns of the forts on the Meuse Heights. The quadrilateral formed by Woëvre Plain was open to the enemy._]

THE MILITARY OPERATIONS IN THE ST. MIHIEL SALIENT (1914–1918).

The Frontier in 1914

(_See map, p. 8._)

If we look at a map of the Franco-German frontier of 1914, between Nancy and Verdun, it will be seen that two rivers—the Meuse and the Moselle—ran parallel with the frontier, forming a double line of defences. The Moselle is protected by the hills of that name, and the Meuse by the Heights of Meuse, the eastern side of which, facing Germany, consists of a series of steep cliffs.

When, in 1875, General Séré de Rivières was instructed to fortify this frontier, his plans provided for the construction of a line of forts along the Meuse Heights, capable of holding the bridges across the Meuse under gunfire, and thus enable the French Armies to concentrate behind the river near Neufchâteau. The three northern forts, therefore, faced the Meuse; the southern forts, viz., Gironville and Liouville, commanded both the Meuse and the Woëvre.

The drawback to this plan was that the vast Woëvre Plain lying between Stenay, Longwy, Toul and Nancy, would be sacrificed in the event of a surprise attack. The importance of this possible loss was made all the greater by the discovery of coalfields in the Briey district. It was therefore decided that a number of battalions of Chasseurs should be garrisoned in the Woëvre towns. Moreover, the passing of the Three Years’ Military Service Bill made it possible to increase considerably the number of covering troops. In 1914, the Plan of Concentration provided for the grouping of the French Third Army in the Woëvre Plain. However, no permanent defences were erected. The fortress of Longwy, being isolated and of little military value, could not give effective protection.

The German Government had on several occasions given the French Government to understand that they would disapprove the erection of fortifications in Woëvre. On the other hand, the Germans unceasingly strengthened their own frontier from Metz to Thionville, increasing the perimeter of the entrenched camp of Metz from 25 to 90 kilometres and erecting ten new forts. All the attacks against the Meuse Heights started from this vast entrenched camp, which, for four years, also furnished the German lines of St. Mihiel with troops.

September 7, 1914, and the following days were particularly anxious ones for General Sarrail’s army which, resting as it did on Verdun, was to form the pivot of Joffre’s famous manœuvre (_see the Michelin Illustrated Guide_: “The Battlefields of the Marne, 1914”).

HOW THE ST. MIHIEL SALIENT WAS FORMED

First Attempt during the Battle of the Marne

(_See map, p. 10._)

A furious frontal attack was made on this army by the ex-Crown Prince of Germany, while at the same time it was taken in the rear, on the Meuse Heights, by the Bavarian Crown Prince. Had the latter succeeded in crossing the Meuse, Verdun would have become untenable; General Sarrail would have been forced to retreat southwards, and, as in this gigantic battle of the Marne all the armies were interdependent, such a withdrawal would have been felt all along the line, and Joffre’s plans for a strategical recovery would have failed.

On September 8, the Germans bombarded the Fort of Troyon. The Governor of Verdun telegraphed to the officer in command of the fort that victory depended upon his resistance, and requested him to hold out “indefinitely.” As a precautionary measure, General Sarrail ordered several of the bridges across the Meuse to be destroyed.

On September 9, the fort’s guns were put out of action, but the defenders repulsed several assaults. Génicourt Fort was next bombarded.

_While the Battle of the Marne was raging, the Germans attempted in vain to capture the Meuse Heights, in order to take Gen. Sarrail’s Army—the pivot of Joffre’s manoeuvre—in the rear._]

On the 10th, the forts were still holding out, although deluged with shells. Meanwhile the German infantry advanced towards St. Mihiel.

However, the Battle of the Marne had now been won on the left wing, and the German retreat, which was to extend as far as the Verdun—St. Mihiel district, had begun.

General de Castelnau despatched the 73rd Reserve and 2nd Cavalry Divisions of his army to Troyon, and the fort was relieved on September 13. The mobile defence forces of Verdun pursued the retreating Germans across the Meuse and established themselves to the east of the town, while General Sarrail’s army advanced towards the north and west.

The German plan had completely failed.

Their set-back at Troyon did not prevent the Germans reforming, and they attacked the Meuse Heights again on September 20, in an endeavour to outflank Verdun from the south. Four army corps under General von Strantz, starting from Metz, advanced rapidly on the 22nd to the Combres-Vigneulles-Thiaumont line, and began a methodical bombardment of the forts on the Meuse Heights. These were soon pounded into shapeless heaps of _débris_, but the gallant defenders still held on and repulsed all assaults.

On the 23rd, the enemy advanced to Seicheprey. The mobile defence forces of the region, greatly outnumbered (two or three to one), formed only a very thin line, the depth of which steadily decreased as it extended beyond Verdun to the south.

On September 24, the German attacks were renewed with increased fury. On the 25th, they succeeded in gaining a footing on the Meuse Heights near Vigneulles, whence they advanced to St. Mihiel, which they entered without, however, crossing the Meuse. At this point the river was only defended by one battalion of Territorials, and the Germans were able to cross on the 26th, after which they began to advance towards the valley of the Aire, in the direction of Verdun. The situation was critical. The 16th Corps from Nancy met and defeated the German forces, and obliged them to fall back in disorder on the suburbs of St. Mihiel, but were unable to force them back across the river. On September 29, the front line ran through Combres, Chauvoncourt, Apremont and Seicheprey.

