Chapter II: Preface (2)
CUT the tails into joints, and blanch and wash them; then braise them till tender, drain them dry, and serve them up with haricot sauce over.
_Haricot Sauce._
TAKE clean turnips and carrots, and scoop or cut them into shapes, some celery heads cut about two inches long, button onions peeled, some dry or green morells, and artichoke bottoms cut into pieces. Let them all be blanched in separate stewpans till three parts done; then drain and put them all together with some small mushrooms stewed, and a good cullis well-seasoned, and simmer the vegetables till done.
_Beef Collops._
TAKE the fillet from the under part of a rump of beef, cut it into small thin slices, and fry them till three parts done; then add to them slices of pickle cucumbers, small mushrooms stewed, blanched oysters, some good-seasoned cullis, and stew them till tender.
_Fillet of Beef larded._
TAKE a fillet or piece of a rump, force it and lard it with bacon, turn it round like a fillet of veal, roast it, glaize the top, and serve it up with the following sauce made with cullis, lemon pickle, and ketchup; add likewise some scalded celery heads and button onions; then stew till tender, and put the sauce round the beef.
_Beef Pallets._
SCALD and scale the pallets clean, and boil them till tender; when cool roll them up with forcemeat in the middle, and tie them with thread; braise them as white as possible and serve them up with a sauce made of ham, breast of fowl, pickle cucumbers, omlets of eggs, and good-seasoned cullis or benshamelle.
N. B. The ham, &c. are to be cut in the form of dice, and the omlets made as omlets for garnishing.
_Rump of Beef a-la-daube, or braised._
BONE a rump of beef and daub it with slips of fat bacon, seasoned with sweet herbs, eschallots, beaten spices, pepper, and salt. Bind it round with packthread, and braise it till tender; then wipe it dry, glaize the top, and serve it up with the sauce round. Either Spanish onion sauce, or savoy, haricot, or ashée sauce may be used.
N. B. It may be served with the sauce either plain or daubed.
_To make Spanish Onion Sauce._
BRAISE six Spanish onions with the beef till three parts done; then peel them, and add some good cullis, seasoned with cayenne pepper, salt, lemon juice, and a little sifted lump sugar, and stew them till tender.
_Savoy Sauce._
CUT some savoys in quarters, blanch them, and then tie them round and braise them with the beef till half done. Take them out of the liquor, cut off the string, and put them into a stewpan with good strong cullis, and simmer them till tender.
_Ashée Sauce._
TAKE some pickle cucumbers chopped small, then capers, parsley, eschallots, breast of a fowl, lean of ham, carrots, and yolks and whites of eggs. Then add to them a good-seasoned cullis and a little mushroom ketchup. Simmer all together a quarter of an hour.
N. B. The ham, fowl, egg, and carrot to be boiled before they are chopped.
_Brisket of Beef with Spanish Onions._
TO be done in the same manner as the rump, but not to be daubed with bacon.
_Brisket of Beef with Ashée or Haricot._
TO be done in the same manner as the preceding.
_Rump of Beef a-la mode._
BONE the rump, daub it with slips of fat bacon seasoned with sweet herbs, beaten spices, and pepper and salt. Bind it round with packthread, put it into a braising pan, cover it with some veal stock, make it boil, skim it, and add a pint of red port, some onions, turnips, celery, a few bay leaves, garlick, champignons, a few whole allspice, and a little mace. Let it stew till nearly done; then take it out of the liquor, cut off the strings, wipe it dry, and put it into a clean stewpan. Then strain the liquor, skim the fat off clean, season with cayenne, salt, a gill of vinegar, lemon pickle, and a small quantity of juice of lemon; add a little colour, clear it with whites of eggs, and strain it through a tamis cloth to the beef. Stew it gently till done, and serve it up in a deep dish.
N. B. To the liquor, when cleared with eggs and strained, may be added some passing of flour and butter, by way of thickening, if approved. The reason for clearing the liquor is, that it will make it appear bright either thickened or plain.
_Baked Beef._
BONE a leg of beef, wash it clean, chop plenty of parsley, a middling quantity of thyme, eschallots, marjoram, savory, and a little basil. Then mix them together, and add a small quantity of beaten allspice, mace, cloves, pepper, and salt. Rub the beef well with the ingredients, set it in an earthen pan, put to it a gill of vinegar, half a pint of red port, eight middling-sized whole onions peeled, two bay leaves, a few fresh or dried champignons. Let the meat remain till next day; then add a sufficient quantity of water to it, cover the pan close, and bake the meat till tender.
_Marrow Bones._
CHOP the bones at each end so as to stand steady; then wash them clean, saw them in halves, set them upright in a saucepan with water, and boil them two hours. Serve them up very hot, and with fresh toasted bread.
_Mutton Rumps marinated._
CLEAN and cut the rumps of an equal length, and lay them in a pan and the marinate liquor for a whole night; then pass them in butter till nearly done. Lay them on a dish to cool, wash them over with yolk of egg, and breadcrumb them. Fry them gently in boiling lard till done, and of a nice colour. Drain them dry, and serve them up with a very good-seasoned cullis sauce and ketchup in it.
N. B. In the same manner may be done mutton steaks.
_To make Marinate._
TAKE a little gravy, vinegar, salt, whole black pepper, a few bay leaves, onions sliced, a clove of garlick, and a little thyme. Boil all together and strain it.
