Chapter I: Preface

Forefront in this book, because forefront in the author's heart and desire, must stand a plea for the restoration to the greatest mountain in North America of its immemorial native name. If there be any prestige or authority in such matter from the accomplishment of a first complete ascent, "if there be any virtue, if there be any praise," the author values it chiefly as it may give weight to this plea.

It is now little more than seventeen years ago that a prospector penetrated from the south into the neighborhood of this mountain, guessed its height with remarkable accuracy at twenty thousand feet, and, ignorant of any name that it already bore, placed upon it the name of the Republican candidate for President of the United States at the approaching election--William McKinley. No voice was raised in protest, for the Alaskan Indian is inarticulate and such white men as knew the old name were absorbed in the search for gold. Some years later an officer of the United States army, upon a reconnoissance survey into the land, passed around the companion peak, and, alike ignorant or careless of any native name, put upon it the name of an Ohio politician, at that time prominent in the councils of the nation, Joseph Foraker. So there they stand upon the maps, side by side, the two greatest peaks of the Alaskan range, "Mount McKinley" and "Mount Foraker." And there they should stand no longer, since, if there be right and reason in these matters, they should not have been placed there at all.

To the relatively large Indian population of those wide regions of the interior of Alaska from which the mountains are visible they have always borne Indian names. The natives of the middle Yukon, of the lower three hundred miles of the Tanana and its tributaries, of the upper Kuskokwim have always called these mountains "Denali" (Den-ah'li) and "Denali's Wife"--either precisely as here written, or with a dialectical difference in pronunciation so slight as to be negligible.

It is true that the little handful of natives on the Sushitna River, who never approach nearer than a hundred miles to the mountain, have another name for it. They call it _Traléika_, which, in their wholly different language, has the same signification. It is probably true of every great mountain that it bears diverse native names as one tribe or another, on this side or on that of its mighty bulk, speaks of it. But the area in which, and the people by whom, this mountain is known as Denali, preponderate so greatly as to leave no question which native name it should bear. The bold front of the mountain is so placed on the returning curve of the Alaskan range that from the interior its snows are visible far and wide, over many thousands of square miles; and the Indians of the Tanana and of the Yukon, as well as of the Kuskokwim, hunt the caribou well up on its foot-hills. Its southern slopes are stern and forbidding through depth of snow and violence of glacial stream, and are devoid of game; its slopes toward the interior of the country are mild and amene, with light snowfall and game in abundance.

Should the reader ever be privileged, as the author was a few years ago, to stand on the frozen surface of Lake Minchúmina and see these mountains revealed as the clouds of a passing snow-storm swept away, he would be overwhelmed by the majesty of the scene and at the same time deeply moved with the appropriateness of the simple native names; for simplicity is always a quality of true majesty. Perhaps nowhere else in the world is so abrupt and great an uplift from so low a base. The marshes and forests of the upper Kuskokwim, from which these mountains rise, cannot be more than one thousand five hundred feet above the sea. The rough approximation by the author's aneroid in the journey from the Tanana to the Kuskokwim would indicate a still lower level--would make this wide plain little more than one thousand feet high. And they rise sheer, the tremendous cliffs of them apparently unbroken, soaring superbly to more than twenty thousand and seventeen thousand feet respectively: Denali, "the great one," and Denali's Wife. And the little peaks in between the natives call the "children." It was on that occasion, standing spellbound at the sublimity of the scene, that the author resolved that if it were in his power he would restore these ancient mountains to the ancient people among whom they rear their heads. Savages they are, if the reader please, since "savage" means simply a forest dweller, and the author is glad himself to be a savage a great part of every year, but yet, as savages, entitled to name their own rivers, their own lakes, their own mountains. After all, these terms--"savage," "heathen," "pagan"--mean, alike, simply "country people," and point to some old-time superciliousness of the city-bred, now confined, one hopes, to such localities as Whitechapel and the Bowery.

There is, to the author's mind, a certain ruthless arrogance that grows more offensive to him as the years pass by, in the temper that comes to a "new" land and contemptuously ignores the native names of conspicuous natural objects, almost always appropriate and significant, and overlays them with names that are, commonly, neither the one nor the other. The learned societies of the world, the geographical societies, the ethnological societies, have set their faces against this practice these many years past, and to them the writer confidently appeals.

