Chapter III: Part 3

“It is hardly possible to determine precisely, the quantity of chalk or ashes necessary to be used. Less is required in the South than in the North, but at all events, more than is necessary will do no harm, since it remains upon the straining cloth with the other insoluble salts and the skim.

“If in order to preserve these syrups for a longer time, you were to carry on the boiling too long, you would find yourself mistaken; for the syrup would not fail to chrystalize at the bottom of the vessel, while the body would become thin: on the other hand, if the syrup were not sufficiently evaporated, it would soon ferment. A housekeeper who has made these syrups twice, will have learnt the degree of boiling which ought to be given to the syrup, better than can be taught her by rule.”

_Syrups and Ratafies._

With this same syrup, I have prepared preserves, confectionary, syrups and beverages, as well as liqueurs and ratafies of all the kinds of fruit I have spoken of.

2d. I made syrup of the same grape juice and by the same process, except that I boiled the latter but slightly, that is, one quarter less than the former; as I wished to satisfy myself whether it would be preserved by the application of heat to the water-bath, in the way before pointed out. Having prepared my syrup, I put it when cold, into three half bottles; one full, and the other a quarter empty. I corked and sealed the bottles, and let them remain in the water-bath only till it boiled, &c. I remarked no difference in the full and half full bottles, and all three were completely preserved.

3d. I took six pints of preserved grape juice, to which I added two pints of good old proof brandy, and also two pounds of grape syrup, which I had prepared. This preparation which I mixed well, I made use of to compose four kinds of liqueur, by means of infusions of apricot-kernels, mint, orange flower, badian, which I had prepared before: these liqueurs having been well strained, were found very good, and sufficiently sweet.

4th. I took two bottles of preserved grape juice, which I poured into two other fit bottles. I corked and tied these bottles, and left them standing upright ten days. During this interval, the liquor caused its cork to burst, like the best Champagne wine, and mantled in the same way.

5th. I repeated this last experiment in the same manner. At the end of twelve or fifteen days, observing no appearance of fermentation in the bottles, I uncorked them in order to let in the air, and I then put into them a table spoonful of preserved raspberry juice. Having re-corked and sealed them, I let them remain eight days longer upright. At the end of that time, both the white and the red juice (_le blanc et le rosé_) caused the cork to spring out. They mantled completely, and were very agreeable to the taste, particularly the red, perfumed with raspberry.

After these experiments made of the _Massy_ grape [in the department of _Seine and Oise_], it is more than probable that in the fine vineyards of the South, infinitely more precious results will be drawn from the making use of this method. Grape juice will be preserved there, in order, by congelation, to reduce it at will, to the consistence of syrup, after having taken away its acid for the sweet syrup; or if the juice be condensed over the fire, the quantity of boiling made use of for condensing the syrup, will, by the operation of heat in the water-bath in any preparatory process, be rendered immaterial for the preservation of the syrup for several years.[R]

[R] The original is more precise, and refers to an instrument made use of in France for ascertaining the density of liquors, an Aræometer, which, at least in its application to grape syrup, is unknown in this country: the words are, “_les degrés de cuisson de 25, 30, ou 33 à l’aréométre, devient indifférent pour conserver ces sirups_,” _&c. T._

By means of this process, which is easy to be put in practice, and of little expence in the execution, syrups may be obtained clear and white (even when produced from black grapes), and of a pure sweetness, free from a certain flavour of molasses and burnt sugar, from which it has not hitherto been found possible to exempt grape syrup, when boiled in the ordinary mode, sufficient for its preservation.

Thus this precious production, preserved in bottles and vessels of every size, may be transported to a great distance and in all seasons, coming from Bergerac, Mèze, and all the manufactories of the South, to improve the produce of our small vineyards, and make all classes of society share in the enjoyment of this useful resource.

§ LVIII.

_General Observations._

From this detail of experiments, it is obvious that this new method of preserving animal and vegetable substance, proceeds from the simple principle of applying heat in a due degree to the several substances, after having deprived them as much as possible of all contact with the external air.