The salient had been made.

_In the background_: Temporary foot-bridge built by the Allies in Sept., 1918.]

THE ST. MIHIEL SALIENT—Oct., 1914, to Sept., 1918

(_See map, p. 13._)

From November 17–20 the French endeavoured to drive the Germans from the bridgehead which the enemy held at Chauvoncourt, opposite St. Mihiel. In a spirited attack they drove the Germans from the suburb and barracks of Chauvoncourt. However, the latter had been mined, the Germans, taking advantage of the confusion caused by the explosion, counter-attacked and reoccupied Chauvoncourt.

This was the last attack made at the point of the salient. Only local fighting of extreme violence now took place in Apremont Forest, the result of which was, the French prevented the Germans extending the salient.

French offensives were launched against the northern and southern sides of the salient, at Eparges and Prêtre Wood, in the hope of narrowing the salient and forcing the Germans to evacuate it. Eparges Crest was conquered after more than two months of the fiercest possible fighting, ending on April 9, 1915.

However, these local actions were insufficient, and little by little the line became fixed. Both sides entrenched themselves and bombarded each other unceasingly, while the sappers carried out long and strenuous mining operations. Attacks were henceforth confined to small local objectives: a wood, house, bridge or crater, and it required the great American offensive of September, 1918, to flatten out this salient which, for four years, had formed a huge “pocket” inside the French lines.

The Salient during the Battle of Verdun

The German offensive, which began on February 21, 1916, caused a slight withdrawal along the whole of the French Verdun-Nancy line (_see the Michelin Illustrated Guide_: “Verdun”). The French line was withdrawn behind Fresnes, passing thence round Eparges Crest, which formed a hinge.

After the French counter-offensive of July-September, 1917, which disengaged Verdun and the immediate vicinity, their positions were further improved by a series of local operations at Eparges and around Pont-à-Mousson.

_Gen. F. E. Bamford, commanding the American 2nd Brigade, watching the advance of his troops before Beaumont, Sept. 12, 1918._]

THE AMERICAN OFFENSIVE OF SEPTEMBER, 1918

It has been seen in the _Michelin Illustrated Guide_: “The Americans in the Great War,” Vol. I., that the 1st and 3rd American Corps, under the respective commands of Major-Generals Liggett and Bullard, reached the Vesle at the beginning of August, 1918. General Pershing’s intention at that time was to use these two army corps to form the American First Army which, under his personal command, was to relieve the French 6th Army (General Degoutte). However, the Germans having given proof of their intention to defend the Vesle line at all cost, Marshal Foch decided to attack at another point of the front, and entrusted the task of flattening out the salient to the American Army.

_American Sappers pulling down the walls of the ruined houses to fill in the German trenches across the roads in the salient._]

This operation had already been carefully studied by the American Staff, for it was in this region that the first American divisions were trained in active warfare.

The 1st Division was holding the sector extending from Ailly Wood to Mortmare Wood, when it was relieved by the 26th Division on April 2, 1918, and despatched to the Somme, where it covered itself with glory by the capture of Cantigny. On April 20, the 26th Division withstood a powerful surprise attack at Seicheprey, where, after losing part of the village, it succeeded in fully re-establishing its front. On July 10, it was sent from the Woëvre district to take part in the Battle of the Ourcq.

From January, 1918, the 2nd Division held that part of the front lying between Eparges and Spada Pass, where it received a thorough training, the effects of which the Germans were destined to feel around Château-Thierry in June, 1918.

On August 30, General Pershing took over the command of the First Army, with Headquarters at Ligny-en-Barrois. At that time, the front line of the salient ran as follows: from Eparges Crest it descended in an almost straight line to St. Mihiel, along the Meuse Heights; passing thence round St. Mihiel, the great bend in the Meuse and the Camp-des-Romains, it described a vast semicircle; then turning sharply eastwards, it proceeded towards Pont-à-Mousson, passing through the woods of Apremont, Ailly, Mortmare and Le Prêtre.

The total length of the salient front was about 65 km., and its width along the German lines between Eparges and Regniéville (near Prêtre Wood) about 39 km. It penetrated the French lines to a maximum depth of 22 km.

_It measured 39 km. across its greatest width, 22 km. in depth, and about 65 km. along its front._]

Since 1916 this important salient had been fairly quiet, and beyond intermittent bombardments—which showed that the lines on both sides were defended and that the artillery was on the alert—and a few local attacks, the communiqués had nothing to report. This salient, however, greatly hampered the French lines of communication, cutting as it did the railway between Verdun and Toul. This line, which runs as far as Epinal and Belfort, linked up these four great eastern fortresses before the war.

The Defences of the Salient

(_See map below._)

Through aerial observations and prisoners taken during raids, the American High Command knew that the enemy possessed several lines of defences, one behind the other, in the salient, and that beyond the first line of trenches facing the front was a second line known as the Schroeter Zone, which formed a second salient about 5 km. within the first. This line began north-east of Eparges, and went southwards across the Meuse Heights, then descending eastwards near Varvinay as far as Buxières, afterwards passing behind the deep valley of the Rupt-de-Mad, and lastly going in a north-easterly direction through Nonsard, Lamarche, Beney and Xammes, where it joined up with the Michel line. The latter formed part of the system of defences known as the _Hindenburg Line or Kriemhilde Position_—considered impregnable by the Germans, and of which they said to the Allies: “Thus far, and no further”—and it was there that the final enemy stand in the salient was to be made.

