Chapter II: Introduction: By SIR FRANCIS 3

YOUNGHUSBAND, K.C.S.I., K.C.I.E.

THE NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION
By BRIGADIER-GENERAL HON. C. G. BRUCE, C.B., M.V.O.

CHAP.
I TO THE BASE CAMP 17
II THE ASSAULT ON THE MOUNTAIN 50
III THE RETURN BY KHARTA 77

THE FIRST ATTEMPT
By GEORGE H. LEIGH-MALLORY

IV THE PROBLEM 121
V THE HIGHEST CAMP 150
VI THE HIGHEST POINT 183

THE ATTEMPT WITH OXYGEN
By CAPTAIN GEORGE FINCH

VII THE SECOND ATTEMPT 227
VIII CONCLUSIONS 251
IX NOTES ON EQUIPMENT 262

THE THIRD ATTEMPT
By GEORGE H. LEIGH-MALLORY

X THE THIRD ATTEMPT 273
XI CONCLUSIONS 287

NOTES
By T. HOWARD SOMERVELL

XII ACCLIMATISATION AT HIGH ALTITUDES 299
XIII COLOUR IN TIBET 309
XIV TIBETAN CULTURE 313

NATURAL HISTORY
By DR. T. G. LONGSTAFF, M.D.

XV NATURAL HISTORY 321
INDEX 338

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

The Second Climbing Party descending Frontispiece
from their Record Climb

PAGE

Frozen Waterfall, Chumbi Valley 28

Nuns at Tatsang 34

Rongbuk Monastery and Mount Everest 44

The Expedition at Base Camp 46

View at Base Camp 50

Camp II at Sunset 54

Mount Everest from Camp III 60

Watching the Dancers, Rongbuk Monastery 72

The Chief Lama, Rongbuk Monastery 78

Tibetan Dancing Woman 84

Tibetan Dancing Man 84

Old Tibetan Woman and Child 90

Fording the Bhong Chu 98

Panorama at Shekar Dzong 106

In Khamba Dzong 110

Lingga and the Lhonak Mountains 114

Base Camp and Mount Everest in Evening 124
Light

Serac, East Rongbuk Glacier 140

View from Ice Cavern 146

Seracs, East Rongbuk Glacier, above Camp 150
II

Party ascending the Chang La 156

Peak, 23,180 feet (Kellas’ dark rock 162
peak), from the Rongbuk Glacier, above
Camp II

Mallory and Norton approaching their 204
Highest Point, 26,985 feet

Summit of Mount Everest from the Highest 210
Point of the First Climb, 26,985 feet,
May 21, 1922

The First Climbing Party 218

Frost-bitten Climber being helped down 222
to Camp II

Mount Everest from Base Camp 232

East Rongbuk Glacier, near Camp II 236

Oxygen Apparatus 242

Captain Noel kinematographing the Ascent 242
of Mount Everest from the Chang La

The British Members of the Second 248
Climbing Party

Chang La and North-east Shoulder of 290
Mount Everest

Religious Banners in Shekar Monastery 314

Romoo, the Lepcha Collector who assisted 322
Dr. Longstaff and Major Norton

Karma Paul, the Expedition’s Interpreter 322

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MAPS

Sketch Map of Mount Everest and the 366
Rongbuk Glaciers

The Route of the Mount Everest 367
Expedition, 1922

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INTRODUCTION

By
SIR FRANCIS YOUNGHUSBAND,
K.C.S.I., K.C.I.E.

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