It might on the first view of the subject be thought that a substance, either raw or previously acted upon by fire, and afterwards put into bottles, might, if a vacuum were made in those bottles and they were completely corked, be preserved equally well with the application of heat in the water-bath. This would be an error, for all the trials I have made have convinced me that the absolute privation of the contact of external air (the internal air being rendered of no effect by the action of heat), and the application of heat by means of the water-bath, are both indispensable to the complete preservation of alimentary substances.

My object is not like that of the Bourdeaux chymists, to disunite the component parts of the animal substance, and obtain the animal jelly in a separate state, as well as the animal fibre, free from its juice, and so made to resemble tanned leather. Neither is it my endeavour to furnish at a great expence, as in the preparation of portable soup, a tenacious paste or glue, better adapted to derange the stomach than to provide it with a salutary nourishment.

My problem is, to preserve all nutritive substances with all their peculiar and constituent qualities. My experiments prove that I have resolved this problem.[S]

[S] Some persons of enlightened understandings, but who have, perhaps, delivered themselves over to the spirit of system and prejudice, have declared themselves against my method, alleging a pretended impossibility. But is it then difficult on the principles of a sound, natural philosophy, to assign a reason for the preservation of alimentary substance by my process? May we not infer, that the application of _caloric_, or heat, to the water-bath, operates in producing a gentle fusion of the constituent fermenting principles, so as to destroy the predominating agency of fermentation? This agency is an essential condition of fermentation, at least of its taking place with a certain promptitude. Further, there is no fermentation without air; this being also excluded by my method, we have two assignable causes for its success; the theory of which appears to flow naturally from the means practically employed.

Indeed, if we refer to any of the methods made use of and any of the experiments and observations of ancient and modern times, upon the preservation of alimentary substances, with which we are acquainted, we shall find that _fire_ is every where the principal agent, either in the natural duration, or in the artificial preservation of vegetable and animal substances.

_Fabroni_ has proved that heat applied to grape juice or must, destroys the fermentation of this _vegeto-animal_, which is pre-eminently _leaven_. _Thenard_ has made like experiments on cherries, gooseberries, and other fruits. The experiments of the late _Vilaris_, and of Mr. _Cazalès_, learned chymists at Bourdeaux, who have dried meat by means of stoves, equally prove that the application of heat destroys the agents of putrefaction.

Drying, boiling, evaporating, as well as the caustic and savoury substances which are employed in the preservation of alimentary productions, all serve to shew that caloric in its various modes of application, produces the same effects.

It is to the solution of this problem that I have devoted my fortune and twenty years of labour and meditation. Happy that I have already been able to render service to my fellow citizens and humanity, I rely on the justice, generosity and intelligence of a wise government, which never fails to encourage useful discoveries. That government will perceive that the inventor of this method of preservation could not obtain from the invention itself an indemnification for his labour and expence. The chief importance of this process lies in its subservience to the wants of civil and military hospitals, and particularly of the Navy. It is in these departments of the public service that my process may be employed in a manner advantageous to the state, and it is from them that I may receive the just reward of my labours. I expect every thing from the beneficent views of the minister, and my expectations will not be disappointed.

§ LIX.

_Practical Remarks._

The bottles and other vessels of every kind fit for the preservation of alimentary substances will occasion but a very slight expence at one time. They may be always used again, if care be taken to rince them as soon as they are empty; good corks, string and wire are not expensive. As soon as the method is known, proper bottles and jars will be met with at the manufacturers, corks of every size and properly prepared for use will be furnished by the cork-cutters, as well as iron-wire fit for use.

It will be always adviseable to procure corks before bottles, and in that case no other bottles need be purchased than such as may have necks suited to the size of the corks, for I have been often unable to procure corks of such a size as I could wish.

The glass-houses of _la Garre_, _Sèves_, and _des Prémontrés_ near _Courcy-le-Château_, are already accustomed to the manufactory of corks and jars necessary for the preserving process. I am most satisfied with the latter, which has served me for the last four years.

Good corking depends only on a little practice. It will suffice to cork a dozen bottles with care and exactness, in order to familiarize a person with the method. Every day, wine and liquors are bottled and transported by land and water to the remotest places. Even glass vessels containing from forty to eighty _litres_ in measure have been sent to a great distance full of oil of vitriol and other liquids. It will be the same with animal and vegetable productions, preserved in glass bottles or jars, when sufficient care and attention shall be given them. This is the principal thing required. How many rich liquors and other substances would be better preserved which are either lost or spoiled for want of being well corked!