_Haricot Mutton Cutlets._
CUT a loin or best end of a neck of mutton into steaks, trim them neat, and fry them till three parts done, and of a nice colour. Put them into a stewpan, add a little liquor to preserve them from burning, and simmer till tender. Lay the steaks round in a dish, and serve them up with haricot sauce over.
N. B. The essence that the steaks were stewed in to be strained, skimmed clean from fat, and added to the sauce.
_Fillet of Mutton with Cucumbers._
TAKE the best end of a neck of mutton, cut off the under bone, leaving the long ones on; then trim it neat, lard it, or let it remain plain; roast it gently, glaize it, and serve it up with cucumber sauce under.
_Stewed Cucumbers._
TAKE fresh gathered cucumbers, pare them, cut them into shapes if seedy, or slices if young. Put them into a stewpan, and add a little salt, vinegar, and an onion. Simmer them over a fire till nearly done and the liquor reduced, or fry them with a bit of fresh butter, and add a good strong cullis. Let the cucumbers stew till done, and serve them up with the mutton, which may be roasted with larding (or plain).
N. B. The cucumbers may be served as an entrée of itself, and fried bread put round them.
_Mutton Cutlets with Potatoes._
CUT a loin of mutton into steaks, beat them with a chopper, and trim them neat. Pass them in sweet herbs, eschallots, pepper, salt, and lemon juice. When nearly done, lay them on a dish till almost cool, and then egg, breadcrumb, and fry them in boiling lard till of a light brown colour. Place the steaks round in a dish, leaving a cavity in the center, which is to be filled up with potatoes, and the sauce under the steaks.
N. B. The potatoes to be peeled, scooped, or cut into shapes. Then fry them of a light colour, and put them before the fire till wanted; and add to the sauce the steaks were passed in, a little cullis and ketchup; then strain and reduce it almost to a glaize.
_Mutton Cutlets a la Maintenon._
GET the best end of a loin of mutton, take off the under bone, and cut it into chops; beat them, and trim them neat; then add to them a bit of fresh butter, chopped parsley, thyme, eschallots, pepper, salt, a little pounded mace, and lemon juice. Pass them till nearly done; then lay them on a dish, pour the liquor over the chops, and, when nearly cool, breadcrumb, and put them separately in oiled white paper; fold them up, broil them over a slow fire, and serve them up with hot poivrade sauce in a boat.
N. B. See _Poivrade Sauce_ receipt.
_Cutlets a la Irish Stew._
GET the best end of a neck of mutton, take off the under bone, and cut it into chops; season them with pepper, salt, a little mushroom powder, and beaten mace. Put them into a stewpan, add a large onion sliced, some parsley and thyme tied in a bunch, and a pint of veal broth. Simmer the chops till three parts done, then add some whole potatoes peeled, and let them stew till done. Serve it up in a deep dish.
N. B. Let the parsley and thyme be taken out when the stew is to be served up.
_Pork Cutlets with Red or White Cabbage._
TAKE a piece of back pork, cut it into chops, beat and trim them, season with pepper and salt, broil them gently till done and of a light brown colour. Serve them up with stewed red or white cabbage under.
_To stew Cabbage._
CUT the cabbage into slips, and blanch and drain them dry. Put them into a stewpan, with a bit of fresh butter, pepper, salt, an onion, some vinegar, half a pint of veal broth, and a little allspice tied in a cloth. Stew the cabbage gently till done and the liquor nearly reduced, and then take the spice and onion out.
_Pork Cutlets with Robert Sauce._
GET a piece of back pork, or the best end of a loin, and take off the under bone; then cut the chops neat, season with pepper and salt, broil them gently, and serve them up with the sauce underneath.
_To make Robert Sauce._
TAKE some cullis, a bay leaf, an onion sliced, a blade of mace, a little mustard, and a gill of rhenish wine. Boil all together a quarter of an hour, strain it, and reduce it nearly to a glaize.
_Pork Cutlets another way._
TRIM the chops neat as above, pass them with a bit of fresh butter, chopped eschallots, pepper, salt, and a little lemon juice. When nearly done, breadcrumb and broil them till of a light brown colour. Serve them up with the following sauce placed underneath; that is to say, cullis, mushroom, ketchup, lemon pickle, and mustard, a little of each, and reduce nearly to a glaize.
_Fillet of Pork roasted._
TAKE a piece of back pork, cut the chine bone from the under part, and lay it in a marinate all night. When it is to be roasted run a lark spit through, tie it on another spit, cover it with paper, and roast it gently; and when to be served up, if not coloured enough, glaize it lightly, and put some robert sauce underneath.
_Pigs Feet and Ears._
TAKE prepared feet and pass them, with chopped parsley, thyme, eschallots, pepper, salt, and lemon juice. When done, breadcrumb and broil them gently. Let the ears be cut in slices, and add cullis well-seasoned; then stew them for ten minutes, and serve them up with the feet over.
_To prepare Pigs Feet and Ears._
SCALD and clean them; then split the feet and tie them round with packthread; put them in a pot covered with water; make it boil, skim it clean, and add a little garlick, thyme, eschallots, onions, bay leaves, whole black pepper, allspice, mace, salt, and udder of veal. Braise them till tender, and put them in an earthen pan for use.
_Compotte of Pigeons._
CUT off the pinions, draw the legs in close, colour the breast in boiling hot lard, and then blanch and wash them; which done, put them in a stewpan, add a little veal broth, and simmer them gently till nearly done, and then make a ragout of blanched sweetbreads, button mushrooms, truffles, morells, artichoke bottoms, egg balls, cullis, and the liquor of the pigeons strained, and season well to the palate. Let the ingredients stew for ten minutes, then add them to the pigeons, and serve up all together in a deep dish.
