Chapter XII: Section IX: Emulsines

From soaps proper we now pass to those compounds used as substitutes for soap, which are classed together under one general title as above, for the reason that all cosmetiques herein embraced have the property of forming emulsions with water.

Chemically considered, they are an exceedingly interesting class of compounds, and are well worthy of study. Being prone to decomposition, as might be expected from their composition, they should be made only in small portions, or, at least, only in quantities to meet a ready sale.

While in stock they should be kept as cool as possible, and free from a damp atmosphere.

AMANDINE.

Fine almond oil, 7 lbs. Simple syrup,[E] 4 oz. White soft soap, or saponaceous cream, _i.e._ } Crême d'Amande, } 1 oz. Otto of almonds, 1 oz. " bergamot, 1 oz. " cloves, 1/2 oz.

Rub the syrup with the soft soap until the mixture is homogeneous, then rub in the oil by degrees; the perfume having been previously mixed with the oil.

In the manufacture of amandine (and olivine) the difficulty is to get in the quantity of oil indicated, without which it does not assume that transparent jelly appearance which good amandine should have. To attain this end, the oil is put into "a runner," that is, a tin or glass vessel, at the bottom of which is a small faucet and spigot, or tap. The oil being put into this vessel is allowed to run slowly into the mortar in which the amandine is being made, just as fast as the maker finds that he can incorporate it with the paste of soap and syrup; and so long as this takes place, the result will always have a jelly texture to the hand. If, however, the oil be put into the mortar quicker than the workman can blend it with the paste, then the paste becomes "oiled," and may be considered as "done for," unless, indeed, the whole process be gone through again, starting off with fresh syrup and soap, using up the greasy mass as if it were pure oil. This liability to "go off," increases as the amandine nears the finish; hence extra caution and plenty of "elbow grease" must be used during the addition of the last two pounds of oil. If the oil be not perfectly fresh, or if the temperature of the atmosphere be above the average of summer heat, it will be almost impossible to get the whole of the oil given in the formula into combination; when the mass becomes bright and of a crystalline lustre, it will be well to stop the further addition of oil to it.

This and similar compounds should be potted as quickly as made, and the lids of the pots banded either with strips of tin-foil or paper, to exclude air. When the amandine is filled into the jars, the top or face of it is marked or ornamented with a tool made to the size of half the diameter of the interior of the jar, in a similar way to a saw; a piece of lead or tortoise-shell, being serrated with an angular file, or piece of an "old saw," will do very well; place the marker on the amandine, and turn the jar gently round.

OLIVINE.

Gum acacia, in powder, 2 oz. Honey, 6 oz. Yolk of eggs, in number, 5. White soft soap, 3 oz. Olive oil, 2 lbs. Green oil, 1 oz. Otto of bergamot, 1 oz. " lemon, 1 oz. " cloves, 1/2 oz. " thyme and cassia, each, 1/2 drachm.

Rub the gum and honey together until incorporated, then add the soap and egg. Having mixed the green oil and perfumes with the olive oil, the mixture is to be placed in the runner, and the process followed exactly as indicated for amandine.

HONEY AND ALMOND PASTE. (_Pâte d'Amande au Miel_.)

Bitter almonds, blanched and ground, 1/2 lb. Honey, 1 lb. Yolk of eggs, in number, 8. Almond oil, 1 lb. Otto of bergamot, 1/4 oz. " cloves, 1/4 oz.

Rub the eggs and honey together first, then gradually add the oil, and finally the ground almonds and the perfume.

ALMOND PASTE.

Bitter almonds, blanched and ground, 1-1/2 lb. Rose-water, 1-1/2 pint. Alcohol (60 o.p.), 16 oz. Otto of bergamot, 3 oz.

Place the ground almonds and one pint of the rose-water into a stewpan; with a slow and steady heat, cook the almonds until their granular texture assumes a pasty form, constantly stirring the mixture during the whole time, otherwise the almonds quickly burn to the bottom of the pan, and impart to the whole an empyreumatic odor.

The large quantity of otto of almonds which is volatilized during the process, renders it essential that the operator should avoid the vapor as much as possible.

When the almonds are nearly cooked, the remaining water is to be added; finally the paste is put into a mortar, and well rubbed with the pestle; then the perfume and spirit are added. Before potting this paste, as well as honey paste, it should be passed through a medium fine sieve, to insure uniformity of texture, especially as almonds do not grind kindly.

Other pastes, such as _Pâte de Pistache_, _Pâte de Cocos_, _Pâte de Guimauve_, are prepared in so similar a manner to the above that it is unnecessary to say more about them here, than that they must not be confounded with preparations bearing a similar name made by confectioners.

ALMOND MEAL.

Ground almonds, 1 lb. Wheat flour, 1 lb. Orris-root powder, 1/4 lb. Otto of lemon, 1/2 oz. " almonds, 1/4 drachm.

PISTACHIO NUT MEAL, OR ANY OTHER NUT.

Pistachio nuts (decorticated as almonds } are bleached), } 1 lb. Orris powder, 1 lb. Otto of neroli, 1 drachm. " lemons, 1/2 oz.

Other meals, such as perfumed oatmeal, perfumed bran, &c., are occasionally in demand, and are prepared as the foregoing.

All the preceding preparations are used in the lavatory process as substitutes for soap, and to "render the skin pliant, soft, and fair!"

EMULSIN AU JASMIN.

Saponaceous cream, 1 oz. Simple syrup, 1-1/2 oz. Almond oil, 1 lb. Best jasmine oil, 1/2 lb.

EMULSIN A LE VIOLETTE.

Saponaceous cream, 1 oz. Syrup of violets, 1-1/2 oz. Best violet oil, 1-1/2 lb.

Emulsin of other odors can be prepared with tubereuse, rose, or cassie (acacia) oil (prepared by enfleurage or maceration).

For the methods of mixing the ingredients, see "Amandine," p. 195.

On account of the high price of the French oils, these preparations are expensive, but they are undoubtedly the most exquisite of cosmetiques.