_The German lines of defence extended in échelons over the whole depth of the salient, and rested on the zone of the advanced forts of Metz._]

The Opposing Forces

(_See map below._)

Lieutenant-General Fuchs, Commander of the German forces in the salient, had eight divisions in the line and five divisions of reserves.

These divisions formed part of the forces of General von Gallwitz, commanding the army group, and it was he who really opposed the Americans.

On this front General Pershing had four army corps disposed as follows:—

The 1st Corps, comprising the 82nd, 90th, 5th and 2nd Divisions, commanded by Major-General Hunter Liggett, operated from Clémery, east of the Moselle, to Limey.

The 4th Corps, consisting of the 89th, 42nd and 1st Divisions, commanded by Major-General Joseph T. Dickman, operated from Limey to Xivray.

To these two Corps was assigned the task of carrying out the main attack, their objective being the Vigneulles-St. Benoit-Xammes line, which was to be reached in three successive rushes.

The 5th American Corps, composed of the 26th and 4th Divisions under Major-General George H. Cameron, and supported by the French 15th Division, carried out a secondary attack from Mouilly to Watronville, the objectives being, first the capture of the crests of Eparges and Combres, then the Combres-Vigneulles line. The Corps was to join hands in the latter village with the troops engaged in the main attack.

The French 2nd Colonial Corps, first under General Blondlat and afterwards General Claudel, operated in the centre of the salient, from Xivray to Mouilly, with orders to protect the flanks of the two American attacks.

The attacking forces consisted of some 216,000 Americans and 48,000 French, in addition to the American Reserves (190,000 men), who were ready at a moment’s notice to take part in the battle.

In his official report General Pershing stated that he had mustered a body of troops three times as large as General Grant’s Army of the Potomac in 1864–1865.

_Two secondary attacks on Sept. 12 held the enemy at the bottom of the salient, while the main attacks on the flanks crushed in the latter, as in the jaws of a vise. On Sept. 13, the Germans, in danger of being cut off, were forced to evacuate the salient._]

Flattening out the Salient, Sept. 12, 1918

(_See map above._)

Despite all the precautions taken by General Pershing to ensure the secrecy of his troops’ movements in the St. Mihiel sector, the Germans expected the attack, and as early as the beginning of September began to withdraw their heavy guns, and to make active preparations for the total evacuation of the salient. However, General Pershing did not give them time to do this, and ordered the attack to be made on September 12, at 5 a.m. for the 1st and 4th Corps, and at 8 a.m. for the 5th Corps.

The attack had been worked out in minute detail, and the time-table of the advance exactly laid down. Everything took place as arranged. After an artillery preparation lasting four hours, the American divisions advanced, supported by a certain number of tanks, half of them driven by Americans and the other half by Frenchmen. Accompanied by soldiers whose duty it was to cut the barbed wire, and by men armed with “bangalore torpedoes,” the Americans advanced in successive waves. They soon reached the enemy trenches and fell unexpectedly on the demoralized foe in the middle of a fog.

On September 12 (12/9) the 1st Corps quickly took Thiaucourt, whilst the 4th Corps, operating on the left, advanced beyond Montsec and reached Nonsard, further north. At the point of the salient, the 2nd French Colonial Corps gradually attained the objectives assigned to it. The 2nd Cavalry Division captured more than 2,500 prisoners with a loss of only fourteen men killed and 116 wounded. At the other end, the 5th American Corps carried the crests of Eparges and Combres, repulsed a counter-attack, and quickly joined hands with the patrols of the 4th Corps at Vigneulles.

On the morning of September 13 (13/9), Generals Pershing and Pétain entered St. Mihiel. In the evening the new front line ran as follows: Herbeuville, Thillot-sous-les-Côtes, Hattonville, St. Benoit, Xammes, Jaulny, Norroy.

It was a fine victory: 16,000 prisoners, 443 guns of all calibres, and huge quantities of stores and munitions were captured, with a loss of only 7,000 killed and wounded.

The German retreat continued on September 14 and 15 (14/9 and 15/9) to the line Fresnes—Hautmont—Rembercourt.

The offensive was finished; the jaws of the vise had closed on the salient, and the latter had disappeared. From the American advance-posts the out-works of Metz were now plainly visible, and Wagner Fort, situated in front of the town, was already under the fire of the American guns.

German Comments on the Attack

A German report on the American attack of the St. Mihiel salient contains the following:—“_The Americans made a clever use of their machine-guns. They are stubborn in defence, and rely greatly upon this weapon, of which they have large numbers._

“_The artillery preparation, which preceded the attack, was well carried out. The objectives were efficiently bombarded. The American gunners were able to change their targets in the minimum of time, and with great accuracy. The liaison between the infantry and the artillery was faultless. Whenever the infantry were stopped by a nest of machine-guns, they immediately fell back, and their artillery promptly shelled the nest of machine-guns._

“_Numerous tanks were ready, but only a few actually used; the masses of infantry alone ensured the victory._”

MARSHAL FOCH

GENERAL PERSHING ]

France’s Congratulations

Immediately after the first American successes in the salient, the President of the French Republic cabled his warmest congratulations to President Wilson for the victory of “_General Pershing’s magnificent divisions, fraternally seconded by French troops_.”