No one will doubt, after all the experiments I have detailed, that the adoption of this new method, which, as may be seen, unites the greatest economy to a perfection unlooked for till the present time, will secure the following advantages.

1. That of considerably diminishing the consumption of sugar, the produce of the cane, and of giving the greatest extension to the manufactories of grape syrup.

2. That of preserving for use in all countries and all seasons, a number of alimentary and medicinal productions, which being very abundant in some places at certain seasons, are therefore wasted, being considered as of no value; while the same substances, under other circumstances, being much wanted, become of double and even four-fold value; and sometimes cannot be procured at any price, such as butter and eggs.

3. That of procuring for civil and military hospitals, and even for the armies the most valuable assistance, the details of which would be superfluous here. But the great advantage of this method consists principally in its application to the service of the Navy. It will supply fresh and wholesome provisions for his majesty’s vessels on long voyages with a saving of more than fifty per cent. Mariners will in case of illness be furnished with broth, various and cooling beverages, vegetables and fruits; in a word, they will be able to partake of a number of alimentary and medicinal substances, which will alone be sufficient to prevent or cure the diseases contracted at Sea, more especially the worst of them all, the scurvy. These advantages eminently merit the public attention when we reflect that salted provisions, and, above all, their bad qualities, have caused the loss of more lives at Sea than shipwrecks and naval engagements.

4. Medicine will find in this method the means of relieving humanity, by the facility of meeting every where, and in all seasons, animal substances, and all kinds of vegetables, as well as their juices, preserved with all their natural qualities and virtues: by the same means it will obtain resources infinitely precious in the production of distant regions, preserved in their fresh state.

5. From this method will arise a new branch of industry, relative to the productions of France, by their circulation through the interior, and the exportation abroad, of the produce with which nature has blessed the different countries.

6. This method will facilitate the exportation of the wine of many vineyards: wine which can scarcely be kept a year, even when not removed from the spot, may hereafter be preserved many years though sent abroad.

Finally, this invention cannot fail to enlarge the domain of Chymistry, and become the common benefit of all countries, which will derive the most precious fruits from it.

So many advantages, and an infinity of others which the imagination of the reader will easily conceive, produced by one and the same cause, are a source of astonishment.

SOCIETY FOR THE ENCOURAGEMENT OF NATIONAL INDUSTRY.

_Paris, 7th April, 1809._

THE SECRETARY OF THE SOCIETY FOR THE ENCOURAGEMENT OF NATIONAL INDUSTRY, TO MR. APPERT, PROPRIETOR AT MASSY.

_Sir_,

_I have the pleasure to transmit to you a copy of the Report made to the_ Société d’Encouragement, _by Messrs. Guyton-Morveau, Parmentier, and Bouriat, on your preserved vegetable and animal substances. Nothing can be added to the judgment passed by the Committee upon your discovery. They announce, that it has not been in their power to make any experiments, either sufficiently exact, or continued for a sufficient length of time, to enable them to verify to what extent the substances prepared by you may be preserved; but what they have themselves observed, suffices to enable them to form an opinion to which they were previously disposed, by the numerous and decisive testimonies which attest your success._

_The Society are of opinion that they are rendering a service to the country and humanity, when they make known so useful a discovery with the eulogies which it merits. Their desire will be accomplished, should their suffrage determine the public to make use of your productions, and so contribute to confer upon you the just rewards of your labours._

_Accept, Sir, the assurance of the perfect respect with which I have the honour to salute you._

_MATH. MONTMORENCY_,
_Secretary, &c._

EXTRACT FROM THE PROCÈS-VERBAL OF THE SITTING OF THE COUNCIL OF
ADMINISTRATION, WEDNESDAY, 15TH MARCH, 1809.

_Report made by Mr. Bouriat, in the name of a Special Committee,
on Vegetable and Animal Substances, preserved by_ MR. APPERT.