_Pigeons a la Craupidine._
CUT off the pinions, draw in the legs, cut the breast so as to lay back, then pass them with sweet herbs, mushrooms, eschallots chopped fine, a little fresh butter, grated nutmeg, lemon juice, pepper, and salt. Let them simmer till nearly done; then lay them on a dish, and when nearly cool, egg with yolk of eggs, and strew them with crumbs of bread rubbed through a fine hair sieve. Fry them of a light colour in boiling hot lard (or broil them). Serve them up with a good cullis and sharp sauce underneath.
_Pigeons glaized._
PUT some good-seasoned forcemeat in the pigeons, cut off the pinions, lay back the legs, blanch them, and roast them gently with vine leaves and bards of fat bacon over them. When they are to be served up glaize the top part, and serve them with cullis sauce, or celery heads, or asparagus tops, &c. under them.
_Pigeons a la Sousell._
BONE the legs and wings of four pigeons and draw them in; then fill them with a high-seasoned forcemeat, and braise them in a half pint of veal stock. When done enough, take the pigeons out, wipe them dry, glaize the top, and serve them up with stewed sorrel underneath.
N. B. The liquor they were braised in to be strained, skimmed free from fat, and reduced almost to a glaize, and added to the sorrel. (Or they may, when three parts done, be wiped dry, egged and breadcrumbed over, then fried in boiling lard, and served up with sorrel sauce underneath as above).
_Hashed Calf's Head._
TAKE a head, without the scalp, chopped in half; wash and blanch it, peel the tongue, cut it in slices, and likewise the meat from the head. Add blanched morells and truffles, egg and forcemeat balls, stewed mushrooms, artichoke bottoms, and well-seasoned cullis. Let the meat stew gently till nearly done, and then add slices of throat sweetbreads. When it is to be served up, put round the hash the brains and rashers of bacon; and, if approved, half the head to be put on the top, which is to be prepared thus:--One half of the head when blanched to be done over with yolk of raw egg; then season with pepper and salt, strew with fine breadcrumbs, bake till very tender, and colour with a salamander if requisite. The brains to be egged and rolled in breadcrumbs, and fried in boiling lard. The rashers of bacon to be broiled.
_Breast of Veal en Gallentine._
BONE the veal and lay a light forcemeat over it, and upon that some slips of lean ham, pickle cucumbers, fat bacon, and omlets of eggs white and yellow. Roll it up tight in a cloth, tie each end, and braise it till tender. When it is to be served up, take it out of the cloth, wipe it dry, and glaize the top; then put under it stewed sorrel or stewed celery heads, or ragout.
_Breast of Veal Ragout._
TAKE off the under bone and cut the breast in half, lengthways; then cut them in middling-sized pieces, fry them in a little lard till of a light brown colour, wipe them dry, put them into a stewpan with half a pint of veal stock, simmer them till nearly done and the liquor almost reduced; then add blanched morell, truffles, slices of throat sweetbread, egg balls, artichoke bottoms, a little ketchup, and some cullis; season to the palate with cayenne pepper and salt, and a little lemon juice. Let all stew together till done.
_Neck of Veal en Erison._
CUT off the scragg and the under chine bone, then lay a light forcemeat on the top of the veal about half the way, and wash it with whites of eggs with a paste brush, and work a sprig or any other device as fancy directs, with pickle cucumber, ham, breast of fowl, omlets of eggs white and yellow, boiled carrots, and some capers. Put the veal into a stewpan, add a little stock, and stew it gently till tender, taking care the ornament is not disturbed. When it is to be served up glaize the plain part, and put under a cullis sauce with asparagus or peas.
N. B. In the same manner may be done heart sweetbreads.
_Neck of Veal larded._
TAKE off the under bone of a neck of veal, leave only a part of the long bones on; trim it neat, lard it, and roast it gently with a veal caul over. Ten minutes before it is done take off the caul, and let the veal be of a very light colour. When it is to be served up glaize it, and put under some sorrel sauce, celery heads, or asparagus tops.
_Veal Cutlets larded._
CUT the best end of a neck of veal into chops, leaving only a part of the long bone; then lard, blanch, and braise them; and when they are to be served up, drain, dry, glaize, and place them round each other in a dish, and put green truffle sauce, or white mushroom sauce, in the center.
_Loin of Veal a la Cream._
TAKE the best end of a loin of veal, joint it, and cut a little of the suet from the kidney; cause it to lay flat, and then make an incision in the center of the top part about three inches deep and six inches long. Take the piece out, chop it, add to it the suet or beef marrow, parsley, thyme, green truffles, mushrooms, eschallots, lemon peel, chopped very fine, and season it with pepper and salt, and a little beaten spice. Put all together into a marble mortar, add the yolks of two eggs, and a little french bread soaked in cream; then pound the ingredients well, and fill the cavity with the forcemeat, and cover it with a piece of veal caul; after which tie it down close and cover the whole with a large piece of caul, roast it gently, and when it is to be served up, take off the large piece of caul, let it colour a little, glaize it lightly, and put under it a benshamelle or a ragout of sweetbreads, &c.