The praise was well deserved, as in two days the Americans had liberated 150 square miles of French territory which had been occupied four years by the enemy.

_A crushing offensive was on the eve of being launched. The enemy, incapable of effectual resistance, hauled down their flag and capitulated._]

St. Mihiel Front from Sept. 15 to Armistice Day

During the great Meuse-Argonne Battle, fought by General Pershing’s troops after September 26, the operations on the St. Mihiel front were limited to intermittent bombardments and local attacks.

When the Armistice was signed on November 11, General Pershing was making dispositions to invest Metz by an offensive towards Longwy with the 1st Army, and towards Briey with the 2nd Army, while a detachment of six American divisions was to co-operate on the right bank of the Moselle with General Mangin’s Army, in an attack on Château-Salins. Meanwhile, the Germans had already begun to evacuate Metz. The Allies’ advance began on November 10 and 11, but the general capitulation of the Germans, on terms dictated by the Allies, robbed the Americans of a new and crushing victory, which would have fittingly crowned their fine success at St. Mihiel.

A VISIT TO THE BATTLEFIELDS

IN THREE ITINERARIES

FIRST ITINERARY (_p. 22_) Distance: 80 km. (_See pp. 23–71_)

=VERDUN to COMMERCY, via Calonne Trench, Eparges, Apremont Forest, Ailly Wood and St. Mihiel=, including =A VISIT TO ST. MIHIEL= (_pp. 55–69_)

SECOND ITINERARY (_pp. 72–137_) Distance: 142 km. (_See pp. 72–137_)

=COMMERCY to METZ, via Pont-à-Mousson=, including =A VISIT TO PRÊTRE WOOD= (_pp. 102–119_)

=A VISIT TO METZ= (120–137)

THIRD ITINERARY (_pp. 138–145_) =METZ to VERDUN, via Etain= (_pp. 138–145_)

_Follow the roads indicated by the continuous black lines, in the direction of the arrows. See sheets 7 and 12 of the Michelin Touring Map._]

(_From the Michelin Guide: The Battle of Verdun._)]

FIRST DAY

FROM VERDUN TO COMMERCY

_Leave Verdun by the Rue de l’Hôtel-de-Ville, Rue St. Sauveur, Rue and Gate of St. Victor (photo below) and N. 3._

_Ten kilometres down this road, Rozellier Fort will be seen on the left. One kilometre further on, take the strategic I.C. 3, also known as Calonne Trench, on the right._

(_From the Michelin Guide: The Battle of Verdun._)]

_French Post of Commandment on the left, about 200 yds. before the fork in the road to Haudiomont (see sketch map, p. 25)._]

Calonne Trench

This picturesque road enables the tourist to follow the phases of the struggle which took place in the district of Les Eparges. The road crosses in an almost straight line the whole forest of Amblonville, Bouchot Wood, and La Montagne Forest, and comes out about twelve miles further on at the Hattan-châtel cross-roads. Formerly this road was used only by poachers, gamekeepers, and shooting-parties, being a well-known haunt of game.

Calonne Trench will, in future, evoke more tragic memories. The name “Trench” might lead one to suppose that it dates from the Great War, but this is not the case. For more than a century the road, cut out of the crest of the hills, has borne this name. It was made by order of M. de Calonne, Minister of Finance under Louis XVI., to give access to his château at the foot of the Meuse hills. This château was destroyed during the Revolution.

_The “Bouée” Post of Commandment, 1 km. after the fork, and 100 yds. in the wood on the left of the road (see sketch map, p. 25)._]

_French Trenches and Observation-Post on the right, before reaching the road to Eparges (see sketch map, p. 26)._]

It is said that M. de Calonne, hoping some day to entertain the king at his château, had rose-trees planted the whole length of this road. However that may be, it is a fact that during the War wild roses were seen in bloom all along this forest road, at that time really a “trench” in the military sense of the word.

The battle-front crossed Calonne Trench a little to the south-west of St. Remy, in Bouchot Wood. Both adversaries bombarded each other and were kept constantly on the alert by attacks and counter-attacks. In March, 1915, 5.5–in. naval guns with a range of 13,000 yards were placed in position, to fire over Les Eparges, behind the enemy lines.

The marines had great difficulty in bringing these heavy guns into action, owing to the slippery, clayey soil.

Their effective bombardment irritated the Germans so much that on April 20 they bombarded the French lines and, four days later, launched a massed attack which reached the third line of support.

The marine officers, cut off from their base and unable to communicate with the infantry—the telephone wires being cut—hastily organised defences. They swept the ground with the fire of their heavies and some 75’s brought up by hand, which opened at fuse 0.

+ + _Lower photo, p. 24._]

_On the left: Road to Eparges (impracticable)._]

Meanwhile the Germans continued to advance. On the 25th they were within a thousand yards of the guns, and only vestiges of the trenches and of the original barbed wire entanglements lay between them and the guns. On the 26th, while the marines were preparing a vigorous resistance, two battalions of French Chasseurs, summoned to reinforce them, crept through the brushwood and began a counter-attack. On the 27th, the firing became more distant, but the Germans re-formed and renewed the attack on May 5. At first they met with some success, but this was quickly changed by the intervention of the Moroccan Brigade and six battalions of Chasseurs, who retook in a few hours all the ground lost on April 24.