The council referred to a committee, consisting of Messrs. Guyton-Morveau, Parmentier, and myself, the examination of vegetable and animal substances presented by Mr. Appert, and preserved by his process, for more than eight months.

These substances were,

1. _Pot-au-feu_ [a standing French dish of boiled meat, fowls, &c.]
2. _Consommé_, gravy.
3. Milk.
4. Whey.
5. Green Peas.
6. Small Windsor Beans.
7. Cherries.
8. Apricots.
9. Currant Juice.
10. Raspberries.

Each of these articles was contained in an earthen vessel hermetically sealed, the cork being fastened with iron wire and pitched. Proceeding methodically in our enquiry:

We found in the _pot-au-feu_ a jelly tolerably rich, with a piece of beef and two pieces of fowl in the middle. Warming the whole with care, to a suitable degree, the soup was found good, and the meat which was separated from it, very tender, and of an agreeable flavour.

The _consommé_ appeared to us to be excellent; and though prepared fifteen months before, there was scarcely any discernible difference between its then state, and what it would have been, if made fresh the same day.

The _milk_ was found to be of a yellowish colour, resembling that of colostrum or beestings, more thick, as well as sweeter and more savoury than the ordinary milk: a superiority it derives from the concentration it has undergone. It may be affirmed that milk of this kind, though prepared nine months before, may supply the place of the greater part of the cream sold at Paris. What however will appear more extraordinary is, that this same milk having been put into a pint bottle which was uncorked a month before, to take out a part of it, and re-corked afterwards with little care, was also preserved, having undergone scarcely any change. At first it appeared to have somewhat thickened, but a slight shaking was sufficient to bring back its ordinary liquidity. I present it here in the same bottle, that you may convince yourselves of a fact, which I should have had a difficulty to believe, if I had heard of it only, without having the evidence before me.

The _whey_ which we afterwards examined, presented some singular appearances not less astonishing. It had all the transparency of whey recently prepared. Its colour was deeper, it had a stronger taste, and it was somewhat thicker. It underwent a change also with less rapidity, having been exposed to the air at the end of a fortnight; for a bottle opened six weeks ago, occasionally shaken, and ill corked, did not begin to lose its transparency till the end of a fortnight. Its surface at the end of more than a month was covered with a somewhat thick mouldiness, which when carefully taken off, left the remainder still possessing the flavour of whey.

The _green peas_ and the _Windsor beans_, boiled with the attention enjoined by Mr. Appert, furnished two excellent dishes, which the remoteness of the usual season of such vegetables appeared to render still more finely flavoured and agreeable.

Whole _cherries_, and _apricots_ cut in quarters preserved a great part of the flavour they had when gathered. It is true Mr. Appert was obliged to gather them before they were quite ripe, lest they should lose too much of their figure in the glass jars in which they were preserved.

The _currant_ and _raspberry juice_ appeared to us to enjoy almost all their qualities. We found the aroma of the raspberry perfectly preserved, as well as the somewhat aromatic acid of the currant. Their colour only was a little faded.

Such were the results on our examining the substances prepared according to Mr. Appert’s process, more than eight months, and some of them a year, and fifteen months before; for instance, the whey. We could only receive his statement as to the time of the previous preparation of these articles, as they had been deposited but two months with the Society; but even this shorter period is sufficient to give us a favourable opinion of the author’s process. We are the more justified in relying on Mr. Appert’s declarations, as persons highly worthy of credit, have by their own experiments, convinced themselves that similar substances may be preserved for more than a year. Mr. Appert forwarded to the Council mere specimens of the articles I have enumerated; but he prepares a still greater variety of alimentary substances. He did not communicate his process to us.

_Observations._

The art of better preserving vegetables and animal substances in the state in which nature produces them, has been to a considerable degree the object both of pharmacy and chymistry. To attain that end various means have been employed. Desiccation, ardent spirits, acids and oils, saccharine and saline substances, &c. have been made use of; but it must be confessed that these means cause many productions to lose a part of their properties, or otherwise modifies them, so that their aroma and flavour are no longer to be recognized. From this point of view, the process of Mr. Appert appears to us preferable, if without having recourse to desiccation he adds no extraneous substance to that he wishes to preserve. There is every reason to believe that his method is by so much the better, as the substances on which he operates are more capable of sustaining so high a temperature without a sensible change.

