Chapter I: Front Matter

THE BALKAN TRAIL

‘NOBODY BLUNDERED.’ [_See page 110._]

THE BALKAN TRAIL

BY
FREDERICK MOORE

_WITH 62 ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP_

LONDON
SMITH, ELDER, & CO., 15 WATERLOO PLACE
1906

[All rights reserved]

TO MY FRIEND

I. N. F.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER PAGE

I. THE BULGARIAN BORDER 1

II. THE ROAD TO RILO 15

III. THE TRAIL OF THE MISSIONARIES 34

IV. SOFIA AND THE BULGARIANS 49

V. CONSTANTINOPLE AND THE TURKS 68

VI. SALONICA AND THE JEWS 82

VII. THE DYNAMITERS 105

VIII. MONASTIR AND THE GREEKS 134

IX. ACROSS COUNTRY 159

X. USKUB AND THE SERBS 183

XI. METROVITZA AND THE ALBANIANS 212

XII. THE LONG TRAIL 228

XIII. THE TRAIL OF THE INSURGENT 246

XIV. ON THE TRACK OF THE TURK 262

XV. THE LAST TRAIL 277

ILLUSTRATIONS

‘NOBODY BLUNDERED’ _Frontispiece_
_From a drawing by Gilbert Holiday_

COUNTING ANIMALS AVAILABLE FOR MILITARY SERVICE _To face p._ 6

ON A FRONTIER BRIDGE ” 10

THE AMAZON }
} ” 12
THE MASCOT }

THE ROAD TO RILO ” 20

A BULGARIAN BLOCKHOUSE }
} ” 24
THE BRIDGE OVER THE STRUMA: TURK AND BULGAR }

RILO MONASTERY: GRACE BEFORE GRUB ” 28

FATHER COOK AND THE BRIGAND ” 32

BULGARIAN PEASANTS, SAMAKOV ” 36

BULGARIAN INFANTRY ” 48

THE CATHEDRAL, SOFIA }
} ” 54
THE BRITISH AGENCY, SOFIA: A DEMONSTRATION }

A VIEW OF SOFIA, VITOSH IN THE BACKGROUND ” 58

ON THE MARKET PLACE, SOFIA ” 60

DOGS OCCUPY THE PAVEMENT; PEOPLE WALK IN THE STREETS }
} ” 70
THE TURKISH BARBERSHOP }

CONSTANTINOPLE: MOSQUE OF YÉNI-DJAMI ON THE BOSPHORUS ” 74

A HAMMAL AND A LOAD OF PETROLEUM TINS ” 78

THE WALL AND BEYOND, SALONICA ” 86

THE ANCIENT ARCH OF CONSTANTINE, SALONICA ” 90

THE TURKISH BUTCHER ” 92

JEWS }
} ” 96
JEWISH WOMEN }

ASIATIC SOLDIERS: ‘REDIFS’ }
} ” 106
WAITING FOR DYNAMITERS, SALONICA }

THE WRECK OF THE OTTOMAN BANK }
} ” 116
ENTERING THE DYNAMITERS’ DEN }

EXILES, SHIPPED WEEKLY FROM SALONICA ” 126

ON A MACEDONIAN LAKE ” 136

A GREEK ” 142

A BIT OF OLD MONASTIR ” 148

ORTHODOX PRIESTS ” 154

CAPTIVES ALBANIANS, BULGARIANS ” 166

TURKISH WEDDING FESTIVITIES ” 168

A GYPSY MINSTREL }
} ” 170
A TURKISH TRUMPETER }

OUR ESCORT FORDING A STREAM ” 172

‘8 CHEVAUX OU 48 HOMMES’: ALBANIAN RECRUITS ” 184

GRAVES OF DEAD COMMITTAJIS }
} ” 194
THE OLD TURKISH SEXTON WHO LIVED IN A GRAVE }

THE HORSE MARKET }
} ” 198
SWEARING TO A BARGAIN }

ALBANIAN WOMEN ” 210

THE ALBANIAN AND HIS KULER }
} ” 220
ALBANIAN }

A GROUP OF ALBANIANS ” 222

WAYFARERS AT A ROADSIDE FOUNTAIN: TURKS ” 228

IN A MOUNTAIN VILLAGE: BULGARIAN PEASANTS DANCING THE HORO ” 236

THE TURKISH QUARTER: DJUMA-BALA ” 242

RUINS OF KREMEN ” 244

A TURKISH BAND LEAVING MONASTIR }
} ” 252
BASHI-BAZOUKS }

TURKS ON THE MARCH ” 256

TURKISH TROOPS ” 260

VLACHS ” 266

‘HELL HOLE,’ KRUSHEVO ” 274

THE MACEDONIAN ” 280

COMMITTAJIS OFF DUTY ” 292

MAP OF THE BALKANS ” 296

THE BALKAN TRAIL