N. B. In the same manner may be done a fillet of veal instead of plain stuffing.
_Veal Tendrons (brown or white)._
TAKE a breast of white veal, cut off the under bone and the top skin; then cut it into three long slips, and the slips again into pieces of two inches thick; blanch and put them into a stewpan, then add a little water, bards of bacon, and slices of lemon. Braise them till tender, drain them dry, and serve them up with green truffle sauce, or celery, asparagus, or peas. The sauce to be served over the veal.
_Celery Sauce, (white), for Veal, Chickens, Turkies, &c._
CUT celery heads three inches long, trim them, wash and blanch them, drain them dry, add a little stock, boil them till nearly done, and the liquor almost reduced; then put to them some benshamelle, and, if approved, five minutes before the sauce is put over the meat or poultry, add a leason of two yolks of eggs and cream.
_Celery Sauce, (brown,) for Pullets, &c._
DRESS celery heads as above, but instead of benshamelle add a good cullis only.
N. B. The above sauces may be served up in dishes with fried bread round the celery heads, as an entrée of itself.
_Veal Cutlets au natural._
CUT the best end of a neck of veal into chops, trim off the bone, pass the steaks with a bit of fresh butter, chopped parsley, thyme, and eschallots, and season with pepper, salt, and lemon juice. When nearly done, lay them on a dish with the liquor; and when cool, egg, breadcrumb, and broil them gently. Serve them up placed round each other, with a sauce in the center made with cullis, a little ketchup, lemon pickle, and artichoke bottoms cut into pieces.
_Veal Collops (brown)._
CUT veal cutlets (taken from the fillet) into small thin pieces, and fry them in a little boiling lard till of a light brown colour. Drain them dry, put them into a stewpan, add cullis, stewed mushrooms, some blanched truffles, morells, pieces of artichoke bottoms, some slices of throat sweetbreads, and egg balls. Let them simmer over a slow fire till tender, season to the palate, and serve them up with rashers of broiled bacon round them.
_Veal Collops (white)._
CUT the collops as for brown, but instead of frying, put them into a stewpan with a bit of fresh butter, a little lemon juice, and a blade of mace. Simmer them till nearly done, then strain the liquor to some benshamelle, and add the collops with some slices of throat sweetbreads, some cocks combs blanched, egg balls, pieces of artichoke bottoms, and stewed white mushrooms. Let them stew gently, season to the palate with salt, and make the sauce of a sufficient thickness to adhere to the ingredients.
N. B. Five minutes before the collops are to be served up a leason may be added of eggs and cream.
_Fricando Veal._
CUT off a long or round piece of veal from the leg, beat it flat with a chopper, and make an incision in the under part. Put into it a little light forcemeat, sew it up, lard the top part with pieces of fat bacon very neat, blanch it, put it into a stewpan with a little stock, and cover it close; then let it stew till very tender, and the liquor nearly reduced. When it is to be served up glaize the larding, and put stewed sorrel under.
N. B. The forcemeat, if not approved, may be omitted; and instead of only one piece of veal, three or four small pieces may be served on a dish.
_Sorrel Sauce._
WASH clean, squeeze and chop fine, plenty of sorrel, and put it into a stewpan with a bit of fresh butter; stew it till the liquor is almost reduced, and then add a little strong cullis. Let the sauce be of a good thickness.
_Veal Olives._
CUT thin bards of fat bacon of six inches long and four broad, lay upon them very thin slices of veal of the same dimensions, wash the veal with yolk of egg, and put upon it some light forcemeat. Then roll them up, run a lark spit through sideway of each olive, tie a string over them to prevent their falling off, trim each end with a sharp knife, roast them gently, and froth and serve them up with a cullis sauce under
_Breast of Veal with Oysters._
CUT off the under bone of a breast of white veal, and the skin from the top; then blanch and braise it, or roast it gently till very tender with a veal caul over. When it is to be served up take off the caul, glaize the top of the breast, and put round it white oyster sauce. (See receipt for _Oyster Sauce_.)
_Lamb's Head minced._
CHOP the head in halves, and blanch it with the liver, heart, and lights. Then chop the heart, &c. and add to them a little parsley chopped very fine, a small quantity of shredded lemon peel, and some cullis; then stew it gently till done, and season to the palate. Wash the head over with yolk of egg, season it with pepper and salt, strew fine breadcrumbs over, and bake it gently till very tender. When it is to be served up, colour it with a salamander, put the mince under, and the brains fried round it, with rashers of broiled bacon.
N. B. To prepare the brains, clean them in warm water, wipe them dry, dip them in yolk of egg, breadcrumb, and fry them in boiling lard.
_Breast of Lamb with Benshamelle._
TAKE off the under bone, then blanch and put it into a stewpan, with parsley, thyme, and eschallots, chopped very fine, a bit of fresh butter, pepper, salt, a little essence of anchovie, and lemon juice. Let it simmer over a slow fire till nearly done; then lay it on a dish, and, when almost cool, egg and breadcrumb it, broil it over a slow clear fire till tender, and let it be of a nice brown colour. Serve it up with a benshamelle sauce under.
_Breast or Tendrons of Lamb en Matelote._
CUT the breast into two long slips, trim off the bone and skin, cut them into small pieces, blanch and boil them in a little stock and lemon juice. When nearly done, add peeled and half-boiled button onions, pieces of pickle cucumber cut of the same size, a few button mushrooms stewed, some slices of throat sweetbreads, blanched omlet of egg (the same kind as for garnishing) cut into pieces the form of dice, and lean ham cut in the same manner; then add a cullis or benshamelle. When it is to be served up, put sippets of fried bread round.