Several persons of acknowledged merit, have by desire of the prefects in different Seaports, examined Mr. Appert’s preparations. It is only necessary to read the reports made by these well-informed persons, in order to be convinced of the excellence of the author’s process.

At Brest, for instance, on the 14th of April 1807, the committee named by the Maritime Prefect express themselves as follows:

“It is demonstrated by every thing just said, that all the alimentary substances, in number eighteen, embarked in the _Stationnaire_, December 12, 1806, and disembarked April 13, 1807, and which were examined by a committee for that especial purpose, under the presidency of a commissary of marine belonging to the hospitals, underwent no change while they were on board, and that they were in the same state at the several periods of the embarkation and disembarkation.

“It may be added that Mr. Appert’s process for the preservation of the articles examined, has been followed by all the success he had promised himself; and that with improvement, which he considers as very easy, and finding means to diminish the number of vessels employed, these provisions would offer great advantages on board his majesty’s and other vessels.”

The Committee nominated at Bourdeaux by the Prefect of the Department, assert, positively:

“The detail which we have just given, on the objects prepared by Mr. Appert, will point out to you that they were in a state of perfect preservation; that the means made use of do not depend on the addition of extraneous substances, and that these means are founded on a process invented or improved by Mr. Appert, which do not destroy the perfume or flavour of the subjects submitted to their influence.”

Rear-Admiral Allemand wrote a letter to Mr. Appert, of which I subjoin a copy.

“I communicated your letter, Sir, to the Captains, under my orders, and they tasted the day before yesterday the vegetables I purchased of you fourteen months ago, one bottle of which my _maître-d’hôtel_ had by accident left in the store-room. As green peas and beans are just beginning to be gathered, the officers actually believed your preserved vegetables to be fresh, so well had you succeeded; they wish to purchase a large quantity of them, as well as soup, fruit, and meat in bottles. I shall also take a considerable quantity for myself at the end of the season.

“I am so well persuaded, Sir, of the infinite advantage which would attend the providing a quantity of articles for the use of the sick on board, that if his Excellency, the Minister of the Marine and Colonies, should do me the honour to ask for my opinion, I shall not hesitate to confirm this my opinion, as well for the sake of the government and of the sick, as of yourself. I shall take the earliest opportunity to speak with him on the subject. Accept the assurance of my high consideration.

“On board the Imperial Ship _le Majestueux_, at anchor off the _Ile d’Aix_.

(Signed) “ALLEMAND.”
“_7th March, 1807._”

_Copy of a Letter of Vice-Admiral Martin, Maritime Prefect, to Mr. Appert, at Brest._

“I have received, Sir, your letter of the 27th of last April. According to your desire, I have addressed to his Excellency, the Minister of the Marine and Colonies, a report of the examination of a variety of provisions prepared according to your process.

“I shall neglect no opportunity of making known a discovery which appears to be as useful to the State as it is interesting to seamen. I have the honour to salute you.

“The vice admiral, maritime-prefect,

(Signed) “MARTIN.”
“_Rochefort, 22d May, 1807._”

It is apparent from these reports, which appear to be almost the same, though made in towns remote from each other, at different periods and by different persons, that the process of Mr. Appert is as certain as it is useful. It affords the means of enjoying throughout the empire, during the whole year, and with great convenience, the productions which belong alone to a part of it, without fearing that they may have undergone any change by their having been transported to a great distance, or from the remoteness of the season of their growth. Merely under this point of view, the advantage appears to be great: and it has not escaped the notice of the poets and amiable writers, who, to amuse themselves, sing the art of cookery. Mr. Appert has repeatedly received from them the most flattering and highly deserved praises.[T]

[T] These _poëtes et littérateurs amiables qui chantent pour s’amuser_, are _M. de Berchoux_, author of the charming poem _la Gastronomie_, and the authors of the _Almanac des Gourmands_, an annual publication written with infinite wit and humour, and which enjoys a higher reputation, and more extensive popularity, than any other work of taste published in France, since the revolution. For an account of both these productions the reader is referred to the LITERARY PANORAMA, Vol. VII. pp. 661, and 719. The Almanac of Gluttons, if it be not the standard of poetic genius in _imperial_ France, is at least an indication of the direction which talent is now taking: a direction, which the laws and literary police of the Napoleon government will not fail effectually to maintain. T.