Calonne Trench enters the forest almost immediately. On both sides of the road are numerous engineer and artillery parks, ambulance stations, shelters, rail-tracks and gun-pits.

_Three kilometres from N. 3 and on the left, 200 yards before reaching the fork in I.C. 59, which lead to Haudiomont, there is a French Post of Commandment (photo, p. 24); fifty yards to the right, beyond the fork, a military cemetery; 1 km. beyond the fork, on the left of the road, a hundred yards in the wood, the “Bouée” Post of Commandment (photo, p. 24); 2 km. further on, to the left, a French military cemetery._

_Leave the fork of Mont-sous-les-Côtes on the left and follow the road._

++ _Photo, p. 26._]

In the “Taillis de Sauls” the French first lines (trenches, shelters, dug-outs, barbed wire entanglements and observation-posts) begin; _on the left_, a military cemetery; _on the right_, a concrete shelter.

_German shelters and dug-outs._]

From this point to where the destroyed road to Eparges begins (_photo, p. 26_) the forest consists of little more than blackened shell-torn tree-stumps.

_Continue along Calonne Trench which, for 1,500 yards, crosses_ Senoux Hill. Here the spectacle is appalling, especially on the site of the German trenches. _Bear to the left and take I.C. 13 towards St. Remy. It is a bad road, but with care passable._ For 2½ _km. it descends to the Eparges stream_.

_In the background_: Combres Crest (_right_), Eparges Crest (_left_).]

All along this road, cut out of the left side of the hill, are concrete shelters, dug-outs, underground passages, German posts of commandment, and a few German graves.

_Note the German stone and concrete Gun Shelter. The Germans bombarded Eparges from here._]

_In the valley, a cross-road is reached, close to the stream._ _Take the road to the right to St. Remy_, the ruins of which are seen in the distance.

_Climb up to the church_ (German graves in the cemetery). Fine extensive view across the valley towards Combres and Eparges.

In the church, where the altar formerly stood, is a German shelter of stone and concrete, which concealed a big gun firing on Eparges (_photo above_).

_On the right_: Montgirmont Hill; _on the left_: Hures Hill.]

_Return to the cross-road and continue along the bottom of the valley_ (_I.C. 54_) _to the village_ of =Eparges.= The road crosses the original German and French front lines.

_The Cemetery is in front of the last house on the right of the road to Trésauvaux._]

A, _The Woëvre_; B, _Trench along Montgirmont Crest_ (_the photo was taken from here_); C, _Eparges Crest_; D, _Death Ravine_; E, _Shelters in the sides of Eparges Crest_; F, _Trench_.]

_Go through the village_, of which only a few walls remain standing. Numerous French defence works, including some of concrete.

_At the last house the road turns to the right in front of_ a French cemetery, _and goes towards_ =Trésauvaux=, passing between Montgirmont Crest _on the right and_ Hures Hill _on the left_ (_photo, p. 28_). All along the trenches, shelters and numerous graves.

_At the top of the hill_ the houses of Trésauvaux _come into view_. _Here leave the car and climb the slopes of Montgirmont_ (trenches, boyaux, etc.), _from the top of which there is a fine_ panorama of Eparges on the French side (_photo, p. 29_).

It is a desolate scene. The side of the hill is full of craters and shell-holes, forming so many grey patches on the reddish earth on which no vegetation survives. The glorious crest, entirely bare, stands out against the sky. Death Ravine, where so many brave men fell in the first assault on Eparges, lies between Montgirmont (_where the tourist stands_) and Eparges.

Eparges Spur

Eparges Spur, 1,500 yards in length and over a thousand feet high, forms the end of Woëvre Plain. Its sides are steep and slippery, while numerous springs and rivulets run down its slopes. It has been rightly called “a mountain of mud.” Eparges Heights form part of a series of hills, among which are Hures, Montgirmont, Combres and St. Remy. Of these, Eparges Crest is the most important. By nature an observation-post, its possession enabled those who held it to keep all the surrounding roads under gunfire.

The Germans captured it on September 21, 1914, and immediately made several lines of trenches between the summit and the valleys. At some points, five rows of batteries, one above another, were placed, and nowhere were there less than two.

Facing Eparges Crest, the French held the brow of Montgirmont to the north, and below, the village of Eparges, only 600 yards from the German trenches. Between Montgirmont and the northern slopes of Eparges Heights, an earth track crosses the pass between the two hills. It was on the western side that, at the end of October, the French began the attack, sapping step by step, while at the same time they slipped into the woods on the north-east, which cover the side of the ravine.

From February onward, attacks and counter-attacks took place almost daily and only came to an end early in April, after the French had captured the crest. On February 17, the explosion of a mine enabled the French to enter the west sector of the enemy’s first line. Attacks and counter-attacks continued for five days, during which Colonel Bacquet was mortally wounded while leading his troops. The French held the whole of the western bastion, and began to make progress towards the eastern bastion. From March 13 to 21 they renewed their attacks and captured the enemy’s first line.

On March 27, a battalion of Chasseurs made a fresh advance, and on April 5 began the last great attack which was to continue day and night until the 9th.