_Breast of Lamb with Peas._
CUT off the under bone, and then blanch and braise it. When it is to be served up, glaize the top and put the stewed peas under.
_To stew Peas for Sauce: for Lamb, Veal, Chickens, &c._
TO a quart of shelled young green peas add two ounces of fresh butter, a very little sifted sugar, and some salt. Put them into a stewpan, cover it close, simmer the peas till nearly done, then add some good-seasoned cullis, and stew them till tender.
_Lamb Cutlets with Cucumbers._
TAKE the bone from a loin of lamb, cut it into chops, beat them flat with a chopper, and trim off some of the fat. Pass them with a piece of fresh butter, chopped parsley, thyme, eschallots, lemon juice, and pepper and salt. When three parts done, put them on a dish, and, when nearly cool, egg, breadcrumb, and fry them in boiling lard till of a light brown colour. Drain them dry, place them round each other in the dish, and serve them up with the cucumber sauce in the center.
N. B. In the same manner may be done mutton and veal cutlets.
_Neck of Lamb glaized._
CUT the scragg and the chine bone from a neck of house lamb; then take off the skin, trim part of the fat away to lard the neck lengthways, blanch it, and braise or roast it gently with a veal caul over. When it is to be served up, glaize the larding, and put round it white onion sauce made thus:
_Onion Sauce._
TAKE boiled onions, rub them through a hair sieve; then add to them fresh butter, cream, flour, salt, a very little of each, and let it stew five minutes.
_Lamb Cutlets with Tendrons._
CUT a neck of house lamb into chops, leaving only the long bone; then beat them flat, and pass them with parsley, thyme, eschallots, chopped very fine, and add a little lemon juice, mushroom powder, pepper, and salt. When they are three parts done lay them on a dish, and when half cold breadcrumb them and broil them on a stewpan cover over a slow fire with a bit of fresh butter. When they are to be served up, put in the center of the dish some braised tendrons of the breast of lamb, and round them the cutlets, and turnip sauce over the center.
_Turnip Sauce._
PARE four turnips, sweat them with a little water till they are done and the liquor reduced, then rub them through a tamis sieve. Add to them a small quantity of benshamelle, and then cut some more turnips in shapes as for a haricot. Sweat them in the like manner, and add the benshamelle to them.
_Lamb Cutlets with Tendrons another way._
THE tendrons may be served in the center of the dish, with the cutlets larded, braised, and glaized, to go round them; and the sauce made in the same manner, but instead of benshamelle add cullis.
_Shoulder of Lamb glaized._
BONE a shoulder of house lamb, then season it with pepper, salt, mushroom powder, and beaten spice; fill the cavity with some light forcemeat; sew it up, and make it in the form of a leg of lamb; after which blanch it, and braise in a little stock and bards of fat bacon. When it is done wipe it dry, glaize it, and serve it up with sorrel sauce under; or a strong cullis sauce with a little tarragon of vinegar in it.
_Shoulder of Lamb en Epigram._
ROAST a shoulder of lamb till three parts done, and let it stand till cold; then take the blade-bone out with the meat, leaving only the skin whole in the form of a fan. Cut the meat into slips, add to it parsley, thyme, eschallots, and mushrooms, chopped fine, some good-seasoned cullis, and a little lemon pickle. Let it stew gently for a quarter of an hour; and let the fan of the shoulder and the blade bone be broiled, and served up over the stew.
_Shoulder of Lamb grilled._
ROAST it till three parts done, then score it with chequers, season with pepper and salt, and grill it gently till done. Let it be of a light brown colour, and serve it up with a sauce over it made with cullis, ketchup, lemon juice, and a bit of fresh butter.
_Hind Quarter of Lamb marinated._
BONE the leg, fill the cavity with a light forcemeat well-seasoned, sew it up and lard the top part of the quarter with slips of fat bacon. When done, take a quart of veal stock, half a gill of vinegar, whole black pepper, some salt, two bay leaves, three onions cut in pieces, a little garlick, and half a pint of rhenish wine. Boil all the ingredients together a quarter of an hour, put the lamb into a deep dish, and strain the liquor to it. Let it lay five or six hours, turn it several times, then roast the lamb gently with a veal caul over it. When it is nearly done, let it colour a little and glaize the top. Serve it up with a sauce under it, made with the above liquor boiled down almost to a glaize, with some cullis added.
N. B. In the same manner may be done a shoulder or leg of lamb.
_Hind Quarter of Lamb with Spinach._
BOIL the leg, preserve it as white as possible, serve it up with spinach under, and the steaks round it very hot. The loin to be cut into chops, and seasoned with pepper and salt; then fried or broiled. Pick and boil the spinach till nearly done; then strain and squeeze it dry, chop it, and add a little piece of fresh butter, pepper, and salt, a little cullis or cream, and let it stew for five minutes.
N. B. The spinach may be served up as a dish with fried bread round it.
_Leg of Lamb with Oysters._
BONE the leg, fill the cavity with light forcemeat, and some blanched and bearded oysters pounded with it. Sew it up, put over it slices of lemon, salt, bards of fat bacon, and paper. Roast it gently, and when it is to be served up, glaize it, and put a sauce round it made with oysters blanched and bearded, stewed mushrooms, boiled button onions, some cullis, and the oyster liquor they were blanched in. Season to the palate with cayenne and lemon juice.