* * * * *

This preface must bear a grateful acknowledgment to the most distinguished of Alaskans--the man who knows more of Alaska than any other human being--Peter Trimble Rowe, seventeen years bishop of that immense territory, for the "cordial assent" which he gave to the proposed expedition and the leave of absence which rendered it possible--one more in a long list of kindnesses which have rendered happy an association of nearly ten years. Nor can better place be found for a tribute of gratitude to those who were of the little party: to Mr. Harry P. Karstens, strong, competent, and resourceful, the real leader of the expedition in the face of difficulty and danger; to Mr. Robert G. Tatum, who took his share, and more than his share, of all toil and hardship and was a most valuable colleague; to Walter Harper, Indian-bred until his sixteenth year, and up to that time trained in not much else than Henry of Navarre's training, "to shoot straight, to speak the truth; to do with little food and less sleep" (though equal to an abundance of both on occasion), who joyed in the heights as a mountain-sheep or a chamois, and whose sturdy limbs and broad shoulders were never weary or unwilling--to all of these there is heartfelt affection and deep obligation. Nor must Johnny be forgotten, the Indian boy who faithfully kept the base camp during a long vigil, and killed game to feed the dogs, and denied himself, unasked, that others might have pleasure, as the story will tell. And the name of Esaias, the Indian boy who accompanied us to the base camp, and then returned with the superfluous dogs, must be mentioned, with commendation for fidelity and thanks for service. Acknowledgment is also made to many friends and colleagues at the mission stations in the interior, who knew of the purpose and furthered it greatly and held their tongues so that no premature screaming bruit of it got into the Alaskan newspapers: to the Rev. C. E. Betticher, Jr., particularly and most warmly.

The author would add, perhaps quite unnecessarily, yet lest any should mistake, a final personal note. He is no professed explorer or climber or "scientist," but a missionary, and of these matters an amateur only. The vivid recollection of a back bent down with burdens and lungs at the limit of their function makes him hesitate to describe this enterprise as recreation. It was the most laborious undertaking with which he was ever connected; yet it was done for the pleasure of doing it, and the pleasure far outweighed the pain. But he is concerned much more with men than mountains, and would say, since "out of the fullness of the heart the mouth speaketh," that his especial and growing concern, these ten years past, is with the native people of Alaska, a gentle and kindly race, now threatened with a wanton and senseless extermination, and sadly in need of generous champions if that threat is to be averted.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. PREPARATION AND APPROACH 3

II. THE MULDROW GLACIER 25

III. THE NORTHEAST RIDGE 53

IV. THE GRAND BASIN 80

V. THE ULTIMATE HEIGHT 92

VI. THE RETURN 117

VII. THE HEIGHT OF DENALI, WITH A DISCUSSION OF THE
READINGS ON THE SUMMIT AND DURING THE ASCENT 141

VIII. EXPLORATIONS OF THE DENALI REGION AND PREVIOUS
ATTEMPTS AT ITS ASCENT 157

IX. THE NAMES PLACED UPON THE MOUNTAIN BY THE AUTHOR 180

ILLUSTRATIONS

Ice fall of nearly four thousand feet by which the
upper or Harper Glacier discharges into the lower
or Muldrow Glacier (photogravure) _Frontispiece_

FACING
PAGE

The author and Mr. H. P. Karstens 4

Tatum, Esaias, Karstens, Johnny, and Walter, at the
Clearwater Camp 8

Striking across from the Tanana to the Kantishna 12

One of the abandoned mining towns in the Kantishna 14

Denali from the McKinley fork of the Kantishna River 16

Entering the range by Cache Creek 18

The base camp at about 4,000 feet on Cache Creek 20

Some heads of game killed at the base camp 22

The Muldrow Glacier. Karstens in the foreground 26

Ascension Day, 1913 30

Bridging a crevasse on the Muldrow Glacier 32

Hard work for dogs as well as men on the Muldrow Glacier 34

The Northeast Ridge shattered by the earthquake in July, 1912 48

Cutting a staircase three miles long in the ice of the
shattered ridge 52

The shattered Northeast Ridge 56

Camp at 13,000 feet on Northeast Ridge 60

A dangerous passage 64

The Upper Basin reached at last. Our camp at the
Parker Pass at 15,000 feet 72

Above all the range except Denali and Denali's Wife 76

Traverse under the cliffs of the Northeast Ridge to enter
the Grand Basin 82

First camp in the Grand Basin--16,000 feet, looking up 84

Second camp in the Grand Basin--looking down, 16,500
feet 86

Third camp in the Grand Basin--17,000 feet, showing the
shattering of the glacier walls by the earthquake 88

The North Peak, 20,000 feet high 90

The South Peak from about 18,000 feet 94

The climbing-irons 98

Denali's Wife from the summit of Denali (photogravure) 102

Robert Tatum raising the Stars and Stripes on the highest
point in North America 104

The saying of the Te Deum 106

Beginning the descent of the ridge; looking down 4,000
feet upon the Muldrow Glacier 122

Johnny Fred, who kept the base camp and fed the dogs
and would not touch the sugar 128

"Muk," the author's pet malamute 136

Approaching the range 164

Map showing route of the Stuck-Karstens expedition
to the summit of Mt. Denali (Mt. McKinley) _End of volume_

THE ASCENT OF DENALI