Two regiments attacked in the rain, but the muddy ground greatly impeded their movements, and it seemed at times as if the attack would fail.

In the evening the French occupied some of the trenches, but the use of aerial torpedoes, which pulverized whole rows of men, and a massed counter-attack launched at 4.30 on the morning of the 6th, forced them to give up part of the ground gained in the first advance. On the evening of the 6th, and throughout that night, in spite of the incessant rain, the trenches were retaken and the enemy driven back foot by foot, with a loss of 100 prisoners, including several officers. The French replied to the German counter-attacks with bayonet charges or barrage fire. The communicating trenches were bombarded, levelled, or blocked up. On the 8th, two regiments of infantry and a battalion of Chasseurs made a fresh bayonet charge. At 10 o’clock the summit and the western crest were strongly held, and by midnight, after fifteen hours of strenuous, uninterrupted fighting, almost the whole of the crest was in the hands of the French.

During the night of the 8th, the relief of the troops was carried out, but the ground was so muddy that men sank into it, stumbling and slipping at every step. Fourteen hours passed in blinding rainstorms before the fresh troops were established in position. At 3 o’clock in the afternoon of the 9th the attack was resumed. The ground was full of deep holes in which men sometimes disappeared. At the moment when the eastern edge of the plateau was reached a cloud of fog descended over the crest. Firing was out of the question. The Germans counter-attacked and forced the French to retreat momentarily, but half an hour later the French retook the lost ground in a furious charge, and by 10 o’clock at night held the whole of the Eparges Heights. Only Combres Hill, threatened by the machine-guns of Eparges and St. Remy, remained in the hands of the Germans.

The enemy had left nothing undone to put the position in a state of defence. Their cave-shelters contained a narrow-gauge railway, sleeping quarters, and even an officers’ club. Their relief reinforcements were concealed from the French, while their cannon and machine-guns were unceasingly turned on the muddy slopes up which the French laboriously climbed. Unwounded men were drowned in the mud, while many of the wounded could not be rescued in time from the quagmires into which they had fallen.

The victory of Eparges has been described as “a work of giants.” But it was a costly victory. Most of the officers and thousands of men fell. The German losses were at least as heavy as those of the French.

_Return to the Trésauvaux road._ The village of =Trésauvaux=, the ruins of which were organised militarily by the French (_photo, p. 34_), _is reached shortly afterwards_.

_Making rings at the entrance to a dug-out during a lull._]

_Follow I. C. 54 to_ =Fresnes-en-Woëvre=, the houses of which are seen in the distance. _Go through the ruined village_ (_photos, p. 35_). The statue of General Margueritte has been severely damaged, while the church is entirely in ruins.

_Leaving Fresnes, take the Manheulles road (G.C.D. 7) on the left, which joins N. 3, 2½ kms. further on._

_Continue as far as_ =Manheulles=, _where there are numerous military works_, including concrete blockhouses and a German post of commandment _established in the first house on the right at the entrance to the village_. The ground-floor of this house, which appears to be an absolute ruin, is lined throughout with concrete (_photo p. 35_). Several concrete shelters have been added outside, on the front facing Woëvre Plain.

_At the cross-roads, in the middle of the village, stands_ a machine-gun blockhouse, built of concrete (_photo below_).

_From Manheulles return to Fresnes-en-Woëvre._

_Take G.C.D. 10, which passes through the villages of_ Champlon and Hannonville (severely damaged), Thillot, St. Maurice and Billy. _Leave the village of Viéville on the right and, 500 yards further on, take the road which leads up a steep slope to_ =Hattonchâtel.=

_German Machine-Gun Blockhouse of concrete, in the middle of the village, on left of the road._]

Hattonchâtel

Hattonchâtel stands on one of the promontories of the chain of hills which stretches from Verdun to Toul and which separates the Valley of the Meuse from the Plains of the Woëvre. It derives its name from a castle built in the 9th century by Hatton, Bishop of Verdun. The fortress has long been demolished. The church, erected as a collegiate in 1328, but united with the Collegiate Church of Apremont in 1707, remained standing until 1914. Since then it has been damaged by bombardments, especially the apse and north aisle. The little 15th century cloister, crossed by a public road, has suffered relatively little damage.

The church contained the tomb of G. de Haraucourt, Bishop of Verdun (16th century), and a remarkable altar piece. They were carried off by the Germans, but it is hoped that they will be returned.

The altar-screen, dating from 1523, is the earliest work attributed to Ligier Richier (_see p. 57_). It rested on a marble altar shaped like an antique tomb.

This altar-screen, the projecting parts of which were of gold on a blue background, is divided into three sections, separated by pilasters with finely moulded bases.

On the central keystone, in the shape of a shield, are the arms of Duke Antoine of Lorraine. Two medallions between the archivolt and the first projection of the coping represent St. Peter and St. Paul.

The subjects of the three groups are: on the left, the =Carrying of the Cross=; Christ, in a long flowing robe, is in the centre, while behind Him stands Simon the Cyrenian wearing a pointed cap with turned-up edges; around stands a group of three women, two of whom are easily recognized—Mary Magdalene with long hair falling over her shoulders, and Veronica holding the Cloth of the Holy Face. Two executioners complete the scene.