_Currie._
CUT two young chickens into pieces, and blanch and drain them dry; then put them into a stewpan with two table spoonfuls of currie powder and a gill of veal stock, and stew them gently till half done. Then cut into slices three middling-sized onions, and put them into a stewpan with a table spoonful of currie powder, a quart of veal stock, two ounces of jordan almonds blanched and pounded fine, and boil till the onions are tender; then rub it through a tamis sieve to the chicken, and season to the palate with cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon or tamarind juice. Let the chickens stew till three parts done, then pour the liquor into another stewpan, and add three ounces of fresh butter, a very little flour and water, and reduce it to three gills. Strain it through a tamis sieve to the chickens, and let them simmer till tender.
N. B. Rabbits may be done in the same manner.
_Plain Rice to be eaten with Currie._
PICK one pound of rice, and wash it very clean; then have ready some boiling water and put the rice in. Let it simmer till three parts done, and strain and wash it in several waters till free from slime. Drain it in a large hair sieve, and when dry put it into a stewpan with some paper and the cover over it. Set it in a moderate oven for one hour and a half, or longer, if there be a greater quantity.
_Currie of Lobster._
BOIL lobsters till three parts done, and pick and cut the claws and tails into good-sized pieces; then add currie powder, and proceed with the same directions as with the chickens, only pound the body of the lobsters and spawn, if any, and add them to the almonds and other ingredients.
_Currie of Veal._
CUT a piece of breast of veal into tendrons, and fry them in a little lard till of a light colour; then drain them dry, add currie powder, and proceed with the same directions as for chicken currie.
_Currie of Mutton._
TAKE three pounds of the best end of a loin of mutton, cut off the bone and some of the fat; then cut the meat into small square pieces, fry them, and proceed with the same directions as for veal.
_Pig's Head Currie._
TAKE a young porker's head, cleave it in half, blanch and wash it, then cut it into small thick pieces, fry them, and dress in the same manner as veal and mutton; only omit the fresh butter, as there will be a sufficient quantity of fat.
_Directions for roasting._
OBSERVE that in roasting it requires a good quick fire, but not too strong, and the meats should be well-jointed, trimmed neat, and covered with paper to preserve it from being too high a colour. Beef and mutton should not be done too much; veal, pork, and lamb, should be done well; and some little time before it is to be served up, take the paper off, sprinkle the meat with salt, and when of a proper colour, froth it with butter and flour. Large poultry to be papered and done in the same manner; but small poultry, such as chickens, woodcocks, rabbits, wild fowls, &c. will not require papering. The time the several articles will take roasting depends upon a little practice, as the weather and the different strengths of fires make a material alteration. I have given directions for some particular roasts which require a preparation; as for others which are served with sauces, they may be found under their respective heads: and for the trimmings of meat, &c. I have wrote a receipt to make into soup, or they may be put into the beef stock pot.
_Soup for a Family._
CUT the particles of meat from the trimmings of different joints, as beef, mutton, veal, pork, &c. and when done put the bones into a pot, cover with water, and boil them till the goodness is extracted. Then strain the liquor, wash the trimmings of the vegetables, such as turnips, carrots, onions, leeks, celery, and a little cabbage. Cut all small, put them into a pot with the above liquor and some split peas; boil till the peas are tender, add a little dry mint, and rub it through a tamis cloth or sieve. Then season the meat with pepper and salt, sweated down till three parts tender, and add the pulp. Boil all together till the meat is done, skim it and serve it up with fried bread in the form of dice.
_To prepare a Haunch of Venison, or Mutton, for roasting._
TAKE great care the venison is well hung and good. Wipe it, take the skin from the top part, and put butter and plenty of salt over it; then put paste confined on with four or five sheets of paper braced with packthread. Roast it gently, and ten minutes before it is done, take off the paper, let it colour gradually, and froth it with flour and butter. Serve up with the venison warm currant jelly in a boat, and some good gravy with a little red port in it in another sauce boat.
_To roast Woodcocks or Snipes._
TAKE out the trail, then roast the birds, and ten minutes before they are done bake a toast, put the trail into a stewpan, with a little cullis and fresh butter, and boil them together. When the woodcocks are to be served up put the sauce over the toast, and the woodcocks upon it.
N. B. If the woodcocks are thin roast them with a bard of bacon over.
_To roast Larks._
TAKE the entrails out of the birds, wash and wipe them dry, put them upon a lark spit, with small thin slices of fat bacon and a piece of a vine or green sage leaf between each, if approved; and while roasting, put over them crumbs of bread, or roast them plain. When they are done, serve them up with fried breadcrumbs round them, and melted butter in a sauce boat.
_To fry Breadcrumbs._
RUB crumbs of bread through a hair sieve, have ready a clean frying pan, put them into it with a piece of fresh butter, set them over a moderate fire, keep stirring with a wooden spoon till they are of a light brown colour, and put them upon a plate.
_Turkeys._
TO be roasted with a stuffing in the breast, and served with bread sauce in a boat.
_Rabbits._
TO be roasted either plain, or a stuffing, with the liver chopped in it, put into the belly, and served up with parsley and butter in a boat.
_Hares._
TO be dressed in the same manner as rabbits, with stuffing; but served up with cullis and fresh butter put over, and warm currant jelly in a sauce boat.
_Hare roasted another way._
STUFF as above, and while roasting drudge it with flour, baste it with milk, and so alternately till a quarter of an hour before the hare is done; then baste it with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter put into the dripping pan. Serve it up with a cullis sauce and butter put over, and currant jelly in a sauce boat.
N. B. Baste it repeatedly, as there must be a good crust over. It will require three pints of warm milk for that purpose.