The process of this manufacturer is not less valuable in the sparing of sugar in the use of fruit; for without the aid of that article, it preserves the juice till the moment of its consumption, when only a small portion needs to be added to the juice; double the quantity would have been necessary to _preserve_ the same fruit. It may be further added that the flavour and aroma of substances are better preserved by Mr. Appert’s process, than by the decoctions usually made use of in order to preserve them with sugar. This will be considered as a very great advantage, when we reflect how prodigious a quantity of this colonial produce is every year employed to preserve the different kinds of fruit and their juices. The establishment of Mr. Appert has not perhaps been duly appreciated by rich capitalists, who might have given it that desirable extension which it will only gradually receive, if the author is abandoned to his own resources.

The success he has already met with, increases his zeal and makes him carry his views further. He promises to transmit, unchanged, the most agreeable productions of our soil beyond the Line. He purposes to multiply the enjoyments of the Indian, the Mexican, and the African, as well as of the Laplander, and to transport into France from remote regions, an infinity of substances which we should desire to receive in their natural state.

The experiments already made on board several vessels, prove that the sick among a crew will be well satisfied with Mr. Appert’s preparations, which furnish them with the means of procuring, when necessary, meat and broth of a good quality, milk, acid fruits, and even anti-scorbutic juices; for Mr. Appert assures us he is able to preserve these also.

With respect to the embarkation of meat necessary for a whole crew on a long voyage, a slight difficulty seems to lie in the requisite multiplicity of bottles. But Mr. Appert will, without doubt, find means to obviate this inconvenience, by the choice of vessels less fragile and of a larger size.

Our opinion of the substances preserved by Mr. Appert, and transmitted to our examination, is, that they were all of a good quality, that they may be made use of without any inconvenience; and that the Society owes great praise to the author for having so far advanced the art of preserving vegetable and animal substances. We are happy to render this homage to the zeal and disinterestedness with which he has laboured to attain his end.

When the relations of commerce shall be rendered more easy, Mr. Appert will require nothing beyond his own talents and perseverance, to establish a branch of commerce as useful to himself as to his country; but at the present moment his fellow citizens cannot better recompense his labours, than by employing the produce of his manufactures.

_Note._--Mr. Appert desires to preserve his connection with the Society, in order to inform them of the result of the fresh exertions to which he is about to devote himself, on the invitation of your committee.

* * * * *

The council concurring in opinion with its committee, adopts the present report and its conclusions, and resolves that it shall be inserted in the minutes of the Society.

(Signed) GUYTON-MORVEAU,
PARMENTIER,
BOURIAT.

(A true copy.)

MATH. MONTMORENCY, Secretary.

FINIS.

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Transcriber's notes:

In the text version, italics are represented by _underscores_.

Missing or incorrect punctuation has been repaired, but old and unusual spellings have been left.

These items were noted in proofing and in some cases, corrections have been made:--

Tomates
Left as printed, this has been used all through book.

Explanation of Plate 6. flat pincers and scissars
Left as printed.

p. xi. unexpensive process
Left as printed.

p. 2. pulpy matter (the porenchyma)
This may be a typo for parenchyma but has been left as printed.

p. 20. The form of the Champage bottle
Changed to Champagne.

p. 31. bottle boot
This is hyphenated everywhere else and has been changed.

p. 47. three fourths
This is hyphenated everywhere else and has been changed.

p. 57. windsor beans
Both windsor beans and windsor-beans are used, left as printed.

p. 60. I clean the asparagus is if
is if changed to as if.

p. 68. ingred ent
Changed to ingredient.

p. 86. green-gages
Two words in title, but hyphenated everywhere else, left as
printed.

p. 95 three fourths
Changed to three-fourths.

p. 110. 2.
1st paragragh not labelled as such, subsequent paragraphs are
marked 3d and 4th. Left as printed.

p. 133. praccally
Changed to practically.

p. 139. That of procuring civil
Changed to procuring for civil.