In the centre of the altar-screen is =The Crucifixion.= In the foreground is the swooning Virgin supported by St. John. Kneeling at the foot of the Cross is Mary Magdalene, and opposite her, Stephaton holding the long reed with a sponge dipped in vinegar. Lastly come the three soldiers of Pilate, one of whom carries the spear which pierced Christ’s side. On a pennant held by the second soldier are inscribed the words which affirm the divinity of Christ: “_Vere hic homo filius Dei erat_.”

The third section of the altar-screen represents the =Burial Scene.= In the background is a bishop wearing a mitre, and kneeling at his feet a priest in a surplice. According to custom, the sculptor has here represented the donor, doubtless Gaucher or Gauthier Richeret, Dean of the Collegiate Church, whose initials, “G. R.,” frame the blazoned shield. The bishop is St. Maur, Bishop of Verdun, whose relics belonged to the Collegiate Church.

Unfortunate restorations were carried out in 1764 by Cellier Delatour, whose name appears on the background of the third picture. The date of the work (“A.D. 1.000.500.23.”) is inscribed on each of the curtains of the four pilasters which surround it.

The 18th century pulpit is almost intact.

Behind the church there is a fine view over the Heights of the Meuse towards Apremont.

In the village square is the old guard-house with an arcade, and some old houses, most of which are uninhabitable.

At the end of the village, in the direction of Hattonville, are the ruins of the old château. The cellars served as bomb-proof shelters, the walls being several yards thick.

From the terrace of the château is seen the immense Plain of Woëvre—partly occupied by the Germans from September, 1914.

The Woëvre Plain

The Woëvre forms a district by itself, geologically rather than geographically, and corresponds approximately to the “_pays vabrensis_” of the Merovingians. It lies between the Heights of the Meuse and Moselle. The soil of marl and clay becomes a slough after rain, and numerous pools and hidden sheets of water, known locally as “_gorittis_,” “_noues_,” or “_crachettes_,” make the ground slippery and treacherous.

Here may be followed step by step the stages of the Franco-American offensive of September, 1918 (_see pp. 18–20_), which reduced the whole salient of St. Mihiel, and advanced the lines several kilometres to the out-works of the Forts of Metz, thus placing the Allied forces in strong positions in readiness for the new offensive planned for November 16, which the signing of the Armistice on November 11 prevented from being carried out to overwhelming victory.

_Entrance to concrete shelter near the Church, at the side of the road_.]

_After visiting Hattonchâtel, proceed to_ =Vigneulles= _by a road which describes a large loop_.

_Leaving Hattonchâtel_, a German cemetery _will be seen on the left, beside the village cemetery_.

Vigneulles is a country town of considerable importance, built on the western fringe of the Woëvre Plain, at the foot of the chain of hills which separates the latter from the Valley of the Meuse. In the original plan of mobilisation it was to be the main French Headquarters.

Numerous houses have been destroyed.

_From Vigneulles to St. Mihiel there is a choice of two roads_: one, direct, via Chaillon (_Itinerary A, p. 41_); the other, less direct, passes through Apremont, Brûlé Wood and Ailly Wood, and is much more interesting (_Itinerary B, p. 42_).

A.—From Vigneulles to St. Mihiel, via Chaillon

_At Vigneulles take G.C.D. 10 on the left, 100 yards from the church, and follow it for about 500 yards, then take G.C. 9 on the right, which passes through the village of_ Creüe.

The woods which rise above the village form a kind of curtain, and the Germans, well aware of its importance (the Grand French Manœuvres of 1891 had taken place in this district), seized it at the end of September, 1914, and later built a light railway which formed their main line of communication with St. Mihiel. Hidden in this recess, the railway escaped observation and was worked, with but little damage, throughout the war.

_Leaving Creüe, the road follows the valley through which runs the Creüe Brook._

_Before entering Chaillon, the tourist passes a_ German cemetery _on the right_. Many of the houses in this village, as well as the church, were destroyed.

_This cemetery is in Mouton Wood, between Chaillon and St. Mihiel, on the left of the road when going towards St. Mihiel. One of the monuments represents a lion on a pedestal._]

_After Chaillon the road turns to the right and continues to follow the valley as far as the crossing of I.C. 62. It there climbs to the plateau, leaving the valley, which continues to the right in the direction of_ Spada. This valley is the only one which crosses the Heights of the Meuse in their entire width, uniting the Plain of Woëvre with the river. It is the “Spada Pass,” of immense strategical importance.

_At the top of the slope the wood is entered just beyond a_ military cemetery, _200 yards to the left of the road. Cross_ Mouton Wood, dotted with German graves, shelters, cantonments, etc.

_Leaving the Varvinay road on the left, a 100 yards further on the tourist comes to a_ German cemetery _by the roadside_, with several monuments, one of which represents a lion on a large pedestal.

_Follow the road as far as_ =St. Mihiel.=

B.—From Vigneulles to St. Mihiel, via Apremont, Brûlé Wood and Ailly Wood

_At Vigneulles, 100 yards from the church, take G.C.D. 10 to the left, in the direction of_ Heudicourt.

_One kilometre from Vigneulles are_ several large concrete shelters _to the right and left of the road_. Creüe Wood, _seen on the left of the road, 2 km. further on_, is full of German defence works.