_Pigeons._
MAY be roasted with a little stuffing in them, or plain; and served up with parsley and butter.
_Quails, or Ruffs and Rees._
TO be roasted with bards of bacon and vine leaves over them, with sauce in a boat made with cullis and red port in it.
_Guinea Fowls, Pea Fowls, Pullets, Chickens, and Turkey Poults._
TO be roasted either larded or plain, and served up with gravy under, and bread and egg sauces in separate boats.
_Wild Fowl._
TO be roasted plain, not done too much, and served up with onion sauce in a boat; as also a small quantity of gravy and red port boiled together.
_Partridges and Pheasants._
TO be roasted plain, and served up with poivrade sauce hot, and bread sauce in boats.
_Green Geese and Ducklings._
TO be roasted with pepper and salt put in the bellies, and served with green sauce in a boat.
_Other Geese and tame Ducks._
TO be roasted with onion and sage chopped fine, seasoned with pepper and salt put into the inside, and served up with apple sauce in a boat.
_To roast a Pig._
MAKE a stuffing with chopped sage, two eschallots, two eggs, breadcrumbs, and fresh butter, and season with pepper and salt; put it into the belly, sew it up, spit it, and rub it over with a paste brush dipped in sweet oil. Roast it gently, and when done cut off the head; then cut the body and the head in halves, lay them on a dish, put the stuffing with the brains into a stewpan, add to them some good gravy, make it boil, and serve up the pig with the sauce under it.
_To roast Sweetbreads._
BLANCH heart sweetbreads till half done, then wash and wipe them dry, cut off some of the pipe, put yolk of eggs on the tops with a paste brush, and strew fine breadcrumbs over. Roast them gently till done and of a nice colour, serve them up with a toast under and melted butter poured over, together with some cullis sauce round.
_To roast Ribs of Beef._
BONE the beef, roll it round like a fillet of veal, put a good stuffing in the center, bind it tight, roast it gently, and serve it up with brown oyster sauce round it.
_Fillet of Veal._
TO be done in the same manner as the above, with white oyster or cullis sauce round.
_Observations on Meat and Poultry._
MEATS to be preferred when of a good fatness and the lean appears juicy, but not particularly streaked with fat, as it then frequently happens to eat hard. When the season will permit let it hang for a week, and not more, as I have found that period bring it to its best state. Poultry, likewise, should be chosen tolerably fat and of a soft grain. Let them hang three or four days, which will add to their better eating; except woodcocks, snipes, larks, or pigs, which should be dressed fresh. Be particular that the poultry are trussed very neat.
_Stuffing for Turkies, Hares, Veal, &c._
CHOP very fine beef suet, parsley, thyme, eschallots, a very small quantity of marjoram, savory, basil, and lemon peel, with grated nutmeg, two eggs (or milk), pepper, salt, and an anchovie chopped (if approved). Mix all well together.
_Gravy for Roast Meat, Steaks, and Poultry._
CUT slices of chuck beef, veal, and lean ham; pare onions, turnips, a carrot, and cut them with celery; then add a bunch of parsley and thyme, a few whole pepper, and a little mace. Put all the ingredients into a stewpan, set them over a moderate fire, sweat down till the liquor becomes of a light brown colour, and be careful not to let it burn. Discharge it with water or beef stock, season to the palate with salt, and, if required, add a little liquid of colour. Let it simmer till the meat is perfectly done, skim it free from fat, and strain it through a tamis cloth.
_Peloe of Rice._
WASH, pick, and dress, in the same manner as the directions for plain rice, observing only, that, before it is to be set in the oven, add a little pounded mace with the rice; and put into a stewpan a chicken half boiled and a piece of pickle pork three parts boiled, and cover with the rice. When it is to be served up, put the fowl and pork at the bottom of the dish, the rice over, and garnish with boiled or fried button onions and halves of hard eggs, which should be hot.
_Peloe of Rice another way._
WASH and pick two pounds of rice, boil it in plenty of water till half done, with a dozen of whole cardamum seeds; then drain it, pick out the seeds, put the rice into a stewpan, with three quarters of a pound of fresh butter and some pounded mace, and salt to the palate. Take a loin of house lamb or some fresh pork cut into small pieces; put them into a frying-pan, add cinnamon, cloves, cummin and cardamum seeds, a small quantity of each pounded and sifted, with a bit of butter and some cayenne pepper, and fry the meat till half done. Then take two bay leaves, four good-sized onions sliced, and add to them a pint and a half of veal stock. Boil them till tender and rub them through a tamis cloth or sieve; then boil the liquor over a fire till it is reduced to half a pint, add it to the fried meat and spices, together with some peeled button onions boiled. Then put some of the rice at the bottom of another stewpan, then a layer of meat and onions on the rice, and so on alternately till the whole is put in. Cover the pan close, set it in a moderately heated oven for two hours and a half, and when it is to be served up turn the rice out carefully on a dish.
_Timbol of Rice._
PICK, wash, and parboil the rice; then strain it, put it into a stewpan with a little oiled butter and yolk of egg. Simmer it gently till tender; then fill an oval tin mould with the rice, press it down close, take the shape out of the mould, wash it lightly with a paste brush with yolk of egg, and set it in a quick oven. When it is a good colour cut a square piece out of the top, scoop out the inside, and fill the cavity with fricassee of chickens, or any thing else you please.