The greatly damaged village of =Heudicourt= is next reached. Numerous houses were destroyed by fire. Beside the cemetery is a German cemetery. _On leaving the village_ there is a stone and concrete blockhouse.

_Beyond Heudicourt, the road passes through_ =Buxières= (ruined houses); =Buxèrulles= (slightly damaged), containing German cemetery; =Woinville= (German cemetery with a monument in the middle (_see photo below_), _on the right, before entering the village_, and a roofless church); =Varnéville=, entirely in ruins. _Leaving the village, the tourist passes_ several concrete shelters and blockhouses.

_One and a half kilometres from Varnéville, G.C.D. 10, crosses G.C.D. 1 bis. Take the latter to the right towards_ Apremont. _800 yards from the fork, after crossing a bridge over the stream, the village of_ _Apremont_ _is reached_.

_Immediately after the bridge there is a_ very comfortable shelter of stone, cement and logs _in a garden, behind a house on the right (the least damaged in the village)_.

Apremont is entirely in ruins. Of the church, only a few broken walls remain. _In the Rue de l’Eglise, fifty yards from the church, to the left, near the end of the village_, is a large concrete shelter, on the wall of which a German machine-gun has been carved (_see photo above_).

_German shelter with drawing of machine-gun on the wall._]

Apremont was a very important place during the war. At this point the road from St. Mihiel to Flirey and Pont-à-Mousson crosses the Vigneulles road, along which the tourist has just come, and which, beyond Apremont, goes down to Fort Gironville after skirting Fort Liouville on the right.

_G.C.D. 1 bis, turns to the right in the village, then mounts a steep slope towards_ =Brûlé Wood.=

_On the right_: a Michelin sign; _in the background_: Hill and Fort of Gironville, Reine Forest and Vignot Wood.]

_The road to St. Mihiel._]

_One kilometre beyond Apremont, in a quarry on the left of the road_, the Germans built a veritable village in concrete and cement, with deep shelters under the rocks. Terraces and flowering plants ornament the houses. The rooms are decorated with carved woodwork and tapestry. The furniture was either taken from the surrounding villages or made in rustic style (_see photo below_). _At the top of this camp, beyond the terrace of the_ Officers’ Mess, a cement staircase leads to a concrete trench which dominates the position in Brûlé Wood. The latter is furrowed with numerous German defence works.

_German village built in the side of the quarries and occupied by the General commanding the sector. Above: Brûlé Wood._]

Brûlé Wood

Lying almost on the edge of the Forest of Apremont, Brûlé Wood commanded the cross-roads on which the village of Apremont stands.

The German trenches were only fifty yards from the French lines at this point. For months, bombs, grenades and rockets made an inferno of the place. The proximity of the respective lines required the utmost precautions, constant watching and listening, with finger on the trigger of the rifle, absolute silence, no sleep and no smoking (smoking might give an objective to the bombers). The nervous tension was so great that the average stay of a battalion was only eight days.

Brûlé Wood was the scene of the sublime rallying call “_Debout les Morts_” (Stand up, ye Dead!)—_see below_.

While early in April, 1915, important attacks were taking place in Ailly Wood, the 95th Infantry Regiment was ordered to create a diversion in Brûlé Wood. On April 5, 6 and 8 bloody fights took place for the possession of a trench. On the morning of the 8th the captured trench was consolidated, and the attacking troops relieved and sent in reserve to the second line.

Suddenly a strong German counter-attack was launched. The new occupants were thrown into confusion and, seized with panic, retreated through the trenches, when _Adjutant Jacques Péricard_, who had taken part in the action the day before but was now in reserve, called for volunteers from his company to face the enemy. The trench was retaken after a prolonged and terrible struggle, in the course of which Péricard, feeling his men wavering and seeing only dead and wounded around, cried “_Debouts les Morts_.”

_Continue up the road._ _Near the crest on the left, in a quarry, are_ several concrete defence works which communicate with one another.

_The crossing of Strategic I.C. 3 is next reached. Here leave the car and take the road to the left towards_ =Marbotte.= _400 yards further on_ the German first line trenches, built entirely in concrete with numerous shelters and blockhouses, _are reached_. _This is the crest of the_ “=Tête-à-Vache=” position, which for so long formed a salient in the French lines. All the soldiers knew it because, when passing through the trenches on a level with this salient, it was necessary to stoop to avoid being seen by an observer at his loop-hole. Woe to the curious or the careless who risked walking upright past this point! The ever-ready automatic spoke at once.

_A 100 yards beyond are the_ French first line trenches (equipments and soldiers’ graves). All the ground here is torn up, and the woods are completely destroyed.

_Return to G.C.D. 1 bis, and follow it in the direction of St. Mihiel. All along the road are_ numerous military works of all kinds, _especially across Ailly Wood_.

Ailly Wood

Ailly Wood covers the brow of the hill, the southern slopes of which descend steeply towards a ravine.

Here the attacks took place which, between April 5 and 13, 1915, gave the French definite mastery of the position. The Germans held one corner of the wood and the outskirts at the foot of the slopes. The French trenches followed the ravine, mounted half-way up the unwooded part of the hill, and ran alongside the wood. The entrenchment, known as the “_Le Fortin_,” was in the corner. In the wood the German trenches rose in three tiers, linked together by narrow trenches. At certain points the Germans had constructed “_chevaux-de-frise_,” twelve yards deep by two yards high.