_Petit Patties of Chicken and Ham._
SHEET the pans with puff paste, and put a bit of crumb of bread the bigness of a dice in each; then cover them with more paste, trim round the pan, wash the tops of the paste with egg, and bake the patties of a light colour. When they are to be served up take out the bread, have ready the white meat of dressed fowl, lean ham, an eschallot chopped fine, a spoonful of consumé of veal, a little cream, flour, salt, cayenne, and lemon juice, a small quantity of each. Mix all the ingredients together over a fire, boil them for five minutes, fill the patties with it, and serve them up very hot.
_Patties of Lobsters or Oysters._
BAKE patties as before directed, fill them with lobsters or oysters chopped, add to them a little strong consumé of veal, a small quantity of flour, lemon juice, cayenne pepper, a bit of lemon peel, an eschallot chopped fine, an anchovie rubbed through a sieve, and mixed over a fire for five minutes.
N. B. The lobsters or oysters are to be half boiled before they are chopped.
_Forcemeat Patties._
SHEET the pans as for chicken patties, but instead of bits of bread fill them with a light forcemeat well-seasoned. Cover and bake them, and serve them up with a little cullis added to the forcemeat.
_Pulpton of Chicken, Rabbits, &c._
TAKE veal suet or beef marrow, chop it, put it into a stewpan over a fire till melted, and when lukewarm mix it to some flour with a little water into a paste. Knead it well, and rub fresh butter round the inside of a mould of any shape, and strew vermicelli upon the butter. Then sheet the mould over the vermicelli with the paste rolled of the thickness of half an inch, and within the paste put a layer of chicken, slices of sweetbread, mushrooms, artichoke bottoms, truffles, and morells; after which put a little light forcemeat round with a paste over, close it well, egg, and bake it gently. When to be served up, turn it out of the mould, make a little hole in the top, and put into it a good cullis.
N. B. Cut the chicken in pieces and blanch them; the sweetbreads, truffles, and morels to be blanched, and afterwards season with pepper and salt.
_Fishmeagre Pie._
BONE and cut into pieces a male carp; make it into a forcemeat with some of the roe, parsley, thyme, eschallots chopped very fine, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, pepper, salt, a little beaten spice, half a pint of cream, four eggs, and crumb of french bread. Afterwards take pieces of eel, salmon, and skate, pass them with sweet herbs, pepper, salt, lemon juice, and a bit of butter. When they are cold, put some of the forcemeat at the bottom of a deep dish, and mix with the fish some stewed mushrooms, button onions, truffles and morells blanched, and the roe cut into pieces, and put them into the dish with more forcemeat round the top; then cover with puff paste, ornament with leaves of paste, egg it, and bake it. When it is to be served up cut a small hole in the center of the top, and add a good cullis.
_Raised Ham Pie, with Directions for making a raised Crust._
TAKE water boiling hot, put a piece of fresh butter into it, and mix it with flour into a paste, and as it gets cold knead it several times, taking care it is of a good consistence but not too stiff, and then raise it into any shape you please. Have ready part of a ham boiled till half done, trim it to the shape of the crust, which must be big enough to put some light forcemeat at the bottom and round the ham when in the pie. Cover it with the same kind of paste, pinch round the top, and egg and ornament it. Just before it is set in the oven add half a pint of madeira wine, bake it gently for four hours, and when it is to be served up add some good cullis, but be careful it is not too salt.
_Raised Chicken Pie._
CUT chicken into pieces, and put them into a stewpan, either blanched or not, with a bit of fresh butter, lemon juice, pepper and salt, parsley, thyme, eschallots chopped very fine, and a little pounded mace. When the chicken are half done put them on a dish, and when cold raise the crust, put light forcemeat at the bottom, the chicken upon it, and more forcemeat round the top. Cover, bake gently, and when served up, cut off the lid, and add a ragout of sweetbreads, cocks combs, &c. &c.
N. B. Rabbits and veal may be done in the same manner; as also pigeons, but they are to be put into the crust whole.
_Flat Chicken Pie (or Tourte)._
CUT chicken into pieces, blanch them, and season with pepper and salt; then put a light forcemeat at the bottom of a deep dish, and upon it some of the chicken, some slices of throat sweetbreads seasoned, some stewed mushrooms, truffles and morells, and upon them the remainder of the chicken. Cover it with a puff paste, then egg and ornament the top with leaves of paste of the same kind, bake it of a nice colour, and when it is to be served up put into it a good cullis.
N. B. The chicken may be passed with sweet herbs, &c. and when cold put into the dish as above. Rabbits also may be done in the same manner.
_Pigeon Pie._
WASH the pigeons in cold water and wipe them dry; then put into a deep dish a rump steak cut into pieces, beat with a chopper, and seasoned with pepper and salt, and upon it the pigeons with the liver, &c. seasoned. Add also some yolk of hard eggs, cover it with puff paste, egg and ornament it with small leaves, bake it, and add some cullis.
_Raised Turkey Pie with a Tongue._
BONE a turkey, and have ready a boiled pickled tongue; pare the principal part, put it into the center of the turkey with some light forcemeat well-seasoned, and some slices of throat sweetbreads. Sew it up, and put it into boiling water for ten minutes. Then make a crust with raised paste big enough to receive the turkey, which, when cold, put in with bards of fat bacon upon it and forcemeat at the bottom of the crust; then cover and ornament it as a raised chicken pie, and bake it. When it is to be served up, take off the lid and the bards of bacon, glaize the breast lightly, and add a cullis or green truffle sauce.
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The Art of Cookery Made Easy and RefinedChapter II: Preface (2)
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